Sonnax Vacuum Testing 4L60E Valve Body PT1 - Bad Valve Body!

[@joveesmallwood9693]

Great video and explanation with understand of components and tool. More info you give the better those will learn. Thank you.

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, joveesmallwood! Appreciate the kind words and viewership.

[@douglash3129]

Man Nick, you went to the max on this video, Thanks alot buddy!

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, Doug! Appreciate the compliments as always😀

[@Roscotech]

Hi Nick, I have been working with my vacuum test equipment and am focusing now on the reverse abuse valve/plug and the Low/Overrun valve that is above it. On two separate cable bodies now I have low vacuum readings on the entire line up. I have tried a couple of different ways already. First replacing the end plugs just behind the abuse valve/spring and secondly the Sonnax abuse valve “kit” that has a redesigned valve, a new spring, and a new end plug. I have only achieved slight improvement with these two methods. Sooooo Sonnax also has oversized parts for both which of course require two different reamers and the use of the VB-Fix apparatus. I wanted to know what you thought about this. I did squirt a bit of trans fluid in the abuse bore just ahead of where the testing is taking place and I do get a jump in vacuum but it’s only temporary and when I do that I can actually hear the leak as it sucks the fluid past the valve and bore. I have ordered most of the parts and tools bc I do build the 4L60’s often. I only hope it’s not a waste of time and money. I don’t think Sonnax would bother with making them if that was so. My main goal is of course 3/4 longevity. I value your opinion too.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Ross, if you do a lot of 4L60Es the Sonnax reamers and fixture set up are worth it as you'll find yourself using them relatively frequently. There's also the drop in stuff which, as you've seen, doesn't always get the job done given the amount of wear that may be present.

[@محمدعليوي-ض3ج]

Another great video. Thank you so much for sharing this information. I wish for you a good day ❤❤❤❤❤

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, man! Appreciate the views and kind words. Please share my channel amongst your friends and associates there in Iraq. Perhaps it can help others with their transmission questions.

[@محمدعليوي-ض3ج]

@@nickstransmissions thank you so much. I will do. And again you a so kind person God bless you

[@nickstransmissions]

You as well, sir.

[@wilburnmiller1851]

Another great video , thanks

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you, Wilburn.

[@ozzy8449]

Mr Nick, wanted to ask if you’ve used the sonnax 77964-04K sequence/relay valve replacement? This part number uses the reamer without the fixture. My bore specs were all around 13-14” of vacuum within the three inner bores and the outer was fixed with new end plugs. I was wondering if the new snx part has an oversized 4-3 sequence valve or if it’s stock sized. The other snx part number for this repair is oversized all the way in but I’d have to buy the reamer($350) and fixture($250) . Thanks for any advice.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Ozzy, I haven't actually used either version as of yet; in fact I'm not sure either...I'll call Sonnax on Monday to get some clarification as a quick G-search only shows their instructions for the oversized version that requires the reamer set and fixture to install. Are you having issues upshifting from 3rd to 4th gear or falling out of 4th?

[@ozzy8449]

@@nickstransmissions thanks for your reply. My 4l60e started slipping in drive so I decided to do a hd rebuild and bought the sonnax vacuum tester. out of all the bores that’s the one with the lowest vacuum. It’s a 2001 suburban I bought not running. Installed a low mileage 5.3 and it ran for about a month then just started slipping.

[@nickstransmissions]

Gotcha, that sucks but glad you bought the tester...It's def worth having as it allows you to pinpoint wear in those things vs just guessing and throwing parts at it. I've been slammed today so won't be able to talk to Sonnax until tomorrow (they may be closed as of now or open another hour if you want to call them).

[@rogerjuliandiaz9587]

Hey Nick thank you so much. I have a question I blew my trans 2008 Chevy Silverado. I had another 4l60E that I was rebuilding. I believe it was an 06, Green conector. So when I started my rebuild I pulled the blown 08 trans body and it’s a trans model of a 09 and up without the IMS, just the manual lever. I literally swapped everything out of the 08 into the rebuild including the pump. My 08 valve body looks exactly like the rebuilt one (06) So why would I have a 2009 and up trans with the internals of a 06-08. I’m having shifting issues and the only thing I can think of is the spacer plate that I didn’t reuse because it’s bonded. So I currently have the spacer plate of an 06 and didn’t notice the hole that you mentioned. So what do you recommend?

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Roger, thanks for watching... Why didn't you simply rebuild the 2006 using all of the case parts that were already installed?

[@rogerjuliandiaz9587]

Right now I’m running the rebuilt one the 06 with the internals of an 08. Again the only thing I didn’t replace after watching your video is the 08 spacer plate and 08 valve body. Because the Valve Body was identical.

[@nickstransmissions]

What specific problems are you having with it? ETA - the 96-06 spacer plates are different than the 2007-2008 model year units. The internal case components aren't materially different if putting a 2008 guts into a 2006 case but you need to put the 2006 plate and 2001-2006 gasket set onto the 2006 case...More than likely that's the root of the problem... You can check out Transgo's website for a look at their two plates side by side and you'll see some pretty sizable differences between them.

[@rogerjuliandiaz9587]

@@nickstransmissions I’m having shifting issues. I can’t shift into 2-3 without me getting to 3000rpm without me letting off the pedal to engage. I have a scan tool hooked up and can see everything operating but once I get to 2000 rpm, 2-3 solenoid goes from on to off. I couldn’t reuse my 08 case because I damaged the bell housing trying to remove the bolts.

[@nickstransmissions]

Here's a copy/paste from an edit to my reply above, in case you may not have seen it..The 96-06 spacer plates are different than the 2007-2008 model year units. The internal case components aren't materially different if putting a 2008 guts into a 2006 case but you need to put the 2006 plate and 2001-2006 gasket set onto the 2006 case...More than likely that's the root of the problem... You can check out Transgo's website for a look at their two plates side by side and you'll see some pretty sizable differences between them. That said, shift solenoid B (which is what you're referring to when you say '2-3 solenoid') should be coming off to allow you to shift to 3rd gear. Sol A is on in 1st and 4th gear and off in 2nd and 3rd gear. Sol B is on in 1st and 2nd gear and off in 3rd and 4th gear. I'd start with the spacer plate, installing an 06 plate and white-striped VB-plate and plate to case gaskets in place of the orange-striped gasket set. If that doesn't fix the problem, there's either something else wrong with your C3 (communication, command and control) or the 3-4 clutch pack/forward drum. You can drill the damaged bell housing to case bolts in half on the bell housing side to shear them in half and remove the damaged bell...This will allow you to salvage the rest of the transmission (you can always either put another bell on it or simply keep it aside and remove / swap the one on your rebuilt trans if you need to in the future.

[@christ6370]

Great video but maybe you can move the vacuum pump to a different room so it's easier to hear you clearly. 😊

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks for the kind words, Chris! Sorry about the noise, I know it's tough to hear me over that machine but there's no where else to put it at the moment...I may do voice-overs when filming vac-test sessions going forward.

[@timweb1510]

Do you recommend sonnax upgraded parts for a turbo 400 trying to see 700-750 wheel max? Thanks

[@nickstransmissions]

Yes, I'd def install the TH400-LB1 and their case saver mechanism for the intermediate clutch. I'd also consider their billet rollerized forward clutch hub which replaces the factory pot metal piece. That stock part is vulnerable beyond 550-600 HP at 5000+ RPMs.

[@timweb1510]

@@nickstransmissionsheck yes, thank you for the time. I have been recommended other parts in the past but I lost my list 😔

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, Tim. Also add a 4L80E dir drum and 34-element intermediate sprag, Chrysler 727 direct clutch snap ring (.088 and .106 to give yourself clearance adjust options), rollerize rear case. If your turbo 400 is pre-72, you should have a direct drum with a smooth inner sprag race so you can install the 34-element sprag without replacing the drum. Also run 4L80e white one-piece teflon rings on the center support and pump stator. Lastly, dual feed the direct clutch internally.

[@timweb1510]

@@nickstransmissionsthank you sir, just made a new list. Have a good night 👍

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks Tim, you as well.

[@joelbanyai8224]

Nick, don't use the rectangle block with the test plate, there should be blow tips that come with Sonnax kit. Stick the blow tips directly into the test ports. 100x faster than what you're doing in this video. Also, way more than just TCC and AFL circuits wear; The center two end plugs next to the TCC regulator valve wear terribly, the abuse bore plugs if there's more than 150k miles on them, and sometimes the accumulator valve is worn. Those fitzall TCC "valves" lose the ability to pressure regulate the TCC oil, ballooning the TC and wearing the engine's thrust bearing.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Joel, thank you for taking the time to watch and comment...I'm waiting on a reply from Sonnax about the blow tips as none of the test plate kits or the tester itself came with anything resembling that description. But if they exist, I'd definitely want to get my hands on some. All the bores in the VBs wear but, from all the 4L60Es I've done over the years, the TCC and AFL valve are by far the most common, followed by the abuse bore plugs but the purpose of the video was to test everything so that all areas of weakness/wear can be identified and remediated one way or another. I queried a couple trans builder/shop owner friends of mine and they haven't heard anything about Fitzall valves causing converter ballooning and I haven't had one come back for that reason either (I have only been building for 12 years but have been using those valves for about that length of time). If you have a link to the blow tips that you'd be willing to share, I'd greatly appreciate it (I'll order some as soon as I see it) as well as any documented cases of converter ballooning due to the Fitzall valves...If that is a problem with those products, I'll discontinue their use immediately but would eager to see some reports, industry/trade group articles, TSBs (even forum discussions) about the issue.

[@larryschaum6280]

I tried posting the link for Sonnax. Apparently it didn’t post. Vacuum Test Tips Part No. 822304 Package Quantity: 6

[@nickstransmissions]

Great, thanks Larry! I'll order some up...they may have come with the test machine itself but I bought that thing years ago so who knows what happend to them...

[@joebushell2438]

Take those god dam gloves off

[@nickstransmissions]

Never, lol. I have since switched to black gloves...less garish.