Singer 201-2 Rewire - Part 2a Rewiring the motor

In this series, we cover the complete rewiring of a vintage Singer 201-2 sewing machine. In Part 1, we covered the removal of the motor, light, and switch assembly. In part 2 (a) we show you, in detail, how to disassemble the motor, how to clean it, and add new connecting wires to the field coils. Also in Part 2 (b), we will disassemble the lighting unit, and clean and rewire it. The single wire at the switch will also be replaced. Part 3 will show how to reattach everything to the sewing machine, with special care showing how to feed the wires from the light through the machine so they don't interfere with the mechanism.
In the video, I misspoke... It's NOT 5/16" wicking material for the grease wicks, it's 3/16". Sorry...
Consumables used from McMaster-Carr:
Item 8767K226 Firm Felt Cord F1 3/16" diameter (grease wick for motor)
Item 9600K33 SBR Rubber Grommet for 7/16" hole diameter and 3/32": material thickness.
Item 7113K551 Ring Terminals, non-insulated for 22-18 Wire Gauge and number 8 screw.
Item 7856K43 Heat-shrink tubing 0.13" ID before shrinking.
My website: bobsvsmservice.com/
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[@JRJonesOD]

I appreciate your posting this. I recently acquired a 201 in a beautiful cabinet at an estate sale. To transport it, I took it out of the cabinet, and the insulation on the wires simply turned to powder, so I knew I was going to have to do more work than I have done on a previous machine (a 503A). Watching these videos has made me feel a lot more comfortable about beginning the task. Thanks so much.

[@Profacy15]

This was a fantastic breakdown. Thank you so much!

[@fuzzzyyellow]

Sharing a little tip I don't know where or when I learned, but when putting the armature and worm gear together and finding the flat spot for the worm gear set screw...The left end of the armature shaft has a circle with a flat spot on it. That's your alignment mark for the flat spot at the worm gear end. No need for a Sharpie. Singer thought of everything, no? Enjoyed the video!

[@PatriciaSpayd]

YES! I found that! Perfect! Thank you!

[@gannonremington9167]

i know im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a method to log back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can give me

[@theodorejayden1864]

@Gannon Remington Instablaster ;)

[@gannonremington9167]

@Theodore Jayden Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@gannonremington9167]

@Theodore Jayden It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thanks so much you saved my ass :D

[@r.duroucher225]

I would like to echo all the "thank you" comments. I've just re-wired a 15, including the light and would never have tried that project without having learned from you.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Glad I could help!

[@GreenPumpkin767]

Such a great tutorial. I wish I would have seen this before I took my 66 Motor apart. My wire snapped off at the coil, on the brush end, and am trying to repair it but if I don’t this will be my learning motor. I love watching your videos Bob. Thank you for sharing your experience

[@calliseroach1785]

Thank you for this video. I 3d printed a square "stick" out of PLA that was 5.8mm x 5.8mm x 50mm to get the upper brushes out. I just tapped on my new tool with a pair of pliers and out they came! A great tool for a 5 minute investment. I did use a 100% infill for strength. Hope that helps someone.

[@robinj.9329]

You have a Cat! As soon as I saw that scratch on your hand, I said; CAT SCRATCH ! 🐈

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

No, I don't have "A" cat, I have six cats! :-)

[@robinj.9329]

@@BobFowlerWorkshop You got me beat! At one time we had 5 indoor cats. Plus a few neighborhood "Strays" that came by twice a day for food and fresh water 💧.

[@robinj.9329]

A lot of work, plus skill and experience needed! BUT, all of these grand old machines are WORTH SAVING!

[@renaissancecityvintagereav5797]

this awesome. I'm new to the vintage sewing machine restoration world and you have no idea how helpful you've been. thanks for all you do.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful!

[@PascoPerky]

Just rewired my 15-91 and couldn't have done it myself without your guidance! She is a little rough on the outside but that just shows how much she was loved! Thank you - she purrs like a kitten!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

I'm so glad! Happy to be of help.

[@auntieroseable]

I can’t see where you are working . Hands in way sometimes. Thank you for making this video

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

I did a revisit... Look at this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4i2imyBft-KZs0

[@PatriciaSpayd]

I disassembled a 'bad' 15-91 motor - couldnt' get the brush out as it was wedged in hard, and the spring came out, but not the brush. So I followed your video here and took out the armature and worm gear and -pop! The brush fell out! Now I've got new brushes, and new grease wicks installed. Now, I just ordered a soldering iron, rosin-tin solder, and a gripper thing set. Now for the practice practice before I attempt the soldering on the 15-91 motor. THANK YOU BOB!!!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Outstanding! Glad to hear it helped. Congratulations!

[@jacquelinemanzano9328]

Thank you for the instructional tutorial. I respect electricity which is why I always use a soldering iron and heat shrink to repair/add new wiring to all electronics for good sound connections. I use to repair monitors and circuit boards for video poker machines in the gaming industry. However, I am just now learning how to repair and rewire sewing machines. I have a 1927 Franklin Rotary and it has 3 twisted cloth wires coming out of the motor with a weird looking 3 pronged plug at the end. It needs to be rewired, it has a light and I need to add a foot pedal and a polarized plug.

[@mikri2008]

This is a very helpful and instructive viedo. Thank you for demonstrating this great work. I just felt like rewiring the small motor on my Featherweigth.

[@kennynhannguyen8666]

Thank you for great demonstration video. Very helpful.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@patfrey7242]

Another informative video!! Loved it!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@1091tube]

really well presented, thanks!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rizzirizzirizzi]

Great video!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@boephco]

Thanks for this; timing was appropriate as I just ran into a very similar mess.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Glad it was helpful!

[@yoshaki]

Thanks for presenting SO much information. I bought a 201-2 that had been restored by someone locally and used it for a while and then felt comfortable to recently by a 15-91. This is going to help me finish my restore.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Glad I could help!

[@heleen6862]

Great, thanks a lot Bob!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Welcome!

[@Annonymous0283745]

thanks for all the help my friend! the 201-2 that I got for my lady for Christmas has just been re-wired! One of the brush caps were broken, but there was enough of the head left to get it off. 14 dollars and change after shipping to get it replaced. OUCH!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Glad to be of help. Yes, I know that pain, brush caps are expensive!

[@barbarabrasted-maki875]

I hope my comment is of use to other newbies: If you're going to take out the brush holders, you not only need to be gentle, but you need to position the "tapper" very precisely on the brush holder. There is a bakelite insert with a rim in there, and if you end up tapping on the bakelite rim (even gently!) instead of just on the metal brush holder, you will break it (ask me how I know).

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Ouch! Worth mentioning too is not to wail on it! Tapping is just that, tapping! We're not driving cut nails into concrete...

[@fanficmarie5189]

Thank you so much. So informative. I was able to repair my machine :)

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Awesome! Glad it helped!

[@fanficmarie5189]

I was surprised mine was all original still worked but the electrician said the power cord should be replaced. N I knew it needed cleaning... Now I just got to figure out what the spots really are that I'm cleaning off lol oil or shellack. More research :) love your videos I now have 7 machines. Minnesota A. , 500a (rocketeer), 1947 201-2 (Rolls-Royce w paperclip variant decals), 1910 Pheasant Treadle, 1934 15-88 w/eye n trefoil decal, and 1902 pharaoh. So I am anxious to learn all I can do again thank you for your help

[@saintmax8512]

Thank you so much for this video, Super Helpful in my quest of repairing my 201-2. I wanted to share something I noticed on the armature. The ground flat on the shaft for the worm gear also has a corresponding ground flat on the other end of the shaft where the windings are if you look at the winding end with the worm gear end pointing away from you.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Glad it helped!

[@TheIdeabaker]

I appreciate that you take the time to explain how to spot and identify wiring from different time periods, using visual examples. It’s so useful that you give the reason why certain steps are taken during the process. You’re a natural teacher! When you say that the wire is “shot” and “horrible”, what are the signs (outside of the visual breaks in the insulation)? Is it the brittleness, or is there build-up on it? Or something else? Long way of asking how do we know when it is time to rewire a machine?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Visible breaks, crunchy insulation, a gummy mess - those are all good descriptions of wire that's shot, but by all means, not the only things that can be wrong. A lot depends on the age of the machine, the type of wire involved, if it's been rewired in the past the techniques used to rewire, and a host of other things. If the wire has cloth insulation, replace it. As a rule of thumb, if the machine is pre-1965, it's almost a guarantee it's going to need new wire. Newer machines may need it as well, so don't take that as a hard and fast timeline. I've seen motors that have been rewired in the past year that need to be redone because someone used the wrong kind of solder and flux for the repair. NEVER, never, ever use an acid paste flux for electrical work! It will corrode the wire and whatever it's soldered to (even under the insulation), quite possibly ruining the parts. I have found that there are some items not worth the effort of rewiring. Certain lamp units that Singer used have switches of an awful design, and I don't even bother with them anymore, I buy a modern lamp unit. Some belted motors are worth the effort, some are not. For those that aren't worth the effort, there are good replacements available in the $35 to $50 range that work fine. Likewise, certain foot controllers I don't bother with. The wire-wound controllers with sheet metal bodies are an atrocious design and I regularly replace them with a modern electronic controller that gives better control and runs cooler. Hope this helps.

[@robinj.9329]

When I did a lot of Shop Work, before grabbing onto those nasty, dirty, greasy parts, I coated both hands with a product called; "Liquid Glove". It kept 95% of the dirt from sticking to your skin, and made it very easy to get cleaned up once the Job was done. Q. Is that still on the market? You could try that!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

I've tried similar products. The problem is, I sweat like a heroin addict under the best of circumstances, so it's just too uncomfortable. I tried Nitrile gloves, no joy, couldn't stand them. I guess I'm a soap and water kinda guys...

[@MrBigSRT]

What about CRC? It's fast drying with no residue contact cleaner. It sure would clean these up pretty fast with less elbow grease.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

I use CRC quick drying to flush the commutator after cleaning the bars in the bench motor. Spinning the armature and taking the fine grit to commutators gets it VERY clean, but more important, levels the commutator bars.

[@lorv8628]

I enjoyed watching, as I want to learn how to do this. I do wish he had a downlight, instead of shooting in ambient light, because it's hard to make out whats going on in that dark hole of a potted motor.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Yeah, this is an older video. I've since changed my lighting setup. I need to revisit the potted motor with my new lighting rig.

[@cynthiaporter8300]

Thank you for all your help with our sewing machines. Do you know if the grommet for the potted motor and the featherweight 221 motor is the same?

[@stewarthart9283]

Mr. Fowler, I have started to disassemble this very motor from a Singer 201 machine. As you are adding wire to the field coil you mention not having the wire pull out from the field coil. Unfortunately, as I was disassembling the unit this simply slipped out of the coil. I didn’t see anything else in the video that addressed reinstalling the wire and am wondering if you might enlighten me as to how I might accomplish this. Very grateful for any assistance you might help with.

[@pamackenzie]

I haven't seen anyone take the motor down so far. This is great, thank you, I need to do this. What gauge wire, please?

[@robbiesperry5492]

I cannot thank you enough for your detailed instructions! One question: in the washing phase: does that not damage the Japaned finish?

[@norascott5803]

You could use a little vice to help hold things!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

I do have a few work holding devices, but unfortunately, those get in the way of the camera almost as much as my big head! :-)

[@johnrichason6821]

Thank you for the awesome video! I have learned a lot by watching your videos and reading your posts in the facebook group. May I ask what brand of wire stripper you use? It sure looks like it does a great job!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

I actually just replaced my old wire stripper. My new one is the Doyle from Harbor Freight, which is very, very nice. My old one, which I've had for over 30 years, has only one marking: "Best - Made in Taiwan". No idea of the real manufacturer, but that new Doyle is great and only about $25. www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/heavy-duty-wire-stripper-and-cutter-56266.html

[@randycramer1013]

Great videos, Bob. Thank you sharing! Now that I know our 201 is wired correctly and machine is in very good condition, why do we get some smoke from motor during operation? Is armature just dry? Will new brushes and a cleaning/lubrication fix it up? Thanks for your help 🙏

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Did you clean the commutator bars completely? Also, is there any oil on the brushes?

[@scottgoessling]

Thanks Bob!! Awesome learning from your years of experience. Thanks for sharing. Any idea why the motor appears to run slower than most 201s I have seen. Rewired everything. Light comes on. Motor runs. Tried a new pedal. Any suggestions on what else I should look for?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Did you clean and polish the commutator bars? Also, if the brushes are greasy, or worse yet if they have oil on them, that can slow the motor down.

[@NerdanelWise]

Thanks so much for your videos, Bob. I'm rewiring my vintage 1953 15-91 motor. I have followed your directions to the point where the motor casing is headed for its bath in the sink (I'm the wife around here as well as the mechanic so I won't get into trouble). But then you threw in the warning not to let the fiber washer around the armature go down the drain. But there is no such washer, neither stuck in the "can" nor around the armature. Is that possible? If I never find such a washer, which you describe as "critical" is there a substitute? Thanks for the help and wisdom!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Yeah, it's only critical if it's present. The washers are used to adjust clearances and end play, so some motors don't have them. Don't worry, you'll be fine.

[@davesmith305]

Bob great video Looking for a little help, the 201-2 that I am putting back together is missing the thin fiber washer that goes on the armature where can I purchse one or what can be used instead?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Not all motors have the little washer. I wouldn't worry about it if it wasn't there when you took it apart. I have made replacement plastic ones in the past using round hole punches and sheet protector plastic from the stationary store.

[@aslynnhuisheere3136]

Hi. I really have enjoyed your videos. I feel like it’s easy to understand and see what you are doing. I believe I did everything right. But on the test run it was a no go. The only thing I didn’t do was keep track of which brush holder went where. So I did exactly like you had it according to your video. But I’m not sure if that’s the way it was when I took it apart. If I have the brush holders in the opposite slots will the motor not run? I have new brushes and new springs. The grease wick clips had the same broken clasp. So I made a little catch like you showed. Ok anyway. Just thought I would ask before I tried to switch the brush holders. Thanks for your time. Even though I didn’t get it running I learned a lot and feel pretty good about it. But the goal isn’t quite met. 😂

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's not going to run if the brush holders are reversed. Make sure your brushes are actually seated though before you take it apart again. Take the brush holder caps off and use a wooden toothpick to press down through the spring to make sure the brushes are all the way down. I've seen new brushes that are just slightly larger than the originals and need a bit more help than the springs give them getting seated all the way to the commutator.

[@aslynnhuisheere3136]

@@BobFowlerWorkshop I already reversed the brush holders and it wasn’t that! I’m gonna try to do the toothpick trick and see if that will work. The pedal is brand new so I know that works. Thanks Bob!

[@aslynnhuisheere3136]

@@BobFowlerWorkshop that was it!! The brushes just needed to be seated correctly! I can’t believe it works. Yay!!!!!!!!!! Ok. Next step! Thank you so much Bob!

[@aslynnhuisheere3136]

It will run. But then the carbon brushes are sparking and it only runs for a minute and then I have to reseat the brushes.

[@monmowimarciga5052]

Hi Bob. Thanks for your videos, very very useful, straight to the point, btw you have a nice deep voice. Thanks again. I have to change cables before I blow up my 201. 😊 oh a Q. The 2 cables from the motor wich one goes in #2 and #3? Could be any?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

It doesn't matter which motor wire goes to which terminal, as long as they are connected to 2 & 3.

[@monmowimarciga5052]

@@BobFowlerWorkshop Thank you Bob.

[@randycramer1013]

@@BobFowlerWorkshop and when you wire in a controller they go to 1 and 2?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

@@randycramer1013 yes, that's correct. A controller goes to 1 and 2.

[@randycramer1013]

@@BobFowlerWorkshop Thanks, as always, for your time 👊

[@jimbobmattice9096]

I noticed that when you installed the new grease wicks, in your video you said they were 5/16 grease wicks bu5 in your info it is listed as 3/16. Also just wondering if you used shrink tubing on the new wires that come out of the motor and go to the terminal block. Great video learned a lot,thanks.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Yes, I misspoke about the wick size which is why I posted the part # in the description. I use a lot of shrink tubing, and often, but not always, use it to bind the wires from the motor to the terminal block, but some people don't want that done. Glad you liked the video!

[@brianpetersen8521]

Thank you!!!! I have a couple of questions/requests: 1. Can you post any information about the gunsmithing screw driver set you have. 2. I didn’t find the fiber washer in the armature when I removed it. Any idea how I can find one of those? 3. Any idea where I can source the 2 screws that hold on the bobbin winder?

[@brianpetersen8521]

Also - any ideas where to locate the rubber grommet for electrical wires to pass through? Hesitate to buy so many in bulk because don’t anticipate using them all.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Hey Brian - The screwdriver set is available from a lot of source, including Amazon. Just search for "Chapman screwdriver set 9600". If your motor didn't have a fiber washer, don't worry. The washers were used as needed to adjust clearances, and it's possible yours didn't need it.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Email me at [e-mail]. I can help...

[@aslynnhuisheere3136]

What happens if your brush holders are in the opposite slots? If you don’t keep track of which one is which?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

That's a good question. I never tried that, but I suspect one of two things. Either nothing will work, or the motor runs backwards, but that's only a guess...

[@michaeltexeira6185]

Motor will change rotation. Poops 😅😅😅

[@jomercer21113]

Are you going to craft up some of those brush holder taps to sell?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

No, but when I get back in a few days, I'll post a measured drawing of it so people can make their own... It's really not hard to do...

[@jomercer21113]

I pickedup my $35 1954 Singer 201-2 yesterday--it hasn't had any wiring work done and needs it. So many gauges and types listed! What wire do I need to order?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

You'll want 18 gauge, either stranded hookup wire or lamp cord, either will work. The other supplies are listed in the video description.

[@traylc11]

Is there someone you could recommend to do this for me that I could ship mine to. I have a 1948 Singer just like yours that I’m trying to restore for my daughter. Her grandmother recently passed and left it to her.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Email me at [e-mail] and we can chat about it...

[@colleenacourtney]

I stripped one of the set screws on the worm gear and one of the brushes came off the spring and is stuck inside. Any ideas on how I can I get that brush out?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Email me at [e-mail] for a phone number and we can discuss your options...

[@Mary-xn7zx]

It’s nice to hear what you’re doing but it would be great if we could SEE what you’re doing!!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

There is an updated version of this video with better lighting as well as better camera angles. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4i2imyBft-KZs0

[@bridgetpasternak9102]

Hi Bob, I’m rewiring a 201 with my dad. The machine is missing the fiber washer on the shaft of the armature. Can you tell us where we might order another one from?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Not all motors have them. I don't have a source, unfortunately. I have made washers from card stock in the past though...

[@soorb77]

My understanding is that these machines are hot on the machine end. 110 volt in US and 230 volt in EU hot that is 😮. Wouldn’t a ground wire be a good thing to have? In 1851 and in to the early 1970 grounding wasn’t a standard in homes.But we know better today. So my question is, do you upgrade a ground on them or do you leave them as original?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

I would agree that grounding would be a good thing, but I wire them as originally made. Adding a ground may be possible, but would be impossible with the existing connectors at the machine end.

[@soorb77]

@@BobFowlerWorkshop you can but you have to rewire the pedal, the motor and the light. I think a small thing to do for better safety.

[@soorb77]

​ @BobFowlerWorkshop I also want to say. I'm working on a restoration of my 66. and you're videos have been a big help. thanks for a great channel! 🙂

[@lindaa.9741]

Bob, when you have motors as dirty as this on the inside, is that just a result of many years of use, or are there things that a user does that exacerbates the 'Schmoo" and that can be avoided? ......(and if you are curious why I'm watching an old video again, I had a complex rotator cuff surgery and am without use of my right (dominant) arm for 8 weeks. I can't do much with one hand, so I'm living in Bob Fowler KZbin Land instead!)

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

YIKES! Feel better soon!!! This much crud and schmoo is usually a result of time and lack of maintenance. It's all well and good to lubricate the motor, but it's even better to clean it out BEFORE lubricating it... Much of the resi is just carbon from the brushes wearing, which is completely normal.

[@jomercer21113]

How many tubes of the Singer lube are needed to fill this motor?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

If you're using the white Singer Motor Lubricant, one should do it, but get two so you have some extra.

[@candydeister]

What do you think of using TriFLOW Clear Synthetic Grease in the grease ports? I use it on my Featherweight and other vintage machines.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

No! The melting point is all wrong! Do not use that in motors, instead, use the Sew Retro grease sold by the Featherweight Shop.

[@terrigelbaum8066]

I don't know why everyone uses Triflow.......I use vasoline ,works great and Singer used to recommend using it themselves ..

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

@@terrigelbaum8066 I think it's because a lot of people love the Triflow oil. Personally, I don't get it, Lilly White SMO has been the standard for ages, and if your even the slightest bit anal retentive about machine maintenance, there's no need to spend the extra money. I have a supply of a grease that works great, but it's not something readily available to the public, so I don't advocate it. Instead, I aim people at Sew Retro, which even though it's expensive, is definitely safe to use. Vaseline is fine too, and I have used it in the past, but if you live in warmer climates, it can tend to get messy.

[@jwgall]

Great informative video…my dad (RIP) worked for Singer in Elizabethport in NJ for many,many years. He rewired motors for a living. He always told me never ever use Vaseline as the melting point is way too low. Singer had a special grease for this that they don’t make anymore. I still have tubes of this, but it’s way to old to use. Again…thanks

[@rebeccaw6]

When I took my motor apart I noticed the washer on the armature is almost worn away. I’m not sure what to replace it with. Do you know what material the washer is made out of? Or if there is somewhere I need to order it from? I am doing the potted motor on a 15-91.

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Most of those washers are either a very thin plastic or some kind of fiber washer. They usually don't wear out. The purpose of the washer is adjusting end play in the motor shaft. Considering how old the motor has to be, the couple of thousandths thickness of the washer is probably way out of spec by now. The adjusters manual doesn't say anything about the specs for end play or runout of the motor shaft. Honestly, I'm not sure making those measurements is something regular techs would be able to do as it would involve very specialized equipment. Put the one back in that came out is my advice... Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

[@rebeccaw6]

@@BobFowlerWorkshop thank you for your reply!!

[@michaeltexeira6185]

It’s called fibre washers. Get different thickness,,,you can polish it down to fit snug in motor end play. I done hundreds.

[@onamissionize]

Who is AVE? do you have a link?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Caution: May be wicked funny, and some language is a bit salty for work. May not be suitable for children, but IS suitable for guys who never grew up... kzbin.info

[@jomercer21113]

what size are the brushes?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Don't know off the top of my head, but I can measure them when I get back in a few days...

[@omarromero6525]

Yo tengo una de las mismas maquinas pero el motor se hiso muy lento

[@terrigelbaum8066]

Why is that fiber washer so important?

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Not all motors have the fiber washer, some have thin plastic washers. They are more important in the "can" type motors as they adjust endplay of the rotating mass within the case. That's not what's going on in the potted motors. In potted motors, they are more for positioning or the armature and commutators.

[@adriananoelle4699]

Can I pay you to restore my 201-2 motor? I purchased a machine on eBay, it arrived today, and it began sewing slowly, and then the motor just died. The light is the only thing that works. I tried to supply current directly to the motor, and no luck. Thank you!

[@michaeltexeira6185]

I have 2 221 Singer Featherweight. Ans one 222. Loaded with alll accessories,including 100 pack each machine. Original case. Make me a offer. In 🇨🇦🇨🇦