THE BEST LONG LENS TECHNIQUE

[@simon_dentremont]

What's your favorite long lens and what do you photograph with it? I'd love to know to help me make more relevant videos!

[@Warrior_Resisting_Colonialism]

I'm shooting with an old school, vintage manual focus film lens. Nikon 300mm f/4.5 ED AI-s.

[@abrahamtomahawk]

I shoot wilflife with my old Canon 100-400mm L lens. When I got it I was also able to fine-tune the focus by calibrating the lens to my 7d when I bought them (about 10 years ago). Great video.

[@TheWildlifeGallery388]

I recently purchased the EF 600mm F4 - V2 Lens and adapted it to my R5 - I do mainly Wildlife - But occasionally I'll throw a landscape in when I see something that draws my attention - I'm amazed at the sharpness of this lens over my 100-400 V3 - EF as well

[@ejorbe]

I shoot with a Nikon 70-200 and 200-500 on a D7200. I also use at times the 2x teleconverter. The subject range from landscape/cityscape to wildlife, automotive/motorcycle races and my worst section of photography the moon or Venus or anything astrophotography where I want, say the moon, filling the frame.

[@davaireport2479]

My favorite and only one is xf100-400 paired with my Fuji x-t2. Thanks for the video and tips!

[@michaelkissane6138]

Hi Simon, Great video! A tip I learned from my late Dad who was an amateur photographer and shot only low ASA slide film. When stationed as an Army doctor in France in the mid-50´s, he liked to shoot stained glass shots, but was considerate enough to not bring a tripod into churches and chapels. I saw him take pictures upside down, with the camera braced on his forehead and asked about it. He said that instead of risking a camera pivoting on his nose, he held it tightly against his forehead, upside down. The forehead, besides being flat, has less softness than the nose and one can concentrate on holding your head steady, like with a dentist's x-ray. Also, using the riflery trick of keeping tension on a strap, is good advice for free-handing. Another tip from Army vet is to relax and breathe easy. He got sharp waterfall pictures at 1/15 sec. Being stunned, I asked what he did in the Army and he said he was a 'marksman'. So there's that, too.

[@philipkoenig9197]

Brilliant as always! Your videos are my favorite due to your clear, helpful content plus your fast no-nonsense pace of presentation along with high production quality. I am a hobbyist shooting for a long time and I always pick up some great tips from you even when I do not expect to. Well done, Simon - thank you!

[@simon_dentremont]

Thanks very much!

[@cathco9]

100% I totally agree with your comment.

[@ralphguppy]

I’ll add one more tip that I learned this morning, shooting surfers on Kauai. Unless you have a $$$$$$$$ premium filter take it off the front of the lens. I was shooting my R6 with a 2X tele on the awesome RF 100-500 and just couldn’t get sharp shots. So….I took off my CPL, and beheld the amazing shots with water dripping just as I expected! Not saying that filters are bad as it was a Luzid filter which did give me awesome landscape shots of the Waimea canyon and waterfalls. Just seems that long lens likely exacerbate cheap glass!

[@stevenrubin820]

I hear you on removing filters. This has been a controversy for some time but I’ve just decided to bite the bullet and get better UV filters to protect that front element and I’m glad I did. I was just getting into a hotel in Switzerland with my wife and pulled out my Canon 70-200L F2.8 and took off the lens cap and saw a huge crack. My wife saw that I was concerned, and then saw me unscrew the filter (luckily I just happen to have another one with me) and toss it in the trash and mutter “there goes $80”…. She said you just threw away $80??? I told her that was better than throwing away $2k+ for a new lens. 😂

[@ralphguppy]

I do still have filters on for travel but when I want ultimate fidelity, especially with a long lens it comes off!

[@JanKeiferJaim]

​@@stevenrubin820what uv filter are you using mate?

[@stevenrubin820]

@@JanKeiferJaim pro level b&w

[@CreativeIsolation]

You’ve got YT figured Simon. Short intro explains the plan, tease a “bonus,” invite us to subscribe in a way that’s not pushy but reminds us to do it upfront, samples of your work that show you know what you’re talking about, even music that sets the tone. Of course, your content beyond that continues in its refined quality. I’ve got ideas about what you might do differently, but honestly, what the hell do I know? You seem to have YT on lock.

[@simon_dentremont]

Haha thanks. None of us are as smart as all of us…suggest away!

[@CreativeIsolation]

@@simon_dentremont I’m curious what your retention is once you cut away to photos and music. If it stays constant, don’t change anything. If you see a drop, I might recommend showing photos during the intro (which you already do sometimes), then maybe include music underscoring your intro. You could still cut away at the musical climax, but then it would be a lot shorter. Of course, if you’re not losing viewers at that moment, don’t change anything. I feel like the “title screen” is a hold over from legacy KZbin, but it seems to have lost favor over the last few years. Just a thought. Seriously though, really excellent stuff. I’m not even a nature photographer, just learning how to shoot photos properly for the first time. Some for my job (do some social media marketing etc) and some for family photos. I’d also like to learn how to do astrophotography. I have a telescope and will probably eventually get a mount for my Sony. Anyway, learned more from you than all the “hotshots” out there. They’re more focused on shooting a “cool” video than informing their audience. It’s a fine strategy, but not for me. I want to learn stuff! Plus, your photos are a cut above. Thank you!

[@debrapeasley2606]

I love your intro, Simon. Seeing not only your excellent shots but bits of video is terrific- I don't get to see many different species of birds and I love seeing the eagle flying in. You follow this wonderful intro with great advice. I tried your bonus tip about the forehead- it works! I was surprised at how sharp the photos were. Thanks.

[@simon_dentremont]

@@CreativeIsolation my viewership does dip a bit during the music, but picks up after. 75pct of my views are still non-subscribers, so I’m ok if a few people skip it. When I’m more established, I’ll cut it down.

[@CreativeIsolation]

@@simon_dentremont sounds like you’re on it. Not surprised one bit. You’re a pro!

[@JaghataiK]

I consider taking my kid's photos as wildlife photography. I've learned more from Simon in this regard than any portrait photographer.

[@itsKegger]

I'm just getting into photography and found your channel and now I've nearly watched all your videos and feel like a professional now! I've taken tons and tons of notes, no one is a better teacher than you! Your videos and tips are perfect, and I love how you don't gatekeep anything so thank you very much!!

[@peter9962]

Back when I was in school, I belonged to the local city police gun club, shooting 22 targets once a week, and also took a hunter safety course at our local Fish and Game Assoc. At both places, we were given shooting tips and one of the tips was to take a breath, release part way, hold it, then squeeze the trigger. The instructor also told us to use the same technique with our cameras. I am 70 now, and have been using this technique ever since. I have been doing it for so long, I don't even think about it anymore. It is just a habit, like your other techniques for sharpness. Thanks Simon. I enjoy your videos.

[@simon_dentremont]

I used that in archery and at the firing range too!

[@r2hildur]

I'm staying for the bonus tip! ☺️👍

[@simon_dentremont]

Perfect!

[@DanSantanaBows]

Game changing tutorials! Thank you for helping so many of us with our content

[@simon_dentremont]

Glad you like them!

[@Synmomusic]

Thank you Simon. Your videos are always so well presented and information dense. As a teacher, I know that takes work, and I appreciate how thorough and concise you make these lessons.

[@simon_dentremont]

You are very welcome

[@Kellysher]

Holy crap Simon. I just found this older video of yours. I use the R5 with 100-500. I struggle in low ight with this gear. I’m hoping to get the R7ii when it comes out. It never occurred to me that a crop sensor camera would affect my shutter speed. I’ve never heard anyone talk about this. That thought experiment hit home. Please do more on the use of zoom lenses. A lot of us can’t afford the big primes. As an older woman, working weight will always be a consideration, so a good zoom if fine for me. I’m sitting here wondering what else I might be missing! You pack so much into these teachings that I’m watching this again!

[@yohannschonfelder4880]

Simply can't get enough of your videos!

[@maxgrillmickellpetersen156]

I live in Denmark and always have low-light issues, so learning about proper image stabilization helped me lower my shutter speed for those properly exposed images. Thanks again for the masterpiece of a tutorial, they really help out a ton:D

[@simon_dentremont]

Great to hear!

[@castironwood]

Thank you Dr. d’Entremont for this instrumental video and ALL of you videos. You are truly a master of your craft and a very good communicator. Dr. d’ is appropriate, you have earned it

[@dertanz]

I've been learning so much in the last 6 months watching all your videos. If you provided private lessons online or whatever, I'd join in a 4000th of a second.

[@0123nikon]

YOUR VIDÉOS ARE ON MY FAVORITES LIST , thank you so much ,you are a great photographer and teacher ,

[@simon_dentremont]

Wow, thank you!

[@melvynmanning9427]

Have watched many of your vids and have to say, it’s so refreshing to hear it from someone who’s independent. Thank you so much for your commitment to helping us through the minefield.

[@simon_dentremont]

Welcome!

[@yoshiperspectives4880]

Simon, everyone like you. You know that, right? Just a good guy. Great videos too

[@Rbbuckler]

You are great at 1. Explaining a tip or concept in a way that it is easy to understand, 2. Demonstrating best practices for the subject covered 3. And finally summarizing the explanation and demonstration with examples. Another great Video.

[@simon_dentremont]

I appreciate that!

[@simawds72]

watching these videos is really helping my photography, thanks again.

[@simon_dentremont]

Glad you like them!

[@jeffmiller1140]

Holy cow!! Where have you been all my photographic life??!! Thank you, so much!

[@simon_dentremont]

Happy to help!

[@acemanNL]

WOW!!! one million!!! 💪 thought I heard billion... (but I know you can do it!) 😀 btw my fav lens is the Canon 70-200 L IS for shooting field hockey.

[@BoReynolds]

Jesus Simon, you are a BOSS! EVERY turorial I watch on your channel helps SIGIFICANTLY! Just bought the RF 100-4oo and wondering WHY my shots are MOSTLY out of focus. SHUTTER SPEED! Thank you buddy! Bo Reynolds

[@ilesmic]

Just upgraded to the Canon R6Mark 2 and the RF 100-500 Your tips will be extremely helpful. Thanks, your videos are always so helpful

[@simon_dentremont]

Great to hear!

[@richierich9759]

Another gem of a tutorial, Simon. You have a concise way teaching your wealth of knowledge to others! I shoot with a monopod a lot of times, your stabilization against the knee was a great tip that I will be trying out.

[@simon_dentremont]

Thanks very much!

[@felipeochoa3478]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us Simon. I love your videos! ❤️

[@simon_dentremont]

Thanks very much!

[@howardcrumpler2298]

My Canon 100-400mm ll is by far my favorite lens. And paired with the Canon R7 it's an awesome combination for wildlife photography.

[@mikefrith1590]

I have been photographing primarily birds for a couple of years now and am a noticeably better photographer. I have to say your videos have accelerated my progress. Thanks very much from Vancouver Island

[@simon_dentremont]

Wow, thank you!

[@stevebot]

More awesome tips, tricks and techniques. Another method of tension for stabilization I have used is a paracord with carabiner to connect to the bottom mount on the camera and a loop to hook around your foot on the other end. Pull up and you have a smoother pan if you don’t have a tripod.

[@maxbarko8717]

I am also calibrating my lenses to adjust the focal point. I am using Spyder LensCal from Datacolor.

[@patrickblahut4745]

Really useful review of basics techniques. One other approach: use a slightly shorter focal length lens and crop as needed. Just returned from a railroad trip; across the Canadian Rockies. I used nothing longer than a 300mm lens to capture eagles, bears, and wild horses. It's a lot easier to track an eagle in flight with a 200mm or 300mm lens than a 500mm. Cropping elimininated perhaps 20 - 35% of the image; what was left was sharp;. If I tried to get these images with my 500mm, I likely would have multiple photos of empty space where an eagle was a second before.

[@robertleeimages]

You did what many many others don't do when explaining shutter to focal length, 99% say 250mm to have 1/250sec thinking everyone owns full frame and never ever mention crop factor. For a while i was getting frustrated using this technique and not get sharp images regardless of lens and wondering what i was doing wrong, until asking someone after a night of street photography with a 30mm f1.4 in my very low lit town(compared to a bigger city) where shooting at 1/30sec for a lot of scenes for exposure to be correct or at worst 1 stop under and being hugely disappointed with results. Now I don't have the steadiest of hands due to arthritis, but I've worked out i actually need to go 2 to 3 times the focal length to compensate rather than the 1.6. Anyway long winded way of saying, thanks for actually covering it properly

[@cheeziteater]

You always know exactly what to say to new and experienced photographers, providing techniques that other YTs don't while also keeping it short and simple at the same time!!

[@ejorbe]

Wow, I never thought to add shutter speed to the focal length because I do use an APS-C sensor. I am going to definitely try this this week! The other points I have heard before and have used, but still was not extremely happy with the outcome of the pictures. I am also using an older dslr, but in static or slow moving subjects I am happy with the outcome of the photographs. Also great tip for the monopod!!! Another one I didn’t know and will try! Thank you for another great informative video!!

[@simon_dentremont]

Welcome!

[@SteveMc870]

I started shooting my daughter’s soccer games with my Fuji 100-400mm lens last fall. Lots of great tips here that’ll help me improve those shots. Thanks, as always, for your great tips.

[@coffeemocha]

I watched an older KZbin from you on this topic over the weekend. In that video, you brought up lighting and how important that is. I took that advice and went out near sunset for some bird photos. Wow, you were so right. The lighting made a huge difference. Love your videos.

[@simon_dentremont]

Wow, thank you!

[@DrewMtl]

I liked the monopod technique. I haven't bought one yet, for shooting sports photography.

[@AnandaGarden]

Wonderfully clear and complete. Thank you for helping us all.

[@barbarachamberlain6918]

Canon Rf 100-500 for wildlife (mostly birds) and an occasional landscape shot. Another excellent video!

[@rindertraap1263]

Hi Simon, I believe something might not be entirely correct, you decide if important: The crop factor has no influence on the shutter speed to be used to prevent camera shake or shutter shake. It is actually the pixel size which is important. For example the full frame Sony A7R4 and the APS-C Sony 6600 have virtually same size pixels and so both benefit equally from higher shutter speeds against camera shake. The terribly outdated 1/ss rule applies to FF camera's up to maybe 20-24 megapixels MAX. It would be a shame to have 50+ M-pixels and then finding out its shutter speeds was set for larger pixels, effectively getting an image with less than optimal resolution. My advice would be 1/ss for up to 12 MP full frame, then 1/1.5*ss for 20-24 MP full frame and then 1/2*ss for 50+ MP and also for 24 MP APS-C, assuming no stabilisation. Totally loving your videos with the straight forward instructions and ideas by the way !!

[@simon_dentremont]

I’ll need to do a video some day testing sharpness of high vs low MP cameras. I’ve seen this discussion before, but it’s not an obvious no-brainer to me. I’m happy to be shown otherwise.

[@billr3053]

Makes sense that angular movement breaks down to any pixel-to-pixel blur at the sensor end. So pixel density is the deciding factor if one decides to pixel peep at 100%. It would be interesting to apply the one-over-focal-length rule on digital cameras, after optimizing with factors, and then reverse engineer what the effective megapixels would have been during chemical film days. The film grain versus pixel density. Roughly speaking I think we’ve exceeded film grain worries when we achieved 12 megapixels or higher.

[@AndresHernandez-fd1hi]

Your content is straight and simple to understand. Thank you.

[@DonBernhard]

Wow. Packed with great info. Must watch more than once.

[@simon_dentremont]

Awesome, thank you!

[@muzza4553]

all i can say is thank you . thank you so much for sharing tips . especially settings tips . because of you i got my first real nature photo today . just a squirrel but perfectly clear on a hand held nikon d5300 with a sigma prime 500 mm ex APO hsm lens . i have a spinal condition and is very hard with lighwieght gear . but the monster sigma stops the hands moving.

[@bernym4047]

i;m just getting into bird photography and I had forgotten about my camera's IS in panning mode. Thanks for the reminder, I will give it a try next time I'm trying to capture flying birds. My long lens is a LEICA DG 100-400/F4.0-6.3 (MFT)

[@tonyfluertynaturephotograp5272]

Another awesome and helpful video Simon. You are a gifted teacher. I always use mode 2 as I very seldom find myself shooting only birds in flight or perching birds. When doing walk-up or walk-around photography, I find Mode 2 is a good compromise. Encounter photography perhaps sounds more impressive lol You never know what your going to encounter when your walking around or stalking birds so it's best to have all your bases covered best as possible.

[@ericrobinson8078]

Fantastic basic and practical tips very well presented with zero bs. Thanks a lot.

[@scott5747]

Great info. A rep from Tamron said that lenses are best 2 stops from either end. Coming from a video lens world, at the end of the zoom, the lens is slightly soft. Maybe it's better to pull the zoom back a touch and crop in post. Sony a6300 and A7siii - Sony G 200-600mm

[@celeselopez7373]

I was really thinking of getting a whole new set of gear! Im a nikon user with tamron 100- 400 lens. But shutter speed makes such a BIG difference in my photos. Thank you for continuing to share your Excellent videos

[@darrennaylor5278]

Simon, just had the best session of birding to date, watched the bird tips and this and hey presto, the birds must have known i was on a mission, they turned up in droves to be shot sharply, i am sure i have lots to learn and build in to my outings with my camera but the improvements evident today are inspiring, many thanks from Yorkshire.

[@MattTrevett]

Huge caveat to the electronic shutter is rolling shutter effect. Sony A1 and A9, Canon R5 (if I remember right) barely show any rolling shutter, but most other mirrorless have really bad distortion.

[@clairehachey2189]

Brilliant information as usual and just what I needed to hear. I work with the Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary for Canon handheld and I'm trying to figure out how to kick it up a bit to get better sharpness. On my Canon R7, there is a warning as to the Electronic shutter mode which states that fast moving subjects may look distorted, so I simply use either Mechanical mode or Elec.1st-curtain and so far I have no problem :) Once again, thank you Simon for the awesome tips!

[@simon_dentremont]

You're welcome!

[@ronyedin]

Great points. I have a Sony and I also have to turn off lens stabilization when I shoot over 1/1000. Here’s another pointer. Long lens shooters are especially affected by visible heat waves. For those who don’t know, telephoto lenses will optically compress the warping effect resulting in soft images and inaccurate autofocus. Quality loss from heat wave distortion presents itself most noticeably when going beyond 150mm-200mm and above focal lengths.

[@Bassmunchkin1]

Simon, absolutely priceless and revisiting some of your ideas from your previous videos is an absolute must, because they are great reminders because at 62, my memory tends to fail me sometimes, so for me every single detail of your professional advise is welcome a million times over. Ohhh and as for your photos... absolutely mint (incredible detail) My lens for wildlife of which I've only just started learning, is the RF 100 - 500 combined with my 2 day old R6 MKII and 24 - 105 f/4 of which I'm drooling consistently and with your incredible help, hopefully I can capture some mesmerising images for life

[@simon_dentremont]

Great setup Terry!

[@davidgommeren7283]

Thanks so much for another excellent video. This morning I started using another technique taught by you. It was a beautiful but cold (-2 degrees Celsius) spring morning, mist rising of the river and lake but lots of birds around. They recently build some wooden platforms very low on the water (or below water level during floods) which are excellent platforms to lie down on to get close to the surface. Managed to take some nice photos of birds at bird eye level, but still not sharp. Will take a beanbag next time as well and maybe see if my lens is sharper with a smaller aperture.

[@simon_dentremont]

A beanbag would be perfect there.

[@xcrikard4520]

Thanks again Simon for being such nice source of knowledge, how to become a better photographer. Much appreciated!

[@simon_dentremont]

My pleasure!

[@NullStaticVoid]

didnt hear you mention it, but the guy that taught me marksmanship was adamant that you exhale before pulling the trigger. The point of this is that if you are breathing in and out, the inflation and deflation of your lungs will affect your sighting. If you hold your breath in, the beat of your heart is transmitted through your hands and body to the rifle or in this case camera. So his advice is that it's better to exhale and hold the exhale. He may not be entirely right about the reasons, but he was an acclaimed marksman who built his own trigger groups and was seminal in several fields. So I follow his advice.

[@simon_dentremont]

I think it’s less critical than in shooting rifles and archery, having done both, but for super slow shutter speeds, yes.

[@ndc5544p]

Now I understand why they say x stops of image stabilisation! Thanks for the explanation!

[@mike3611]

This video was very clear and helpful for beginners. Lots of valuable tips. Thank you for this video.

[@simon_dentremont]

Glad it was helpful!

[@justdavidphotos]

I looked, but didn't see one. Maybe a video all about the pros and cons of lens hoods. The when and when not to use stuff. Thanks for all your videos Simon!

[@shapshot1]

Thanks Simon, another jam packed full video with amazing tips…never heard the eyebrow technique before …think I might need to start prating this one!🤔

[@simon_dentremont]

Happy to help!

[@rogermaioli]

Awesome video as always! One thing I wish I'd known about relying on the electronic shutter to avoid vibration is that it comes at a cost in terms of rolling shutter -- especially in contexts like this, where we're trying to capture fast moving subjects.

[@tedbrown7908]

True words Simon. I use auto ISO and shutter speed between 1600 and 2500 and get very sharp images with a tripod or hand held.

[@glenmitchell4868]

Great video, as always! When you are propping your elbow against your body, slow and steady breathing really helps, too.

[@simon_dentremont]

yup, like in archery or at the gun range.

[@glenmitchell4868]

@@simon_dentremont exactly, although I hope I'm better at photography than I ever was at archery or shooting!

[@mirandadejarnatt2300]

I just got a telephoto lens and you truly are a god send.🙏

[@simon_dentremont]

Welcome!

[@4CardsMan]

Back in the day, I photographed birds with a Hassselblad 203hand held . To get really sharp photos with the 350mm lens, a shutter speed of 1/12250 was required.

[@wellingtoncrescent2480]

Another great video, Simon. Thanks. Although I now live on the prairies, I am originally from Nova Scotia, and your locale inspires me :). For several years, I used the Tamron 100-400 Di VC and Sigma 150-600C for birds and wildlife, and I was generally pleased by the results. But when I upgraded to the R7, I sold my old lenses and replaced them with the RF 100-500. The lens is lighter than those it replaced, the dual focus motors are fast and accurate, the lens OIS works well with the R7 IBIS, and the image quality is simply spectacular. In addition, having a minimum focus distance of about 0.9m at all focal lengths makes for a handy "macro-like" lens. Since I mostly shoot birds and wildlife, this lens practically " lives" on my R7, though I'm looking forward to the R7 Mark II 😀

[@1chrisandrew1]

There really is some great tips in this video. I particularly liked the monopod techniques and the cereal packet taped to the door to actually test your lens' best aperture. Great work Simon

[@MSFTV73]

What works for me with long lenses is back button focus. When tracking a subject with a telezoomlens i keep my finger on the bbf,that way my subject is always in focus when i push the shutter button with sharpness at the places were i want it to be.

[@DrGreenthumbPhd]

I found that changing the eyecup from the default one to a bigger cheap aftermarket one really helped on my Z6II. Using the default one really hurt my eyebrow after even a minute and it let in a lot of stray light making it harder to see the EVF. The $20 eyecup from amazon (shaped like a tear drop to better fit your eye socket) was such a huge upgrade and made my camera so much more enjoyable to use. But I can imagine it would be difficult to use with glasses.

[@jimbruton9482]

Simon, in a way videos on photography subjects are like saved images. The bulk of them are so-so and then there are the "keepers". Your videos are consistently in the keeper category and are worthy of revisiting them often. This particular video was important for me as I just took ownership of the Canon RF 100-500 telephoto and initially I have been less than ecstatic about the lens, mostly due to sharpness. Your video on this topic let me see where I may have been making some mistakes (mostly movement and too low a shutter speed) and I'm excited to go out and use some of the techniques you are recommending. Thanks!

[@simon_dentremont]

Glad I could help!

[@amykamin5758]

Excellent. The timing of this video for me couldn’t have been any better. My friend is going to loan me the Canon 500mm f4 IS II USM ef mount. I have never shot at this focal length before. Local Bald Eagles are set to hatch any day. Thanks for the great tips.

[@simon_dentremont]

You’ll love it!

[@johnford6273]

Even though I'm only using a Lumix FZ1000 II while I decide which way to go with better gear, there always stuff you talk about that is relevant no matter what you take pictures and video with. Great stuff - thanks for sharing your passion and knowledge.

[@simon_dentremont]

Thanks for sharing!

[@esoxhu]

Excellent tips again Simon. Thank you so much.

[@simon_dentremont]

My pleasure!

[@prsearls]

Very good tips. I am lucky shooter to have a Canon 500mm f/4 lens; it's incredibly sharp if I do my part. I discovered many of these when shooting the moon. Camera shake/vibration was softening its fine detail until I used better technique like you describe. You have a wonderful teaching style, straight to the point, practical advice that works. I'm happy I discovered your channel. I'm now a subscriber.

[@charlesmckenna6164]

Happy to say I’ve been implementing all of those tips since I bought my Sony 200-600. And some of them in all of my photography, even when I’m using a 20mm. As always thanks for the tips!!

[@simon_dentremont]

Happy to help!

[@KellyPettit]

Didn't know the eyebrow tip! Will definitely start doing that. Thanks for another killer video!

[@marcorossi2182]

Thank you again Simon! What about a video on Hyperfocal distance, focus scale and where how to set focus point to get all in focus?

[@simon_dentremont]

Great suggestion!

[@Sphyxx]

I am in love with your videos for how clear yet thorough they are. With being a beginner photographer in using a so-called proper camera, I'm catching up on a decade of learning transferring from phone photography, and your videos are being amazingly helpful and inspirational on my journey.

[@simon_dentremont]

Wow, thank you!

[@Sphyxx]

@@simon_dentremont Do you have any opinions on the new R5 software update? Apparently, it's making the R5 capable of 400mpx images.

[@simon_dentremont]

@@Sphyxx That’s a neat trick, but the full 45 MP resolution is usually enough for my needs, and I have long lenses if I need more reach. I can see some people using it though.

[@esturisky7hi408]

Love the vid love your photo of the owl in the beginning

[@simon_dentremont]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@Running-withscissors]

Wow. I use L lenses too and generally turn the IS OFF... Usually. I shoot street and sports (especially dogs - herding- coursing, UKI, etc) I need to go back and look at the stab' options on the Ls and modes as - again - I "usually leave it off (2500 is the lowest SS for me in 80% of shoots) as I do have trouble with panning sharpness at times I always find.

[@SkylarkFields]

Super helpful tips which I shall try and remember to follow. Thank you!

[@simon_dentremont]

Wonderful!

[@chrisbright2613]

One of, if not the most helpful and informative videos to amateurs like myself 😅

[@EthanBoggio]

I so needed this! Getting my 600mm F/4 tomorrow! I watch and rewatch your videos in my woodshop while I work. Okay, it's more like listening to but the videos are jam packed with solid info! Thank you Simon!

[@simon_dentremont]

Great lens!

[@MurrayVader-xp8iv]

My longest is a 75 300 canon zoom f4 that was originally used with a eso film camera. It works well for me so far. Knowing how to use it better is very helpful. I'm not sure of the quantity of the lens

[@russelltaylor3102]

Jeez! That was great. Thanks for those tips. The eyebrow tip is gold! 😊❤

[@jolakedra2998]

Excellent tips! My favourite from this is stabilizing monopod. Thanks a million❤

[@simon_dentremont]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ardscorner]

Another very helpful and well explained video...............no one tells you these tips, they are learned through years of experience, or in this case, your experience which you are kind enough to share. One of my biggest improvements was calibrating all of my lenses. My 300 with and without the 1.4TC was front focusing, which was making me miss a lot of subject photos. Together with your extensive catalogue of really helpful videos I am eliminating problems before they can happen and using so much more of my cameras capability by knowing what things do, and more importantly why they do them. Weather is dark and rainy over here in The UK, but spring is almost upon us which does bring some fantastic light. Thanks as always for your time, very much appreciated.

[@simon_dentremont]

You're welcome!

[@samuel.e.glover]

Hi Simon. I really enjoy your channel! Great job. I liked the info you had in this one and used it when getting out and bird shooting this weekend. Press it hard and make it hurt. Thanks for the tip to reduce one element of blur!

[@peterk_hh]

Your videos are always that easy to understand and helpful, thank you ❤

[@mawavoy]

Thanks for your comprehensive analysis and solutions.

[@simon_dentremont]

So nice of you

[@MLJ7424]

Hello Simon , great tips and techniques, thank you.

[@BoxerTys]

My monopod trick for better stabilization with my favorite the EF 400mm L F/5.6, is to mount the lens with the collar sideways on the monopod, not on top of it... 🍻

[@hlmg1985]

Great video Simon. Well explained and sharpness I think is very important.

[@suebyrne7739]

Really enjoyed this video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@simon_dentremont]

You bet!

[@WhoDareChillYouN]

Best teaching video.

[@simon_dentremont]

Glad you think so!

[@jefferyrobbins3468]

Thanks for this helpful info in your video. The only shots I have trouble with reaching critical sharpness on are small, flying birds, such as songbirds. The outline of the bird is sharp and some details are sharp, but a lot of the fine feather detail is missing, compared to the rich feather detail achieved with slow moving and stationary shots. Doesn't seem to be an issue as much with larger flying birds such as waterfowl size or larger, but even with these there is some loss of fine detail compared to slow moving/stationary. I always shoot small, flying birds in good sunlight, 30 feet or less from my subject, panning freehand as best I can (which is really hard since they are fast and erratic so not a lot of keepers), and shutter speeds from 4000th to 8000th (shutter speed over 4000th doesn't seem to make much difference), f8, auto ISO (usually floats around 1200-1600), Canon R5, RF 100-500 L, center square box zone servo AF (eye tracking doesn't always stay locked on, and I've tried all the cases). Again, some details are sharp (such as outline, beak, feet, eyes) so it seems the high shutter speed and f8 depth of field are doing their job, but the fine feather detail is missing. Maybe I'm asking too much from the sensor??? There can't be much light reaching the sensor during such a small fraction of time. I rarely see a content creator photographing small birds in flight (99% of time they are photographing medium to large flying birds) which further makes me suspicious that it simply isn't feasible with current technology. Kind regards -- Jeff

[@simon_dentremont]

Over cropping small bird pics can rob them of sharp details. That might be it.

[@jefferyrobbins3468]

@@simon_dentremont Thanks, I'll experiment with that.

[@keithspurlock4732]

Just got my first super telephoto for my new Z8, the Nikkor 180-600! Can't wait to try it out! Thanks for the eyebrow tip! 😎

[@Laura-ow2xx]

great video as always! i recently got a sigma 150-500mm and these definitely help. another thing that could be helpful, and this goes to the people who use third party brands like tamron and sigma, especially older models: try not to shoot at the max zoom range as the quality tends to drop there. for example if you have a 500mm lens, try using it at 400mm to see if there is a difference in quality. my sigma 150-500mm sadly loses a bit of quality at the max zoom range but for its price imo it still produces great shots

[@pleappleappleap]

Lean on something stationary, hold your breath, and gently squeeze the shutter release. It can also help to use a remote release, either wired or wireless, when you're on a tripod. Both work well. I use an IR remote exclusively, when I'm shooting astrophotography through a telescope. At those focal lengths, you get a bunch of shake just from your finger contacting the shutter release or, if your mount isn't weighted down enough, even from the slightest breeze.

[@simon_dentremont]

I’ve got an 8 inch RASA, you’re right!