So that's why my engine BLEW UP....Again

[@Taylordrifts]

I still work at BC Racing guys! It's an old shirt from when I worked at oriellys. It's just a good shirt for wrenching when it's chilly out. Lol

[@haydenracingusa9630]

Taylor Ray Good to know. I was seriously confused for a second

[@sillysloth9331]

Taylor Ray if the same thing happened to your old motor the first time what kind of boost where you running before you said you where running 10psi this time it could be too much for stock internals

[@Vert344]

Soo thinking its time to swap a new motor in it??

[@traciespivey1687]

Mad Mike Haltech is good but what it cost it just isn't worth it for this setup and especially since he doesn't plan on keeping the car

[@Mowerguy94]

maybe go forged internals?

[@meister3pc]

the chances of Taylor seeing this are probably so low. but I just want him to see how great of a program he has. whether the videos are shorter or longer I couldn't care less. the quality of the videos are great or atleast what I want to see from someone like my self. keep it up!

[@Taylordrifts]

+Austin Laflamme I read all the comments! They're my favorite part(: Thank you for this. It means a lot!

[@NashCBJ]

So depressing seeing people walk around in short sleeve shirts in January, while I'm over here freezing my fucking balls off haha

[@rangatar]

NashCBJ try being in Australia right now :( rare to be under 30-35c

[@Dannyyzeee]

florida

[@jacobmahoney72]

NashCBJ same I live in Ohio it's freezing outside

[@cajunspecial238]

I live in Louisiana and wear shorts and flip flops almost year around.

[@Deivijs]

Latvia fucking -22°C here.

[@thdkid0618]

no I want longer videos. I like the 25 plus mins. A 9min vlog is pointless. Keep up the great work

[@that_slow_6646]

Douglas Fargo couldn't say it any better.

[@jakobrkerr]

Douglas Fargo honestly it depends on the day. Sometimes I don't have the time for a 25 minute video, but a 10 usually fits fine.

[@Caseys_Garage]

Douglas Fargo agree

[@rsturba]

Make this the top comment. Short videos are boring! Everyone does them and doesn't show any detail or process

[@brandondeel3567]

I'd say the ring gap too. why not file them down, upen them up. banging off the limiter like you do is a lot of stress and temp in the cylinder walls. those rings are getting hot enough to close the gap and cause the top of the piston to plus off. you definitely should(for precautionary reasons) increase the ring gap.

[@brandondeel3567]

*bust off, not plus off... damn auto correct. damn almost got me with the Danny correct.

[@BoostedSpeedDemon]

Setting the ring gaps isn't for blowby either buddy. it's so that when cylinder temperatures get hot, and the piston rings expand from the Heat, the ends of the Ring do not but together from running out of room in the end gap. Because when that gap fully closes, the ring has nothing to do except for to go upward which breaks the ring land. Miatas have a very tight ring Gap from the factory. Any sort of turbocharging even 5 PSI is going to result in a ringland failure even with a good tune when you are wide open throttle the whole time like you are with drifting. It's the extended period of engine loading under boost that causes the Rings to expand from excessive heat in the cylinder. If you open up that Gap, they will have more room to expand, and will not close the gap any more.

[@mkISaG]

How did rudnicks mx5 survive a beating and you're dies in a day

[@connorwhite102]

no fucks givein thats y if wont it to live it fucks up but if you try kill it you cant lol

[@SkyrimsDeadra]

Mk Jimbob someone know Chris rodknock

[@fox10169]

Mk Jimbob because Rudnick is getting 250k mile + engines and it's just blowing the boost by the old worn out rings lol

[@benwilkinson1594]

what i was thinking the whole time lol

[@WTGRacing]

idk, his miata ripped before it threw a rod. I doubt it was low on compression.

[@garrettcalvert6967]

Hello Taylor, I'm not that familiar with these type of engines but I build Small Block Chevy circle track engines and it seems to me that the problem you are having is related to the piston ring gap. If you have to small of a ring gap the top ring will absorb heat intill the ring gap is used up then the piston ring has no place to expand to and it will pop the top of the piston off like you have been experiencing. Different types of Pistons have a vast range depending on the application. Pistons such as Keith Black hypereutectic pistons require much more ring gap due to the construction of the piston. I'm not sure what type of Pistons are in your engine.

[@Taylordrifts]

+Garrett Calvert thanks for the advice Garrett! Looks like I'll have to gap them this time around.

[@burkolicious]

Wait, did you not gap them at all last time?

[@JpL4K3]

You working for BC still?

[@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf]

If your friend was actually untorquing the head Bolts in this clip. They were not torqued tight. You are supposed to tighten them in a order with a Torque wrench. Not sure your foot lbs on that motor. But if you are not tightening the bolts till they are difficult to turn on the last sequence, say after you do a round of 10 12 bolts 3 Or 4 times. It is usually 1/4 to 1/2 a turn of the bolt once you reach 100 ft lbs or whatever OEM Torque specs are. You need a Torque wrench to put them on and a Torque wrench to take them off. I usually do a pattern set of bolts 6 times or less depending on when the bolt becomes very difficult to turn and when I know the head is torqued secure and flat. That way when the motor gets hot the bolts will not stretch. Clean and sanded surfaces are the only way to properly seal the small holes and gaps. I use the blue shop rags to lower coolant or oil in the holes. Just don't loose a piece in a hole. The 3m sanding blocks are like a rectangle. They are next to the yellow blocks just like it.

[@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf]

Just rember, lower the coolant and oil galleys with suction or shop towels carefully, Clean block, studs and head with oreilly brake cleaner, Sand block and head till shiny with no gasket material or raises from material on surfaces. You can also use a razor blade and chip off any raises of old gasket that won't sand. Clean block and head, and studs with oreilly brake cleaner. Then install without touching your clean surfaces. You can use a clean blue paper shop rag to hold the gasket and install it. I also use blue paper shop rags to gently clean the surfaces. But fold the rag into a square, spray with cleaner and gently glaze the cleaner on the block and head till your rags show no signs of dirt or oil. Brake cleaner and engine oil do not mix. So don't directly spray the block or head. You can spray the head, but you have to drain and evaporate the cleaner very well. If you want to clean the pistons, use the brake cleaner on rags before the sanding and cleaning procedure. If you do, before you start the project just in case you take more than a week to finish. Put some transmission fluid on a blue rag and coat the cylinder walls so they do not rust. If you clean the pistons and experience some carbon buildup, get the most of it out with a clean blue rag. Torque and clean / flat surfaces always guarantee a good head gasket repair.

[@seanm5069]

man you and pistons have a love/hate relationship😂

[@jabaricooper]

couldn't say it better myself

[@omgitsjosh7305]

he should try rotary 🤘🏽#rotangklan

[@andrepvp]

I like the longer vids, cus I wait to 02.00 just to whatch your vids :) keep up the good work Taylor:) !

[@PapaHett]

Danger to manifold

[@anthonysmalawipredators8794]

lol

[@mobshitmobshit8594]

+shane0clock lmfao i never understood why the floor fell off, or why was there even a square plate on the floor, lmao and what did it have to do with the manifold 😂

[@g3t0wNeD420]

mobshit mobshit the floor fell off when the vibrations from the motor rattled the bolts loose on the fixed floor panel that prob rotted away before being riced out just a suggestion

[@mattguyver02]

Coming from a 323 GT 1.6l guy, I think your problem lies within the block. From what I've gathered over the years from various sources and blowing up my own B6T multiple times, is that the stock bore becomes oblonged over the years therefore changing the bore size causing a failure like this. The boost pressure is sneaking by the rings because the bore is no longer true and lifting the ring lands causing this failure. That's why when you look for aftermarket or stock style pistons, you can't find a set with a std bore. Try getting the block bored out .020 over and a set of .020 oversized pistons. Then you will know that your bore size is true.

[@dillonm367]

ring gap is your problem. that's destroying your pistons. basic things you need to know before boosting any engine.

[@Taylordrifts]

+dillon myers I mean. I opened up the ring gap when I built my sr. But I didn't take this bottom end apart.

[@BoostedSpeedDemon]

dillon myers that's what I said.

[@_Gingium_]

How much boost/horsepower were you running?

[@_Gingium_]

Nvm, just saw. Stock Miata motors should easily be able to handle that amount of power! Greg got 300WHP out of a stock motor lol

[@erics.3586]

Gingium hey Gingium Love ur Videos!!

[@Seandoestech]

Gingium Greg only got 300 hp for like an hour before he blew it up :) but yeah 10 psi should be fine on stock internals. I see this as a combination of things, head gasket (torque that thing down!) over heating (drift cars dont get the same cooling flow as race cars, need bigger rad and dual fans!) and tune (run race gas, rx7 injectors, keep spark under 21° in boost, but you didn't detonate right, Taylor? those pistons heads dont look melted.)

[@Taylordrifts]

+Gingium right!? Doesn't make any sense. Guess I'll go the extra mile on the next motor.

[@cheapcharlie7]

You need to increase the clearance on your piston rings. If you are looking for examples, read up on the number 1 cause of junkyard 5.3 LS's dieing after having their output massively increased. The Rings pinch up.

[@zackdoubleZ]

I think it's a ring gap issue as well considering 1.6 miatas are at 9.4:1 compression stock and 1.8 is at 9:1 which isn't crazy high for 10psi but that isn't the only factor the piston material make up cast vs foraged will be what will limit you and it seems like the stock ring gap isn't enough for the stock pistons to handle the boost because when the ring gap tightens up it will crack the top section of the piston a good example is nitrous applications but considering you have had the same problem twice it probably wouldn't hurt to gap the rings, go with a stronger piston, or turn the boost down a bit. Good luck keep up the work

[@DunkinDonutt]

I enjoy the Miata rebuild videos a lot sooo I guess there is a plus side to the Miata destroying itself. Looking forward to seeing what this new drift car is.

[@Dirtfloorfab]

Taylor if you haven't got the motor back together it. is pretty important to check ring gap at any boost. stock bore and a standard set of Hastings moly rings in my lq4 LS ranged from .008 gap to .015. .008 is way to tight even at low boost. I filed mine to .026 on the #1 and #2 ring. I don't know what you have for pistons in the motor but a hypereutectic or a cast Pistons don't withstand ring butting at all.

[@chasedavenport6407]

I really like the longer videos, they allow you to give us more detail on what you're doing.

[@artiems]

I would look into the tune and start reading plugs and if your ECU can do it..... put EGT' sensors on each runner look into Individual Cylinder trim for 1 and 4, and run some colder plugs Start with adding a 5% compensation to those cylinders to even them out, do a run, check plugs and adjust from there till they are burning evenly and not showing any signs of rounding or detonation. Had a similar issue with my 25 detonating in 1 + 6 and melting plugs (seems to be due to the greddy plenum design) so added extra trim to those 2 cyliners, to richen them up and went fine after that. Belt the piss out of it regularly, data log all the inputs. AFRs, egts and knock are all within spec and only issue i got now is the clutch hahaa. But that's just my 2 cents, maybe its something you might find worth looking at, maybe not haha, either way keep up the sick vids :)

[@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf]

Don't forget to clean and sand around the grommets that center the head. there is 2 of them usually. but the flat corners of the sanding block will do the job. I can sometimes remove the retainers to clean the block. but they don't always come out without a special tool.

[@yoitdsdhani]

I actually like the longer videos as long as there's a good amount of content :P

[@mtsnks]

this is my first time watching your videos and a have to say the quality of this video editing is truly amazing keep doing what you're doing :)

[@mattwilliams2709]

I've seen this more than once in NA cars as well as boosted cars where the ring end gap isn't kept at a safe distance. 10lbs is a fair amount of boost. Any boost can cause enough heat to start making the rings expand much more than in a N/A situation. There is a chance you're getting bad boost readings and you're getting more boost than you think when you're at the top of the revs in a turn and looking away from the gauges. Here is what I would have to look at, You comment on everything you're changing between the 2 builds that blew up. What stayed the same and what parts did you transfer from the old blown motor to this motor that just went up? Same water pump? Maybe its not pumping enough. Maybe there is a blockage in some of the cooling parts. Maybe you're blocking something off that needs flow. Compare your build to a Miata that you know runs right with at least 10 lbs of boost and go from there. I'd be looking at what you haven't changed vs what you did change. This is my opinion, I could be wrong. Keep up with the videos and thanks for posting.

[@GTarditi]

If you're still running OEM pistons, I'd change to some similar weight aftermarket ones if possible, that might get rid of your problem. Don't know if you've used the same brand of pistons on both blown motors but if so then common point of failure suggests the pistons might be too weak for what you're running(although miata engines can generally take way more abuse than 10psi, so why they're breaking is beyond me)

[@Hondatech26]

I feel pretty good saying that ring end gap is your problem, but it would be nice to confirm with evidence, as opposed to making an educated guess. If you're able to, remove a piston or two and take the top rings off. Examine the edges where they would butt up to each other if the ring end gap were zero. Do they look polished? Also, are the rings just a shade of grey, or do they have a bluish color? I see most people saying make the ring end gaps bigger but not telling you by how much or even how to determine how much. If you want, shoot me a message and I can run some numbers. If you can give me some measurements from new block you're going to use I can get you a good estimate for where to set the gap on the top two rings. All the best and good luck with the next one.

[@theSemperFiBolter]

Ring gap is 100% correct. I am a gold certified jaguar tech for 12 years and have built many turbo and nitrous engines. This failure so due to expansion of the piston ring during high heat, the piston ring doesn't have anywhere else to expand to so it follows the path of least resistance which is the upper ring land the ring ends pinch together and create a pyramid which blows apart the upper part of the piston. better piston rings and piston ring Gap clearancing is required for this application.

[@CafeBikeGirl]

Are the rings still in one piece? As you start pushing higher power and higher RPM especially when the engine is under low load (i.e. spinning the tires while drifting) the rings start getting really sensitive to clearances. If you are running stock pistons and rings I would not be surprised to see this. I would recommend trying to get clearance between the ring and the groove wall to about .001", as mentioned in the video ring gap could do it too if the rings are expanding and seizing in the bore. There is an interesting phenomenon which happens with engines of age where there may be a lip at the top of the cylinder because the top ring never goes up that high, if you bored the engine these should be gone but if not deflection in the crank and rod assembly can cause the piston to travel a little higher than normal under high rpm, the top ring slams into this ledge and consequently beats itself to death. If this happened the walls on the ring grove will probably no longer be parallel and parts of the top ring land might be missing (as shown).

[@yesilikejapan9245]

Idk if this would be the issue but miatas have very poor cooling to the back two pistons especially cylinder 4, there is a coolant re route you can buy to make sure that you keep those rear pistons cool. Hope this helps!

[@mesuttasdemir4618]

you Will be take adam's sr20det engine :)

[@stephencain3467]

that would actually be perfect for the miata

[@Ic1uch2MucH]

Mesut Taşdemir he has a k20 engine

[@mesuttasdemir4618]

Ic1uch2MucH aww i just thinking thats Stock engine :(

[@Ic1uch2MucH]

Mesut Taşdemir this is the same engine that blew up last time

[@mesuttasdemir4618]

Ic1uch2MucH i know that :) thank you

[@Bataleon2320]

whats up with the o'rallys shirt? You not working for BC anymore?

[@nakkinator]

Miata engines have a known issue where Cylinder 4 does not get enough coolant flow. A lot of the miata guys do a coolant reroute that makes the coolant flow front to back instead of just around cylinder 1. There's a ton of official kits out there and a few DIY ones as well depending on your budget. Edit - this would then contribute to the issues you're seeing here where the ring lands over heat and close the gap so you crack the pistons as you show in the video.

[@Ed_Garage]

at 5:50 you talk about boost and ring gap. Its not the boost or letting excess blow by. But you need more ring gap because of heat. Heat expands metals and rings. So the rings will expand to a point that the ends will touch and that ruins the rings, ring lands. You expand gaps when going boost so that the rings can expand and not touch.

[@joannaatkins822]

I'm so glad you're going with the LS swap, and I am massively excited for your new project car! I hope the miata doesn't give you too much more hell, you need a break with that little rocket that keeps popping.

[@lynette0503]

I'm a new subscriber but I really like your vlogs cause your talking about what your doing when your working on ur car so it's helping me learn more.

[@lochnessmonstere3042]

I know that you aren't going to keep the car, but in the future you should consider adding a water/methanol setup. They can be had for under $200 (often under $100) and they add a margin of safety. Crazy drop in intake temps and effectively higher octane. I run megasquirt on an e30 and intake temps drop 50-60 degrees using alcohol/water. One of my favorite "bang for your buck" mods. Anything that instills confidence and saves money in the long run is a good move.

[@matthewchin2495]

Whe Adam swapped to the 2jz you should take the Sr-20 and put it in the Miata

[@skylerbowles6134]

I tore the motor apart in my car this winter (gt2860rs on 12 psi) and it did the exact same thing to #4. My guess is the #4 cylinder heats up more than the other due to the way it was supposed to be oriented, causing the ring to heat and expand more and the ends butt up and push upward destroying the Ringland, like you were saying.

[@S130-s4o]

Ricer Miata lasted some much longer without half the stuff Taylor put into his Miata lol

[@JackHolden50]

that is so depressingly true, and he was literally trying to blow up the black mazda. All Rudnik has is an FMU right?

[@S130-s4o]

Jack Holden lol I think turbo, intercooler and fuel pressure regulator and he did a 5 min burnout in first gear redlining it the hole time

[@blablablaqwd]

... + without the alternator belt, so without waterpump.

[@hardrock7407]

Forged pistons would help the ring lands from breaking off. Common failure with Subarus and the fix is to install forged pistons. Adjusting ring gap can also help. Get your hands on the b6t specs for a gtx or mercury capri and see what the ring gap on the factory turbo 1.6 engine is.

[@ghettoflyer]

General rule of turbo on stock internals is 5 to 6 LBs of boost safely 7 to 8 LBs of boost is usually the limit stock... Before you need to do things like gap the rings more vent the crank case better... ETC.

[@802Garage]

If you are running 10 pounds of boost, especially if you are at stock compression, everything I have seen says you definitely need to increase your ring gap to wider than factory. Turbo means more heat, more heat is more expansion. If the rings have zero gap then when the ends meet it will cause the ring to bind and flex up or down. This can crack ring lands. The fact that it's top of the pisto, and the top ring would get hottest makes me especially suspect this. I would look into increasing the ring gap if I were you.

[@DinoDzine]

Man i am so excited for all the new stuff going on!! I cant wait till im older and have cool car friends like you guys

[@dansmith9298]

I ran a 1.8 with a flying miata turbo kit. put 297 to the rear wheel at 12lbs psi, had a mazda shop tune it, but ran the piss out of that stock motor for 20k miles and when I sold it it still ran strong. never bounced it off the Rev limiter thou, but auto crossed and took to track days, u just have bad luck

[@stonemason9063]

the reason for ring gap is because the rings expand when they get hot, being that they're the friction surface for the piston, they get hotter the more rpms you stay at filing them down that extra .0004 keeps them from pushing on each other and pushing one out. so the higher the rpms the more necessary it is to file that gap.

[@snooopy365]

Maybe you looking at the problem from the wrong direction? If the ringlands break it doesn't have to be the combustion itself that did it. The rings are gaped to stock miata specs? The pistons will get hotter if you turbo the car. If the gap is to small it can not handle the greater expansion of the the piston/rings itself. Then they "close" the ring gap and after that they have no more room for expansion so the force from the expansion goes directly into the ringlands and will crack them. Maybe this is your problem?

[@rt4wd_wolff]

I like your long vids! Definitely go all forged internals man!

[@zykonot]

Make sure to angle torque your head bolts(TTT/ torque to tighten). Improper tightening could cause cylinder taper issues, which might cause piston ring ends to butt up against each other, leading to the cracked pistons? Detonation comes to mind next, but you said it was on low boost. File the ring gap more? Just some food for thought

[@Belial-kun]

coolant bypass and gap them rings. my 1.8 scorched the number4 piston more then once

[@joshuagonzales210]

I thought I was the only one that still wore my oriellys work shirt, even though I don't work there anymore. Keep up the good work, I enjoy your videos!

[@titaniummazdaspeed6]

Maybe look into getting some cheap(ish) forged pistons for reassurance, then file the ring gaps a bit looser than stock tolerances. I'd take burning a bit more oil over ring butting or overall piston failure any day. I know you're looking to get rid of the car, but with those pistons, at least there's some confidence that they won't keep breaking on someone else.

[@PeachLifeProductions]

Dang bro that sucks about the motor. But your get it fixed up. And man I hope the new car is an 2005 GTO 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻

[@Lemon0Tart]

Taylor you need a coolant reroute! (unless I missed you taking it out in the vid). What ECU are you running? Does it log data?

[@codylenhardt4967]

Ring end gaps are definitely something to consider. You really should gap them larger. Anytime you are adding forced induction the gaps must be changed because more pressure means heat generated and more heat leads to more thermal expansion.

[@joelcr250]

*RING GAPE.......... I MEAN GAP*

[@Elxmo]

CR2504life different website bruh.

[@joelcr250]

lol , oh ............ yah

[@4theloveofDub]

I was thinking the same thing... maybe not enough gap.

[@ZombieObsidian]

Ring gaps are two small!! Seen it keep happening even with lower boost levels.

[@knoflook46]

i love the videos longer and always explaining what youre doing!!:) makes it interesting to watch and i learn a thing or 2! thanks for the great content and keep going! stoked for the new project!

[@danielandersen7887]

Mr. Taylor Ray. I'm not a "KZbiner" or "troll" I spend my time wrenching or sliding.Ive had a 1996 NA and 2001 NB tan top 6speed. My NB was 12k original miles mint. Never slid it, too good. My NA 1.8l T25, Danny George knuckles took a royal beating every day. LOOK UP the cylinder head cooling issue. Cylinder 1 and 4 get starved of coolant at high rpm and boost. There are a few cross-over tube mods that work all depends on your setup. Your tune, fuel, ring gap, head gasket and spark are probably TOO GOOD for the cooling abilities of that head. Remember the miata or MX5 was a car designed by Ford in California to resemble the nimble British sports cars. Mazda is great but if Ford is involved theres always going to be some stupid flaw. High compression stroked naturally asperated builds dont really have this issue but over 5psi and I had those strange issues. Tried billet pistons, high performance parts lots of wasted $$$. Just port the cooling passages in the head as much as fucking possible. 3 core radiator and EXTRA FANS for high rpm drifting. Its not that you are "overheating" your temp will be " normal" at the cluster/ECU but inside the head at both ends 1&4 you are probably around 230F at 10psi boost stock compression, rich mix and modest timing/cam. Do yourself a favor of the wasted engine blocks, smoked heads bending valves and overtime time a half that you never saw. Do a crossover mod, upgrade fans, Radiator, lower thermostat temp 165f worked for me. Or save all the custom shit and get an SR20DET put rocker arm stoppers a ball bearing disco potato and beat it to death!!!!

[@Ninja5959222]

with the piston under more load the gap is closed up and blows out the ringland , gap it larger then factory specs ,love the videos man 👍👍

[@kawaiirunnersdriftclub]

It is possible to get stronger pistons for the Miata block? Also, it doesn't looked that bad on the head/pistons to be either too rich or lean, but at least from my experience, we don't use timming on a turbo engine. Good luck on your upcoming projects Taylor! o/

[@Yuecantme]

Low Speed Pre-ignition. Possibly.. Too much load at too low of a RPM, causes a random knock and usually blows up in cylinders 1-4 which get the hottest the fastest. Use better oil like Castrol Edge or Amsoil Signature series that is designed to prevent ignitable droplets of oil that are left on the wall when the piston goes down. When pressure increases at too high a load, it will ignite those oil droplets, causing premature detonation. I would also consider consistently data logging when driving after a tune for a week or so to pick up any tale signs of trouble. You gotta be careful low loading an engine because that turbo spools quickly and sends too much air in at once. I not sure if LSPI can happen on port injected cars but it sure looks like what happened. That OR your ring gap is out of whack.

[@chevyjimmy]

well.... everyone is saying that ring gap is your problem... and that is right, but this engines usually take more boost than that ! so i really think you have more of a heat problem with too lean of a tune :) but next time, open up the gap a bit, in a boosted application you do not loose that much by doing that, and it gives you alot more headroom, altho i would still fix the tune of the engine :)

[@BlakesGarage]

Do you have a AOS or Oil Catch can? You maybe getting a bunch of blowby causing detonation and then eventually ring land failure.

[@Nickrpm]

hi probably won't take this advice but the con rod in 1 and 4 could be slightly bent a few thou causing the piston to go off track resulting the ring having too much strain then that pressure will be put on the piston causing the breakages.. just a thought

[@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf]

Looks like either you did not sand the block with a sanding block, or you did not Torque the head Bolts enough to stay down. You need from "oreillys". 2 black sanding blocks, 2 cans of oreilly brake cleaner. apply brake cleaner to rags and clean both surfaces. Avoid soaking your 3m sanding block in cleaner or it will fall apart. Sand block with studs out and make sure it looks like fresh metal.

[@Life_of_Edwin]

Hey Kevin (Taylor) for your car can you add a little tutorials for your new car and what you add to it so if someone wants build it and so we know the cost to build it if someone else want to build it similar to yours? do you understand please ask any questions so I can try to clarify

[@xRiseHeartzZ]

+1 for ring gap, pretty much making too much power/too much heat for the stock set up, they pretty much just heat up to the point where the gap closes completely and has no where to go so they break the ringland, plus there looks like theres a little detonation on the tops of the pistons but idk if i'd blame that considering you've had 2 tunes and had the same thing happen :/

[@JDMK1DD17]

good luck taylor and marco.. love the vids..learning alot from you guys.. do 6 speed jag like one take. gate the shifter too

[@TWIRKNOLOVE]

It's not your rings. I'd say check your fuel injectors for proper flow. An AFR gauge is the average of 4 cyl's and can mask what 1 or 2 are doing on their own. I'd also remove any sort of crank case breather that is being re-circ'd back into the intake manifold, even though there is a valve in between - just get rid of all of them and vent to atmosphere to ensure you're not pressurizing the crank case and/or getting oil into your combustion chambers (detonation).

[@Taylordrifts]

+TWIRKNOLOVE I sent the injectors off for testing to resolve that.

[@CowbellCustoms]

TWIRKNOLOVE I'm going to second that there's a injector issue somewhere there. I'd place some money on it. Also curious, what's fuel pressure at and if it's stable under load.

[@TWIRKNOLOVE]

Right - It'd be interesting if the guy re-building your injectors gets you some before and after spec's of flow and such. The fuel pressure is also a good point - I had a pump fail that still held pressure at the rail like normal and alright under load but logs showed it wasn't sufficient at times when drive-ability felt a bit off.

[@CowbellCustoms]

Thinking if fuel pump can't keep rail feed right and if the input is near center two cylinders could be starving 1,4 injectors of fuel. Either way I guess we will see from the results on the injectors

[@WAR-Motorsports]

Use a thicker head gasket to reduce the compression ratio to prevent pre-ignition. with that you will extend the life of the engine and use some colder spark plugs use the NGK V power racing part# (R5671A-7 stock#4091)or the (R5671A-8 stock#4554)

[@averagemtbr6390]

Can't wait to see the new project , Taylor is there any site you recommend to be updated with Florida events ?

[@7mGod7]

fel pro is not bad of a choice, it holds up really good for me. Im suprise that 2 times the headgasket didnt blow when my temp was sky high the only thing that sucks was that the pistons melted.

[@BoriHonda]

I'm always a fan of long videos on youtube overall but your longer daily vlogs are dope

[@rid3bikes]

get an exhaust gas temperature gauge, basically tells you the average cylinder temp unless you have 1 in each runner on your manifold, make sure it stays below 1400°f for forged pistons, stock cast pistons wont handle as much either

[@christineniper9695]

you're not gapping the rings for blowby, with NA engines the ring gap is fairly tight and forced induction causes more heat in the comustion chamber which makes the rings expand and they can't expand outwards because the cylinder wall is obviously in the way so the gap closes the more the ring expands from heat and it wants to expand more but has nowhere to go (once it has come in contact with itself) except to bow upward or downward into the ring lands causing them to crack. I hope that helps you understand what's going on a little better.

[@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf]

Look for any raises from old gasket material on block and sand until shiny, both head and block should look like they were just machined. Clean both surfaces with rags dampened in brake cleaner. All oil should be removed and surfaces will look dry. Then install clean studs, slide head gasket on, slide on Cylinder head and torque. No oil or water should touch your freshly cleaned block, head or gasket surfaces. Do not touch the surfaces with fingers either.

[@Carstuff111]

Not enough ring gap, when you get on boost, it creates more heat, which makes the ring gap close up, and if it closes up fully, it binds and *snap* it breaks pistons. If you have an NA engine that you add boost to, even "only 10 pounds", it is a big change, you need to open the gaps up a bit.

[@ZeroFoxGarage]

Taylor, did you verify timing? Like use a timing light and make sure the MS commanding timing is the same as actual? Because it's possible your commanding 12 but it actual could be 15+ (just using these figures, don't know what your actually running). I can look at the tune if you like, let me know!

[@willthacker5182]

seems like your rings are butting. maybe open them up. how far down are the lands cracked?

[@chrismiller7866]

Bro! I just got off of my job at O'reillys, I can tell that shirt from a mile away!

[@winningoO]

Check the fuel injectors, two could be kinda wonky. I'd go with injector dynamics in the same (or similar) size that you are currently running. Then, try a different cylinder head.

[@coleskate1234]

Screw the shorter videos! Go longer videos bro. Love your videos man. Definitely favorite KZbinr

[@descent8275]

Cracked ringland = ring gap to tight? it expands under heat (last cyl. runs hotter then other) so it curs up and breaks the ringland appart.. oh never mind . you startet talking about ringgap when you dropped the stuff^^

[@kxkid348]

pumped to see the new car! stay with the longer videos. if you have a free weekend when supercross is at daytona speed way and you would want to go and get a behind the scenes look at everything i could get you pit passes im a mechanic for the pro motocross and supercross circuit, just an idea if you would want to come check it out. lovin the videos man keep it up!

[@hyghhammer7009]

I've never turbo ed a car but have heard from alot of different people that u have to increase the ring gap when u turbo or add nitrous. Might try looking into it. Love your channel

[@LuuZilla]

Work at orielys now ?

[@colin_g]

Great job editing as always, you continue to produce quality videos that I happily watch from start to finish!

[@1pbwu1f1]

Seen this problem twice on two different 4g63. Tunes happened to be on the rich side and timing too advanced. Sparks to early and excess gas wash oil off the cylinder walls causing too much heat.

[@Kj-bg3iw]

Time for a KA and twin turbos. lol great video man.

[@RuinedSpec]

@taylor ray. Gap the rings. the ring land failing is likely due to the rings butting up... and as i was typing this you mentioned people commented about ring gaps. haha

[@FistFullofSilence]

Grind the new rings down a little bit. As the engine heats up under boost, the rings heat up and expand, eventually cracking the pistons if the gap between the ends of the rings are too tight.

[@thedawnofzodiac]

Is the new project car going to be a mustang?

[@alexw288]

Yes you need to gap the piston rings more for boost so when the combustion chamber heats up more than usually it doesn't brake the ring lans like that.

[@keatonsmith9603]

great video Taylor, but i enjoy the longer vidoes

[@kkirkpatrickify]

I had this same issue on my race car. It has nothing to do with boost. The ring gap is the issue here. With your piston and ring combo that your running, the rings need filed larger. The heat on the rings is causing more expansion. The top of the piston snapping up happens when the ring gap closes and butts together. Too much force on the don stroke rips if off.

[@bradgrant1899]

dude you may want to file down your piston rings like a couple millimetres, literally just heard ring gap so never mind haha if you can get your engine to run cooler with a thicker/better radiator it might help? easy fix if it's the fix. heat obviously is what makes the rings expand and close the gaps so running cooler may help. mad vid though Taylor!

[@cgoodm]

Did you have a coolant reroute? Cylinder 4 temps will average higher than the rest if you don't, and especially if you are adding boost and gonna run it on track.

[@-CLASSIFIED-]

as the rings heat up they expand and jam up causing the ring-land to pop , its pretty inevitable. your deffs gon have to gap them more. better safe then sorry as you've had some bad luck with it so far. in other news pretty pumped to see the new project :P