Solder Alloys Test - Lead and Lead Free Solder

[@Androkavo]

You choose Lead or Lead Free ?

[@PLCLink]

Lead

[@fourkings7897]

60/40 lead

[@TMS5100]

lead. lead free is garbage.

[@MrShaun1578]

Lead is far superior in my opinion lead free flows like crap

[@Grobbekee]

Depends on the device I'm fixing or building. If the board is lead free I use lead free, if not then not. I made a series of pcbs for a customer with lead free stuff, SN95Ag4Cu1. I must say it flowed like magic and made very strong joints. Shiny also. Really liked it. Disadvantage is the high price and desoldering without lifting pads is near impossible.

[@MrBubba256]

Oddly soothing to watch. It would have been nice to include some conclusions/impressions of the experience using these different materials and recommendations on when/where to use/not use each.

[@Androkavo]

Agree, added to description

[@arthurharrison1345]

Components with lead free plating have a more limited shelf life than components with traditional lead-alloy platings. Lead -free solder requires higher melting temperatures than lead-alloy solder, stressing components more. Lead free solder has a much greater tendency to grow tin "whiskers" that may cause short circuits between adjacent connections. The appearance of lead free solder connections are harder to inspect for defects,.

[@digitalghosts4599]

4:38 - accidentally soldered 2 at once :D Combo breaker!

[@icobos]

I was about to buy 96.5/Ag3/Cu0.5. Thanks for preventing me doing so!

[@saint_and_holy_unicorn]

I use 63/37 at 250-300 ºC. Low temp. requires less extra flux if not and doesn't burn it. The joints come out very shiny and there is less thermal stress applied to the components. I wouldn't say no to a 60/40. If wrong correct me please!

[@jarivuorinen3878]

60/40 typically melts at 190 celcius, 63/37 melts around 183 celcius. You are not wrong in choosing lower temperature one, but it is usually little bit more expensive, and otherwise the solders are very similar. It doesn't really matter much which one to use, as 200 degree preheat is enough to melt both completely. I use a method where I add some bismuth solder when I plan to wick solder off of old joint before starting the removal. This bismuth solder melts in under 140 celcius degrees and makes for very fluid liquid to wick up, but then I must be careful to remove it all before resoldering to that same spot. I'm in bad position myself as I'm a hobbyist and I live in EU country, and some smart people in EU decided to ban leaded solder from private use. I fortunately have some old stocks. But governments themselves in the EU are two faced entities because military and government agencies and medical still keep using leaded solder as if there's no tomorrow, and then tell to citizens that it's so bad, toxic, environmentally horrible, that no hobbyist can buy or use it. As if citizens were children or something, but oh well. Leaded is simply superior to unleaded simply because of its malleability. It doesn't crack, it can stretch over 35 percent typically before cracking. Most unleaded cracks after 20 percent stretch and low temperature makes it even more fragile. Unleaded is also horrible to solder in my opinion, it doesn't flow nor stick very good at all. I've noticed that it's very prone to something similar to burn through, as we call it in welding. In other words it doesn't form a cap over a hole easily, but sticks to the sides and leaves hole in the middle.

[@hannuback]

Nice video! As a guitar nerd I found this to be entertaining to watch. I haven't tried the lead-free solders, but I live in EU and it looks like that is where we are heading...

[@markphilpot4981]

Really, leaded solder that has an RMA flux core and is a pure eutectic or a pure eutectic with 2% silver, are the only solders which consistently yield solder joints that can handle the rigors of the high quality, high reliability expectancies of critical medical, military, aerospace and other highly specialized industries. Failure can cause death to humans and great losses to businesses! This is not a trifling matter!

[@pontuslundstrom5831]

Amazing close-up footage. I've been using 63/37 so far but have thought about going lead free (SAC305 doesn't look too bad, although it's pricey). I would also love to see a video about low-temperature solder alloys, such as Sn42Bi58, possibly in paste form?

[@RND-USA]

Thanks for this video! What kind of tip are you using specifically on the through holes? I’m having such a hard time soldering components to them. I think maybe I’m using the wrong tip though. Need to try the one you’re using specifically. Thanks again.

[@YamenNazer]

Amazing quality i'm really impressed

[@darkshadowsx5949]

I exclusively use lead-free. I've had no issues with it. just because it's not as shiny as leaded doesn't mean its inferior. No one is trying to use your solder joints as a mirror. those last few lead-free alloys do look like crap though. I don't believe I've used any solder that looked that bad. I just bought some "99Sn, 0.3Ag, Cu0.7, flux 2%" solder at and haven't used it yet. new soldering iron came with some unknown lead-free alloy solder I been using works well at 250c. I recently had to resolder a hot plate for a 3d printer and that old solder needed 350c and a bit of rubbing just to fkn melt... it was like trying to melt steel beams with jet fuel. close but needed the extra pressure of the weight above to deform.

[@AmigaWolf]

As you could see, is that led free solder have holes and such in it, he had to do it over and over till it finally was good, and that led free solder would stick to each other when he was soldering the chip to the board, and that you can a lower temperature to solder, that is better for your components and the electrical bill. And THAT is the reason that almost all the people who solder for there living and as a hobby use led solder and not led free solder.

[@عليعلي-ي9م2ق]

DarkShadowsX5 don't forgot the lead is good conductor for electric The solder maybe good

[@bredmond812]

This is really a great channel. Can you do a video on why you would solder at different temperatures?

[@djalienprime]

The most important thing that I learned from this video and my experience: marketologists will never beat chemistry and physics. Leaded only. If you're doing something "Fashiony-LeadFREEEEEE" for sale then use alloys with as more silver as its possible.

[@thanatosor]

but isn't Tin-Silver less shiny than Tin-Copper ?

[@wonder111000]

thank you for this video I didn't no which kind would be the best use but now I do

[@Ea-Nasir_Copper_Co]

As an aside four years later, you're more likely to find knockoffs marked as 60/40 than as 63/37. I'm not sure why that is.

[@ΑλέξανδροςΒλάχος-ο1σ]

Amazing video my friend! I love ALL your videos. Can you tell me what soldering iron/station you use? If you want of course.

[@rahmanat11]

Soldering iron comparison please

[@dianahernandez1375]

I am looking for one that looks shiny chrome not fade solder I have this company brand chipquik what you think and what the specs or ingredient have to choose to make looks shiny

[@KrotowX]

Lead free solder - how to make a lot of cold solderings at once. In fact usable only for automated factory soldering and will disintegrate or develop hard to notice shorts due to tin whiskers after few years. Definitely not for DIY folks and repairing jobs.

[@yeong126]

Never knew metal can grow the whiskers and even cause a short circuit. Thanks for the info.

[@BroversXproductions]

I would've thought 400 would've been too aggressive for 63/37, but that worked pretty well.

[@duroxkilo]

elevated heat is detrimental to the components, not the solder itself. the flux burns off faster at higher temperatures, but you still have more than enough time for the fluxes to do their job.

[@st7650]

Hello thanks for the great video. I work on a lot of tvs and was wondering sometime when replacing through hole components how do you tell what solder to use lead or lead free I have been using NTE Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 60/40 .031" 1 lb. Sn60/Pb40. It is a lead solder was trying to check the pcb to see if it would be listed didn’t see anything printed hard to tell by just looking at the solder

[@Mikyzo86]

Wow! What kind of lens did you use for such close capture?

[@monter4085]

Добрый день. Я Ваш подписчик из России. Мне очень нравятся ваши видео и как вы работаеть. Удачи вам. Спасибо за урок.

[@The_BaseerACTION]

which one better with lead or without lead

[@ab000d_wolf3]

what is better for copper pipers or metal joints?

[@P1Milly]

I only use lead free when salvaging parts bc I'm most likely going to toss the board anyways. Lead for projects.

[@Nazmi_PWM.C]

your videos are great. Thank you...

[@dusankoszeghy7570]

Thank You, very nice explanation video.

[@HeartOfGermany]

I use lead free. It is cheaper for me and works perfectly for SMD drag soldering, reflowing and of course regular through hole.

[@TheBinarydeity]

must be the brand. I have lead free solder from lowes that works perfectly at 350C.

[@connchri]

Yeah, I was also of the same impression, or perhaps to do with what you are used to. I don't understand the difficulty here. I wonder if it's something to do with people originally trained on Leaded switching to Lead-free, whereas I was trained straight on using Lead-free, so there's perhaps a slight difference in what I do. But I very rarely have the bridging issues on SOICs that they were having.

[@linkmasters535]

Yeah is 60/40 lead solder with rosin flux core is a great wire name is alphametals melting point is 374 •F

[@eugenome]

What lens and camera do you use for the close ups?

[@trigonscientificindonesia5337]

Nice Video.. How to make Lead Free (99.3/Cu0.7) Like shiny? Thanks before

[@b.a.d.psychofpv1274]

Many flux!

[@michaelbear8680]

seems simple and easy to do good video.

[@v12lol]

Hey what kind of flux did you use?

[@revealinglathe6465]

Been out of repair for a while. Thought I was crazy

[@DasAntiNaziBroetchen]

What about electric conductivity?

[@duroxkilo]

given the short distances and relative large contact area, the electrical resistance is not a factor. *theoretically, anything that contains silver has a lower electric resistance.

[@maze42d]

The upper view doesn't have any depth... Next time, I'd like to see at least slight angle 😉

[@maze42d]

Oh, later you took it angled... Thanks for awesome vid!

[@calebbrazeau4597]

wow amazing thanx a bunch.

[@dinoproductions6901]

Nothing is garbage here,lead solder and lead free solder are 2 different things for using in 2 different ways If quality is good,both solders are good. Cheap lead soldering wire is worst than high quality lead free solder

[@sinyuevan9539]

What do you use to record the video?

[@Androkavo]

Soldering video i used Andonstar ADSM201 and other by DSLR camera

[@sinyuevan9539]

What!!! I am not trying to spam here, but I am ADSM201's seller, I work for company Andonstar and to be honest, I sell ADSM201 for 2 years but I could never film such beautiful video. (well I am not an expert for filming or soldering) I was thinking you were using some other device which produced by our competitors. that's why I asked you what do you use to record. and now I am so proud of my company and our product! Thanks you dear. thanks for your video, you did really good job, you really know how to use it

[@Androkavo]

Don't doubt, it's true :) i.imgur.com/CsOt7nC.jpg

[@gn0st1c]

are you using John Hansknecht's polarizer films or something similar?

[@henriknelson3600]

How do you record the videos? Through USB or a HDMI capture card?

[@santhoshdhanabal6255]

Thanks to your explain..

[@bassome3000ify]

Thanks 👍

[@69iqtutorial]

Plz care that while working . Not to burn yor hand

[@DasAntiNaziBroetchen]

lmao

[@genaishivatov1737]

63/37 need temp. 230-250C

[@ЭлектроСафоново]

Прекрасное видео Спасибо !!

[@anothervoyager9654]

Lead free is a true nightmare fuel for reworkers.

[@jarivuorinen3878]

Yes, typically means that chip or component must be lifted and wick used to remove it. I've found that adding some lead free high bismuth percentage and lots of flux helps when removing component, it's easier to wick off then because it is very liquid. But it must be removed completely because bismuth becomes fragile when it solidifies. Leaded solder unfortunately isn't available to private people legally anymore in European Union, but for folks doing soldering for work or living outside EU, I suggest to use leaded to solder components back. Much easier to solder, and easier to remove, and resists cracking a lot better.

[@folxsgalaxy993]

What is this flux?

[@Androkavo]

Mechanic MCN-UV80

[@folxsgalaxy993]

Androkavo Thank You very much - looks like a cheap nad veery good gel flux - isn't it?

[@Androkavo]

I feel price is normal, not cheap, be careful with fake product

[@folxsgalaxy993]

Androkavo How to determine original?

[@Androkavo]

I not sure, maybe Article Number at bottom aluminum box case Also you should buy at store have best votes and price over 4$

[@Nedeles]

The music really make the video a lot worse

[@SevenDeMagnus]

New subscriber here.

[@jamescole3152]

For joining small wires I think lead free will work just fine.

[@Chillingworth]

You put so much work into these videos and then throw baby music on top of it...

[@genaishivatov1737]

60/40 lead

[@jdrs4214]

When one uses that lead-free garbage solder on their ICs, you’re basically sentencing them to die on their mounting pad. 1. Lead-Free solder requires a much higher temperature to melt it, risking damaging components you’re soldering 2. Notoriously difficult to wick up, when you need to remove components. 3. Is a more brittle, and breaks when stressed by heat, therefore creating the equivalent of a cold solder joint. 4. .....and last but not least; this garbage comes to life, becomes a gnome, and grows Tin Hairs (aka Tin Whiskers), a scientifically unknown phenomenon, that causes shorts, and has probably been wreaking mystery havoc on devices, since its inception. All in all; This stuff is just beyond terrible. The engineer who developed this poo deserves to get roughed up really, really good. It has caused me numerous headaches, and suffering, as I have damaged electronics when I was a younger inexperienced kid, trying to wick up this crap, because I didn’t know of this junk’s existence. I wouldn’t recommend using this trash, even on my worst enemy’s devices.

[@FairfaceCZ]

Well fuck, I cant buy leaded anymore because it got banned. RIP

[@bob4analog]

I'll take lead solder, it works so much better. I care less about health and the environment. ;-)

[@potatoking7722]

Isnt lead toxic? The fumes from soldering using lead solder lead permanent brain damage if the person isn't careful.

[@charleshines6155]

You know what be making lead free solder so awful? It is the zinc. If you know someone who casts his own bullets, ask them about zinc. If they don't immediately throw you out on your ear for mentioning zinc, they could tell you the problems it causes. It is the reason why lead free solder does not flow well and is ugly and brittle. If they made a lead free solder that also is 100% zinc free, lead free solder might not be so horrible. The only reason for lead free solder is to make it less toxic for the environment and I get that. What they fail to see is that everything is toxic anyhow and they are just creating inferior products. Some lead free solders do have zinc in them.

[@DazzlePirate]

lead 4 lyfe bby

[@TrasteIAm]

Nice video, shite music. :)

[@Old-Sole]

Ruined by the numb nuts music DIDNT WATCH

[@Leo-gt1bx]

Lead free sucks.

[@69iqtutorial]

Lead free solder sucks

[@secondfirstsecond]

Your soldering technique is so poor.

[@fklotaloi]

Hi, 63:37 or 60:40 usually gives mkre shiny soldering????

[@jjhong6188]

Leaded solder forms smooth, shiny joints compared to lead-free solder. And leaded solder with 2-3% silver content will produce even better result. Please look for solder with composition Sn62/Pb36/Ag02