Smeg Induction Cooktop SIHP264S Element not working - Power Supply Repair

[@urielsmachine997]

Patience is a virtue. I knew someone would diagnose this common fault, well done Gavin! Now I will arm my self with a couple of TNY266PN and maybe a few 39ohm 1W fusible resistors...to be sure. Thanks for the informative video. 👍

[@greenenergygav8053]

Glad to help

[@bsimpson6204]

Very interesting! I have a faulty five ring Smeg hob in my utility room. It failed two years ago after the wife blew it cooking pancakes! I'll be getting it out and taking a closer look now I have an idea what does what, thank you!

[@johnhepworth1531]

I would never place a chip in a mounting socket, they tend to cause intermittent problems. Years ago when I was a TV service engineer, these sockets started to become commonplace in some manufacturers TV sets, however, they caused loads of problems with intermittent symptoms and we used to remove them and solder the chips direct to the board, which was a hell of a lot more robust and reliable.

[@TopRPDRvideos]

Great job man

[@piep2067]

Great video. I have the same unit with the same large burner with flashing E 4 code. Will the unit still work if you remove the defective burner so it can be worked on? I didn't want to decommission the whole cook top whilst working on 1 burner.

[@greenenergygav8053]

I never tried testing the cooktop with only 3 elements, but I think you should be OK. I suspect it will just show an error code for the missing burner. Make sure you don't leave any live wires in the cooktop when you remove the burner. Good luck.

[@piep2067]

@@greenenergygav8053 thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to get a licensed electrician to disconnect the defective element/ burner. Any chance we could discuss offline? Would love to pick your brain on it a bit. Cheers.

[@greenenergygav8053]

@@piep2067 Hi Pie P, I'm a little reticent to get too involved. Just be aware that the error code could reflect one of any number of issues with the burner. In my case it was a failed switching chip, but the code could also result from a failed rectifier, IGBT etc.

[@stephenrobinson8173]

Great video...thank you.

[@marchooper6589]

Thanks for the Video. I have the Same stove with the same problem. Where in Australia can you buy these parts?

[@greenenergygav8053]

Hi Marc, I think I purchased mine from Element14. I did purchase ones from eBay initially, but they were clone devices and failed relatively quickly. You'll need to find genuine devices. The cooktop has now been running for 4 years without any problems. Good luck. Cheers, Gavin.

[@markperry1526]

Reaching out to ask what wattage is the 39ohm resister and is the cooktop still running?

[@greenenergygav8053]

Hi Mark, Based on its size, I would say it's a 1 watt resistor. The cooktop is working perfectly some 2 years after the repair. Good luck. Cheers, Gavin.

[@viperflyer]

I believe that's SMPS switching IC. Was that the issue on all other burners?

[@greenenergygav8053]

Correct. Three of the burners had the exact same failure of the switching IC.

[@viperflyer]

@@greenenergygav8053 thanks. That was a great find... to get an intact cooktop like that. It is strange that those SMPS swichers failed like that from thermal over stress. The new generation cooktops with EGO modules have hard coded 140C limit.... when the whole appliance gets shut down until hysteresis condition is satisfied.

[@Fialax]

Nice job. I have one question. Friend of mine has induction cooktop and ask me to look at it. He is experiencing issues with pot sensing only some of the pots he was previously using are not recognised. I want to be ready when I take it apart as he using it daily. What would you suggest to replace? I'm suspecting some caps or resistor but I never diagnose induction hob before so any suggestions welcome. Thanks.

[@greenenergygav8053]

Hi Vaclav, I'd the first to admit I'm no expert in this field! Your friend's hob sounds like it has a challenging problem. The issue I faced was a simpler power supply problem. In the case of your friend's hob, I would first reprogram each of the elements in the hob if that's possible. You'll find instructions online for this. Other than this, you could try and swap the pot sensor from a working element to a failed element to see if that's the issue. Given the issue is with pot sensing, the electronics for this are generally not overly stressed so I can't imagine resistors blowing or caps failing - you can always check though. The board might be exposed to heat from the element, so it might be an idea to check for dry joints using a continuity meter for the electronics associated with the pot sensing. I hope this helps. Cheers, Gavin.

[@Fabcan-br8qy]

What’s the name of that chip

[@greenenergygav8053]

TNY266PN

[@ilijafilipovic9498]

puno priče- nepotrebno

[@suspendedhatch]

Practice not-saying uhh um uh um, it's very distracting and time consuming.

[@rorororov7639]

Чукча писатель - чукча не читатель 😀😃😄