SNK Neo Geo MV4 (4 Slot) Repair Part 2 (Cleanup, Testing & Electrolysis Rust Removal / Zinc Plating)

[@GadgetUK164]

Part 1 - kzbin.info/www/bejne/movSh4WLqKx7jKc NOTE: The negative croc clip there - it's very likely stainless steel. So that would result into a very small amount of chromium coming off into the water. If you connect up in a similar way, consider connecting some steel wire to the object you are de-rusting and have the croc clip outside of the tank.

[@5976575]

Excellent work! I wonder if removing rust or oxidation from the soldier joints may be accelerated by Sodium persulfate or Ferric Chloride. I think that this is pretty reasonable approach, might be safe if applied carefully, may save countless of hours. Please do not throw away this conception, it might sound crazy but is much cheaper than deoxit as well as it is much faster and less harmful than mechanical removal. Please try it at least one time on any junk board. Please also take a look at products dedicated to ultrasonic cleaners. They work for me well as well without ultrasonic cleaner.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D I wouldn't use Ferric Chloride as that will eat through any exposed copper!

[@TheHighlander71]

You're an absolute madman Chris. I can't believe you electrolised and then zink coated that thing and got away with it. Not only that, it looks amazing! You may have poisoned yourself in the process but you did it! You amazing crazy person. Well done.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks mate =D Yes, I think I went too far with this one! It was an experience though! I hope I didn't poison myself - gradually improving but slowily =/

[@TheHighlander71]

@@GadgetUK164 Learning by doing...the best way of getting ahead. You don't have 15k subs for nothing of course.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@SimonZerafa]

We need to start a drinking game! Everytime we hear the phrase SuperClean™, take a drink. I would suggest something non-alcoholic unless you wish to get rather tipsy 😀 Amazing attention to detail, as always, and a SuperClean™ board at the end 🙂👍

[@blackcountryme]

*Hic

[@GadgetUK164]

LMAO =D *Hic

[@slaytallica136]

I've used electrolysis a bunch. Works great. I do it outside in a a 20 gallon bucket with a car battery charger. I use metal tent stakes and put them circling the part with metal wire tying them together. I think it took so long cause you just had the one rod and a bench power supply. I've done rusty car and scooter parts that were rustier than your shroud.

[@GadgetUK164]

That's definitely the way to go - with a 20 gallon bucket and car charger!

[@scottstw456]

Really professional work. Also the Electrolysis Rust Removal & Zinc Plating was very interesting. Thank you for showing that!

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@Fille-lj1qv]

Top repair and cleaning,what some owners do with those stuff is unbelievable. Its now in good hands.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@cheater00]

at 8:23 you can try using a hard pencil eraser instead. use a hard one. it can work better than a fibre glass pen.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks, yes I do often use an eraser for that sort of thing =D

[@s8n187]

phenomenal effort and end product Chris , you always amaze me. Also wishing you a speedy recovery , sincerely DEAN

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@keithmcgerr3056]

Amazing content and videos as always, you're the watchdog / guardian of Neogeo's giving them lots of TLC!

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@Four_X]

Top video Chris, you've done a great job on repairing and restoring that Neo Geo MVS 4 Slot. Hope Ant (Big Nutz and the Horse) over at Riot Retro Gaming love the Neo Geo just like we do.

[@GadgetUK164]

Cheers mate =D I hope Ant gets it up and running without issue. Paranoid incase something goes awry with however it gets powered - supergun PCB I hope!

[@75slaine]

I was looking forward to that part of the series. Congrats on the turn around. Clearly a lot of effort put into that restoration but it paid off nicely.

[@GadgetUK164]

Cheers =D

[@refractionpcsx2]

Great video dude, I hope you're starting to feel better since it was recorded!

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks! I am marginally better - still having a tonne of problem with my left leg though =/

[@refractionpcsx2]

@@GadgetUK164 Well lets hope it recovers soon!

[@georgelea4297]

excellent video as always Chris sitting down with my breakfast and a cuppa hope you feel better soon

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@googleaccount3555]

There are some products on the market that are reusable and rechargable aerosol spraycans. It is usually a quality container that you can open up, fill with a liquid and preasurise afterwards. This might be an interesting option for you if you go through a lot of spraycan products.

[@Plan-C]

Wow! That was some mission! I tip my hat sir! Going above and beyond there... Hope you feel better soon. Not worth risking your health, no matter how rare these things are. Keep well.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks mate =D Yes, I really should have worn the gloves - especially at the point I removed the shell from the rusty water.

[@n.h.s.a.d.m.]

Great results on that restore process. Hope you're feeling better soon!

[@GadgetUK164]

Many thanks! =D

[@sheep1ewe]

I realy love this type of restoration videos!!

[@michaelsworkshop9031]

WD-40 (the lubricant spray company) has started making a contact cleaner similar to de-oxit, along with a few other specialist sprays for the trades and home workshop markets. It looks like Amazon carries it in the UK, so you can probably order some online and try it out and see how it works for your purposes. Great video - best wishes.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks! I will check that out!!!

[@xnonsuchx]

That little 2mL tube of DeOxIT is about $5-6 each in the US. 25mL bottles are about $22-25.

[@GadgetUK164]

Ouch - so still expensive over there! That said, it's cheaper in the US than here in europe =/

[@Charlie-Cat.]

Hello Chris, Another well done and carefully thought out video by you on repair this 4 slotted MVS board kind sir. I just finally had a change to see the 2 part series regarding this piece and happy to see you doing what you do best and making it back to playable condition bro. 8^) I posted both videos on the Neo-Geo thread on Atriage.com for you. It's on post #18,947 for you to view. Thank you again Chris. Sorry for the delay on posting it, I'm really backlogged and starting to catch up with others that are patiently waiting for their works to be posted. Anthony..

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks Anthony =D

[@michaellowery1559]

I would have used white vinegar, if it had chrome plating just fine sand after then spray it with zinc spray can.

[@GadgetUK164]

I used white vinegar for the plating part. It certainly would be better to spray it rather than plate it I think!

[@loganjorgensen]

Night & day mate, great job. Electrolysis, interesting process, more chemistry than I thought heh. Yeah I see the car dip is Phosphoric acid.

[@andrewlittleboy8532]

Made my Saturday morning!

[@GadgetUK164]

Cheers =D

[@itamarazulai6767]

Great video as always. Hope you feel better soon

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@GameTechRefuge]

Some solid chemistry. That has to have taken some time, research into the electrolysis alone must have taken allot of time. Great job.

[@AdamSommer70]

Very interesting, hope you're feeling better. Thanks for posting

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks! =D

[@Dizzy_Hites]

Fantastic refurb 👍, I do hope you are feeling better.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thankyou!

[@FaSMaN]

Fantastic repair , well done :)

[@GadgetUK164]

Cheers =D

[@andrewlittleboy8532]

Deoxit is fantastic stuff!

[@GadgetUK164]

Yes, I do like it! I had a tin years ago but just haven't got around to replacing it yet. Same with my freezer spray lol - those two things are the most expensive consumables for doing repair work =/

[@MindFlareRetro]

Holy crap, am I behind in commenting. 🤦‍♂️ I'll have to start keeping notes to remember what I wanted to say, besides the usual, *great video!* This was super interesting, as I have several C64 RF modules covered in rust. I think I'll give this a try. Oh... and by the way... great video! ;)

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D Be very careful with anything shiney - it could be chrome plated! I suspect most pieces of shielding have chrome plating!

[@MindFlareRetro]

@@GadgetUK164Yes! Good point. Are the RF lids chrome plated or polished metal? [rhetorical question to myself]

[@GadgetUK164]

I suspect they are chromated! Most of that old shielding is like that (eg. A500).

[@kentb3175]

Not commented before but an avid fan, with regard to the labels you can use lacquer on the labels rather that sellotape.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D Yes, that would be a nice way to protect them! I think Ant should sand and spray it, then add new labels, and then lacquer it! =D

[@9ElevenGamer]

Bloody Hell that's a dirty dog, you did an epic job mate.

[@GadgetUK164]

Cheers mate =D

[@9ElevenGamer]

Any ideas on why my GBA freaks out when I play GBA games on it but regular GB and GBC all work fine? I am flummoxed, I've cleaned the pins, pushed them outward very slightly, cleaned it all, looked for anything obvious like corrosion leaky cap's etc., I just don't get it, I am wondering if it's a power thing or the processor has gone nuts, to be honest I am out of my depth, any help would be good I am alright with my soldering but I can't see an issue, it kind of freaks out and makes an awful noise then black or white screens whilst the noise continues, the GB/GBC games no issues at all. and I've tried loads.

[@GadgetUK164]

@@9ElevenGamer That is interesting! My first thought would be a bad connection on the cart - ie. not all of the same pins might be used with a GBA game cart. That said, they might be connected to totally different chips inside, it's possible there a fault on the GBA chipset that for whatever reason means the GB side works OK. Have you checked all the F marked components on the board - eg. F1. Should measure as a short! If any of those are open circuit you could just have a blown fuse.

[@9ElevenGamer]

Cheers, I'll look into that are they the really tiny ones? I'll find it, sure it'll be marked on the board, I had an issue with a previous GBA the second model and that just needed the Fuse Bridging easy fix if a little tricky due to the minute size of it, but it worked.

[@bwack]

Very interesting to see the electrolysis in action! The bad cart connection I was wondrring maybe there was a cracked solder joint ? But looking at the amount of dirt on the board the contacts were probably just as dirty. Whats your thoughts on wadhing boards in dishwashing machine?

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks my friend =D I think if I had a dish washer, and if it was large enough - I might give it a go and just rinse off with IPA or distilled water afterwards. It would save a LOT of time!

[@gibant1]

Love the ..... Do as I say, not as I do safety advise

[@GadgetUK164]

I know lol, I need to start practising what I preach =/

[@dazsly]

Brilliant job! I would love one. Could you powdercoat the metal?

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks! Yes - that's a nice way to finish it off I think =D

[@paulmcnally]

Also amused by “it’s the best way probably. Rather than having a hydrogen explosion in the house”

[@GadgetUK164]

Haha :o)

[@danielson9579]

25quid a tin sod that acetone should work just mind certain plastics with it 😕

[@brianwalker7771]

I have never worked on a neo geo how hard is it to remove the slots via de soldering from the board? I would think an ultrasonic cleaner would make short work of getting them clean as can be. That board is giant though thus the thought of removing the slots rather than trying to clean the whole board in a cleaner.

[@GadgetUK164]

With a good desoldering station they aren't too hard to remove! Cleaning in an ultrasonic bath would be the best way for sure! I just don't have one, or a dish washer for that matter lol =D

[@DNinjaDave]

Was the flickering on the game you said was designed for CRT a trick they used for some reason? Did it make the scene look dimmer or somthing else?

[@GadgetUK164]

I think it was supposed to make the screen look dimmer - not 100% sure. It could be a bug in that version of the game too. I think I have another ROM for this so I might try that out to see if it behaves the same. The cart is a reproduction as it was never officially released.

[@lastclass74]

hi GadgetUK164 .. great video learn at lot .. got my mv4ft2 running watching some of your videos :) .. can you tell me what eprom to use for a replacement for the LO-ROM ? thx .. hope you get well soon and we get to see more neo-geo repair videos

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks! You can use a 27C010 (128K), but you might need a wire or two to change the OE or CS I think. Look at the MV1F schematics, see the LO ROM chip on there and look at its pinouts, compare to the pinouts of the 27C010 and you will see where you need a wire or two to swap two of the pins.

[@Adrian_Finn]

Heard you mention JoulesperCoulomb towards the end of the video there, do we know what happened to him as he seems to disappeared off the radar and stopped posting content, he did some wonderful videos.

[@JohnGotts]

I like CRC contact cleaner. Might be a cheaper alternative.

[@wimwiddershins]

Next time I have to do a full board clean I'm going to experiment with methanol in a tub and submerse the whole thing. Then reclaim the liquid with filter paper.

[@GadgetUK164]

I did save the white vinegar with Zinc disolved in it! That way I can at least easily Zinc plate other things now!

[@gloriou]

Hello, I got NEO-MVH 6 slots type whole arcade. No display no sound. I'm lost..... Please help

[@GadgetUK164]

Battery corrosion is the most likely cause! See my other 6 slot, 4 slot and 2 slot videos. You should start by seeing if SMK Dan Diagnostic BIOS boots and gives any info on bad RAM. If that doesnt boot, chances are there's a databus conflict or something wrong with the addressing of the ROM at reset, or perhaps a reset issue.

[@LFOSyncToo]

Hi Gadget! If I may say, I would have de-sandwiched the 2 boards and then put them in the dishwasher. Seems extreme but I had a lot of success with this method. It really spares oneself a lot of time and hassle, plus the boards come squeaky clean after this procedure. You just need to displace the water afterwards with compressed air, and then spray the whole board with IPA to help evaporate any residual humidity. As an alternative to the dishwasher, you can wash the boards with warm water and detergent in the kitchen sink, or in the bathtub, while agitating the soapy water with a brush. This way you can obtain boards which not only look clean, but are also completely dirt-free from under the chips themselves. The dirt stuck under those simply can't be completely removed when solely using cotton buds and kitchen rolls...

[@GadgetUK164]

Sadly I don't have a dish washer - I am the dish washer in this house lol =D

[@LFOSyncToo]

@@GadgetUK164Ho I understand. Like I said, you can try the alternative as well :-) But I don't know if it would be so easy to film...

[@Calden00]

Maybe it was "Metal fume fever"?

[@GadgetUK164]

Possible! There was a point for a few seconds where I didn't wear a mask too (when I started using the steel wool).

[@RiotRetroGaming]

1st

[@kcase601]

Would you be willing to share the labels for the top of the 4 Slot Neo Geo?

[@GadgetUK164]

www.dropbox.com/s/0bz5t69n10s51r1/MV4%20Labels.zip?dl=0 They will need resizing - I did this before printing in Paint Shop Pro. Try printing to standard A4 first so you can work out how much they need increasing or decreasing in size. Then print to a sheet of sticky paper. You would then need to cut them out with a guilotine (or sharp knife and ruler). You can protect the labels also my sticking wide selotape over them before you cut them out.

[@kcase601]

@@GadgetUK164 Thanks.

[@FernandoelChachi]

I've really liked to see the electrolysis and zinc plating processes. Thanks. But seeing the result I would just had sanded it and applied some Hammerite direct to rust spray. www.hammerite.co.uk/product/direct-to-rust-metal-paint-aerosol-smooth-finish/ Edit: Now I'm listening the problems with your health. Get well, luck. And next time try what I say just in case. TBH I haven't tried that myself, but only Hammerite Rust remover (that leaves a black finish) or also used Hammerite Martele paint that leaves a finish just like yours. Both worked right, but "direct to rust" seems to be a good option.

[@paulmcnally]

Nicked some of the missus’ nail polish to cover some traces the other week and I was rooting around for a dark green and she said “why don’t you use any, is it not going to be inside something else and nobody will see it”. And there, is the difference between the two sexes.

[@GadgetUK164]

LOL!!!

[@Deutschland01]

Great video, i don't think you have girly hands!

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@craiggilchrist4223]

Super super super smashing great lol

[@GadgetUK164]

LOL =D

[@blackcountryme]

Couldn't you get it plated by a company?

[@GadgetUK164]

Yes, I am sure that's possible! One of my earlier ideas (for my 1st 4 slot) was to take it to a car body shop and have them sand it down, power coat it and professionally spray it etc.

[@blackcountryme]

@@GadgetUK164 was the shielding needed for an earth i.e. left as metal (not powder coated or sprayed)?

[@808v1]

such a dirty dirty slot...

[@blackcountryme]

Said the vicar to the prostitute!

[@GadgetUK164]

Haha =D

[@Stjaernljus]

Ask deoxit for some, show yor videos and they will probably send you some for free because marketing.

[@HuntersMoon78]

That's a good idea.

[@GadgetUK164]

Hehe, I might do that - feels kinda cheeky though lol =D