Smooth vs Roughout | Nicks Handmade Boots

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In this video, Grant explains the reasons we use smooth or roughout leather. While these are the same hide, with many of the same properties, there are some subtle differences. The roughout leather will hide more abrasion and scratches than smooth leather will. If you’re looking to fix scuffs on your boots, consider switching to roughout on the lower portion of your Nicks. Here at Nicks, we pioneered this style of leather configuration, giving it the name: Hot Shot style. This is not only a favorite on the fireline, but has become a bestselling configuration for general purpose work boots. If you're hunting for the best boots around, look no further! Nicks Boots in Spokane Washington has been making the toughest handmade boots since 1964. As always, if you have additional questions, check out our FAQs below!
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[@RoseAnvil]

Dat rough-out beard tho

[@nicksboots]

We are making one for you!

[@cm0cm]

Love the fact that it keeps getting brought out in videos!

[@JvariW]

My favorite video because of the humor and personality

[@vincent67239]

Not even this comment could prepare me for its awesomeness.

[@pimpinzsoez]

@@nicksboots What about if you are in wet environments all the time? Smooth or rough out, would you grease them the same to repel water?

[@nodieusa]

The rough-out abrasion resistance is exactly why I wear builder pros to work! Yeah I know .... office environments with carpet everywhere seem harmless and all but when printers don't work or the red stapler goes missing you need all the toughness you can get!!!

[@nicksboots]

Haha nice! Gotta stay tough!

[@RockandrollNegro]

Legit worst workplace injury I ever saw was in a casual office setting. Woman was using an ancient paper shredder about the size of a small fridge, and the motor seized and shot a bunch of blades out of the front exhaust grill directly into her foot. She was wearing low-heel pumps with a big open top and was horribly lacerated on her foot, ankle and calf. It's stupid to say, but if she had been wearing 10" workboots, the injuries would have been to the leather and the company wouldn't have had to pay out hundreds of thousands of dollars for lost time and reconstructive surgery, and she would be able to wear shorts or skirts without being self-conscious about her scars. Unless I absolutely can't practically do so, I always wear leather boots pretty much everywhere I go.

[@Heavywall70]

Never take a man’s red stapler

[@shuff1111]

@@Heavywall70 Are you assuming their gender? LOL!!!!!

[@ShadeSlayer1911]

@@RockandrollNegro Holy christ, that sounds gruesome. I thought I was a bit silly for wearing work boots into the office, and I am a bit silly anyway, but there are some hidden dangers of office work. Not even crazy crap like that, but heavy things can fall and injure you. It's obviously not as dangerous as working in a factory or a warehouse or something with hard labor, but that doesn't mean no danger.

[@ravilal5939]

This is good information. I have been struggling to understand the difference between Roughout and Sued, now I know 👍🏼

[@nicksboots]

Glad we could help!

[@Nordic_Sky]

When the boot is new, the difference between roughout and smooth is dramatic. However, as the boot gets worn, the two really meld together. I've always considered these boots like old school Levi's 501s: they look best with signs of heavy use. So buy them, break them in, use the heck out of them, and enjoy the cool look (and great fit) that results. Make them yours.

[@nicksboots]

Good insight!

[@wilsjane]

Since it is the outer layer of leather that shrinks when it gets too hot, rough out boots are far better for stubble burning. Particularly if you are turning the stubble over and preventing the fire from spreading by treading it down with your boots.

[@jamesestrada82]

Thanks for telling me the difference between smooth and roughout leathers!

[@nicksboots]

Glad to help

[@jamesestrada82]

@@nicksboots I have a pair of blue roughout boots, and was wondering what product you’d recommend as far as conditioning them. I don’t want the color to be compromised.

[@jordanbeyer7607]

I was always told the grain of the leather(smooth) is the strongest. So being rough out, protects the integrity/strength alittle bit more than the other way around

[@nicksboots]

Right. It's hidden on the inside this way.

[@nicksboots]

What do you think of Grant's beard?

[@muatola2]

Kiltie!

[@minerforjob32]

loveit

[@AcapRoseknightDrummer]

are those leather beard for sale? I want a custom 12" inch leather beard please with a D width

[@aprilcarter1105]

it's perfect lol!

[@ravilal5939]

Roughout beard .. super awesome 🍻

[@chestersnapdragonmcphistic579]

US soldiers in WW2 were issued roughout boots and, being classy gentlemen, smoothed and polished the roughout with a glass bottle and wax.

[@nicksboots]

Pretty talented fellas.

[@Raiden6277]

I can’t imagine how that’s possible, but they’re soldiers. The only limit is their imagination.

[@kevinayers1528]

Being a truck driver and equipment opperator I like the smooth out . If I were in the bush all the time I would go with rough out . Looking forward to getting my Urban Loggers .

[@nicksboots]

Nice! You'll love them!

[@chriscary5302]

I am a pipe fitter, so a fair amount of wet environments. I went smoot out on my type 2's, couldn't be happier! GREAT BOOTS!

[@Heavywall70]

You had me at blood and guts ! I went with the roughout on builder pros I literally can’t wait

[@JimHep]

I went with rough out upper/lower on my last pair with a honey vibram sole. Best combo ever

[@mattsfirewoodvideos738]

I like the beard the most hahaha I'm waiting on my builder pros to show up really looking forward to it

[@nicksboots]

Haha yes! Can't wait to get them to you!

[@TC-rc1zf]

Oo false tounge omg you can buy those wherever.

[@hankatmaggies8819]

Do you know how to get to Bell's canyon?

[@glorygracek.1841]

Thank you so much! This was very helpful! For some reason I always thought the rough out wouldn't hold up as long as the smooth. Love the beard! That is exactly something my family would do!

[@jamesyers1975]

I’ve looked and looked and for the life of me I can’t find the Nick’s Beard on the website.

[@troyano6548]

Good to know, I learned something new and very useful.

[@gilbertoalvarez2061]

How does rough-out react to water? What do I use to contion it without making them darker?

[@idontgrillonwed]

Just treat it with something and don’t worry about it. I prefer Snoseal or Obenaufs but seriously…even Shell changes over the years. Embrace the patina!

[@wadepatton2433]

I reversed the scheme on my most recent pair because I have to pay custom price to get a Honey Vibram sole, and I don't want water, mud, and muck soaking into my roughout. I'll give it a try. I'll bet I can wear roughout smooth, because I've got two pairs of smooth worn nearly to roughout! 17 and 16 years on my first two pairs. I'm on my third pair and ordering a fourth soon.

[@mattsfirewoodvideos738]

Its a good day when you get the notification that you guys are gonna be shipping my boots and u.p.s provides a tracking number

[@StolenAlias]

Roughout for work and smooth for casual. Waxed flesh for both.

[@nicksboots]

Oooooo good point!

[@Yak9741]

I was wondering if there was any care difference between smoothout and roughout. Thanks for the info!

[@Eli5047]

Wow. He said right at the end of the video that care is the same

[@applespelonker]

hey nick's was just wondering if you guys could make a boot care guide

[@jarretslatten7169]

I wish I would have had a rough out work boot my buddy dropped a drill with bit next to my foot and it split the side of my boot open luckily it didn't cut

[@pwhsbuild]

Great info! Loving these new videos!

[@nicksboots]

Glad you like them!

[@Garthbrooks4756]

Does rough out absorb water easier than smooth? It's seems like my rough out boots are harder to keep waterproof than the smooth ones

[@valerieramirez3496]

Curious on any recommendations tooling roughout?! I can't find anything and yes I realize this channel is about your boots but it's by far the most informative about roughout and y'all were really nice about my saddle questions so figured it was worth asking! Working with leather helps the mind and making horse tack and other things is really fun especially proving I can do something no one thought I could!!!

[@PapaWilk]

Is Smooth or Rough-Out superior when it comes to working around dung and dirty chemicals? Say you work around gasoline, oils, cement, paint, manure etc? My instinct would be the Smooth wouldn't be as susceptible to staining and would be easier to clean.

[@PapaWilk]

I see my question is already answered above. Rough-Out does absorb more chemicals than Smooth.

[@michaelhenninger5287]

Any reason why you wouldn’t want a full rough out instead of rough out lower only?

[@wilsjane]

In most situations, it is the lower part of the boots that suffer most of the wear and abrasion. Full rough out leather was used in early firefighters boots. While they were popular among farmers who burnt the stubble, fire departments did not like them because they were difficult to keep looking clean and looking presentable. The same was true about firefighters wearing horsehide leather jackets. Presentation and costs came before safety in the early days of PPE.

[@BOYVIRGO666]

Personally i prefer smooth but thats because i work in an environment where roughout protection isnt really necessary. I should get a second pair with roughout though. Maybe after i get some nice glossy brown urban loggers.

[@nicksboots]

Good call!

[@BOYVIRGO666]

@@nicksboots More boots is never a problem until it suddenly is.

[@ErwinSchrodinger64]

Yes, do you sell the leather beard as an accessory?

[@josemanuel2244]

Very good explanation. Thanks!

[@SubjectiveFunny]

Damn, those are some good looking boots right there.

[@yourtuber5]

Is it possible to change the lower part of the boot from smooth to rough out or vice versa when going for a rebuild?

[@nicksboots]

It is!

[@charlesmyre7016]

Thumbs up on the Stormy Kroger hat.

[@OctopusHook]

Good to know, always wondered about that, thanks! (Also, I'm digging that Stormy Kromer!)

[@hamst3reet]

I work in the mining industry where I frequently walk through mud with chemicals and different oil. Will the rough out soak up the chemicals and oils more so than the smooth? Is one side any more porous than the other?

[@nicksboots]

Yes, roughout leather will absorb more chemicals and oils than the smooth side

[@ForemanMade]

I care for my boots by cleaning with saddle soap and polishing with a linseed oil and beeswax mixture. Could I do that to roughout as well?

[@MastahDriver]

Are my rough outs less waterproof? Nicks boots are the best in the wrold

[@odie2763]

I'm so tempted to get a pair of boots you have nooooooooo idea.

[@nicksboots]

We won't tell you not to 😉

[@MrHenry-vb3cr]

That beard got me 🤣

[@nicksboots]

Hahaha glad you liked it!

[@ZachBie]

I have a pair of Nick’s 10” lace-to-toe that I bought about 4-5 years ago from you guys. It seems you no longer do lace-to-toe boots, but will you still rebuild mine when it comes time in the future?

[@nicksboots]

We can rebuild them but aren't making new ones at this time.

[@dave0110aaaa]

Great video...I learned something! Thank you!

[@Nordic_Sky]

I know it's just a scrap, but it hurts me to see the smooth side of the leather scored like that! Ouch!!

[@cozmicblade4410]

Do you guys do requests for exotic leathers? I would totally buy an elk or bison leather urban logger

[@nicksboots]

We do not currently but may in the future!

[@danyram89]

I recently had the same thought about elk!!! I need something more breathable in this hot georgia weather!

[@jonhill373]

How does waxed flesh compare to smooth and rough? Is waxed flesh a rough side that’s treated differently at the tannery with wax and oils?

[@nicksboots]

Waxed flesh is a roughout leather that has been waxed down from the tannery. It is water resistant and wears really well!

[@pastelsofneptune]

Does waxed flesh have any drawbacks? Do you just have to re-apply wax every now and then (I'd assume it'd wear down after a while)? I figure it would be useful in humid climates where there's monsoons. Thanks!

[@jonhill373]

No drawbacks. Doesn’t require any treatment with normal wear for two years. Then a product like Snoseal with beeswax

[@JayyBird93]

@@nicksboots how come waxed flesh isn’t offered on the Builder Pro? Seems like it would be a good choice for a work leather

[@Juneof1944]

Is there any way to maintain the nappy look of roughout while still oiling/conditioning them?

[@Mateo_45]

I feel like the beard at the end was a subtle hint to go with roughout😬

[@Condor1970]

So, why do you keep the upper smooth, instead of rough-out for the entire boot?

[@jamrogjan1509]

after wearing roughout or a while. i think rough out is no more durable, it just hides the wear. scuff camo.

[@antoniotorres3936]

So what would you recommend for your hiking boots and are you going to make a video on them?

[@VashsAngelArm]

Can you wax rough out and get a smooth finish. Like you would a leather gun holster.

[@nicksboots]

You could! Test it on an inconspicuous area first

[@VashsAngelArm]

@@nicksboots thank you

[@dcxplant]

Would rough out be better for a motorcycle riding application?

[@thadstuart8544]

I was just on your website placing my order for urban drifters rough out. But, the cheapest shipping option was $44 to Georgia. Really? I had to wrestle with the idea of spending $550 for boots for a week. I finally decided to pull the trigger and you want to charge $44 for the slowest method of shipping you offer? I'm out. Great boots no doubt but that's ridiculous. Should be free shipping within US if someone is willing to spend over $550 for your shoes

[@asbestosfibers1325]

If they just made the cost of the boots higher and it said free shipping would that make you happy? Because that is generally how free shipping exists. Nothing is free.

[@thadstuart8544]

@@asbestosfibers1325 as long as they only increased the price of the boots by the actual shipping costs, then yes, that would be cool. I ship stuff all the time. To ship a low cut pair of boots ground doesn't cost $44 is what I'm saying.

[@aikidokamks]

I'm thinking the rough out lower would work well for a motorcycle boot and hide the wear from the shift lever better

[@jakeedgell591]

Can confirm

[@Sturnburn772]

So the "benefit" of rough out vs smooth is purely cosmetic, not functional in any way as I understand correct?

[@groques]

Do you apply wax on rough the same way you would on smooth?

[@nicksboots]

Sure do!

[@groques]

@@nicksboots thanks!! Love my boots :)

[@Devin_Stromgren]

So just out of curiosity, why is the tan leather only offered as roughout, not smooth?

[@mark_lifts_things]

Any reason not to go full roughout?

[@nicksboots]

Polishablility. Otherwise, no! They look great too!

[@DefenderHomesteading]

I had the same question. Haha

[@MrRustyStrings]

Nope! I have all smooth, roughout lower with smooth upper, and all roughout. Love them all!!

[@JayyBird93]

@@MrRustyStrings since you have experience with each, what would you choose for max longevity/durability? Do you see a difference in how they’re wearing?

[@MrRustyStrings]

@@JayyBird93 They are both going to wear better than any other boots you've ever even HEARD of, but I would say to make your choice depending on what you'll be doing in them. If you are in a tough environment that is prone to scraping and abrading your boots go roughout. If your work/life environment is a little easier on footwear and you want smooth, go smooth. Ultimately you are going to buy/own/enjoy multiple pairs of Nick's, so get the one you think will be best and then the other one next time!

[@tito1109]

can you add wd-40 to the rought side? for waterproofing

[@jordancolgan9843]

I got a question I work on concrete all day. Work in oil and water conditions. Definitely want smooth over rough out with steel toe. I am flat footed what kind of bottoms do you offer that would work for my condition. If you have a certain boot you prefer for these conditions I would love to know

[@23trololol]

If you guys offered a roughout western boot Id buy without hesistation.

[@nicksboots]

You can get one under the Packer MTO!

[@alexanderzulkarnain9831]

I like the beard.... Like Ancient Warrior 😎

[@JJ-wp5yn]

I just ordered the builder pros and sent my measurements in for the walnut builder pros, but I think I might want to change to the black option. Is it too late to change? 😓

[@nicksboots]

It's not! Shoot us an email at [e-mail]

[@TEDodd]

What measurements? Noting on the website mentions measurements to send in. Just the standard Brannock device for length and width at the ball and that's it. Nothing about heel width, arch length, width at the arch, etc.

[@F.R.G317]

Yo what is this outro song???

[@sontungdinh726]

Aw man. I wish i had one of those builder pro...

[@yorkrojas1452]

Thanks!!! Great info!!!

[@whiskey6964]

so im a mechanic that works on rigs, so i deal with alot of hot oils, grease, you name it. its a decently abrasive/slippery environment, what would you recommend?

[@nicksboots]

Any of our work boot leathers!

[@latetodagame1892]

I want to know how to get the great beard!

[@TC-rc1zf]

You need to explain what full-weight leather.

[@nicksboots]

7-8 oz Work Boot Leather!

[@madylee5173]

Why not rough-out all the way?

[@ilikehelmets4079]

For someone who blouse's or tucks in their pants would a rough out upper be a good idea?

[@nicksboots]

That's an option! The same consideration here would apply. Full Roughout boots look great too.

[@yeenosaur2620]

I did full roughout, I figured why not. I think it’s cosmetically more appealing too.

[@aprilcarter1105]

I did full roughout because I wear leggings or skirts most of the time. I never wear pants down over my boots.... and I love how they look!

[@droogbear649]

Crazy going on 9 weeks and my try out boot hasnt been shipped. When you pay 660 dollars you expect 4 to 6 weeks on a boot that takes 20 weeks to be made to actually be 4 to 6 weeks.

[@roofus1988]

going on 5 months waiting here

[@droogbear649]

@@roofus1988 for your try ons?!?!

[@wadesutton6420]

Just got mine yesterday. It was exactly 4 months from order date to delivery of my boots. Let the break in begin.

[@nicksboots]

Sorry about that! Based on sizing this can happen from time to time. Shoot us an email at [e-mail]

[@ThomasSteed]

Sand paper??? Na bro, imma stick with medium stiff nylon bristles not trying rub off the rough out prematurely.

[@nicksboots]

Haha totally understand. Sand paper is only to be used lightly 😂

[@barnhib]

No matter how hard I try, I can't make my Stormy Kromer hat work for me either.

[@nicksboots]

They're nice but definitely unique.

[@stanbrown915]

I guess one of each in every color then....BY BY SAVINGS ACCOUNT!🤣🤣🤣

[@shadymaint1]

For a mechanic that is around grease and oil all day long I imagine a smooth finish would be better. Easier to clean off.

[@nicksboots]

Good point!

[@cfrost87]

Thats where the made to order option comes in.

[@Inbal_Feuchtwanger]

What makes me hesitant to go roughout is Id assume water resistance is a bigger issue as well as debris(In my case small chunks of pork and beef) getting stuck more easily to the surface of my boots. I love the idea of my boots not looking all scuffed up after just a couple months of use, but its difficult to know without more research which is more right for me.

[@evergreenorganics]

When a man wears a Stormy Kromer to talk leather, I listen.

[@gqfiend]

“...you’re gonna Seymour.”

[@nicksboots]

??

[@gqfiend]

@@nicksboots hey...don’t ask me. YOU said it.

[@Philo68]

You looked like Santa back in his prime!

[@ironlion805]

Wait, these are made from animals?

[@collinmcduffie7426]

All leather products are.

[@miopera40]

Rough out makes no sense at all on work boots. You are basically exposing the weaker less dense part of the leather to the elements and the less breathable and moisture absorbing side on the inside. If you don't want your hard leather side to look cracked overtime just use nubuck.

[@toadamine]

Roughout looks like shit all the time... Smooth looks good new and looks good with damage after a good cleaning and oiling.

[@dontorres2055]

I’m so confused! Help me