218 SOLVED!! Why My Trailer Brakes Lock Up (You Guys Are the BEST!)

With only 2 weeks left until she has to haul her horse in the newly repaired trailer, and still no answers on why their trailer's brakes stay locked when connected to the truck, Farm Girl turns to the aid of her subs for help in solving the problem!
And guess what? They responded instantly and had some excellent suggestions to to offer!
In this spur of the moment video, Farm Girl walks through step by step, the suggestions offered to her, trying to trouble shoot the issue of her locked trailer brakes.
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[@ischmel3884]

Where Eric had the multimeter set, 20 DCV, is correct for what you are testing. DC is for cars and mobile eqpt. AC is for houses and barns and the like. That tubie thingy behind the bumper, is where you insert the jack handle to crank down/lower the spare tire. Good to know if you ever get a flat.

[@evankibbe590]

If you can see it . It's set for omes

[@RustyCarnahan]

I've seen this at least 3 times in my career. Your problem is most likely in the adapter plug on the trailer. Older 6 pin plugs were wired one of two ways. One way, when you use a 6 to 7 pin adapter, it works just fine. The other way, when you plug in the adapter, and turn on the ignition, the truck will send 12v straight to the trailer brakes. The first time this happened, we took our trailer to our local service center (Montgomery Trailer Sales in Langsville Ohio) we told him what was going on, and he knew exactly what it was. He took our 6to 7 pin adapter, and switched two wires around. I think it was the blue and black wires, but don't quote me. After that it worked 100% correct. The other times, I had the advantage of having wiring diagrams in front of me, and switched the wires around myself. There is another level to this concerning the trailer breakaway system, which is another can of worms. In all honesty, my advice would be to take your trailer to the closest trailer service center, and have them check it out and fix it properly. It will probably involve a new 7 wire cable, plug, and junction box, possibly breakaway switch and breakaway battery too. I know it sounds like it could get costly, but when it comes to your safety, the safety of your horses, and other drivers on the road, it's money well spent, and cheap insurance, with the added benefit of peace of mind.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@jbmbanter]

@@This1LifeWeLive I like Rusty's explanation. If you get Erik to turn on the ignition as you kneel close to the trailer wheels if it's wired you can probably hear the brakes applying. If he turns the ignition the opposite should happen. Also, will the trailer move or drag the wheels when it's not plugged in. If it won't move the shoes might be corroded to the drums as others have said.

[@traceyrhodes9721]

P

[@hectormeza991]

Mine was working fine until i bought a new adapter from tractor supply. Ill check into that, now my brakes lock up as soon as I plug it.

[@hturbo1007]

Susan, this same thing happened to me with my trailer. The adapter that Eric bought, open it up and switch the only two wires around that has screws. Because what is happening is the one wire is for the breaks and the other is for the day time running lights, so when you put the truck in gear you are sending power to the breaks and locking them. Good luck!!

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that! That sounds lik an easy enough test!

[@sodbuster518able]

I love your custom MI farm plate and i also just placed order for Maple syrup. I hope you get this trl figured out ,love what you do how you dive in and figure it out.hope my comments were helpful to you,

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks Bruce, just received your order! SHould be shipping it out Friday :D

[@timothygunckel7162]

Glad to help

[@gordbaker896]

Often if you reverse for a few feet the drum brakes will release. Rust/corrosion is the culprit. Brake 'shoes' 2 per wheel can also rust to the drum. Drums should be removed, Brakes inspected. They should be checked out by a qualified person. They are 12 volt activated by an electromagnet which rubs on a steel disc. The electrical connection at the truck is a cheapie and should have an embossed wiring diagram. The 4 terminals (3male 1 female) is known as a 'flat four', is for light trailers without electric brakes. The other is a round 7 pin. Normally not powered unless you turn your lights on. One pin is the ground. You can google trailer Connector wiring. Be sure to turn the meter off when done or you will kill the battery in it. Some turn off automatically. 11. 2V terminal is likely Battery Voltage and to charge trailer battery. One terminal is Ground (-) or Negative terminal. One should be 'hot' when the trailer brakes are applied from the dash of the truck or step on Brake pedal. There is an adjustable Controller as you want the trailer brakes to come on slightly before the truck brakes apply. No 'jackknifing'. The others run trailer lighting, power to recharge trailer battery, left and right signal which are also Brake Lights. The flat four should show tail lights, left and right signals which are also Brake lights and the covered terminal is Ground, often white wire. There are also Google vids on how to run a Voltmeter, and the standard connector wiring. If ignition and lights were off there should have been only power on one terminal I think, to run battery charger in a travel trailer. Great attempt. That breakaway Switch is to automatically apply the Trailer Brakes if it comes loose from the truck. There is a small cable that connects snugly to the towing vehicle. It gets power from that battery you found which should immediately be put on charge overnight at 2 Amp charger setting and check voltage with your meter in the morning. Being discharged over the winter it Froze and destroyed internals. Get a new one. Fully charged it should read 12.0 to 13.5 Volts. VDC mean Volts Direct Current (Battery). Be sure RED cable goes to positive terminal of Battery. It is not the cause of Brake Lockup. That 'pipe' coming out of the back of the truck is where you put your crank into, to lower the spare tire via a cable you cannot see. That should be done at home to be sure it still works. Most don't. RTFM!!! The Volt meter is set for 20 Volts DC to adequately check any 12V Battery. I believe the Red terminal lead should go in the Top hole of the meter. You did good. On the wiring diagram I sent you, the Auxillary lead could run your rear camera if it is still working. Remember you need those 3 Lights top centre, not 2 and a camera on the rear of the trailer. Make sure the Trailer socket is locked OVER the ball this trip!

[@heavyhauler79]

I'm thinking to check the break away itself, I had one that malfunctioned, plus check if the magnets are making noise then the brakes are operating, then it could be a wiring issue

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@benharmon4207]

My suspicion is that the battery hot and the electric brake wires are switched. In the original 6 pin plug the the trailer had two different wiring options battery hot in the middle or brakes depending on the manufacture the the other pin is above the green wire right turn.

[@johnnathanarakaki7480]

On the truck end trailer connection( 7 way RV pin connector) try checking the power wire it's a wire that always has power too. The rest of your wires should not have power when your truck is off. Find each wire individually to your blinkers,parking lights,brake lights and trailer brakes. All this using your digital meter or a light tester.

[@yanceylindley5172]

Hi Susan, if you're trailer free wheels before you apply the brakes and then doesn't let off completely then you need to pull the brake drums off the trailer and make sure your silinoids are not sticking and everything is good and clean! Stay sweet

[@This1LifeWeLive]

The brakes release soon as the plug is disconnected from the truck, but if we are still having issues we will certainly check that :D

[@corbettknowles9942]

The breakaway switch just to give you a little insight on that that's for when in the event if your trailer breaks free from the truck is designed to come apart at the connection and lock the trailer brakes they can also cause intermittent trouble with the brakes if there is a short in that switch

[@nathanbrodeur]

Most multi meters have a tone setting I've found that setting is helpful and you can have the truck in the accessorie position and the 4 pin is usually for smaller trailers that don't have breaks the bigger plug is for the horse trailer and most auto parts stores sell a plug tester for trailer plugs and that pipe I believe is for the spare tire winch

[@This1LifeWeLive]

ohhhh, ok!

[@mikeskidmore6754]

I was pulling a tandem axel car hauling trailer on a rough I-94 and the battery jumped out of the box 15 years ago .. so far I have not missed it..

[@kensharp2453]

The break away battery should be at about 12.0 or more and only works to set the brake after the trailer breaks away during transit. It is hard to describe what you should be looking for but all of the functions will be at 12.6 to over 13 volts when in use. Lights, brakes and stop/turn signals. If you have no voltage going to the brakes they should release. If they do not release the problem is probably rust in the drums and back plates which does not allow the brake shoes to release.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@jbmbanter]

Put the little battery on a 12 V charger and see if it will come up to 12 V. It probably is supposed to be charged by the truck's alternator. If it doesn't charge up, then get one. It might be low from sitting around. The little plug with 3 females and one male is for light weight utility trailers.

[@diesel4508]

Very entertaining. Keep up the videos

[@This1LifeWeLive]

LOL thanks!

[@BigBear-qr4zn]

Ask Eric," what did you do lol 🤣

[@dhoop688]

It still sounds like the constant hot is hooked up to the brake line. Constant hot is mentioned for trialers with interior lights etc. Have Eric un hook the wire he connected and see if that releases the brakes. I ran into that on my dodge and also my f350

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@trevorhoplock3586]

If you have an aftermarket brake controller installed your manual slide switch on the brake controller could be stuck locking the brakes up. If you have a light on your brake controller it will be on if the that switch is stuck just re slide the switch back and forth and it should release. I have also had brake controllers that have a little tab switch on the side and if it’s not pointed downwards it will also engage the brakes

[@This1LifeWeLive]

We ahd our after market brake controlled disconnected in case that was the issue :)

[@any0n378]

Cudos to you for trying. It is so painful to watch someone struggle with something they have no idea about, and don't even know what they are looking at. The best (and sometimes most painful way) to learn is to just get stuck in. Not a criticism, but praise for you trying!

[@This1LifeWeLive]

UGH, yup so true!

[@mikehuff2791]

Trailer brakes require 12 volts to activate. No power no breaks. So your problem is not a dead battery. When you step on the brakes, the brake controller on the truck sends out voltage to the trailer. The brake system works with magnets. Once voltage is applied to the magnets they become energized and they stick to the drum face thus activating the brake linkage and sending the brake shoes outward and against the brake drum slowing the trailer down. The brake away is a normally closed switch. If the trailer brakes away the center pin will close the contacts in the switch sending 12 volts to the brake magnets and actuating the brakes. If the brake away battery is bad you can pull the cable removing the pin and nothing will happen. That’s why one of the pins in the trailer plug with the key on will be hot to give the battery a trickle charge. With the plug disconnected and the brake away pin installed the trailer brakes should not be activated and the trailer should roll freely. If not your brakes are probably froze up and need to be repaired. Hope this helps.

[@brittfarms2018]

The two types of plugs are the same purposes, the 4 prong is for trailers with 4 prong flat connectors,and the round plug is for newer trailers..they both serve the same purpise....check fuses as well, sometimes doing that can sometimes blow fuses.. breakaway cable is to stop the trailer if the trailer breaks loose from the truck

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks!

[@BigBear-qr4zn]

The plugs on the left are for trailer hook ups also the one in the middle I'm gonna say is for the more heavier duty trailers, that's the one you should be checking that's if your plug is that one.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks!

[@BigBear-qr4zn]

Welcome

[@MeltonIndustries]

Anybody else wanna jump through their computer and help this girl? Your 4 Pin connector (on the left) is for trailers without electric brakes Pin 1 on the top is for the right turn signal and the right brake light Pin 2 is the left turn signal and the left brake light Pin 3 is for the tail lights Pin 4 is ground The 7 pin connector (on the right) is for trailers with electric brakes. Pin 1 (bottom left) Ground Pin 2 (bottom right) Brake Control Pin 3 (top right) Tail lights and running lights Pin 4 (top left) Auxiliary 12V Pin 5 (Center right) Left Turn Signal and Left Brake Light Pin 6 (Center Left) Right turn Signal and Right Brake Light Pin 7 (Center) Backup Lights Check to see if you have 12 volts on Pin 2 on the 7 pin connector if so you need to check your brake controller wiring harness. If you don't know what color wire to look for Google year/make/model of the truck's brake controller wiring harness I think Ford uses a blue wire for the 7 pin connector. Hope you get this problem resolved! P.S. The pipe you were talking about goes to your spare you take the tool from the factory and stick it in there and you can turn it to lower and raise your spare tire.

[@steveholton4130]

I ABSOLUTELY Agree with everything Melton Industries has said and would simply add that: Pin #1GROUND is a WHITE wire, Pin #2 Trailer Brakes Is a BLUE wire, Pin #3 Tail Lights is a BROWN wire, Pin #4 Auxiliary + 12 volt Power is the RED wire, #5 Right Turn Signal and Brake Light is a YELLOW wire, #6 Left Turn Signal and Brake Light is a GREEN wire, And #7 Backup Lights is a VIOLET wire and not used on your trailer. Also, ONLY Pin #4 (RED) should have battery voltage (12 volts give or take0 when the key is turned to Accessary. All other pins are dependent on the switches in the truck as well ( Directional switch and Truck Brake Pedal switch, and Truck light switch). The Red wire supplys power to any and all 12 volt lights or accessaries INSIDE the trailer interior. I suspect it was cut because of a short caused by the accident earlier. If so, if you hook up the trailer without first either cutting it again or fixing the short, you will blow the fuse in the truck. The Breakaway Brake system is electrically isolated from the main breaks as long as the battery is out of the box. Troubleshoot the First problem to completion and correction before starting in it. Also, as you put each of the four wheels back on the trailer give it a spin to check for brake drag. sdh in ct

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks guys!

[@keithhimmelrick3868]

First time doing this but like your channel. First make sure you have either electric / electric brakes and not electric over hydraulic. Second your trailer plug and truck plug are not the same connection you need to get a flat pin male and a flat pin female. The lead you found hot at 1 o'clock is you hot lead or the battery from the truck. Your trailer brake battery needs to be replaced your voltage reading on your meter should read from 10 volt to 12 volt to show its fully charged. The trailer brake away only works when you pull out the pin and then with a fully charged battery will lock your brakes up on the trailer but with it put into place will release the brakes. The pin for the brakes on the trailer from the back of the truck sit at 5 o'clock. The wires on the truck at 3 and 9 o'clock are turn signal and 7 o'clock is the ground. Hope this help you.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that! I'm fairly certain they are eletric and not hydraulic though. I had not heard of hydraulic brakes, so now I'm going to have to look at my tractor ;D

[@shyfarmboya]

My two cents. You can get a trailer plug tester to see if everything is hooked up right just by looking at it. If remember right it’s about $20.00. And you should look at replacing the the trailer plug to a new 7 wire. Mine had maybe been on 5 years and went bad. And I recommend a Reese plug. Just seems to be built better. Good luck.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@JUDGEDKC]

I have a similar issue where my dump trailer tire rolls a few yards then locks up then releases for a few yards and locks up again. Any assistance is appreciated!

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Usually a wiring issue, the correction might not be secure, or a small break in the line. Could also be a fuse in your truck going bad -- some trucks have separate fuses for trailer brakes. Also check the ground cable on your truck battery. Some trailers also have battery back-ups and when bad or low can cause it to trigger . . .

[@TheWildWyvern]

Standard 7 plug, it's for bigger trailers, the one next to it is a standard 4 flat. It's for cargo or small trailers.

[@kennymysak2079]

If they where working fine before hooking that wire up then disconnect it cause my super duty has a extra wire for a power wire for lights. The center post is for back up lights so you may have a wrong wire hooked up is my guess and yes if the battery is dead your brakes will set and not fully release. Keep up the great videos

[@dhoop688]

Your right. I couldn't get back to her fast enough

[@This1LifeWeLive]

LOL thanks!

[@sodbuster518able]

Most pick up truck s these days come standard with both 4 pin flat conector,or 7 way round flat pins outlet

[@Ako-John]

Did you check the rhemastat connector to the phramister? But it's probably the battery

[@This1LifeWeLive]

ummm, lol

[@evankibbe590]

Highly possible but not likely. The center pin is the auxiliary. It should be live on the truck. If you the key to the on position you should be able to turn the turnsignal on right and left to find them in the truck plug . With the key off you should pull the head lights on and be able to find the Tail & marker pin . Then shut the lights off and have someone hold the brake pedal on the brake lights sould light the turnsignal pins only but the trailer brake should have power on a previously un powered pin . I understand this might be confusing. But I did the best I could of explaining this. If I was there I could figure it out in about ten minutes. 😊 hope this is helpful

[@gordbaker896]

Often the centre pin on 7 way is Reverse Lighting.

[@evankibbe590]

@@gordbaker896 like I said previously you never know what they did . I don't use those r v plugs because I don't like them because I have problems with them. Thanks because I didn't know that. I have not had one hooked up like that 😏

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks I will check!

[@smokum0]

If memory is correct the center pin is the trailer brakes, could be wrong though

[@smitty9120]

The center pins are for live power on your trailer if it had internal lights for example the outer ring are for your lights ground and turn signals

[@gordbaker896]

They are sometimes backup light terminals too.

[@sodbuster518able]

For your plug test you,ll need your parking lights on and 4 way hazards on to check for power out of 4 way or 7 way plug.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I will check :D

[@ronsommer9409]

The multimeter was setup correctly for testing DC volts. The 10A connection is not used for testing DC volts. There should have only been one terminal that had a voltage reading. The ground terminal should not have showed 0.3 volts. There are two possibilities for the voltage readings: the truck wiring has shorts the voltmeter is defective or needs a new battery. The license plate bolts may be screwed into plastic, so it is not a good place to use for ground. When the multimeter showed a -1, it also showed a low battery symbol. The tube above the spare tire is for inserting the jack handle to lower the spare. There has to be a hole in the bumper in line with the tube. The different bumper may also require a longer handle to lower the tire.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I'll ask Erik about replacing the battery first and then re-test :D

[@martinbenton742]

Your multimeters is set on 20 volts. So, you will have to double your digital read out number. Your breakaway battery read 6.4 or something like that. So, you had 12.8 actual volts. (Remember, your multimeter was set to read 20 volts). I would have someone hold the brake pedal and recheck your plug-in on the pickup. Also, is your brake controller in the pickup adjustable? If it is, is it set to max?

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that! The after market brake controlled in not installed since we were having issues and thought that to be the cause.

[@ronsommer9409]

The 20 volt DC setting is for DC volts up to 20 volts. It does not need the reading doubled. The reading was 0.64, not 6.4.

[@martinbenton742]

@@ronsommer9409 you are correct. I posted and went to bed. Laying there, I realized I was wrong on the multimeter part. I didn't have the time this morning to correct the post. I'll leave it for now. Unless it really bothers someone. They can read your comment correcting mine.

[@richardcarter5252]

The tube is where you put your jack handle in to lower the spare tire . Also how a break away works is if for some reason the trailer and truck become separated then the cable will pull the key out of the break away switch and will close the contacts in switch sending 12volts from the battery on trailer to the brakes stopping the trailer. So as long as the key is in the switch and your brakes are still locking up it’s not the break away . More likely wires on trailer plug not synced with the wires on truck. Plug

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks for the suggestions!

[@1969mackenzie]

Replace batt. Probably the plug on the trailer side. Don't worry about anything less than 1volt. It's dead or off. Most problems are either the plug or the trailer ground wire. ALWAYS make sure ur ground wire clean and rust free. Use a wire brush . It will be the wire going to a eyelet connector somewhere on the chassis. That's where I would start.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@williamkeehn3637]

There are 4 basic wires 1 lights 2 left turn 3 rt turn and break is hooked into the turn lights the 4th is ground Your 5th wire break and that's probably if it old enough trailer there's probably only 5 wires also if the breaks feel like there not releasing all the way you could have stray voltage causing them to apply or maybe your brake controller setting is not setup correctly On the truck the center prong is always hot/ power used for axillary power for work lights or something for your trailer My guess is that the problem is in the truck A good way to check all the lights on the trailer is hook jumper wire to the battery then into the trailer plug 1 at a time unless you got another vehicle with trailer plug and to check the breaks lift the trailer wheels of the ground spin them then put power in and the breaks should work properly As for the emergency breakaway when the plug comes out that will apply breaks for safety I hope this helps you P.s. since the trailer has been damaged check for pinched wires or bare wires that can cause back feeding and mess things up

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@thowe7988]

Trailer brakes are activated by electric.If all power is disconnected and brakes are locked,it is mechanical (brakes are probably rusted wheel hub).If brakes are locked only when wiring is connected,then it is electrical.Does truck have a brake adjustment box under dash in can of truck?

[@This1LifeWeLive]

We do have an after market brake device, but it's not currently connected . .

[@johnnathanarakaki7480]

Forgot to mention once you locate that power wire disconnect that wire and hook up your trailer and plug in your trailer and see if it unlocks the brakes. On the 6 pole trailer connector their is no power wire I think. Double check to see.

[@sodbuster518able]

That looked like a adapter plug on trl pigtail, trl plug looked to be a 6 pin round pins, the round pins look like a 5 pt star shape with 6th center pin.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Correct!

[@sodbuster518able]

Suzanne i looked up the standard 7 pin plug wiring diagram and this is what i found. Looking into outlet on truck end starting LH lower terminal is Ground White wire.going clockwise LH turn yellow. Tail Running lights Brown. 12 volts constant power Red. RH Turn green. Trailer Brakes Blue. Your brake lights power thru the LH AND RH turn signal wires at the same time.The center pin is for backup lights. All circuits need to be powered up in order to test power out of outlet. Turn on parking lights,4 way hazards, have helper activate trl brake controller, brake pedal for brake light test and key on engine off put gear shifter in reverse to check backup lights.

[@irock2021]

If you disconnect the trailer brake controller the wires going to it you should have turn lights brake lights exc but no brakes on the trailer that way you can get it from point a to point b without the brakes locking up on you but still have lights

[@johnnathanarakaki7480]

Oh on your trailer adapter that center portion is meant to be like that. Because it's adapting a 6 pole to a 7 way RV pin.

[@roymoon1]

Measure at the truck plug. One pin should have 12 volts when the truck headlights are on. One should have 12 v when the truck brakes are applied. One should flash 12v when the left turn signal is on. One should flash when the right turn is on. One should be truck frame ground.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I will check!

[@calvinh.8882]

That battery is bad, but it doesn't do anything unless that cable is pulled out, and then it locks the brakes on the trailer. The little black box that the cable hooks to is like a breaker, so when the cable pulls the end out of that little box it makes a connection inside and locks the brakes. That kind of wiring issue can be a headache, It could be the plug on the truck or the plug on the trailer. I had wiring issues with my horse trailer, and I just took it to a place that installed trailer hitches, and it took him about 5 minutes to tell me what the problem was. And for $25 he switched a few wires and I was on my way. lol.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that! 😃

[@mitchp350]

The battery on the trailer is there to provide power for the brakes, in the event the trailer breaks away. When this occurs the cable pulls the pin out of the breakaway, and activates power to your brakes. Sometimes the pin will come lose causing the brakes to lock up. you can pull the pin out of the breakaway switch, and reinsert it. With the key off in the truck, and no lights on, there should be no power to the plugin. The little plug to the side is for a small trailer, with no brakes just lights. The tube you seen under truck is for a crank to be inserted to lower the spare tire. Do a search on Google for a picture of the plugin like yours, it will list what every pin is for. My best guess as to your problem is the truck harness has been modified to someone else's trailer, that was not wired the same as standard trailers.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Excellent suggestions! And I think that makes sense about the battery being a back-up for powering the brakes in an emergency :)

[@mitchp350]

@@This1LifeWeLive After reading what I had wrote, I guess I should have made it more clear. The problem, 90% of the time is either the trailer plug has been modified, or the truck harness has been modified, either way they do not have to be to the standard wiring, but must match each other. It is just good sense to wire them both to the standard wiring. All new vehicles with trailer plugins are wired to a standard, nothing worse than lending a trailer to someone, with an older truck, getting it back only to find he has hacked into harness to match his truck, instead of making his truck the same as the standard trailer wiring.

[@jerrymont2595]

I don't ever receive timely notification of your uploads Suzanne? What a strange phenomenon ?

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Hmm, this one was set to release at 8:30 EST. I know sometimes on Live videos I don't get notified until an hour later. Strange how that happens . . .

[@kenreynolds398]

The blue wire on the truck is for your trailer brakes the Breakaway battery needs to be replaced needs hold 12 volts

[@BillKnu]

You find the emergency brake power that slams on the trailer brakes when the cable that pulls cable turns away if yor trairler gets loose from the truck. That very low voltage at the breakaway battery says to that the barrey is dead. Go to toutuber and find one of the many DMMs for the many things it isnused (DigitalMultiMeter). Hot tells me you have one or many wires in the trailer wireing is shorted out>

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@Deereman1935]

The first thing I would do is pull the trailer plug apart and put on the 7 blade rv plug like your truck has and do away with the adapter, as I am willing to bet that is what the problem is. The 6 round pin plugs are generally wired different than the 7 blade rv. Your red lead on the multi meter was plugged in the ohms which is for checking resistance, plug it in the other spot which is for checking voltage and recheck the e-brake battery, if it doesn't show 12v it is most likely junk and needs to be replaced. The center blade on the truck is for reverse lights on the trailer. I'm sure you will get it figured out.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@Deereman1935]

You're welcome.

[@davidwestervelt6050]

I was thinking about this. On my trailer i have voltage that runs to charge the battery in the trailer. when i wasn t sure of the trailer. I would hook it to a truck that i knew was right. It sounds like the brakes and charging voltage could be crossed. I recently had to rewire the trailer 2 yrs ago. On the rear of my ford my 8 pin is marked. In the 8 pin there is a ground as i remember. So when you use the meter set to 20 dcV. This is because the voltage of the truck is 12 vdc. Think of a battery Black - / or ground. so in short the Chassis of the truck is ground. So when you touch the pos lead to Pos of battery you get 12vdc. So in short when troubleshooting the voltage will fluctuate from 0 to 12 volts. when brake peddle pushed should have 12vdc. When you let off brakes should be 0vdc. At least this you can determine the truck ok. Now the ohms settings this is for testing shorts or opens. Basically you can find pinched wires to ground AKA the chassis. The lower the reading on OHMS close to a short. IF meter basically reads 0. Yep it bad. This is how i found mine. There is alot more to troubleshooting with the ohms setting. I would set to highest setting. Then short leads and you should read 0. If you work the trailer in a way that you know what is working. It will be easier to troubleshoot. Sounds like it coming from the truck. Voltage can stray from another circuit If lights are on. But should be east enough to tell. I tried to make this short. I think it enough you will have some great ideas going forward. Also someone could have made the original pug for the trailer to their truck. Start basic and work forward. Split the truck and trailer and test both. It a big cookie lol. Have fun hope helps you in the future.

[@tcrowell7321]

the battery will only apply brakes when the break away is pulled and the battery needs to be charged or replaced . you can test the brakes by pulling the cable and pulling the black plastic peace out, have some one by the wheels to hear the magnets grab then just push the plastic peace back in to turn them off again.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I will have to test that :)

[@gatorred157]

The 4 thing the bottom ground the 3 covered ones- one tail light other 2 are turn singles the round ones are 6 or seven i did buy a new camper it all works even brakes the new brake control worked i need car rust fixed before my first camping trip to the lake! you pull the wire the brakes set on! the battery dead! get a wiring diagram for round plug! it power wire on

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@BigBear-qr4zn]

That pipe lowers your tire but you have to use the bar for your jack

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Ahh, ok!

[@bseeds9318]

the battery is to put electric in the wire only if the brake away cable is pulled to apply electric to the brakes to stop the trailer

[@evankibbe590]

You need to take the red leed out of the om jack and put it in the volt jack little girl. That's why your getting weird numbers or readings .i bet the trailer plug is wired wrong. That little plug is the ones I use. They probably have the brakes on the axillary pole which is the middle one and the axillary in the stop pole . A lot of people do that. On the inside of the little pluge each pole is marked with letters and a arrow to the pole it is referencing. This is where knowing the color code comes in. And there is a little screw holding it together. It is easy to lose that screw i know because I have lost many of them. I use a magnetic to hold that screw now . Feel free to ask any questions you may have . Okay 😊☺

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that! 😃

[@sodbuster518able]

Common wire colors ,yellow is Lh turn signal, Green Rh turn signal, brown is marker tail light, red usually brake light, white is ground, blue is auxiliary circuit

[@stevenwalls7215]

I can tell you the blue wire in the round plug is the brake power wire, I had to redo my pops old truck wiring cause ever who had it before made it look like a bird nest

[@sodbuster518able]

Have a helper in drivers seat and test the pins on out let of truck for all your functions with a test light or your multi meter.they all should read 12 volts when function. Do yor basic brake ,lh rh turn signal, marker lights

[@This1LifeWeLive]

That's a good idea :D

[@naamanbrubaker1993]

You have the right adapter. Just take it apart and there should only be two wires you can change. Switch them around.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

That sounds like an easy test :D

[@bradhayworth2926]

You need to test each of the connectors on the truck to see what they do. One should be for tail lights, brake lights, turn signals, etc. One should also be brake power. The brake power pin should only power up when you step on the brakes. If there is no pin that powers up when you step on the brakes, the connector is wired wrong. The pin with constant power may be for charging a trailer battery, or may be wired wrong. Once you find the brake pin, you will need to make sure that it is connecting to the proper pin on the trailer to send power to the brakes. Pin #2 in the schematic in the link below is the one you are concerned with. If it only comes on when you press the brakes, that is working fine. If that's the case, the problem may be the trailer wiring. The breakaway adapter only supplies 12 volt power from the small battery to the trailer brakes when the cable is pulled. If the battery is dead, it will not activate the trailer brakes.

[@bradhayworth2926]

Link to the schematic for the truck. www.google.com/search?q=7+pin+connector+schematic&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=9hfAQShrmS6GEM%253A%252CD3ua1T57ZgzM2M%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kRzI78NSLPIEU-iTKTe2OFbTW16LQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwif46Gtoo3iAhVBneAKHTtZALUQ9QEwBnoECAcQEA#imgrc=9hfAQShrmS6GEM:

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I could probably test with a light :)

[@evankibbe590]

That pipe thing is to help slide the jack handle through so you can let the spare tire down.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Ahh, ok!

[@stevedoe1286]

Some older trailers had a 6 wire and newer ones have 7 wires. You would need a wiring chart to know which wires go to what. If testing the brakes or lights you would need them on. Then the testing of the trailer brakes would need to be on. Testing using a good ground best to be at the frame and make sure it goes to steel not on the paint. Could be other problems in the brakes why they do not release. The wire in the front of the trailer is a break away, So if it comes off the truck the breaks should stop the trailer. The battery did look bad. I have not seen a tester like yours not sure it's the correct setting.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@scottmccullough978]

They make 2 different adapters so you need to becareful when you have to buy another one. Center pin brake or side pin brake..

[@jeffgootjes8418]

Yeah. You’ve got the wrong adapter on the trailer lead.

[@dhoop688]

Replace the break away battery thanks for the shout out Suzy. Say hey to Eric for me

[@guido2110]

The brakeway cable is on the trailer ,you need a test light to its easier but you got push brake petal down to get power , looks to me ya ,?? It is not wired right your center prong on truck is should be power to brakes ,your feeding power to the brakes on the wrong wire ,find out for sure witch wire on truck plug is power to brakes an match the plugs wires ,its easy to do , hard to tell you how .

[@mikegoodman447]

Sent good info to your community site. Leave the trailer and Break Away stuff alone for now, it has nothing to do with your problem. Once the truck wiring is correct you can move on to the trailer wiring. Go step by step or you will end up in with a big mess. I see your trailer does not use the center pin. You might want to use it at a later time to run trailer over head lights and accessories. The top right terminal should not be hot so you do have truck wiring issues that's running lights. Hey that pipe thing is used to lower your spare tire. Insert special tire tool in pipe and turn to lower tire down.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Oh, ha! I would have never guessed it was to lower the tire! I had been looking at a few wiring diagrams and some use the center pin to run reverse/backup lights. It SEEMED like at one point the truck DID run the inside lights . . . but I didn't pay much attention to wiring stuff last year :(

[@brittfarms2018]

Pipe thing is the spare tire crank down

[@johnrupke9248]

If the break away cable on the trailer is pulled out of its box t the brakes will lock up

[@GarnettM]

2 different styles of trailer connections,, Easiest test is just put your flashers on first set the tester on 20v. With the key only on it'll have a number about 12.6 this is a good battery with the engine running it'll say 13.7 to 14.6 But using the flashers it say the signals, brake, stop, curcuit is working they all run on the same power curcuit. PUT THE BLACK onto the exposed post this is Negative,Turn on flashers Then touch the upper holes these say signal current both should flash then shut off flashers turn on park lights touch the same holes the lights will be dimmer but both will be on, Shutoff lights then try just signals they should flash separately. Most cases the big Blue wire is the brake supply from the truck, White is ground yellow and green are signal wires brown is park lights /headlights this will be the hole just above the exposed post middle one .Might have a power touching the brake supply wire, The little hairpin looking signia top center of the tester is OHM tester this works using NO POWER it tests for broken strands in wires or power crossing that wire that's supposed to be dead if you get No numbers when touching both ends it's broken if you get numbers it'll say how good the wire is if it's a new wire All the wires should say the same number when testing for good wires a weak number is corroded or only have a few strands.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@GarnettM]

@@This1LifeWeLive Was gonna ask how often are you going to haul your horses in the trailer ,Does it really need them airbags on the hitch them are for fatigue on the horses legs on long hauls ,If not going all that far that`ll lower the hitch to fit the truck .

[@This1LifeWeLive]

@@GarnettM we had considered that as well :)

[@showcattle07]

Ditch the adapter and the smaller aluminum plug. Wire in a proper 7 way RV plug. The problem is probably the adapter. The six way aluminum plug can be wired 2 different ways, and with the wrong adapter power is being sent directly to the brakes.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@MrBogeyone]

Figuring out wiring on trailers isn't easy unless you have a diagram (installation guide) for that particular system. As a rule, the brake wire for the connector is a constant 12v to the controller inside the truck and there is a signal wire from the brake light switch inside the truck to the controller. There is a ground also. I believe the constant 12v is a blue wire. Anything in a vehicle that has a ground, the ground wire is black. Any wire that is RED is 12v, any wire that is black is ground. Solid color wires such as yellow, brown, green on the rear are tail lights, left and right signals. On that trailer the ground probably is white. If the truck has daytime driving lights the most probable cause of the brake problem is that the brakes are hooked to a tail light wire (or headlight). Have him disconnect whatever wire he found unhooked and check the brakes. Check for an installation guide on the internet if you know the brand of system you have. The "break away cable" only activates the brakes in the event you lose the trailer from the truck. That little battery locks the trailer brakes. I certified in electronics back in 1980 and did installs for a GM dealer. I specialized in fuel injection and computer command systems back then. Lots to be said about the importance of a wiring diagram and installation sheets. That rear "plug" should be available from places like Advanced Auto Parts, so if you can't figure the wiring out I suggest buying a new one and a service manual for that truck. You need one anyway for future repairs to just about everything on it and they are reasonable in price. Good luck. If I were close I would fix it for you but I am on the gulf coast (150 miles from Panama City)

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Ohh, that's an idea I hadn't considered! I do have a few wiring diagrams I can use to trace everything (both truck and trailer). I don't think the truck has daytime running lights, but I always have my lights ON, so in theory it IS possible they might be triggering the brakes . . . I'll have to run some tests :)

[@sodbuster518able]

That pipe you saw is where your spare tire winch tool engages

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks!

[@corbettknowles9942]

That is a 6 6 pin round plug or at least one I can see in the videonow if I had looked at the truck right I have to go back and look at video again if you had a 7 pin on my truck that could be your problem also and that it's wired wrongand that are definitely lead you down a road of Chase and wires you need to make sure it's your truck has the same amount of pins on the connector as your trailer and that they are wired the same as your trailer or you will be chasing wires for days trying to figure it out

[@gordbaker896]

Now have to scroll past 40 vids to reach comments. Constant interruption on monitor when people reply. Idiots at Google/You Tube.

[@clintonemmert5184]

Farm girl, your on you-tub. You can look any thing up on it. lol🚜🚜🚜🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I had looked stuff up last year, but it can be hard when you don't know where to start :(

[@evankibbe590]

That cable if pulled will activate the brakes

[@gungadinn]

Suzanne, I didn't wait for the end of the video, but the break-away box is on the trailer in close proximity to the Goose neck hitch. The tube is the tube that goes to the spare turn winch. The jack handle goes into the tube to crank the tire up and down. The wiring under the truck is partially suspect, especially the corroded flat 4 pin connector. That should be cut off and taped over to keep from getting further corrosion inside the wires. The Ford has the flat 4 pin connector in the wiring harness even if equipped with the factory trailer package. I use the same Hopkins 7 blade /4 flat connector. They work well. As for the multimeter, turn the switch to ohms first, then connect one test lead to whatever you think might be metal, and scratch a spot on the frame clean, and touch the other test lead. If the multimeter reads 0.01 or lower, you've got metal. Keep one lead in place, as it's going to act as your ground. Now turn the meter dial to VDC or volts in the scale of 20 volts. Turn the truck running lights on, and then probe the blade on the trailer plug at 11 o'clock until you see voltage. That will be your running lights. Turn the lights off. For the turn signals, turn the ignition to the accessory position, turn the left turn signal on, and check the trailer connector blade at the 9 o'clock position which is the left turn signal. Now turn the right turn signal on and check the blade at the 3 o'clock position, the right turn signal. Start the truck and check the trailer connector again, you'll have power at the 1 o'clock which is an auxiliary connector and the trailer brake signal blade is the connector at 5 o'clock, but should only have power when the brake pedal is depressed and the brake controller is turned on. No center pin means that the trailer doesn't have reverse lights. That's what the center pin powers. Replace the break-away battery and check the power connection on the truck plug at the 1 o'clock position for power, as the trailer might be pulling power from that blade to keep the battery charged.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks for your help :D

[@grosseileracingteam]

You need a new battery for the breakaway switch. The breakaway cable is tethered to the truck.It closes the switch and fully applies the trailer brakes if the trailer comes unhooked from the truck when moving.You can test the truck trailer output plug with a 12 volt test light-key on,headlights and hazard flashers on.Get rid of the adapter on the trailer and wire it to match the truck. Here's the diagram for the truck-TEST WITH LIGHT TO VERIFY! video in this link www.ajtnt.com/7-way-rv-plug-diagram/

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks! I'll check that out!

[@corbettknowles9942]

Okay on trailer brakes with a brake controller of course you got it yeah wire that runs your parking lights or trailer lights runs off the parking light circuitand you got your left and right turn signal wires then you got a ground and you to turn signal wires also work the brake light portion of your trailer brakes it's just that grounded at a different spot and the power brakes have a wire that runs that was when you apply pressure to the brakes IT supplies power on that wire to engaged the trailer brakes without knowing your setup what kind of trailer brakes you have I'll just give you a common one which is magnetic trailer brakes on your trailer you have a count in a magnet and when it it's applied voltage the magnet grabs account which allows you to stop if you have too much game set on your trailer brake controller it will cause your trailer brakes to lock up that's one situation now if you have a wireless intermittently supplying power to brakes it will cause your trailer brakes to engage because your brakes should only get power when you press the brake pedal it goes to the brake controller and back to your power brakes not as far as color coding on your wiring there's a million different configuration so I can't help you on that but in order to set up your meter you need to have it on DC volts or you can use a standard test light DC I hope that was helpful

[@charlesjob7483]

My guess is that if the brakes go on when you’re driving, it could be a ground problem with the trailer.

[@randyhughes5160]

That is not set if you unplug the trailer and it released it’s good the wire is if the trailer gets disconnected it sets the brakes locks them up the 4 wire is for a small trailer like a boat the 6 pin each pin is a wire turn signals brake lights the in the truck is a box to control how hard you set the trailer brakes the cone peace under the truck is how you lower the spare tire hope this helps

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I would have never guess that was for the tire!

[@randyhughes5160]

WT Farm Girl Videos and the nut end of the jack Handle goes in not the spade for the jack

[@tiredoldmechanic1791]

Here is a website with the correct wiring diagram for that plug but you can't always count on the trailer being wired that way. www.ajtnt.com/7-way-rv-plug-diagram/ You had power on the terminal that is supposed to be for constant power. That should feed the interior lights on the trailer as well as charge the battery you removed. The battery is to supply power to the brakes if the trailer is disconnected from the truck and pulls on the cable. No battery power = no brakes without the truck connected so that battery isn't your problem. You will see on the diagram that the brake power should be on the bottom right terminal on the truck plug when the brake pedal is pushed. When the pedal is released, the power should be at o volts. Plug in your trailer, see if the interior lights work and check the right turn and left turn lights and tail lights. The center post on those plugs are for back up lights, which many trailers don't have. As others have said, rust on the brake drums can cause the brakes to stay on without any power being applied. Backing up will usually release them. Here is a website that shows the electric brakes. www.hitchweb.com/blog/post/2013/01/07/how-electric-brakes-work

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I guess I'll have to have Erik help me . . . or maybe my daughter :D

[@mikeskidmore6754]

When it comes to wiring there is the Right Way the Wrong Way and the WT Farm Girl Way .. Most of my Trucks have air brakes.. I have some funky adaptors To adapt from 7 Pin Round "Air Brakes" To "7 Pin Flat" Electric brakes. The hardest problem to solve is when some one else Jerry rigged the system and you don't know what they did .. A Simple test light could be handy to .. Voltage or no voltage.. a 12 volt battery should test at least 12.8 volts .. You can try to charge your emergency battery but remember small batteries don't last very many years if you don't store them fully charged.. When a battery is low the lead plates are exposed and they corrode.. Electrons of a fully charged battery some how protect it from Oxidation.. I have many battery tender chargers to keep batteries fully charged when not being used normally .. Plus all your modern cars have computers that constantly drain the battery when not in use.

[@yanceylindley5172]

Brake actuator's ☺

[@bryanleslie4513]

That top hole is for ground.

[@jerrymont2595]

That battery only showed a bit more than a half of 1 volt. That battery needs replacing if it can't be charged. A half volt is a far cry from 12 volts? The wiring is a ball of confusion looking at it in parts and various angles. Lol.

[@jerrymont2595]

Also, that multimeter needs batteries and an upgrade. At times those type of multimeters will tell you everything but the truth, especially if the battery's voltage isn't near proper voltage output.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I couldn't even see where the batteries went IN, lol

[@dorindajenkins7825]

👋😀

[@mikegoodman447]

Suggest deleting or blurring out your tag #

[@dewainwoodard4840]

You definitely have the wrong adapter my buddy had the same problem

[@dewainwoodard4840]

He changed the hole plug out on trailer to what he needed for his truck

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks, I'll look into that!

[@dewainwoodard4840]

@@This1LifeWeLive your welcome

[@arnoldromppai5395]

Sue your battery needs charging, it will charge from the truck if the plug is wired right, but if someone was messing under the hood or with the trailer plug it may be wired wrong on the trailer,, the plug on the truck is ome, so unless a wire broke and was hooked up wrong, the 2 black wires on the plug on the truck are strait from battery, the smaller wire is battery charge the bigger black wire is acc battery power for say your winch, a back up trailer light,, anything you want the truck to power over the charge wire, i can email you a wireing hook up for truck an trailer, nothing works on the 4 flat pin plug unless you put your park lights on, or a turn signal, but the 7 pin you always have 2 hots all the time, as for the trailer e brake that cable has to pull that black plastic pin out and as long as your trailer battery is 12 volts the brakes lock on,, thats a very smal AH battery, it should be a 7.6 AH BATTERY WITCH IS LONGER AN FITS TIGHT IN THAT CASE. if your brakes are locking up most likly someone wire the trailer plug end wrong to battery power, you also can not have your 4 way flashers on at any time the trailer is hooked up, as that will pylse the trailer brakes on an off with each flash, i can email you the wireing hook up standards.. pick up a 7 way RV plug tester and a 4 flat tester, they are cheap, i have in stock, the 7 way is like 10 bucks an the 4 is 6,, id send them to you but by the time it got to you, b to late.... your battery has 6 volts so it is just low, but it is to small, needs minimum 7 AH, a low or dead battery wiill not put your brakes on, and the pin is not pulled on the brake away switch..how ever water and salt get in them and they dont work, you test it by hacing a good charged battery hook to truck every 6 months, drive a head, wheels turn, pull the plastic pin out. drive forward, wheels will turn a little then stop wheels tight if batery and e brack switch is ok.. now just one set of wheels may stop and trailers only need 50% braking, so if you have only 2 tires, all 2 should stop, if you have 6 tires only 4 need to stop, you have 4 tires so 2 tires need to stop, but the mfg may have put brakes on all 4 wheels, you hade the tires off and i think there were drums on all 4 but was there wires going to all 4? blue wire is always brakes, that stuff on the back of the truck 7 pinx4 is factory fits ford and new dodge, again i have the color code wire set up drawing i can e u,, but iknow you to well you know what you are doing and i am playing along. oh why there is 2 hot battery wire is the battery charge wire hooks to an isolator boxs(20 amp fuse) so you dont kill the truck battery if it is left hooked to the truck and you are say camping, the other hot wire is fused at the battery so you always have 12 volts to hook up anything you want to run with out truck tunning, use last2 images at bottom of page, you already have this.. www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx the center pin says back up lights, but it has power all the time key on or off you would need to spick in a dash switch if used for back up.. it the heavyset wire so it is used for any accy

[@donaldsimpson3481]

At .64 the battery is dead as a doornail

[@markb.1259]

Suzanne... when you don't know how to do something... do what the rest of us do... Search KZbin & Google!!! 1- How to use a digital multimeter, 2- Wiring diagram for a 7-pin trailer connector... :-)

[@This1LifeWeLive]

I usually do if I'm at my computer, but my internet is slow by the barn :(

[@bikerchic7938]

The answer to your issue is found in the video titled "Turbo Encabulator" the Original

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks I'll have to look at that!

[@This1LifeWeLive]

ummmmmm........ lol

[@mikeholubek4419]

7 pin flats, looking @ truck; 1 o'clock = 12v pos. 3 o'clock = r/h stop/turn 5 o'clock = Electric Brakes 7 o'clock = Ground 9 o'clock = L/H Stop/Turn 11 o'clock= Running lights.

[@mikeholubek4419]

P.S. Center pin = back up lights

[@mikeholubek4419]

DVOM was set to detect voltage, Correct. Numbers are not what should be showing. It should be batt voltage when on, eg: run lights on 12 o'clock shows bat volts.

[@This1LifeWeLive]

Thanks for the breakdown :D

[@cassiuspuckett8789]

First and foremost you need a new battery for the brake away. It needs 12.5 to 13.5 before your brakes will work properly.