Skoda Fabia REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS (99-07)

In this video I show you how to remove and re-fit a rear shock absorber on a Skoda Fabia MK1 6Y2 1.9 TDI hatchback 99-07 which is similar to other Skoda Fabia models
Fit shock absorbers in pairs
Use new fixings (apologies for some images showing old fastenings after fitting new shock absorber - this was a mistake in editing)
Fitting shock absorbers in pairs balances the car's suspension for safe driving and braking
Gedore mechanics tool set amzn.to/3zR45Ma
Road wheels 120Nm
Torx T25 screws
16mm M10x35mm top strut bolts 30Nm + 90 deg
17mm M10x 75x45 bottom strut bolt 40+ 90 deg
Strut top self-lock nut 17mm M10 25Nm
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[@DJGarthie]

Thank you for this video! I went mad searching the internet for the correct dimension on the bolts and nuts!

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Glad I could help :-)

[@jitheshkk8447]

It's a great video with step by step details. Really helpful.

[@KalashGarage]

Need to do the exact same thing + the springs front and rear :)) , great video .

[@dopxchxf2726]

Great video as always, liked it! I would love to see you make a video how to remove central console and fix a cigarette lighter socket.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Glad you like the vids, greatly appreciated. I was thinking of doing the central console, but I remember it is wasn't an easy job on the fabia. I will look into how to take it out easily and do a video when it is warmer, freezing at the mo.

[@DataLog]

@@HatBoyHarvey Hey! I didn't remove the wheel, but I can see that the rubber is damaged and rust is showing. Is that enough reason to change the strut? If not, how should I determine if I need to change struts? A mechanic changed front struts last year, but since then I've seen that they often do it for no reason (car seemed ok to drive) so I don't want to get ripped off.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

@@DataLog Rust isn't much of an issue, the rubber is more concerning, but look for oil leakage down the shaft which is a tell tail for bad shocks. You can test them by pushing down on the car sharply - if it bounces a lot they aren't doing their job and leaving it all up to the spring which will bounce. They should return and stop. It is very important to change shocks when they get like this for safety. The car will still drive, but the handling will get progressively more dangerous until you loose control around a sharp bend, a hump bridge or braking hard. The rear shocks are easy to do and relatively cheap considering they could just save your life. Stay safe :-)

[@binrix9442]

Thank you

[@rd5216]

Good job. It’s very helpfull video. Thx.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

You're very welcome, glad it helped :-)

[@James.P.D]

Excellent thanks 👍

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Welcome 👍

[@Bashdar4]

Loved it great video 📹 👏

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Glad you enjoyed it :-)

[@TheSonycity]

Well presented.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

You're welcome :-)

[@frankiebye]

Brilliant video. Cheers HRH 👍

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Thanks 👍

[@colinblick4903]

Nice easy explanation…cheers… is yours the VRS?….. as you’ve discs on rear…… I’ve a phase 2 Monte Carlo with drums 😵‍💫😆

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Thanks, mine is the 100HP PD engine, sadly not a VRS. The suspension is 15mm lower on the VRS model with larger front discs and different hub.

[@jont132]

great vid, thanks very much

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Your very welcome, hope it helped.

[@jont132]

@@HatBoyHarvey yeah nice to know how to do a job b4 you start it... Went like a breeze. Thanks

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Your very welcome :-)

[@adamstockton67]

Great video been catching up on all you Skoda videos. Any chance in a video on replacing the centre air vents? Also some instruction on where you place the axel stands? Thanks

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Thanks, yes I could do the centre vents sometime, They need to be taken out with care as the surface can be scratched easily:-)

[@RandomClips27.]

​@@HatBoyHarvey do you know if I can buy the bottom bolt anywhere as I can't seem to find any apart from local b&q store is it ok to install them thanks

[@mbplove]

Are those VRs wheels, Im thinking of putting VRs wheels on my 6Y2 combi is any modification or spacers required?

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Nup, should go on without issue.

[@adamstockton67]

How do you torque up the nut that goes on top of the piston rod? As there is no way to hold the piston rod while using the torque wrench? Thanks for your help HatBoy

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Good question, The best way is to use a torque strut socket which has a slot in them to insert the Allen key and I don't have one. I have an adapter that fits my wrench, but it is an old designed tool and looks a bit naff. It works well, but I didn't want to show it. I think you can still get ring adapters, but they need to be short otherwise calculations are needed. 25Nm for these, which isn't much, hope it goes well :-)

[@Ikaruszaki]

@@HatBoyHarvey How about holding the strut rod in place with a pair of vice grips (with a cloth to prevent scoring)?

[@unicorntelecoms4387]

How does one torque the top nut? Guess it with a the swan neck, and check with torque wrench aye?

[@HatBoyHarvey]

You can get a top strut nut socket that is open on one side or a crow-foot spanner end or make something, which is what I have, but didn't show.

[@adamstockton67]

Where did you get the replacement shocks from? What make and how much were they? Thanks will be replacing mine this week.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Difficult one, These were CD units, but I don't want to recommend one make over another or these. Buy from trusted suppliers with extended guarantees if possible, online or shop. I've fitted what I thought were high end units and had them fail after a couple of years and had cheap ones that have lasted ages. ride quality should be the same if they are correct replacement for your specific model; review some online as much as possible, not all include new fixings. Expect to pay roughly £30-80/pr.

[@MrBentaylor874]

How long are the bolts? The top bolts are 16mm x (what exactly?) The bottom ones can be a little long as they don't get in the way of anything. Thanks in advance

[@HatBoyHarvey]

I've updated the bolt/nut sizes in the description. M10x35mm :-)

[@mikesimmonds1916]

Did you feel them gone when you dove it? I might have to do the ones on my fabia just not sure I'm sure they need it.

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Mine leaked oil some time ago, then started to knock over bumps. If you feel that something is not quite right over bumps and cornering at the rear then it could be the shocks and as they are fairly cheap to buy in standard form it is better to be safe as worn out suspension can be more lethal than you think.. ;-)

[@lisihoxha7388]

Hello my friend Please can you tell me when should i change shock absorbing i have 1.2 12V skoda fabia 141371 km

[@HatBoyHarvey]

80-160,000 km as a matter of course. (rears are relatively cheap) check their function by pushing down quickly on the rear, if they bounce easily and soft - replace. If they knock over bumps - replace. If they show signs of oil leak on there shafts - replace. Hope this helps :-)

[@RobertMaiT]

Hola.. por favor necesito me ayude con una información, cual es el (OEM) número de parte del Caliper posterior? Yo tengo un Fabia con frenos ABS a gasolina, en mi país Ecuador no encuentro el Caliper del eje posterior, por favor ayúdeme indicando el código para poder comprarlo. 🙏🏼 Te agradezco mucho

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Depende del motor y del año del modelo para qué calibre de freno y tamaño de disco se ajustan al skoda. Ellos son diferentes. uno de los mejores métodos es medir el tamaño del disco ya que esto es lo que definirá la pinza.

[@nevzatcercioglu4301]

Hello Mr. HatBoyHarvey,,,I want to consult you about something... I have the same model vehicle (2006 Skoda Fabia 1.2)... When I insert the starter key and start the vehicle, the mileage needles, engine speed needles and all the needles do not move for a few seconds and they do not move. they are shaking on the ground...This takes a few seconds and then they work properly...I would appreciate it if you could help me with this... WITH RESPECT and LOVE

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Probably an electrical connection issue, disconnect the earth lead on the battery and the take out the instrument binical. Clean the connectors with electrical contact spray then reconnect (often works). There could also be a failing part on the pcb or some dry solder joints which need checking out. Try the connectors first then if your feeling brave look at the pcb. Reflow any suspicious joints with a soldering iron (take extreme care or use an experienced electronics guy) Changing out the instrument cluster for a new one will need it to be adapted through OBDII vagcom etc.

[@nevzatcercioglu4301]

Mr. HatBoyu Harvey... Thank you very much for your interest and concern... Respect and love...

[@ubejdzrigue3922]

What is the wheel and tire size?

[@HatBoyHarvey]

16' VRS wheels with 205 45 tyres.

[@adamstockton67]

Where do you get your replacement hardware from I have just priced it up at the local Skoda garage £20 for (4 top bolts, 2 x locking nuts, 2 x nuts and bots at the bottom) this is for both sides?

[@HatBoyHarvey]

I like to buy the cheapest OEM, equal or better parts online (sometimes I also buy cheap) and check if they come as a KIT as these tend to include fastenings, but £20 for those doesn't sound too bad as you know they are to spec, which is the main thing. Eastern Europe can also be a good place for reputable Skoda guaranteed parts, if you speak the languages. Over the years I have found OEM parts can be expensive as many dealers hold their prices high, so you need to shop around (and rightly so). An important thing is never to go under the OEM spec as things such as tensile strength of many bolts often differs slightly so you need to check sometimes for important fixing such as bearing hub bolts.

[@adamstockton67]

Thank you

[@HatBoyHarvey]

your welcome, Have you put the shocks on now Adam? Have you felt an improvement in the ride?

[@AntonioTsonev]

fake taxi driver voice?