Thanks, yes very annoying they didn't consider this in UK as they have done in the USA. Not sure if all states have the release handle etc, but should have been a mandatory upgrade for all, whenever :-)

@@chrisdavies860 Thanks, I do try to make helpful videos. Feliz Navidad :-)

@@skodakatie7341 Feliz Navidad frm Spain

Wynns diesel injector cleaner. Cleaner sprayed into nozzles. Used an ultrasonic cleaner :-)

Great to hear :-)

@@zat-svi-car Thank you my friend for your support :-)

Thanks 👍

No. I wouldn't recommend putting anything on the threads as it is like the exhaust and could loosen. Some say use an anti seize high temp lube such as Permatex’ Nickel Anti- Seize Lubricant, but I wouldn't if you don't want leaks.

Yes, thanks, I keep meaning to get some of that, then forget :-/

So nice of you maty, thanks :-)

I use super speedy rice crispies for breakfast :-)

@@iamspartacus1128 Thanks, your right, but this time I messed up with those screws which isn't like me usually. I lost my patience a little I'm afraid, kicking myself! All back together and working so not too bad. Must try harder next time. At least I showed it real :-)

@HatBoyHarvey indeed, shows it how it is with no sugarcoating. You were under pressure to have it sorted for your trip so I wouldn't be too harsh on yourself, I hope your trip has gone well too, seasons compliments to you and keep the videos coming 👍💪

@iamspartacus1128 thanks for the words of encouragement, really appreciated ATM. I'm in Spain 🇪🇸 :-)

Nice video, can't believe you were working on it the day before your trip! I'd recommend trying Plusgas as well as someone else here.

@@rogerkretzschmar8280 Thanks, plus gas ordered. Stupid of me to do it so near to a long trip to Spain - fingers crossed for my return 🤞:-)

@@twinshobbytwinshobby3863 :-)

Thanks, bolt sizes in the description. No need to put the bolt upside down, often done without thought on the consequences. It is actually fairly easy to put it back in the right way once you know how :-)

@@HatBoyHarveyit’s just that I’ve read horror stories of the sub frame holding nut on the other side rusting off. It’s my only car and I can only do repairs on the street so didn’t want it to turn into another whole different job! I’ll make a decision when I get there fingers crossed it goes well.

There isn't a MAF sensor on your car, it is MAP sensor. Different setup, but you will find it on the intake side :-)

:-)

@wodkdk my guess would be: Skoda fabia mk1 rear door glass channel seal. I don't have access to the part number or I would give you it, sorry. These are hard to source unless you go to main dealers. If you can find the part number it would be easier. Perhaps you could find one in a breakers yard.

You are correct and what you did is good practice. I think tightening under load let's the subframe settle onto the body so it won't move anymore went tightening as not doing many in theory cause the subframe to slip on the body when driving later, shearing the bolt, I've never heard of this happening though ;-/

Dziękuję, bardzo proszę :-)

But be mindful you must take ALL of it out and not leave any part of that shaft or debri behind :-)

@@HatBoyHarvey Can you do the clutch next?

Thanks, what I did with it is another story or video :-/

I think the fuse is different, but the pump should be the same.

If the rust is that bad you will have to either cut more out back to solid metal or you may want to consider buying a complete new wheel well. Using a grinder is the easiest way to cut this out and don't forget to take the tank off first in case you blow yourself up, safety first. Good luck :-)

@@HatBoyHarveymany thanks. ill give this a try its wishbones and tracking rods today 🫡

check the voltage at the headlight end and ground Connection. I don't know if the central electrical control unit houses a relay for the headlights, but it may well do as I haven't found one elsewhere. If there is, it will be soldered to the pcb,, or be a solid-state device there. The headlight switch or connections may be faulty and worth checking. As I say, I would use a volt meter or test light and start at the light first.

Ahh, but can you tell which county from my accent? :-)

Thanks. Glad it was helpful :-)

Thanks, I'd do more if it wasn't so reliable :-)

@@martincox8250 You're very welcome :-)

Thank you, I will try to do just that :-)

I agree, hard work, especially when bolts/nuts break off :-/ it got worse stripping down the turbo!

Thanks, hope it helps someone :-)

I've found that it hasn't improved the mov as I thought so back to the drawing board :-)

@@coplandjason A lot of stuff to take off, but doable as long as the exhaust nuts come loose. Most were ok, only stripped one ;-)

@@HatBoyHarvey Saw that, you got lucky, personally I hate working on exhausts as you often have trouble with rotten studs and nuts. We've been having fun with our VRS, intercooler pipes kept popping off, the connectors are badly worn and just won't hold under boost so I'm ditching the crappy original intercooler and I've ordered a front mount version and the pipes to go with it. Also decided to deal with the alternator belt noise and ordered a new alternator pulley, new tensioner as it's hardly tensioning the belt at all and a new belt. Guess what I'll be doing over the Christmas break 🙂

@@frankiebye 👍

@@T.Ross. Thanks, I've lost my forces cap in Croatia, so no hat ATM. 👍

@@davidcooke1389 You're welcome :-)

@@birchgrovepermaculture6678 Great, that is just what I like to hear, glad it gave cheap, reliable motoring for those 4 years :-)

You're very welcome :-)

:-)

Good job, fiddly, but very satisfying when done :-)

Good job, would be interesting to hear sometime in future months if you think it does solve the leaky floor wells issue :-)

Yes, I had that too, but managed to find a T20 long bit out of one of those electrical screwdriver sets that have double ended bits in that fit into a standard hex socket. If you pause the video, you can just about make it out. I've got some tape on it too to hold it in place. Should have mentioned it in the video, sorry ;-/

@HatBoyHarvey it's all good thank you! Checked Argos and they have a drill bit set with the T20 long piece in!! Great idea, it wasn't in any normal socket sets. Gonna get it sorted tomorrow. You have been a lifesaver for the past 3 years, hats off to you sir Harvey😂☺️

Good question, but only if you have another known working horn. I still don't know what is going on with this circuit :-/

​@@HatBoyHarveyThank you very much, Harvey. Do you think it is possible to clean the contact without remove the horn from the car's body?

@@MrMorancio you will find it is much easier to take the horn out to remove and examine the contacts. It can be done in situ, but could be tricky.

Yes, that is it, maybe I should show that as a separate video? :-)