60/40 versus unleaded solder

If you don't use the right solder when doing electrical or electronic work on your RC models or drones then you're unlikely to get satisfactory results. In this video I discuss why lead-based solder is generally preferred over lead-free solder and I also talk about the important factors associated with choosing the right stuff.
My soldering tutorial:
• Soldering basics for R...

[@keithnoneya]

Thanks for this great post. I work in aviation and am a certified solder technician working on aircraft and aircraft test sets for over 30 years. Lead free solder has been banned from aviation equipment due to its discovery of unreliability after several deadly aviation accidents. The reason is it cracks under vibration and temperature changes over time. Lead free solder is also one of the major causes of modern electronics ending up in the landfills. It is also the major cause of automotive electronic failures particularly in those MPG/KPG, compass and trip overhead displays. In fact most of those displays can be repaired just by re-soldering them with lead solder. If you fly RC aircraft STAY AWAY from this stuff, as it cracks under vibration and temperature changes over time. If you have the capability I would open and check you radio equipment twice a year particularly at the start of summer and the start of winter after the over all temperature changes. Make any repairs with lead solder, 60/40 or the 67/37 Eutectic solder. Thanks again for the post. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

[@ultrababa4723]

What ever the drawbacks are I still prefer lead free over leaded because expectancy of our life and quality of our health matters more than that of the solder used in electronics.

[@prringa6099]

@@ultrababa4723 If you wash your hands after soldering and don't do the obvious stupid stuff, there is no health risk.

[@TheKumra]

@@ultrababa4723 I know this is an old post, but there is no risk unless you plan on licking your fingers after soldering or eating your devices.... lead absorbency through skin is not a thing, unless it is an organic lead compound, which it is not.

[@kevinyamil2103]

As a matter of fact, I ended up here looking for solder differences. Currently studying to be avionics technician, so I find this comment quite interesting. Got my hands on soldering tools and wires to practice at home... and bought a crappy tin solder without knowing, "60/40"... but results were just like the crap solder in this video. I could NOT manage to prepare the wire tips, let alone solder things together: thing just slushes and goes solid when it touches the wire, and iiiffff you manage to solder it, its weak and quite crap.

[@keithnoneya]

​@@kevinyamil2103 Hey Kevin if you're serious about learning to solder Pace World Wide the maker of professional soldering equipment has some nice videos on it here: kzbin.info/door/T5e-XjqHPfA3_9wF3CgY1w I also have some lengthy soldering videos on repairing bad or corroded circuit boards here: kzbin.info/aero/PLVLXGvrQp0Os1DY1r_iUETKdLR2u-cAfY You'll have to skip through to the soldering videos you want to view. Best Wishes and Blessings in you learning. Keith Noneya

[@TommieDuhWeirdo]

the only reason why i use lead free is because i like to lick my pcb and lead is bad for my health

[@spoderman15]

fume extractor does the job

[@MrtinVarela]

+Spoder Man , no it doesn't.

[@spoderman15]

Martín Varela get a better fume extractor

[@MrtinVarela]

Spoder Man You have no idea what you're talking about. You don't breath trough your tongue.

[@spoderman15]

Martín Varela no shit

[@racecar789]

Lead free is harder to work with but I made a personal decision to up my game, not for myself, but for everyone else who will have to live with the soldered fixtures I create which will eventually turn into waste.

[@ThatHPIGUY]

This was one of the first things I found out when I started the hobby. My solder was terrible and I was blaming the iron. So I got a new iron and it was the same, so I blamed myself. Then I happened to try some solder that a well known UK Quadcopter shop was using and tadaaaa! Beautiful solder joints. This video will no doubt help many people. Don't forget the link to you old video mate. Have a good one.

[@eliasrenner555]

+ThatHPI GUY that's exactly the same way I discovered that lead free solder is crap.

[@benedictnothing]

+ThatHPI GUY Same story here, matey. Hated soldering for a long time and thought I just didn't have the knack for it. It put me right off getting anything past breadboard prototype stage. Got myself some nice and thin 60/40 and realised I actually CAN solder quite well. Now I actively look for excuses to solder stuff!

[@ROBOFORCERX2000]

+ThatHPI GUY Spot on HPI, I was exactly same:)

[@mysterieuzezaken]

+ThatHPI GUY Ill try this 60/40 solder asap. :-) Flying a 250 quad for a year now and with the build and repairs i was using the lead-free solder all the time.. Now i see the problem. hehehe Thanks bruce!

[@JohnFHendry]

+starlino Yes... I measured some leads I made... less resistance with the silver based unleaded solder so better flight times using small wires and connectors to save weight.

[@horipet]

Thanks Bruce, interesting. I've been soldering since 1964, and I now use lead-free, and I find that it's basically just a different technique to get a good joint. That 'tin spread' effect is a vaild point though. As to health issues, well you've been using leaded solder for decades so obviously it can't affect the brain as some have said. (Wait a minute though.......)

[@xxDrain]

Taking soldering courses right now, and most of the time I'm just waiting for the teacher to get to the stuff I've already learned on youtube. We're using 97% tin solder in the courses, btw, as well as old style irons that take forever to recover after losing heat. Great combo.

[@crownless236]

I'm kinda new to this which is like the best to use to last me years?

[@fsevilla1]

I work for a company that builds military grade equipment and I will tell you that lead free is more brittle and that's why we still use leaded we mostly use .032 and solder paste for reflow oven and we always have great quality solder joints also I do want to point out that lead free requires higher Temps and are more difficult to solder

[@JasperJanssen]

63/37 is eutectic. 60/40 is not quite.

[@JasonKaler]

and a better choice if you can get it.

[@JasperJanssen]

Well, it seems to have its pros and cons. Eutectic is -more- less odds of a cold joint, 60/40 is better joints when they're done right.

[@JasonKaler]

Jasper Janssen ahh, thanks. The one time I tried to get it, my supplier was out of stock so I have not tried it out myself.

[@informediatech-bruno5766]

@@JasonKaler you using lead free chinese solder use good one the chinese crap its a recicled mix of diferent materials recicled in illegal scrap yards in china thats why is so crapy coz is a mix of every thing the real solder leaf free cos like 30 euros for 200 grams try using the brand ELTO AND YOU SEE THE DIFERENCE

[@ronb6182]

63 37 replaced 60 40 in the telephone market place. Moisture was a problem in phone electronics. I did not make the change just the engineering department did. The ECO changed the ratio of solder.

[@FPVREVIEWS]

"i would rather save my model than save the planet" LOL nice one bruce! funny guy!

[@platin2148]

FPVREVIEWS probably because way are not able to save it anyway.

[@ronb6182]

Lead free solder causes tin whiskers and the military will not use lead free solder on any of their electronics. I won't use lead free in production where I work.

[@JohnFHendry]

Regarding the claim unleaded solder will not last as long as leaded solder I just found this in Navy files on solder: “The typical life of commercial electronic devices is three to seven years compared to decades for DoD systems,” said Lloyd Condra, Chairman of the Lead Free Electronics in Aerospace Project (LEAP). “In fact, we’re seeing device manufactures optimizing the design of microcircuits to wear out in that same timeframe.” (end of excerpt) Well looks like the claims of planned obsolescence are true and not just a few companies like Samsung getting caught.

[@prototype3a]

Ideal temp for lead free soldering is 700F (371C) and no hotter. Also, do NOT use a wet sponge to 'clean' your iron tip. Only use the metal 'brillo' pad type of cleaner. The thermal shock of the wet sponge when combined with lead free solder will ruin your tip very quickly. Also, the sponge does not adequately clean the tip.

[@alunroberts1439]

I wipe it on my cheep jeans one time I was in shorts an wiped on my leg I did say F%$^& B£$^ T£$^^ C^&$£%^ then B£$^$$ again almost 40 years of soldering I always grab the solder in my mouth pull it an solder hows much have I eaten

[@timbenham516]

It's the smoke from flux you have to worry about,it is toxic.A soldering iron can never get tin or lead hot enough to boil.when lead is boiled then it will give off toxic gases.I do prefer 60/40 over nonlead though

[@rallekralle11]

I use 99/1% tin/copper solder(atleast that's what it says on the spool), and it works fine with a normal non-copper tip, basically as well as leaded solder.

[@caramel7149]

is it stil conductive?

[@rallekralle11]

@@caramel7149 yes?

[@ryanjofre]

For what?? Please God tell me you don't use that for electronics and HIFI??

[@rallekralle11]

@@ryanjofre not hifi, but electronics i guess

[@ryanjofre]

@@rallekralle11 Stop using that. Get yourself some 63/37 Tin/lead Eutectic solder in whatever diameter you prefer .....Kester brand is the best.....made in USA and very affordable. Donate that crap you have to a school that teaches kids how to solder. You'll thank me.

[@deepmystic5850]

FFS After 2 years messing with my soldering iron I purchased new, I was convinced I suck at soldering I now know why I am experiencing issues! This video just saved me some grey hairs Thank you mate

[@CalvinCai_Frisbee]

Tin based is great if you have the right flux

[@johnmoyle4195]

Much love from Australia. You kiwis are our best mates in the world and if anyone wants a go at you, they’ll have to get through us first.

[@Lagggerengineering]

Have you tried adding a bit of flux? Might help the lead free solder.

[@ronplucksstrings7112]

I believe he was using flux core lead-free (s**t) solder, besides adding flux does not address the issue which is metallurgical! Lead-free solder SUCKS!

[@michaelinglis8516]

It would help certainly even if your using rosin cored solder anyways. You don't avoid using liquid rosin flux just cause your wire has rosin flux in it. Despite what this video says lead free with a decent liquid flux used on the larger joints will yield perfectly satisfactory results that will be fine for any hobbyist. Yes leaded 60/40 or 63/37 melts easier but people who say less free is useless either don't know how to solder very well, are using cheap crap solder wire, or don't account for the higher melting point. If you can get leaded and it's for an application your kids won't be playing with have at it. But if your working on a small repair and you just wanna grab some solder locally an all they have is less free that's certainly usable. Just remember to use an extra 100 degrees or so, flux larger joints or joints that you don't want getting to hot ( the flux will reduce the amount of time it takes to solder the joint by cleaning the surfaces and heating the solder more consistently so you can avoid damaging small components not to mention that extra flux will result in better solder flow in your joint) and if you do those things you'll be fine.

[@michaelinglis8516]

@@ronplucksstrings7112 Yes that's exactly what adding flux does it address the efficiency of melting and adhesion of your joint. Extra flux is certainly meant to be used with rosin core smh. Do you think that just cause it's rosin core you don't have to use flux with it on some joints Lol? Smh, you obviously have no clue what your talking about and weren't qualified to answer the question. Which wasn't a stupid question at all. Sadly you decided to give a really stupid answer even though the OP has a better understanding than you do of how soldering works.

[@ronb6182]

Extra heat will help but extra Flux wont. Maybe there is a brand of lead free solder is better than other brands but regardless of what brand won't stop the tin whiskers that unleaded solder causes.

[@ronb6182]

Save the earth by recycling electronics, you should not need to buy a power adapter for each new electronics you buy. Standardization is best for all electronics manufactured. Keyboards and mice should work on all computers that have usb connections. Also memory cards should also be transferable from one computer to another. Just these two features would save money and reduce waste.

[@GlennLopez]

Most experienced people who can actually solder or those that have taken some form of IPC-A-610 course would disagree with this video. That’s not to say leaded solder is bad. Its actually pretty good if you’re new to soldering. Its easier to use than ROHS solder. I always recommend new people to use leaded solder if they haven’t touched a soldering iron before.

[@Najvalsa]

I guess you can use the hippie solder for making some sculptures or something.

[@edabean007]

i use it when i need to hot air gun reflow. but yeah stick to the 60/40 for everything else.

[@xjyrki]

+SlavjanA Tin is good stuff for bullet casting, too. Tin is added to the lead alloy, because is improves casting properties. Hippies don't cast bullets.

[@RTmadnesstoo]

I only use lead free solder on copper water supply plumbing. Then I use Mapps gas to get enough heat. Adding 1lb of 60/40 solder to 10lb of wheel weights makes a perfect bullet casting alloy. Just the correct amount of lead, tin and antimony.

[@DominoSixO]

05:00 That kinda pissed me off, when you solder you need to heat up the base, don't expect to solder on a cold PCB ofc the soldering wire will get "pasty" or solidify if you don't give it the necessary temperature, as you can see from the vid. you/he get's the soldering iron away fast, the PCB is COLD and the hot liquid transfers the heat fast to the copper PCB. Use the right temperature, even if you don't have a high heat soldering iron hold it on the PCB to heat up then solder, like that you always will have a PERFECT soldering with any soldering wire.

[@thegreatmechanizedape8262]

Domino60 how do you know when your are damaging the board tho? what do you look for?

[@hashiramasenju6058]

The Great Mechanized Ape, get the right tip size (so that it doesnt heat the board but it does heat the base/lead) and one way to know if the board is damaged is if it turns black or starts to smell!

[@thegreatmechanizedape8262]

J3tfuel thanks.

[@robertheuer7670]

i just started working at a solder manufacturer...i love it!! today i ran the draw machine and was making .125 solder wire this stuff had tin copper silver and lead in it...I LEARNED TO SOLDER A SOLDER WIRE BACK TOGETHER lol ots not hard bit the thought never crossed my mind!!

[@MarcStollmeyer]

Lead isn't an eviromental issue, its a health issue. Lead is incredibly dangerous if consumed and it never leaves your body, so always wash your hands thoroughly directly after soldering to prevent any lead from transferring into your body.

[@xjet]

+Marc Stollmeyer It's still an environmental issue though -- it affects every living organism that ingests it. This is why they've banned lead shot for duck shooting in many countries. Like most heavy metals, it can accumulate in the food chain but will most affect those at the top of the chain (us).

[@tankbuddy9666]

Not to be an ass, but if you do a quick google search you will find that lead solder is pretty darn safe (in terms of direct affects on human health). There is no lead in the smoke and you won't ingest any if you wash your hands. Also, don't eat it.

[@thexpto51]

+Tank Buddy But the smoke from the solder doesn't contain lead but it's bad for your lungs.

[@tankbuddy9666]

+theXpto51 Thanks for pointing that out. Fumes from the flux are toxic, but the risk of inhalation can be mitigated with ventilation pretty easily.

[@JohnFHendry]

+Marc Stollmeyer I grew up washing my hands in leaded gas, breathing car fumes from leaded gas, and using leaded paint, etc like a lot of other people did. But I never tested positive for too much lead so I think filling up the land fills with lead solder electronics that gets into the water is the main issue and that is a real concern to prevent. But lets face it... we are experimental and Nature is not done with us and it will take hundreds of years to really see the damage/changes we have caused to our own biology.

[@vahagnmelikyan2906]

I was suffering trying to understand why my soldering iron stopped melting the solder, sometimes it would sometimes wouldn't. I had one more solder wire with me from different product. Applied the other one and it took flawlessly. So at least I know the issue was a low quality solder wire. Thanks for the video ,you confirmed my issue.

[@michaelhawthorne8696]

I use Pb free solder at work for some customers but other customers I use 1%Cu which is harder to use and needs a hotter iron too. Bring back 60/40, it works so well.

[@brokedown547]

I've been using the cheap lead free solder you get from Harbor Freight for a while. It does take a little longer to melt and a little longer to solidify, but as long as you properly heat your surfaces the joints are quite strong. if i were doing more delicate work, I'd probably use thinner 60/40 solder.

[@scottmccurley2743]

Bruce, I am really excited to see your tutorial on Ham radio license. When do you think it will be put out on video?

[@xjet]

+Scott Mccurley I've been collecting a whole lot of material to create this series -- and I'm interviewing a couple of "old-school" ham radio operators as well so it'll be sometime in the New Year.

[@montygore]

Hi. I just found your videos. I think your antenna videos were the best I have seen. I am an extra class amatuer in the us. I have also been a tech for 45 years. Your explaination was fantastic. I agree with you. For years all we had was 60-40 for our work. All of a sudden we get that lead free crap came out. I bought one roll and trashed it. Keep up the great videos and Thanks W5DN.

[@w4rm0ng0l2]

"but it's cr4p" Made my laugh. Love it brother

[@sivalley]

Funny thing about lead free solder; it was phased into the only solder for production use via the RoHS (Reduction of Hazardous Substances) Act (2006) in the EU alongside the WEEE (Waste Electrical and Electronic Eqipment) Directive (2002) in a vain attempt to reduce the quantities of heavy metals in landfills. Ironically, as we have all seen since then, these two acts combined have lead to more consumer electronic waste in the last 10 years than the previous 50. I mean, who can forget infamous problems caused by lead free solder like the RRoD, Y(A)LoD, countless TV failures, laptops that just die, etc? If anything the attempt at being green has horribly backfired and created a bigger problem everyone (politicians) is looking the other way and pretending it's not happening. There is very good reason the entire aerospace and automotive industries are not using lead free solder in their electronic manufacturing processes. Blah, blah blah blahhhh. . . . *is probably gagged, blindfolded and carted away by some Greenpeace nut jobs*

[@dancoulson6579]

The increase of electronics equipment going to landfill as a result of lead free solder connection issues will greatly outnumber the benefits of it being free from lead. A more appropriate action would be to continue using leaded solder, but *not* ingest it or any electronics equipment made with it. For example, if I buy a TV made with leaded solder on the PCBs, I wouldn't smash it to bits, and try eating it. This way, I get the quality of connection given only by leaded solder, but none of the health associated drawbacks that come with ingesting lead. To be honest, I don't know why anyone else hadn't thought of doing this back in the 80s and 90s before leaded solder became such a big health concern...

[@megaraitei]

Oh my. The first solder I ever bought was pasty I just assumed my iron was not getting hot enuf and learnt to work with that. Today I realised mine was the lead free type. It was also very difficult to take off the board via a wick. 😱

[@shayanchaudhary8613]

I lolled hard when he said "i'd rather save the model then save the planet!" :P

[@Jeff-Russ]

The thing that concerns me most about working with lead solder is actually DE-soldering, especially with a pump. Those tiny, barely visible bits of removed solder get everywhere; all over my desk, under my fingernails, on the floor, on my arms, etc. I'm sure I even had lead dust in my bed at times. Over long period time that can be ingested and could build up to become harmful. As someone who does almost as much desoldering as soldering and has cats, I'm moving on to lead free. I'll still use 60/40 for some things but won't whenever I can avoid it.

[@garycragg1]

I have built a handful of quads and am quite good at soldering now.. thankfully I have been using the correct solder. I use 2mm but after watching this vid I will be purchasing some thinner solder. Very useful information. Thanks Bruce.

[@SteveH-TN]

Thanks for sharing this video & information. I haven’t soldered for years. But an renewing my interest in designing & prototype projects. I a few days ago I decided to order Maiyum 63-37 Tin-Lead Rosin core soldering wire Just to explore the eutecric aspects discussed in several soldering tutorials including your own. Hoping to learn something new.

[@mendozairis]

I knew it! I thought my tip was bad or my iron was not hot enough. Turns out I got lead-free solder wire as I used to buy it per meter from a repair shop. Terribly brittle and flaky.

[@ChrisG3253032]

Thanks for the heads-up. I saw the Lead Free solder in store (Jaycar in Dunedin NZ) when I was buying my usual Duratech 60/40, aside from being way dearer I thought to myself "yeah, nah". The idea of "lead free" alone was enough to deter me.

[@MuinckadelicFPV1]

A friend forwarded me this video because i was having solderingen issues. Thanks for opening my eyes

[@BudgetFPVRC]

Very nice video, it's about time I learn the real difference between the different types of solder. Thank you!

[@ARCSTREAMS]

"lead is good for you,it's good for your joints" sounds like a health add

[@henrygu6149]

Leaded process are mature. It is good for your joint, but for sure not good for yourself.

[@ARCSTREAMS]

huh?

[@ironspider1960]

100% behind you on the solder. I have been in electronics for 40 years now and hate using lead free solder.

[@detaildemon2904]

I just found out I had been using lead free solder and ive had no troubles with it. Might switch to 60/40

[@Anpanator]

I've been using 99.3Sn0.7Cu, which is also eutectic and I have had none of your problems so far. Granted, it needs higher temperature, but that's about it.

[@richiebarrass3469]

Got to agree, lead free solder is absolute rubbish, bought a roll of what stated on the label as 63/37, tried to use it and quickly found out that it had no lead in at all, had to turn the solder station up way higher than normal and even then it never flowed properly, left me with poor joints and a horrible dull finish. Went on to buy a new roll of 60/40 solder from a UK electronics supplier and immediately saw a huge improvement plus I could solder perfectly at 320 degrees :)

[@padmad3k63]

It seems like more web stores in Europe are trying to get rid of 60/40. Majority of them supply more lead free crap than 60/40.

[@carloscaro5882]

hugging a tree won't feel the same way anymore after this video.

[@Rubbaduckie1975]

Thanks for the Video Bruce! I solder for a living and we use mostly 60/40 lead solder, we have a small area where we have to use lead free, and everyone says tge same that lead free is horrible to work with, you need extremely hi quality hi temperature irons to do the job. Currently taking a recert course at work and tou guessed it they've changed to lead free for the practical🤦‍♀️ its bloody horrible for tiny little surface mounts I can tell you, nevermind the 100 pin components. It barely just copes with through pin and if you get a bridge that's damn near impossible to get rid of. Leaded solder all the way for me, we where gloves and have extraction units so it's safe for us. 🙂

[@yetanotherarc]

Bruce, your comparing quality solder to shitty chinese solder, this is part of my full time job and lead free solder is mandatory and the good quality stiff works exactly the same just at 410deg c

[@atomicskull6405]

+Matthew Warner It doesn't grow tin whiskers any less though. Lead is the only thing known to inhibit tin whisker and tin pest. Mixing different solder formulations can yield unreliable solder joint as well and it can make repairs a nightmare because it can be impossible to tell exactly what solder formula was used just by looking at it. For example if you mix a solder that contains copper with one that doesn't voids can develop inside the solder joint over time.

[@michaelhillpot]

+Atomicskull I am a full time electronics tech as well and prefer leaded, but the lead free works just fine if you know how to use it. As far as the whiskers, I have never seen it in anything I work on. Our boards come from a board house that uses lead free just like almost every consumer manufacturer, if whiskers were such a big problem then all of your tvs, computers, phones, and everything else would be shorting and dying. Take one apart and find whiskers to show me.

[@Dr.Stein99]

How exactly are most of my components and any plastics expected to withstand 410 c ? I'm not soldering 4 gauge wires and car battery terminals. Been soldering for years - now this new POOP solder you practically need to push it through a 3d print head so it can take a dump on your electronics.

[@thegreatmechanizedape8262]

michael hillpot tin whiskers crashed a space shuttle I'm pretty sure.

[@DaveOfAllMasterOfNone]

+Matthew Warner I would love some advice. What is a good brand of lead free solder?

[@stuartkaufman6131]

What kind of solder is best to solder a copper wire to a thick (5mm) silver rod?

[@realflow100]

I got the 63 37 leaded solder Took a while of searching on amazon to get it and it works really good. Super clean

[@TheRetroBristolian]

Man after my own heart here! I do love 60/40 solder!

[@rantaeskolaa]

Biggest proplem I found with leadfree solder was that if you use the same tip as non leadfree, it will add bit of lead to the soldering mixture which causes exactly what you show in the video (you need to have atleast 25% or 0.00000% lead to make good solder). I think one big Japanese electronics company had issues with the tin whiskers when they changed to leadfree and didn't change their manufacturing equipment, because of the small lead contamination. There are good leadfree solders available (SnAgCu), but need to find one that you like to use. Also since melting temperature is much higher, which makes the soldering much harder. BiSn (57%,43%) has pretty low melting temperature at 140C and makes it easier to use, while having only 1 degree of difference in liquid and solid. But it has problems with the strength. Btw, did you even change the temperature between the solders? Before all the hate, I use leaded solder for my own projects, but at work we pretty much need to use leadfree and I'm not having issues with it.

[@YensR]

I use Mercury 703.450 lead-free solder and am quite happy with it, mainly use it for cables and so. It has 99.3% Tin and 0.7% Copper with 2.2% flux. It might have been worth explaining why lead in solder is not actually that dangerous. As I understand, boiling point of lead is so high that you cannot reach it with a measly soldering iron. So the vapour (while not healthy) that happens during soldering does not actually contain lead. Is that the correct explanation?

[@xjet]

+YensR Yes, you are correct about soldering at normal temperatures not producing lead vapor. The environmental/health impact seems to come mainly from the effects of e-waste where landfills are full of old electronic junk and the solder contained within.

[@atomicskull6405]

+YensR Funnybthin though is that the fluxes used with lead free solder are actually more toxic than the rosin flux used for 60/40. You really shouldn;t solder with lead free indoors without a fume hood.

[@YensR]

+Atomicskull That sounds scary. Do you have a source for that? I found the report from the Danish Toxicology Centre, but it is not very specific regarding the dangers of the fluxes (page 49) or seem to indicate that flux for lead-free solder might be better (page 66): www.ems007.com/PDFs/Survey_on_Lead_free_solder_systems1.pdf

[@YensR]

***** Yes, I understand that. As you can see above in my reply, I have done some research. The question was: Which flux vapour is more dangerous: The flux in leaded or the flux in unleaded solder.

[@YensR]

Yes, definitely - safety first!

[@thermosinthesis]

I got some really good lead rosin core solder from Singapore 5 years ago and the same spool is still going strong.

[@jdrs4214]

Don’t take my word for it, but according to what HereSay has to say, there is a phenomenon in which lead-free solder has a tendency to grow tin hairs, and short components on your electronics, while you sleep at night. (It basically comes to life) Now I’m not sure if this is true, but I grew up soldering with leaded solder, and I still favor it, over its ease if use, and ability to wick it with braids when removing components. Lead-free has a higher melting point, and isn’t really any easier to wick up. I never really liked that lead-free spool, for that reason alone.

[@gautelundal9940]

Great and informative video, already using 60/40 but the heat melting ratio was informative! :)

[@Ryukachoo]

Remember the Red Ring of Death? that was a direct result of the EPA mandate that electronics be lead-free, so microsoft had to use lead free solder from then on. the 360 got very, very hot during its operation. after many heat cycles of heating up and cooling down, the garbage lead-free solder would start the crack microscopically and cause intermittent shorts. eventually the graphics processor would become so poorly connected it would give up and throw the three red lights error code. the way to fix it? melt off the processor and "re-flow" all the solder, removing the lead free stuff and replacing it with the 60/40 goodness. Never breaks again after that.

[@nubowner1]

+Ryukachoo I'm not aware of such a mandate for the US. They likely used lead-free solder so that they could sell the Xboxes to people in the EU.

[@Ryukachoo]

nubowner1 look up ROHS

[@nubowner1]

RoHS was adopted by the EU, not the US. It does however have global impact as most manufacturers will make their products RoHS compliant to sell their products in the EU.

[@shaneintegra]

i wrapped my xbox in a towel while being on and let it sit like that for a while. it reflowed the solder for me and worked

[@Arch1301]

This video opened my eyes. I agree with the author. No need to explain why lead-free is suck. Notice that fact old computers and another tech stuff still working our days because old school soldering with lead! today first problem of all tech is BAD CONNECTION )) because Lead free soldering poor conductive and after a few years, unconnected My english is sucks like lead free soldering but you got my point lol

[@snaprollinpitts]

and I thought I knew all there was to soldering, thanks Bruce

[@Jack2Japan]

I really appreciate your educational videos. I always learn something useful even if I'm familiar with the topic.

[@orblivious1]

haha. "I'd rather save the model than save the planet" one of my favorite lines i've heard you say....and i've heard a bunch of funny ones. the other was about using the hot air from the mother in law :D

[@rich1051414]

I have a friend that 'has always used lead free'. I wrapped my leaded solder on their lead free solder reel, and they raved for a week about the stuff. I never told them and they is still trying to find that 'good stuff'.

[@rich1051414]

+Christine Stone Haha... oops. Awkward...

[@nameismetatoo4591]

Lead-free is best used in factories with BGA machines, where the conditions can be perfectly tuned for tin solder. It has its uses, but none of those include hobbyist projects.

[@doceigen]

The BEST solder for both electrical and structural uses, available on the easy to get consumer market is: Radio Shack 64-013 E It is a Silver Bearing Solder with a Rosin Core. I use the .022" diameter all the time, but have both fine and heavier versions too. It is FAR stronger than the lead solder you like, but flows very nicely with a medium heat iron. Try it, you'll like it.

[@HarshKumar-ml5ky]

Lead-free solder is always a better choice if you look from the health perspective.

[@hollytimlick9470]

Well I will tell you what, since you think that lead free solder is better, then you can by my man another brand new digital meter. He just threw out his fking meter because it was malfunctioning, and of all things its only 2 months old. Fuk lead free solder! 👿

[@ericschulze5641]

Nonsense

[@b94cast]

Another thing to keep in mind, is to re-tin leads that are pre-tinned - most of that is the same ROHS junk. Re-tinning these with good solder will help a ton for a good quality joint.

[@ARCSTREAMS]

umm if lead & tin eat away at copper then how come they are still used to solder copper wires ?

[@samuelpuhretmayr5036]

i am sure the china solder you hace is not lead free it is propabaly a lot more lead then tin behaves simular to lead free have you tested the lead content?

[@rabinator33]

You should put the whole roll into a pot and make a brick of solder. I have no idea what you could use it for (maybe a paperweight) but I think it would be cool to watch it all melt. Also, what exactly is flux and why does it make solder flow so well?

[@lemongaming5750]

+rabinator33 Maybe add something on solder paste if you want to do a vid on it

[@chrissim2011]

+Lemon Gaming cleans the surface.prep for the solder to flow nicely on the wire

[@xjet]

+rabinator33 Flux inhibits (and sometimes reverses) the oxidation of the solder. The oxide usually forms on the surface of molten solder and creates a kind of skin that encapsulates the liquid metal and stops it from flowing smoothly. Flux can also stop oxidation of the metals your actually soldering -- thus improving the alloying between the solder and the copper (or other metals) you're joining.

[@leifchurchill]

I've actually done this. it creates a nice brick. it's what I do with unleaded solder.

[@BladeScraper]

+leif churchill Same. I find it quite fun :P

[@ameliabuns4058]

I don't have these issues with sa305 and nice flux. also I find that a good quality soldering iron is necessary with lead-free, you need higher temp and better thermal transfer.

[@hughbatchelor8599]

Dear Bruce. Thanks for informative vid. It explains why I always had stodgy solder and wouldn't flow!! I was on the point of buying a new soldering iron thinking it wasn't getting to the right temperature. What is the best way to sean the tip of my soldering iron? Cheers.

[@clintonbeckway4171]

I have used them both when i use to do small electronic projects at college, it takes some time to get use to using lead free solder. Like every thing lead free will get better over time it might be as good as leaded solder in the near future.

[@rimmyman]

well, it inspired me enough to run out and buy some. thanks for the heads up!

[@byroboy]

Does anyone know what is the solder used in lipo batteries is? 60/40 doesn't stick to the metal, I ended up scavenging solder from a dud cell to make my last connection.

[@mgfails9274]

Bro, 60/40 solder is good for good quality solder joints and easy to work, but is a bit toxic if you are not careful. The lead-free solder is har to work (you need to wse higher temeprature), but is safer. To use lead-free solder properly, you will need to incerase the soldering iron temperatoure. The liquid-solid transition will take a bit longer(1-2 secons) not 5-6. I'm not a lead-free solder fan, but i presentet advantajes/devantajes of the solder. I hope this were useful.

[@HeartOfGermany]

Honestly... Since lead is heavy, I bought lead free - which was way cheaper per volume. It was not labled, so I did not even know, if it had rosin core - luckyly it has! It is 0.5mm solder. It is great for SMD and ultra fine pitch through hole. (The distance between to 1.27mm pads can be almost 0, if the pads are large!) I dissolved cheap rosin from ebay for 4€ 100 grams (!) in a few ml of ethanol. It is like runny honey, but perfectly clear. I preflux on ANY soldering. The solder flows amazingly. It is very easy to work with and the spool is not close to get used up. I am on the cheap site all the time - skill and flux fixes all the problems! Oh, and good soldering tip. Don't forget to always brush of any remaining flux, or in high humidity environment your PCB will slowly rot away over time. (Metal corosion)

[@godfreypoon5148]

I find the 63/37 stuff is definitely worthwhile. Flows better, looks better, etc, as you've said. The stuff I use is made by Yulong DingDong Industries. That Jaycar stuff is OK, but not brilliant. I think the flux is a bit ordinary. Get yourself a few rolls of a good 63/37 and you will never look back. Kester is apparently the pick of the litter.

[@ryanjofre]

Kester Eutectic 63/37 is the best unless you need some silver for HIFI then Cards audio and others are tops DingDong......lmao.

[@charlesklein7232]

is soldier conductive? i have always wrapped my leads together and then soldier them however i have seen a person build a copter by putting blobs of soldier on each end of a wire and then melting them together and it appears to work consequently it appears that the wires don't have to make contact,

[@astromancer]

- 60/40 is not eutectic - there are eutectic lead-free alloys (eg SAC) - set your soldering station about 40°C higher for lead free - FFS use some flux

[@frozenprakash]

Learn to solder at higher temperature, as far as i'am concerned i use Solder Gun most of the time, so Pure Tin solder doesn't make any difference to me, I had seen many newbies working for first time in Tin or Tin/Ag whining about how good is lead free. Even on resistance scale Tin is twice as best (lower resistance is better), Lead = 220 nano ohm meter, Tin = 110 nano ohm meter. Reference: Silver = 16 nano ohm meter (best conductor in metal) Copper = 17 nano ohm meter (cheap and best conductor in metal for mass use). Added, inhaling Lead is toxic and has serious effect on lungs.

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Thank you for this excellent video and GREAT info! I wish I would have had more training in this area while I was getting my High Tech Automation Robotics college degree. Luckily, I learned it extremely fast in practice! Just be careful you don't inhale the LEAD fumes, because it will literally drive you insane!!! Also, wash your hands, and keep the kids away from.

[@foo2332]

The fumes don't contain any lead. Lead does not vaporize at such low temperatures. The fumes are from the flux and the flux in lead free solder is actually even more toxic than the flux from leaded solder.

[@40ishcosplay9]

Lead free solder is one the reasons I stay busy as a repairman. Not a day goes buy where re-soldering components or a connection doesn't resolve a problem. On my personal work, I always use leaded solder. So in reality; I hate lead-free and and also love it.

[@rusack7174]

I bought some super thin solder from B**gg**d and found it almost impossible to work with. I hate to waste things so I'd use it when soldering XT60 connectors. I'd wrap the tinned wire leads with the solder and then push in the connector. Then I'd heat the piece and the heat would transfer through to the solder. Worked well enough but you sure can tell when you use a quality solder. Almost so much nicer that you start looking around for other things to solder! :)

[@the_real_foamidable]

I use lead free without any problems for big joins like XT60 and thicker cables. Its a german brand however.

[@wordreet]

+foamidable You should be able to edit your YT comments. Try clicking the little circle on the right.

[@the_real_foamidable]

+wordreet Thanks, I didn't know that.

[@wordreet]

+foamidable okys

[@goeland86]

Could you use the lead-free solder when preparing PCBs and baking them in the oven? Also, question, I've noticed my soldering iron tip is being eaten away, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't have copper in the mix. I bought some solder from Hobbyking which works really well, but as I can't read chinese, I was wondering if they'd possibly use an acid flux? Would that explain the tip being eaten away?

[@greghines9346]

Hey bruce thanks for this post. Ive tried using lead free just for that reason to be safer, but it sucks.

[@johnnyfiver4274]

Lead free solder needs a higher temp to flow and it will have a 'dull' look to it. It will not look shiny as the leaded solder does.

[@EraYaN]

Or use some of the tin/silver/copper based solders. If you buy any of the "not-cheap" stuff, you can easily use lead-free solder. Especially important if you want to comply with RoHS stuff.

[@LeoTheHuman]

Bruce, I want the cutting/soldering mat like the one you're using here. Do you know where I can get one? Thanks!

[@CandyHam]

What is that keyword you used in the video? "Utiptic?" How do you spell that?

[@mikko3d]

Eutectic, i'm pretty sure.

[@britinozoz]

I have a roll that is a similar size as the one you show from Banggood....and when I removed all the solder...I found that the hub was 10 mm thick.. giving the impression that there was a lot more on the roll.

[@NitroTom91]

At work we used lead free solder for a few years now because we have to and I have never seen anything like that happening. Perhaps a matter of temperature? We solder at 232°C for SMD and a bit above that by hand. Never had issues. Our customers need very high quality for prototypes and smaller serial production, and nobody ever complained over the years.

[@leighhodge849]

Please help I run Rc cars and sometimes the bullet connectors can de solder with the 60/40 would I be better using the lead free with can take more heat thanks

[@sagetx]

so i used my soldering iron to melt some perfect holes in a plastic sheet fire insulating carbon parts. Anyway I cannot seem to clean the tip of residue and solder will not sick to it anymore. Do you have any tip cleaning tips? I've used Flux and then a wire brush. Not being cheap, i did but a new tip, but no sense in throwing out good parts of they can be cleaned.

[@WorBlux]

If the tip is solid copper, you can file down to a clean suface, otherwise it's time to throw that tip out.

[@mj2906]

dude - lead poisoning in soldering using industry was quite common. Use more flux and your result will be much better.

[@michaelinglis8516]

Exactly, I've just seen two comments already in here from people who are bashing lead free solder but one didn't know you need to use more heat for lead free and the other said that "you don't need flux cause it's already rosin core, lead free just sucks". Using extra rosin flux whether it be liquid (my preference) or paste will significantly improve the ease of use and the joint quality. Most of these guys are to blame not the lead free solder. I use leaded when I can but I certainly have no problems with using lead free.

[@nor4277]

I only use lead solder ,for over forty years ,I bought some small size Chinese solder ,it says lead 63/37 ,how do I no it's lead for sure ,I got a decent size roll for under five bucks.

[@conrad5551]

Bit of trivia Bruce.......As a plumber if we had sticks of solder with no markings, we would bend it near our ears and if it crackled you would know it had more tin than lead and vise versa........60/40 ...40/60..Now it is replaced by silicone..

[@Tore_Lund]

Lead free solder flows differently and looks dull keeps me wondering every time if the joint is good! If I'm doing repairs, I suck up the lead free solder with litze, tin the pad with lead solder and suck it up again. Then I can have my beautiful leaded solder joint.

[@muhammadrafiqulislamkhan6994]

would you pls give a tip to use solder wire ? what type of solder wire should use for any pcb board? and how much watt should be for iron solder to use? thanks

[@cute_duck69x3]

Plot twist: he suffers from lead poisoning

[@noderzleadgen]

iq loss: 50 points (lead-free is not as good as leaded solder, so might as well 🤪🤪)

[@joelweinert3580]

One other problem with non-lead based solder is lack of ductility. This results in cracked joints on surface mount components after repeated heating/cooling cycles or after flexing of the board. It is problematic especially on larger chips and chips that run hot.