Sonos Connect:Amp Repair Part 2

[@solarpenguin737]

Frank - thanks so much for the video! I have a sonos connect:Amp which would power up and would seem to work fine until I played music. Almost immediately after I'd start a song, the sound would cut out and the amp would flash orange and white. Replaced the two MOSFETs you described in the video and now works 100%! The diodes on the other side tested fine so didn't need to replace those. Thanks again for the clear explanations and concise information! Greg

[@DevinRonge]

@fixitfrank also wanted to send thanks, I had an amp flashing orange and white and took it apart and tested the 4 components and only a single one of the mosfets was bad. I replaced both anyway and it fired right up. Thank you very much! Now I just need to figure out how to get those clips back on...

[@FixitFrank]

Yeah those clips are an absolute PIA. Good luck and nice job!!

[@jerryyoung301]

hey frank. did you replace the Mosfets with a cross. The part I have out is a K13A600 and a part I can not seem to Ident. Y10100n / e07ac are the markings on them. These are the parts from the heat sinks that you replaced. Thanks

[@FixitFrank]

Yes , those are N channel 13amp 600v. I think I used 13n60's. I think the other parts are common anode diodes.

[@jerryyoung301]

@@FixitFrank Thanks. Can you tell me where you purchased the Y10100n. I can not find any info of cross for this part. Please help if you can.

[@jerryyoung301]

Great video. Have you come across the problem that the amp will not connect to the Wifi / network and what the problem or fix might be. Thanks

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Jerry, My suspicion is the wifi brain board is not working properly. However repairing that is virtually impossible. There is no way to get parts for these. Sonos wont even entertain the idea of selling parts unfortunately. If you have already tried a hard reset(I think its holding the play button while plugging in power?) that wifi brain board might be the issue. I hope its not and the reset will solve it for you. I hope this helps!

[@certifiedautorepair4580]

Hi, have you experimented on recycled sonos amps on how to by-pass sonos systems and use the amp part by adding rca directly to the board and vice-versa to a working amp getting output rca and connecting to a recycled amp and combining one good signal to two amps...that will do a four speaker system...

[@inhousedesigns6375]

I think this would be a great video. Tons of Bricked Sonos Amps out there, with 100% working hardware.

[@FixitFrank]

I don't know why this comment just showed up in my feed. Its also saying I need to "approve" it which makes no sense. Its a perfectly good comment. To answer you r question, I did look at doing that and the way they built the amp, its not really feasible. I wish it were. It realyl stinks that these are such a pain to repair.

[@andycain4038]

Hi Frank. Great video. I repaired my own unit which turned out to be a damaged bridge rectifier and fuse. After changing them it was all okay. I do have a question though. How did you get the heatsink clips back onto the MOSFETs and the secondary diodes? I have tried and tried and can't do it.

[@FixitFrank]

Thanks!! Honestly it was a HUGE Pain in the "youknowwhat". I used a mix of large needle nose and ring clip pliers. I found that a tiny amount of heatsink paste made it slide easier but it was not fun at all and easily the hardest part. I was able to get them stared on the heatsink, then used the needle nose to hold them from popping off. Then I put the right angle attachment on the ring clip pliers and squeezed to make the clip expand slightly. It was enough to push down with the needlenose gripping the opposite side(just one of the sides of the clip I was gripping). Then I repeated and moved them a millimeter at the time. I ended up partially ruining the spring clip pliers. I re-bent them and they are OK now. If I do it again, I will probably find something metal to shove inside the clip to hold it open to start it sliding down. Then I would pull out the piece holding it open and push it the rest of the way. Fortunately if you tear that silicon sleeve, its not a huge deal. I did not film that part as it was messy and I had to concentrate.

[@andycain4038]

Thanks so much for your reply Frank. I managed to get them back on using a pair of circlip pliers. Thanks for replying and for your help

[@andygarcia9612]

hey, that was cool watching. i have the same sonos amp and same problem with it "no power". do you think if i change the same things on my it will fix it too. or could there be other possibilities other things can cause it not to turn on.

[@FixitFrank]

I'd start here. I've found all sorts of problems with these when I tried to learn to fix all their problems. I found that this sort of repair was the most cost effective for me. Of it's more than this it won't be worth fixing.

[@wallysoesman3659]

very nice explanation. Thanx. I hope I can do it myself. Question: in the first part you replace the fuse...was it really neccesary or only as precoation? thnx wally from a'dam.

[@FixitFrank]

It was required. The main power fuse had failed because of the bad power supply parts. The fuse interrupted the short circuit to prevent further damage or fire.

[@smileywork]

When a fuse is blown we automatically think replacing it, but what made it blow in the first place is my question. I think the video explained that it was diode's and mosfets. I believe if we lookup the mosfet diagram take out the transistor and put the meter in continuity we can find that the diode going either ( NPN or PNP) either of that is having power go through the diode when it is not suppose to be, then we know the mosfet is bad?

[@smileywork]

I have a client who we think one of his speakers is making a cracking noise, and we changed the connect because customer has 5 of them. When we switched it to a nother connect, there was a Crackling noise but then it went away. WE are thinking the connect control has an issue. it gets really hot.. Or maybe its the receiver , maybe one of the outputs is no good. Any thouhts? if its the connect or the receiver?

[@FixitFrank]

That's a lot going on. These Sonos were a double edged sword. When they work they are amazing. When they don't, they are a nightmare. It will be a bit of pain, but I would probably hook up a source right at each amp using the aux in and see what happens(cd player or something with a known good analog output). you are going to need to find this via the process of elimination unfortunately. There are just too many variables to say for sure if its the control or the amp or the receiver. I will say the way these amps work, it would not surprise me if it was just the amp.

[@mattbaum3183]

Hi Frank. Thanks for your video, but my problem is that several diodes (not what you found) seem shorted. These are marked DI6002 and DI6006 with part number V3C P538L and diode DI6003, with part number DH532 ES10. I have NOT been able to find either of these parts in ANY GOOGLE search. I usually deal with Mouser, but have not found these parts (all presumably diodes) anywhere. Can you help??

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Matt, Why don't you email me? I have some scrap amps around that maybe can help you. Email is on the about page about halfway down.

[@gabrielmarquez4814]

Frank I have a Sonos connect amp that has a white light that flashes every 10seconds any idea on what causes this problem and how to fix

[@FixitFrank]

Im sorry. I have hung up my tools on Sonos amps. I ran myself ragged trying to find info and parts. They all seem to fail on the mainboard up top that has the wifi board. The last 4 I looked at had bad RAM chips and bad power supplies on that board and getting parts was virtually impossible. Sonos seems like they went out of their way to make these hard to repair.

[@10trungtran]

Hi Frank, I have a zp100 which flashing white and orange. I measure one of the speaker out has 6v. What do think? I wish I post the zp100 to you but I am in Australia. Thanks

[@FixitFrank]

Sadly I stopped working on these. Finding service info on the brainboard was impossible. 6v on the speaker isn't good. Personally I am kind of annoyed with Sonos. I think they want people to replace and upgrade their gear. If you are handy with a meter see if the main power mosfets are working. The voltages are marked on the board. That said, finding parts is kind of hard. As much as I hate to say it, you may be looking at a new amp.

[@10trungtran]

@@FixitFrank Thank you very much for your quick response.

[@gad63511]

@fixitfrank I have a Sonos zoneplayer (no built-in amp) where the analog stage has failed (digital still works). Do you think it's feasible to try and revive it? Have never worked on audio gear before. Would prefer to keep volume control in the analog domain!

[@patrickruprecht9295]

Hi Frank - I have a connect amp that won't power up. Is this something I could mail to you and see if you can fix? I like your video but my skill sets don't aline to yours so I need help. Thank you.

[@FixitFrank]

Hello Patrick, Something like this can run $110-150 depending on the damage. . If the amp chips it could be in the $200 range. This particular unit was damaged by a power surge. If it's power and amp chips, it's not worth it because of parts cost. If you want to email me, it is listed in the about tab. I'd be able to check it out at no cost. No reason to charge someone to tell them something is toast. What do you know about what happened? Did you have any speakers go bad?

[@7333-e3k]

I've also got one of these on my bench for fixing. It was the main bridge rectifier. I've replace that and it now works, but how on Earth did you get those really stiff heatsink clips back on the TO-220 pairs? I'm really struggling!

[@FixitFrank]

They are an absolute nightmare.. I used a mix of circlip pliers, needle nose and a plethora of cursewords. The circlip pliers did the trick but it was still annoying.

[@7333-e3k]

@@FixitFrank Thanks. I'll give them a go! I look forward to watching your next video in mono vision...

[@joanneallison6524]

What are the parts you had to in . I’m sorry you talked to fast . I had a power surge and all 3 of my sono boxes won’t turn on

[@FixitFrank]

It can vary. Sometimes its both of the mosfets, bridge rectifier, low voltage power regulator, the fuse, the MOVs, and the fuse. If it was a surge from a storm, you may get away with just replacing the fuse, but I would definitely check the MOVs and the bridge rectifier. Full disclosure, I stopped working on these due to lack of service info and ability to find all the right parts. Sonos definitely made these to be replaced instead of repaired. Putting the heat sink clips is a huge pain. I'd recommend a pair of cir-clip pliers for sure.

[@markadamson1241]

hi frank I have a sonos amp that was plug into to 240 volts but for got to change the voltage from 110 volts and doesent work could it be the fuse only . could you please let me know

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Mark, I'm sorry to hear it's not working. I suspect you have lost the fuse but it's possible that is all that's failed. Hope this helps!

[@zambradl5458]

Dimana saya bisa beli diode 3c77m. posisi part-nya di tr k13a60d

[@grzegorzbaginski6619]

Hi I have two amps to repair it is possible to send 2 sonos

[@FixitFrank]

Im sorry, I no longer take these in for repair. The problem is the lack of parts and service info.

[@juanillofnc]

Hi Frank! I have a sonos amp, when i try to play some music i hear noise in the speakers and that’s it. I think the sound Chanels aren’t working. What do you think? Thanks.

[@patrickruprecht9295]

Hi- Just wondering how much you would expect the repair to cost. i have a simulair issue and i'm looking for someone to repair it. Would I be able to mail mine to you and have it repaired?

[@FixitFrank]

Something like this can run $110-150 depending on the damage. This was a power surge problem. If the amp chips it could be in the $200 range. If its power and amp chips, it's not worth it. If you want to email me, it is listed in the about tab. I'd be able to check it out at no cost. No reason to charge someone to tell them something is toast.

[@JMDG3]

Do you have a wiring schematic for your test ballast?

[@FixitFrank]

imgur.com/a/rrPK0fu Here you go! It's nothing special. The goal is to absorb/limit the current that flows through a damaged component by dumping it through a light bulb. If I plug in something with a shorted power supply or any shorted outputs in an amplifier, the bulb will glow brightly. If working normally, the bulb will glow only slightly. The one I used here is only one bulb and I have it mounted to an old power strip as an "all in one" unit. At home I have a few bulbs with a relay setup to select the bulb I want to use.

[@TheRushjunkys]

Hi Frank, I have a ZP100 that is plugged directly into ethernet and stopped playing one day and dropped out of the network. I recycled power and the unit came back on network for a few hours and then dropped out again. Power light is on, but it lost hardwire network connection. Any comments on what to repair? Is that something you can do? TIA.

[@TheRushjunkys]

My Bad, the problem unit was connecting wirelessly. I plugged directly in and so far it has stayed up. Maybe bad WiFi card.

[@jefdoktor1415]

​@@TheRushjunkys Hi there all .... I have 3 x ZP100 ! amp all working top !!! Till - Now I update a “Sonos one” all the 3 amps now crash after playing for a view min... repower and again for a short time ! And I get a mail from Sonos I can upgrade ? Buy the new amp

[@ljnrf]

Thanks for the video, I have a zp100 (slightly different model) with only one speaker output working, I think this means I’m going to want one of those expensive output IC’s, are they even available? Part # anyone?

[@ljnrf]

oh I missed that on part 1 - STA508, $6 on mouser

[@FixitFrank]

I've had mixed results repairing bad channels. Since they started the trade-in program, I have essentially stopped working on them. there is another chip ahead of them that might also be suspect. Check the data sheet fo the STA508. There are pins that will be in specific states if the chip is bad. Also, desoldering and resoldering these is tough. They handle the heat well but you need to really get things hot.

[@jamesburgess9101]

@@FixitFrank hmm - I just read about the brick mode that Sonos puts them in for "recycle" - ugh. I used to be a Sonos fan, this is just the worst though. Feels like the company shifted in their business practices. I do see units on ebay in this brick mode going for cheap, since the brick mode is actually reversible with something done on Sonos' end, I'd bet that it doesn't affect the lower analog board amp/psu. If I lose the other channel I'll experiment with that, for now I can just use the line out as I happen to have an amp in this location.

[@FixitFrank]

@@jamesburgess9101 if you want, email me(its in the about section), I have some scrap units and I think I even have some amp chips no longer needed. It was really sad that they went this way.

[@baron11123]

Do you repair these things? I had it get wet

[@FixitFrank]

How long was it exposed to water and was it totally submerged or just a spill? Corrosion can be pretty damaging. I can repair these but water damage can many times be fatal for electronics. Mostly because even if you fix it, there can be damage that doesn't appear for a while.

[@autodynamics01]

How can I get in touch with you frank ?

[@FixitFrank]

Unfortunately I do not really work on these anymore. I can't get parts or service info to repair much more than what I show in the videos. If it's a computer issue I can't fix it and if its a bad audio problem(crackling or fuzzy) I can't. Basically I can change a fuse a few head end parts for the power supply. I did try and make a real go at it but I was really frustrated at the lack of parts that I could find and really frustrated by the lack of service info available from Sonos. I have an email listed on the about page if you want to get in touch though.

[@autodynamics01]

@@FixitFrank thanks, I tried finding your email on the about page and wasn’t successful. Can you email me possibly ? I believe my network card is prob the issue, does everything right but the last step to connect, says failed even though it’s connection with a LAN, tech support wasn’t helpful… thnx

[@FixitFrank]

You might have to click the capcha thing. imgur.com/6PjOD2x If its the network card you are probably SOL. The lan/wifi brain are all the same module. I have run into this and it ended up being bad RAM chips (I think) on the brain card in the top. I don't think I can help unfortunately. I have no way to get those parts.