Sniper vs. Fitech - Which is Better? The Pros and Cons of Each

DISCLAIMER: These videos show my way of doing things. Don't necessarily follow my advice, I could be wrong. You are responsible for your actions. Not me.
I get asked about this as I run one of each on my vehicles. Which do you like better? Sniper or the Fitech. They both have their pros and cons.

[@r1g2v3]

Thank you for your time in putting this together , it helps to hear both sides. .

[@mikeburnett7028]

I have a FiTech on my 71 big block Nova. Was on the car when I bought it. Runs great, no problems. Taking it on Power Tour next month. Wish me luck

[@ninja6567]

How was the tour?

[@mikeburnett7028]

Tour was great, as always, but hot. Got 17 mpg

[@4406bbldb]

Ha I tuned in 9 months later. So how did you do. I went to 131 in Michigan a few years back and wanted to compete but enjoyed watching.

[@mikeburnett7028]

@@4406bbldb going on power tour again this year. Can hardly wait. Added an electric fan to the car to aid in cooling

[@daledassel5658]

Thanks for your input on these systems. Im building a 200 for a 62 Falcon and will be installing the Sniper 1100 full system on it. Your experience will certainly be helpful!

[@kellvinb88]

Great comparison video ! Thanks ! Very helpful

[@4406bbldb]

Bravo , good job. I’m a retired Chrysler performance technician and you are vary easy to listen too. Man you got me reminiscing. I started in 69 and did research and development till I gave up on the company. 😎 Mopar

[@jacklander233]

I was on the fence about which one to buy... now I'm really not sure what to get haha. I like that direct ignition system I think I'm going to get that first. great video thanks

[@anonymouscitizen9630]

Thanks for the video, you made my mind up, sticking with a regular old school carb.

[@donalddrane2795]

Yes me too. 3ecu failures on 2 installs is all I need to know. I have never had a carb strand me!

[@coldblazinfire]

Sweeeeet rides! I appreciate the info. Researching for my 66 Chevelle Malibu powered by a GM crate 350.

[@JakeHarrington]

Sounds like you've got a good amount of knowledge on these setups! I am installing a FiTech 800hp kit on my Nova! I can't wait!

[@patrickbrooks7337]

Great video. I've been researching retro fit EFI systems for my 383 stroker. Reviews and youtube video's show they have many issues an not dependable. Very interested in the Aces Killshot however, because the ECM is external of the throttle body and they claim the ECM is more powerful and robust. You should do a review on that one next!

[@mechtrician1]

I agree that any one of the systems that has the ECU external will be better. The Holley Terminator TBI units use the HP ECU. They are excellent but you’ll pay for it.

[@howdydoo8921]

I ran the FiTech GoEFI 600 first on my Dodge Magnum 408 with MSD 6AL ignition. I ran the FiTech in 2019, ran OK but the ECU had extreme heat sensitivity. I went through three FiTech's before switching to Sniper. With the FiTech I had a 160 degree thermostat installed, and coolant stayed down between 145-150. FiTech didn't like that because their systems don't learn until 160. I never saw this requirement anywhere in their literature, or the FiTech, Jeg's, or Summit websites. I still can't find the 160 degree requirement published anywhere. It is necessary for learning however. I have a CAI installed pulling air from the fender well, and a 1/2" phenolic spacer. AC is gone too, so has direct air flow from the cooling fan even though it goes through the radiator first. Should have kept the ECU cool enough to prevent failures, but it did not. On the third strike for the FiTech GoEFI 600 I switched to Sniper, and added a 180 degree thermostat. The throttle linkage on the FiTech worked out a little easier than the Sniper. I also prefer the cable for the FiTech handheld because it was easier to snake through the firewall and up onto the dash. I ran both handhelds from holders that suck down on the windshield - used a cell phone holder for the Sniper. Personally I like the Sniper software for the computer better, and was able to do a better job tuning the fuel and cold starts with it. However! I have had 2 Sniper ECU's die, and one mechanical failure with the throttle shaft bearings. I was thinking hard about going to a carb, but I require a good TPS signal to my Mopar 46RE transmission that is controlled by E-Transcontrol. Just not much confidence in the add on TPS mechanisms. So now I have 3 strikes on Sniper, and Holley has no replacements, nor ECU's anywhere. Not Holley, Jeg's, Summit, nor Speedway. Nobody knows when these will be available again either. It is August 2022. I did purchase a 3 year warranty from Jeg's on the Sniper, so I hope that will work out in the end. Except!!! I am now purchasing a FiTech Mean Street just to keep my truck from sitting for 3+ months. I have purchased the extended warranty from Jeg's for the Mean Street. Fortunately these replacements have been covered by warranties and help from Jeg's. I remain astounded at the lack of reliability of these units since they are all $1000 or more. Guess I'll try swapping to a 1" spacer. Don't know if an RPM Air Gap might help, but sure couldn't hurt. So, as "build it in your garage" says below, it is likely best to purchase a system that has the ECU separate so that it can be located away from the engine heat.

[@Campbase1]

I have thought about taking my Sniper off. Right now it just stalls once when the engine hits 160. When I smooth the tables, it runs worse. Other than that, I like that I can change timing on the fly, and control fans, and see engine temperatures, and see Rpm, and see voltage, and see mixture. Lots of advantages but its not reliable.

[@kurtvanluven9351]

Riverside? I'm from San Bernardino. Not anymore though. I'll be sure whatever I buy, I'll make my own harness. As an electronics tech, I am not going to waste time with RF problems. Thanks for the video.

[@builditinyourgarage7826]

Thank you for the input on the systems. I have been looking at this as well. I also don't like the idea of the controller on the carb, that is why I am going with the Holley Terminator 4150 which has a separate controller. I would like to hear your thoughts on that over what you currently have installed. I have ran terminator controllers on several LS engines with little to no issues. Also I think the Terminator 4150 requires a external fuel regulator, which would also solve the regulator issues you have had.

[@mechtrician1]

It’s a much better system. It uses the HP ECU. Much better than the TB mounted ECUs.

[@AmericanMuscleCarsR]

Could of taken the air filters off . Good information that makes me just stick with a good ol carburetor

[@-garagehome4444]

Which is better holley or fitech ?

[@randythompson4006]

Does it really cost the company more if they're replacing multiple ecu's per customer?

[@requiem6988]

I need help. I installed a fitech 2 barrel on a 22r. Eats gas like a twin turbo supercharged 468. Lol. And only makes power at 10-15% throttle. After that it bogs down but still goes just not great. Runs hotter then i like and pops in and out of throttle. Plz help. Need info. Emailed fitech no help.

[@supersportimpalass]

I’d be curious how Jegs new Bandit system works. I had Holleys first 2 barrel system on a 302w and then upgraded to their 4DI system when I built my 351w in my Bronco. Both had their quirks. Most of the time they ran great but was annoying when on certain occasions ran like crap. I was looking at both the FITech and Sniper setups for a current project as i felt time has passed they would have all the kinks ironed out. Sad to say looking at the reviews have me second guessing spending the money again and possibly going back to a carb. Not sure if I’m willing to gamble on the higher end Edelbrock or Holley systems and still have issues. I hate decisions like this I might regret later.

[@RealGenX]

Bandit is the FiTech . Same as the summit max efi

[@randalljames1]

quality of the install says a lot about reliability... FiTech shot themselves in the foot with that Fuel command center.. negates about 90% of the EFI advantages.. I have had good luck with the ign control on the Fitech.. For a street car? I tend to lean towards the Fitech as it is more likely IMO to work for the DIY guys.. For all out hotrods? FiTech does not allow so much tweaking by necessity.. Sniper? can mess with a lot of stuff and either get better or worse.. FItech to me is absolutely more of a bolt it on and go... I would say dedicated wiring, fresh dedicated well sized fuel lines and an in-tank pump? either system will get you where you want to go..

[@thomashorgan5554]

Can you recommend the best product to purchase to shield the wires? Should both power and ground (tach) wires be shielded for best results? All I have now is aluminum foil on my tach wire. Thanks

[@mechtrician1]

Something like this will probably work for you. amzn.to/3f6y6ze

[@armygreenfj3924]

Do you think the Fi-Tech is just as good as the Holley as far as reliability?

[@BreakingBadGarage]

What would you recommend for a Chevy 350 engine for a daily driver?

[@ajose223w3]

Do you know anything about the ultra ram system from Fitech

[@metalbill]

I just don’t trust the failure points with these. My carburetors will always get me home. I enjoy being the ECM for my carbs.

[@daviddavid5880]

Side note: I'd be a lot more amenable to Holley if that hyper spark distributor wasn't so comedically expensive.

[@nickreese521]

What brand, or style of sensors did you say the Fitech uses? I would like to purchase new genuine sensors for mine.

[@mechtrician1]

If you search my videos for Fitech sensors, you’ll find one where I go through all of the good replacements.

[@coolacadien]

I wonder if the Edelbrock pro-flow efi is more reliable

[@ethanparsley9000]

On the holly distributer do you have an issue with when your setting timing you get shocked when you turn it

[@mechtrician1]

Nope. It’s insulated pretty well.

[@madpapa4914]

We've had 2 Snipers and 2 FiTech's and so far it's 2-1 Sniper. Have had way fewer headaches with the Snipers. I don't know what he's talking about with needing the software for the Sniper we've never had to dig into it and they run great.

[@mechtrician1]

You really do need to have the software for the Snipers. Yes, you can run them solely by setting them up with the handheld, but that means very basic timing setup and basic learn transferring. Even Holley tells you you really need to setup a 3D timing map to tune properly. It’s in their video that explains how to setup a timing table. The basic timing setup has a very aggressive curve. It’ll run that way, but it’s far from efficient. If you aren’t running timing control, you need the software less, but it’s still pretty important.

[@slaskey]

What sensor are you replacing

[@coolacadien]

Why does carburetor doesn’t work well with the fuel these days? I’m curious before I go buy a new crate engine

[@russellapplegate5661]

Good info... I'll stick with a carb

[@dougbawden4321]

Can these be mounted vertically? Like a side draught carb setup?

[@mechtrician1]

I don't see why not, but I would confirm with Holley or Fitech.

[@MrJDRACING]

sniper you can fully go in and tune it fuel maps everything fitech if you dont have the expensive one you got to drive it to get the fuel map calibrate it sniper i can tune the map whit a lap top whit fitech you cant i tune fuel tables sniper 2 to 3 pulls the full trottle is tune half hour on the street i can shuff off the o2 sensor it will run fine fitech you have to drive it alot to get the tune done self tuning

[@edcucchiarella7994]

Thoughts on a Edelbrock Proflo 4

[@mechtrician1]

I've never played it with personally, but I have heard good things. Not sure now that Edelbrock got bought out.

[@kevintimothyshields]

At 14:06 you refer to an "old video" with Sniper install advice. Would you kindly reply back with a link to that video? I looked in your video list and I am not finding it... many thanks in advance!

[@mechtrician1]

It’s actually a Fitech video, but it’s the same tips for Sniper too. Here is the link. Fitech Basic Tips kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqDJo3WVntKUjJI I also did a full sniper install on a 1100 unit that I explain some things on here. Holley Sniper 1100 Install, Initial Setup and First Start kzbin.info/www/bejne/nGaoXoBpl52KpcU

[@kevintimothyshields]

@@mechtrician1 Thank you!!!

[@kevintimothyshields]

@@mechtrician1 Your tips video is super useful, thanks again. As you are an engineer I have a physics question that is related but not exactly germane of your videos. Thanks in advance should you be so kind to reply anyway. I have the Holley in-tank pump for '66 mustang. It has a 5/16" stainless steel exit orifice. Holley advises running 3/8" Injector Hose to Sniper EFI (which is ~13 feet of hose). Question: Is it inappropriate to instead run 5/16" stainless steel line for the length of the car and then terminate in the engine bay with 3/8" hose (and filter) at the EFI? I understand that (all things equal) pressure decreases with distance... but I don't know the extent to which (if at all) pressure is impacted by line diameter... or whether there would be an impact on volume delivered. The fuel *will* pass through 5/16" either way - at minimum the ~3in pump orifice. Meanwhile pump power and distance are fixed (it's the same pump either way, and it is the same distance either way). Therefore, it would seem to me that using ~13 feet of 5/16" hard line rather than 3/8" hose would be immaterial. Once you have introduced both diameters the relative distance of one vs the other would seem to be largely irrelevant? I suppose that there is less surface resistance in the larger diameter passage (a lower % of fuel delivered will scrub gainst the inside of the passage). However, the pump also would be pushing less total mass of fuel (the weight of fuel in the line will be lower because the line is smaller diameter than the hose). So those two factors would seem to offset? A related question: It seems like a fuel pressure gauge is an incomplete diagnosis tool. Aren't you also concerned with the volume being delivered (flow rate)? It seems like a very narrow line can deliver the same pressure... but it would fail to deliver the same volume? (To wit: If you had a somewhat pinched hose you might not detect a change in pressure, however you may have a reduced flow rate... and therefore may have a fuel delivery issue even though your pressure seems fine?)

[@wilsonhortman4110]

Going back to carb. Nothing but problems with holley sniper. Parts failures, flooding.

[@timothyleonard5540]

So I'm gonna use fitech 625hp system on a late model 302 what ignition system should I use

[@mechtrician1]

Thats up to you. I would use a mag pickup distributor and utilize timing control with the Fitech at a minimum. If you wanted to get really fancy, you can get an MSD DIS system for it. It is a coil on plug system.

[@timothyleonard5540]

@@mechtrician1 well going jn a t bucket with zoomies I could probably do coil on plug and mount the coils on the rails or below the headers

[@mechtrician1]

@@timothyleonard5540 well it’s what I run and I love it. MSD makes a DIS for the 302. Look up MSD Direct Ignition System.

[@mikenolan3599]

Do you have a part number for the ecu replacement you talked about for the fitech

[@mechtrician1]

I do not. I took it directly to Fitech and they took care of it.

[@mikenolan3599]

Ok in your video you talked about a gm ,Delco replacement for the ecu sensor, do you have a number for that

[@mechtrician1]

@@mikenolan3599 this is what I have in my notes for the sensors. Oxygen sensor: 2001-2004 VW Beetle Upstream #17014 CTS: Chevrolet 1985-2007. PN: 15326386 TPS: Chevrolet Camaro 1991-1995 17106681 IAC: Chevrolet Camaro 1995-1997 19333273

[@mikenolan3599]

Thank you buddy

[@armygreenfj3924]

In other words stick to carburetor?

[@mechtrician1]

Once you get them dialed in, they beat carbs big time in drivability and adaptability. I’m happy with both systems.

[@vinse001]

Have you installed a sniper efi with a pro charger?

[@mechtrician1]

I personally have not. Lots of installs out there that have though. Pretty straight forward.

[@vinse001]

@@mechtrician1 do you know if the distributor msd ready to run have to be locked out?

[@mechtrician1]

@@vinse001 if you plan to use timing control, yes you need to lock it out. It doesn’t come locked out. If you want to use timing control, go with the Hyperspark distributor.

[@vinse001]

@@mechtrician1 ok a better question is should I lock out my distributor for boost? What’s better for the engine?

[@mechtrician1]

@@vinse001 absolutely. Much easier to control the timing that way.

[@deanstevenson6527]

Four dumb steps for Holley and FiTech were:. 1. Anyone who puts an ECU on a fuel supply device ( carb, EFi, air cleaner) .... Mopar sure proved from 78 to 89 that just wasn't a prudent long term solution. 2.Crank position sensor. Ford and GM used early Crank Position sensors on the Bendix Oldsmobile/ Caddilac 350 port EFi and 79-84 Ford 5.0Liter EEC III Central Fuel Injection. Holley and FiTech don't, and as such, they dont jell with Non GM style ignition systems. It's simply a bad step isto have no dedicated digital crank sensor, which would then allow Ignition type to be totally free choice to customer, with a huge cost reduction. Thirdly, any time you go Throttle body EFi, you Really have to go to a four corner idle fuel injector control to make sure curb idle isn't going to have to be crutched up from hanging by subsidiary use of the MAP sensor and Idle Air Control. All the modern Holley and FiTech ECUs rely on cycling the MAP and TPS and ignition control, with IAC and ignition tip in to control drivability, whereas just a simple four corner idle with a good adaptor would solve 90 % of the problems. Fourth, any EFi system needs 40 key parts to run it, but any stock 1962 to 1989 carb engine only needs 13 systems to run. So already, the ECM is held shot gun by another 27 extra low quality, below OEM quality dirt bags that will chop out at random. The hand controller then becomes a crutch to prop up a raft of messed up systems. Return lines, low fuel supply, crash fuel cut off, hot fuel handling with oxygenated fuel blends...your hand controller won't tell you what's not working in those areas because everything is a custom owner hot rod system. So get used to a raft of durability and dead on side of road faults. Chrysler Corp were practically bankrupted by systems like this, and It's only Holley and FiTech's follow up services and the goodwill of the people that by into the Throttle Body Insanity that will make these systems a success.

[@andersonsprairieviewfarm2552]

Sounds to me like there both junk, I don't like failures, that's not acceptable at all, maybe I should stick with the factory EFI or Holly carburetor.

[@philh9238]

There both junk. I was trying to get both to run right on a dodge 340 never could. So just pulled the engine installed a later dodge magnum engine and pcm from a Dodge Ram. Starts and drives just like a late model vehicle

[@coolacadien]

So basically both are not reliable as car manufacturers products 🤔 and I should stay away from having headaches.

[@mechtrician1]

I ultimately went MPFI using a Holley HP ECU replacing my sniper. It’s OEM quality and has been extremely reliable for the last 1.5 years now. If you spend big money you get good quality and reliability with the modern world of EFI.

[@jimmyspears1004]

You kept trying give fitech the upper hand but you kept going back to the sniper. Stop lying to yourself. Sniper is the better one. Listen to your voice in the video.

[@bdd1469]

Of the roughly dozen people I know with fi tech you are the first I've ever heard say anything good about it. Most of them have all gone back to carbs or switched to Holley.

[@mechtrician1]

To be honest, I think the Fitech runs better. They are just as problematic at the Snipers.