Simple, over looked tips and tricks to " NOT " wreck your project - D.I.Y. Auto Restoration

[@bradsrestorations1085]

Thank you for the lesson! I want to believe that folks make these mistakes because they don't know any better. I hope it's not just taking shortcuts. Build on Brother.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

To all of my D.I.Y. men and women, supporters, followers, and subscribers THANK YOU !!!

[@thebull9212]

The details matter brother!! Great video

[@DeniseKuhn-g6n]

Robert you are a true Artisan , a great teacher, and you care about your craft! Cheers!!!!!

[@genestanco6558]

Awesome videos . Thankyou. Is there a lubricant that can be applied to a newly welded, sanded metal that would keep area from rusting?

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@genestanco6558 great question, I would just use an sandable primer or an epoxy primer

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@DeniseKuhn-g6n thank you for the awesome compliment Sir !!!

[@rickjackson3414]

It’s all the lil stuff that takes time, it’s the stuff that really matters…..details! Great video!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

And the thing is usually the distance between okay and really nice isn't that far.....

[@lemontier]

Seeing the welds on the bracing tubes tells you something about the quality of the work done at that shop.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Yep....

[@robertoferrari5397]

..they do suck

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@robertoferrari5397 Thanks for the comment !

[@sgtstop]

Just subbed a few days ago... Ive been binge watching ALL your content, and Ill just say that you've ALREADY saved me work, saved me headaches, and DEFINITELY saved me Money!!! Keep doing your thing!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

That's awesome, glad to hear I'm helping, thanks for watching!

[@jeezusjr]

This is the cleanest body shop I have ever seen. Nice work!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir !!!

[@MichaelAllan01]

I thought the exact same thing! A commercial shop as clean as your home garage? No way! 😅

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@MichaelAllan01 Thanks !

[@perezm714]

Great tips and tricks for real attention to detail.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Hope some of the tips helped, thanks !

[@wirefeed3419]

Really excellent information. I was shaking my head at the full welded bracing but laughed out loud seeing the hand prints. It is definitely the little details that make the difference.

[@farmerbrown3768]

Little things make a big difference!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Yes Sir !

[@jasonweishaupt1828]

My metal is sterile clean before PPG DP40 gets mixed. And it’s getting hosed with epoxy right after the final clean.

[@abpsd73]

I'll be watching this build. I helped a friend restore his 64 hardtop.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Awesome !

[@michiganracer1181]

Looking forward to seeing work on these cars!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@michiganracer1181 Yes Sir !

[@malcolmyoung7866]

Just passing through from Scotland… Decided to hang around and subbed

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Awesome ! Greetings from America, thanks for the sub and welcome to my channel.

[@abcabc-xm4um]

Thank you. I appreciate your professionalism and attention to the important details of which we diyers may not be aware.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thanks ! That's what it's all about passing on the knowledge

[@sheldonkepley4585]

you know, im not a body man, thats why im watching your video.. when i seen the door braces my thought was exactly what you descibed a few seconds later in the video. this is why i like to learn and do it myself. instead of paying someone else to do the mistakes i want to avoid! thank you for all your advice!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Well done, doing your own work !!

[@timwest9300]

I love you brother , you are a great inspiration to dyers that really don't understand metal , please don't ever stop giving your well needed professional information to all of us , God bless you and your family sir

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@timwest9300 that's an awesome compliment it makes me feel great thank you !!! That's what my channel is about passing on my experience and skill to the people working at home on their own projects that maybe can't afford to take them to a restoration shop hey that stuff's really expensive I remember when I didn't have anything and no one to show me anything.....

[@rickm7209]

Best video by GF so far. Now if we can only get him to ride a Moto Guzzi instead of a Harley !

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Your getting me a Moto Guzzi for Christmas !!!!

[@billk5727]

Excellent tips and advice! No matter where someone sends their project for stripping, blasting, ect, the job is only as good as the guy that did it! Bill

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@billk5727 words of wisdom for sure !

[@SuperchiefApache]

This is the only channel I follow anymore. I just picked up some more good information tonight for my restoration of my 1959 panel truck.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Nice !! Thanks for all of the support !

[@mrgreezy1]

As the 64 impala convertible is my dream car that I want to build my eyes will be glued !!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

It's going to be a fun one I'm glad to have you along, thanks !!!

[@mrgreezy1]

@@guzzifabrication3448 I’ve been watching since before the 64 hard top you worked on !!! I love the content !!! Just wish the videos were way longer and more often !!! Love goes out !!!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@mrgreezy1 Thank you Sir !!!

[@kobra_style]

Thanks for the tips! I need to have my 61 convertible media blasted sometime next year before paint and body work so I will make sure this is done correctly. I am relieved for that owner that he found your shop. Its more good content for us and these cars deserve to be saved the right way.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

It's the little things that add up big !

[@jasoncardoza6375]

I’m a media blasting business ( Sandhollow mobile media) and the majority of my customers want what was done to that impala. They don’t tear it down all the way and it’s usually a 80% resto job being done. Allow me to explain from my experience being a blaster - the media I use is glass. It’s the softer,cheaper alternative to removing everything. Walnut is expensive but I recommend it and they can’t afford it. It takes a lot longer to blast as well driving up the cost further. Blasting CAN remove seam sealer and adhesive but against takes time if you don’t want to warp the metal. To blast it 💯 properly the car needs a full prep with removal of everything and wire wheel sealer before blasting or a pre blast,seam seal removal,metal repairs done and then blasted again to provide the proper profile for the sealer primer. A blaster that knows what they’re doing will take several passes over the car instead of one even pass especially over bondo areas. We get a bad rep because people don’t prepare the car properly prior to or the shop says “ we just want this done….” And eventually the vehicle goes somewhere else and those people knit pick it and blame the blaster. I had done a truck once and five months later got a call from a shop asking for a bid. Upon arrival I noticed it was blasted and recognized it because it’s a 40s Powerwagon with the same roof dents but the guy’s who called I’ve never met. They blamed the “ other” blaster for lack of job completion and so called skill saying “ fortunately they didn’t warp it” after listening to ten minutes of how shity the last blaster was and how glad they found me because I have a reputation of not damaging metal I told them the history of that truck and why there was missed area’s. So unless you’re in direct communication with the owner and they are honest, usually it’s a shop that’s cutting corners because they are charging the customers full price for me but telling me to do less so they can pocket some money. If any of you DIY guy’s have any questions about blasting as this guy or message me and I can give you a recommendation for a proper procedure for you and what you need to get blasted properly. Don’t take it to those fab shops that specialize with heavy materials like stair rails, brackets for industrial equipment or anything industrial for that matter unless they have a reputation having a guy in there that specializes in thin materials. Get with your local resto shops and see who they recommend. It’s up to you to do that research. Great video btw!!!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thanks for the comment !

[@rickss69]

Agreed...the customer needs to remove all the fasteners/hardware before it goes to any blaster. That is not their job.

[@big6316]

I've never used wet soda blasting but I talked to a guy while he was doing it and it seemed to be a superior way to go. What's your opinion on that?

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@jasoncardoza6375 But the issue is how do you remove wet compacted sand from inaccessible places.... You can't that's the problem.... it doesn't matter who the blaster is that fact can't be changed and that's why this is the wrong method for auto restoration. Not to mention the fact that a lot of these guys doing the blasting are not using rust prohibitor and they're not telling the customer what's going to just so they can do the job more cheaply.... Tell me that doesn't happen yeah you can't.... This isn't about me bad-mouthing anyone I've just seen countless customers as a matter of fact all of them that have had this done are very unhappy before they brought it to the shop and that's usually why they bring it so I can give them advice on how to fix it...... Industrial applications great process restoration never do it.... I will always advised people to use dry blasting over wet blasting. Thanks for the comment

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@big6316 the soda can be washed out as long as you're using a rust inhibitor so it's not going to get trapped in all of the seams an inaccessible places, sure I'd be that process. Thanks

[@OldBeaters72]

Wow, I’m in Pennsylvania. I didn’t think the cars down your way got as crusty as the ones up here. I know it’s in good hands now. It’s going to turn out great.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir !!!

[@johnkelly6942]

My ‘55 Nomad body is headed to media blasting this Friday. I better go over it one more time to make sure i got everything off that’s coming off!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@johnkelly6942 Boooom !

[@henryleach671]

I restored a "California rust-free" (there's virtually no such thing) '56 Nomad a few years ago - be especially focused on the quarter panel/wheelhouse areas aft of the rear wheels. Can be a real rat's nest and repro panels aren't available for much of it. Also, the roof rail interior over the cargo area along with the belt-line interior seams, etc....................................

[@johnkelly6942]

@@henryleach671 my Nomad got torn apart probably 30 years ago for new floors/rockers/tailpan then passed through 3 more owners (unassembled, no drivetrain) until it came to me. I’ll know for sure what I’ve got after the sandblaster does his thing. The old patches on the lower front quarters (wheelhouse to B pillar) are horrible and I had to buy full quarters at a $1,000 bucks a pop just to get the chunk I need to redo this old repair.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@henryleach671 Thanks for the info.

[@JayMills-z3f]

Every video you put out are a huge help, Robert! Thanks for the information on proper bracing!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I really appreciate that comment and thank you for being part of the family !

[@fireball7671]

Great tip's Robert, that car is definitely in the right hands now. Looking forward to to seeing some videos on it!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@fireball7671 Thanks for the support and following my channel !

[@stanleyhasting6047]

Very knowledgeable, nice shop, good-looking bike builds going on as well.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@stanleyhasting6047 Thanks ! I wish I had just a motorcycle shop that's where my heart is....

[@samuelsmith2522]

Great tips! Thanks

[@guzzifabrication3448]

👍👍

[@jonjones-v5d]

Great once-over and tips. THX!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir !!!

[@thebull9212]

Knowing the tricks of the trade do come in handy when buying a classic " sight un-seen". People will try anything to scam you... another great video brother!!! Super informative, keep them coming

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Yeah I hate that !! Notice where your car is ?

[@thebull9212]

@guzzifabrication3448 in the line up...yes I did!!!! Lol

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@thebull9212 hey brother hope you have a great day and family have a great weekend !

[@thebull9212]

You as well brother, tell the family I said hello!!!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@thebull9212 👍

[@youtube-handle-are-a-joke]

When I brace a car, I like to brace on the inside because it allows me to test fit the doors. On a convertible you can bolt the braces on the convertible top mounts and on the front it's either welded to the kick panel or bolted if the car has a bolted under dash cross brace. Anyway if it's welded I always weld them on the inside where it will be covered by the upholstery. Also x braces are stronger than just rectangular but they can greatly limit access so it's important to know what will be needed before the body is welded back together/put back on the frame.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thanks for the info !

[@deuceman32]

Well, we thank you! Always good info on your channel.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@deuceman32 👍

[@rsonweb2060]

Those body mounts caused me a ton of stress to replace. I was afraid I would get them the wrong height and didn't have or really know how to use shims. Thanks for all your great videos.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@rsonweb2060 if you run into any issues leave your questions in the comments I'll get back with you thanks for watching !

[@djparn007]

Thank you, Robert. You're the best! 👍👍👍

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir !!

[@MicksWorkshop]

Thank you so much for the fantastic videos to help us DIYers out. I've only watched a half dozen or so videos so far and I've learned more than I thought possible. Your metal repair and finishing skills are inspirational. I don't plan on taking my Jeep down the this level right away, but I know what I have learned so far is going to help with the repairs I need to make.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

That is an AWESOME comment Sir ! Thanks you !

[@rixkafer56]

You're a bundle of information man ! Thank you !!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I hope a few of the tips were helpful !

[@user-Brad37Ford]

Always enjoy watching and learning from you Robert ! Really great car show ! 👍 Take care

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@user-Brad37Ford I really appreciate your support !!

[@everosio6106]

Thank you Robert still watching

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I really appreciate you supporting the channel ! Thanks

[@freddaniali]

Guzzi, the more I watch you, the more impressed I get. You really know what you are doing.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@freddaniali That's an awesome comment thank you for supporting the channel !

[@mikeroberts5646]

Amazing what people get away with I’m a Mopar freak own 3 ,What’s even worse in my World is when they try to sell you a Charger claiming totally restored Price 80 tp 100 grand only to find out how much was undone,Like your video and pointing out that nothing is perfect People get overwhelmed with Eye candy I subscribed

[@guzzifabrication3448]

You are absolutely correct.... Thanks for the sub and welcome to my channel ! Check out the Mopar restorations on my playlist.

[@cobyburrow9339]

Great info! Really enjoy restoration tips.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir !!!

[@bigguy589]

Thank you, for your beautiful DIY cars tips and tricks, I love them.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you ! glad to have you as part of my channel !

[@craigbrown603]

Best advice will keep all in mind cheers from oz

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Cheers back from America, hope those tips helped !

[@WilliamLaakkonen]

Wow- great tips! How do you know what the body mounts should look like or measure when you have nothing to work from?

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@WilliamLaakkonen great question, the upper trunk deck that I'm purchasing, the mounts are already attached to it, plus this car will be built on a frame fixture and I can use reference points and measure for equal height.

[@TheddreaJackson]

I'm on my second rebuild impala with your awesome help it will be like the first one outstanding

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@TheddreaJackson Awesome !!!!

[@dpires73]

Thanks for the tips Guzzi!!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@dpires73 👍

[@BugeyeBob-zt6ne]

Thanks for the tips. I like the idea of bolting in the braces. I've been thinking about using X bracing inside my 1958 Austin Healey Sprite as well as the lateral bracing. Just not certain that the lateral braces will prevent the body twisting since the floorboards are rotted out and it's a unit body construction. Also, I'm faced with tar as the seam filler on my Bugeye Sprite. Yup... tar. It's going to be hell cleaning that out of the seams.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Tar is the worst.....

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Tar is the worst....

[@rickss69]

Use dry ice...you will be amazed how easily and clean it comes off.

[@bobw222]

@@rickss69 Ah... good idea. Freeze and it should crack right off.

[@fulltilt6]

Great info !

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@fulltilt6 Thank you Sir !!

[@numbskullskills]

great tips thank you

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@numbskullskills Thank you for always tuning in !

[@numbskullskills]

@@guzzifabrication3448 your welcome

[@vehdynam]

Once again great information that is much appreciated. I have a 1966 Chev Bel Air 2 dr sedan where the wind shield base is rusted out . I was thinking of replacing the cowl as a starting point, do you have any videos on something like this? Thank you. Ps : nice Harley there.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I'll have a video on that out soon, using the shrinker / stretcher. I just finished a nice cholo heritage build.

[@DR-ro7dw]

I find your videos very informative. Love cars but am not a body technician so please forgive my lame questions. 1 When melting out the original lead, do you replace with lead or a filler and recreate the soft body line indent? 2 When removing paint, do you leave vin tags in place OR to avoid potential damage, do you remove and reattach them ? Thank you.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Great questions, after removing the lead, I fabricate a patch to fill in the seam and eliminate the need for lead or filler. Removing the VIN tag is a federal offense... Thanks

[@DR-ro7dw]

@@guzzifabrication3448 Appreciate the response. Don’t want to run afoul with the law.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@DR-ro7dw Yeah a lot of people don't know that and remove the VIN's, the I.D tag with the body information is different, but I just do that area around them by hand to be safe. Thanks

[@UnconventionalMetal]

Great tips

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir !!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thanks for the info, I'll just call it the yellow bottle from here on out

[@IsmaelGomez-z5m]

Very good educational 👍👍👍

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@IsmaelGomez-z5m Thank you Sir !!

[@monadking2761]

Wondered if you seam seal over the acid primer then seal then apoxy over both?

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@monadking2761 after media blast this area would have weld through primer applied a piece of sheet metal fabricated and welded into place eliminating the need for more lead or

[@mikeseguin-g6p]

Early in 2008, MAPP gas production was discontinued at the only remaining plant in North America that still manufactured it!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@mikeseguin-g6p hey thanks for the info, I'll just call it the yellow bottle from now on.

[@josephcapps6416]

Love your channel. I'm planning to do a "64 Tempest Convertible in the not-so-distant future, hopefully. It's not been blasted yet, but I think it's going to be a good start. Thanks very much for the tips and tricks you show us. It would be great if you could throw in some suggestions on where you find parts, sheet metal, etc. Thanks again for what you do.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I'm a Pontiac guy ! nice car to restore, Classic Industries for parts. Thanks.

[@josephcapps6416]

@@guzzifabrication3448 Thanks a bunch for the tip on parts.

[@jasonweishaupt1828]

I grind my TIG welds down with stacked Dremel heavy duty wheels. When I get close to level I switch to 60 grit Dremel sanding cylinders. When I start hitting virgin steel I briefly switch to 120 until I hit it a little more. Then I hand cross sand with 80 grit then 150 until that sheet looks and feels flat! I replaced my sail panel leaded seems with metal to metal filler. I dug that stuff out by hand and sanded the rest. I use to do heavy metal cleanup so I wore the correct PPE. For media blasting I use coal slag at a shallow angle. NASA did a media blasting study and found that peening was the cause of warpage, not heat. How did they keep the bodies from bending at the factory before being bolted down?

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thanks for the info.

[@vinzenzguntern7833]

Thanks for the video. What are your tips for dealing with overlapping metal and the rust in between before you paint it? Do you use a thin rust remover or something else? Thanks.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir ! over lapping metal as in ? I always spot blast and use an epoxy primer. Thanks for supporting my channel !

[@RandallSoong-pp7ih]

Thank you sir!!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I hope a few of the tips were helpful!

[@DouglasKehres]

thank you !!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@DouglasKehres hey thank you sir for watching in the comment

[@timothygoodsell1446]

Great tips💪💪

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@timothygoodsell1446 Thank you Sir !!

[@dull_boy_274]

Thank you gor the tips. I wish i vould show you this 1963 Econoline Van I bought. It was "primed and ready for paint" but its a complete disaster. Im a diy amateur and i know everything was done in oreectly

[@guzzifabrication3448]

When a person says " it's ready for paint " ....... It's happened to me before.... Check out this video Video link kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4aadGeba5WqgtE

[@bullybluecoal1831]

Nice brother. The tips and tricks I'm learning from you, will be very beneficial when i get my B-body. Those mid to late 60s Mopars have been calling to me. I can't take the taunting anymore LOL. I really like your rotisserie. Who made it?

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Can't go wrong with Mopars ! I picked up that rotisserie years ago used, don't know who the manufacturer is. Thanks !!

[@lucasgrant2675]

Great video! About to start this process on my 67 Firebird. Would you recommend getting as much metal work done prior to blasting and then fix anything that appears once the blasting is done? I imagine getting epoxy primer on ASAP after is the preferred method.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I usually media blast before and yes apply the epoxy or etching primer ASAP definitely ! Thanks

[@jeffmesser796]

Great vid from the best

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir !! I appreciate your support

[@Juliovee123]

Robert I gotta say my brotha, you say this channel is for the DIY guy/gal but to be honest even if I had all the quality equipment you do there’s no way I could match the quality of work you do. It’s the knowledge and experience that matters most! And like you said cars like that 61 NOTHING is made. So I work on my 59 Chevy on the weekends and I look at the reproduction quarter panels that have been discontinued and the NOS quarters I have found and tell myself yeah these are not pieces I want to practice with haha! I love seeing your work especially the impalas I’m a big 58-64 X frame fan. Keep it up!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

The experience and tools just come over time if you keep building them, yeah parts are becoming a problem to find and some of the new parts are even worse... Is your project a 59 Impala ?

[@Juliovee123]

@@guzzifabrication3448it is a 59 el Camino. All the sheet metal I’m missing is the floor pan and toe board. I lucked out and bought the reproduction quarter panels just before the manufacturers stopped stamping them. I paid around $700 for full lower left and right. People resell them on eBay for about $2500 for the pair of just the rear lower halves from the middle of the wheel house to the tail panel. I like the 59’s but my pockets couldn’t support an impala project haha! Unfortunately it would have probably been easier to build a 59 impala as there were almost half a million built and only 20,000 el Camino for 59 and a lot of the parts are el Camino specific. Most of the items I am missing are shared between all 59 models however the hard to find stuff I’ve managed to source throughout the years.

[@KitTheGearhead]

Awesome tips man. Thank you. That is handy just to get an idea on how long it will take to prep the car for sand blasting. Can you share with us what it took you time wise to get it corrected to second round of blasting? Thanks

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Great question, every vehicle is different, it can take 10 hrs. to 30 hrs. it depends on how much work the car needs and how nice of a job you want... Thanks for the question.

[@GRANITEMONUMENT]

The square brace is OK , but a square is difficult to KEEP square, it needs an angle involved?? At least in my experience, I’ve a got a 1960 f100 that was started before I got my hands on it, and my ability to get the door gaps perfect is proving difficult..

[@guzzifabrication3448]

?

[@GRANITEMONUMENT]

@@guzzifabrication3448 Sorry, should have explained that better. because of the same issue, they did not add any triangulation before removing floors, and the square or “rectangle” is very ineffective at holding things stiff.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@GRANITEMONUMENT Yeah working behind other people really sucks....

[@tonymills4961]

Would you do another 61 hardtop Quarters, not quite that bad. Have all the patch panels available

[@guzzifabrication3448]

you can contact me through [e-mail], thanks

[@JasonNicholls-p3r]

Thanks for the great and informative video. Im getting ready to take the body off a 1951 chevy Fleetline. Do I need to brace before removing from the frame since it is not a convertible? Thanks for any advice.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Bracing required if vehicle is a convertible or you a performing structural repairs. Thanks

[@GRANITEMONUMENT]

I do media blasting for a lot of local guys, as my main business involves blasting, but I have always disassembled everything, took pictures, and protect all threads , I have had so many people bring parts and they always seem to say “just hit it quick, and don’t worry about this or that, I’ll use rust converter” , just my experience, I’m not a pro body guy, more of my hobby.,

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Anything worth doing, is worth doing right...

[@theogantenbein7870]

1:45 Omg. What were they thinking? And what is the lower brace supposed to do, other than causing trouble when you remove it? If the owner welded in these things, fine. If you restore the car by yourself, you have the right to cut every corner you want to. And you can’t know everything. But if you charge people a good amount of money for your work, please do it right.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Exactly right... Thanks for the comment !!

[@jimdrechsel3611]

Great tips. You mentioned DP 90. Have you tried or have feedback on Tamco Paint Products? The DP 90 is supposed to be very costly. Do you have panels blasted? It’s supposed to warp them.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I'm not familiar with that brand, I'm an exclusive PPG shop but yes there are less expensive alternatives for sure. Media blasting.... the tech MUST be experienced and competent !!! the issues come into play when they are not.... Thanks

[@ScarlettFire341]

Best part is no Loud Guitar Screaming !

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@ScarlettFire341 Hey thank you Sir and thank you for watching !

[@101_skeleton6]

I have a 1992 ford tempo, the caulking rusted the hell out of the bottom corners of the windshield and rear glass.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Wow I haven't seen a Ford Tempo in forever !

[@kevdaceo]

Learned alot. But I have a question. Does making a square when doing frame off goes just for doing convertibles? Or can that be applied to trucks and hardtop cars? I have a f100 I'm doing and might go frame off.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Great question, for a truck it's not necessary.

[@scotgustafson3270]

This is the difference between a FULL restoration and Almost There. Attention to detail and laying a solid foundation gives superior results.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@scotgustafson3270 yes Sir you are absolutely correct ! There is no way to do a good job if these things are skimmed over.... Thanks for the comment

[@jonathanvidal3073]

Agreed!

[@harveyjewell7015]

So how do you get the media out of all of the car

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@harveyjewell7015 vacuum multiple times....

[@GlenJS]

I am working on a 1978 Suburban K20 that has not been taken good care of. I am working on replacing rocker panels, fender panel sections, a section of the roof over the passenger side rear door and will need to replace the complete front clip including a poorly repaired hood. I also know there is a rust hole in the floor pan on the driver's side and it looks like it is actually a sandwich arrangement as it does not show up in the drivers compartment floorboard. I also need to know the best way to adjust the barn doors on the rear and a good way to replace and align the front doors as the bushings were what appear to be something like Teflon. After all of that I need to replace all of the window seals and the door seals. I also need to find a way to build some supports for the bucket seats that are in it. Some person stole the original seat which was a bench seat and I purchased a set of teats from another Suburban which do not match up exactly. The right rear panel has serious rust just behind the door and over the wheel well. I also have already replaced the section of the lower panel that is from the wheel well back to the barn doors (I wish I had seen your videos before doing that as it is not the best job and would consider trying to figure a way to fix the waviness of the work that I did.) I have already replaced the bad engine with a 454, but I still need to finish tuning the quadra jet and tighten up the timing curve. I am open to any suggestions that you could give and will greatly appreciate them.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@GlenJS the first honest advice I would give on a project that massive is is it within your budget that's a lot of work.... I know they made the next generation body style from 81 to I believe in the early nineties a lot more parts availability. If you're set on fixing this one first thing is the hood is a replacement those always break in the middle they're not worth repairing second rebuild the door hinges upper and lower as well as look at the barn door hinges make sure that they don't have a lot of slack before you start trying to adjust the doors, LMC is an outlet for replacement parts, Facebook marketplace, or Craigslist. You don't see a lot of 78 suburbans running around anymore I understand you wanting to build it but it's a lot of work just make sure you're up for the commitment. If you have any more questions leave them in the comments and I'll do my best to answer and help you out

[@GlenJS]

@@guzzifabrication3448 Than you for the ideas on where to start and what kind of schedule to adhere to. I have the rear quarter lower panels, left rocker panel (outside), and the patch panels for the door to wheel well, and top of the passenger rear wheel already. I am doing this on my VA Disability income so it will be a slow process. There is also some minimal rusting on the right rocker panel which I think I can fix with a piece of metal that I have from another project so that is not a major issue. When I am in the states (I am currently at my Wifes house in Thailand) and will have to work on the Suburban when I get back to the states. It is also my daily driver while in the states which makes the work a little slower. Thank you again for all of your wonderful advice.

[@GRANITEMONUMENT]

Can I ask “what years will we find the lead body filler”..

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I'm not really sure when the factory stopped using lead, early 70s ?

[@nocandopdx]

How much do you charge to restore a vehicle such as this one now a days? Or do you not know until after it's done? What's a typical price range? Ty

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Each vehicle is it's own and has to be estimated that way. Thanks for the question.

[@nocandopdx]

@guzzifabrication3448 that was a slippery answer but i didn't ask the right questions, so i have two more. What's the most you ever charged for a restoration, and how long did it take. = D

[@brendendyson8470]

Hey mate what’s the bike on the workbench

[@guzzifabrication3448]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/raCriomwgctor6c

[@rickss69]

If you have a lot of body/seam sealer to remove nothing works better/easier than dry ice.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thanks for the info.

[@samuelsmith2522]

🤔👍👍

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir !!

[@skullkillerwwe8085]

want an oem ac setup for the 61?

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@skullkillerwwe8085 thanks I really appreciate the offer I think the owner is going with a vintage Air

[@lamarw7757]

Just unbolt the brace tube. No need to cut it first.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@lamarw7757 I thought about that after I said it, you're correct...

[@loganshotrod4x464]

Who else has had to weld patch panels on a classic car where the prior owner used spray foam insulation under the headliner? Spray foam insulation leads to the absolute worst cancerous rust I’ve ever seen, don’t use it!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Ahh yes, the spray foam....

[@andreiturrian7455]

He telling all the thing most gloss over it is the little things

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thanks for the comment !

[@apethings7671]

Dats exactly the work u get when the cameras are off 😅

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Yes Sir that's a big reason I video all the projects, there is no question about the type of work my shop puts out. Thanks for the comment !

[@stevesmoneypit6137]

Just common sense

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@stevesmoneypit6137 Thanks for the input

[@thomaswoitekaitis8977]

It can still go out of square, needs to be crossed like an x in the middle

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@thomaswoitekaitis8977 A square is stronger than x bracing it, thanks for the comment and watching the video.

[@thomaswoitekaitis8977]

Not my experience. Entertainment while I work on my stuff none the less. Have a good one.

[@ShaunHensley]

Looks like kids did that

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Ka Booom !!

[@stevegus2845]

The guy is lucky he found you. that's all I can say.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

I really appreciate that ! Thank you !!

[@lorriejessie6645]

Did a 1960 impala. Understand everything u are saying

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@lorriejessie6645 It's always the little things if overlooked in the beginning that have a huge impact later.... thank you for the comment and thank you for watching!

[@lawrencetrapani5623]

Dont you just Love having to correct someone elses mistakes? A bit of common sense would have saved hours of labor and repair to get it back to original! Smile and enjoy the ride! Thanks for your channel

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@lawrencetrapani5623 thanks for the comment and additionally the customer was unhappy about paying double... But it will be straightened out now and we are on the right track. thanks for supporting the channel !

[@lawrencetrapani5623]

@@guzzifabrication3448 You have good content! I am re doing another body shops mess myself and sorry that I got a bucket of poop once the client was schooled he was excited! That was a couple months ago and he was at shop yesterday and each time excited that I took the time to give show and tell and each visit he doesn't even ask he just smiles pays me some money and leaves I am always highly accountable and school my clients so they know why what and how. I am gonna get another vehicle, after this one is finished from him! Makes me feel good and accountable. Old School here 76 and still doing toys! Blessed

[@mts0628]

I thought I have attention to detail. Geez this stuff is meticulous!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@mts0628 Yes Sir... Thanks for watching!

[@hoopaholicstickum]

Dude!!! You don’t need to grind an L into the hinge… buy a stamp set and simply stamp an L into the door hinge. Good lord!!!

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Go change your diaper....

[@rickss69]

He marked it for reference and it was free and also will never be seen. You on the other just spent extra money for nothing gained. Personally, I use a cheap electric engraver for such chores as I have always had them in the shop.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@rickss69 An electric engraver is a great choice. Thanks for the comment !

[@JefferyValstaz]

I used to work at a hot rod shop that would throw a fit if finished welds were visible before filler was laid on. I always had the welds dressed properly, & the ability to put a skim coat on was all the was needed. I never saw the owner come down & lay out welds that would disappear after sanding withva DA. this video is real-life fabrication

[@guzzifabrication3448]

Thank you Sir for that comment !!!

[@big6316]

I have a different take on why the other shop didn't bother with details and maybe still could've been a pretty good restoration shop. They may have had some very cheap/unskilled labor and learned to do several media blasts and other processes at the same time on multiple cars, regardless of their stage of being stripped down, braced, etc. After the hired out processes were done in batches they could use the cheap labor to strip the body the rest of the way on cars that needed it while moving forward with the other cars that didn't need additional prep. A professional shop can't run like a private collection and economies of scale have to be found in order to do volume and make money. Or they could've just been hacks....

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@big6316 At the end of the day and at the end of BS somebody at that shop has to be accountable.... Thanks for the comment!

[@big6316]

I'd just bite the bullet on those welded braces and use a hole saw to cleanly remove the welded pieces. Yeah, it will leave holes but they'll be gone in less than a minute and the holes will be a uniform shape that I could already have plugs made to fit. Less opportunity to gouge the surrounding metals and less time invested overall.

[@guzzifabrication3448]

@@big6316 thanks for the comment !