@johngersna3263 thank you!!!

@@guzzifabrication3448 I've been watching your videos for a few months now and I have to tell you that your work is second to none. God bless and have a wonderful day.

Just passing on old time bodyman trick. Thanks for watching.

Great question, a good urethane primer a then paint. If the camper is exposed to the sun alot base coat clear coat paint

Yep..... hey thanks for the comment

You should make a video....

Floors, lower trunk, upper trunk, wheel houses, quarters are getting replaced and the work is done on a 4x4x17 frame fixture, why would you waste the time.... if your skill/experience level is low, then yes you probably should take the extra time and money to brace.....

Thank you for watching

Thanks for the comment ! she is shaping up nicely !

I didn't know I was on your time table.... I thought I was giving good information away for free, do you always cry when someone gives you free stuff??? if oyur time is that valuable... why are you on social media spud

This kit has ALOT to be desired, I'm going to have to make my own also, I installed the rear suspension supplied but not very happy with it. I'll try to work in a video on that.

Nice !

I'll try to make it happen.

Thank you Sir !

Pm or give us a call

Thanks brother !

I will try !

Thanks for the support !!!

Nice !

Thanks ! I haven't purchased the wiring kit yet, do you have any suggestions ??

Well, I've had 4 calls on doing the flat out enegieering corvette swap on other projects, I declined.....

Thanks !

Me too !!!! one step at a time

Thanks !

Thanks brother !

Stay tuned, I'm trying to work it back into the schedule, thanks for watching !

The rack was supplied with the kit, the instructions say "corvette", not really sure.

OK confirmed it is a corvette steering rack, if you use this you will need - 1984-96 Chevy Corvette C4 Steering Rack 3/4\" DD x 17 mm DD Shaft U-Joint - to go from the rack out put shaft to connect steering linkage.

@@guzzifabrication3448 thanks so much for info mate

@@fredjones1238 👍

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Thanks , passing on old time bodyman trick

Thank you Sir !

I'm glad you are here, your support is appreciated !!

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Just passing on really old bodyman trick, if used correctly it can help. Thanks

0.7mm ? there aren't any factory or reproduction body panels made in this thickness....... you would be using GTAW not GMAW process..... even trying is foolish

@@guzzifabrication3448 British Classic Mini, 1970's, factory panels are between 0.7 and 0.8mm typically, depending where on the car they are and if the steel is flat or curved etc. I am using new 0.8mm steel as repair panels, and that is slightly thicker than the original panels. I am using 0.6mm wire (0.025"), MIG welding, 75/25 gas. Works well, just cant have a gap.

@@JB-NZ If foreign cars are using 22 to 24 gauge sheetmetal you should be using tig or oxyacetylene, mig welds are hardened welds making the surrounding metal weak and brittle, last thing you want with 22 -24 gauge sheetmetal.... very high probablity of craking and failure. I repaired a 70's Fiat I remember now it had that gauge sheetmetal

There are a couple of methods ( I still don't recommend mig welding this gauge ) one is use a 1/16 tig rod ER70s as a filler, basically combining mig and tig at the same time to weld. I'll make a video on that, on thicker metals that's an easy trick to bridge a gap with mig

@@guzzifabrication3448 Tig sadly is not an option as you just cant get the old steel clean enough, ends up in even more of a mess. Ideally you go back to clean steel, but you cant grind all of the impurities off as then you have nothing left, and it would involve cutting out way more. MIG is by far the most common for repairing these cars, and the repair certifier also suggested the same. Its a combination of MIG and also spot welds (for where the panels overlap) - just like factory. Repairs are all going well, just have to do mig spot by spot and link them up, cant do a continuous bead etc. Just cant have a gap or it ends in a blow out.

Really old bodyman trick, start w/5% added resin, if too much resin is added the mix will be harder to sand, runny, and longer curing time.

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Thanks ! I think that cutoff wheel is a Avanti 7 "

@@guzzifabrication3448 thanks I'm also a new subscriber.

@@andyvitale6071 that's awesome !

Thanks ! I only listen to the positive people like you !!!

good point, adding less resin will avoid being harder to sand, check out part 2 I'll introduce you to the cheese grater, that will change your life...

Thank you Sir ! remember not too much resin or the mix will be harder to sand and runny

Thank you !!

Thank you Sir !!

Add less resin, too much resin and the mix will be harder to sand and cure time longer

Really old bodyman trick, just passing it on. Thanks

If all you have is a socket set and a couple of screw drivers, maybe you shouldn't be attempting this repair.......

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Thanks ! check out my playlist quite a few Impala restorations