SoundTraxx NEW Tsunami2 TSU-PNP8 8 function decoder install in a Kato Dash 9 44CW

[@FishplateFilms]

Another good one George! I have over 20 Kato's on the layout, and have done about 6 so far with LED ditch, head and number boards...it's a job and a half alright..and I have to do it with one eye and no depth perception..LOL. Takes me about 3 x 2hr sessions before I get too stressed out from concentration. !! SO mine will NOT be having step and truck lights..LOL. They do look good though and I find I put mine on the headend of lash ups! Cheers Gregg.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Way to stick with it!

[@alainaarrhodge5413]

Love that the videos are now including step and truck lights!!

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

George likes to light up the model!

[@how_to_hallagon1]

Some day I hope plug n play makes this a thing of the past

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

While I can understand the sentiment, the reality is we would need all manufacturers to agree on a decoder interface standard, and do not deviate from that as they do now. (21P doesn't mean that all 21P decoders will work all features..) So, we need the NMRA and all loco manufacturers to come together and agree on a single standard.. That certainly would make our lives easier knowing we only had to make one decoder format! grin! Thank you for watching!! ~G

[@davidwiezer6708]

So you just need a soldering iron, wire strippers, tweezers, and a Bridgeport Milling Machine?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

To fit all of the speakers he put in there he had to mill it.

[@eXtremeFX2010]

I so love SoundTraxx Videos makes things easy... with the exception of "Milling The Metal Frame" of the locomotive. I do not have milling tools. Please make suggestions how if you are not a metal shop expert with tools. What are some other options or perhaps recommend where we can get the frame milled?🤔 That is the hardest task it seems like especially if you dont have the tools.

[@eXtremeFX2010]

@@goaliegeorge Thank You so much..You guys at SoundTraxx have AMAZING customer service!

[@alainaarrhodge5413]

Thanks George for the great video and I too look forward to seeing a video about milling metal without the machines. THANKS!!

[@TheTrainFreak]

I had to modify an Athearn Blue Box frame one time. I used a dremel hand tool. It took me a while to get it where I wanted but it is an alternative than buying an expensive milling machine.

[@pablohernandez9405]

I took mine to a machine shop

[@eXtremeFX2010]

@@pablohernandez9405 About 2yrs ago I have since purchased a simple belt Sander commonly used for light metal work from Amazon my video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIXRfGere5Kcj7c Cost less than a Dcc card itself... well worth the investment.

[@j.mcq.8418]

I'm having a problem with my install (or maybe programming) of this decoder in an atlas HO emd mp-15dc. The front light is always lit. I did notice from this video that I don't have a wire running from V+ for the HL to the V+ terminal on the rear light like in the wiring diagram shown. Unlike the install here, I only have a front and rear light.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Our support team can help you figure out what is going on: [phone] ext. 22 or [e-mail]

[@KingTrump2024]

I miss the drop-in easy of the KT-1000's for Kato installs.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Thanks for the feedback

[@donaldmoore8920]

Awesome video George

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Thanks

[@steeplecab]

I would like to have seen how you attached the new leads to the motor tabs.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

thanks for the feedback. You can contact our Support Department for more info: [e-mail]

[@NICKSSHOP]

where can I get the wire and the LED lights like you show in the video because I know you talked about in the video but im having a hard time to find them

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Email [e-mail] and George will share his LED sources with you. We sell wire on our website: soundtraxx.com/accessories/installation-accessories/wiring-aids/ultra-flexible-wire/

[@alvarosousalinhadonorte-mo7218]

Once more a great video George! I think I have asked you once George, why don´t you (Soundtraxx) consider to use smd resistors includede in the sound pcb to the lights and functions, insted of those external"fat" resistors? It would be a great help... I think! Cheers. Álvaro

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

There are various resistors used in this model. You can use one size, but there are other lighting options out there and if we pre-regulates all for LED, then other options become unusable or we’d need another board design. A 1/8th or 1/4 watt resistor doesn’t take up much space and is super cheap to buy. On this install, I used 1k for headlight, back light and ditch lights. I used a 3.3k for number boards, truck and step/courtesy lights and a 5.2k for the blue flag light. Yes, we can adjust the brilliance, but using a bigger resistor on the dimmed lights allows me a slightly dimmer range before the light goes out when I adjust the dimming CVs. The 5.2k was chosen on the blue flag light because the LED light is simply too bright!

[@PennCentral99]

Good video, thanks for the detailed information.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

thanks for watching!

[@jorel5412]

Ok but you didn't really show how you installed the lights. You just showed a finished picture. Do you have a step by step light install video?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

For this particular model, we do not have a video of this. We have several install videos some showing more details on lights. Or you can contact our Support Team for help with this: [phone] ext.22 or [e-mail]. Thank you.

[@jorel5412]

I know 4 speakers sound great. But is it ok to just use 2 speakers ? I was just going to put one speaker on each truck tower.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Yes it is ok to use 2 speakers.

[@milepost856]

You Answer some of question , about light kool

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Let us know if you need help with anything else: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support

[@spacecalander]

I always find Kato positive on the bottom tab, if i use top as pos. Unit runs in reverse when dcc controller says fwd.

[@WestCoastRails]

Same....Its a hit and miss...first I wire the track leads, then tin the motor wires, now just put the motor wires in the decoder motor tabs and run the loco....if correct , then solder the wires. If not,,,,then obviously switch the motor leads.

[@72zodiac]

Is there a CV you can change to solve the problem if you ready Soldered the wrong wires to the decoder??

[@christopherbrown5338]

@@72zodiac If you are using a long address (number higher than 127) and using 28/128 speed steps then program CV29 to 35. But if you reset the decoder in the future it will return to running backwards.

[@WestCoastRails]

Thats a good starter video for some viewers, what if someone is using other cell speakers, maybe you could explain how to determine the Positive and Negative terminals on other cell speakers.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

The first place to look for this info would be the manufacturer of the speaker.

[@christopherbrown5338]

A trick I used in my many years doing car audio is use a battery (AA), in this case use a low amp battery such as a coin type battery. You can hold or tape a lead from each side of the battery, then attach one wire to the speaker. Just momentarily tap the other wire to the other speaker input. When you do this, look at the speaker surface from the side. If the surface drops down, you have the incorrect phase. If the speaker pops upwards when you tap your wire, you have the correct phase. Note which wire coming from the battery is the positive side and then you'll know which contact points on the speaker is positive & negative

[@WestCoastRails]

@@christopherbrown5338 ....thats a cool trick for a larger diaphragm speaker. I would think this would be a bit difficult with a cell speaker?? I'll try it though.

[@christopherbrown5338]

@@WestCoastRails Yes, you are correct. This is a time where some magnification will come in handy. Even a light finger pressure will work

[@TheTrainFreak]

What size LED's are you using for your trucks, step, walkway, and numberboards?

[@ShazzledWolf32]

My circuit board is dcc compatible I need to know which decoder I need

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

We will need more information on your model to help you with this. Please contact our Support Team for more help: [phone] ext. 22 or [e-mail] You may find your model on our Decoder Selector: soundtraxx.com/reference/decoder-selector

[@dptrpt]

What is the advantage of 4 speakers? Which brand/type/ohm speaker were they?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Better sound, you will get a lot more of the deeper bass tones with these. They are SoundTraxx Mini Cube Speakers: soundtraxx.com/accessories/speakers/oval-speakers/mini-cube-oval-speaker-baffle/

[@dptrpt]

SoundTraxx awesome thank you. I also meant to ask why brand of flux? I like that smalll tip applicator

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@dptrpt There is not just one brand of Flux that will work. Just make sure it is an electronics grade flux. You can get a good flux from Digikey. Search Chipquik flux syringe. I believe it’s about $12. The stuff we use is a bit more expensive and flows clear. Here’s the stuff George uses at home: @t It’s about $12 per ‘syringe’ The stuff we have here is Alpha OM-338. You can search online or here’s a link to a random website: @t Because it’s an industrial use flux, most of the links want you to contact them for quotes.

[@ricter591]

Thanks George

[@nicklorusso1024]

So do you still need to use separate resistors or are these boards LED friendly?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Resistors are necessary

[@nicklorusso1024]

SoundTraxx when are we going to see LED friendly boards?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@nicklorusso1024 Unfortunately that is not as simple as it sounds. Not everyone uses the same value. Example I use 1000 (1k) ohm for headlight and ditch lights, but for number board or step lights I use 3.3k. For the blue flag light in the cab I used a 5.7k. That way, I can control the light effect brilliance more based on the purpose of the light. And we’ve had installers complain about the pre-regulated values for LED boards (previous generation TSU-BW1000, KT1000, IM1000) because they were too bright/dim. LEDs are easier to use a resistor with than the 1.5v bulbs. Variations in track voltage are not as potentially damaging to LEDs as the 1.5v bulbs are. I hope this helps.

[@frankhellman6879]

That's a whole lot of wires, but worth it.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

It sure is!

[@farmerdave7965]

But does that decoder support railcom ?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

No. Railcom is not NMRA DCC compliant.

[@mikemunts344]

George, That was an interesting tool you applied the flux with. What is it?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

The flux we use comes in a syringe for easy application.

[@jasonbarringer584]

You did not install a current keeper, is that because you can't get it into the receptacle and get the wires past the body shell?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

No, I chose not to install one because after cleaning up the wheels and the axle/wiper contacts, a CurrentKeeper was not necessary. There is plenty of room to install a CurrentKeeper and the wires. If you want to install a CurrentKeeper, you can!

[@jasonbarringer584]

@@SoundtraxxDCC I have 9 of these here along with 2 SD80mac's and unless you cut the connector off of the Current Keeper and solder it to the board you are not going to get that connector on the side of the TSU-PNP to clear. I have installed a TSU-PNP into my Kato C44-9W only to remove it and go with the TSU-2200 so that I can mount the Current Keeper with the decoder. You may have a newer model that has more room is the only thing I can imagine.

[@Austinxddd]

Do u have to use resisters when you install the ditch lights and other lights?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

For LEDs yes. You can find Technical notes on this subject on our website: soundtraxx.com/reference/documentation/

[@brianmarshall5703]

can we see this in a Kato p42? I see the old board isn't available anymore, so I would like to see how it fits into the engine with this version.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

We don't have access to all engines, but you can contact our Customer Support Department to discuss this fit further: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support

[@norliasmith]

Hmm, now where did I put my mill....

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

:)

[@mariomader8850]

Speaker wiring diagram-WHAT AM I MISSING HERE? Two of the 8 ohm cubes in series = 16 ohms. Wiring two groups of cubes in Parallel would = 8 ohms. Your diagram shows two groups of cubes being wired in SERIES which would equal 32 ohms. Is it not correct to have wired the two cube groups plus to plus and minus to minus to be in parallel and = the 8 ohms. Most Tsunami 2s have the wattage, but this should dramatically lesson the sound quality power output volume?

[@scottwalters6031]

What solder and Flux do you like to use. Great video.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

You can order the solder from Digikey. I don’t remember the diameter this minute, but smaller is better. There is not just one brand of Flux that will work. Just make sure it is an electronics grade flux. You can get a good flux from Digikey. Search Chipquik flux syringe. I believe it’s about $12. The stuff we use is a bit more expensive and flows clear. Here’s the stuff George uses at home: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chip-quik-inc/SMD291NL/SMD291NL-ND/1160000 It’s about $12 per ‘syringe’ The stuff we have here is Alpha OM-338. You can search online or here’s a link to a random website: www.solderconnection.com/P1186/ALPHA-OM338-LEAD-FREE-FLUX-GEL.html Because it’s an industrial use flux, most of the links want you to contact them for quotes.

[@scottwalters6031]

@@SoundtraxxDCC Thank you for the reply and info.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@scottwalters6031 Of course, let us know if you need anything else!

[@milepost856]

I gave old zchool , 1000 decoder finaly got to reset. i cant get the light to work any tip

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Contact our Customer Support Department for help with this: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support Thank you

[@kakkun61]

How to cut the die-cast?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

I have used a fine-tooth metal hacksaw in many cases. I do not personally have access to a milling machine, which would be the preferred way to get more professional cuts, but a hacksaw and a file can get useable results. Remove all of the motor, trucks, driveline, etc to prevent any damage or metal shavings getting in there to cause excessive wear or possibly to lock up the mechanism. Draw the lines where you want or need the cuts to be made, and take your time to make sure you follow the lines as closely as possible. Once the cuts are made, clean the edges with a file and make sure there are no jagged or sharp edges. The wash and let dry, reassemble and continue the install. This particular cutting was done by a friend who is no longer in town on their milling machine. Sigh.. For more details, contact us at support: [phone] ext. 22 or [e-mail]