Six Common Mistakes Made When Recapping Vintage Electronics

Short little video on common mistakes seen when recapping (replacing capacitors) vintage electronics. This would include vintage stereos, radios, equipment, CBs, ham radio receivers & transmitters, calculators, computers, you name it.
Hopefully this will provide you some tips and hints to use when you go to recap your piece of vintage gear.
Topics include:
- Mistaking Factory Glue for Leaking Capacitors
- Factory Boards and Manuals Marked Wrong
- Capacitors Installed Incorrectly
- Using Larger Capacitors Than Specified
- Buying Electrolytic Capacitors off Ebay
- Replacing Everything at Once

[@Graham_Wideman]

And the number 1 mistake... failing to pull out your cell phone and take a few pictures before you start pulling out capacitors.

[@horussees]

Didnt make that mistake with caps on an old valve amp, but i did with the resistors, both photos and thinking 70 year old resistors have same tolerances as new stock. Caps worked well an improved operation. I destroyed the project by replacing resistors...😢 (only a hobbist, not classically trained)

[@xxmrrickxx]

Nice video. Seeing gear with surface mount PCBs considered “vintage” makes me feel old.

[@mudspringer]

"Trust what's on the board not what's in the manual..." Ha yes! I write code for a living. One of the first things they taught us was it maters what the computer does - not what the manual says. Great video thanks for posting it!!

[@fins59]

As a retired electronics tech I can say that this is good advice. I've subscribed because your video is clear & succinct and not padded out to 30 mins like many others do.

[@anmeirdi]

Two important issues when recapping with a higher value; 1. never do this with starting capacitors in motors, they need the exact right value. 2. Recapping with a much larger value in a power supply can cause damage to the bridge rectifier, because the current peak when staring up, is much higher then. An other important issue is the temperature which is mentioned on the capacitor. The switching power supplies before the 1990's often used capacitors, marked with 85°C. This was also one of the reasons of the caused problems. Always use 105°C capacitors for switching power supplies!

[@Strike_Raid]

If you're recaping really old stuff (20's and 30's era), capacitors had a lot of internal conductance that was accounted for in the original circuit that new capacitors don't have. You may need to add a resistor in parallel to keep the circuit 'in tune', and guessing the size of that resistor is really just a guess.

[@MarvinHartmann452]

That's what I did when I reccaped my Victor RE-45. It works amazing. That's a very good advice for people who don't know.

[@ianuragaggarwal]

Interesting 😮

[@wmw8453]

Not "Good Stuff". This is "GREAT STUFF". Informative, concise and pragmatic. Bravo Sir!

[@johnrobinson560]

Great video and full of info. Had VCR many years ago with Alzheimer's. Sometimes responded to controls sometimes not. After hours of troubleshooting and consultation with others in the biz, turned out it was an adhesive foam pad (several) on bottom of circuit board between it and metal bottom of machine. After removing pads found affected traces in different states of degradation . The adhesive had eaten into traces and was semi-conducting between them, thus the Alzheimer's symptoms. No clue until pads actually removed to see damage. Rock solid after repair. Do not underestimate any "material" on a board to cause trouble.

[@jpreza]

Great advice!! I'm guilty of the shotgun approach because I wanted to listen to my vintage receiver right away. More than once, I spent more time trying to figure out where I went wrong with my DMM, hooking up my DBT, reading voltage/current values through everything and trying to read the blurry values from a scanned service manual, playing the AM/FM tuner, hooking up a turntable and using the phono/EQ board, etc. etc. You get the idea. Take your time. Do one section at a time, and then test your receiver. Another piece of advice is pay attention to the orientation of new transistors vs. old ones. Some older transistors tend to have EBC instead of a more modern ECB.

[@em0_tion]

"Smooth, rounded, flow. Smooth, rounded, flow. Smooth, flowing, stuff." I meditated and achieved internal peace there, what a voice! :D

[@leroyusa935]

What's nice about troubleshooting stereo equipment is that the channel that is in good working order can be a good reference for measurement comparisons. Hard to find problematic components can be detected this way. Just make sure that your reference input signals are exactly the same for the left and right channels. An oscilloscope can also be an excellent visual aid to compare for abnormalities in the defective channel.

[@randycarter2001]

That glue when it turns brown, instead of yellow, is actually CONDUCTIVE. Especially if it is near something that is starting to corrode. I've fixed many malfunctioning electronics just by chipping that glue off. When it turns brown it becomes brittle facilitating this.

[@tableseven8133]

In the past I had resolved CPU problems as well due to the heat sink compound getting on the CPU pins or on the visible CPU circuit. Wiped off the compound on those pins or other contact points and the computer worked fine then..

[@porkchop3656]

It next turns corrosive and eats the legs off components it’s in contact with.

[@callishandy8133]

@@porkchop3656 Yes acid (or caustic soda or other)

[@davidlong1786]

One thing I would add, having worked on computer monitors in the past ( 25 years ago) some brands had that hold down glue that would over time become unstable from heat and age and become conductive on the board. We had to scrape it all off and clean the board really well.

[@Joetechlincolns]

AKA, Sony Bond. It affects all kinds of electronics. If it starts to turn dark brown or darker, get it off the board.

[@frankpitochelli6786]

That's a great point.!!, I too have seen glue become conductive and cause many problems in TV's.

[@QoraxAudio]

lol yeah the white glue is okay most of the time, but that transparent stuff is nasty. Another fun one are those fancy looking motherboards with chipset coolers that have stickers/decals on them... those come loose over time because of heat and get trapped in the fans.

[@RennieAsh]

KRK monitors had some black stuff where the liquid would seep out and cause corrosion, the rest of the glue became brittle. Have to remove that and hopefully before components are so wrecked you can;t even see what they were

[@j.lietka9406]

@@Joetechlincolns is that still common? Thanks

[@Rizzlino_Music]

I am preparing to do some repairs on my Tascam M-30 and Teac Model 5 mixers. This is a great list of things to know and I'm grateful to learn these tips before I dive in.

[@8068]

From someone who has rebuilt vintage electronics this video is EXCELLENT. Every new electronics tech should see this video.

[@toddzeillanski2054]

#BIGFACTS & #2Thumbs&BigToes^UP^

[@hullinstruments]

These are the types of videos that help me the most. That cover all types of electronics not just radios and such. I repair vintage and modern electronics, mostly test equipment and industrial electronics. A lot of motor drives, PLCs, and a lot of automation control equipment. I do see a lot of 1980s equipment that is still in service so I recap and repair a lot of stuff like that… And these are the videos that help me the most. Although I do enjoy radio repair, I don’t do it very often so these general subject videos that cover a broader range of electronics are extremely helpful!

[@srtamplification]

Great point about the boards and schematics being marked wrong!!!!

[@sw6188]

I see this a lot. Even units where the manufacturer has marked the board incorrectly, and fitted capacitors backwards because they followed the board markings!

[@fflynnful]

On an old R-R tape recorder that I recapped recently, the electrolytic caps had a stripe on the side to indicate polarity. Unfortunately, as I discovered after replacing many capacitors, the stripe on the old caps marks the (+) positive lead rather than the negative end as on newer capacitors. I had to remove, test and reinstall every cap I replaced, since powering up a cap with wrong polarity can damage it. So, watch out for that too!

[@barnabywilde374]

Good point! I've seen this too on older Toa amps!

[@PunakiviAddikti]

I once encountered an LED which had the flat marking on the positive lead. It should be on the negative lead. I was so confused.

[@kendoty2463]

Diode: mismarked; ☺1 in thousands; thank God I cheched 'em all!

[@andygozzo72]

@@PunakiviAddikti yep, i have some like that, you must never assume the polarity, double check

[@chriskwakernaat2328]

wrongly polarized caps make nice fireworks , ask me how i know..

[@alexispieltin9379]

This video is excellent, your methodology is all common sense for anyone experienced in servicing electronics. However, when it comes to factory glue, even if you can still identify it correctly, you must remain cautious and always observe precautionary. Some of these glues have proven corrosive or decompose in corrosive material, so if you notice oxidized copper tracks, rotten component legs, you'll probably have to remove that goo, restore PCB and probably change all components touched, resistors and semiconductors. Leaky caps can also smell badly: most of leaky SMD electrolytic capacitors include a fish oil impregnating everything. And here is also an important point, most quality electrolytics can still work fine after years if used and stored in proper condition. You also need specific equipment to check and test if they really need some replacement: you should measure values and ESR, and for specific uses like high voltage ones, a specific leakage test has to be performed. Of course, with experience or proper documentation, you have a number of specific condensers you will systematically change in 100% of equipment, mostly because their replacement is critical and always cheaper than the component they protect, like high voltage decoupling caps in tube electronics. And when it comes to components locations or sense, wiring and so, it's also interesting to take a number or pictures and notes along markings. Rule number one is to take the necessary time to observe and analyse any further action.

[@OzRetrocomp]

Great video, with many good points raised. Re: not trusting board markings. There's at least one infamous example in the computer world: one revision of the Sinclair ZX Spectrum shows incorrect polarity markings for one of its capacitors, which has caught many people out over the years (resulting in many dead ZX Spectrums in the process). As for marking capacitors i.e. the "measure twice cut once" tip, taking clear high res photos of the board you're about to work on _prior_ to starting on it is also a very good idea IMHO.

[@wtmayhew]

I recently replaced the electrolytic capacitors in a GE digital tuned clock radio from the late 1970s or early ‘80s which was too nice to throw out. Being on for 40 years 24x7 took its toll. The symptoms were erratic operation such as the alarm beep going off at random times and poor audio quality. As I pulled the capacitors, I checked them with an M Cubed Electonix impedance bridge and found about 1/4 of the capacitors had only about 1/3 their rated capacitance. Quite a few capacitors had also developed unreasonably high effective series resistance, as much as 30+ Ohms. After my order for capacitors of the same proper values and withstand voltages arrived from Digikey, it took a few hours to swap all the electrolytic capacitors. Since there were so many off value parts, I decided to replace all of the aluminum electrolytic capacitors so that I would not have to go back to replace more parts later. After a few hours of patient work, everything was good to go and the radio sounds great again. If you follow the advice in this video you’ll almost certainly have a good outcome with more life from your old equipment.

[@speed2998]

A possible exception to your suggestion against "shotgun" recapping is when restoring very old equipment. 50 or 60 year old electrolytics are often shorted, or nearly so. Turning on the equipment with such caps in the power supply can cause serious damage. The same applies to interstage coupling caps in tube amplifiers. If those are electrically leaky, B+ will flow to the grid of the next stage and that is also damaging.

[@MikeSweeneyMedia]

I shot gun the caps in my vintage repairs. These caps are 40+ years old and way past their lifetime expectancy. And for s**ts and grins, I 'll use my ESR which says "yep.. it's fine" and use my old Heathkit leakage checker. 80% of the "good" caps fail leakage tests. The exception to this rant seems to be the smaller electrolyics normally used in the radio RX boards for example. Most of those I replace with WIMA anyways.. I hate having to redo my work. And fixing a unit just to have a ancient cap fail a few laters is stupid. I also replace driver transistors for the same reason. You have no idea how abused they are so I just replace them since I already have the unit apart on the bench. Zeners go to for the same reason. Carbon resistors in amplifier boards get replaced because most of drifted a fair bit and will continue to drift as they age even more. And I should say, I don't "repair" my projects.. I "restore" or "rebuild" them.. just like a car. And lets be clear.. this is my opinion.. nothing more. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. My clients are happy with mine and how I do the work :)

[@goodun2974]

@@MikeSweeneyMedia , Yeah, if you have to undo the dial string mechanism in order to pull up the RF, IF, and/ or MPX board (often those circuits are combined on one single long PC board), you want to be really certain that recapping is done with known good caps, and that you fix any problems or potential problems before you put the whole shebang back together.

[@davidhitchen5369]

I see your point. His advice is good if you are recapping something that works already.

[@pattyeverett2826]

Yes, better to replace the electrolytic and paper caps than destroying transformers and such that are made of "unobtainium" now. I do the same on old tube stuff.

[@PunakiviAddikti]

Oh definitely, old caps can short out. So can small smd ceramic caps if they develop a micro fracture from mechanical stress.

[@cryptout]

The tip on wrongly printed polarity was new to me, thanks for that 👍

[@BeastlyKings]

Same! I just finished recapping a TS-530S, and I checked each ones polarity as I pulled it out, just in case the marking on the board was buried somehow. But I never thought it could be wrong! I'll be marking my caps orientation before pulling them from now on!

[@boeing757pilot]

While I don't work in the industry, I do electronic repair for myself. Marking the orientation is a great idea. I have removed caps only to then question the orientation on the board. I now mark orientation on everything I remove (for the most part).

[@mrnapolean1]

I order my caps from Mouser because 1. they typically have good prices, 2. they usually have what im looking for and in stock and 3. I order over the phone to do Will-Call because I live about 20 minutes from the warehouse and I can typically have my Caps the same day or next day and avoid the shipping charge altogether.

[@ltgood]

I just learnt so much from this short clip. I just dismantled a 1970s JVC amp to repair. I’m so glad I haven’t started on removing parts.

[@philhemenway3503]

When I derate caps on a recap job I usually derate on the next voltage up, no more. I always test new caps, you never know. I always test the caps coming out as a learning experience. Good video.

[@philhemenway3503]

One more, I usually recap no more then four caps then do an operation check. Just in case you have back track.

[@BeastlyKings]

@@philhemenway3503 not a bad idea, but depending on how hard it is to access the boards or get them back into circuit, that could really add up in time lost! One section at a time seems reasonable compromise

[@CycloneCyd]

Great suggestion, but my Q is: how do you test capacitors?

[@philhemenway3503]

@@CycloneCyd There are many cap meters avaiable or your DVM may have a cap measuring capability.

[@stevewilson6193]

This is great advice. I definitely see these same issues when recapping. Thanks for putting this out there!

[@recitalaudio3526]

Thanks to made this video , I usually recap 70’s amp & Receivers This can be great information for who want to recap in first time 👍👍

[@stevenm3141]

Very good info from years of experience! The best kind. Thank you. You have brought to mind things I wouldn't have thought of until after.

[@Bobbr3]

Great advice. Very enlightening. Thanks for sharing the information!

[@robertcunningham1542]

Great video with lots of good points. I would caution about using a replacement electrolitic capacitors with with a voltage a lot higher then the original. Such as putting a 350 volt in place of a 25 volt because it won't stay properly formed with the lower working voltage. While it is not in the scope of this video, all that glue on those circuit boards, that some over time degrades and becomes caustic and conductive. As long as you are replacing the capacitors, you should remove the glue as well. Once again this is a great video, keep them coming when you can, stay safe and have a wonderful holidays.

[@andygozzo72]

yep, dont go too higher in voltage , and yes some types of glue definitely cause trouble, in some cases causes corrosion and track or wire damage

[@wedoshotz6645]

Tremendous waste of money too......if you could even squeeze it in.

[@bill-2018]

Yes, I remember years ago reading that too high a voltage isn't good for use at much lower voltages.

[@WolfgangMahringer]

Yep, and there is something else to consider too. E.g. with modern switching power supplies, ESR (=equivalent series resistance) is important. Higher voltage caps have higher ESR than lower voltage one with same capacity, which is a bad thing. So, going a little higher may be ok, but not much higher.

[@jmiles1960]

excellent video! I am learning as I go and your videos are very helpful! Thanks for your efforts and contribution to the hobby!

[@Mork007]

Thank you sir. Excellent video and tips especially taking the one section at a time approach.

[@deebru8354]

Excellent presentation. I learned a lot. Thank you!

[@va3ngc]

Excellent video. Lots of stuff there I hadn't considered before. Good point about the board errors.

[@matthewmathis62]

This is a really great video! Thank you. It comes from someone that has a lot of experience, and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Thank you!

[@brufty193]

Fabulous advice, very informative & interesting, thanks.

[@cosmicray007]

Thank you for putting the time into this video and helping keep us all safe.

[@jked7463]

Good info...as always. Been needing to recap the power supply of my cassette deck. So very helpful.

[@Sam-jd3sz]

Wonderful message it will save time and patience. Thank you

[@ovalwingnut]

Wonderful! Back 2 Basics will never go out of style. Thank you

[@Sans_Solo_]

Just finished doing a complete recapp of an eBay purchased Philips 6731 tuner. I broke your last rule. I did the full recapp all at once. Plugged it in and NO SOUND! All the boards are easily removeable on this tuner with pins that plug into each board. After some troubleshooting I discovered a single pin/plug, that plugs into the RF board, had slipped down out of position (not making contact) So I applied some heat to the pin, in it's plastic housing, and slid it back into place. The unit now works absolutely fine. I think what happed is this unit uses 13 incandescent light bulbs inside (equivalent to 25 watts running inside the case!!! which I think caused the pin to slide out of position) I replaced all org. bulbs with LED. Fine sounding tuner!

[@jackman00110101]

Learning this for vintage studio equipment. THANKS

[@eduugr]

Awesome tips Sir!!! Thank you very much

[@AlreadyThere1965]

Some great points to take into consideration. Thanks for the video.

[@raghuyedatore6353]

Awesome tips, especially the one on the shotgun approach. Thank you!

[@Zonfeair]

I particularly liked the point that there are factory mistakes as I have found several over the years but did not know about mistakes in service manuals nor was I aware of silk screen mistakes on circuit boards. Thanks for the info.

[@mistermac56]

Back in 2000, I bought a factory refurbished Pioneer Elite 5.1 surround receiver. I noticed on the back of the receiver, there was a white dot sticker next to where the AC line cord came out of the receiver. I looked it up on the internet and what the white dot sticker was there was a recall of the model receiver I purchased because the power supply capacitors were installed backward during manufacturing. The white dot sticker indicates that this issue was resolved during the factory refurbishment process. I just performed a capacitor replacement on the receiver, and also checking resistors and bias and DC offset. I replaced capacitors and some resistors that had some evidence of thermal stress. I replaced them methodically using the non-shotgun method. And yes, the marking on the PC board for the power supply capacitors had a sticker covering the incorrect polarity and had the correct marking printed on the sticker.

[@afzaalkhan.m]

Very vital information when replacing caps.in vintage equipment. Thank you

[@garthhowe297]

Good video. Never thought about marking the tops of caps ... good idea!

[@eloyex]

neither do I .. very good one ...

[@teijostahl4380]

Number tops of caps 1, 2,3.. etc, in order, now you know polarity and position after removing from circuit.

[@JeffCounsil-rp4qv]

I take lots of photos too. Your cell phone camera can be a real friend here. ;-)

[@alverduratonejunkiealveram1017]

Thank you for sharing your experience!!!

[@brasilianguy5437]

Nice tips; the last one indeed is the best. Regarding polarity mistakes, I've seen once one board with some pen corrections.

[@malcolmdwyer6967]

thank you -very good video and excellent tips. makes a lot of sense regarding doing 1 at a time and testing.

[@bnallc]

Incredible vid. Thanks for sharing your wisdom

[@TheWobblyCameraGuy]

Same as Storm 1 below - your video just popped up, but I'm glad it did as I found your video to be very informative and interesting - thankyou for posting it

[@viperocco]

Well I'm guilty of number 1. Great tips. Thank you

[@lapisredux]

i'm glad i watched this before recapping any vintage electronics.

[@Soulfood68]

Thanks you so much, You gave answers to a lot of questions I "had" before I watched this. I feel much more comfortable recapping my old Luxkit A3000 and A3032 after I watched this.

[@pabloluchi3595]

I really appreciate this video with the explanations and advices. I think every electronic technician should keep this in mind always to proceed any repair. I wrote all in my notebook! Thank you! Best Regards!

[@jakobholm1847]

Nice video! I use to snap a bunch of pictures of the PCBA before I start working. Nice way to keep track of orientations, values, and such. It has saved me a few times with bad PCB polarity markings as you showed here.

[@callishandy8133]

Thumps up Often I take pictures with my wirless phone. And every time I mark the capacitor (and the orientation from connectors). I use often diffenrent colours. I mark capacitors on top and at the PCB with a small dot.

[@johnrehwinkel7241]

Note: you don't want to go a lot higher in voltage with electrolytics, as you run the risk of them not "forming" properly. Note that the fake restuffed "bumblebee" capacitor may well be more reliable than a genuine one.

[@denisconnolly5064]

Yes, in addition to that the higher the voltage rating the higher the ESR.

[@blugoose86]

Great advice, thanks for sharing!

[@jettramel]

Glad I caught this, recapping some old stuff, soon a 70's Pioneer, this is going to save me some head aches.

[@glasslinger]

The mis marked circuit boards can get very interesting when power is applied! We blew up two brand new sets of capacitors before we caught on!

[@biswajeetsingh4994]

Very informative video not only for newbies but for experienced ones too. Great guide. Love you man and thanks.

[@johnnyb1368]

Excellent information on Caps👍 This is the way.

[@cfinlay6428]

This video is great, common sense and we'll worth watching! That shotgun tip is solid gold, I kind of had that one worked out already but to have it confirmed by an expert is really satisfying, the same for the rest of this excellent video...thanks!

[@jimnjele.bean-dayone3505]

Great advise !! Outstanding video !! Thank You

[@tonys78rpmrecords]

Excellent video i am just learning about this stuff and this video has a lot of useful info. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@KpxUrz5745]

Good information and much appreciated.

[@hycarl.1623]

thanks for the insight of your experience, no wonder i followed through my amplifier’s service manual , even looking at the board themselves, and just to fry out poping my capacitors eventhough i believed i had done everything correctly. As much as i love my amplifier, taken extra care and steps , sometimes things happens.

[@wes11bravo]

Outstanding advice, my friend.

[@buitenb]

Great explanation ! Thanks for your video .

[@gortnewton4765]

Excellent tips. Thank you.

[@yourdiytechlife]

Fantastic video! The shotgun approach advice was great!👍👍

[@DavidL-ii7yn]

All great tips. Thank you!

[@Storm_.]

Never seen your videos before, this popped up, I do a lot of vintage re-capping & I learned some good lessons here, especially the shotgun approach info :)

[@callbackdons]

Right? That tip alone was firmly worth the time for the vid. It's deceptively obvious now, but I can imagine falling into the trap otherwise!

[@pzftw]

My expectations were low when I started this video, I was expecting "don't reverse the polarity of electrolytic capacitors" and "make sure the foil end of the capacitor is connected the ground side", neither of these points were covered, instead all the tips were fresh and thought provoking. Very enjoyable!

[@NordicDan]

I thought I was pretty foolproof in identifying component glue, but in your example picture I would've been convinced that the upper right and lower left pics were leaked electrolite. I work in electronics and am working on getting into restoring (and in some cases modernizing) antique radios as a hobby, so videos like these have been good for picking up on stuff I wouldn't have realized right away with vintage stuff. Great video.

[@blujack100]

Great tips and the reason I watched this is I have a sansui 7 receiver like what you showed. Some day I may need to repair it but so far it still works great since the day I bought it in the mid 70’s. Thanks

[@chatrkat]

Great tips, excellent video. Even guys that work on equipment regularly can get benefit from watching this. I learned something here thank you.

[@MotoFelipe]

Very good advice! Thanks a lot!

[@NeptuneAlpheccaChild]

loved the tip on not using the shotgun approach cuz that's the way i would have done my AV receiver... you may have saved me before i even got started !!!

[@glenz1975]

That was my post you featured in relation to the Sansui 9090 power supply polarity markings in the video, pretty cool, Thanks! 😎👍

[@RobMods]

Great advice. Thanks for the video.

[@tubeDude48]

At 00:55, The top-left CAPs have that rubbery glue to stop the component from vibration, (i.e.) subwoofer cabinet.

[@MikinessAnalog]

Remember the era when people used to mount their amplifier directly on the subwoofer box itself? LOL I made a lot of easy money repairing amps because the vibration had shaken loose anything heavy or tall. XD (the amps were usually mounted sideways)

[@Vim-Wolf]

Thanks for the flag up on the potential issues with board markings and service manuals. I've come across it myself, so what I always do is photograph what I'm about to remove and always refer back to the photo when I'm replacing.

[@fitzroywilliams1136]

I leaned a few tips from your video. Thanks.

[@Andre-on5kr]

Great common sense info. I got caught on the last item in your list when I recapped a Hallicrafters s-86. Won’t happen again! Thanks for producing videos like this one. I enjoy your channel very much.

[@johnrees44..G4EIJ]

Excellent advice..Many thanks..JR..UK

[@tygertyger8597]

Great pointers for doing things right.

[@dannyshortwave]

Good tips. Thank you for sharing.

[@edwardwood5757]

Lovely video - very pragmatic- thanks !

[@phd3333]

Really good information. Thank you.

[@CHICO976]

excellent information ..thanks

[@astroporpoise7802]

Thanks so much for your guidance, I'm learning a lot! :)

[@TheMirolab]

Just the tip on marking the orientations on the tops was worth the whole video!... lots of great tips..... Thanks!

[@GeorgeWMays]

Thanks for the tips. They are appreciated.

[@sirsuse]

I've also experienced improper markings on Marantz gear. Very good advice for all techs. Thank you.

[@Mikexception]

It is really valuable author' advice with markings. Simple and clear. Also not bad idea today is to make sharp photo of board (with flash) with parts and connections in original placement. And to study original schematic for tracing damages - this saves unnecessary replacements which do not help and degrade overall condition .

[@infinagon]

Great video and good info. Thank you