Soaking parts in WD-40 | Does it work?

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[@gonzoids7911]

We smoked wooden hammer handles in oil for the same reason it worked best with transmission fluid

[@martinkindl83]

I'm running x-maxx and that was first vehicle I tested wd40 on arms. They definitely began more flexible over time. The stock is very strong and can snap. With wd40 after some time they became more flexible. Definitely can recommend wd40 on plastic you want to flex little but more. Now I also did it on my kraton arms

[@rcbustanut2057]

Cool vid, thanks for sharing. And you're correct, you wouldn't want to do that on A-Arms. I just got rid of all RPM A-arms because the plastic is too soft & it bends with the pressure of the shocks. I was trying to figure out recently why my rear tires on my Rustler were in toe-out position. It turned out to be the RPM A-arms. Once I took them out & laid them on a flat surface, I could see that they had become twisted. Slapped on some integy aluminum ones & problem solved. Same happened with my kids bandit. RPM is great for some stuff, just not a-arms lol.

[@EastTactics]

Makes sense, thanks for sharing. What are your thoughts in regards to the new EXBarms. I assume they’re compatible with the V4. I wonder if whenever I do break in a arm I might switch over to the EXB‘s if they’re a bit tankier.

[@rcbustanut2057]

@@EastTactics i haven't tried those yet, I just recently replaced another lower front driver side arm on my Typhon 6S, 2nd time breaking that arm lol. Once again, tree wins again 🤦‍♂️😄 I swear, trees & poles are like RC car magnets lol, huge open field & it meets pole & tree!! I'm going to look into those arms, I need something a bit stronger, but for bashing, I prefer not to use aluminum. For my speed run guys aluminum is great however.

[@jumpmasterrc9940]

Had an awesome bash yesterday ....but ...on my way to pick up some RPM wing mounts now. Will be doing this today. Thanks for another great tactic video!!!!!

[@EastTactics]

Anytime brother, the WD-40 tactic does work pretty well. In addition I say one of the best ways to also protect your wing now is to get the wheelie bar. For whatever reason it just seems to absorb a lot of the impact Away from the wing mount. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKWpqI1_YtCem6s

[@tomtizumsrc963]

Wow thanks for the video ... I would have never known that boiling and soaking with WD-40 would make plastic that durable

[@yevsnyder5387]

The way to get the plastic to stay in shape is to bend it back straight and then put it in cold water to shock cool to stay in place

[@ValFPV]

Nice test. I'm going to try this as well :)

[@oldskoolrolla]

Thanks mate I’ll give it a try. Subbed. Cheers. 👍

[@RoadsideRC]

This really is interesting. I did a very similar test - but used Slash control arms. Did WD-40, boiling, and a cleaner to all see if it made a difference. Did this with stock plastic, RPM, and even aluminum arms! My test however, didn't show any advantage to boiling or any chemical additive. I would love to get your thoughts if you would check it out.

[@EastTactics]

Im actually running the test a 2nd time on the broken t-bone plastics, to see if the test hold true. Will be posting the results. Thanks for watching my vids.

[@ChrisHirner]

Never soaked em, on my xmaxx but i sprayed the heck out of the plastics everytime i ran it and i havent broke any plastic in 2 years

[@EastTactics]

Chris Hirner, I definitely am a firm believer that if you spray your plastics or use WD-40 to clean your plastics all the time then you’re in a sense adding the treatment over time. Just remember that WD-40 is not what you want to use to lube your tire bearings or differential bearings. Don’t get me wrong mine all still get contacted by WD 40 all the time however for a true bearing maintenance procedure you want to use something else Like a liquid oil designed for small bearings, or a grease design for small bearings.

[@bradleydenhartog7297]

I do this to my associated rcs

[@Flipside.rc8176]

I did notice that on the second peace that you broke it bent directly over the hole in the plastic, so not sure if that would be a advantage if you no what I mean ie more flex on that spot 🤔 good test though mate would like to see this again with 2 exact Same pieces. Keep up the good work 👍

[@EastTactics]

Steve Handford Fpv, looking back at that you’re right, I’ll definitely have to showcase the test again with similar parts. I will say though, that further inspection of the soaked plastic part definitely revealed a moister fracture Then the non-soaked part. Still, you make a good point

[@Flipside.rc8176]

East Tactics no worries mate happy bashing 😜🤙🤙🤙

[@jamesgeorge609]

I like the wd40 fix,,just have to worry a little with the pins sliding out sometimes...but they can be easily captured.....I was wondering,,you don’t hear much about it,,,,,is it necessary to lube the out drive cups to the axles,,,just wondering what would be the best lube to use.....can’t find any info on it....great stuff,,,you’ve helped out a lot,,,,sometimes it’s just logic.....thanks a million....

[@EastTactics]

Hey James, thx for the response. One thing I can tell you for sure is that you do not want to use WD-40 as a lubricant. It’s actually a misconception to a small degree that WD-40 is a lube. Don’t get me wrong though I still use WD-40 all over the place, As it’s great for cleaning, and preventing rust. But I don’t count on it as my lube. I use a valvoline black synthetic -based grease on the outside of my diffs. See vid External Diff grease kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXPcq5p6g5WaiqM I’ve replaced all my bearings with avid rubber sealed bearings, And if on occasion I feel like cleaning/regressing them I’ll remove the rubber seals and pack them with a marine grease good for bearings. Marine Grease is amazing at being water repellent. Quicksilver 8M0071838 High Performance Multi-Purpose Extreme NLGI 2 Marine Grease,... www.amazon.com/dp/B00BO8A6P6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_IYeyEbVFK3SD3 As far as greasing the outdrives themselves, where they meet the axle, i’m not 100% sure exactly what you’re referring to. other then keeping good bearings and and lackering up the outside of my diffs, that covers it.

[@carlosgabin5215]

i have never seen anyone actually leave them in a bag with wd40, just spray them but they never said for how long to leave it on? also wouldnt it make the plastics too soft where screws go in? thats why i wouldnt want to soak them, just spray in some areas as needed right? this was the best video tho because u actually tested the theory somewhat thanks bro!

[@EastTactics]

Glad I could help, yes it is true that simply spraying your plastics with the WD-40, or using WD-40 as a final cleaning component can lend to the concept of softening up your plastics a little bit just to help them be less brittle, especially in cold weather. However as you can probably guess I was looking for an over the top method to really speed up the process for the wing mount support plastics. I was irritated that my bad landings on the rear end were snapping the components. While this tactic does work and I still recommend it for that additional level of snap resistance, do you want to know what I found to actually be the best solution for protecting your wing mount? Check out this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKWpqI1_YtCem6s

[@biltong3470]

nice that the showed us with the test not just telling us. are you going to do your wing as well bro

[@EastTactics]

Its funny you ask. I didnt for this video, but ya, I for sure would toss that in the boiling water and think it could benefit from soaking in WD-40. I didnt do it this go around because I didnt want to boil off the decals (which I guess I could have just carefully removed) Also...due to the size of the wing itself I felt it would take a lot of WD-40 to really soak it. That said, you don't necessarily have to completely submerge the plastics in WD-40. So, all this had crossed my mind when I was installing my wing the other day. So... what I did instead, was I took that little bottle of excess WD-40 i and sprayed both the topside and bottom side of my wing, I didn't wipe it up either, I let it sit over night (almost with a puddle on top). the next day I did notice the wing soaked up some, or it evaporated. Either way, I might do this a few more times, simply do excessive wet treatments to my wing. Because ya, I hate when that thing snaps or cracks. Great question :)

[@mr.sinister1279]

Really don’t have to boil the parts jus spray it n leave it over nite n spray again the next day.. no boiling

[@johnsorensen5758]

Nice thanks for shareing👍

[@jamesgeorge609]

I use Lucas red and tacky,,,sticks real well,,,,,do you oil or grease the drive cups.....can’t find any info on it....thanks.....

[@EastTactics]

Greasing the outdrives themselves where the dog bones meet the cup, is that what you mean? I don’t ad lube there, I do hot that way wd40 tho to prevent rust. Other then keeping good bearings and and lackering up the outside of my diffs, that covers it. Did you see my longer reply on the first version of this question?

[@DoRC]

Wd40 isn't good for plastics. It contains petrolium distillates which essentially slowly melts some forms of plastic. It will make plastic softer in the short term which may or may not be good (soft plastic will deform more easily but not fracture as easily) but in the long term it will weaken them.

[@EastTactics]

That’s sort of the idea, or the effect that you’re looking for. That Softing provides a sort of protection from snapping. Especially in colder weather‘s. Not to mention WD-40 just makes for an extremely clean look. If someone actually had a set of a arms long enough for WD-40 to weaken it to a point of poor performance. I would be very surprised. But you are right it does contain petroleum distillate that slowly weakens the plastic. But the impact is extremely negligible and very very slow. In fact the benefits outweighs the negatives. At least from what I’ve found and researched.

[@DoRC]

@@EastTactics yeah it does seem to depend on the plastic. I found that modern plastics in good quality RCs just don't really need any sort of treatment. Maybe back in the day when they were poor quality and more brittle but these days modern plastics are incredibly durable. But to each his own that's what this hobby is all about :-)

[@bretzeletouffeur7401]

@@DoRC The RC butcher does not agree with you Do Rc, here is the proof: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bWGThmWXjraog5Y

[@RCCinematic]

@@bretzeletouffeur7401 that’s Kevin Talbot.

[@bretzeletouffeur7401]

@@RCCinematic Yeah, Kevin the butcher :-)

[@bretzeletouffeur7401]

Thank you for this great video: I am going to test this on my brand new Zd racing pirates3 truggy as I learned lately it is reputed all plastics break easy and you saved my night from nightmares. So if it works I should bend the chassis first because it is also reputed the chassis bend and I am afraid next video will be "how to cut your own chassis out of space quality metal". Did someone tested WD-40 on wltoy 144001 ?

[@EastTactics]

Hey, glad you enjoyed the video. That’s awesome that you’re planning to put the WD-40 to the test. I also polish up my vehicle after a deep scrubbing with WD-40, helps add that beautiful shine back to the parts as well as give it a mini treatment. You’ll have to let me know how your testing goes. As far as testing done on WLTOY 14001, not sure 🤔

[@boccacantiga5095]

Pretty far from a conclusive, scientific experiment. This subject really does deserve a video or even a series of it's own, with controlled variables, a large sample size and proper accurate testing.

[@EastTactics]

Awesome! Send me the link to a video when you’re done:)

[@alantaylor353]

Why did you put them in ice.? I thought the point was to open up the pores so the WD40 could soak in.? Cooling would just close them again surely.?

[@EastTactics]

You can completely skip the boiling process and just do the soaking and it will help provide less brittle/fragility to the plastics. The boiling process that I did was mostly to get the bend out. Which worked great for that

[@seanbryant345]

I think the point is to coat with wd-40 while it's hot for it to soak in....not cool it down first.

[@EastTactics]

But the soak method is like a 48 hour process. I’m sure you could drop it while it’s hot... but it’ll cool down in about five minutes. And the sitting and soaking for a prolonged period is the key.

[@seanbryant345]

@@EastTactics the pores of the plastic are bigger when its heated...so it absorbs easier .

[@EastTactics]

I guess you could always toss it straight from the boiling water into the bag of WD-40. That’s one thought. Although I think back in the day when I was researching this methodology that I heard something along the lines that boiling it and then doing a quick cool on it did some sort of purpose. But I could be wrong, honestly what you’re saying makes some sense too. All I do know is that after soaking it for 48 hours I did notice the treatment did it’s job. 💪💪

[@xoose]

@@EastTactics I think you did it correctly because the purpose of boiling the plastic is less likely to allow it to soak the WD40 quicker or better, but more likely to anneal the plastic first to get rid of any internal stresses in the plastic first. It will also probably allow some microfractures to re-attach. If microfractures have any chance at all to melt back together again with annealing, I would rather not have any WD40 soaked into the gaps where the plastic would have other re-attached itself. Water may get in the way anyway (especially with nylon) but it won't react or mix with the plastic like WD40 will. Plastic annealing can be a bit complicated because the annealing temperature and method varies depending on the type of plastic. ABS and PE plastics can be annealed at 100°C in water (i.e, boiling) but most other plastics need to be done at over 130°C which means boiling water won't do anything useful, and oil or air need to be used instead. I would have definitely cooled the plastic down first as you did to complete the annealing process in any case. As many people have observed, the WD40 soaks in regardless and you probably don't want to soften up the core too much. You'd probably want the plastic to act like a clay-tempered steel sword with a mix of strength/hardness in the middle and flexibility/softness on the edges to soak up the impacts. This is all semi-educated guesswork based on my limited knowledge of plastic and metal annealing, so please don't take anything I say as gospel. If there are some chemistry or materials experts out there, I'm quite happy to stand corrected because this is all a learning process to me as well.

[@aketza7395]

When I soaked my rc chassis, in the first jumo, it broke in half

[@EastTactics]

😬🤬

[@mehimrc1314]

This does seem to work those WD40 Pixies do something.

[@EastTactics]

Lol 🧚🧚‍♀️🧚‍♂️

[@EastTactics]

😝