12-String Guitar Nut Slotting | BEST Method - FOOLPROOF!

PayPal: [e-mail]. Donations appreciated! The BEST guide on the entire Internet for slotting 12 string nuts the right way. I know, right? I can't believe it either!
This will work for ANY paired string nut, including 12 string basses, as you can see in the first shots of this video. Strings in pairs or triplets...doesn't matter! This method will work EVERY time, without fail. I've also been refining it even more, so pay attention to new videos I have on the way.
Chapters:
0:00 Bad Nut vs. Good Nut
0:24 First Step to Slotting a Nut + Must-Have Tool
1:38 Slotting the Paired String
2:41 "(A - B) / C = S" Formula: Foolproof Method for Slotting ANY Nut!
3:44 Math Time! How to Slot 12 String (Paired String) Nuts
4:44 Mind the Details
5:23 Original 12-String Fingerstyle Composition and Nut Slotting Time Lapse
6:11 What a Great 12 String Nut Looks Like!
6:47 Epilogue: Discussion and Having Fun Playing!
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My eBay store with Handwound Pickups and more:
www.ebay.com/usr/md4239
Instagram: Follow for pictures and updates on my work. I usually post more regularly here than on KZbin:
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Bandcamp: My music and covers in high quality .WAV file format:
md101089.bandcamp.com
Imgur. Snapshots of my guitar work and wiring diagrams:
guitarmd10.imgur.com/all

[@jessepebler9291]

When you threw the string spacing ruler in the trash and said "good, now that that's out of the way..." That grabbed me right there. Thank you for really teaching me something worthwhile. I will definitely reference this for the 12 string I'm currently tackling. Thank you and I look forward to more 🤘

[@guitar_md]

Thanks so much! One of the first things my friend and mentor Steve K. said to me was, in reference to the nut spacing rule...."Throw that thing out the window!" He has always done nuts by eye. And is phenomenal at them. I prefer using a little assistance. Hope this video is helpful to you for doing that 12 string! I was so excited to post this because I recently cut a 12 string bass nut, and came up with this method in order to tackle it, as it was pretty mind boggling. Appreciate your comment and you're the exact type of person I hope my work reaches! Thanks again so much!

[@SimonDuffy2]

Fabulous video. Thank you for such a clear and helpful method. Strung my first electric 12 string tonight. I went for .042 between pairs and it is super comfortable. Dead 'appy. Thank you.

[@guitar_md]

Thank you! I have a 'reboot' of this coming soon, which should be even clearer. I currently have it schedule to release on December 23rd, though I might release it later. Unsure for now. But I redid a lot of the graphics and explanations -- hopefully it will attract some more attention as well. It really is foolproof. So glad you were able to follow this and get great results regardless. .042" is what I used on a mandolin recently as well, and it worked great. The original spaces were closer to .080" between the pairs, and they were overall quite cramped, being much farther in from the fret bevel than they needed to be. Feels much better now. Thanks so much for the support and for letting me know! Made my day!

[@robertrraineyjr967]

Oh, my Lord! Thank you for your video. I've been wanting to replace my plastic Martin nut on my D12-35 for over 30 years, and NOBODY could help me. I know you are being precise in making the slots perfectly parallel by using that .028" feeler to insure it. I never EVER thought of that. I'll have to slow your video down, of course, to totally absorb your directions and carefully measure using your formula and my digital measuring gauge. The trick is using that bubble balance to insure a perpendicular cut and making certain you hold the feeler gauge flat against the file as you go. This, sir, is a work of art. Where in the hell did you come from and why don't we already know about you? Pls give me the details to donate to you. Even with your help, this is a nail-biter, but I'm tackling this with your instructions this week. You should be famous just for this piece of work, now matter what else you accomplish.

[@guitar_md]

Thank you so much! Can't say how much this means to me. I am so flattered! I was so excited to get this video on KZbin for the very reason that I've never seen anyone do a tutorial for this. I've been doing guitar work for years but only came up with this method this past year. I was tasked with cutting a 12 string bass nut and really had to figure out a way to do it reliably, because it was so mind boggling. I've used the caliper-as-a-fence method for years, but it just simply occurred to me brainstorming one day to use a feeler gauge as a fence for paired strings. I actually used a .028" or .035" (somewhere in there) nut file instead of a feeler gauge the first time I did it. And no worries about screwing up the nut! The baking soda and superglue trick works miracles. Do very shallow slots, just enough to catch the string, and if it's not where you need it, fill the slot and try again. If you keep the 'trial slots' shallow, you can easily fill them and file them down and no one would be the wiser. Once you get the spacing exactly where you want it, then you can file the slots deeper to make them permanent. My PayPal address is [e-mail] if you're interested in donating -- and I deeply appreciate it! It means so much to me that my video helped you and I'm so thrilled you're going to be using it to help you improve your guitar. I actually had to redo a couple strings with the baking soda/superglue trick on this very video! So don't sweat it. I had a couple strings that were spaced a little weird and I had to redo it much more carefully -- but all with the same nut. I have a video on my method for filling nuts slots elsewhere on my channel, it's about 1 minute long and straight to the point. Thanks again so much!

[@TheMrTrololo]

Dude, your channel is a hidden gem for any guitar enthusiast! I own bc rich 10 string and your guide helped me to figure out why i can't play them damn doubles. Wish you luck, keep doing what you're doing man!

[@guitar_md]

Thanks so much! I never saw one of those, but just looked it up online, and looking at the nut string spacing, I can see why you'd have issues with it. If It looks anything like the picture of the BC Rich 10 string I'm looking at now, it could definitely benefit from a well-cut nut with improved and equal spacing, and would be far easier to play. Thanks again so much dude, comments like this keep me going. So glad this was able to help you, and the entire reason I made this video was so people like you who have instruments with paired strings can solve their issue and basically turn it into a whole new instrument that's a long more fun and accurate to play!

[@TheMrTrololo]

@@guitar_md Man, just today i stumbled upon your channel and what a treasure i found! The guitar I'm talking about is bc rich bich perfect 10. So, after nut job is done, i need to replace the saddles and do the thing you mentioned in saddle re-pointing video? Because obviously strings space will go apart down there close to bridge

[@guitar_md]

@@TheMrTrololo Yep! You can use the same digital caliper method for spacing the string slots at the saddles. I use this all the time on tune-o-matic style saddles. They need to be notched anyway, and most people do them dead center, which can be okay. I always recommend getting some extra saddles so you have replacements as you experiment, in case you mess one up. Keep me posted and let me know how it goes!

[@leoneddy1492]

Thanks so much I've been playing Bass guitar and double Bass for Years so wider spacings on guitars the better for me for this reason I Bought a 12 string that had been converted to a SIX string , but decided to convert it back to a 12,( THE SOUND OF THEM IS TORMENTING ME) I started slotting the first pair of Bass E's last night and then came across your Video and the calculations, The Video is Brilliant (The Nut Width on this old Sheltone 12Str is 52mm

[@guitar_md]

Thanks so much! I'm working on an updated version and am so excited to get that published. But all the same concepts here, just presented in a clearer and more visually appealing way. I just did a mandolin nut the other day and had all the slots cut in no time at all. The advantage with my method is even if you mark out with a pencil where the strings *should* be, you'll never have the accuracy of using a fence -- just like using a fence on a bandsaw or router table or table saw to get perfectly aligned cuts. Thanks again! And I'm doing my best to keep track of spacings I see come in. The mandolin had .084" or 2.1mm space between each pair. I reduced it to .042", or 1.06mm. Wider spacing, within reason, really does make a huge difference. Funny you mentioned playing a converted 12 string. Some people have huge hands and do better with much wider necks. The sound of 12 strings is definitely unique and takes some getting used to. I'm also working on a video of my new Cozart 12 string Strat. This thing is awesome. I'm planning on installing a piezo pickup in the neck pocket, making a new pickguard for it, installing threaded inserts, cutting a new nut for it, and more. I needed to shim up the octave string saddles, as for some reason, the higher in the octave pair is *much* lower than the heavier string in the pair, and they're not height adjustable. Had to put a thick shim under each saddle to get them up to the proper height.

[@leoneddy1492]

Hi, that reduction in string pair spacing on the mandolin sounds a great shout (just about reduction by half) I was watching a video on a Rick 360 12 string and the nut width is slightly only just over 41mm don't know about the string pair spacing but I would think your method would be a godsend on it. back to mine I 've gone for a 1mm pair spacing and it's looking pretty good not fully cut the bridge and nut yet (just working on getting the spacing right ) Over the years I've made a 4 string Fretless. a 5 string Fretless, and just finished a 4 string fretted (first attempt at a fretted) the fretted has come out great plenty of bottom end definition , UK Ash body ,Maple neck ,Ebony finger board, Sung il Bridge (awesome for the money better than Fenders bent piece of tin plate ,) Warman split precision pickup and a humbucker bridge pick up from here in UK lOW PRICE But I know they great as I've swapped out on a Fender precision, Good Luck with the Strat, appreciate how time consuming it must be to make Videos.Take care from across the pond

[@norgermish1]

I have played guitar for 30 plus years unfortunately a recent accident left my cord hand unable to play guitar. In order to stay close to guitars I took up fixing them. Because I've played 12 strings for most of my playing time I love working on them now. The whole string spacing and making nuts has been given new light through your video. Just wanted to say thanks.

[@guitar_md]

Very sorry to hear about your accident. But glad to hear that you found this video so helpful. I'm also a huge fan of 12 strings and working on guitars has become at least as enjoyable to me now as playing them. I have a new video in the works going over the same process for regular 6 string nuts in more detail, and also am revising my video on measuring pickups with an oscilloscope as I've come across new information. It's all very exciting stuff. Let me know how your experiences with guitar work continue to go. Making nuts is one of the most important things, by far...as my mentor taught me, the nut will make or break a guitar. It's absolutely incredible how much they affect playability. And even more so on a 12 string, where on most of them, the strings are spread far too wide. I first got the idea by looking at a Taylor Leo Kottke signature model. I'm a huge Leo Kottke fan and play a lot of his stuff, and one thing that caught my eye there was that the string pairs seemed much closer together than on other 12 strings. That gave me the inspiration to come up with this method. That, and having to do a 12 string bass nut for a customer. I needed a method I could use for paired strings *and* tripled strings, and this does it! Thanks again so much for the comment, it means a lot to me to know my work is reaching people and hopefully inspiring them to keep up with and expand their guitar tech skills!

[@boyan.guitar]

Liked, subscribed, rang the bell, followed on instagram. This type of in depth knowledge and know how, paired with the quality production, what a God send! Thank you so much! Huge Leo Kottke fan, I always wondered why they make 12 strings the way they do - with wide spacing between the pairs both at the nut and saddle, it makes it difficult to play anything else but strummy cowboy chords. Loved your tune and playing too, Matt! Keep them coming!

[@guitar_md]

Thanks so much! I have a redo of this video on the way -- actually this Saturday. Nothing new, but presented in a more concise and clear way with better examples. I saw a picture of an LKSM 12 string online and noticed that the string pairs were very close together. Once I came up with the method for spacing the slots, that was the next step. I'd never thought about getting the pairs closer together. I haven't done a video on it yet, but I also routed my 12 string for a 1/4" saddle. And I use nut files to compensate them for each individual string. The nut slotting file cuts away the front of the saddle for the Low E, for example, so it only contacts the area closest to the bridge pins -- and for the octave Low E, I cut a notch on the opposite side, so the contact point is closer to the soundhole. I've never seen anyone else compensate saddles like this. But even for a 6 string it's just much easier and faster, and I think more precise. It doesn't look as nice as an even contour but it works like a charm. And for paired string saddles I really do think it's the only way to go. I'll definitely have to make a video on that eventually, as it works so well. The 1/4" saddle also makes the intonation much more controllable on 12 strings, and you can use an Amana Tool 47223-S guide bearing bit in a Dremel to do it. I did not use a saddle slot routing jig, just a flat bar clamped down to the top, as far as I remember. So much easier to do. They also make a 3/16" guide bearing bit so 3/16" saddles would be possible as well.

[@boyan.guitar]

@@guitar_md Hey Matt - so I have a question - what about the bridge spacing? What do you recommend? I tried .28 feeler gauge between the courses and it's definitely too tight - the strings end up rattling together. So I spaced them out a little bit, I could only go so far on the experimental bridge I'm working on and it's better, but it seems like the skinny strings can tolerate closeness, while the thicker less so (duh). I thought I'd ask the guru for advice (because to me you ARE the guru of these things, I've watched all your tech videos and most of the Kottke covers... the latter are such a joy, bravo!) One of the things I'm thinking of doing is trying bass strings+regular strings and down a whole step. I tune to C on the 12 currently, but only to D on 6 string. I'm only in the beginning of the 12 string adventure, but already bought two identical Corts I'm working on. One I converted to a 7 string - it's so fun! Your videos on nut spacing and the glue/baking soda filler have been a LIFE SAVER! God bless!

[@guitar_md]

@@boyan.guitarOn my Cozart electric 12 string, they're about .080" apart at the bridge. On my Blueridge 12 string, they vary, but are around .100-.120" apart. Not quite though...they're kinda all over the place, dictated by the bridge pin hole spacing. I'd say .080" would be good to shoot for. I haven't experimented too much with this, as I'm used to acoustics, where to really change that spacing ideally you'd change the location of the bridge pin holes -- so I just lived with whatever was there, which usually was OK. That .080" does feel very comfortable to me on that Cozart 12 string Strat. The disproportionate spacing is OK. The nut end of the neck is much narrower and it's more critical for the strings to be farther apart there as you have less room. Tapering to a wider in-between spacing at the bridge will work just fine. You could try narrower, but that .080" feels pretty good to me. I'd keep them all the same between the pairs. I will have to experiment more but again, judging by that Cozart, I'd say around .080" is pretty good. Depends on your playstyle too. Fingerpicking or flatpick, or both. And how much separation you like to feel between the octave strings. But -- all theoretical. I've used the nut formula to space strings at the bridge before, but never gave much thought to the between-pair spacing at the bridge. Let's stick with around .080" for now but with the "open to experimentation" caveat. Let me know what you end up going with!

[@fartwrangler]

Awesome tips. Love the action with the StewMac spacing ruler. :)

[@guitar_md]

Thank you. Always thrilled when someone appreciates that part!

[@dainhuston]

Thanks I’m doing a graphite nut on my 64 Fender 12 string. I gotta hunch some where in the wood pile of records or CD’s there’s a copy of Leo’s armadillo for 6 & 12 string. Nice original piece Pick & Grin 🤘😎🤘

[@chrisbaddeley5766]

Listening to the end of this video convinced me that you and I are both Leo Kottke fans 👌

[@guitar_md]

Absolutely! For almost 20 years now. I actually have a Vaseline Machine Gun tutorial if you're interested here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4a4hqKJa9-rpMksi=NU79G4jyM03Ai9EV It's a few years old so my video/audio quality are nowhere near where they are today. Would love to get my Cozart 12 string together. I have a video I'm working on for that. All electric...but set up properly, plays like a dream. I'm experimenting with a piezo pickup in the neck pocket combined with a low impedance magnetic pickup I made in the neck position -- combining them together you can get some almost convincing acoustic tones out of a solidbody electric guitar, with the benefits of an adjustable neck and reduced volume for playing at night. Well...anyway, yep! Huge HUGE Leo Kottke fan. I always tell people I've practically only had two guitarist influences in my life, and it's Jimi Hendrix and Leo Kottke. Two favorites by far. You're making me want to get my Blueridge out again!

[@lone-wolf-1]

Perfect work!👍🏼👌🏼👏🏼

[@guitar_md]

Thank you so much 🙏 !

[@broforcefreedom4936]

This is sick man. Well done.

[@guitar_md]

Thanks dude!

[@jessoresador7473]

You are actually brilliant, I like your content. thanks for sharing.

[@allgameingchannel5650]

This is really amazing

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@lunachicks6665]

Awesome tutorial

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@shahidanasrin1971]

You are really brilliant... Thank you for sharing this helpful tutorial 💕💕

[@guitar_md]

Absolutely! Thank you so much!

[@blueoceantraders]

Wonderful tutorial, Thank you!

[@guitar_md]

Absolutely. Thanks so much for the support. Hope this was able to help you out!

[@mdnoman1027]

Very good tutorial

[@guitar_md]

Thanks!

[@miketho4093]

Perfect!!! I enjoy it

[@guitar_md]

Thanks!

[@MdRubel-oj7iv]

You are really brilliant, it was very helpful for my site.

[@guitar_md]

Thank you, glad it helped!

[@jonayedhossain5840]

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[@guitar_md]

Thank you so much!

[@getthefffffoffme]

Excellent.

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@mst.taniasultana9449]

What an amazing video. You are doing great job. I really love this content. Go ahead

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@SohidulIslam-ot7or]

This is sick man.Well done ❤️ I love this vedio ❤️❤️❤️

[@guitar_md]

Thanks!

[@dreamsstart7995]

That is amazing tutorial

[@guitar_md]

Thanks!

[@praneshsarkar1522]

This is a really amazing content bro

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@azizulhossain4100]

amazing video 🙂

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@biplobbaski9499]

You are the best guitar player, I love this video.

[@guitar_md]

Thank you so much!

[@zpcar]

thanx very much for this, keep up the good work, subscribed in a blink of an eye.

[@guitar_md]

Thank you so much! I appreciate this more than I can say!

[@thrasher9398]

Dude that's some awesome job u did there! Beautiful playing 😮 loved the ending haha 😂

[@guitar_md]

Thanks so much! 😂 didn't think anyone would catch it so I'm really glad you enjoyed it 😂

[@rajmusic6074]

The guitar playing skill is really mind blowing❤ Thanks for share this video 👍 keep it up

[@guitar_md]

Thank you so much!

[@sabbirahamad5315]

Onk sundor video via

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@mizanrahman7205]

owsam concept bro

[@guitar_md]

Thanks!

[@ridoykhanridoykhan4363]

I love this your video

[@guitar_md]

Thanks!

[@atiqurrahman3420]

the great performance.

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@dafedico]

Thank you very much for your video and explanation. Given the lack of tools, I tried to make the measurements before, but when making the grooves, the spaces were not correct 😔... So I applied what you say in the video (have the caliper next to the file and make the groove 5:08, 5:25 ...) and the spacing is 100% balanced !!! Greetings from Colombia

[@guitar_md]

Excellent! Thanks so much for letting me know. I'm so glad my method worked for you. Made my day!

[@Scatwav]

Excelente

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@RockStarOscarStern634]

A Zero Glide nut would also rock the strings sit on a Fret built into the nut which equalizes the tone

[@d.j.williams4815]

Interesting. I tried making a new bone nut on on of my 12s that I thought was crowding my (not so skinny) fingers somewhat. It worked out well. I have not completely finished polishing the nut and doing the final, final string height filing, but it is close and plays great. I was indeed surprised that a 12 could tolerate .028 pair spacing, but it does, and it makes 12s with IMO too narrow necks quite enjoyable to play. Thank you for taking the time to put this together. Not much good information like this for those of us that love the 12.

[@guitar_md]

I was surprised as well. That .028" spacing really does make a huge difference. My newest nut slotting video has a whole section on 12 string nuts at the end if you want to check it out. Same information but in a more streamlined way. One thing I didn't address was the nut slot depth. I set the pairs so each string in the pair is the same distance from the top of the first fret. Another commenter asked me about that, then I realized I didn't even think to include it in the video. Would be curious what you did with that. Thanks so much for letting me know you used this method, by the way. Made my morning. I was inspired to make this video as I couldn't find a single good resource online for how to make a solid, perfect 12 string nut. I was originally inspired by a picture of a Leo Kottke Signature Model 12 string from Taylor, where I noticed the string pairs were much closer together than usual. I'm working on a new video of refurbishing a Cozart Stratocaster 12 string as well. I really love 12's and it's my first solidbody 12 string. Major plans for it to get it closer to an acoustic, including a piezo pickup in the neck pocket. Exciting stuff. Thanks again for the comment and the support!

[@d.j.williams4815]

@@guitar_md I finished the final shaping and polishing of the nut and it is indeed not the simplest nut I have ever done but certainly the most rewarding. The .028 string spacing forces you to be rather carful and wear your magnifiers :). The nib is what you really have to be careful about with bone. Probably also somewhat careful restringing too. Not sure if there is another material that would be any better than bone tho. I set the slot depth so the bottom of the pairs are the same distance from the fret and pretty low for an acoustic - I tried not to get lower .020 from the string bottom to the 1st fret. No buzzing and I normally use light guage sets and typically tune to D. Another tip I picked up on umgf is getting the spacing at the bridge end closer. On my test mule :) the octave pair is the rearmost set of pins and the octave strings bend out slightly on the regular pair's pins in front. I "relieved" a bit of the forward pin left side so the octave string could get a little straighter run to the saddle. It is completely invisible and maybe helped a little. Not all 12's are configured this way but it was worth the effort. I suppose you could get extreme with this and put both strings in one hole and notch the saddle (Taylor did this with the 552ce at one point, as did Stella), but the pin notch is ok with me. You are certainly correct, there is about ZERO good information on the net about making 12-string nuts. Much of the info frankly not right, accurate, or helpful - except your info. Interesting about your LK observation. I still find a lot of 12 players and some builders don't see the value of this gem.

[@guitar_md]

@@d.j.williams4815 Yes. The 'wall' or nib between the string pairs is very susceptible to breaking. For this reason, I'm very adamant about only making the nut as tall as absolutely necessary. For the wound strings, I keep about 1/3 to 1/2 of the string sticking out over the top of the nut. The shorter that "nib," the more resistant it is to breaking. I've only had breakage on those when the nut was too tall. It doesn't take much at all when doing work this precise. That was a major issue I had in the beginning, but all better now. Tusq and Tusq XL are great materials. Bone is my favorite but I think those are very fine materials and will work very well. I'm just so used to bone, and am biased because of the "old time" look and feel to it. Just something so cool about using animal bone to make a part for an instrument. Really appreciate the feedback. Surprisingly, on my 12 string, the pairs are around .015" from the first fret. There might be a slight amount of buzz but not enough to bother me. .020" sounds right for not having any buzz. Usually the lowest I'll ever go on the Low E string at the first fret is .018", and that is very low. .020" gives a much more comfortable buffer for being able to play without buzz. I live with a little buzz, but it suits my play style and demands for insanely low action. On my main Stratocaster, I have the action on .018" wound strings, .010" plain strings at the 1st fret, .000" - .002" neck relief, and action .030" GBE at the 12th, then around .035" D, .040" A, .046" Low E. I use some advanced fret profiling techniques using a Rectify Master Katana, which help with string bending, and buzzing on the low strings. But with action that low I still run into issues and may have to learn to live with a much flatter radius to get the lowness of action I want without issues. Anyway. Very interesting stuff. I'm so glad you had such great success with this method. It means so much to me that you used it and that you see value in it. This method is probably my greatest achievement in guitar work and is the first thing that comes to mind when I think of something I've contributed to the guitar world that I've never seen anywhere else. And the purpose? Not to pump up my ego but to get guitars playing better so people can enjoy them more. This is a great example. I'm really thrilled beyond words that you were able to apply this method and have such success with it. And opening up that spacing on a narrower neck -- perfect example again! The nut is so critical, and so overlooked. I'm fortunate that my friend and mentor Steve K. turned me on to the importance of the nut about 20 years ago now. He always cut them by eye, and still does to this day -- same way he's been doing them since 1968. I'm not as mechanically inclined as he is, which gave birth to this method. Something *anyone* could use, with some finesse, but nowhere near the insane level of finesse required to cut a perfect 12 string nut (or normal nut, for that matter) completely by eye, which is how he does it. He never measures anything and they always come out perfect, but very few people can do this. My goal is to make guitar work more accessible to as many people as possible by illustrating how these things work. Thanks again so much. Again...beyond thrilled. 12 strings are very near and dear to my heart and it's a rare breed of person that shares that passion. They're definitely magical.

[@d.j.williams4815]

@@guitar_md The only tidbit I have found since doing a couple of my 12-strings... the close string spacing is a challenge for the 12-string capo I have tried. The Gg and Dd high octave string pairs are tough (probably impossible) for both 12-string capos I have tried (D'addario and Shubb F3 and C3). Maybe others have rubber more compliant.

[@kshuvo044gmail4]

So beautiful make guiter,,, i like it

[@guitar_md]

Thanks!

[@killerboykillerboy8634]

It's easy to describe

[@guitar_md]

Thank you!

[@Michael_Dominic]

Amazing video

[@guitar_md]

Thanks dude! :)

[@PedroParkerD]

Do you have footage of the bridge? I'm curious to see if the bridge is spaced out the same as the nut

[@davidpaul6870]

You Sir, have a wealth of knowledge... thank you for sharing! Have you had any second thoughts about using the .062/.032 pair for the low E? Your thoughts on using a .056 instead? My guitar is an older Sigma DM12-5 Japan. I'm going to make a new nut & saddle, and planning to string it with a custom set of Martin Retro Monel's, with the gages you used in the video... keeping the low E tuned down around C-C#. Requesting your thoughts on tuning & gages & such. Thanks! 🙏😁✌🏻

[@guitar_md]

Thanks so much! And you're most welcome. .056 is plenty heavy for C#. I tune my 12 string to open tunings and my low E usually hangs out around A# or A, so it's super low -- even lower if I'm going to open C. I tune to C or B standard and tune down to open tunings from there, so the strings I use are extra heavy. I used .013-.056 standard sets for years with great results. Let me know how it goes!

[@ksgjlg]

This is excellent! I'm building a 12 string (in the design phase) since I'm playing some Kottke. Any tips on bridge pin layout?

[@guitar_md]

Just to leave enough room for the saddle. I actually prefer 1/4" saddles on 12 strings for the added range of adjustability. I modified my jumbo Blueridge 12 string to have a 1/4" bone saddle, and I use nut files to notch the saddle to compensate it much more precisely for the paired strings. Aside from that, I haven't made any bridges yet. I think there's a little more leeway with bridge pin hole spacing. Getting them a smidge closer together than is typical might be really interesting. Though there's less room there than at the nut. Biggest thing again would be leaving enough room for saddle compensation. I tune down two whole steps from standard and have a .063 for a low string, and even with the 1/4" saddle, the low E doesn't have enough room to move back farther. I could plug all the holes with the Stewmac Bridge Saver and redo it. Just never got around to it. I think a baritone 12 string would be awesome. I always wanted to make one. Never built an acoustic, only made a top for one, a single time, many years ago. Alternative string mounting ideas might also be interesting. Some of those old ladder braced 12 strings with trapeze tailpieces are super cool. I'll have to think about it some more. I do love 12 strings. I will say if you're building one, definitely put a K&K transducer in there. Those things are awesome. A set of those in a jumbo Blueridge 12 string was one of the best guitar tones I've ever heard. I'll let you know here if I think of anything else!

[@pichan8841]

Your're a gifted composer and musician! Is that your original composition 'The Persian Thief' playing in the time lapse section? Sounds so much different than on the album! Much better recording and audio imho! I honestly think you should do a 'remake' of your 'untitled solo acoustic album' (and maybe give it a title, eventually?) I also love the Bach arrangement. Put that on the album, also! Don't be too shy about your musical work. I especially like the acoustic pieces. It's great stuff!

[@guitar_md]

Thank you so much! This really means a lot to me, more than I can say. And yes, as far as I remember, I re-recorded that "Persian Thief" song for this video. It is my original composition, from way back when...I think I was around 18 years old when I came up with it, so 16 year ago. Man...very weird to realize that. I had a creative surge back then, and so many ideas for so much music. I've been working on a new album. The good thing is nobody knows about my Bandcamp page so it's easy to keep things under wraps in plain sight. My latest work is overdubs of electronic music. There's a long story behind the inspiration for it but I got very close to someone who got me into that music, and the idea just came to me spontaneously to do it. I'm still working on more, but emotionally it's very difficult for me given the situation. Again, long story. And again....really appreciate. I have only had a very small handful of people in my entire life compliment my music ever, and you're on that very short list of people. My inspiration for the overdubs was that this music really meant an incredible amount to this person. She's the only person I shared the tracks with and her enjoyment of them meant everything in the world to me. Without making things too complicated, she's still alive but is dealing with a type of traumatic brain injury and is not the same person anymore. Anyway, I should know better than to start talking as I just keep going and going. I will reconsider doing more acoustic work. I never had anyone encourage me to continue with it and nobody really ever cared about the original music I was making, so I gave up on it. I'll think about getting back to it now that I've read your comment. So thank you for this!

[@pichan8841]

@@guitar_md Thanks for your reply! I will check out your electronic stuff, too! There are some luthiers out there who are also musicians. You, it seems, are one of the very rare type of artist/musician who also do lutherie. Is there a video on your ring slide from the 'Heavyweight' solo (great, too!)? Maybe get a patent, first...Could be a huge seller. Looking forwart to your next vid!

[@guitar_md]

@pichan8841 The inventor of the Slidewinder Ring is Alex Calder. I think that's his name anyway, if I remember right. It's magnetized. But on that one, I degaussed it with a soldering gun. The idea is the magnet can pull the string up slightly so you can use it with lower action. It does work but it also "plucks" the string when removing it, which is not good for subtle/quiet passages. And thanks so much! My whole motivation for getting into tech work was to have full control over my guitars and their playability. It's been a real privilege to be able to do this. And after 20 years I'm enjoying guitar more than ever. That's the reason I've focused on tech work and modifications as well. I still have never made a body or neck from scratch. Though I do understand the process, and have done a lot of work on the router table/drill press/band saw, it's simply more effective time and money wise for me to use premade bodies and necks and modify them heavily. I'd love to get into building someday. I really would. But for now my pride and joy is my custom two pickup Strat with the top loading jack plate I made for it out of pickguard material. And the series/parallel and phase wiring switches I put in. 6 tones out of two pickups and all the controls are comfortably accessible but also completely out of the way of the picking hand. Really appreciate the support, again, more than I can say. For a while I got swept up in replying to negative comments here on my channel and it really threw me off. It's nice to have a good exchange like this and to know someone really appreciates what I'm doing. That really means the world to me. All about having fun. And improving. My main goal is to share my knowledge for free so people can enjoy this stuff the way I have. Without having to make all the mistakes I did and spend all that time figuring things out on their own. I have some guitar playing lessons on the way too. That's one thing I'd like to venture more into. The whole point of working on them is so they're more fun to play -- then play them! It's a great balance and one hand washes the other.

[@petecrush]

Truly excellent video! I measured the string spacing between pairs on my 12 string guitar, and they are all at least twice or even three times the 0.7mm that you have achieved. I will be dealing with this now! There are very few videos or articles online about setting up and adjusting 12 string guitars, any further ones by you would be most welcome. In particular, your recommended relative heights of the paired strings, presumably the high E and B pairs are of matching heights, but how should the high octave strings for E, A, D & G be set in relation to their heavier partners? And should the saddle be grooved to match the tighter spacing of the nut? Your words of wisdom would be appreciated! Best wishes, Pete

[@guitar_md]

I'd get all string pairs to the same height at the nut. I just checked mine and each paired course is within a few thousandths of each other -- if I were to really dial this in, I'd get them to the same height for all pairs. I don't groove the saddle, but for intonation, I like using nut files on 12 strings. So the string itself is not sitting on a groove, but the nut file allows for very fine compensation of the saddle. So you'd groove a hollow on the saddle for, say, the Low E string, so the point of intonation will be the very back of the saddle, closest to the bridge pin. Then for the octave Low E, you can groove the back of the saddle so the string rests closer to the middle or forward of the saddle toward the soundhole. The traditional method of compensating saddles by 'contouring' works fine, but the nut files will give you a lot more precision. I use bone for saddles, and while you can notch them so the strings are sitting in a groove, there's no need to do this as the bridge pin holes will dictate the string spacing. Bridges that have poor spacing are typically only found on cheaper models. A quick fix in those cases would be grooving the saddles so the strings are sitting in slots, but the preferred fix would be using a Stewmac Bridge Saver, plugging the holes in the bridge plate, filling the holes on top with something like rosewood dust and CA glue, and redrilling the holes in a better location. A massive amount of work that would only ever be appropriate on a true abomination of a bridge...and I've seen them on 12 strings before, but only ones that cost 100 dollars (or less). For the extreme down tunings like Leo Kottke uses, and I'm a fan of, a 1/4" saddle is a huge help. I'm still trying to come up with a really reliable way of doing this without any excessively fancy tools, as I don't own a saddle slotting jig -- though I probably will soon! So maybe when that comes along I can do a video on that. The 1/4" saddle is super wide and allows for proper intonation when tuning low, where the low strings need to be *very* far back, close to the bridge pins, and the thinner strings need to be much farther forward. In my experience it's simply not possible to intonate a 12 string well when it's using very heavy strings and tuned very low *without* using a 1/4" saddle. In a perfect world, a slightly longer scale length would be better. I don't build guitars (yet), but if I did, I'd be very interested in making a 26.5" scale 12 string. Just a bit longer to accommodate heavier strings and lower tunings without feeling too different. Not quite baritone but probably better than a 25.5" scale with a 1/4" saddle. 12 strings definitely don't get the attention they deserve. In my opinion they should be tuned low, and sound best when tuned low...as Leo has said, if you want to tune a 12 string to concert pitch, you're better off playing a mandolin! I thought that was not only funny, but true. The deep roar/jangle of a 12 string is what makes them so special to me. For me personally I never tune them above C standard -- two whole steps below concert pitch. This also goes a long way in preserving the top, as it's much less likely to deform and belly when it's tuned so low, even with heavy strings. Stringjoy has a tension calculator on their site and that can be used to see the actual difference in tension between light gauge strings tuned to concert pitch and heavy strings tuned super low. Haven't tested that myself yet actually but it would be good to know the numbers. Currently I'm using 13.5 gauge strings on the high E and a .062 on the low E. So the string sets I've been making out of single strings are quite heavy. Thanks so much for the comment! Hope this helps!

[@guitar_md]

Did a little more thinking and I will say that the string spacing at the bridge on my 12 string doesn't look excellent. The pins are spaced *okay* but especially on 12 strings, it can get cramped. So I may end up notching the saddle after all. If you check out one of my newer videos where I'm working on a Gretsch Chet Atkins Nashville model guitar, you'll see that I use the same caliper method for spacing the strings at the saddles. On Tune-o-Matic saddles, there are no notches, and they need to be notched. You can do them in the center by eye, but spacing the outside E strings first, and then using calipers as a fence as I did here, you can get much more accurate and much more precise with your spacing. The bridge pin heads may need to be taken down a bit to make room for the string pairs. A lot of times the strings will be running directly against the bridge pin of the adjacent paired string and that can throw the spacing off. So that actually is something that warrants further investigation, and I'm excited to see if spacing them similarly at the bridge makes as much of a difference in playability. I think there's a lot more leeway for wider string pair spacing at the bridge, but we'll see! Good question and thanks for asking. Not sure why it didn't "click" until a few hours after my original comment. Was in the shower and then it hit me -- exactly what you're talking about. And it's something I haven't considered on 12 strings, which is funny because on my main Stratocaster I notched all the saddles with my calipers. They look very 'uneven' if you only look at the marks, but if you measure the string spacing, they're perfectly even. It made a huge difference!

[@petecrush]

@@guitar_md Thank you very much for your detailed reply, so nice of you to take such trouble and respond with such a full response. This has given me a really good understanding of the subject before I set about my modifications. Just one thing more to ask you; when you say you set all the strings to the same height at the nut, do you mean they are at the same level underneath (where they sit in the grooves) or at their top surface? In other words, are the thinner strings stepped down (compared to their thicker neighbour) which would affect how the strings feel and sound when strummed? Or am I over-thinking this! Thanks again, and good luck with your future plans and further 12 string experimentation.

[@guitar_md]

@@petecrush Using a digital action gauge, the height of the strings will be the same -- so the distance from the bottom of the strings to the top of the first fret would be the same on a given pair of strings. At least, that's how I have mine set up right now. I think having them the same distance from the 1st fret makes the most sense on all pairs -- unison and octave pairs alike.

[@ViluMasi]

Great video! Having enough space between courses is a big deal specially for fingerstyle playing, it makes all the difference. I suppose if you are just mindlessly strumming the guitar it is not a big deal, and since thats how most people play 12 strings you don't see them set up properly like this. You also seem to cut pretty shallow slots, specially when looking at the wound strings. Any reason for cutting them so shallow, as opposed to the usual depth of about half of the strings diameter (and the full string for the unwond ones)?

[@guitar_md]

Thanks! The main reason for the super shallow depth is because the 'wall' between the slots is so narrow. When you cut those slots with a nut file, there's a big risk of that 'wall' between the pairs breaking off. Or when you're stringing up and tuning up. The closer you get them together, the more important it is to keep that 'wall' strong by keeping the slot depth shallow. I previously had them quite a bit deeper in the slot and then as I was tuning up the Low E string, it snapped that 'wall' between the string pairs right off. Now, even with normal playing of a 12 string, just strumming away, there's still a huge advantage to the string pairs being closer together: no accidental muting during chords. So many times people will not be able to play a C chord, for example, without muting one of the open strings by accident, because the spacing isn't wide enough. Even if all a person plays are 'cowboy chords' on the first 3 frets, closer string pairs will still allow for much greater accuracy, and avoiding accidental string muting. I recently cut a mandolin nut using this same method and it definitely played a lot better after for the same reason. Makes a huge difference. I really think the only reason no 12 string nuts come like this is because it requires too much precision, and if it's not done precisely, the risk of part of the nut breaking off is extremely high. Just like with all nuts on all guitars, everyone errs on the side of caution, at the expense of playability. Just about every single nut I see, even if it's spaced evenly (which is already very rare), has the strings *way* too cramped. Much farther in than they really need to be. Opening up the spacing, making it wider, makes accidental string muting a thing of the past. There's a balance to strike for sure. But a huge improvement! I'm very excited to be working on an updated version of this video as well. Very, very excited. I'm completely backed up with videos, but that one is on the way. Thanks so much for the comment, and giving me some questions to answer. I enjoyed typing this out. Stay tuned. And hopefully I was able to answer some questions and make some more sense of things!

[@ViluMasi]

@@guitar_md Thanks for the thorough answer! That makes sense, but have you had issues with the string coming out of the slot because of the shallow grooves? Maybe an aluminum, brass or 6/6 nylon nut would solve this issue as the wall would not break off as easily? How about using a v file to cut the wider slots? The top of the wall would be pushed closed together, but the bottom of the groove would be narrower. (kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWHVZ2aHmcSrkM0) Regarding the spacing between strings in each course, I've also had issues of sometimes only being able to pluck only one string at a time if the string are too far apart. That is specially true on the 4th and 5th strings, since there is also a big disparity between gauges (and difference in height on the top of the strings) and my thumbs rolls off one of the strings before hitting the other one at the same time. Looking forward to the new videos!

[@TheAndyCorkill]

Great question as well, I was thinking the same👍

[@fan-bh7ur]

I just purchased a 12 string bass. It sounds beautiful, but each course is too wide for any skinny finger other than my index to hold down in anything like proper form. I measured the intracourse spacing as .075. I see that you use .070 for a double course. Have you ever tried a closer spacing for triple course? Your video gives me hope that my beautiful sounding bass was not a wasted expenditure.

[@guitar_md]

Definitely not a wasted expenditure! The nut is completely controllable. If you're not happy with the spacing you can make a new one. I've actually been meaning to make a video on filling nut slots with baking soda and superglue, and re-spacing and re-cutting them for practice. You can use any old nut, and you can redo the slots as many times as you want. It won't be pretty but it can work perfectly well, and given you have enough superglue and baking soda, you can try an infinite amount of times and hone your skills. In the very intro of the video is a clip of a 12 string bass nut with horrible spacing, and then a quick shot of a 12 string bass nut I cut for it, with much closer spaced triple courses. For that, I used a .028" feeler gauge as the spacer between each string. Is that what you meant? When you're referring to .075" I'm a little confused as to what measurement that is. Let me know! The problem is 100% fixable, guaranteed. Either making a new nut, or filling and re-spacing the slots, will make a mind blowing difference for your bass!

[@fan-bh7ur]

@@guitar_md Thank you for your prompt reply! In answer to your question: .028" equals .070mm. My triple courses have .075mm between each string within the course. I just checked my feeler gauge, that is .030". So, how small an intra-course spacing have you ever tried? The nut is metal. So, no matter what, I will be making a new one. Once again, thank you for being so very helpful.

[@guitar_md]

@@fan-bh7ur I see! I have to work on my inch-to-mm conversions. They do come up a lot with guitars! The narrowest I've ever tried was .020", or 0.50mm if I remember correctly. I just measured my 12 string nut that I cut and the high E string pair have 0.50mm between them. That is as close as I've ever gone, I think any more and you could seriously risk buzzing, but then again, you never know till you try! Especially with a metal nut, which is not brittle and basically at zero risk for breaking (unlike bone), you could probably get away with that. One trick is, if you have enough height on the nut, to only file shallow marks, enough to hold the string in place, just to test your spacing. You can do this multiple times, and if you keep your cuts shallow enough, you can simply file the top of the nut down until you file through all the shallow slots you cut. That of course requires your nut is high enough in the first place, but most stock nuts are. When the nut is 100% completed, the bottom 3 strings should have about half their diameter above the nut, only half of them seated down in the slot. So as long as you're not at that point, you can do a lot of shallow cuts to experiment with spacing, and just file away the marks and try again as needed. Hope that makes sense. Let me know how it goes!

[@sandimastodd]

Amazing. One question though? How do you set the depth of the slots?? I was considering getting thr Hosco groobars for a depth stopping point?? Do you need to do the saddle the same way????? Any tips or trick on the would be great. Im just a player kinda,collector,hoarder,music lover and guitar addict... I have an old eko rio bravo that needs a nut change and i want to use your method. Great content.... Thanks for the video.. Todd from portland oregon.

[@guitar_md]

Thanks so much! I set the depth by feel and eye, but Stewmac makes a "safe slot nut guard" if you'd like to use that. I'd explain, but it's much clearer on Stewmac. Link is here: www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-nuts-and-saddles/stewmac-safe-slot-nut-guard/ I'm going to be releasing another updated video eventually about filling low nut slots as well, with baking soda + superglue, or bone dust + superglue. I do have a video about that on my channel already right here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d33Fq4ZqZ6l2mKs And a similar one here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmacpGeKhNhlla8 Much higher quality video on the way! But the general principle applies. Basically, don't be afraid of going too far, as you can simply fill the slot. People will say it's not a good fix and doesn't last but I've had ones I've done many years ago that are still fine. Once you do it a bunch of times it becomes a super fast procedure, no big deal at all -- and you get an infinite amount of tries for getting the slots to the exact depth you want. I'd encourage you to save the money, and just go by feel. You can use a Digital Action gauge (I got mine on eBay) to measure the string action, including at the nut. Simply let the probe fall onto the string at the 1st fret, then zero it out, then depress it to see how high it is. Generally, .016" action at the 1st fret on the 3 bass strings, and .009" action at the 1st fret on the 3 treble strings, is a good rule of thumb. Keep in mind that the neck relief plays a huge role in how high the strings are at the first fret. I generally like to get my necks just about straight before filing the nut slots. That way you guarantee you won't go too far. If you file the slots while there's a lot of relief in the neck, by the time you straighten it out, or get it to just a touch of relief, where setups feel best -- it'll be too low. Fortunately, even if that happens, the baking soda and superglue fix will take care of it every time. And you can try again. Let me know how it goes! And thanks for the comment!

[@sandimastodd]

@@guitar_md Hey,thanks for the reply. So no modifications to the bridge saddle???? Ill probably do the music nomad kiss system tool.... very affordable as opposed to stew macs waaaaay over priced safe slot.. they have good stuff but there price is just unreal its laughable... Thanks again.

[@guitar_md]

@@sandimastodd You can notch saddles the same way, but typically I only do this on Tune O Matic style saddles, where you need to notch them. For acoustic saddles, I don't, though most plastic saddles have natural notches in them from the string pressure. Bone is much more resistant to that. The string spacing on acoustics is dictated by the location of the bridge pin holes, so notching is not necessary. However, on 12 strings, I prefer routing them for a 1/4" saddle. And I do partially notch them -- but the strings don't actually sit in the notch. It's for intonation purposes: I use the nut file to notch away the area of the saddle I DON'T want the string to touch. On the Low E pair for example on a 12 string, the thicker E has to have its contact point considerably farther back than the thinner E string to intonate properly.

[@guitar_md]

@@sandimastodd Any aftermarket copies are always preferable due to the price. There are a few non replaceable tools Stewmac has such as their plunge router base for the Dremel. But there are so many options on eBay now, I always check there first.

[@liamdl6674]

Hands skill 🥴🧐

[@LO01]

Friend, your tutorial is great, super detailed, but I still have difficulty understanding some things, because I don't speak English, and even activating the subtitles I was a little confused. If you can answer me, I would appreciate it. (You already answered me another question before, but this current question came to me after watching the video again, as I haven't applied it yet, I just watched it). Well, the question would be the following, what is the measurement from the tip of the nut, to the first string on each side? In the video you mention a measure that usually works in most cases, I mean, what would that measure be? And in the case of a 6-string guitar, would you have a measurement that usually works for most cases as well? Thanks!!!

[@guitar_md]

4/64 of an inch from the bevel of the fret! (1/16", as a reduced fraction). That would be 101.6mm in metric. The fret bevel is different on every guitar so it's important to measure it on each one. Same for 6 string, 12 string, bass, banjo -- any stringed instrument. You have more room to move the Low E string, so to really fine tune the outer string spacing. Move the Low E left or right as needed. Small shallow mark first-- then angle the file left or right as needed to move it. Leaving a little extra on the nut on either side will also allow side to side movement. So once your two outside strings are set, you can move the nut either way until it's perfectly centered. Hope this helps! Let me know. And thank you so much!

[@guitar_md]

To clarify, the measurement is not from the tip of the nut, but measured from the fret bevel. So you want to cut your mark on the nut 101.6mm (1/16") from the fret bevel. That's the standard accepted distance. You can go in or out a little more depending on your preferences!

[@LO01]

@@guitar_md Thank you very much, I really appreciate the clarification. Thank you!

[@guitar_md]

@@LO01 You're most welcome. Thanks for reaching out!

[@danyarger]

You forget slotting the nut slots for string height with your .010 feeler gauge between the fret and the string

[@guitar_md]

Yes. You can do this. However, I just prefer doing it by hand and eye, and using a digital action gauge to verify the action. I'm not against the feeler gauge method, and if I give it another chance, maybe I'll convert to it. I'm just so used to the old school way and have been doing it for such a long time, I never even think of it. Even in my updated version of this video that I posted recently, I talk about action at the 1st fret, but I don't use the feeler gauge method. I would have mentioned it for sure if I'd thought of it. I'm always looking to improve my results and streamline things, so...I'll take it under advisement. I didn't use a digital action gauge for many years, and also set neck relief by eye -- now I use digital measurements for everything and my work is more accurate than ever. So I may very well convert to using feeler gauges. Could be a huge time saver. Thanks for the comment!

[@LO01]

Hello, excuse my ignorance, but I don't understand what happens at 4:03, for example A: .024", because at 3:00 it appears A: .030". Would it be possible to explain? Thanks.

[@guitar_md]

At 3:00, I'm using the string gauge for my 6 string electric guitar, which uses a .030" for the A string -- so demonstrating the formula using a different set of strings. At 4:03, I'm using the string gauge for my 12 string, which uses a .024" for the octave higher A string -- the thicker A string being a .046." Let me know if that clears it up!

[@LO01]

@@guitar_md Thank you very much for the explanation, I understand. Congratulations for the great work.

[@guitar_md]

@@LO01 Glad that helped! And thanks again!

[@mikeatack6383]

What happens at the saddle end?

[@guitar_md]

At the actual saddle: pretty much nothing, because the string tension is so high at the contact points (nut and saddle). The nut spacing has progressively less impact on spacing the closer to the saddle you travel. You can test this out by moving a string at the nut and seeing how much the spacing changes down the fingerboard, and then closer to the saddle. The string doesn't move on the saddle at all when you bend strings, though it'll move in front of it, for example. So it will affect spacing across the whole fingerboard, but the spacing at the saddle matters a lot too, and your string spacing overall is a result of the interplay between both of them. This actually got me thinking! I've used this same caliper method to slot saddles before, including metal saddles like on electric guitars. My main Stratocaster has slots I cut with a nut file -- very shallow slots, just enough to catch the strings, but it makes a huge difference. The spacing was actually quite a bit off at first. I set the outside strings by eye, then use the same formula I used here to calculate for equal spaces between the strings. So I'm no stranger to custom string spacing at the saddle, and how much of a difference it makes, though I haven't made a video on this. 12 string saddles are another story. Typically, the mass of the bridge pins will not allow you to get the string pairs very close together. However, I don't see why you couldn't file a notch into the bridge pins to allow for much closer string pair spacing. I've actually never tried this. There's also a tool called the Stewmac Bridge Saver. I've used this many times for customer repairs, but also used it on my 12 string to move the bridge pins back, so I could have room for routing a 1/4" saddle to get better, customized intonation for my down-tuned 12 string. The tool plugs the bridge pin holes, so you can re-locate and re-drill them if you want, though the original intention of the tool is to fix damaged bridge plates, not to relocate the pins. But relocating the pins is a very handy use for it! Anyway, wow. Really got me thinking here. I may have to experiment. It is possible that narrower string pair spacing at the bridge of a 12 string could make it easier to fingerpick. However, here's one caveat: the strings vibrate much, much more violently where you fingerpick, around the soundhole. Because the string tension is lower. So some extra space between the string pairs may be necessary. I already get a little buzziness when playing hard with "normal" string pair spacing. If I moved them closer together at the saddle, it's possible that it would make the strings crash together around the soundhole while picking them, causing major buzzing. However, just a theory. Lots to think about! But best way is to test it. I will try doing this on a single string pair first and see what happens. Thanks for the great comment and question. String spacing at the saddle matters just as much as the spacing at the nut, and your total string spacing and feel of the guitar is an interplay between the two. Very interesting stuff!

[@mikeatack6383]

@@guitar_md I just converted a 12 string to a 10 string and had to fill all the peg holes at the bridge except the 2 outer ones. Moved the pairs closer together but increased the spacing in between the pairs. It’s nearly finished. Just the nut to sort out🤔🤔. Thanks for the video.

[@guitar_md]

@@mikeatack6383 Absolutely! Sounds like a cool project. Hopefully this video will help you with that!

[@erikhoffa966]

Very nice, gona make an upper Saddle to My Lincoln 12 for 50$

[@guitar_md]

Awesome! Let me know how it goes!

[@erikhoffa966]

@@guitar_md i will

[@erikhoffa966]

Hi ✓ done.

[@guitar_md]

@@erikhoffa966 How'd it come out?

[@erikhoffa966]

@@guitar_md not as Good as your,s due too tools, but better, 😃👍

[@danyarger]

Those nut files are like over $300🙄. I’m working on a 12 string I found in the trash.

[@guitar_md]

I do this professionally, and Stewmac's lifetime guarantee is also excellent for professionals who plan on doing this for decades. Already been at this almost 20 years, so well worth it for me! For a hobbyist, there are many other options now that are cheaper than Stewmac. I recommend looking on Amazon and eBay for nut files. To use this method, they have to be this style.

[@mikeregan3265]

The string pairs are too close for my taste.

[@guitar_md]

All 100% adjustable. I prefer them very close. But if you'd like them farther apart, you can use a wider feeler gauge or nut file to accomplish this. Mine are around .028" between pairs, the way I like. Stock 12 string nuts are typically around the .065" - .080" range. I've found .042" between pairs to be a good middle ground where it won't be too narrow, nor too wide. The spacing I like is definitely the most narrow I would go and may not be for everyone. I recently used .042" between pairs on a mandolin and it came out great. Generally .042" is what I use when cutting nuts for other people. Much better than the stock string pair spacing but not as insanely close as I have the strings on my Blueridge 12 string. On my electric Cozart 12 string (which I still haven't done a video for), I want to make a brass nut with adjustable height. I might use the .042" pair spacing on that. I do like the super narrow spacing but just a touch wider completely averts any potential buzzing issues from the strings crashing into each other. .042" between pairs is my general catch-all recommendation these days

[@FusionrOxGamer]

You are actually brilliant, I like your content. thanks for sharing.

[@guitar_md]

Thank you so much!