Small Route, Massive Reputation: The File

Some routes have a reputation that precedes them and The File is one of those. Ironically, size is something that both the route and its first ascensionist have in common, insofar as both are on the shorter side, but are equally renowned for their ability to pack a punch.
Don Whillans' routes are famed for their fight, often requiring a thuggish and determined approach, and The File is no exception. Whilst the advent of jamming gloves may have taken some of its edge off, you still have to know how to jam, and if you don't - you'd better brace yourself!
Thanks to @RabEquipment for making this film possible.
Kit List
Rob:
Ascendor Light Hoody: rab.equipment/...
Force Tee: rab.equipment/...
Ascendor Light Pants: rab.equipment/...
Tim:
Vapour-Rise Alpine Light Jacket: rab.equipment/...
Geon Jacket: rab.equipment/...
Force Tee: rab.equipment/...
Ascendor Light Pants: rab.equipment/...
Tim
About Rab
Over four decades have passed since the accomplished alpinist Rab Carrington crafted the first sleeping bag to bear his name, and since those early days when feathers clouded his humble attic factory like snow, Rab has become the first choice for mountain people adventuring in the world’s most hostile environments.
Ceaseless in their commitment to their founder’s exacting standards, ingenuity, and pioneering spirit, they create rugged, high-performance gear that gives you absolute protection, comfort, and freedom in the mountains. They use cutting-edge materials as well as time-tested ones such as premium quality European down. Nothing fancy or over-engineered. Just honest, hard-working kit that you’d rather repair than replace.
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#tradclimbing #rockclimbing

[@jamescampbell2521]

Well done . Must have been a completely different ballgame on passive gear as Don Whillans used in 1956.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Very much so and I am extremely glad we filmed it with all the modern equipment, as I’d have had an absolute nightmare without 🤣

[@EricForney-uz4iz]

@@jamescampbell2521 Without question, it would have been very adventurous in the 50's and 60's.

[@petergrimshaw8291]

During the first and in subsequent ascents chocks tones would have been placed, these have long since gone.

[@derekryden6574]

@@petergrimshaw8291 Yes, but I doubt Whillans would have placed more than two or three. I wonder if there's anyone alive who knows. The full set of photos came to light a few years ago of Joe Brown making the first ascent of Right Unconquerable (at Stanage) with no runners at all.

[@jamescampbell2521]

@@derekryden6574 I`m sure many early FA`s were pretty much free solo`s where a fall was avoided at all cost.

[@dominicestebanrice7460]

Wow, that brought back some memories; bad ones! I distinctly remember walking back down from Higger aged 16 in 1980 feeling utterly inadequate after flailing on this. Even with some Lawrencefield & Millstone HVSs & E1s under my belt, 'The File' kicked my arse! Placing big old hexs properly felt like a conundrum wrapped in an enigma inside a school yard brawl. I remember getting up it but in appalling style and vowing never to go back; I did of course and you two should do 'The Rasp' next. Thanks for the excellent content BTW,

[@kazzmaniandevil]

I absolutely love crack climbing. I think as a small person i always feel it gives me an opportunity to get an advantage on those taller individuals! Love the bruises and scraps that come with it. Shows I’ve earned them!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I completely agree, your body literally buzzes after a crack climb - partly through the excitement/adrenaline and partly through the scars and scrapes 😅

[@jezwilcox6696]

Seconded that back in about 1985 in the snow. My first introduction to jamming - the cuts and bruises lasted over a week. Brings back some memories!

[@dennislrobertson]

BEAUTIFUL CLIMB

[@simonrobbins815]

Love The File, what an absolute challenge at VS, did it when it was blowing a gale and I kept yo-yo'ing up and down at the roof in the gusts. Getting off was a pain in the backside too.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

The downclimb isn't to be underestimated is it?!

[@Dan_Is_Aid]

That grinding wheel stone kept catching my eye. It would be so cool to hear the history of the land if that thing could talk to you

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I should have cranked up the dial on local history, like we did with the last one in the series, which we filmed in the Llanberis Slate Quarries. Good to know people are interested in it (and that it’s not just me)!

[@samwiches1]

Loving this series - keep them coming

[@EricForney-uz4iz]

Looks Absolutely Fantastic. 👌

[@andycloquet]

Very neatly led

[@twitchyboneselectronica2375]

So this originally would have been chock stones and slings and run it out…bold!

[@blow-by-blowtrumpet]

Imagine how hard those guys could have climbed with modern proection - they were well inside their comfort zone. I climed with some old school guys in the 90's and they just did not fall. Totally different mantaltiy to the sport climding that emerged in the 90s.

[@menakles]

Tried this on a sweaty summer day and got shut down hard. Came back when the conditions were better and it felt pretty steady.

[@rockiesbouldering]

How about that stone wheel at the base? Wonder how old it is?

[@barle5566]

Fred flintstone would know

[@eclipsearchery9387]

It's a millstone, likely from 18 or 19th century. The mushroom shaped ones are really old, like the 13th century....mad. Plenty of them in this area.

[@mw5360]

Bloody love these videos.

[@SergieRachmaninoff]

Thought Brian Cox was narrating for a moment.

[@brucegray8591]

Looks harder than VS to me!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It’s certainly top end, either that or I just make it look more difficult than it actually is 😅

[@pavolk]

Nice one. Is that a millstone at the foot of the crag?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It is indeed!

[@leegosling]

I hear Don used a full set of cams that day. ;-)

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Maybe there’s another film to be made with us using the original kit, although in saying that - I’m not entirely sure how keen I would be for a body belay (let alone all the other stuff) 😱

[@leegosling]

@ Get the body belay sorted and you could emulate the estimable Mr Gibb belaying Ron on the FA of Lord of the Flies… put some body weight on and you too could climb like the Villain! Happy New Year! kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZojPdaiditNombMsi=n4tbNlHtQaffaxeb kzbin.info/www/bejne/bH-llX-ErJmIgtksi=0MHxFvc1w1zuj3es

[@donaldduck4888]

Lovely climb. Don’t recall using any of those new fangled camming things when i did it, plenty of bomber nut n hex placements. Classic vs 4c, grade is spot on. As long as you can jam.

[@Matjo7588dk]

For people using the most common rating system. Its rated as a 4c. And that does seem super sandbagged. But that somehow just makes it more British.

[@user-stupotts]

Whillans didn’t have camming devices!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I don’t think I ever said otherwise 😅

[@user-stupotts]

It wasn’t a criticism just admiration of Whillans.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Totally, it’s mind-blowing really isn’t it?! No camming devices, no climbing shoes, no chalk, no harness - and the list could go on 🤯

[@anneother6224]

Just the place to try out my new crack gloves.

[@waynehiggins899]

#cheating

[@TesterAnimal1]

Whillans would call you a poof! 😂

[@CLANK...]

6:15 is that brian cox?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I’ve known Tim for over 10 years and had never noticed the similarity until someone mentioned it earlier in this video series 🤣

[@timdennellphotography5275]

Layback it - its easier.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Is it though, is it really 😂