Simple DIY Wood Drying Kiln

Build a low cost DIY wood drying kiln in your garage to dry lumber milled on a sawmill. Milling your own lumber can save you a lot of money, but milling is only half the battle; you still have to dry the wood before you can use it. Lumber for use in indoor projects should be dried to 6 - 8% MC. This video details a means to finish dry lumber after air drying outside to MC 12 - 14%. This design will dry green or air dried lumber. It uses typical household items and low cost material available from any building supply store. Total cost to construct this kiln is under $200. The kiln uses a home dehumidifier, a heat source and a fan to remove moisture from the wood. This design is intended to be constructed inside your garage or other protected space and will dry 400-500 board feet of lumber. For more information about the lumber milling process, estimating weight and volume of the lumber in your logs, or how to cut and dry lumber from your logs, visit us at www.logstolumbernow.com.
© 2019 by Alan Boyett. All rights reserved. No part of this video may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without the written permission of the copyright holder.

[@dp91c]

Thank you for being so clear and concise, I get tired of some videos being so long and more of a big production then an informational video. I think I will be making one of these!

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks. I like to keep it on point. I hope it helps.

[@BlairCarlyle]

"After the third day... the dehumidifier stopped drawing out moisture" sounds like a bible passage hahah Thank you for the great vid!

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks.

[@zachcandomagic]

I have been researching the process of cutting lumber to using it for fine furniture, and your video was absolutely incredible! Very well thought out and presented. I really enjoyed it and learned a ton! Thank you!

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thank you for your comments. I made an oak table from the lumber in my kiln. This was truly a farm to table, table.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

You will want to heat the kiln to at least around 90 degrees so the air will hold enough humidity for the dehumidifier to work efficiently. Cold air does not hold as much moisture. If you are not sterilizing the wood then you may not need the heat source. The heat from the dehumidifier compressor may be enough if you use some insulation.

[@johnradziszewski9192]

I cut down and alaska chain saw milled quite a bit of red oak a year ago on my property...a lot of work in itself! fyi..I followed these log to lumber kiln plans to the detail with terrific results! I have some great furniture plans ahead...40% moisture content at 100 degrees F over 2 weeks degrees was spot on to get me at 8% moisture content overall to start jointing and planning was great advice!!!.. ....thanks very much for this professional advice!

[@boyetta1]

Thanks for the comments. I'm glad you got the same great results I get. For individuals like me with limited room, a temporary kiln is the answer to dry enough wood for a project or two, then you get your workshop back to build your projects. Repeat for your next project.

[@woodkirkworks9365]

The way you put the frame together is absolutely brilliant. I've never thought to assemble both the top and bottom together, add the corners, and shimmy the thing up like that. Nice work. I'll be sure to use this trick next time instead of fighting with my frames that aren't square.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

You learn many tricks when you work alone. You can never have too many clamps!

[@boots7859]

I agree, that is a slick time saving trick there.

[@sly9263]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to make this video.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks for watching. My goal is to answer common questions home owners ask me when I mill their logs.

[@TheOlsonOutfit]

That's great info about normal space heaters.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Safety is important. If you want to buy a heater built for this purpose it costs $800 or more. The heat lamp seemed a good, low cost and safe solution.

[@avecforte8851]

Great video! Would love to see more about kiln process and the theory behind those numbers you used for heat and moisture

[@logstolumbernow2011]

The best resource for kiln drying schedules is DRYING HARDWOOD LUMBER published by USDA Forest Service. If you are using a home dehumidifier however, you have to keep within it's operating temperature range to avoid damaging the compressor.

[@paulgerlich847]

This was a great video. Thank you for doing this!

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Your welcome. Thanks for the view.

[@aljundating1574]

He is reading, but this presentation is detailed and good.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks. Still working on my camera presence. It is the old dogs thing.

[@rkirbylancaster3225]

Awesome - thanks mate !!

[@phillipesuon5071]

Thanks for this video, very informative

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks for watching. I am glad it helps.

[@Joestacemazjojo]

Very great video, I’ve been wanting all summer to build a solar kiln but am now approaching winter in upstate NY, and this seems to be a better idea for now maybe ultimately. Seems to be a faster process and less cost of material. The bugs are my main concern as the lumber has been air drying for some time. Thanks again

[@boyetta1]

Thanks. Glad this helps. I like this design since I build it then take it down so I get my workshop back.

[@redsquirrelftw]

Wow good to know that this works, I have an idea in mind to build a kiln very similar to this once I setup my saw mill but was not sure how well it would work.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks. In later versions of this kiln, I added 1 1/2 foam board insulation cut to friction fit between the 2x4 frame in addition to the styrofoam insulation.

[@davidboston4574]

Awesome video!!!

[@boyetta1]

Thanks.

[@roflstomps324]

Thank you, Sir. I was literally thinking that there must be a way to do this at home and here it is...

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks for watching. Glad this helps others enjoy woodworking.

[@jeremysmits9784]

I built a similar kiln. I have found that I don’t need the heater unless it’s too cold out for the humidifier to run. I also didn’t wrap mine in plastic and I can take the front side off for loading the kiln. Seems to work good and since it’s lumber I had milled from logs I cut myself it’s very cheap material compared to buying it. I also set the humidifier to run continuously. Seems to work better that way

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks for your comments. I wrapped my kiln in plastic to keep moisture from entering from the surrounding environment. I did not really need the heat element until I went to sterilize the wood to kill insects. The heat from the dehumidifier compressor kept the temp up during the bulk of the drying process.

[@peterrigicha4296]

Thank you

[@logstolumbernow2011]

👍

[@viking1ur]

nice but also a informativ and pleasant to watch video - thank u sir

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks.

[@basknation]

Terrific kiln. Your videos are straightforward and clear. I appreciate you’re down to earth style. Thanks buddy.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks. I'm glad it helps.

[@dugartmetaldetecting2418]

Thank you very informative

[@boyetta1]

Thanks

[@dennisdownes9319]

Great video...thanks! DD

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Glad you enjoyed it. Hope it was helpfull.

[@6cwl9]

Great information

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks.

[@nicson43]

sir, thank you for your video , really this wonderful information ,and i am going to build an new wood drying kiln on my workshop and i have some doubts for construction of wood kiln chamber so i hope some helps from you if you don't main

[@boyetta1]

Sure. What can I help you with?

[@ArchanaSingh-vu7lk]

Awesome thanks

[@boyetta1]

Hope it provided useful information.

[@ramawood7175]

Good job sucses always

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks

[@sdesytfcanon]

Very interesting video, thanks! Did you thought about placing the space heater outside the kiln with a conduit to the kiln? I think the dehumidifier could handle the added air humidity brought in. But I’m not sure

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I did not think of that. It would complicate the design a little but may improve on some safety concerns with having a heater inside the box. I used the amount of water drawn off by the dehumidifier as a gauge for when the wood was dry since I did not have a moisture sensor in the wood. In later versions of this design, I added 1 1/2 inch pink insolation board and found that the heat from the dehumidifier itself was sufficient for the drying process and only needed the heater for sterilization.

[@cslapler007]

Is the foam board only to retain heat? I'm considering building one of these to speed up the process of firewood drying (different dims) so I dont need to sterilize the wood. But I would want to bring wood thats 20-30% moisture down to

[@georgevanvalkenburg2560]

THANKS, TERRIFFIC INFO, EXCELLENTLY PRESENTED

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks. I try to keep it short with just the facts.

[@stevenrashby]

Thanks for the great video. I am about to mill a quantity of oak into 4/4 boards. Would it be viable to put those boards in a kiln like yours from the get go, or would you have to air dry it first? Thanks!

[@boyetta1]

Yes you can dry green lumber with this design. It will take 2-3 months. Check the moisture content once a week to monitor progress. I am about to build this again to dry some 8/4 green oak slabs. I expect it to take 90 days.

[@nascointeriors1665]

Very nice good

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks.

[@saz123ful]

Thank you Sir! Best video for wood drying in utube!! And only 5 and a half minutes for perfect explain!!

[@boyetta1]

Thanks. Keeping it short and to the point.

[@saz123ful]

@@boyetta1 That's right!! Some people put after cutting the wood in the water for some weeks or months... this helps for faster physical air-drying. I'm confused with this technique, is it bad or good for wood?What is your opinion?

[@boyetta1]

@@saz123ful I have not heard of soaking wood in water before air drying it. That seems counter intuitive.

[@saz123ful]

@@boyetta1 That's what I'm thinking too.

[@Joestacemazjojo]

I finally built one similar yet without a heat source ( for safety reasons). The kiln has gotten up to 129 degrees from the dehumidifier alone, also have a box fan going continuously. Do you think this will be adequate to kill any bugs? It has been running 5 days now like this. The wood is ash attacked by beetles. It had been air drying outside for approximately 10 months previously. Thank you in advance. This video has been very helpful

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Yes. I believe this will kill any bugs. My experience and the research I have read says that getting the wood to an core temperature of 130 degrees for 24 hours, after the wood has reached at least 8 percent moisture content, will kill pests, their eggs and fungi that effect wood. The combination of low moisture and high temp will do the trick. The length of time it will take for the core temp to rise to this level will be dependent on the lumber thickness. However, US regulations for international Trade requires heating wood to a minimum core temperature of 133 degrees. Be sure to check your MC using a moisture meter. Don't guess.

[@jomshobbies]

Hey I have the same exact moisture meter!

[@boyetta1]

Inexpensive and available locally at your big box stores. An essential tool for a kiln.

[@Suppergrassy]

Do you use a moisture meter in the kiln when running to determine when the switch from drying to sterilization?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I do not use a moisture meter in the wood being dried but I do use a humidity sensor in the kiln that I monitor. I also monitor the water being pulled out of the wood. When I stop pulling off water, then I switch to the sterilization phase.

[@ianallan2337]

Nice design. Did you consider keeping the electric heater outside the kiln and ducting the heat to the inside? I recently purchased a quantity of cherry, soft maple and ash from an individual who had stored it for many years. Upon milling the lumber I discovered extensive damage to the ash, less damage in the maple and minor damage in the cherry. I have been cooking short lengths of maple in my oven (I'm single) but need to sterilize the longer lengths. The heating is vital to me.

[@boyetta1]

I sealed the kiln to keep out the humidity from the surrounding room. If I ducted in air from outside, I would not be able to control the moisture in the kiln. I have since modified the heater to remove the high temp shut off. Will try it next time.

[@ianallan2337]

I like to hear your results. Thanks.

[@timothyhall4947]

This is helpful. So I am clear, the total time inside the kiln was about 10 days? Including the 130 degree heat treatment? Thanks in advance for your response.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Yes, but the wood had air dried for a long time. The Initial moisture content was about 12% when I put it in the kiln. I dried it to 8%. Green wood will take 6 weeks or so.

[@davidburson6406]

That is a fabulous video sir!! Have looked at several and yours in by far the most succint and to the point, with the details needed. Getting ready to build one, main difference I am planning is it will be an outside kiln set on a back patio (but not under cover). So will put a exterior siding and roofing material of some sort. My main question for now is- have you worked out the issue with the heat source and ability to hold it hotter is desired?? I assume the dehumidifier would suffice to bring up to the low 100-120 deg plus temps for the drying, but for the sterilization process, which is important, I would like to get it up to 150. You said the heat lamps didnt get it that hot for you? Did you go back to the heater and did that work? Can you recommend a heater that would do that, or what did you use to make that happen? TY so much, looking forward to your other projects, just subscribed :)

[@boyetta1]

I have found that almost all consumer products have an over temp protection circuit in its controls. Even the dehumidifier shut down when the temp got above 120 degrees in the chamber. I was able to operate my dehumidifier at 100 degrees. I had the tempreture controller set for 100 degrees. It only turned on the heat source while the compressor of the dehumidifier was cycling off. I was not able to reach 150 degrees in my kiln for the sterilization cycle. It could be due to the limited amount of insulation I use. Next time I may add more insulation. The key temperature to kill insects is to get the internal temp of the wood to 130 degrees. In a commercial kiln, the setpoint is 150 degree temperature for 8-24 hours. This is required to get the internal temp of the wood to that critical temp of 130 degrees. If you leave the wood in a 130 degree chamber for longer, you should get the same effect. This is what I do. I keep the wood at this higher temp for 3 days. To set pitch in pine, you may need the full 150 degrees. I have looked at several types of consumer heaters. All the space and garage heaters I have looked at all have the over temp protection and will shut down before your chamber reaches the 150 temp set point. You may have to get a special purpose heating element. I found one from Nyle for kilns but it is expensive and requires 240 VAC. That defeats the purpose of my "low cost" kiln concept.

[@davidburson6406]

@@boyetta1 TY that helps a lot, good info, detailed just like your videos, TY!!!

[@thomaswhitten2537]

I wonder if this or a similar system would work for firewood drying. Hmmm....

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Yes. It will work for any wood product.

[@zlancenyc]

That's great. I have some lumber I milled last year that's been sitting outside and drying. This sounds like a really good way to dry lumber. I wonder if I can run something like this outside.

[@boyetta1]

Yes but my design is not weather tight. I would expect you would need more insulation and a water proof roof as a minimum.

[@zlancenyc]

@@boyetta1 Reason I'm asking is I have a concern, which may be unfounded, about fire safety with this setup. I definitely have some space in the basement for something like this.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

If you do not use the homemade heat source, you should be fine. Most commercial products such as the dehumidifier should have a high temp shutdown. With just the fans and the dehumidifier, the temp should not exceed 100deg. You could also add a smoke detector to the setup for added security.

[@zlancenyc]

@@logstolumbernow2011 My main reason for using the kiln is to kill PPB and such that live on my property, so I think heat is pretty important for the process. I'm thinking of a portable design that I can break down.

[@glasstomo]

Hi Alan, I just built a kiln per your video. Thanks so much for the detailed instructions. My tree was just cut down here in ohio and is a softwood maple. How long do you suppose I should leave it in the kiln? Is 100 degrees the right temp for my fresh cut lumber? Thanks so much! Josh

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Hi Josh, Yes, I believe 100 deg is a good temp for your kiln. You have to be careful not to exceed the operating temps of the dehydrator. Mine shuts down at an internal temp of 120 deg. 100 deg in the chamber is right at that border line. Drying times are dependent on thickness as well as specie. 8/4 boards will take 60-90 days. 4/4 boards will take 30-60 days. You want to take out 1-2% MC per day.

[@glasstomo]

@@logstolumbernow2011 thanks so much sir!

[@ThanhNguyen-pz5nd]

Hi there. I have some 2x4 wood I want to reduce the moisture content to 8% Can you tell me step by step and how much time it takes to dry? thanks you so much

[@logstolumbernow2011]

What is the starting MC? How many bdft are you wanting to dry at a time? If it has been air dried it should be around 12%. It takes about a week in my setup to dry from this point. It should dry at a rate of about 1% per day. If you are starting from green, the MC will be 100-120%. Drying from green is not linear. For 400 bdft, from green, it will take 2-3 months.

[@fightcancer9488]

How do you keep your dehumidifier running mine gets hot and humidity goes down quickly and it shuts off.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

You may need to open a vent in the insulation if the temperature gets over 100°. Set the dehumidifier to automatic and 50% RH and keep the fan running to circulate the air. The dehumidifier will cycle on and off as it pulls out water. You don't want to pull the water out too fast. It will cause drying defects.

[@boots7859]

Any idea of what your running costs were? I'm in the NE, however still wondering if it might be possible to do this with a black plastic in the yard to get the heat up. Biggest question though is how much warping/twisting results from this? If even moderate, would it make any sense during the sanitize phase to remove the stickers, stack the lumber, and then place a bunch of cinder blocks on it to help level? Or maybe do that after the sanitize, and open the plastic to allow them to absorb some moisture back to assist with leveling?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

This is an answer to a previous question "I did not record or calculate the energy costs related to this project at the time of the video, however the fan consumes about 100 watts per hour, the dehumidifier has a max power draw of 6.8 amps at 115 vac, the heat source was 1000 watts per hour. If you assume the duty cycle of each device was 100% (which it was not), the max power usage would be about 1882 watts per hour. Our power cost is about $0.10 per kilowatt hour. This would make the maximum cost to operate this kiln, $0.19 per hour or $22.58 for the 5 days I ran the kiln." When I stacked my lumber in the kiln, I weighted down the top with concrete blocks to keep the boards from warping. It helps but will not eliminate wood movement. Most of the movement is a result of stress in the board from natural growth events and the method used to mill the logs. I hope this helps.

[@kaf2303]

Seems like you would get better air flow through the wood pile if it flowed parallel to the stickers rather than perpendicular .

[@logstolumbernow2011]

You are correct. With limited room to work with, there are not a lot of choices. In later versions of this kiln, I used smaller fans and placed them on top of the lumber stack blowing parallel with the stickers. I believe that the air turbulence created by the fans in such a confined space will adequately provide air circulation regardless of the fan orientation.

[@Tim_Pollock]

I'm setting up an old refrigerator as a small kiln for my woodturning projects. Do you mind if I ask what controller you used or if you have a link for it? The first one I purchased didn't work out very well.

[@boyetta1]

I used the Inkbird temperature and humidity controller bought from Amazon for about $70. Here is the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GQWY9HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@Tim_Pollock]

@@boyetta1 Thanks Alan.

[@woodmworking3470]

I have old house 20 m2 and I place in that house 2 m3 wood board (20-30%) wet There are no windows in that house, only one stove. Inside that room, I have 2 fans blowing against the wood board. What do you think is that enough or do I need a dehumidifier? I am thinking that the stove was sucking moisture from the air Thanks

[@logstolumbernow2011]

The only way to tell if it is "good enough" is with a moisture meter. I doubt the stove is removing very much moisture. In fact, depending on the fuel source, you may be adding moisture to the room. I would expect the room needs to be vented to allow hot moist air to be replaced by dry cool air.

[@spencerjoplin2885]

If electrical costs are a concern, a portable air conditioner (using the hot “exhaust” hose) would be more energy efficient than resistance heating.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Interesting approach. I'll have to look closer at this option.

[@44elisdad]

Would a bed bug tent heater be a better way to heat this kiln?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I am not familiar with bedbug tent heaters so I cannot say if they would work in this application.

[@sandman2495]

If I missed it i'm sorry but what insulation did you use for the Kiln. Thanks

[@logstolumbernow2011]

In the video, I used 1/2" foil backed Styrofoam panels. I have since added 1 1/2" pink foam board insulation cut to friction fit between the frame structure.

[@user-gg6om8vp4f]

With the moisture content of your dry wood not be consistent with the area and climate that you live in, this can vary drastically

[@logstolumbernow2011]

The wood coming out of the kiln will be drier than the ambient humidity of your region. The kiln should reduce both the bound and unbound water in the wood. The wood will absorb some humidity after it is removed and this will indeed vary by where you are located.

[@milnemataifa7200]

Great video, found exactly what I have been looking for. With his design and this equipment, how much timber, maximum, do you think/recommend I can dry effectively?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Approximately 300 bdft for a 12'x4'x4' version of this kiln. That is a lumber package, including stickers, of 3'x2'x10'.

[@milnemataifa7200]

@@logstolumbernow2011 much appreciated for your feedback. If I wanted to increase the capacity, say double to 600 bdft, would I be correct to increase, besides the size of the kiln build-up, the quantity of heat lumps the and perhaps size of the dehumidifier? If so, will these changes suggest a much longer drying period to achieve the required MC? Thanks in advance for your guidance.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

@@milnemataifa7200 I do not think you would have to scale up the dehumidifier or heat source. Mine do not run continuously to maintain the humidity and temperature set points. Yes, it will take longer for the lumber to dry. The difficulty would be in scaling up the structure. It would no longer be sub multiple sizes of common 8' construction material. It is very efficient to build the structure in multiples of 4' cubes. If you build it larger, you may need more structure just to support its own weight and cross bracing to keep the structure from racking. Horizontal 2x4 pine construction lumber begins to sag at lengths past about 48" without support.

[@milnemataifa7200]

@@logstolumbernow2011 Oh yes thanks you brought up the strength of the structure, a very important consideration to make. Man I couldn't thank you enough for this golden information. 🙏

[@shareeft]

Hey there, can you share what kind of bulbs you used for your heat source? Trying to ensure I can get the kiln to at least 140-150 degrees to ensure anything living in the wood doesn't survive. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

[@boyetta1]

I used four 250w incandescent heat lamp bulbs.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

The last time a assembled my kiln, I added 1 1/2" XPS foam board insulation cut to friction fit between the 2x4s of the frame. This added the extra insulation needed for the heat lamp bulbs to bring the kiln to 140 degrees over about a 2 day period.

[@MarkMunson-jh9gd]

How will this do for a firewood kiln?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Yes. This would be great for firewood.

[@woodworks2123]

So is it right to say in your case here you only needed to do it for 3 days as it stopped pulling moisture after 3 days? Have you done this with just cut lumber? How long would it take with fresh cut lumber to dry roughly?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

It will vary by species and thickness. The important thing is to measure the moisture content of the wood as it dries. It takes about 60 days for 400bdft of 1 inch green oak lumber to reach moisture content of 8% from the initial 75%-80% in my setup. I can pull 1%-2% per day.

[@woodworks2123]

@@logstolumbernow2011 that's a great help, thanks for the info. Keep up the good videos

[@mushroommcfarmer1766]

I'm thinking that simple ducting would have been far simpler than devising another heat source using light bulbs. Edit: Not to take away from your design overall. Seems like a great idea, and affordable for a person with a specific budget.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I did not want to introduce moisture from outside the kiln into the system. If I used a closed loop duct, that would work.

[@sandman2495]

Since you are using the heat lamps on a temp controlled power strip is there still a need to ventilate? I couldn't tell in your video if you had an opening on the end where your fan is or is the entire kiln sealed off?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I did not have a vent in this version of the kiln. In later versions I built, I added 1 1/2" pink insulation board cut to friction fit between the 2x4 structure. This kept the temperature higher so I did vent it until the sterilization step.

[@sandman2495]

Thanks for the reply. In the later version you built, did the pink insulation go on the inside between the 2x4 frame?@@logstolumbernow2011

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Yes. I cut each insulation board to wedge between the 2x4 frame members then put the foil backed Styrofoam insulation on the outside as shown in the video.

[@ballwizz23]

"It is time to begin the pacer test..."

[@chrisw7402]

I’m about to build a kiln based on your design. How long would it take to kiln dry redwood that is green? It’s for an outdoor gated entrance which has intricate panels 1/2” thick and frame 1 3/4” thick.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Be sure to buy a moisture meter. Use it periodically to check the MC during the drying process. For an outdoor project, an MC of 12% is adequate. Redwood heartwood has a moisture content of 90% to 100%. You should target a drying rate of about 1% per day. It should take 2-3 months.

[@chrisw7402]

@@logstolumbernow2011 thank you 🙏

[@joemc111]

Welflits been almost 2 years. So what do you do with the kilm when not in use?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

My workshop is fairly small. I disassemble the kiln and use the material for other projects. I rebuild the kiln replacing what I repurposed, each time I need to dry lumber.

[@joemc111]

@@logstolumbernow2011 thanks for your update.

[@adamthewoodworker2571]

Hi. Three quick questions. 1. Do you have links for the temperature control gauge and the heat lamps you used? 2. What would happen if you only used a dehumidifier, and not any heat source. Would you still get any positive benefit? 3. Were you running everyone constantly or only for so many hours a day? Thanks!

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I used the Inkbird temperature and humidity controller bought from Amazon for about $70. Here is the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GQWY9HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The heat lamps were GE 250-Watt Dimmable R40 Heat Lamp Incandescent Light Bulbs I got from Lowes. They were about $10 each. In later versions of my kiln, I added 1 1/2" pink insulation board, cut to friction fit between the 2x4 structure. With this added insulation, just the heat generated by the dehumidifier was enough to keep the temps up. In fact I would have to vent it some to keep it from getting too hot. The heating element is needed only to sterilize the wood. This kills any insects and their eggs and fungus. It also sets the pitch if it is a pine. You do not want to run your dehumidifier at the temps required for this process. You may damage your compressor. You don't have to sterilize your wood but you run the risk of having insects emerge from your new dinning room table. The dehumidifier was powered continually however it only ran when the relative humidity increased to the setpoint. I keep the RH around 50%. The heat lamps were similarly controlled with a temperature setpoint on the Inkbird. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching...

[@adamthewoodworker2571]

@@logstolumbernow2011 thank you very much for this detailed response! I'm curious, do you have any contact info for this account, like an Instagram? I would like to send you a link to the dehumidifier I bought but KZbin is being wired with posting links in the comments

[@logstolumbernow2011]

@@adamthewoodworker2571 I use a Hisense 70 pint dehumidifier with pump, model #813826. A smaller unit may require additional time to dry the wood. Any similar unit will work just as well.

[@cabinlife1492]

What did you use as a heat source?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

After I realized that my commercial heater was shutting off due to the high temperature, I built a heat source using 4 - 250W heat lamps. This worked fine for my setup.

[@googlinstuff8910]

Very nice, am working on a similar project. Tell me - what type of wood was that you showed at the end? Was it beech?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

No. This was a load of Red Oak. I built a 5'x7' patio dining table from the lumber. Check out my website for a pic of the finished project. www.logstolumbernow.com

[@robertallen4842]

Any particular brand/model of dehumidifier you would suggest? Also looking to make the unit as cost efficient to operate as possible. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.......

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I did not buy my dehumidifier for this project. It was purchased during a rain event that flooded a room of my house. It is a Hisense 70 pint per day dehumidifier with a built-in pump. The pump is important so you do not have to open the kiln to empty the collected water. A smaller unit may be just as effective for this small of a volume.

[@ahunt2117]

How much would this increase the electrical bill? (Dehumidifier, fan, heat source)

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I did not record or calculate the energy costs related to this project at the time of the video, however the fan consumes about 100 watts per hour, the dehumidifier has a max power draw of 6.8 amps at 115 vac, the heat source was 1000 watts per hour. If you assume the duty cycle of each device was 100% (which it was not), the max power usage would be about 1882 watts per hour. Our power cost is about $0.10 per kilowatt hour. This would make the maximum cost to operate this kiln, $0.19 per hour or $22.58 for the 5 days I ran the kiln. I hope this helps.

[@Sc-jf3yk]

Im at about 3 days into drying started at 12%. My question, was the MC equal through the pile? No baffles or anything forcing the air through the pile.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

The volume of the kiln is small, 160 - 220 cft. The fan moves a lot of air in that small space. I do not have any significant MC difference across the load. I do not use a baffle but one may improve the airflow. I think the turbulence created by the air hitting the wall is enough to provide sufficient airflow through the lumber stack.

[@Sc-jf3yk]

@@logstolumbernow2011. When I pulled it from the air drying shed after 9 months it was all over for MC 6/4 oak. Ended up restacking it for a couple months. Thats why the question thanks

[@MrEffectual]

Excellent! I'm using your idea as inspiration to build a modified kiln in my own garage. You mention airdrying to 12-14% BEFORE putting in kiln. I'm in Florida with high humidity, so I doubt airdrying will get it down to that low. What about if I put in wood that's around 22-25% (at least with moisture meter) will that end up drying to below 10%? Appreciate your thoughts on this

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Yes, you can reach 10% MC even if you started with green wood. It would just take longer. Dry it slow and use your moisture meter. I have dried from green in about 6 weeks using this method. I would recommend you add 1 1/2" pink insulation board cut to friction fit between the 2x4 structure. This greatly improves heat retention.

[@MrEffectual]

@@logstolumbernow2011 Hey Alan, thanks for the quick response. So my setup is as follows: I have a layer of attic foil radiant barrier on the inside as the first layer, followed by a 2" thick poly foam board. All of the edges are sealed by using hvac aluminum tape. My final outside layer will either be plastic like you used or a the same plastic used for wrapping homes. Will that be sufficient, or do you think I still need the pink board?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

@@MrEffectual I think you have it covered. What I call pink board is probably the same as your poly board.

[@davidfink9525]

Is the 130 degrees enough to kill the insects?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Here is the answer to a similar previous question: Yes. I believe this will kill any bugs. My experience and the research I have read says that getting the wood to an core temperature of 130 degrees for 24 hours, after the wood has reached at least 8 percent moisture content, will kill pests, their eggs and fungi that effect wood. The combination of low moisture and high temp will do the trick. The length of time it will take for the core temp to rise to this level will be dependent on the lumber thickness. However, US regulations for international Trade requires heating wood to a minimum core temperature of 133 degrees. Be sure to check your MC using a moisture meter. Don't guess.

[@devindascher]

Hey L2L, Thanks for sharing your design. I've got some beautiful 2-3"thick x 30-40" wide cherry slabs that have been stickered in a garage for a few years. I noticed powder post beetles got into it, and I've been mulling how to heat it for pest control. At this point I'm not concerned about moisture; I just want to kill the bugs and larvae. Based on your design, lets say I made a stack that maxed out the inside space of your kiln--Do you think it would work? What would I have to do different? Is there any way to test the wood for internal temp? Maybe bury a remote read probe inside a piece, like the one I used for the turkey a month ago. Is there any way to know for sure you killed all the bugs? Look forward to hearing from you. Cordially Devin, the relocated Yankee in Raleigh, NC

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I would treat the lumber with a borate based product such as Tim-bor or Boracare. If you raise the core temp of the wood to 150 deg and hold it there for 24 hrs, you should kill any pests. The wood should be below 20 percent MC before you sterilize it. Otherwise you may cause more problems. Yes you can use a bar-b-q temp probe in the center of your stack but that may not tell you the core temp of the wood. You will need a heat source and a fan. A space heater may not work due to safety over temp switches.

[@devindascher]

@@logstolumbernow2011 I considered boracare; I used on a log cabin that had some ppbeetles. My understanding, which may or may not be correct is that it doesn't penetrate very deeply and it's effectiveness occurs when the critters exit the wood and cross the toxic zone. I was also concerned about the treated wood which I would then have to plane and sand; I supppose certain finishes would ultimately seal in any residual pesticide...on a dinner table, for example. I'll check the mc and run it as a kiln first if needs be; I'm sure it's below 20%; I think I recall 15% or so....I have a friend with a seldom used wood fired kiln in a shipping container. He has a wood mizer and plenty of stacks of lumber that probably have a healthy PPbeetle population going. Pretty hard to avoid I reckon. Re: the turkey thermometer--I was thinking about burying into the wood. Are you still milling in northern alabama?

[@devindascher]

I mentioned my friend who seldom uses his kiln because I'll ask him if I could run it in that one for a fee; I was worried about bringing beetled wood on his lot but i recalled there are stacks of all sorts of wood there....which might already host some bugs.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Yes, I am still milling in north Alabama, at least for a few more years I hope.@@devindascher

[@robertriggers5216]

You could piped in your heating from your heater that way the heater would have been on the outside heat lamps good cause a hotspot it would be much safer that way you if your heater fails you do not have a fire inside all that plastic

[@boyetta1]

Yes, having an external heater could be incorporated. I wanted to keep it simple and compact. Safety is always a concern. I'll look into designing an external heat source next time I build the kiln. Thanks for your input.

[@robertriggers5216]

@@boyetta1 still very good work simple fast

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks

[@lindalealphamale]

Dude knows how to party

[@unbrokenground5694]

That was my first thought! A little too much personality if you ask me. He should tone it down a notch!

[@michaeleck6320]

How thick is the foamboard you used?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

In the video I use 3/4" foil sided styrofoam. I have since added 1 1/2" pink rigid foam board cut to friction fit between the 2x4s then wrap with the styrofoam. The added insulation gives me better temperature control.

[@michaeleck6320]

@@logstolumbernow2011 Thank you

[@bobabooey8367]

Almost easier on the electric bill to buy it from the store already processed

[@logstolumbernow2011]

I did not calculate the electricity cost but I cut the tree on my land, milled it with my sawmill, dried it in my kiln then built a table for my house. The sentimental value is immeasurable.

[@bobabooey8367]

@@logstolumbernow2011 I hear ya..Thanks

[@David-fv7zg]

Bob Abooey This is simply not true. He is likely preparing this lumber for less that $1.00 a board foot. Try buying kiln dried hardwood lumber for anything close to 4 times that price.

[@theanarcho-luthierist2882]

for regular stuff that CAN be bought at the lumber yard - im interested in chinaberry wood (melia azederach) - its a relative of mahogany, can be used as a substitute for teak, the wood contains neem oil so it is insect resistant, it is an invasive nuisance in the US southeast, and also flourishes in its native southeast asia, so its not under any endangered species restrictions - but no one sells it (not actually true i bought a small quantity from a place called greenwood milling in san antonio, but they dont usually stock it) i build guitars, and my chinaberry guitars ring like bells, but if i want to keep using chinaberry, it looks like im gonna have to go into the sawmill and kiln business for myself...

[@pallmall5495]

@@David-fv7zg Yes I was looking at oak lumber at Lowes one day.A 10 foot oak 1x10 was almost $50,and some were even split on the ends.

[@markcheech5496]

You must have some electric bill

[@logstolumbernow2011]

As I detailed in a reply about a year ago to a question, the electricity costs were estimated to be about $25 for the period that the kiln was in operation.

[@nraymondg]

Hello how can I build my own kill

[@mattsentner9538]

Bueller! Bueller!

[@markbrady7406]

if terminator needs a new voice over.......

[@Automaticrepairco]

The dehumidifier should be enough heat by itself.

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Yes, while the dehumidifier was running, the heat source shut off. Between cycles of the dehumidifier, the heat source would keep the temp at the set point.

[@kevinflanagan5537]

After the wood sits for a year? Defeats the purpose...

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Air drying wood will not get the moisture content to the goal of 6-8%. In the climate in my local area, a MC of 12% is about the best I can get air drying. I use my kiln to finish the drying process and sterilize the wood. I have dried wood from green but it takes 8 weeks or so.

[@dp91c]

I must be in a similar area, I can't seem to get it below about 11% where I am, in South East Tennessee. Makes sense now, thank you!

[@yessir6325]

@@logstolumbernow2011 Im guessing air drying will leave potential for bugs to be still in the boards?

[@logstolumbernow2011]

@@yessir6325 Yes. If the wood has been infected with wood beatles, they could remain dormant until the wood goes inside and warms up. Not all wood has insects but it is really disappointing to find a little pile of sawdust under your new farmhouse table.

[@TheBignick243]

What box are you using for temp control and humity control? Did you get it on Amazon?

[@dichodichov6045]

Guy speak like he's on exam 😂, chill man , you're at your own place

[@judmcfeters9054]

😴 💤

[@jaisrobins1545]

How not to do a video blog , don’t read from a sheet of paper so slowly . End result great idea 💡 good method .

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks

[@cwsteen]

Yup...Jai has it figured out, just take a look at all his content and use that for motivation.

[@jaisrobins1545]

@@cwsteen wise words . You could learn a lot

[@OriginalJramion]

You should try increasing the speed of the video if dialogue is too slow for you. I do that on damn near every video I watch....sometimes even music videos. If I speed up the video to 2X, I only spent half the time watching and still got all the information. The gentleman gave all relevant information in the construction of his kiln, and the issues he had along the way and what he did to correct them.

[@Catechuman23]

Informative, thank you. Maybe work on being less robotic and scripted 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@logstolumbernow2011]

Thanks for constructive comments. I'll work on being more natural in future posts.

[@scrotiemcboogerballs4967]

Do you think you might be the most boring man on earth?

[@Ervine4]

Its informational not some ADHD riddled streamer content.

[@jeremytolbert9633]

This man is doing something useful, and then sharing the information free of charge. I think the most boring thing on earth would be listening to Scrotie McBoogerBalls enumerate his contributions to society because it would be complete silence.

[@MrWizards1974]

He is reading from a script and I'm glad he is. Its all straight and to the point. I would rather watch his monotone video then one with a bunch of pointless flashy B.S.

[@scrotiemcboogerballs4967]

@@jeremytolbert9633 that’s something a burning person would say.