Solder PL-259 connector on DXE-400 coax

[@thecowboy2492]

Just wanted to say "Thank You" for the great video on soldering. I have just entered the world of Amateur Radio at 67 years of age. I have never soldered before now and your video was a Great Help to me. I am putting a PL-259 on DXE 400 Max and it has gone very well, but I did take my time and kept your video up on my PC to watch each step. Again, Thank You!

[@timothystockman7533]

I have used clamp-type compression connectors with DXE400MAX. One puts the connector together with wrenches,then you solder the center conductor. Much easier IMHO. Way back when I used to install solder type PL259s. To avoid having the braid unravel, it should be tinned BEFORE you make the final cut. This means its essentially locked into place before it it soldered into the connector. I learned this from Ralph Townsley, the chief engineer at WBAA in the day when clamp-type PL259s were almost impossible to get. Back then, only N connectors came standard as clamp-type. I would make a video showing how to install solder PL259s, except that I really recommend the clamp-type connectors. They eliminate hassles with the braid altogether.

[@paulgrodkowski5839]

It's nice to read that there are a lot of folks moving along with the times using different types of coax! Whenever I approach these things I still have in my mind RG 213 and mainly work with RG 8 mini. I still think through going with RG 8 mini becuase of challenges with connectors and reducers. It looks less cumbersome to work with and from what I have read it should have the same specs as RG 8. This video demonstrates to me that it is a good idea to stay with RG 8 because it is a better way to make a reliable electrical and mechanical and sound connection.

[@ericdriscoll1881]

Fantastic video & technique. Thanks for sharing.

[@JR-lx8nn]

Nicely done. I skip the optional step of tinning the braid before installing the connector as that makes it brittle and shortens its bending life. (Picky point, but there it is.) Yes, one should solder all the holes as you clearly say - to seal the connector and assure electrical continuity. Tip: I would not, however, put the connector itself into the vice, and have the vice grab the cable close to the end of the connector - as the vice can become a heat sink, making it more difficult to heat the connector and flow solder into the holes. Definitely use the largest tip your soldering iron can hold as the more mass/ballast, the faster you will heat the connector. Thanks for the swell refresher course. TT

[@fargonaz]

A 90 degree adapter also aids in screwing the body on the cable.

[@TBizzell68]

Howdy neighbor, I’m in Williamson County, thanks for the great video

[@modex20]

that center dielectric definitely reflowed

[@mikebenefield8477]

Excellent video.

[@daveb4688]

Great demo. neat, informative and accurate and very easy to follow. Thanks for this video

[@palerider55]

That looked PRO, nice job, thank you. I will follow your example.

[@jimmayors2315]

Thanks for the instruction. What type/size of solder are you using?

[@walteranderson7889]

Nice job. What wattage soldering iron are you using? 73/N4WJA

[@michaellombardy8749]

Schweet!!! Thank you, this video helped me tremendously! Perfect the first time!

[@Sanwizard1]

What soldering Iron are you using?

[@jennifer86010]

0:22 Very good video. How heavy was the hammer that gave your left thumb that shiner? Ouch !!

[@bobkae5810]

What is the MINIMUM wattage for the heat source, either soldering iron or soldering gun.

[@tsant6591]

Got it on the 3rd try, lol. Thanks for the detailed video.

[@xucaen]

What did you use to clean the tip of the iron? It was off camera and I could not see it.

[@N2LRB]

I find that the plastic holding the center connector melts somewhat and messes up the connector. It always scares me to apply soldering iron heat, for fear of melting the center pin off center.

[@georgetownsend3700]

good video. 2 comments. 1, use a 7/16 coarse die and turn it down on the outside of the cable, instead of the dx tool, a lot cheaper. 2, use a small machinists file or small chainsaw file to elongate the holes. ridiculously hard to get solder to flow in those small holes without o/heating the insulator.

[@billgatewood9578]

Bend your solder a 1/4” on the end so you know how much you are using.

[@robertbledsoe8810]

Why would you not tin the center feed line?

[@jennifer86010]

Best policy is to tin everything. Connector center tip, braid holes, coax center conductor and braid. It takes a bit longer because you have to file the coax conductors down to fit the connector, but everything solders up really solid after everything is tinned ahead of time. On antennas that are high and moving around in wind and weather, you need the most solid solder connections possible.

[@overlordddrp]

Not too sure about your vice. I prefer a vice which is bigger and heavier than my hand

[@megadwood18]

cant you use this method on rg8x

[@garynorthtruro]

Too much heat applied for too long.

[@modex20]

seems like a catch 22. need enough heat to make it flow. but then it's too hot for the coax.

[@wxfield]

And yet.. No shorts. No problem screwing together. Even the heat shrink came out perfect.

[@modex20]

wxfield is there no problem though? Lack of a DC short is a good sign. But he’s not testing the impedance of the connection. Any melting of the center insulator can change the capacitance at that section of coax. There’s no short but the impedance is no longer 50 ohms.

[@AlessioSangalli]

@@wxfield testing an RF transmission line in DC only and calling it good is not best practice

[@markavery2888]

Change over to quality crimp connectors and you will never use this type of connector again!