Sonoff POWR3 25 Amp Smart Relay Review w/ Tasmota

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

I have an S31 on my freezer and on the dehumidifier in the printer room. Power on state is 1. Working well for several years so far.

[@eduardobodega5886]

Great video. I like how your son enjoys. 👍👍

[@ronm6585]

Thank you Travis. 👍🏻

[@digiblurDIY]

My pleasure!

[@Smitty3572]

FFDP reference. I love it

[@digiblurDIY]

I had that clip from a concert a couple years ago and I knew it would be perfect for this reference!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

12awg will, as you know - by code, have a max breaker size of 20A in the US. It's good that they went with a larger relay & CT than the wire rating though. I had dry rotted insulation kill 2 Shelly 1PMs on an outdoor led flood. Wire would arc to ground when the wind blew just right. 1st Shelly survived it tripping the breaker, once; welded the 2nd time. 2nd unit burned open on a 15A circuit breaker. My head wasn't thinking or I'd have checked the 30yr old wiring on the 1st incident. 🤦🏼🤦🏼🤦🏼🤦🏼🤦🏼 I have a 7A glass fuse and new wire on the circuit now. What's odd is the new Shelly started reporting 30% less power draw about a month ago but I can't tell the light output has diminished. Time to break out the current probe.

[@taylorlightfoot]

Not necessarily. A self-contained listed device can use smaller wire gauges if the insulation is rated for the extra heat and the self contained device undergoes certification. Oven manufacturers do this all the time for models sold in the USA. They will use wire gauges that seem way too small but if you read the manual they explain that it has been UL listed and the insulation value is very high and the electrician needs to follow the sizing guide in the manual to determine breaker size and wiring to the appliance and not mimic the small wire gauge seen on the oven's whip. With that said, Here in North America, you are going to have a difficult time finding a load that uses a 25A breaker AND is single phase 120V, which basically will limit you to 20A using this Sonoff device. This Sonoff device was purpose-built and intended for the Indian market where 25A breakers are common, DIN rail circuit breaker mounting is common, and where the electrical is single phase at 230V. Most likely this was intended to control the HVAC unit for a hotel room with a thermostat or occupancy sensor wired in to control the relay. www.indiamart.com/proddetail/legrand-rx3-25a-single-pole-mcb-15004577262.html

[@finipini]

Very clever the NC relay. I myself had thought a bunch times to take off the relay of some of mine plugs that have to be always on. Althow the 25A, still feel nervous about all my house power pass to that relay, but i notested that it is very easy to make that not pass at all through the relay nor the pcb. If that was esp32 it was a sure buy, with esp8266 i have to think better 😁

[@digiblurDIY]

I wouldn't run an entire house through it myself either as I don't have need to automate shutting down the whole house? Just a CT clamp would be better suited for that.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

Toasters (mine anyway) work for a 600W load. That CT should be good on a 60-100W incandescent if you can find one.

[@digiblurDIY]

I have taken wire and wrapped it around multiple times on a CT clamp to simulate higher draw. Can't do this with this one.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

@@digiblurDIY Sure, just replace the wire temporarily. It's screwed at both ends if memory serves. An 18AWG wrapped a few times to test a small load should work. Been since morning when I watched so I could be responding out of context.

[@jmr]

Nice video! I need to look into this device. Good idea to make your kid do the literal dirty work! I'm sure you really had to twist his arm. 🤣

[@digiblurDIY]

He has been bugging me for a while to do it and of course this one wasn't good enough. I bet someone has shared some designs of injectors on Thingiverse.

[@jmr]

@@digiblurDIY Good idea. I just got my first 3D printer a couple weeks ago so I've done a lot of browsing there.

[@rdosenna]

Just letting everyone know… My FTDI with 3.3V didn’t work to flash. At the last try, I changed to 5V and I worked great. Ps: I know it should be 3.3V, but I was desperate and gave it a try, and it worked great. If anyone is experiencing the same problem.

[@digiblurDIY]

FTDI is known to not have enough power in many cases. Usually those involve an ESP32 which is surprising yours didn't work here on the esp8266. I usually do not recommend the 5V thing as people have fried their chips before with this.

[@rdosenna]

@@digiblurDIY I totally understand and agree. I have flashed 20+ sonoff devices (thanks to you rsrsrs) and all worked great. In this case my FTDI didnt work. I bought a new one and also didint work. Since I only use tasmota, I gave it a try on 5V. I'm glad it worked.

[@DontBelieveWesternMedia]

Hi. How do I know if my Appliance is on or off considering mine is connected to my geyser..? Also considering the WiFi is out of data. What happens when I press the reset button? Does the sonoff switch off? How will I know as the lights do not seem to give an indication

[@GregWoodsLancs]

Still no cable clamp... so the big device still has to be mounted inside an even bigger box with some way to prevent the cables being yanked out

[@GregWoodsLancs]

I can't understand why they added those big beefy cables just to move the connection point a few inches towards the outside edge of the box. A better design (at least one more compatible with the UK) would be to have the installer open the box, attach all 4 wires inside the box to the those beefy connectors near the relay, and then there is room for 2x clamps around the outer insulated cables. And where are the earth connectors? Just because the device doesn't use it, they must still be connected together. At least the POW R2 had connectors for earth. So while I initially liked the look of this device, it still needs a custom enclosure to be safe. Shame

[@digiblurDIY]

Their design was in an electrical din rail cabinet so I understand not having the earth ground as that is handled on a bus bar usually.

[@billkennard4310]

Not soda pop - just Pop !!

[@digiblurDIY]

Ahhh... That's right. It has been shortened in some places.

[@makoesim]

I was using pow 3 with sonoff firmware as a voltage and current sensor in automation to protect appliances from high or too low voltage, the problem was sonofflan integration was works only in cloud and update reading too slow, yesterday i tasmotized pow r3 and integrate it to home assistant with mqtt addon, but instead of solving the problem, it became bigger, readings in home assistant are two slow to update to the extent that it makes it useless

[@digiblurDIY]

Did you use the powerdelta command?

[@Dan0__]

I was thinking about getting the POW R3 for my pool pump. It's 115 volt, 1ph, 12.0/3.1 amp (don't know what 3.1 means). The unit looks substantial. I was wondering what the Tasmota user interface looks like. Does it graph your energy usage... Daily, weekly, monthly? Can you download the data? Schedule On, Off times? Have it automatically turn off at a specific current? Does it actually show amps, volts and watts? Thanks

[@digiblurDIY]

Dual speed pump maybe? If you are looking to graph stuff and keep history, Home Assistant is a good choice for that as Tasmota integrates directly into that.

[@Dan0__]

Yes... Dual speed... Thanks!

[@PeterScargill]

Yup blows the pants off So off Basic but then so does the price. Mine came last week, blogged but not yet Tasmota'd.

[@digiblurDIY]

Huge price difference indeed. I was quite impressed to see the headers staying on between the production unit and the FCC pics unit.

[@Geekydrones]

Its not outside use right. It would be cool to use it for my pool pump.

[@digiblurDIY]

Put it in a weather proof box.

[@mikepeterson443]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the device switches only one phase, so this won't work for switching a US water heater right? The water heater in my house uses 2 phases. I sent Sonoff an email asking if this would work for that purpose, and they said yes. Can someone confirm?

[@digiblurDIY]

Correct this only one relay for one single phase. The US electrical water heater is usually 240v out of the split phase to the home so you have two hots to cut. In this case I would probably go with a contactor that can cut both hot wires.

[@mikepeterson443]

@@digiblurDIY Thanks. I'm guessing in Asia, one relay is all it takes to switch a single phase, 240VAC. Good suggestion on using a contactor. So a 2 pole contactor, 120V coil and a plastic housing to throw both in, I should have a decently priced wifi water heater switch. Actually, if I'm going to use a contactor, I wouldn't need the POWR3 to energize the contactor right? I could just use, say a Sonoff Mini for that purpose?

[@digiblurDIY]

Yes. You would only lack power monitoring at that point. Sonoff Basic works as well. Depending on the type of contactor and it's input requirements.

[@mikepeterson443]

@@digiblurDIY Not sure if the POWR3 would be useful in this case for monitoring the power because the two hots would go directly into the contactor, the POWR3 would be just drawing whatever current it takes to energize the contactor, and not seeing the current drawn by the water heater. Am I wrong?

[@digiblurDIY]

That is correct. Not the product for use on a US water heater.

[@aihysp]

do you know if it will handle a pump startup voltage? my pump is less then 16A but the start off currnent is way more!

[@digiblurDIY]

I would definitely measure it if you can with something or look at the specs on the pumps as they usually show the highest amperage needed.

[@aihysp]

@@digiblurDIY very old... only thing I got his 975 watts on the sticker...

[@digiblurDIY]

what size breaker is it on would be a good key I'd think.

[@aihysp]

@@digiblurDIY yes but i think an MCB breaker is diffrent in terms of start current it can handle more then a simple relay.... but maybe that realy is not that simple... GK-A-1b-5d i was able to get the part number of the video but cannot find allot of data :(

[@Denis-ts1fh]

Добрый день зделайте видос по русский а что не понятно что говарите