What Is the Moisture of Lumber After Kiln Dried??

[@robk1310]

“Now I basically am going to go around sticking this thing in everything.” 🤣🤣🤣 You are funny. I love it.

[@DogSpeak]

Those were my first words

[@WTFAmerica-wake-up]

Hello Emerald, I’ve worked with my father for about 40 years and I realized about 10 years ago that he knows things. Pay attention to his knowledge and learn as much as you can, cause the time will fly fast. Keep safe.

[@lunddahl]

Hey Emerald and the rest of the family Your videos and this channel is so perfectly imperfect, is is some of the best authentic storytelling i have seen in a long time. I also very much like that you bring values before flashy, i think this is key to why i'm subscribed.

[@carlosmontana8840]

Exactly, there was a Neiman Marcus advertisement while I was waiting for the video to start, what a relief to see a real beautiful person as soon as the video started.

[@onkelnb]

The meter has the information written in english and german on the back. That made me smile. Greetings from Germany.

[@rollsroyce7325]

Thank you Emerald for the explanations 👏👏👏👏👸❤️❤️❤️❤️ And, to Jade, for filming 🎬🎥👸🏻👌❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@RJCongdonCarpentry]

I have a small dehumidification kiln I use at my dads mill. I recommend and use a Delmhorst j 2000 moisture meter with the slide hammer. It has species and temperature correction build in. You need to get to correct depth to get a accurate measurement. So a 1" board you need to penetrate the side 1/2" a 2" board you need to penetrate 1". Check ebay or marketplace because it is kind pricey.

[@sjfarish]

God bless you and your family , your parents have taught you well.

[@davereynolds6145]

There is a farmer in England that does a video every day "ollyblogs", at the end of the day always have to see what he's been up to, so if you do the same can say "what's the girls been up to!" Much respect for your family!

[@diesel46809]

I've been doing firewood for a long time and I always use a moisturizer meter. I have alot of customer's that relies on my dry wood throughout the year. I always enjoyed going to a person who sells firewood and says it is season wood and look very confused and nervous when I pull out my meter to see if the wood really is dry. You can see the person getting nervous when you know that they know they lied about it. Great video. Keep up the great work

[@davepenn9181]

If the ends of the pieces have cracks big enough to easily stick a credit card in, it's seasoned. If not, put the credit card back in your wallet and drive off. That's accurate enough for firewood.

[@RichardSmith-wr6go]

The moisture content can also have a surprisingly big impact on the weight of the wood, especially with softwoods.

[@KennyInVegas]

I used to carry 12, 2x4 14'ers...All wired into a big bundle. When the bunk of 14 footers first got delivered they were probably 15% to 20% heavier than 1 month later from drying outside in Vegas' heat

[@richardlee2488]

The moisture content is strangely based upon the weight which ever way its calculated. Perhaps its the value of one litre is one kilogram of pure water? But given the variables scientists use to justify their wages it must be way more exact. 🙄

[@richardlee2488]

@@KennyInVegas you need to see what the emc is for where you live. I guess 4% is ideal. No good if you buy from somewhere that says 11% is acceptable.

[@oczhaal]

I love the way Emerald talks, it's really clear and right on point!

[@dsta9996]

Great job Emerald and crew!!

[@michaelguerin56]

Good video, ladies. Keep up the good work. We use a hammer type moisture meter on our building sites, as do the Council Building Inspectors. We calibrate the meter every time we take it out of its case and we always put the probes into the face of the timber. Timber can absorb moisture up to a hundred times (100x) faster through the end grain than through the face and it always dries more quickly when stood vertically or near vertically. Freshly milled timber should, of course, be stacked horizontally and ‘filleted’, as we say here in NZ🇳🇿 (or ‘stickered’ as they say in Lumber Capital territory). Piece of trivia: if you want your freshly excavated piece of ‘swamp’ kauri to dry without cracking, you need to stand it vertically. I suspect that this may hold true for other ‘centuries old’ trees extracted from swamps.

[@JBarbarosa]

God bless you all. Good people. Salt of the Earth. I'd love to shake your mom and dad's hands and thank them for raising authentic kids. Be wise girls. Guard your hearts.

[@masterflashy]

Noticed the moisture meter being made in England, used in America and having German text on it as well - a small world ;) - Nice video, quiet interesting with the varying moisture

[@zenjamin6262]

LUMBER CAPITOL LOG YARD WORLD WIDE... love this channel this girl could be a sooper model but chooses to do real work instead ! Keeping America great!

[@m.valdivia8048]

*super

[@zenjamin6262]

@@m.valdivia8048 out here in Minnesota its soooooper

[@slingblade1313]

OBVIOUSLY you have the best videos on KZbin

[@djessary8088]

I loved both versions! You both are great at what you do. Keep it up please. And remember, mistakes happen, it's what makes us human lol

[@chipwhitely1490]

Hope your elbow heals nicely. Thank you for another informative well thought out video.

[@davidkuehl8713]

I am also a wood turner and a while back I got into some wood that as I was turning it, it was throwing water at me. Worked out kind of neat because my goal was to make a few hollow wood balls. They catch a lot of attention. Enjoy the videos for sure.

[@gregwitkamp5583]

Try measuring on the surface in a few different areas

[@myoutdoorlife3833]

I really like that solar kiln! Great idea!

[@slingblade1313]

you guys' are great real people

[@andrzejsawczuk5069]

You are like a good dream...Shine like a diamond. Regards from Poland.

[@garrysgarage1958]

Great information on lumber moisture!

[@wayneweis653]

I never created a KZbin video. I did watch the first edition. Excellent correction.

[@raymondsebastian6784]

Girl your a STAR!

[@donwilliams169]

You know what you are talking about.very well done I think the information is valuable and I believe you are doing well to get it out there.gooddeal

[@JoJo-mp5dr]

I really enjoy your videos ! I also run a small sawmill business with an LT 40 in Germany. If you want to measure the moisture content of wood correctly, then you must not do it on the end grain. The end grain dries significantly faster than the rest of the wood because the wood fibers are exposed there. Keep up the great work :D

[@mattnelson4387]

Cool! Maybe consider sealing the ends of the hardwood(I use wood glue) to slow the drying of the ends vs the middle and hence decreasing cracks!

[@jameshogue1639]

That is so cool info. Love it!

[@thomashightower1660]

I just finished building my drying barn for my sawmill!

[@crownlands7246]

Love your solar kiln, such a nice way to go about. Good thing with moist skin in the Summer, well, in general too prbl, come to think of it, my bad 🤭🤗👍☀️🌱

[@rhound50]

Just an FYI the end grain of wood drys faster than the rest of the wood, to get a more accurate moisture content you need to check the middle of the wood.

[@thomasnourse7506]

Good episode! Wasn’t sure what to expect from the solar kiln but looks pretty successful.

[@richardlee2488]

The most successful solar kilns heat water in a buffer tank which is used on demand by computer control. You want to create the optimum drying at a constant rate. Ideal temp and humidity at the optimum rate. It's that simple!!!!!!! Every thing else is oooops.

[@patrickshull4462]

When you use pin moisture meters you need to take readings in several locations along the board, but never on the end of the board. You can get a dry reading at the end within days but three inches in it can be 60% or more. To get an accurate final reading after checking surface wood you will want to take a board from the center of your stack, cut it at least a foot in with a very sharp circular saw, then push the probes into the center of the fresh cut wood. If your meter is calibrated and you've taken into account species and lumber temperature you will have a good reading. As for your hemlock logs, they are between 95% and 115% MC. And my educated guess on your walnut would be around 18% to 25% MC. Keep up the good work and be safe.

[@robertgrey5993]

Definitely not the end of a board.

[@jasonneugebauer5310]

Thanks for the awesome videos. I have been operating a solar kiln for four years with good success. I have dried about 20K board feet in that time. Be very careful if you ad a fan. If you do not use baffles to ensure that the whole stack gets even air flow you will likely warp/ruin the entire load (I know from personal experience). Baffles direcing air through the stack will dry the lumber four times faster. Having no fan or a fan that just blows the hot air from the ceiling down but away from the stack is best if you do not use baffles. Without baffles the stack will slowly pull air through on its own as the moisture evaporates and cools the air, causing the moist air to sink. The stack will not dry equally, but as .ong as you have pained the ends of the boards well the lumber will turn out fine. Another recommendation is never leave your boards in direct sunlight because they will crack. Set black plastic covering the top of the stack and maby the ends of the stack also to get best results. If you have any questions send me a message and I can give advice. It takes a long time and a lot of waisted effort to figure it all out on your own.

[@dimmacommunication]

Baffles like you see in the online drawings ?

[@jasonneugebauer5310]

@@dimmacommunication my set up is the Virginia Tec solar kiln, with modifications. I do not see a good picture of the baffle in the pdf, so I will try to explain it. If you want I can send pics. I have the stack centered in the middle if my kiln with about one foot of space on all sides and about two feet of space on top of the stacked and stickered wood. I only have 1.5 inches of space under the stack, but you can put blocks under the stack if you need to get a fork lift under, but you have to restrict the air flow under the stack so it is just about twice the space of a single sticker. (Alternat setup description at bottom of this comment) In the top of my kiln 1.5 feet from the back wall, I have a wall from end to end hanging down from the roof about 2.5 feet with three evenly spaced round holes that have 24 inch metal fans mounted snug (cheap ones work great as long as they are metal $80 Lowe's/Home Depot) From the bottom of this hanging wall I have 6 mil black plastic stapled from end to end (with a couple extra feet hanging at both ends), more staples is better, about every 4 inches. The plastic hangs down far enough to touch at the top-back of the stack and extend forward to the top-forward of the stack, so it separates the air in the back of the kiln from the air in the front of the kiln. Also if you're plastic is to long in the front you just fold it back over the top before you put the blocks on. Then I place about 20 solid cement blocks onto the top of the plastic across the top of the load to hold the plastic down when I turn the fans on. Once the plastic is held down to the top of the stack, I staple the side edges if the plastic to the side walls down to the level of the top of the load and use waded up old sheet plastic and extra stickers to seal both ends of the load to the wall you want at least a foot of bulky stuff there so the air doesn't escape around the ends of the load. All air must flow evenly through the stack from the front to the back or the back to the front depending on which way the fans face (this is the most important part of the whole setup your wood will be wrecked if the airflow is not fairly even). All boards must have airflow between the stickers. A cople more super important thing are: 1. The surface the stack is setting on MUST BE perfectly level because your boards will only be as flat as that surface at best. 2. All stickers must be placed in vertical lines. If there is a sticker that is off by a couple inches to the side all boards above that sticker will sag by 3/4 inch or more. For most hardwood stickers should be placed every 12-18 inches. The more space between stickers the more the boards will sag between the stickers, especially when the boards are wet and/or being heated in a kiln. I recommend stickers that are 4-5 feet long and 1.25X .75 inches (1"X1.5)if purchased) wide for the stack. I cut my own on my WM LT35Hydraulic, slightly over thick and plain down on one side to .75 to get even thickness. Also, short stickers 12-18 inches are great for proving up the ends of short boards in your stack. Also short stickers are great to use if you cut a log into lumber or slabs and want to sticker in a single wide stack to air dry. Most hard wood will mold if sawn and left stacked without stickers for more than a week or two. Alternative setup: Large kilns have a box with the three 24 inch fans setting on the floor. From that box is 6 mill plastic extending from sides an top of the box to cover the sides and top of the load allowing the fans to blow the air through the stack. Be sure to have a good seal so the air only blows through the gaps in the stickers. (BE VERY CAREFUL WILL THIS SETUP IF THE FANS DONT BLOW PERFECTLY EVEN ACROSS THE LOAD THE WOOD WILL WARP.) It might even be a good idea to have the fans blow down into the box then out towards the wood to ensure even air distribution. If you have any questions you can text me and I can send pics of my set up. (Seven seven five) 388-2524 Thanks again for the videos it's great to see other people's opinions, that's how I lern what works best.

[@richardlee2488]

@@jasonneugebauer5310 it's worth adding weights to the top of the stack to prevent a lot of the distortion. I have run a number of commercial kilns for years and there is a lot of science in controlling how to remove moisture safely including adding moisture during the final cooling and equilising stage.

[@jasonneugebauer5310]

@@richardlee2488 Thanks for the reminder, I should have mentioned adding weight which is very important. I would definitely add a bunch of cement weight to the top of the stack in my kiln if I was loading with a fork lift, but I am hand loading the kiln and my kiln has limited space. I add beams that have air dried for 2-3 years to the top of my load, but under the baffle plastic to help weight the boards and help minimize warping. If the beams warp I can always flatten them on the sawmill and still have a good amount of wood in the beam. But if a 4 quarter board warps in the kiln all I will end up with is expensive firewood. Each sawmill and kiln operator will have to plan on how to set up all of the crucial aspects of the kiln and the load. I wish I knew more when I started drying lumber, knowledge is power. Mostly I commented on the video because I like the videos on this channel and want to see them succeed. It looked like they are just getting into kiln drying lumber, and from personal experience there is a lot of details that are critical to get good results. I am not an expert but I get good results.

[@jasonneugebauer5310]

@@richardlee2488 So far I have not been heating my lumber above 130F at the end of the cycle so adding moisture has not been unnecessary. It would be great to get the load up to temperature and sterilize the lumber. Using a solar kiln I depend on the effects of glassed area & sunlight, the mass of the wood, the water in the wood, and the insulation of the kiln to regulate my temperature. Provided I have enough wood in the kiln to keep it from drying to fast and developing defects. The temperature in the kiln will increase over several days or a fiew weeks as the wood dries. Once the max temperature has stabilized for 3-4 days I go in and test the moisture with a Wagner Meters Orion 950 moisture meter (my kiln max temperature is 125-135 degrees F depending on time of year). Then if boards in different areas of the load (top, middle, bottom, left, middle, right have a consistent moisture of 6-8% the load is ready to come out, but a few more days will not damage the wood. No extra water needs to be added at the end with my solar kiln. Sometimes my wood dries too fast near the beginning of the drying process with freshly sawn boards, just after the boards are no longer damp to the touch. I know the boards are drying to fast because they get tiny cracks on the surface typically near the ends of the boards. The ends of the boards may also start to shrink and crack if not sealed with wax, paint, or glue. Also, the lumber may begin to warp at this time. When the wood dries to fast I need to add more wood or dump 5-10 gallons of water spread around in the kiln. I continue to check daily and verify that the tiny cracks in the wood have disappeared if not I add more water. The cracks in the ends of the boards are more permanent, so drying too fast is bad. Once all the moisture in the cells is gone, the wood dries slower and cracks/ warps less. At th end of the drying process, I unload the kiln and immediately take the wood into my climate controlled shop 65F/40%relative humidity and stack it. I let the wood set for 3 days to cool and settle before using and have no issues with additional warping as long as it's in the shop. If the wood gets wet or it is left outside it will continue to warp some until the woods moisture level is equal to its environment. A metal building or barn atic that holds in the heat can be used to store kiln dried lumber as long as it is very dry in the building.

[@patrickd2013]

Congrats on 40k subscribers!

[@jasonneugebauer5310]

have been operating a solar kiln for four years with good success. I have dried about 20K board feet in that time. Be very careful if you ad a fan. If you do not use baffles to ensure that the whole stack gets even air flow you will likely warp/ruin the entire load (I know from personal experience). Baffles direcing air through the stack will dry the lumber four times faster. Having no fan or a fan that just blows the hot air from the ceiling down but away from the stack is best if you do not use baffles. Without baffles the stack will slowly pull air through on its own as the moisture evaporates and cools the air, causing the moist air to sink. The stack will not dry equally, but as .ong as you have pained the ends of the boards well the lumber will turn out fine. Another recommendation is never leave your boards in direct sunlight because they will crack. Set black plastic covering the top of the stack and maby the ends of the stack also to get best results. If you have any questions send me a message and I can give advice. It takes a long time and a lot of waisted effort to figure it all out on your own. Good luck with the kiln. It is great to see small businesses getting stuff done and creating value in the age of the great resignation.

[@projectbumblejeep4190]

Don't do IG but I watch all your videos here. God bless and stay well.

[@wayneweis653]

IG ?

[@richardlee2488]

You need to understand the whole timber drying process to get it right. The protimeter is an extremely good meter but it has limits. You need a hammer probe to read the moisture in the middle of the piece ideally a meter or more from the end of the piece. You should also measure across the grain. You will also need to make an allowance for the temperature as well as checking if the species is in group A which the meter reads or if a further allowance is required. You will also want to know the equilibrium moisture content required in your area as this is the target. If you over dry you can add moisture but it makes it machine badly and this is irreversible even if moisture is added. The use of a meter is also seen as a guide as the mineral contents of timber can vary from region to region. The Truely accurate test is the oven test which is pretty simple but takes a little time. You also need to make sure that you use the correct calculations for percentage of the moisture on either the wet or the dry basis. Kiln drying is very easy with a good kiln. Destroying timber is even easier with anything else and the cost of a lost load can be more than a high end kiln brand new.

[@Scott_Atlanta]

Took quite a bit of time to mansplain that. Impressive!

[@richardlee2488]

@@Scott_Atlanta so glad I kept it brief 🤪.

[@davepenn9181]

@@Scott_Atlanta That's not mansplaining. He's got sound knowledge about seasoning wood, and he's calling attention to the oversimplifications and assumptions in the video. If a woman claims that (2 + 3) >= 0 and a person who can write their name in a snowbank points out that 2 + 3 = 5, it's not mansplaining; it's called arithmetic.

[@Scott_Atlanta]

@@davepenn9181 No doubt you have impressed the young teen ladies. Pat yourself on the back (but the answer is still no)

[@rickfritschler3865]

Hi Emerald, if I had daughters I would want them to be like you, Jade and Sammy. Respect to your Dad and Mom! After the Marine Corps I helped finance college with a firewood business. One question, I see horizontal separation with stickers but no vertical separation in lumber piles. Why no vertical spacing to facilitate air flow?

[@habazlambazazathe6th989]

if she was you daughter,I would want to be your son in law so bad! so bad

[@RichardThompson-gc1cf]

Love your videos keep them coming

[@johnmoyer5515]

My shelter logic from tsc heats up to at least 120° great for drying it seems

[@billyshumate853]

Great video Emerald. Take care and I'll see you on your next video.

[@Rickimusic]

Thanks Jade. xo

[@mikemcauliffe3454]

Well done

[@cisco5400]

Well done, great video! 😊

[@TheMonkdad]

Thanks. I’ve wondered about how you dry your lumber. I’m also interested if you surface any lumber or if it’s all roughsawn.

[@ROESPLETZ]

Jeez! Bright and early unless you set the time to upload. Haha. You youngsters are absolutely awesome and I’m sure your parents are very proud of you!!

[@radioflyer9490]

I dried 2500 board feet of ash and poplar down to 5% in less than a month. I used two household dehumidifiers in a sealed insulated building. The outside air temperature got down to-37 c for part of the time. Inside temperature was 22 c. The boards are 1 inch thick. Your system would definitely be cheaper if you have the time 😀

[@rockyreynolds4027]

Nothing hotter than a red head in the lumber yard that has been in the kiln

[@cmennare]

It seems that the position of the lumber inside of the log will make a difference also. Such as a 2x4 close to the sap ring should have more moisture than a 2x4 cut from the heartwood. At least that is how I think it would be, I may be wrong.

[@petebusch9069]

Emerald is the needle in the haystack and I mean that in a very respectable way.

[@buckchamp9011]

Enjoy your videos 👍🏼❤️🇺🇸

[@Lone-Wolf-66]

Congrats on your awesome channel content 🙌

[@jimsmirh2406]

What a cool little lady you are Emerald.

[@BeerStein33]

Interesting. Thx. 💓

[@stevenhartley7659]

Solar panel to power the fans, right.

[@dennishinkle5010]

Excellent👍

[@jamesbrown-xz3hv]

why would you check the moisture at the end and not the middle of the board?

[@kwinterburn]

hope the KZbin thing is working for you, you deserve every success just keep focus your grandfather reminds me so much of me, just remember it's your channel not the critics,spiteful and vaccuous comments are to be expected just ignore smile and switch into Walton's mode " be cheerful and tolerant of the stupids", explain carefully what's going on as they probably cannot tie their own shoelaces never mind do what you young ladies are doing ,

[@danielevans9118]

She's talking about how the phrase "moist wood" sounded lol

[@MarioHachemer]

I think I haven't heard the word "moist" in a single video this often 😅 Great content!

[@donroo736]

Even got me

[@calvinsmart3471]

Mario,don't watch any videos on beavers or snot will come out of your nose 😜 Cal in Canada

[@TheAgentAssassin]

My old coworker from my last job had a near phobia of the word "moist". I'm going to send him this video and see his reply.

[@twobears1224]

He needed to see the unfixed video..haha

[@jeffsmith2070]

My great niece has the same “moist “ phobia, at Easter diner I mentioned “moist” throughout the dinner with great eloquence!

[@justin_time]

Haha, now all I can imagine is Emerald running around and testing every thing at the log yard like a cartoon character popping up everywhere in a tv show. New sign: “All customers must be poked before entering the log yard. You must be sufficiently hydrated before purchasing any boards!”

[@jbbrown7907]

A planer would be. Ice instead of the belt sander. I hope you show us the finished product.

[@rickpatrilla7621]

Do any of the woods you cut have the possibility of being "over dried" ? Splintering I guess ?

[@trevorwinter5071]

A circulating fan would definitely improve the performance of the kiln and the quality of the wood

[@dimmacommunication]

I've seen nice drawings of Solar kilns , just a small solar panel with no switch

[@justin_time]

No electricity at the log yard yet

[@richardlee2488]

Fans are essential if you need to prevent Mold or mildew. Especially important with white woods but beech and sweet chestnut will develop sticker staining unless you are extremely careful. A humidistat is also very important to control drying rate.

[@cicad2007]

Em, thanks for a great video. I never saw a moisture meter before or knew how to use one. Btw, what happened to your elbow? I hope it's ok. 🙂

[@markgalicic7788]

Hi , look up Virginia tech's solar kiln for a good set of plans and all free.

[@trickn2819]

What's with all the injuries? A few videos ago I saw a bandage on your lower torso and today I see one on your elbow? I was wondering the other day, with all the long hair amongst your sisters has there ever been an "incident" with all that machinery? Keep up the good work, You ALWAYS be YOU because there is is only one!

[@leonardrobichaud5919]

Yes, the long hair scares me too!

[@johngrover9191]

I was wondering do you guys check moisture level on all the wood you sell or just stuff that was in kiln? BTW I really enjoy your channel.

[@FlamingBasketballClub]

Hi Emerald. KZbin recommended me this video. Looking gorgeous.

[@richardsavell9185]

Right Elbow... What did you do...?

[@TheKevinlamarr]

I am curious what if the wood is below 10% WC, is that would still useable? Say you wanted to use pine logs that came out of the kiln with that % could you use them to build a cabin?

[@dimmacommunication]

Wich kind of climate do you have there ? Are solar kilns useful in hot climate as well ?

[@scootinthru]

Em, what did you do to your elbow? BTW - I have the very same moisture meter that you guys use.

[@charlesb4267]

Emerald, I have a silly test you can do with that moisture tester ( it may be risky, I don't know ! ), between you, Jade and Sammy pick straws or maybe its three lengths of splintered wood bits, and the shortest splinter has to try the moisture meter on the tip of their tongue, like those people that test the small 9 volt battery with their tongue to see if it still has any power. I assume it can't be too dangerous being that you put it on your moist arm. My guess is that Sammy will be the brave one even if she didn't pick the shortest piece of wood. I am an extremely bad influence at times LOL.

[@gilbertdelgado6703]

Where do you store your kiln dried lumber to prevent it from absorbing moisture once again? What happened to your elbow?

[@jasonglisson1690]

She's having fun with her new toy

[@brucearney9536]

I can tell you been working in the kitchen when not milling !

[@floridaray3380]

Most beautiful lumber I have ever seen 😘

[@johnmoyer5515]

Slide hammer meter is best longer probes, $500.00 approx

[@jamesrussell6870]

Um... You need to probe flat grain, closer to center... End grain can be near dry going in to kiln.

[@ram1362]

Emerald is so beautiful. Love how the whole family works together 👍👍

[@joeynelson5084]

You need to check the moisture in the middle of the board the end will give wrong reads

[@peterofoz]

A wood worker will need to let that wood sit in the shop for a few week and normalize to the local humidity or it will expand and split once the project is built. If the wood dries too fast you can get case hardening where the outside surfaces are dry and shrink and the center of the wood is moister. It does weird things when you start ripping and releasing the pressure on the fibers.

[@richardlee2488]

Far worse is honeycomb. The outer faces may not show any degrade but once you begin to plane it the splitting hidden inside appears.

[@GibClark]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻building a solar kiln now

[@keithienmason4643]

Why does wood gets wet to grow

[@peebee143]

According to the label on the back of the moisture meter it was made in Marlow, which is a small town in the Thames Valley around 20 miles West of London. Nice area to live in, you would need to have plenty of money to live in Marlow.

[@williamburke1882]

You know you could probably get some college credit for these videos and the work that you do. I know that you are in Penn. but here in NY the Cornell Cooperative Extension is someone I would contact. I have a friend that works for BOCES here and he talks about people getting credits this way I mean you are already doing the work you might as well take all the credit you can.

[@MrSin-ix4or]

I like your show....peace

[@chuckf3102]

Your red hair is fantastic, I like when you smile. Looks like you could do a coffee sponsor, call them, might pay well.

[@planetvance]

1:21 That's great. Great top though.

[@nicobie]

You need to test on the middle of the board, not on the ends. The ends dry out quickest.

[@paulc.4211]

The sharp pointy things are called probes

[@keithienmason4643]

You said what is the moisture of lumber sitting dry lumber

[@woohu2u2]

The high moisture reading on the fresh cut lumber could be residual moisture from the saw water.

[@slingblade1313]

please interview sammy and Mrs. boss

[@GamePlayStreaming]

I kept all my wood outside to collect as much moisture as possible there is nothing worse then trying to build a crate and the wood just explodes when shooting them with nail gun.