Solder wire - Low Quality Lead vs Lead Free

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[@ivanborshev8187]

No shiny joints today. Sad.

[@Androkavo]

Oh yes, maybe i'll try car polish gel

[@sleeperawaken36]

Or you could use good quality leaded solder for a shiny finish

[@anonamemous6865]

@@Androkavo mine is not shiny and not even melting and not sticking to surface

[@ParrotParrot]

Ah yes, 60/40 of tin/tin. Thanks china

[@sebastianjones7589]

why would anyone sell tin but say it's lead? thats like selling silver but saying it's steel it makes no sense.

[@blaser80]

Sebastian Jones who knows why, but it's clearly got no lead or it wouldn't go mushy before it goes liquid and would shine after it solidifies. This 60/40 stuff behaves identically to 99% tin.

[@sebastianjones7589]

blaser That’s not how lead works.

[@blaser80]

Sebastian Jones It's how 60/40 works though, so it's clearly not 60/40.

[@sebastianjones7589]

not all lead tin alloys work well for soldering. 60/40 is one that does. If you are trying to sell the cheapest solder possible how would you change the alloy? would increase the amount of expensive tin or increase the amount of cheap led? there is a reason they put 60% tin in 60/40 solder. it would be cheeper to put 50% or 30% tin but those alloys are not so nice for soldering.

[@markphilpot8734]

Here’s the story, if you can’t use anything but 60/40 tin/lead solder, you aren’t going to get the best results. There is only two ways to go. 63/37 tin/lead solder is the best to use because it only has two states, either liquid or solid. The others have what is known as a plastic range because the ratio of tin to lead is not ideal. The flux core matters as much as the ratio in that the flux core that has a proven track record is most ideal is the rosin mildly activated flux core as it provides the best appearance, cleans the best, and yields the best bonded joints as if they are produced under the strict DOD STD 2000-1 which is the equivalent of the new J STD 006 level 3, will yield results that can handle g forces, mechanical and physical stresses, as well as thermal inversions. Granted not everyone is capable of achieving this level of soldering excellence and most may not care, but anything worth doing is worth doing well or not at all. Opinions may vary. Results are worth the effort. As to the lead free solder, SAC 305 and SNC 100 are alternatives. Soldering is important whether it is a project or your job. There is no place for mediocrity in soldering. I learned this as an Air National Guard Avionics Technician by my supervisor who was a instructor/inspector in soldering. He inspired me to see the importance of soldering excellence. You can reach this with practice. Yes you!

[@electronics_hobbyist]

Low quality 60/40, you should say that, a good quality 60/40 melts at lower temp than lead free and gives off a more shiny surface, low quality 60/40 solder acts in a similar way to lead free

[@grindererrofficial3755]

Exactly what i though when i saw 60/40...i just though "its not 60/40, its behaviour of non leaded stuff of cheapest chinese stuff" . I using fluitin soldering wire and it melts like butter with 200C and has super nice shiny joints.

[@anonamemous6865]

Mine becomes sand when heated and sometimes become a gel when heated.... Guys please help

[@grindererrofficial3755]

@@anonamemous6865 not enough flux, or not enough heat or not good quality soldering wire

[@user-pj3uv6re7s]

Ditto. The video is using low quality 60/40. Real ones don't behave like that at all. They behave even better than lead free IMO.

[@DmitryFedotov]

Just tested today, Chinese lead 63/37 vs good quality lead free and lead free gives much better result and even melts better, iron at 320C.

[@totoxahc]

60/40?? hahahhaha

[@Chupacabras222]

What soldering iron are you using? Is it the same quality as those solder wires?

[@harisyoung4110]

im bet its weller...

[@Leo-gt1bx]

60/40 is the only way to go!

[@topQuark12]

Maybe try SN100C alloy next, cheaper than alloys with silver, lead free and does not look like crap after joint solidifying.

[@Androkavo]

Very rare in my location Thank for your info, maybe i'll try

[@tookitogo]

But it’s even harder to work with than the lead-free used here... In the grand scheme of things, even “expensive” solder doesn’t cost much. I mean, the amount used in a joint is negligible. If you’re producing at a scale large enough for the cost of the solder to be meaningful, you’ll already have the process know-how to be beyond these videos.

[@topQuark12]

Antonio Tejada in my experience, at 350°C, SN100C flows better than the SAC305 alloy shown in the video and leaves a shiner joint.

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

Tat Wong What's the composition of "SN100C"? Is it 100% Sn + some unspecified Carbon?

[@utube4greenfuture]

Can you do a video on what low quality PCB boards look like / faults. Thx

[@slybunda]

300c my ass its not even heating up the flux

[@twintyara6330]

I can smell the smoke

[@--ZENITH--]

zhen solder wire - poo/900, sn/60, pb/40 it's true.

[@noderzleadgen]

is eating leaded solder safe? It tastes very yummy

[@aaravmusic79]

No

[@noderzleadgen]

@@aaravmusic79 how so

[@jamescole3152]

Which makes me wonder. Has anyone sanded off the surface of these solders to see if the surface and under the surface are the same? It seems like the highest silver content has the silver on the surface but could be fine underneith. The 3% silver seems to have the worst surface finish.

[@Sarah-Hoe]

Hello! Love your video! I’m making some jewelry, but I truly appreciate your demo! Last night was my second time and I believe I need a different soldering material. It will be lead free. Any recommendations? The stuff I’m using came with the kit I found in my brothers things. He passed away and it feels really amazing to use his iron in my art. I am making pendants. Shells, quartz, other crystals and minerals. Any input greatly appreciated ✨💞🤗

[@FunBitesTV]

Sarah does it have to be lead free, im guessing yes as its jewelry, leaded is so much better though

[@drazenkulic3279]

Which tip you use ? Is that hakko tip 900m t 1.6D. or 2.4d or something else ?

[@Androkavo]

1.6D

[@jamescole3152]

Wow what an amazing video. Great job!

[@tookitogo]

I hate how you go and heat each joint multiple times... even if this is just a demo, it’s a bad technique to even hint at. (And I know you do the same thing in your other videos.) Just do it with the right amount of solder and dwell time the first time! The cavitation that happens in the through-hole demos is because you’re not giving the plated through-hole enough time to heat the other side, to allow proper capillary action. You wait for the “suction” to happen *before* withdrawing the iron. Also you need to learn to add a bit of solder to the tip as a thermal bridge before touching the iron to the work.

[@hightttech]

Antonio Tejada: AGREED.

[@Androkavo]

I know, because in this video for test solder skin change or not when re-soldering. Happens in the through-hole is effect brittle/low surface tension of lead-free solder, not heat problem, you can see detail at 10:30. "Add a bit of solder to the tip" i agree, but not compatible for test video, someone will say "maybe he use other solder alloy on tip then soldering with lead/lead-free for change result"

[@tookitogo]

Androkavo What a load of nonsense. You’re all focused on making your videos pretty (which they are), but at the expense of making the content wrong!! Crazy! Lead free solder isn’t as nice as leaded, for sure, but it certainly will flow if done properly. As for adding solder to the tip first: what a crazy excuse. Just show it on camera!!

[@hightttech]

Androkavo: The problem is, you are not narrating the video. You make us guess what you are demonstrating. If you are going to abandon good practice (e.g. wetting the tip) to make a point during a demonstration, then you need to EXPLAIN WHAT YOU ARE DOING. People new to soldering will try to learn proper techniques from your video, and they are going to learn bad technique by accident. Also, you look unprofessional to experienced technicians by accident. Narrate or use subtitles in videos. Cheers.

[@joac2512]

Antonio Tejada Because you don't know huge different and limit between soldering normal and soldering on macro zoom. At macro zoom, camera very near solder point, space for hand soldering and vision very limit, if higher a little bit than solder point for tin/wetting tip will lost focus (blur) and soldering iron look very shake (a little bit of shake can't see by pure eye, but very clear on microscope), and other limits but i not say here

[@shinevisionsv]

Awesome video!

[@Ro-Bucks]

I'm using the first solder on the vid, it's not that bad though. Maybe they changed the product idk.

[@josxd8598]

Hey mate!, nice video, can you answer me something, today I soldered some things wearing latex gloves, i grabbed the solder wire with them, and the wire let a gray on the gloves, is that lead residues?

[@saffronkiwi7008]

Most likely

[@josxd8598]

​@@saffronkiwi7008 what about when solder wire is already soldered into a component, does still leaves residues? because when is already soldered is stronger.

[@saffronkiwi7008]

@@josxd8598 usually solder does not have that much residue but it is normal to see gray dust on gloves. If you are scared of lead , make sure to wash your hands after and solder in a place where you will not eat to prevent cross contamination. If you take these measures it is safe

[@amppower]

Why low temp???

[@AtayMLG]

ben de onu diyecektim amele gibi boş yere uğraşıyor

[@mrBDeye]

It’s not easy to find good solder nowadays. I still have a few spools of 60/40 rosin core. Solder joints are shiny like a mirror. Today’s soldiers can’t do that.

[@andreabuono9693]

Hi, I'm using the stannol HS10, can you tell me if it's a good quality and Wich should be the best temperature? Thanks.

[@taccomaker]

Hi, I'm an electronics technician and I have used Stannol HS10 for most of my career. I like to say that it is definitely a decent quality solder, although I prefer Kester over it. The reason for that is the HS10 is the formula of the flux core which is rosin activated in the case of HS10. I do need an RMA or No-Clean type of flux for my work. I still like HS10 a lot and I would recommend it for private use, as it is easy to work with due to the rosin activated flux. The HS10 comes in a variety of alloys, leaded as well as lead-free ones. I would definitely go for a leaded alloy such as 60/40 or even 62/36/2 which is my favorite due to the even more shiny joints compared to 60/40. But that is just an optical issue, the most important thing about solder wire or paste in general is that it is leaded. Brand or flux type matter way less than that. Lead-free solder in general sucks.

[@dsalpha18]

Good video, more screen text would explain what you are doing at the time. What are you trying to say?

[@leozendo3500]

That cheap one is lead-free.

[@akllvida9767]

Thanks for video

[@snrsmh]

which one should we choose?

[@Stransh]

none of above

[@charleshuang5093]

what cleaner did you use for cleaning flux residue ?

[@Androkavo]

Alcohol with paintbrush

[@TMS5100]

lead-free solder is just terrible.

60/40=1,5 %1,5 lead....

[@kevsmith562]

What kind of garbage 60/40 is that?

[@MrSlehofer]

lol, no try the ultimate, low quality lead free solder from china :) I bet its gonna be more of a ceramic than metal

[@my_name_l9410]

Buy pos-61 and test this solder pls

[@EasyOne]

good

[@supjay3945]

newbie so i don't know whats the difference. on to another video

[@el_nestorvgc]

for wirdo ppl this is so exciting LOL c'mon this is so satisfactory

[@andreim841]

Re-upload?

[@ivanborshev8187]

No, it's the other one.

[@TommieDuhWeirdo]

No... the other one was just low quality vs high quality leaded solder. That video showed that the low quality leaded solder looked like lead-free, so now hes testing a high quality lead-free and a low quality leaded.

[@frmfntboy]

Yes. Re-upload!

[@imtiazkhan0]

Lead free is the work of the devil

[@markphilpot4981]

There is nothing that yields a shiny and great solder joint like a pure eutectic solder can yield. 60/40 is a piss poor choice for any solder application because it is not a pure eutectic solder and it has a plastic range because it is not a pure eutectic which has no plastic range. 63/37 solder, aka pure eutectic solder, has a ratio of 63% tin and 37% lead. It’s core is flux of a rosin based nature. There is an Sn62 which has a 2% silver content. But neither one of the solders you used in this video will ever meet, much less beat, a pure eutectic solder. The RMA formulation of a pure eutectic yields the highest quality and highest reliability of any solder formulation and I do know that ROHS compliance is the law of the land. However, it hasn’t been proven to me that no ROHS formulation can stand up to the rigors of the best RMA formulation of tin/lead or tin/lead/silver in the pure eutectic variety, particularly Kester 282 in either Sn62 or Sn63 formulas. That’s not my opinion sir, that is a fact proven by countless reliability tests!

[@John_Smith__]

The first time I tested a expensive non-leaded solder was the last time I ordered or used it. And of course the 60/40 on display is Obviously Not a 60/40 mix ... I have the exact same experience about solder joints. Nothing beats the 63/37 Quality Solder.

[@16BITMEME]

I hate tin 5:44 I got this one and it is very bad🥴

[@harisyoung4110]

i dont understand why lead free solder is more expensive but the finish result is not nice and shiny compare to leaded... and why people prefer to use lead free solder ?.

[@SomeAngryGuy1997]

It's supposedly safer for the environment, and less toxic, but in reality, all it really does is make soldering (and repair by extension) a pain in the ass.

[@Bobo-ox7fj]

It reduces the tiny, tiny amount of one particular heavy metal in electronics scrap in exchange for vastly increasing the amount of electronic scrap as a result of universally inferior mechanical and thermal properties :)

[@retroa-go-go6888]

This is nonsense, I hate lead-free solder as it just doesn't flow properly. I use 63/37 Tin/Lead solder and get nice shiny ball joints on surface mount components or cones on through-board components. Try cranking your Iron upto 350C and see the difference, nice shiny joints from leaded solder. Lead-free is a scam and looks terrible.

[@Rainbow_Sword]

My god 400C is unbearable for me to watch. You're destroying you soldering iron tip with insane oxidation rate. You can see it Turing yellow/orange/brown

[@Rainbow_Sword]

I never solder with temperatures over 300C. Any temperature over 300C is a torture for my soldering iron tip that's why I seldom use lead free solder

[@howardlam6181]

lol made in china

[@chrisharvie-smith486]

Really painful to watch awful soldering. Real lead/tin 60/40 melts at less than 190 C so something is missing ! Rosin flux is worthless beyond wetting the iron tip. That gel flux looks like more rosin. Acid flux will clean the joint and lower the temp needed. It should capillary to the pad and pin strongly even for less free. Just clean it off afterwards (Cheap source is plumbers flux paste for copper pipe joints).

[@tookitogo]

Chris Harvie-Smith Terrible advice. If rosin flux isn’t working, you’ve got MAJOR oxidation or contamination problems that you should be addressing some other way. Acid flux doesn’t belong anywhere near electronics, since even the tiniest amount remaining after cleaning will cause catastrophic corrosion over time. (And it is categorically impossible to remove it from stranded wire since it wicks up the strands, under the insulation.)

[@tookitogo]

Chris Harvie-Smith But i do agree that this is awful soldering. All his videos are... wait till you see his latest, on tip care... sandpaper, need I say more? ::facepalm::

[@joac2512]

Antonio Tejada What wrong with you ? high grit sandpaper and enough pressure is right way for remove oxidation high thickness (with enough pressure can't remove plating, i already test it) , do you have other ideas?

[@brunoleonardo3315]

Instead of criticizing just for the sake of it, why don't you explain another way to do it?