Sling TSi Build - EP 2 Corrosion Treatment - Custom Aircraft Builders

[@mikesejourne9306]

Doug, thank you very much for the great demo!! I plan to use the same method and I have a big time/cost-saving technique to suggest, but it would take too much text to discuss it here. Therefore, I will share it with you using the same email thread we used for the W&B Excel Spreadsheet. If and when we can identify a time/cost-saving technique, you can share it on your KZbin Channel, and I can do the same on the Facebook Group as well as the Sling Pilots Community Blog. My motto is, "Anything to make the build easier, faster or cheaper should be shared."

[@goadamson]

Clicked through from the Sling Builders group on Facebook and now am subscribed. Hope to build one myself soon

[@DougGoodrich]

Thanks for subscribing! Let me know when you're ready and we'll make it happen.

[@bobheide]

Watching the process from the guys who know how to do it. . Best education ever!

[@tedfox3104]

Thanks for the demo Doug corrosion protection is really important. Ted Fox

[@DougGoodrich]

My pleasure.

[@brantrobinson9013]

Great video - I’m looking to do one of these builds in the near future. Did you ever figure out a process for the larger pieces/skins?

[@petera4476]

A way better process than just seeing bare ally kit being put together. I have had to repair alot of Cessnas / Pipers, that have bulk corrosion due to the old hIgh volume producton , "aint got no time for that" aircraft that did not alodine or prime anything.

[@DougGoodrich]

Hey Peter. Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you agree. With the 6061 aluminum and alodine, these planes will last forever. Plus it's lighter then primer or zinc chromate.

[@PortCharlotteAlex]

Subscribed and looking forward building mine with you.

[@AeroplaneBuilders]

What’s the time the edging and alodine fluid will last? Like you video’s. Just ordered a Sling TSI kit and I am looking for information. Thanks from The Netherlands.

[@DougGoodrich]

I am not aware of an end time for the alodine. Once it's done, it's done and the surface is treated.

[@iFly4BBQ]

Is there any consideration for alodining the rivets? Is there any value in doing so? Also, what are your plans for non-aluminum parts that will be in contact with any aluminum?

[@DougGoodrich]

I am not that concerned with corrosion of rivets. That wouldn't happen for decades and decades. So far I am not seeing any issues with contact between parts. I'll figure it out if I do.

[@perrypike90]

Why not just do it the way the Torrance factory does it? They spray some type of corrosion treatment into the various components after they have been built and even after aircraft assembly is complete minus trim and such. Not sure if you watched the Mojogrip sling being built, but everyone kept asking about when they were going to apply the corrosion protection on the parts. Another sling Tsi builder Evan Byrne never even used corrosion compound on his Tsi because the type of aluminum alloy they manufacture the components out of doesn’t need the corrosion treatment. It’s great that being an experimental aircraft each builder can build his own way. I just thought that since your an official Airplane Factory dealer/builder, you would build and apply the corrosion treatment the same way as the Torrence factory does. This would at least from a official dealer/builder standpoint maintain some consistency in the construction of the aircraft. Just an observation. Good luck on your endeavors.

[@DougGoodrich]

Hi Perry, I understand your point but if you look a little deeper, etching and alodining IS what the factory does... the factory in South Africa. If you purchase a quick build kit or do a builder's assist with Sling Aircraft, it will be alodined. Regarding Mike Ojo's plan, I am not a fan of Corrosion X unless it's necessary. I have been a Corrosion X applicator in my retail maintenance business, Goodrich Aviation, for over 20 years. I apply it on legacy planes that are decades old. It's awful stuff... it smells and it makes a mess because it attracts dust and grime. It uses capillary action to get in between skins and rivets and I have always wondered if it's the reason you begin to see paint loosen along skin seams. You would never want to use if you were going to paint a plane in the near future for that reason. I use it because it's great for 50 year old planes and it's easy to apply, it seems to work, and it's pretty affordable. I am alodining so that I never have to use Corrosion X on a beautiful Sling that I build. At least not in my lifetime. 6064-T6 aluminum on the Sling has better corrosion resistance than 2024 on legacy planes and Van's. I like the Bonderite process because it makes the 6064 that much better, it's relatively easy to do, and it's a great value added option I can do in my build center that I think Sling owner's will want. Thanks for the comment.

[@aggibson74]

how about a recirculating tub with a hose so you can just spray the fluid onto the parts continuously instead of dunking? Similar to a part washer. May use less fluid.

[@DougGoodrich]

Hi Al. Thank you for the suggestion. I appreciate the feedback and ideas. I get where you are going with this idea, but spraying these chemicals is not a great idea. The acid is... acid and the alodine will stain clothing and the white floor paint orange. It's not stuff I want spraying and splattering. I'll have more on my system for the larger parts in near future. Stay tuned!

[@ibgarrett]

I like the tank system you have setup there. I’m hoping my kit arrives around May~ish. I am looking at using the spray etching material over the alodine so I didn’t have to mess with the tanks. In looking at the layout of the tanks it seems like the ribs and smaller parts would be a good candidate for that process over spraying. Are you putting more than one rib through the tank at any given time? Also, my thought process was to: 1. Test fit the ribs 2. Dimple the parts 3. Spray/etch the parts 4. Final Test/assembly 5. Rivet the parts. I don’t know if that is overkill or not, but I am worried about scratching more than necessary by fiddling with the parts post etching/pre-riveting... Also super jealous of the folks who have the kits - I’m ready to get busy!

[@DougGoodrich]

I understand the feeling. I watched others for a long time too. I like your process but it will be time consuming... but that's the fun of building your own plane your own way. 6061 aluminum is already very corrosion resistant. I'm not sure you will gain that much. Dimpling has very little effect on the alodine when done after treatment. Obviously countersinking and drilling will. Bonderite does make a spot treatment in a tube if you need to touch up something. www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/touchprep.php?clickkey=803132

[@ibgarrett]

@@DougGoodrich Thanks for the response... I'm just trying to be efficient about the process and don't want to add steps that are really unnecessary. I had no idea what sort of religious holy war I was wandering into when building an airplane and methods for anti-corrosion. :) Do you happen to know if it's bad to mix the anti-corrosion techniques. Like if I used the alodine coating on the ribs and then spray the spray-on coating on the contact point for the skin against the ribs? That might be faster. Just so afraid of doing it "wrong". :)

[@DougGoodrich]

@@ibgarrett I don't know... probably nothing. Yes, the priming topic has many passionate views, especially from the 2024 guys because they need it more than 6061. One tip when you get your kit. Keep it simple and keep it moving. If you get bogged down on something like priming, it's easy to get discouraged and frustrated.

[@ibgarrett]

@@DougGoodrich Fortunately I'm a stubborn a-hole and press on. :) So while I may get frustrated I'll continue forward.

[@mikezagorsky]

Question: How would this process work with the quick build kit?

[@DougGoodrich]

The factory does it in South Africa during the QB assembly.

[@tsilikasp]

I was planning to alodine the skins and wait for a couple of years to finish the assembly before painting. However, I read from multiple sources that paint will not adhere to alodined surfaces after a few days. Thougts?

[@DougGoodrich]

What sources? Feel free to pass them along to [e-mail]. I have never seen anything like that but would be interested... I'm always looking to learn and would appreciate the feedback. If you purchase the quick build option from Sling Aircraft, it comes alodined. I have seen many pictures of large aircraft on assembly lines with alodined skins. Here's the thing... I alodine more for corrosion protection internally more than for paint adhesion. We will still cuff the surface, epoxy primer, and then paint when the time comes so I don't think it's going to be any factor for paint adhesion for us. The primer we use is really good. I hope this helps!

[@mhonigful]

Do you need to prime each part after the alodining treatment or is that enough by itself for longterm protection???

[@DougGoodrich]

Hey Mark. Good to you are following along. The 6061 aluminum is great for corrosion prevention to begin with. The Bonderite process just takes it to the next level. Additional priming would be overkill. More time, expense, and weight for very little additional protection.

[@mmichaeldonavon]

Why don't you use the "Builder Assist" program and let the factory actually build the Sling TSi for you. There are other people on the web who have done that - and, somehow, were credited for the build. Just drop in now and again to see how the build is going. Trying to save you some time.

[@DougGoodrich]

Hey Michael. Thanks for watching. I think you missed that Custom Aircraft Builders is actually a Sling dealer and build center. We offer our Builder Assist program right here. "First Flight" is my own TSi build and part of our Custom Elite ready-to-fly program. Stay tuned. More videos to come shortly.