Solder 54pin ram chip with hotair only

[@prashkd7684]

Sir you've restored my faith in hot air gun for smd resoldering. This is one of the cleanest jobs I've seen.

[@justaguy4real]

this dude sucked. I'm new and better than that

[@fordilavofgad]

Thank you for no music!

[@andreluizmoura4703]

😂😂😂😂😂

[@ItsKyleMang]

The solder gun was music to my ears.

[@latinocaliente2000]

Tittle of the song: My silent....😂🤣🎵🎶🎹🎺🎸🎤🎧

[@DysoniaMultiverseNews]

The grey paste is called solder paste and we are talking real solder paste not solder flux paste that is sometimes called solder paste. The difference is that real solder paste contains metallic powder in a flux compound while solder flux does not. Real solder paste should indicate the metallic compound such as silver, copper and other metals in their periodic label labels like Au, and others. The hot air gun is part of a 'reflow station'. granted, it is possible to use a hair dryer or heat gun but those have a much wider effect area due to the obviously bigger or wider 'nozzle'. In addition, if they are not temperature controlled, then you can face problems... especially heat guns without temperature control while a hair dryer would most likely not get as hot but might be hot enough for the solder paste to melt. Note: solder paste tends to melt at a little bit lower temperature than solder wire. This is why you don't need to get excessive with heat. Alternatives to using the hot air tool is to use a convection oven with temperature controls that you can set that would be under 300 degrees. Basically that is what the industrial equipment is known as a "reflow oven" which is basically a convection oven.Some are infrared or vapour phase ovens en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_oven Occassionally additional flux is used with solder paste. With reflow method, you don't need ultra steady hands just ensure you have solder connecting the pins of the components to the solder pads, via, etc. while assuring you correct any bridging of pins so that you don't create a short where you don't want it once you apply electricity to the circuit board. Lets keep in mind that we are looking as a really component with a high resolution camera zoomed into the component. Even what is a relatively stable hands can look like it is very shaky but lets remember that you are looking at something 10x10x10 (3d space) or 1000x magnification to the real scale so movements are exaggerated by 1000x. Try soldering with a camera in your way. It's not that simple.

[@vapenation7061]

rick balkins you're overthinking it. he did it well and it works. that's all that matters.

[@abdslil1054]

Hey Rick, can you share link to buy some of that real solder paste?? thanks

[@TheRojo387]

300 Fahrenheit, or Celsius?

[@TheGribbleNator]

Still trying to find who asked you

[@johndavid360]

Calm down rick

[@mickm7608]

I like the heatshrink on the alligator clips. Will copy immediately.

[@apexmike849]

+Mick M I was thinking that too! ;-)

[@danijel124]

me too ;)

[@All2Skitzd]

What was you using before? You can also put it on the moving parts of the helping hands and it helps hold the arms in place better

[@gericobaruela1180]

@HECTOR CONTRERAS l

[@osvaldocristo]

Wow! Thank you for post this movie. I made a lot of wire wrapping and electronic soldering for digital stuff up the middle of 1980s when (then rare) surface mounting boards were considered "unfixable"... I never more cared on that, so this video was a great surprise for me. Thank you to bring me up to XXI century!I

[@ramiretz]

Thank you for the nice comment :-)

[@lucysluckyday]

Love hot air soldering, it's so interesting to watch the paste melt into shiny metal. Reflow ovens are also fun when the temperature finally hits the reflow temp and you hear that instantaneous crackle sound at the instant of reflow.

[@ramiretz]

sorry for the late response... the white pen is solder flux... (Stanol minifluxer 33) i removed the solder bridge simply by adding solderflux and contact a short time with the soldertip... (not shown in the video) i did the video only for testing and showing my 1st experiences with solderpaste...... i see that many people like this kind of videos so i plan to do more in the future but on the other side those many negative comments makes me sad and demotivated to show and do more stuff... and again.. this was my 1st experience with solderpaste normaly i use hotair for desoldering and for soldering i use a solderiron with special soldertip thanks for watching and understanding :-)

[@D3lt4forc3]

Could you please upload a video showing how to solder a 2,3 amps fuse? Or just any fuse to a motherboard. Thanks!

[@ramiretz]

D3lt4forc3 wich type of fuse ?

[@D3lt4forc3]

ramiretz Myself i have problem soldering a fuse on a Ps2 motherboard. They look like this: www.tt-store.com/images//PS2/SMD%20Fuse%20for%20PS2%20(10%20pcs%20pack).JPG But any fuse in that size would be good. :D If you have time

[@ramiretz]

D3lt4forc3 aaah ok .... simply smd parts .... hmmmm i will see if i find some old smd part arround and i will do a video... vid with solder iron ? or with hotair ?

[@D3lt4forc3]

ramiretz Think you could do it? If you got time of course... Anyways thank you.

[@electronicshelpcare]

I wish you mentioned HOW to safely discharge the capacitors. Not everyone knows how to do that safely. Otherwise good stuff!

[@ramiretz]

oh yes you are right ! thank you for this hint...

[@Aslan1666]

You could teach that too just type it so we can learn usefull things

[@HandyFox333]

This comment section has me intrigued.

[@igorrizvic6008]

This is really a good job...it looks like its sometimes is better to do it with hot air than with soldering.

[@gamccoy]

That is a pretty stellar job!! I also liked the heat shrink on the alligator clips (gotta start doing that). For a while, I thought you might accidentally re-flow the decoupling caps but it all turned out flawless.

[@ERVE74]

Thank you so much. The best video for soldering. So many questions have been answered with elegant precision.

[@ramiretz]

thank you very much for those words :) very motivating

[@tariksaadaoui1967]

That is called precision Job . Well done man

[@ramiretz]

many many thanks for your nice comment :-) it was my very first try with hotair and solderpaste

[@ramiretz]

absolute best answers !!!! 1st i used it to practice !!!! 2nd this is a special IBM ram, wich u cant buy anymore 3rd i used the 852 reflow station ;) thank you !!

[@ramiretz]

in my older posts i answered this question a few time ! warming and cooling down the chips and look at the memtest when it fails..... then u know wich one is defective

[@DavidColglazier]

I seem to notice that most videos remove the existing solder from the pads on the boards. In my experience, I don't do this since I'm just going to add some back if needed and I think it is just an extra step that might ruin the PCB. I think it helps the chip lay flat and orient itself when initially soldering but I like to use a complete melt of the chip area so that the solder can "suck" the chip into position as it wets the leads.

[@TheoryofMastery]

I could never have the patience for that, but very good jobs and looks awesome seeing it step by step.

[@ramiretz]

have i ever said i am a professional ??? this was my first try with solder paste..... i removed the bridges as you can see in the end...

[@kunalpatel9962]

Sir last me apane konsa solution paste use kiya tha

[@digitART30]

for all who give negative feedback try to solder at least a 1206 or 805 smd resistor and come back to reply again, a easy hand shake magnified with the lens cam can be a huge movement, well ... so ramiretz its a good job mate , head up, leave your nails as you like because are a good tool and hope you are fine and make more vids

[@leonalexander26]

Why so many dislikes? Great work! Greetings from Germany.

[@MrAjmal2010]

Sometimes its accidentally pressed. Even I did it...

[@persona83]

@@MrAjmal2010 You know you can un-dislike an acidental disliked video, don't you?

[@MrAjmal2010]

@@persona83 Lol..I didnt know they have dislike button over there ???

[@persona83]

@@MrAjmal2010 If you click again in the thumbs down, the video will be un-disliked. Or, if you click the thumbs up button, your dislike will be convert to a like.

[@MrAjmal2010]

everyone knows that..some people dislikes your video. Maybe they accidentally did it

[@Reseiver]

What kind of sorcerry is this?!

[@SuperHypnoman]

Loved your video, im just starting on SMD soldering and desoldering and found this very helpful.. The project im working on uses normal and SMD components... :)

[@Ceyesse]

one of the most satisfying video ever

[@cellics]

Wow impressive work. Surprised to see the paste turning into shiny tin-lead.

[@timhofstetter5654]

When you wick off all the old solder, you're throwing away perfectly good solder that could have been used to tack your device down, greatly simplifying the job.

[@bebek1993]

Not really. The old solder is lead-free and is harder to work with, requires higher temperatures and is more brittle too. Leaded solder requires lower temperatures and you do the work quicker than you would with the lead-free. You just need a quality leaded solder wire and all is good.

[@TheAnu1998]

Can you please give the details of the tools, I really liked the tool that you used to lift and drop the chip.

[@ramiretz]

its an old AOYUE-939 vacuum tool -> kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHa5eqiFj5yJg7c

[@logandees4670]

6:45 you can see that connections on the module were left bridged.

[@anishchhetri5684]

Must wear the ESD glove while handling the PCBA

[@xga303]

What's that chip suction cup tool called that comes into play at 0:25s ?

[@PiotrK2022]

@ramiretz You could also show the final result, that it works...

[@ramiretz]

The result was uploaded here : kzbin.info/www/bejne/kGi0fnmFh9eBq9U

[@PiotrK2022]

@@ramiretz Oh, ok...

[@icomoon86]

How do to overheat or damage the DRAM? DRAM Spec indicate storage tempreture no more then 150 celsius!

[@ramiretz]

Still works today after so many many years now......

[@MeakerSE]

It's also a case of temperature tolerance, chips can take much higher temperatures when not operating.

[@annbigbig]

excuse me ... someone could explan what's the stuff in 02:05 , what is that ? the stuff that use to clean the pad ? I wanna buy it but I don't know what it is ....

[@ramiretz]

FLUX... its flux in a pen

[@n00b247]

Вася по ходу чуток подвыпивший, но талант не пропьешь.

[@Serhii-c1n]

На хирурга точно не потянит

[@ИльяКоротаев-б9я]

Главное знать, что резать и инструменты не оставлять?🤣👼

[@pow9606]

Would it be easier to add some low melt solder to the pins before using the hot air to desolder? Maybe some flux?

[@ramiretz]

quick chip it the easiest way but expensive... but with the hotair its not a problem, preheat the pcb and then it goes very easy :-)

[@peterdr.waldow101]

Great Video! I am looking for the suction cup tool. Any advice where I can order?

[@gordslater]

yes, liquid flux, in a "flux pen" for ease of application, so may look unfamiliar

[@АндрейАбрамов-з2г]

А как убрали залитые между собой контакты, по видео их там 3 пары я насчитал

[@vovik313]

1:20. оплеёткой убираются сопли между контактами.

[@АндрейАбрамов-з2г]

@@vovik313 это понятно как можно, как автор сделал данную операцию.

[@vovik313]

@@АндрейАбрамов-з2г я все таки предполагаю, что с помощью оплётки.

[@Dulgein]

@@vovik313 А я предполагаю что он сделал это не с помощью hot air *ONLY*

[@vovik313]

@@Dulgein ну тут уж кому как. У меня хорошо получается обычным паяльником излишки снимать.

[@Safkhan786]

You did well with that considering the amount of shaking going on with your hand

[@fctotal]

Order some component stencils and apply the solder paste using those. You'll not need to hold the hot air gun on the part so long and you'll reduce the risk of overheating the part. Take a look at the heat profile for the part pay close attention to the overall dwell time.

[@LJK957]

What is the name of white paste that use to soldering

[@annbigbig]

and why should I use that ? If I don't clean the pad with THAT STUFF after desolder, what will happen ?

[@ramiretz]

without you will get bad solder joints ....

[@justaguy4real]

what temp and airflow? no one ever says that...

[@neodiy]

What is the min melt point of the solder paste?

[@ramiretz]

depends on the chipset.... if the chipset support more ram yes.... but u have to find also the right RAM chips for the upgrade....

[@jacek-jan]

Dear Ramirez could you put in comment under your video some basic info like temperature, nozzle size and used agents and stuff. You don't need to put any brand (as long as not being payed)

[@ramiretz]

very good idea :-)

[@EeenaMeenaDeeka]

What kind of soldering lead used like a paste ??. Its awsome

[@summerkaymike]

Correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure i seen a soldering iron being used 🤷‍♂️

[@testetablet3810]

How to identificate the failure on chip using a multimeter?

[@ramiretz]

no put a boot CD with memtest in the computer and start the memtest... when the RAM Chip gets hot you can se it Fails on the memtest calculations, then take a ice spray and cool down every single chip as soon as you see the memtest calculations are getting ok again you found the defective chip ... takes a little time but its worth the effort especial on old ram clusters witch are not available anymore like the one shown in the video

[@testetablet3810]

Thanks! It helped me a lot.

[@dricklorenz9340]

hands like a surgeon. a surgeon going through withdrawal, that is.

[@Bandicoot803]

Is that heat shrink tube on your alligator clips?

[@pbsct6757]

do you worry about damage the pins on board when moving the desoldering wick? Also you never cut the used wick, so does that worry you for too much solder on the wick? Thanks

[@ramiretz]

No I don't worry.. when you are not use much temperature and be very gentle when moving the wick it's not harming the pins.... I don't cut the wick because it will left a tiny bit of solder on the pins this way and it's easyer to resolder then

[@User-DogFather02]

looks good. im going to 2M school in a few weeks so have a lot of that to look forward to.

[@etherlords88]

hello ramiretz... what did you use to clean up the remaining solders on board? i mean what's the type of that wire and is that a liquid flux pen? and what is the syringe type thing you applied at last?

[@danielgeno6624]

hi, 1) what temperature was used for this procedure? and 2) how much airflow force was used in the solderin station?

[@ramiretz]

380degree at the nozzle ...2/4 of the airflow

[@KrzysztofZaremba]

Can you provide settings for the tip and hit air gun?

[@antonioveloy9107]

What is that grey sludge called. I'd like to test it out.. I never worked with anything else than regular led free solder and flux.

[@ramiretz]

It's simple cheap smd solder paste... Give it a try

[@Brainboxen]

Laying paste across the pads is actually common practice. Check out some of the SMD soldering tutorials from Pace for some good info. With enough flux (but not too much) to lower the solder's surface tension, bridging is not an issue. Also, if you don't use enough flux the excess can be easily wicked away. As I'm sure was done in this case because the end result was clean.

[@jmicari]

Hello there, I have a hot hair gun but find that sometimes other components fly off with the air pressure. How do you do it without losing smd capacitors? Do you use very low air pressure? I need to practice.

[@ramiretz]

+jmicari simply use very very low airstream rate ... on smd parts use a very soft breeze

[@apexmike849]

+FREEDOM What they used to do was print a tiny dot of epoxy under the the component. Now, they use a stencil and a squeegee for the solder paste. In most cases, the SMD component will actually align itself to the pads, due to the forces of surface tension. The solder mask helps too.

[@MrJaryd2000]

WHY IS HE SHAKING SO MUCH!?

[@joseantoniorosseto5180]

because when he stick his finger in his ass, you talk I love you

[@doogulass]

It takes more force than you might guess to push the solder paste out of the syringe. My hand shakes like that if I do it by hand too. It's a lot easier if you get a dispenser that can hook up to an air compressor or use a stencil and a squeegee.

[@davonlabrew2165]

maybe carpal tunnel.. my hands get a little jittery

[@johns2975]

WHO CARES IF HE SHAKES,. he did a good job and thats the point.

[@nonayabiz1]

Because he had a vision where your sad need to leave such a pointless comment was laid bare and he was overcome with sadness and pity?

[@acadiel]

Very nice! What is that marker you used? What temperature C was the heat gun? What type of paste?

[@ramiretz]

The Marker is FLUX ! Stannol Mini Fluxer 33 - Temperature on nozzle is 380 - Paste is simple noname Solderpaste in a Syringe

[@cardinaldom574]

I liked your steady work. please, what is name of that thing u used to suck the RAM? I mean the RAM from the board?

[@snehashisadhikari4705]

what is the commercial name of the gel applied between chip & board?

[@nachopitt]

When reworking the PCB with the hot air station, I saw at least 3 solder bridges across pins. How did you remove them? Did you use a soldering iron? In that case, this video is incomplete.

[@worshipinstruments]

Hi, I want to replace a TSB41AB2 IE1394 Chipset using hot air technic, but I do not have the paste you apply using a syringe. Is the paste liquid conductive? Thanks you.

[@GTi]

Hi That thing called: Soldering Paste, they usually come inside a small metal container. You can buy them from any hardware stores or from the net!

[@FixerUK]

Good video but I would've preferred to see the complete job including how you sorted out the multiple bridges instead of jumping to the end.

[@dtb7354]

which is the temperature for used hot air? and which is the air-flow set?

[@DeltaEpsilon7787]

Um... To melt tin you need at least 250C. Where you took the solder?

[@aarorasilainen]

Well, solder isn't actually pure tin. I don't know what type of paste he is using, but i.e. 60/40 solder has 60% tin and 40% lead. That lowers its melting point.

[@ionutps]

Hi there can you please tell me what did you use exactly the tolls,paste etc.. the gun not need i have one too. thank you waiting for your reply

[@f.m.a5928]

What is safe air and temperature setting to desolder such chip

[@ramiretz]

it depends on your working speed...... for 380-400 Degree Celsius works best :-) dont be afraid because you hear 380-400 its the temperature the air exits from the nozzle... when it hits the IC its less high

[@meliodaseldragondelaira7747]

I liked your video but I'm curious about what material you soldered

[@ramiretz]

normal solderwick, stannol minifluxer 33 pen, and simple standard solderpaste hotair nozzle at 380degree i used way too much solderpaste, but ok it was my very first try ;)

[@sypher0101]

on a PCB with multiple RAM chips, how can you tell which one is faulty ?

[@soniyodotcom]

Very nice job friend , Actually i had never seen all these products you are using , all i knew was the standard soldering lead & the blower/soldering iron - can you tell me the products you used - in-case if i want to order it online from somewhere ! , thanks

[@forbesie2k]

Wow - Solderpaste & a hot air soldering iron!!! I now have the perfect way to upgrade my MacAir RAM. Thanks for this brilliant video Ramiretz! :D

[@NaitorStudios]

What's the name of the thing you use to grab the chip?

[@jovinovicente2891]

i know the description is using hot air only ......but isnt more easy doing it with flux paste?

[@SevenDeMagnus]

Hi. What temperature (celsius) do you reflow the RAM chips and how long each chip? Thank you.

[@ramiretz]

The chip itself should not go over 260... On then hot-air station I select 380 degree in the reflow nozzle... Preheat the board an chips up to 60 degree Celsius bevore you work with the reflow tool and it goes all very fast and easy then...

[@SevenDeMagnus]

Thanks. I set my hot-air station to 380 celsius and that'll heat the RAM IC chip to less than 260 celsius? How long should I be heating each chip and those small capacitors (20 second 40 seconds)? Also how high should the hot air tip be from the RAM chip? 5mm, 10mm? Thanks. I'll use a timer to be precise.

[@ramiretz]

@@SevenDeMagnus if you preheat the board you don't need to heat the capacitor more then 2-3 seconds to remove them... On the ram chips it takes up to 20 seconds.... Simply use a small tool to wiggle the IC on one side when you use the hotair... When you see the solder is melted lift it up gently wait a few seconds and do the same on the other side which will go much faster because the IC is already very hot.... Always be very very gently and don't try to force to lift the IC.. The solderpad on the PBC will come off with the IC if you are in a hurry and try to force it... Me personally I have the nozzle about 10mm away from the IC and set the airflow to a soft hotair breeze don't use way too much airflow or you will blow capacitors or other smallest parts of its place in worst case... For reflowing with solder paste also preheat the PCB and use the hotair als long as you need to get the paste smoothly into pure solder... A small hint, melt the paste evenly with the hotair until it separates the Flux and then go over from one edge to the other until it turns into pure solder Hope this helps you a lil bit Try it on some old PCB for training to get a good feeling feel temperature airflow and your work speed it all goes hand in hand.. Every person have different workspeed, find the right one for you it is not so hard 😊

[@SevenDeMagnus]

Thanks again. I tested the SODIMM RAM (one is 500MB on slot 1, which is perfect, on slot 2, it's 2GB) with Memtest, shows the damage is at the 896.3MB at the lowest error address, it also shows 1966.8 at the highest error address which (correct me if I'm wrong) mean is d 2GB one that has a damaged cell or cells. It's has 8 cells on each side (16 total), I wonder which cell or cells should I remove, so the operating system doesn't use those anymore? Or which cell or cells I should focus on heating (with the hot air set at 380 celsius)? Any guesses or methods to pinpoint which cell/s? I love to revive things, it's a great feeling, this could be a great practice as well.:-) By the way, I just got my very first solder paste, it looks like a syringe but it does not have that handle to push the paste out (did the seller forget to include it)? It doesn't seem you can pump the bottom to squeeze it out. How do you pump out a solder paste in this syringe like tube?

[@ramiretz]

@@SevenDeMagnus normaly you there should come the 2nd part with the solderpaste to use the syringe... i have mine also in a syringe... for the cells.... use memtest64 to stress the ram and then when it begin to fail while testing use ice spray to cool down every chip after other.... the chips mostly begin to fail when they get hot temperature... so try to cool down piece after pice and when memtest stops to fail you know which chip is dead......

[@enmalopez1585]

Ramiretz: dónde puedo obtener todo eso para poder practicar esa soldadura, y que clase de líquido usas para soldar, el cobre que absorbe el estaño y con que lo calientas para no dañar la parte electrónica. :-)

[@jasonsweet228]

So the solder paste actually finds its way to the pads and chip legs? I always thought the paste had potential to short contacts out. This looks eay, maybe you can set the chips and bake the board to set the chips?

[@sherri419]

Does anyone do this kind of work really cheap?, I have an Asus laptop where the connector to the on/off switch is totally destroyed and so I have no way to use the laptop, I am able to get it to go on by running a screw driver across the pins (it will start up and go into the bios screen as the HDD isn't attached) but I can't think of any way to use the laptop unless somebody can remove the old connector (it's tiny, it has about 8 pins soldered to the board) and solder a new connector on to the board (not sure where to buy a replacement connector from it connects a 6 pin flat (like a zip) cable from the main board to the on off/switch, there may be some way to bypass this switch but I'm not a electronics expert so I don't know, if it wasn't for the fact that if you hold the button down for a few seconds it shuts off I could simply short the connector and then it would go on as soon as I put the battery in that would be the simplest thing to do but bc of the hard shutdown when the button is held in for a few seconds that is impossible.

[@All2Skitzd]

I had a Dell D600 that was about the same way. It had a ribbon cable soldered to the board that had a lot of pins close together. I just figured out which two was needed to for the power switch then used my multimeter on continuity test to figure out which one was the switch and which one was the ground, then I put masking tape over the connector so it only had the one pin i needed to solder a wire to showing and I soldered a wire on to that then I soldered the other one to the easiest and safest place I could find for the ground side of it. If I was you I would first check eBay for a replacement motherboard because it might cheap enough to make it not worth the hassle to replace it. If not I would take it to a cell phone repair place and show them what you need.

[@kpbtechllc5800]

So you want quality work, fast work, and cheap work? Of course you want all 3, but you can't have all 3. The most you only ever get is 2 of the 3 - so pick wisely ;)

[@49684]

You don’t get cheap with quality work. Quality work = quality pricing. 😊

[@ramiretz]

why do you think that ??? i work over years with hotair soldering and none of the components ever died... important is the temperature on the pcb and component... 380degree hotair does not mean that the pcb or component get 380degree hot ! the solder melt at 180-200 degree

[@dcm9075]

手这么抖 '，固定的时候为什么不用胶布，再用烙铁焊就行了

[@muxa57]

Никогда не делайте так как на этом видео. 1) сопло фена выбрано неправильно. нужно ставить квадратное (или вообще сопло не использовать) и греть весь корпус сразу на малом потоке. такое сопло вызывает локальный перегрев и может вызвать трещины тонких проводников - плата может отказать через пару месяцев. 2) работа с фитилём - тут вообще трудно что то комментировать. нужен обильный флюс, а не этот дурацкий карандаш (карандаш в помойку немедленно). EFD 6-412 flux plus (лучше) или MCN-UV80 (по бедности). на жало нужно взять немного припоя, чтобы в начале работы смочить фитиль. двигаться надо сразу по всей длине и гораздо быстрее. после фитиля нужно как следует промывать - на фитиле бывает очень плохой флюс, который даёт черноту. 3) из шприца невозможно нанести пасту равномерно. нужно взять кусочек тонкого картона и вырезать из него трафарет - окошко по длине выводов и шириной чуть меньше 1мм. через трафарет нанести дорожку пасты шпателем, сделанным из той картонки же гораздо проще. толщина картонки ~0.5мм. получится хорошая равномерная дорожка. 4) держатель с крокодилами никуда не годный (деньги в помойку) - нужен держатель типа пружинной струбцины.

[@dsl400]

ok ok ... I know how to do that :D but how I can tell what chip is damaged ?

[@kafakoparan]

You can check with a Avometer(Multimeter) if you know how to use it.

[@PK-jg3vu]

@@kafakoparan does it do something like ohming to zero? With all those pins, what grouping is a pass through for the single segment or group of internal segments. Is it top left bottom right? Or is there like several groupings?

[@rothn2]

Ok but does the RAM still work?

[@ramiretz]

It still works today 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@ndawgtkd]

How does one determine which of the memory modules is faulty?

[@ramiretz]

380degree on the hotair nozzle..

[@viorelnegoita]

Did you desolder the chip and put the same chip back? Why? Did you test it to see if it works? Thanks

[@add1234542]

that paste is like magic when heat up lol

[@luiseg5198]

Hola, disculpa amigo, que camara de video utilizaste para el video? Gracias.

[@khalidmanzoor7460]

great job , can you tell me the name of tool wich is picking ic ,

[@ramiretz]

its a Aoyue 939 Vacuum Suction Pen

[@khalidmanzoor7460]

@@ramiretz thanks

[@kutay_ozkeskin]

what is that gray thing you soldier at end ?

[@pagong0x]

Soldier Paste - Lehim Akı olarak geçer.

[@CidiRome]

Can you detail this process of identifying the bad chip or point me to some documentation about it? Nice work, I have lots of bad memory sticks but have never tried to repair one from the others because of not being able to know witch one(s) is/are the bad chip(s) on it...

[@Bigman74066]

What alloy is the solder paste and what is the temperature setting on the hoy air gun?

[@ramiretz]

380 degree for my workings peed and the paste was a cheap standard smd solder paste

[@MrZackary62]

hello what is it like product in the syringe ? I 'm looking I can not find . nice work !

[@ramiretz]

zack superman solderpaste

[@MrZackary62]

thanks that's it's ok ? -> www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Wholesale-50g-Soldering-Repair-Solder-Paste-Cream-Welding-Seal-Grease-Tools-819752/1135481254.html?spm=2114.32010308.4.2.HSSQQV

[@arthursevumyan3971]

Как называется приспособление, которым от прицепил микросхему?

[@pamfilaki]

i am new to this but doesn the hot air damage the vomponets around the chip ? thank you

[@ramiretz]

no it doesnt... i mean you should only heat it up a short time and with correct temperature and never ever hold the airpencil still on one spot.. always rotate or move it.....

[@pamfilaki]

thanks

[@professionalservices1094]

Nice work...a little heavy on the paste but not bad. Should get a flat plastic knife to spread the paste more evenly. Works wonders. Also great for cleaning up those extra clumpy bits. Overall not bad tho. Those 0.8mm?

[@diesalweasel]

I tried this stuff out for the first time yesterday. it took me a few attempts to get it right. what I will say watch the video. as I used to much paste and ended up with bridges. what I will say use the thinist nozzle your paste will go down from the syringe. and you will be fine

[@ramiretz]

on the video it was also my first attempt .....try a few times and u know how much paste u need ;-)

[@DarkoAqua]

NIce vid! What is that "white pen" tool you used @1:10 and what brand of grey soldering paste you use? Thanks.