SOLVE YOUR SAAB BOOST ISSUES and others

PCV system in the SAAB 93 is often ignored.
A clogged PCV valve can blow your seals and cause many troubles.
In this video, we look at the other case where it can slip without being properly diagnosed, a leaking PCV valve that causes loss of boost, eratic boost, oil consumption.
In addition, the car did knock under high load although not heard but u still can look at the knock counters in a scanner, provided you are using the correct fuel rating for your car, the oil is forced into the combustion chamber by boost leaking into the cylinder head, and it will cause the knocking.

[@deanmcclaughlin914]

Just did this in mine funnily enough, although I've ended up blanking it off, essentially removing the pcv system and running a catch can setup to avoid any oil burning whatsoever. It's solved all sorts of problems I was having, oil consumption, fuel consumption, erratic idle, misfire/knocking under full load, harsh gear changes with the auto box. Amazing what problems a little plastic spliff looking thing can cause.

[@amirsmailagic6047]

Hi Dean! How you did that? How did you fit a catch can, and where? Perhaps an another nice video with that upgrade? Cheers.

[@milosrog]

how did you block this check valve?

[@goodcitizen3910]

No fucjing way bro Those are literally all the problems I’m seeing right now

[@caractacusbrittania7442]

Old thread I know, but if you want to block the pcv system and run a catch can , it's easy. Rear left of the cam cover is a hose Bout 2omm dia, attached to a spigot on the cam cover. It travels down and attaches to the turbo intake side. Unplug it from the spigot,fit a bolt in it and clamp it tight with a hose clip. Run a hose from the spigot to a catch can, the can will have two ports,either will do. On the other port fit a mini breather Looks like a very small induction filter. Clamp all hoses and mini filter with hose clamps. I sighted my can in front of my induction filter, but since I've changed back to the stock air box, I moved it to the right hand side of the coolant bottle next to the abs pump. I've noticed on doing regular oil changes the old oil is a lot cleaner, the car idles better, and picks up better.

[@elfkind5590]

So that is what my future looks like? Suddenly, I miss my 99 93.Great video!

[@guitarlover302]

Excellent ! Had mine done at RTJ autos in Stockport Car was using half litre of oil every 1k miles - not had to top it up since last service Also slightly lumpy idle gone Valve was £17 👌

[@apostolisr8556]

Hello again, (Saab 93 Aero, Year 2004, B207R) I'm writing here as well to explain you with details what is the problem with my Saab. So... Approx before a year the car starts to rough at idle and when accelerating. WIth that i mean too much vibration from the engine. We changed the engine mounts first and a lot of things later. The problem remained there. Now the car (after a lot of things changed, new parts and a huge bill) still has vibration at idle and when running plus misfiring at idle. So now the car is worst than before a year and a half ago. At the moment i'm not ridding the car because i want to protect it from the misfiring, catalytic converter, O2 sensors... Also, we did vacuum leak test, we checked spark plugs, coils etc... Nothing. Everything looks are working good and they are new... We changed them for different reason before the problem that i'm describing here. Anyway, we believed that the ECU is causing the intermediate-periodically misfiring and the vibration. Because we changed or checked almost everything. Also, some times now with the misfiring a check engine light comes on with "random misfires" code. Any help ? Just help if you can.... Please. Aaaa and the hole point is that the problem is periodically. For example... If you are driving the car daily, as mine you will have the problem for 1 or 2 months and then its running ok. Later again the problem comes back...

[@caractacusbrittania7442]

Vibration could be balance shaft plastic guides, The b207 has two chains, A cam chain and a balance shaft chain. On mine I had vibration and clicking Diagnosed as balance shaft, On removal two of the plastic guides the chain runs in were snapped in two. Replaced balance shaft chain, guides and sprockets ( all comes in one balance shaft chain replacement kit) Engine has no vibration now, and idles fine.

[@andypap3381]

Αποστολή καλησπέρα. Το έλυσες το πρόβλημα τελικά? Αν ναι πως? Σε ρωτάω γιατί εδω και 2 μηνες αντιμετωπίζω τα ιδια..Ανδρέας

[@KarlMcClelland]

fantastic video. Greetings from Belfast, Northern Ireland

[@Goblabla]

Superb video! Replaced mine today, it was broken indeed. Have the SAI made it a bit more difficult, but still manageable. However, after a test run it still seemed to have a high knock and misfire count (although lower and before the fix). Should the turbo be the likely suspect atm? Or should I await a few more days of driving in case there is still oil in the rest of the intake system?

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

The counts themselves dont matter, as long as the engine feeling good

[@mcdonald2037]

Reminds me of when I had my 02 Volvo s80 t6 ...I got it cheap n I had a small whole on top of the engine n I didn't know what was going on until later but the car did last me and it paid it self up but the prior owner didn't took care of it that had so much sludge I took alot of it but the damage was already done so after that I was well ik get a Volvo in the future so now I have an 05 Saab 9-3 2.0T cov arc I know from what I read some cars you do have to do this and others Saab 9-3 you don't .

[@craigmacfarlane403]

Thanks so much for this video. I'm about to replace the PCV valve in my B207L SAAB engine and this video will make it so much easier. I have a question about the silicon lube grease (with PTFE) that you flashed up on the screen to lube the o-ring on the new PCV valve. Can I use dielectric grease instead? It's also silicone-based and resistant to high temperature (and I have it lying around!). I can't see any reason not to use it but I thought I'd check before making a rooky mistake.

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

That should work fine 👍

[@craigmacfarlane403]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for confirming.

[@craigmacfarlane403]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I made on start on this today. Followed your example exactly and got the PCV valve out. I can blow through it easily in both directions. I can only blow through the new one in one direction and then with some difficulty. I guess that means it was broken! It's beer o'clock now. I'll clean everything and put it back together tomorrow. I've uploaded some images to DropBox for my own reference (partly so I know which nuts and bolts came from where). There's also a picture of the oil sitting in the manifold and the four dirty outlets. They look a lot worse than yours - the problem must have been there for a while. www.dropbox.com/sh/f2dctz6fe413yc8/AABKBgdk43w9DAeIcq31Q_cHa?dl=0

[@garrick7076]

@@craigmacfarlane403 I just got mine out today. Did you notice any improvements after changing everything, and getting it all back together? I also can blow thru mine both ways, and had a big pool of oil in the intake manifold.

[@craigmacfarlane403]

@@garrick7076 Hi, yes the engine surges were markedly reduced after replacing the PCV valve, and there was less oil on the spark plugs. A small leak from the timing chain cover seems to have stopped, or dramatically slowed, as well. Those three things are what alerted me to the problem initially, along with a larger leak from the vaccuum pump seal that I had a mechanic fix as soon as I bought the car. There are still some small engine surges, especialy when the engine is cold. I'm about to change the rocker cover gasket and I'm hoping that will fix it once and for all.

[@meca13b]

Excellent work!! Just bought my son a 2009 93 2.0 smokes after warms up . Will be doing this soon . What year is this ? Liked and subbed ✔️

[@janpetterolsen4979]

Would like to ser you driving the Saab as well. All the best:-)

[@ericbeard7007]

Love the video.. did you scare old gasket off film and should I order throttle gasket to? Or make on

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

If it is the original gasket on the car, then probably need replacing .. either new or made one

[@miroslavstanojkovic4123]

Hello, I just came across this video tutorial and need to ask you regarding the problem that I am having with my Saab 9-3 ss aero 2003. You see I am getting this check engine code p0101 . I have changed many parts that people have told me have to do with p0101. So far the check engine lamp is still on. What happens is that I get no power in first and second gear, but after I turn of the engine then the car drive good again. As I said I have already changed many parts that have some connection with p0101 but still the problem remains. So what I wanted to ask you is it possible that I can solve my problem (p0101) if I change my PCV valve and seal that you are showing here in this video? Thanks in advance for all the help. Best regards to you

[@dstimpy12]

Another great video. Wouldn't you think it would be advantageous to clean the valves while you have the IM off? The valves get pretty caked up with carbon deposits due to the GDI system. It's a bigger problem on the 08-10 TC Cobalt SS's but both 2.0T ecotechs none the less.

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Depend on the severity, but these engines are port injected not GDI, so its rare to see one in need for cleaning

[@dstimpy12]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I had no idea that these are PI, I thought for sure they were GDI just like the later 2.0T ecotec engines. That is very interesting to me. Thank you for the info. Looking forward to the next videos. I'm planning on swapping out both my k-frame and engine cradle for ones that are not rusted out. Odd swap I know, but you should see them. If you post a video dropping either, it would make life much easier😁.

[@ericbeard7007]

Hey do you have to un plug the connectors on ecu?. Can't you unholy and zip tie out of way.. I'm scared pins might break

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

U can, its ok both way

[@jth1987leb]

great video. looks easy enough to replace the PCV

[@Aero93]

One question. I have 2.0 Aero 2003, 189000km on clock, its running fine etc... Recently I have removed rubber pipe from TB, pushed tb flap to see inside of Intake manifold, there is small oil pot in the intake. Is that normal. But I dont loosing any oil from last service ( driven over 6000km). How to know if my PCV is bad, without removing intake manifold? Do I have to worry? Thanks FMDIY!

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

As long there is no oil loss/smoke/power loss .. then all is fine

[@Aero93]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Big respect for replying. Thank you!

[@nelsonjaneiro5543]

i have a miss fire in mine same engine 2.0t 2005 you think that could be the problem need help on this one please good video like it👍

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

May i ask u to register at the saabcentral forum and post ur question there for me easier to answer back and forth.. thanks. The short answer is maybe, but less likely. This engine is famous for eating coils, and very sensitive to only have OEM plugs and coils.

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

MOD SQUAD, u will need a scanner that can read live misfire data .. do u have one ?

[@achishukuteki941]

Good video. Thank you. But what size is the hose clamp for the hose end at the throttle body (the side you had to put a zipties on)?

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Sorry man, No idea ..

[@achishukuteki941]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY ok. Thanks any way

[@ericbeard7007]

Is the wat to remove throttle body and hook up to pvc and test or has to come off

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Yes, if u have a vacuum hand pump with the right fittings

[@johnnyturbo8859]

Did you change the pcv or clean it?

[@shanemattox6548]

I just replaced my turbo on my 2009 9-3 but it is still smoking, I heard the PVC valve could also cause the smoking? Thoughts?

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

U always replace your PCV valve first if u have smoke .

[@shanemattox6548]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY That's what I get for not watching You tube first. :) I am struggling to find a replacement part. Any recommendations?

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Shane Mattox hard to find online nowdays, but visit ur nearest GM dealer and check for either of these parts: 55557180/12797658/12786376

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Shane Mattox by the way, did u remove it and test it already ?

[@shanemattox6548]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I guess you could say I did a generic test. I put a hose over the hole and was able to blow through it. I didn't want to keep taking everything apart if It wasn't bad. But to basically answer your question I have not fully taken it our yet to test.

[@bigreddaman5988]

Is it possible to add a catch can to the pcv system???

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Yes .

[@boozerdm1]

Could a bad PCV valve be the cause of a returning oil leak from the vacuum pump and the power steering pump (assuming all respective seals, gaskets, and o-rings have been replaced correctly)?

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

It could, but usually there will be leaks from everywhere, specially rear and front crank seals

[@boozerdm1]

Thanks! I will check the bolts again for tightness. I drive a '07 9-3 2.0T with 120k miles and the PCV has never been replaced. I ordered the valve and the intake manifold gasket so I might as well give it a go.

[@STAMATAKISM]

Another one great video!My friend i have an issue with my turbo.I have a SAAB 9-3 aero my04 stage1.I cannot hear the relief valve.After a few miles (about 10-15), when i am driving with 3000 and lower rpm, the boost is delayed, then i have a kick down (auto transmission) and it goes to 4000-4500 to give me boost.When i leave the acceleration pedal, the relief valve don't works (as i told you before).My tubes have not any damage.I replaced the turbo valve (cod 55354158), but ...nothing!The cartridge is ok.I don't have any leaks.I have not any check engine.The first miles (about 10) when the motor's temperature is about 40-60C, i have good boost, but not perfect. Please, can you help me?Thank you a lot!

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Does the turbo gauge reaches or go into the red zone ?

[@STAMATAKISM]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY when it's up to 3500 rpm it's going to red

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Even when the car is hot ? Correct ? Or same after few minutes it does not go into red ?

[@STAMATAKISM]

When the car is hot, it must kick down to previous years after 3500 rpm to reach the red zone.Lower than 3500, there is lag and the car is too slow, so I press the pedal of acceleration to the end, it kick down (after 2-3 sec) it reaches suddenly 4000 plus rpm, and then goes to the red zone.I forgot to tell you, that I hear the turbo keeping its turns and don't relieve.

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

@@STAMATAKISM kickdown is not recommended to reach maximum boost, try using the third gear only (on manual mode) press the gas all the way down from 2000rpm, see at what rpm turbo will go on red (with the car hot) then report back

[@joshrawks21]

Hey brother what site did you get your pcv valve on? I tried looking on eeuroparts for my 08 93 and wasn't showing up. Thanks in advance

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Rockauto

[@guitarlover302]

Hi got mine from Parts for Saab’s - changing made massive difference in oil consumption 👌

[@jamesbutler4030]

I have a 2000 Saab 9-3 se turbo 2.0l 4 door hatch and about three days ago it started acting weird when starting and wouldn't idle rite I found the problem unsure what its call and does exactly. Its 1 hard hose on driver side that half way down it Ts off with another hose with a valve (broken nipple inhose) and it turns down a goes in a peice on I think the intake or block not sure but it sucks alot of air..

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

This is probably the brake vacuum hose, the car will run bad with it broken

[@jamesbutler4030]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY yes booster line fix it, i just got the car and not a mechanic but i do my own work if its not internal crap .. My turbo needle doesn't go pass or into the yellow at all so no boast I did notice that when I get down on it a vacuum hose comes off everytime.. I am going to replace all of them soon but any advice???

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

James Butler, which line exactly gets loose

[@jamesbutler4030]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY its the little bottle one on throttle body. Like I said I just got the car and I have no clue about anything so I'll just been going over and doing the best I know and I just noticed that one comes off when I get on it because the check engine light came on and then I got under the hood and look and yes it's that little one on the throttle body but all the lines need to be replaced there's no holes in them but they're just old.

[@ericbeard7007]

They tell me there is no package on my car at the store lol

[@shykaliguy33]

No package? Do you mean that your local auto parts store doesn't carry the is part? Usually, you'll need to look online for Saab parts. ESaabParts & EEuroParts are the best places for parts in that order. Download the EPC catalog as well from a Saab forum. It's free and will show you tear down diagrams and part numbers for your car. Once you have the parts number from the catalog, you can find them quicker and easier online or occasionally in store for ordering. 💯

[@goro70]

I have saab 93 2009 lately it started with oli consumption and now in 1, 2 and 3 gear i have no boost. I have checked allt vakuum lines almost everything i dont find anything. No engine light comes up. Can this be the cause? Please some advice. 🙏🙏

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

No boost at all !!

[@goro70]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY in second and thiird gear no very sllow and when you push more the rpm is high but no boost

[@goro70]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY hi sir. I have noticed that when car runs and it is warm that problem comes. When the engine is cold normal

[@goro70]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY i have checked all solnoids, vacuum lines nothing there

[@goro70]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY no i have noticed that when engine is warm that happens. As long as the engine is cold it runs perfectly. Maybe it is ECU

[@caractacusbrittania7442]

Leave the pc valve in place, cut the hose, plug one end, fit a catch can on the other side. No more black carbon fouled oil. No more octane deflating crank gas reburns. Idle will be better.

[@brianbondy5667]

I have a 2006 9-3 2.0T I have been having issues with. It sat for the winter I was driving it around the past few weeks and was getting the stability control message intermittently. Yesterday while at a red light I hit the gas and it started to roll then lost power and shut off. Car would not crank or even click. The car sat over night and started this morning. I pulled out of the driveway and reversed ok hit the gas and again it was like hitting a wall car would not move no matter how much the gas was pushed. Reversed it fine and got it back in the driveway. I have started to check the hoses and cant find anything obvious. Anyone have ay ideas of the cause of this? The loss of power happened with what I would say is little to no warning. Car had an engine light on and then off. It came back on for about a week prior to this happening.

[@milosrog]

Is there a way to completely remove this valve, would that be a problem?

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

It wouldnt harm to try, block the opening by silicon or any sort of plug

[@milosrog]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY maybe the simplest thing is to seal the chech valve in a closed position with silicone and leave it like that?

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

ShoX yaa, sure

[@milosrog]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY could you please check message I sent to you on facebook?

[@Aero93]

@@milosrog did you block pcv? If you did, do you have any negative symptoms after that?

[@Max-Headroom-]

I found the other video😁

[@alexikrystal9451]

Bro, this video would be a lot better if you talked. Or at least throw some music under it. Otherwise, good job.

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

My newer videos are of a better quality and with audio, i didnt have the right audio equipment at that time 😬

[@alexikrystal9451]

Cool, thanks. I found your other videos and they're great. Rock on.

[@bully6877]

Hi I've got a saab 93 linear sport 1.8T petrol 2007 is this the same procedure. My car has a what seems a low idle but the rpm needle dont fluctuate and car starts and runs well. When I stop at red lights or in traffic it feels juddery like it's about to stall.. but never have. Could this possibly help. Thanks for the great vid

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Hi marc, If you are sure your car has the 1.8i then u have a different engine than the one in the video, and although im not familiar with that engine as it is not available in our market, i can rule out any PCV issues. What i will look at is cleaning the throttle body and the MAF (mass air flow sensor), assuming the car has no check engine light illuminated and no faults stored in the ECU, in addition make sure that you are not experiencing a misfire by listening to your exhaust when the car is doing that (you should not hear buffing sound, it should be smooth exhaust sound).

[@bully6877]

@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thankyou for your reply. Very kind of you. I have the 1.8T ys3f petrol. I replaced the maf and followed your other steps. I do feel and hear a muddling pop sound from the exhaust. Also no stored codes or faults. No cel either. I'll keep trying. Thanks again for the advice.

[@bully6877]

Full service done new plugs new maf clean throttle body. New purge canister solenoid new battery. Really puzzled lol

[@deanmcclaughlin914]

@@bully6877 You have the same engine but a detuned one from the 2.0t. No idea why they called it the 1.8 when it's a 2.0. You've got a B207E, the lowest powered version of the 93. Next was the B207L (same engine, different ecu map) and the B207R which was the aero and its the same engine mostly, just has a bigger mitsubishi turbo, bigger injectors and a harsher cam profile. If the car is 12 years old then get a new valve in there, chances are it's broken and by sending boost into the valve cover and crank case you're risking many of the engine seals failing. These cars are prone to the power steering seal going and engine oil leaking into the steering reservoir. I'm willing to bet it's those pcv valves failing and pressurising the valve cover that causes them go pop. The first place that lost boost goes is upwards from the hole in the head and into the top of the engine, putting extra pressure behind the seals of the ps pump and the vacuum pump behind it.

[@jurijstorozuk6170]

Had the same thing, it was the throttle body. Cleaning it helped for some time, but eventually i ended up replacing it. No programming needed when you replace it, so you can do it yourself .

[@jaekwangChoi]

88 lbf in = 10 N M 20:34 surprise @@

[@derrickpotter3909]

I wish you would speak

[@TheFlyingMechanicDIY]

Derrick Potter im sorry i couldn’t do that in my earliest videos because i didnt have the right audio equipment ..

[@jaimeparadise]

41 minutes of video and ALL mute.. Hard to come across the issues and fixes.