Step-by-Step Tsunami2 TSU-2200 decoder install in an Athearn RTR RS3

This week George walks you through all of the steps to upgrade your Athearn RTR RS3 model with a Tsunami2 decoder. In this install we are using a Tsunami2 TSU-2200 Alco decoder and 2 SoundTraxx Mini Cube Speakers. After the install George also helps you set up a sound profile for your RS3 by selecting a prime mover, bell, airhorn and poppet valve. We also change the direction of travel to make this model run long hood forward. Watch now to learn more.
TSU-2200 For Alco Diesels (P.N. 885007): soundtraxx.com...
SoundTraxx Mini Cube Speaker (P.N. 810154): soundtraxx.com...
CVs Use in this video:
CV 29: Configuration Data 1, Value of 3 = Inverted Direction in this case
CV 120: Airhorn Selection, Value of 2 = Nathan K3L
CV 122: Bell Selection, Value of 2 = ALCO (1) Medium Ring Rate
CV 123: Prime Mover Selection, Value of 2 = ALCO 244 Turbo
CV 125: Poppet Valve Selection, Value of 0 = Poppet Valve
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[@CentralJerseyRailfan]

21:07 should give an good early preview how the recently announced Athearn RTR RS3s with Tsunami2 should sound. Nice install George!

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Thanks for the feedback! :D

[@Putmann]

George-Great install. Great ALCO sound. A few years ago I installed the TSU-2200 in my P2K FA-2 with one mini cube. Sounds are still excellent.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Thanks for the feedback. We are glad that you are enjoying Tsuanmi2!

[@squirrel265]

Awesome! I have one of these that I've been wanting to install sound.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Perfect timing then!

[@rogerhuber3133]

Great video, George. Only wish you would have throttled her up! The mini cubes sure have nice sound reproduction.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Im sure we will use this loco in future videos so stay tuned Im sure we will get there. Thanks for watching!

[@timothyjerry2455]

Great video. I’m curious what solder temp or brand, the type of flux and what iron you prefer ? I have this project to do but don’t know what the best above items are to use. Thanks.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

We have a few videos on this that may help you: kzbin.info?search_query=soundtraxx+soldering We use an industrial flux, but we often recommend ChipQuik Flux SMD291. If you still have questions after watching these our Support Team is available: [phone] ext. 22 or [e-mail]

[@Eduardomd54]

George ; and an installation of decoder & sound in Old DC Atlas RS3, not a Ready DCC , with any electronic components. I understand First I have to Isolate the Motor from the chasis . It may be an interesting conversion!

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

If you need any advice along the way just contact our Support Team: [e-mail] or [phone] ext. 22.

[@DCoombs928]

Nailed it again george! Me i prefer emds than alcos. But the sounds in the tsu2 might tempt me to get one and install an alco diesel decoder:)

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Do it! :D

[@katyuuki2261]

How much more space would you save if you dropped in a replacement board? Instead of keeping the existing board

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

On this particular model, there is not much space above the motor. The high Athearn ‘gold’ motor is high, and their PCB is more flat on top than our comparable TSU-PNP8, so some milling and remotoring would actually do the trick to free up some of the vertical clearance needed for a PCB replacement. Normally, that is my preferred method. Thanks for watching!

[@BC-fy1wn]

Great video!George,it is better for a soldering iron to be cleaned on one of those pot scrubber metal sponges than it is to use water.Why,as I slowly open up a can of controversial worms,the water cools the tip too quickly and shocks it.This causes the type to crack and the clading material to flake off over time.Just a hint from my bench to yours. Doc BC

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

We have used both. I understand the thought process between the brass sponge and a wet regular sponge, but in our professional training, they stated either is fine. If you feel more comfortable using the brass sponge, rather than a grocery-store pot cleaner, opt for the better brass sponge from an electronics supply company like Digikey or Mouser.

[@startrekking359]

Wouldn't forward direction be where the (F) is ?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Contact our Support Team and they will be happy to give you more advice: [phone] or [e-mail]. Thank you!

[@Panzermeister36]

Hello. I have a question. Regarding the brake function, I would find it more handy if I could use function 4 for indep brake and function 11 for dynamic brake. Is there an easy way to swap them around like that, or will it take a lot of work? Thank you...I'm new to this.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

With Tsunami2 decoders you can have any button you want control any effect you want it to. One button can control more than one effect, but the same effect cannot be controlled by more than one button. This SoundTraxx feature is called Flex-Map Function Mapping. We have several videos on this feature. Watch them here: kzbin.info?search_query=soundtraxx+flex-map+function

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

If you need more help please feel welcome to contact our Support Department. We are here to help: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support

[@Panzermeister36]

@@SoundtraxxDCC Excellent. I'd just like to swap dynamic brake from f4 to f11, and also swap independent brake from f11 to f4. I'll check out your videos.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@Panzermeister36 You can do that easily enough. If you need any help figuring it out just contact our Support Department at the link above. We are always happy to help!

[@maxheadroom7687]

Hi there George, great video, one question as a newbie to this that I have, is the flux that you use, you don’t seem to have to clean up after? I thought in the past flux had to be cleaned after because of possible later corrosion? Do the new fluxes available no longer require this? Thanks👍🇦🇺😎

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

As long as it is a proper electronics grade flux then you should not have an issue, however there is no reason you cannot still clean it with some rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. Just make sure that you are using electronics grade flux or it will damage the board.

[@neilrogers1571]

George one question is there enough room to fit an engineer in the cab by the speakers?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Yes, but not much room. My have to trim him to fit.

[@maxheadroom7687]

Hi George, another newbie question. When you put a DCC decoder into the locos I thought that the lighting had to be changed to led from the old bulbs and fitted with suitable resistors….is this not the case as this loco was a newer unit? I was told that the excess voltage might heat the lights too much and maybe damage the body shell. I am attempting to convert some old proto 2000’s to DCC and am a bit confused about the necessity to fit resistors? Can you help?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

The need for resistors will vary depending on what kind of bulbs you are using and what decoder you are using. Each of our decoders have their specifications listed on our website. Some of our new decoders are pre-regulated for LEDs so you don't need resistors, but not all of our decoders have this feature. You can see wiring diagrams for all of our Tsunami2 and Econami decoders with different types of bulbs in the Installation Guide on our website. You can also find wiring diagrams in the Technical Notes section of our website. SoundTraxx product documentation: soundtraxx.com/reference/manuals/ For more information on the subject please contact our Support team directly: [phone] or [e-mail]

[@maxheadroom7687]

@@SoundtraxxDCC thanks so much George.!👍

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@maxheadroom7687 of course

[@kspokermike1629]

Don’t use foam tape to mount your speakers. The foam tape will deteriorate over time and is usually too thick anyway. Double sided carpet tape works the best and is also thinner than foam tape so you’ll have more room for your speaker and or decoder installation.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

I agree on the thickness issue. Foam tape is a bit thick and can cause fit issues. In this case, it is fine. I have not had any deterioration over the years. But I guess it could happen. I’ll look into the carpet tape. Thanks