Some of my choices for the B550 PC partpicker video were sub-optimal.

[@ebsmith1102]

Time Stamp 0:48 SSD 4:50 CPU Coolers 6:30 Lack of Exhaust Fan 8:00 PCPartPicker wattage selector insanity 10:00 PSU 13:44 Good 400W PSU Vs Bad 550W PSU 17:15 Stops you from making weird choices 19:20 Buy a new PSU if upgrading in the future 22:00 Secondhand Parts Safety 24:00 Chuck the case 24:58 No PSU recommendation right now 27:11 What to do with the old video

[@exenemy3216]

A 30' video to correct a 40' video, Buildzoid gonna buildzoid lol

[@chadmckean9026]

Thanks you for defending your position on the PSU,people just do not seem to understand how efficient modern hardware is, we are not using GTX 480s in SLI these days

[@ole7736]

"Cases cost money and make your system hotter." - Buildzoid, 2020 :D

[@everythingfeline7367]

He's not wrong

[@ole7736]

@Ignatius David Partogi Cases are for people who get a lot of visitors (who are not nerds like us). ;)

[@deafno]

You need a case to protect your home from fire from electrical sparks, either from accidents or part failure.

[@conza1989]

GN were looking at doing power supply reviews, so that would be great if that comes up one day

[@Verpal]

Honestly the only SSD that I will actively avoid is DRAMLESS QLC SSD, even those Intel QLC is good enough. However, for a boot drive, usually I will pick an SSD with at least DDR3 cache, and reasonable endurance rating.

[@NightSyndicate]

I used them in old sata 2 spec PC'S for a upgrade. Otherwise, nope.

[@MisterRorschach90]

Most good drives use ddr4 cache don’t they

[@floorgang420]

When StoreMI 2.0 is out. I guess pairing pcie 4.0 ssd with huge QLC ssd will have the best benefit.

[@Verpal]

@@MisterRorschach90 Yeah, only budget drive use DDR3, but DDR3 drive can still provide reasonable buffer and performance, provided that the controller isn't too dumb.

[@fmskaisergsaw5567]

honestly i believe "budged" high end are basicly: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/ADATA XPG Gammix S11 Pro and the HP EX950. Evo 970 plus? pfff whatever, im happy with my SX8200 Pro.

[@marceldiezasch6192]

Professional Journalists: spewing reputation damaging bullshit 24/7, only releasing corrections when forced by court. Buildzoid: releases immediate correction for a purchasing advice video.

[@_Thunderball_]

On PSU choice as someone who builds commercially: - PSUs are not designed to work at max rated output 24/7, they have the best efficiency in 50-70% output range so plan for that. So if you make a build that will pull 250W in normal operation plan for 500W PSU. - How to figure out how much it's gonna pull. In this video it's kinda shown. Look for benchmarks testing your usecase for CPU and GPU (100+170W) in this case, take 40W for periphery on a mainstream system, 70W on HEDT (X570 counts here), in case you have a lot of RGB and/or additional HDDs account for that too. - Gold rating is not a must but it's a good indication that the unit uses good components, even if the platform is not the best.

[@RAW_Reality]

Simple calculation: Your expected wattage use + 33.25% = Get the PSU rated above this number. Example: -------------- Expected use: 315w 315+33.25%=~420w Get the 450, possibly the 500, and you're done (unless you plan on making future upgrades that'll draw more power, in which case assume that increase now, if you don't feel like buying a new PSU for your new calculation then...). (For reference, this % will put you @ ~66% of Dmitry's commented curve, and is repeatable with any "expected" power usage.)

[@d3nso_]

Well this may be truth in the past but current PSUs which aren't bottom of the barrel don't loose much efficency on the upper end. You loose 2-4% efficency if you go above 80% output.

[@nathangamble125]

@@d3nso_ That's true, but it's still not ideal. Consider that 2-4% efficiency loss doesn't just make a PSU 2-4% worse - even if it's a gold-rated PSU it would have around 90% efficiency at 50% load, and you'd be putting out 72% more heat by going to 80% load with 88% efficiency (because the proportion of power lost to heat is 20% higher, and you're also putting 60% more power through the PSU). This is still better than what you'd get at the same power load from most 80+ bronze PSUs rated for higher wattage, but it's not a huge difference.

[@Vegemeister1]

Most of the time, a desktop computer is very nearly idle. In normal operation, power consumption is ~50 W.

[@obeliskt1024]

8:23 B: Where did it go? Cooler: upHere

[@jh-12358]

People are idiots when it comes to psu's. Especially given that you get peak efficiency in the middle of usage. All these people out there with a 2600 saying they need an 800 watt psu

[@RamtheCowy]

honestly. im broke AF and building a 3200g iGP system and this dude started going off on me about not getting a 80+ gold rated 500+w PSU like... sir... this won't even draw more than 150w or so at peak even overclocked and will probably sit at like 30-50w for most of its life, do you really think a) I would allocate a third of my budget for a PSU b) the efficiency of even a 80+ gold 500w PSU at 30w load is going to be any good? it's throwing away money like a fool

[@earthtaurus5515]

@Ram the Cowy If you want to go cheaper than Bronze 80+ there are just 80+ rated and also... 80+ White. Yes, I'm not joking there is rating called 80+ White Efficiency ROFL! This is an example, not a recommendation: smile.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0600-K3/dp/B01127D0MY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3R881KI3TVVT&dchild=1&keywords=80%2B+psu&qid=1593469109&sprefix=80%2B+%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-2

[@gabrielecarbone8235]

And gaming is not usually peaking CPU power

[@CaptainShiny5000]

Good call on Crucial SSDs in general. Usually very reliable, fast enough and pretty competetive price/performance.

[@joefowble]

Thank you for the follow-up. Folks learn more from the discussion than they do from the original recommendation, as frustrating as that could be.

[@xMostFuriousx]

Just as the video started and he started talking i was like what happened ? He doesnt sound right and then he said he hasnt slept.. Just go to sleep man... you did your part and people can either take it or leave it. Yes some points were correct but nothing worth loosing sleep over.

[@albundy7718]

An alternative for the SSD would be the cheap Kingston A2000 NVMe PCIe SSD 1TB, its not very fast (around 2000 MB/s) but uses TLC Flash.

[@MafiaboysWorld]

I used the 240Gb version as a boot drive for a 3400G, runs sweet. 👌

[@rogerlong8493]

Kingston would probably make the a2000 into QLC someday, they have already done this to a400!

[@Cmr2333]

I like DRAMless SSDs for only one thing: As a Game storage drive. It’s faster than an HDD no matter how you slice it, and I don’t really care about writes in that use case since I’m not performing that many writes. In real world usage, you can’t really tell the difference between DRAM and DRAMless SSDs in scenarios like game loading. For OS duty (boot drive), you want a DRAM cached SSD for sure since there’s a lot of random read and writes going on, but for bulk storage where you want read speeds faster than HDD and writes aren’t all that important DRAMless SSDs are fine.

[@yarchieduke]

Well put

[@maxzhang8863]

"your computer is a giant space heater." I love that

[@IsentropeMachzahl]

As someone with a passive case, I can confirm

[@mscheese000]

@@IsentropeMachzahl It doesn't matter whether your case is active or passive or any other factor of your cooling system. Power in equals heat out.

[@dmitc01]

I'm partially responsible for the cooler going out of stock. While watching your previous video I paused it to go order the cooler since the 3600x that's in my nieces new build ran too hot when I was doing stress testing. It was an excellent recommending and I thank you for it.

[@Sunlight91]

For the operating system get an SSD with DRAM cache. Most random writes are on this drive including save files. For storing large files files like games that simply need high read speed DRAMLESS is fine.

[@TheOpenfield]

Though good TLC NVMe s (like SN550s) perform fine as boot drives even without DRAM. Everything else should be avoided.

[@af-s]

@@TheOpenfield I just bought a sn550 as a main drive, so OS and games. All reviews said it was good enough for the normal person, I don't deal with large files, don't do video editing. Also never had a SSD so I probably wouldn't mind the slow speeds even if I saturated the small amount of cache it actually has.

[@aliefr2984]

@@af-s even if the cache is saturated, it will be the same speed of sata ssd so it not that bad

[@tarfeef_4268]

Yeah I've tried to buy second hand motherboards twice. Once it was part of a bundle on eBay. Everything came so disgustingly coated in pet hair, smoke, etc. Had to bathe them for days and scrub for hours. Motherboard had hair and bent pins, had to get the gun to refund that. After that I needed a new board. Also had 1 weekend (for context it was z97 and I think z270 was the current gen). After the usual second hand market users being asshats, found a guy with a z97s Krait sli edition. Went over. And it wouldn't boot. Turns out he had bent pins. Spent like an hour doing pin surgery on it, revived enough to get pair of memory slots working again. Thankfully he was nice and discounted it, but still, those were not 2 good experiences.

[@tonkatoytruck]

Your a good man BZ. I like that you read our comments and take them to heart. Did not mean to create more work for you though buddy. All the same, good job. A lot of people take your recommendations as gospel, including me. A big thank you for being the best technical pc hardware site on KZbin. P.S. TechPowerUp has a good review of the P1. /review/crucial-p1-nvme-m-2-ssd-1-tb/ Like most hardware, if you don't cool it properly, it will throttle. I would think you would really find this tech cool. Its a lot like memory. Just a few mfgs of controllers and memory. Just a bit more goes into execution.

[@johnperish]

My question, Why get a B550 board if you wouldnt plan on swapping out the CPU for a 4000 series processor at some point?

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

good point though you could just upgrade to a 4000 series 65W CPU

[@WayStedYou]

I got the mx500 for a friends laptop because the bx500 was more expensive for some reason... its massive overkill for their usecase but it's worked really well for a few years now.

[@Hotrob_J]

Vega 56s and 64s just got dirt cheap here on Canada if you're willing to risk a very lightly used card that has definitely never been used for mining :p

[@Derael]

I think 650W is a good PSU wattage for 99% of consumer systems. It achieves highest efficiency around 330W, which is what most not overclocked systems get, and no matter how hard you overclock, it will stay within optimal limits. It's also not too big for budget systems, and you have enough headroom in case of upgrade. Overall I think 500W is a bare minimum for gaming systems (maybe even 550 if you are overclocking hard), for office work 400W will suffice. I've got myself Deepcool DQ-650M for a good price, and happy with it so far. As for SSD, I think it might be worth looking for a really good but inexpensive NVME drive, since PS5 is right around the corner, and for some games it might be useful. ADATA SX8200 Pro is a pretty great deal, even outperforming Samsung in many consumer tasks, but 1Tb version is a little too expensive. 500 GB on the other hand is quite reasonable in terms of price, on par with good 500 GB SATA SSDs. For graphic cards in this price range I'd suggest getting a used one, it's a much more cost effective option. RX 580 can we found around 100$, and it's perfectly capable of 1080p 60Hz gaming. Just make sure that the seller is somewhat reliable and lets you test it. Most reliable way in my experience is to buy it from people with good reputation on overclocking forums, or from someone you know personally who decided to upgrade recently. And I honestly doubt you need anything but the stock cooler for 3600x.

[@fenixmining]

I'd go with the SN550 for the SSD. It's DRAM less but has an SRAM cache and uses newer NAND flash. The result is a surprisingly good drive that sells for $120 on Amazon. It's probably the best value NVMe drive right now. For the power supply I'd go with the Seasonic Focus GX-550. It's the successor to the Focus Plus. AFAIK they've worked out the issues with the Focus Plus line. Excellent performance, 10 year warranty, fully modular. $100 on Amazon. Costs a good bit more than the choice in the video but a PSU is something you can carry over from build to build. No reason to buy twice if you can get it right the first time.

[@sethtrosity]

I usually refer to the SSD Spreadsheet provided by u/NewMaxx on reddit.

[@yarchieduke]

A man of culture I see!!!

[@Vireca]

You cant say that and dont provide the link :P

[@yarchieduke]

@@Vireca www.reddit.com/r/NewMaxx/comments/dhvrdm/ssd_guides_resources/

[@GuRuGeorge03]

a good reaer exhaust like a arctic p12 pwm is literally 5€ in europe. dunno why anyone would complain abuot a missing fan :D

[@darchandarchan7036]

you mentioned older games, and it will be nice to know what games you enjoy playing

[@fidamdsaini8452]

Ah, a man of culture I see, Milftoria for the win.

[@vollhorst140]

Firestrike extreme

[@CarbonPanther]

Need for Speed World is one of the games he's actively playing.

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

Planetside 2, Need For Speed World, Minecraft + mods

[@DeSpanni]

There is a review of the Pure Power 11 500 Watt on ComputerBase where they tested OCP www.computerbase.de/2019-03/80plus-gold-netzteil-test/3/#abschnitt_schutzschaltungen 12V2 should behave the same on the 400 Watt Model, as they are both rated for 20A on that Rail. For 12V1, I´d expect OCP to trigger at ~40A on the 400 Watt Model

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

Yeah I saw a review for some other be quiet PSU that had insanely high per rail OCP and so I figured there'd be no concerns with transients on the 400W.

[@michalsipocz5138]

the no-brand cooler is out of stock because you know who recommended it

[@pabloescobar7214]

who?

[@mentis4046]

be quiet is actually pretty good. 400 Watts should be enough. More watts is only the way to go if its semi-passive. I did that to avoid the cooler noises.

[@yarchieduke]

CV 650 seems like a decent choice for power supply

[@nighthawkvc25a]

30:12 "Man, I feel like a snowman in the summer" ⛄

[@Veserius]

In regards to cases, the Coolermaster NR400($65) and MB311($60) are in the same price area and are much nicer matx cases.

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

I actually like that the Focus G doesn't have glass.

[@nicmonberg5974]

It's a shame you don't do this for UK market as well. PSU are a mind field I tend to always look at RMA and warranty. I would like to see you try out some parts from China and different budget coolers.

[@harislade6676]

Snowman cooler with 2 fans then take one off and fit to rear of case .

[@eugkra33]

Team L5 is also good SSD option from what I know. DRAM cache, and cheap with TLC NAND, but not m2. Unless they've changed the deign. Sometimes they'll remove the cache after all the reviews are out.

[@philipstrobel3390]

Was running a 3600 x570 with vega 64 on 400W Powersupply when i had issues I exchanged the powersupply - guess what it wassend the PSU but just the gigabyte vega 64 being unstable...

[@wotwot6868]

The case helps with the fan noise. Not important, just minor, but still is a factor.

[@jolness1]

Love your content dude! I am trying to learn more about VRMs (specifically on server boards) How can I actually tell how the phases are set up etc? My google fu is failing me for finding information about this and you are quite knowledgable and I am hoping you can point me to some good resources.

[@kelvinyonger8885]

If you have access to the board you can look at the chips (ID the voltage controller & powerstages or mosfets), and infer a likely phase config. You can also look at drivers if discrete MOSFETs are used. Finally, if there is and I2C or SPI interface you can communicate with the controller directly.

[@kelvinyonger8885]

You can also ask the manufacturer.

[@82bahamut]

Hi All, got a question. I noticed MSI B550 gaming carbon, edge, tomahawk audio codec is ALC1200. Aorus Pro B550 (non M) has ALC1220. Is it worth the additonal $?

[@kelvinyonger8885]

NO. output stuff (audiophile speakers/headphones) matters much more the DAC chips until you get to pretty decent stuff.

[@Aiml3ssG33ks]

Your channel is called actual hardcore overclocking. It's safe to assume people who check out your videos will attempt to overclock the CPU or GPU or both. Just saying having a better psu with more wattage might help with that. Your right though as is this is a perfectly adequate gaming rig if you're not worried about overclocking or an upgrade path

[@DSDSDS1235]

BZ, one additional problem that a 400w power supply may have is that when you're using over half the wattage the thing becomes really loud. Had that problem with my antec 450w power supply as well as my silverstone sf450.

[@MrSeon123]

That's.... Not how it works at all. How loud a PSU is at a certain load depends on the PSU model in question, not on the wattage. The Pure Power 11 500W (closest thing with actual reviews) spins its fan at 1040 RPM at 400W load, at 43°C ambient. That's fine. E.g. the EVGA G3 1000W, on the other hand, spins its fan at 1565 RPM at 100W load, at 38°C ambient. Which is _louder_, at a lower wattage, with a 1000W PSU. Both of these are according to testing by Cybenetics

[@DSDSDS1235]

@@MrSeon123 Yes, but it is an accurate generalization that the fan spins up as the load increases. Low end psu's, low end fans in them. Additionally, if you grab something with a fanstop mode under low load, that is even less noise. Be quiet in particular is pretty good at its name sake, which helps.

[@MrSeon123]

@@DSDSDS1235 Why make a generalisation if you can get actual data? Also, Be Quiet PSUs are not really particularly quiet. E.g. the Straight Power 11 850W (Gold) spins its fan at 1782 RPM at 765W load. Meanwhile, the Corsair RM750x 2018 spins it's fan at 1310 RPM at 825W. So again, why make generalisations instead of looking at actual data?

[@ankitnegi9713]

which motherboard to buy for 3300x ? msi b450's out of stock, only gigabyte, asus and asrock are available. price of b450 aorus pro and b550m aorus pro is same. other are overpriced.

[@paulomarques1795]

I miss power supply reviews

[@earthtaurus5515]

Tech Power Up is the best place to go for PSU reviews.

[@gaav87]

CPU - 100W + GPU 200W + DDR4 (1.4V oc 2x6=12W) MB 35W + SSD 8W + MB/KB 9W + FANS 7W + USB 10W = 381W.

[@anthonyc417]

In PCPartPicker there is a cache slider. Slide it up a tick bam every SSD with dram.

[@tarfeef_4268]

Tried that before but last time I tried it at least, it didn't have all the metadata, so it ruled out some stuff that did have cache. Perhaps it's better now tho. Hopefully

[@anthonyc417]

@@tarfeef_4268 It's a little jank but it gets the junk drives out of the way so you can find a cheap boi. The 1tb MX500 is the cheapest per gig one out there from what I've found. The TeamGroup GX2 1tb doesn't have cache from what I've read as well.

[@nathangamble125]

@@anthonyc417 However the TCSunbow X3 is the second-cheapest drive on the list and in fact _does_ have DRAM cache, even if the metadata doesn't show it.

[@JhanSolo332]

I use the P1 in my daily system. It will slow down and get a bit hot if you're doing large writes or file transfers ( normally around 100-200gb+). Still a great daily ssd (Edit) should preference that is a 1tb version, so smaller capacities will perform worse.

[@anthonyc417]

Always get the added coverage if you are buying a mobo or GPU. I didn't with a B450 and 2080 Super and almost got boned but Micro Center is amazing.

[@dronshi]

I think there's a spreadsheet of PSU reviews where the makers of the PSU tier list based their list from. Anyway, I really like the Corsair CV series. They seem to be good for budget builds and as go as low as $40 for the 450-watt version in my country. Not sure why it's lower than the price on Corsair's website though. We probably have a factory of Corsair nearby that I didn't know.

[@borealeone]

The urge to sleep simply OOZES from this video >.

[@QuimChaos]

Picking up cheap/compatible RAM for Ryzen always messes me up... The kit F4-3600C19D-16GVRB is absent from the AMD Ryzen-Compatible memory list and in the G.SKILL site the KIT QVL list has no mention of AMD boards (B550/450 X570/470). Motherboard manufacturers RAM QVL/Compatibility lists are even worse... How do you guys choose RAM? Choose anything 3200/3600 and pray it works?

[@hasanm3707]

Hello buildzoid, just saw your video about the gigabyte b550 ITX MOBO for GN. You said it was an overkill for a 3600, and the only cheaper option is the $130 Asrock B550m-itx/ac which in your first impression video you said you didn't like. My question is, given that the gigabyte is overkill for a 3600, is the Asrock MOBO a better buy for an ITX and 3600? A simple yes/no would suffice, but I'd like to know in detail.

[@GiaNebieridze]

Is b550m aorus pro safe for 3700x video/3D rendering? like all night 3d render for vrm temps? or msi b550 gaming plus or b550 A-pro?

[@tommihommi1]

DRAMless and QLC SSDs should be avoided if you can afford it. Both can be HDD speed or slower in certain circumstances.

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

MX500 it is

[@Pegaroo_]

Under what circumstances do they go that slow? Genuinely curious, I want to know if they are something that happen daily (unbearable) or only happen now and again (something you could live with)

[@CharcharoExplorer]

There is nothing wrong with QLC SSDs especially when they have SLC cache / DRAM cache. Being slower than an HDD in somethign no normal user will ever witness is irrelevant.

[@CharcharoExplorer]

@@Pegaroo_ The only way a QLC SSD with SLC/RAM cache will be slower is if it completely saturates its RAM/SLC cache. So basically if it is transfering hundreds of gigabytes of data continuously it will eventually become slow (until it stops and the caches clean up). For normal uses, it will not happen at all.

[@tommihommi1]

@@Pegaroo_ when a QLC disk is getting filled up, there's no more cells left over to be used as SLC cache, so the speed drastically drops to speeds slower than hard drives. Depending on the disk size, this happens at 80-90% utilization. QLC disks are cheaper, but you pay for that by being able to use less of the space effectively, which means in the end you're better off getting a TLC one. They have the same problem of getting slower as they fill up, but nowhere near as extreme.

[@williamlau7179]

By installing an exhaust fan at the back of casing, monitor the components temp, if lower temp, it means the exhaust fan is helping. If not, that fan is not contributing cooling effect. Note that the tests should be done at same ambient temp.

[@qanderson]

If the p300a was still $60ish (from when it was announced at that one convention by Phanteks), it would be a better option versus Focus G.

[@SirReptitious]

Buildzoid: Man I feel like a snowman in summer. Me: I've lived in Florida my whole life, where summer is 6-8 months of the year. Yesterday it was 98F, today it's supposed to be 97F. And we have atrocious humidity. Welcome to my hell!

[@orionagappe8567]

Repeated heat stroke explains the brain damage that can cause Florida Man.

[@elsasslotharingen7507]

What's that in real units of measurement?

[@JGMeador444]

@@elsasslotharingen7507 About 309-310K

[@elsasslotharingen7507]

@@JGMeador444 That's better, thank you kind sir

[@boban250]

On topic of PSUs, have you checked the PSU tier list on ltt forum? The pure power 11 belongs in the B+ category (with gold color saying it is one of the best units in tier), I personally have the 500W version. The tier list includes reasoning which features decide the tier, could come in handy.

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

yeah I've checked the list but I don't like the fact that I can't get proper performance graphs for a lot of new PSUs.

[@mrohaan837]

Hi Big fan of you! I am gonna make ryzen 3 3100 build! But i am confused which B550 motherboard should I get? Can you help me how to choose best budget Option motherboard? And what's your reviews on B550 gaming plus? Aorus pro is very good but out of my budget! Help will be appreciated! Thank you!

[@SoulBladeM]

I'm sorry if it's an obvious choice but why the 5600XT for the GPU? For example, why not 1660 Super?

[@misoman]

I have to respectfully disagree with the psu...it’s pretty well established that the best efficiency is at the top of the bell curve, which is roughly half of the rated draw. For example, a psu at 400w would be most efficient at ~200. If I am wrong, please correct me.

[@nathangamble125]

This is correct, but in the end the efficiency of a 600W bronze-rated PSU would be about the same as a gold-rated 400W PSU on a load of around 300W. I think you could go either way, and should base your decision on the reliability of the PSU.

[@Flynn....]

Where i live the power supplys are super cheap a Seasonic S12iii 650 costs 50 euro's or 56 dollars

[@e-jayng6786]

Your PC part picker explanations are even more rigorous than my Ph.D. thesis defence.

[@tsvetanbliznakov7694]

your computer is a giant space heater - YAS! I don't need air conditioner during winter !

[@MIK33EY]

Hi BZ, Thanks for your rambling posts - I’ve yet to be bored. Just wanted to ask some advice. I’m new to PC building, so still learning and you’ve helped me heaps. Is there any disadvantage to running 2 x 8GB + 2 x 16GB RAM that have the same timings & CL16, 3600Mhz, with a Ryzen 7 3700? I’ve read very different answers so far, and thought I’d ask an expert. I’ve come from Mac, and they like like as much as you can feed them. Thanks in advance for your help.

[@seby9123]

He’s made a video about this exact situation. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIS5Y5-vms51hc0

[@2lazy2think91]

7:25 Case recommendation

[@marktackman2886]

LOL snowman in summer comment at the end was funny.

[@nathangamble125]

For the SSD you could have gone for the cheap TCSunbow X3 SATA drive. Somewhat surprisingly for their price, these actually have DRAM cache, and seem to be TLC rather than QLC (though sources are hard to find - but even if it is, QLC, it's good value compared to its competitors either way). Based on benchmarks it seems to be very similar to the MX500 but cheaper.

[@anonymous_coward]

About what whole cases make your system run hotter thing. Don't cases make VRM thermals better? Especially when the side panel is NOT a stupid piece of glass and instead can be used for air intake.

[@materialburst983]

my 2600 + b450 + GTX 1660 Super + ssd + hdd + $50 CM liquid cooler + 3 fans doesnt even use 300w, lol. All stock ofc.

[@Hotrob_J]

Honestly for the price difference, with ssd's I say go with an adata sx8200 pro or a Silicon Power p34a80. They're damn near as fast as a 970 evo, and only a few bucks more than the cheap qlc or sata drives.

[@louisburley1597]

Would love a roundup on your top five best b550 boards!

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

coming soon to gamers nexus

[@clansome]

Would it be rude to say I caught your sleep vibes a quite early and took some zzz's for you Buildzoid. Sorry.

[@BeamMonsterZeus]

Third time commenting this: Middle Mouse Button automatically opens a link in new tab. You can also MMB a tab to close it instead of using the 'x' on the tab. Also, CTRL+Shift+T reopens a tab you just closed on Chrome. You complained about specifically that in a recent video, I think.

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

I don't like using the scroll wheel to click things. I've already seen the comments about reopening tabs.

[@BeamMonsterZeus]

@@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking If you have a mouse with side/thumb buttons, you could just remap the thumb button to MMB.

[@af-s]

CTRL + M1 also opens a link in a new tab

[@Millzie-wf1ql]

Why not a fast 120GB SSD for boot drive and a slower 1TB SSD for storage drive?

[@nathangamble125]

It's hard to find fast drives with capacities that small at reasonable prices. Cheap low-capacity NVMe drives are typically not much faster than good SATA drives, and get slowed down during long writes due to their low cache capacity. It would likely be cheaper and give you the same overall performance (without the hassle of having to manage your file locations) to just buy a slightly better drive with a large capacity, and slightly better drives are often not any more expensive than cheap DRAM-less QLC drives. That extremely cheap 1TB Tcsunbow X3 drive has DRAM cache, and I'm fairly sure it's TLC as well, as it performs almost identically to the MX500 in benchmarks and reviews. I would never buy an SSD with less than 240GB capacity, unless it was for a boot drive on an ultra-low-budget build with a secondary HDD.

[@MTBScotland]

used to run a gammax 400 on my overclocekd 1700 @ 1.325v without any problems.

[@deshan79]

But I need to dedicate 400w to RGB alone.😆

[@tomasantecky9968]

Speaking about MX500... It has a strange firmware behavior. From time to time it sets "Currently unreadable (pending) sectors" to 1 and after some time back to 0. It is OK if an user do not known what SMART is, but no so great when you put it into a server and receive several emails per day. Just Google: "MX500 Currently unreadable". Anyway thank for your content and stay awesome :)

[@SirReptitious]

I recently bought a 2TB MX500 so I will have to watch for that. No problems so far. I have two 2TB Micron 1100 SSDs which are the OEM version of the MX300, and they have worked perfectly since I bought them about 2 years ago.

[@ThomasCash]

8:13 "Like the CPU cooler doesn't pull 10 watts. like...no it doesn't". LoL

[@eurocrusader1724]

7:00 And here's me putting 200 dollars worth of noctua fans in my system to make sure its cooled well.....

[@krazybonnie5523]

my go to ssd is the HP Ex950 and the adata one that is effective the same, the controller is decent has good speeds

[@nurolkurt]

Hi what do you think about the asrock b550 mini itx it has a good vrms on paper but can that handle 3950x with o.c ?

[@RAW_Reality]

If you're not stuffing it into a mITX case that's suffocating airflow and removing 97% of all adequate cooling options from the realm of possibility, then yeah, it'll survive. Otherwise you're building a volcano and expecting the VRMs to save you.

[@nathangamble125]

He briefly reviewed it in his ASRock B550 overview. The heat-sink is garbage. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6rKg3l4mrWBqac

[@Ganimoth]

Corsair CV is basically their cheap ass VS line slightly upgraded to get bronze rating, also it still uses group regulated topology, which is not really that great to have these days. Good for cheap office pc and such. As for seasonic S12III line, its a kinda downgrade compared to previous S12II.. its still not a proper dc-dc psu, it uses worse caps than the venerable old S12II psu, which are obsolete in many ways, but at least had some very good components, so they were historically realiable units. Also protections on S12III are still very lackluster. There are much worse psus though. And for those cooler master units, big nope, these are shit

[@MrSeon123]

The CV 650W is completely different from the lower wattage ones. DC-DC regulated, so it's fine. The S12 III is dual mag amp, so it's still independently regulated, even if it's not DC-DC. Some of the 30 billion different Cooler Master Masterwatt PSUs are decent.

[@Ganimoth]

good points, thanks

[@yarchieduke]

Agreed the cv650 is a good option for the price in this current market.

[@IMrPrince93]

So how can i make my caseless build?

[@nathangamble125]

get PC parts (sans case). put PC parts together.

[@ArchesBro]

As far as I understand the wraith prism cooler on the 3700X is actually very good. Only slightly worse than well-known branded coolers. I think the 3600X has a similar cooler but it doesnt have fancy light?

[@Derael]

It is indeed perfectly capable of sustaining good temperatures on overclocked 3700X, so no reason to get a custom cooler. Even wraith stealth cooler is fine for processors it usually comes with unless you are pursuing highest clock possible.

[@nathangamble125]

The 3600X has the wraith spire, which is better than the stealth, but still significantly worse than the prism (no heat-pipes, far fewer fins).

[@andrewbowles1939]

My suggestion, wait till you have all or most of of the components are available..... There are more b550 mobo listed in Australia! More expensive but available.

[@razorgcy]

Crucial BX500 doesn't have a DRAM cache. Samsung 860 QVO models are 15-20£ more than Crucial and they have DRAM cache. I'd rather pay the slight price premium for a better sustained performance tbh, even in a budget build Edit: OMG I just wrote this comment before i watched the video and the first thing you mention is that haha. Sorry for bugging you ;D

[@nathangamble125]

I'd rather buy the cheap TCSunbow X3, because it costs even less than the BX500, but actually has DRAM cache anyway (it seems to be virtually identical to the MX500, but with different branding).

[@thaleshenrique9580]

Hello guys I'm looking for the motherboard asus Z390 maximus xi apex, if anyone knows where to find it to buy let me know here

[@GabbyTech]

Interesting list will share

[@biobreaker5009]

don't worry about ssds. they can't be hardcore overclocked anywayz

[@salehamini2036]

23:30 I'm just here to watch your videos. Also about nvme ssds like p1 they normally heat up and throttles and depends on ssd they drops to like 100-200mb/s write, good ones usually stay in 700 to 1500mb/s which can easily be solved with a fan on top of ssd, this way they can keep writing till there is no space at 3200 mb/s. About rear fan people can just buy one of those very cheap fans (usually they are 3-5 usd) and puts them on 900rpm, they are fine and do their jobs also they will be silence at that rpm. PS: Have a nice sleep.

[@tommihommi1]

Arctic P12 or P14 fans are 5 usd a pop and beat many fans that are 2x to 3x as expensive

[@nathangamble125]

How good are M.2 heatsinks at preventing thermal throttling?

[@lucasvieira1805]

wd black sn750 500gb. Is good?

[@earthtaurus5515]

@Lucas Vieira - Scan, a UK retailer have an okish comparison of that NVME. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2SVh5yGmpiJoqc . It was £79.99 in the UK awhile ago, not sure how much that translates to in your region.

[@niccadoodles]

This is me after researching parts for hours.

[@zZzabi]

please build 3060ti or 3070 budget build next, thanks.

[@shamimarch]

Need MSI B450 tomahawk max PCB break down

[@OMGJL]

I absolutely hate QLC SSD in every way, before they are half price as the TLC SSD.

[@MrFeretier]

It's an excellent build considering the price, i wish i live in the US for that matter, i'm upgrading my computer at the moment, with the same CPU and GPU and i'm around 750€ for MB,CPU,GPU, RAM. Still i'm confuse about the choice of RAM, i've watched your previous video where you explain why choising a 3600mhz CL19 Ram over a 3200mhz CL16 when the Ryzen 5 3600 can only handle up to 3200mhz RAM, and i don't get it... I don't and will not overclock so i'm lost here, is it really worth the price ( around 100 euros in my country) ? Nice videos, nice content even if sometimes you're talking way too fast for me to understand at first ;)

[@AugustoBotossi]

Could you please make one of those videos for the 10600K? I am thinking on a build for it.😅

[@sutyomatic]

P300A is a bit cheaper and probably the better option also a bit cheaper atm.

[@SirReptitious]

@@lawliot Only if you buy expensive ones! If you buy non-LED, sleeve bearing fans, especially in a multi-pack like Coolermaster sells they can be pretty damn cheap. They don't last as long as fluid bearing fans, but they still last many years. And I can usually buy 2 or 3 of these "cheap" fans for the cost of one expensive one.

[@nathangamble125]

@@lawliot "Case fans are expensive AF." What are you on about? You can get arctic PWM fans for about $5, or even less per-fan in a large pack. You can get really good noctua fans for not much more than double that.