Smoothing and Painting the Praetorian Guard helmet from the Mandalorian in less than half of a day.

[@robbizza1]

I dont comment alot on YT videos but i had to let you know that i love your videos and you do absolutely amazing work. I really like how you go into detail on all your methods,why you chose what you did, the products or alternatives you recommend, sharing your knowledge and your teaching methods. You're the first content creater i have actually set notifications on for and i watch alot of YT especially for learning steps and processes for post processing. Im only about 8 months in to printing and but i have changed a bunch of my methods since watching your content especially the filler,love the high build filler. I know your content is fairly new but i honestly think you have found the right recipe to become a top content creator in 3d printing community. If you start a patreon or a discord you got yourself a follower right here. Keep it up and thank you,looking forward to future videos.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Thank you, I really appreciate the support. I love sharing information and plan on making many more videos. Im just happy that so many people are finding some value in these videos. Stay tuned and please feel free to reach out if there is something you would like to see me do.

[@robbizza1]

@TheLastLayer111 absolutely! I read through all your comments last night and it seems you not only have the right information and processes for newbies but people that have been printing for years, you're definitely doing it right.Also with your processes and recommended products I have skipped multiple steps I have been doing that wasted so much time,so thank you.

[@brentcox6201]

can't argue with your results, I have appreciated you pushing me towards these automotive primers and clears

[@TheLastLayer111]

If you got any questions, please feel free to reach out.

[@brentcox6201]

@@TheLastLayer111 thank you sir, you are a gentleman

[@DaanPol]

I really like your style of teaching. You have completely demystified print post processing for me.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Im happy to hear that. I think it can be very daunting for a lot of people, I really enjoy that part of the process. I feel Its where you creation take on it character. Hopefully everyone gets a little something from the videos. Thank you

[@DaanPol]

@@TheLastLayer111 Thank you so much for all the effort you put in. As a matter of fact I am quite sad right now, I have finished all your videos and need to wait for a new one haha! I have actually just ordered a Bambu P1S, a compressor and a spray gun to restart this hobby again. I was one of the first to have an Ultimaker in the Netherlands, and we even 3D printed an entire 1/1 scale submarine using a robot arm running upscaled Ultimaker Gcode to print a prototype of our sub! The post processing took the most time of all and deterred me a litlle bit from printing.

[@TheLastLayer111]

@@DaanPol Glad to see you are getting back in to it. The Bambu P1s is an awesome printer. The hobby is much more "user friendly" then it was years ago. The printer is pretty much plug-and-play. I think you will be real happy. More videos coming soon🙂

[@joeyjones4535]

Man I've been doing props for years and made over 200 helmets in total, and you just taught me multiple things in a few videos today. Fantastic information you are providing. I've seen probably 95% of the helmet makers on youtube and usually just watch as background noise. Nobody is providing this level of useful information. Very excited to see future videos

[@TheLastLayer111]

Thank you it really appreciated. Please feel free to jump in with any suggestions. I love trying new things. Its all about sharing with the community and enjoying what you are doing.

[@davidcooper574]

I got the contour glazing putty. I’ve been using resin. Waiting for my Death Trooper helmet to finish printing to try it out. Keep up the great content.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Thank for your support

[@lucianogargiulo1332]

it's incredible you didn't sand the model.. this automotive 2k primer are amazing!!! i bought 1Lt here in italy to try it on an iron man helmet.. can't wait it arrives!

[@TheLastLayer111]

if I'm doing a gloss finish I do sand, for flat finishes, I really only need to sand the bad spots. The good thing about the primer is that it levels great and sands very easily. It really minimizes the amount of time required for sanding.

[@lucianogargiulo1332]

@@TheLastLayer111oh you do sanding the model? I taught you didn’t, in this video and in the video where you brush on the primer on the iron man face plate, you didn’t sand and the props came out perfect..

[@treborrrrr]

I see a Terminator arm lamp poking out in the background there. I just finished mine last week :) I designed a different base for it though to make the shape closer to the movie version.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Thats cool. Im not going to lie, that print was a lot of work.

[@treborrrrr]

@@TheLastLayer111 Yeah, not exactly something you finish up in half a day :D

[@overout6021]

Awesome work. Would love to see your method fitting the visors.

[@TheLastLayer111]

On this print it is easy, Galactic armory has a groove in their files that it slots in to. They also include a template. But speaking of visors, I am going to put together a short video, because I don't use film any longer. I changed to spraying my visors with tinted paint. hopefully coming soon. thanks for your support.

[@mikethomas2408]

Wish I could do my prints that quick, takes me weeks with work, printing helmets in multiple Parts and joining and you can’t get 1/2 these products in the UK.

[@TheLastLayer111]

They dont have to be these specific brands. All professional automotive products should perform about the same. Not sure if you have an autobody supply around?

[@MrPraymojo]

Another great video keep them up! will like to know why u switch from the 2k primer filler to the rattle can for second go

[@TheLastLayer111]

After i sand the heavy coat of primer with 220, there will be sanding scratches left behind. So I hit it with a light coat of the spray primer to fill those and wet sand it with 400. If you try to paint over the 220 scratches, you will see them in the gloss coat.

[@MrPraymojo]

@@TheLastLayer111 thankyou for your response. keep up the great content

[@kf7tkj]

I am working on my first helmet and have a plan for most things but the finish was worrying me. My first helmet will be the original vader helmet so it needs to be shiny! I have a drip D1 on order, and some of the clear you have been using, I look for ward to trying this! Quick question, I'm assuming these types of clear coats can be buffed and or sanded if you get some orange peel? Thanks for all the videos, I find them to be the most real to life info without all the fluff! - edited for spelling-

[@TheLastLayer111]

Absolutely, its an automotive clear, it buffs and polishes like a mirror. It also provides UV protection, so your helmet will stay black and not fade over time. Its good stuff. Follow the manufacturers cure time before buffing.

[@kf7tkj]

@@TheLastLayer111 Awesome thank you for the answer!

[@jawajunction]

Did you change your drizzle settings at all for the clear coat? Previously you mentioned having the volume at 2.5 turns. are you still using that or have you adjusted. I found with 2.5 turns it really isnt getting good coverage.

[@TheLastLayer111]

I actually have been using the drizzle wide open, the same way i use my other spray guns, this may be a bit too fast for some people, but im used to it. I think I actually sprayed this one with a different spray gun. But the drizzle sprays pretty much the same.

[@thegreat3Dini]

Could you explain in your own words what you mean when you say flash, in regards to the painting process? Earlier when you layed down the base coat of red, you said it had flashed because it had a flat, matte appearance, but during the clear coat process, you wait until it's flashed for about 15 minuted before starting the second coat of clear, and the helmet was glossy at that time. Is flash a substitute for dry, or cure? What are indicators are you looking for?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Flashed is the point at which it is dry enough that it quits releasing solvents. in better terms, the outer "shell" has dried. The first coat of red was dried, it was a satin paint (Krylon fusion satin), the second coat was a ultra flat (Rustoleum Chalked Ultra Flat), that's why it look so much flatter. I changed because I didn't like the color. The easiest way to check "flash" is look for what painters call "hand slick". what that means is if you can drag a finger across it lightly and the paint is not sticky or wet. it may grip a bit but your finger can slide across it. Its hard to explain, but that's why there are specific recoat times on spray-paint. Just follow the 15min and 30min rules for clear and you should be fine. for spray paint, follow the recoat times on the can and you will be fine. hope that helps

[@theamzngq]

am I right in assuming that any acrylic thinner will work with the Roberlo primer?

[@TheLastLayer111]

That I cannot say for certain. I have always used their reducer, because I have it and it lasts forever. I would suggest trying a small amount before mixing a full batch. One thing I have found with reducers and activators, is a lot of them work together, even though the manufacturer does not state it.

[@theamzngq]

@@TheLastLayer111 Thanks for the info. The reason I ask is that I'm having a hard time finding the stuff you used in your video, and since the label says "acrylic thinner", I hoped that any acrylic thinner could be used. Again, I appreciate the info you're putting out there, I've not seen anyone in the 3D printing/model making space talk about these automotive products. I used it on a project just yesterday that is due Friday, and it does make a huge difference. Goes on nice and thick but still sands like a dream.