KLR650 Balancer Adjustment Lever (doohickey) Replacement Video 3

Third in a series of four videos on replacing the doohickey. There are lot's of videos on KZbin covering this; I tried to cover some commonly asked questions and provide some tips and techniques.

[@recycledsoul2668]

From what i have read on forums and personally experienced, no one has ever had trouble with re-using the original rotor bolt. Even my Kawasaki dealer said to re-use them and they also have never had trouble doing this. There again I rarely use a torque wrench either unless doing such things like head, cam bolts or the like. Yes! I did use a torque wrench on my rotor bolt though. I'm not that stupid. But with smaller non essential/critical bolts and a little common sense, you just develop a feel for what is sufficient torque along with a little bit of thread lock, especially on these thumper bikes. In all my years, i've never ever had an issue. I guess some people though may easily over-tighten and strip their threads if heavy handed so a torque wrench is advisable. BTW, I like My KLR 650 I don't ever want to sell it. This has been a great informative video and really enjoyed watching.

[@souperdoo]

I'm glad that you liked the video. I agree on the rotor bolt. Many people are told to replace it, though, so in the video I go through using the old bolt for the initial torque up, then the new, dry and clean, bolt for the final torque. I have yet to see anywhere that Kawasaki says that the rotor bolt is a replacement item, though. Mind you, that's not to say that replacing it is a bad idea. Taken to extremes, it would be a 'good idea' to replace every bolt after one use. That way we could be sure that we had nice, clean threads, no burs on the head, etc. But that would be silly. To sum up, if I'm doing the job for someone else I use a new bolt. If asked, I'll say "Yeah, get a new one. You don't have to but if it makes you feel good..." For my own bike, no. Same with the torque wrench; it's better, in an instructional video, to show a torque wrench being used. The video is not meant for the seasoned mechanic so much as it is meant for the person who hasn't done this sort of stuff before. Tom

[@szymoozz]

This video just made up my mind. My doohickey is almost out of travel. Time to change that sucker. Thanks!

[@alanw6135]

Very informative. Thorough, clear explanation of the steps and the parts. Keep more KLR instructional videos coming. Thanks.

[@souperdoo]

+Alan Williams Alan, I'm glad you found it useful. I have always though "why should I make yet another doohickey video?", but I was going in there anyway and figured, what the heck, I'll do it. Tom

[@andylange4805]

Fantastic the best video. Very helpful, thank you very much! 😊

[@nfd610]

Fantastic series. Very helpful. Thank you. Liked and subscribed.

[@souperdoo]

Robert, I'm happy that you found it useful. Please feel free to check out my blog where I occasionally post up stuff I think might be interesting. www.souperdoo.com/ Tom

[@caharkness]

3:30 teenage mutant ninja turtle cyclops... now I can't unsee.

[@shaunkuhn2760]

are these balancer adjustment lever videos applicable to first gen 650's or just 2008 and on. thanks

[@souperdoo]

The procedure applies to both Gen 1 and Gen 2 bikes.

[@shaunkuhn2760]

thanks for the reply.

[@theoriginalmungaman]

The factory piece is not cast and the aftermarket one is not Blanchard ground! A Blanchard grinder leave circular marks.

[@CK-iy6tn]

If you take it apart and find that the hole as been drilled at the 730 position. Should it be re drilled? I'm able to hook the spring. It's not fun but its doable.

[@souperdoo]

If it has been that way and you can install the spring again without using pliers, I'd leave it be. If you have to resort to pliers, I'd re-drill the hole. Here's the reason. You want to be able to install the spring with something smooth, like a heavy version of a dental pick. You don't want to use pliers because the teeth on pliers will nick the spring. Nicks are stress risers and places where the spring can break. There have been plenty of reports of these springs, which are generally bulletproof, breaking because they got nicked up when being installed. At first, people were saying there was a bad batch of springs but it was really the use of pliers, especially needle-nose pliers, that caused the breakage. Harbor Freight sells a set of picks (www.harborfreight.com/Mini-Pick-and-Hook-Set-63697.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiOTUyMTc3MTEiLCJza3UiOiI2MzY5NyIsImlzIjoiMC45OSIsInByb2R1Y3RfaWQi%0D%0AOiIxMjg2NyJ9%0D%0A&cid=paid_google|||63697&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-r71BRDuARIsAB7i_QPVYkQP5IfGvNutvetS2Yqqe5k6ZBDgeQ1lsa9ZFhZrklXGQ5US1XUaAo8IEALw_wcB)

[@CK-iy6tn]

@@souperdoo I used the same type of hook you used in your video and was able to do it. I understand why the 530 position would be better though lol. Thanks.

[@teoacuna2698]

cuanto es el torque que lleva los tornillos de de la tapa

[@firegrunt03]

Sir I over torqued the screw adjustment and it broke during maintenance. Now I am compelled to do this. My 2015 has 4k miles. Any ideas on how to remove that broken part?

[@souperdoo]

You will need to remove the outer case. There is a chance that you might be able to get it out with needle-nose Vise-Grips if there is enough shank left. If not, you will have to remove the rotor and starter ring gear so that you can get at the base of the screw. From there you will need to determine if you can get Vise-Grips on it or will have to use a Dremel to cut a slot in it for a screwdriver. If it is exceptionally tight you may have to resort to an EZ-Out. Good luck. Tom

[@firegrunt03]

@@souperdoo I removed the cover and can see the bolt broken. Its gonna need a broken screw extractor.. damn them harbor freight torque wrench. I put it a tad below 78 inch lbs and it still broke it. I should have just use a regular socket since its just snug like the cover bolts anyway. ty for your reply...

[@souperdoo]

@@firegrunt03 I bothers me when people recommend the HF torque wrenches. I did a test on one and it was terrible. That story is here: www.klrforum.com/klr-other-motorcycle-related-discussion/35186-how-important-using-torque-wrench.html#post334378 I prefer to use the beam-type torque wrenches because they have no moving parts and always read correctly, though they are harder to use. The clicker-type torque wrenches need to be calibrated before relying on them. Torque wrenches are expensive and beam-type wrenches in the 0-100inch-lb range are rare. I have a clicker type for that and the best one I have found at a reasonable price is the Husky brand. All that said, make sure that you're not confusing a ft-lb wrench with an in-lb wrench. 80in-lb is not much more than an eighth of a turn past the point where the screw stops turning. How far in was the screw broken off, and will you have to remove the rotor to get to it? Tom

[@neurozero]

Stock washer vs eagle mile washer . Is eagle Mike thinner washer

[@souperdoo]

The stock washer is 2mm thick. EM washer is just a standard washer and is 1.5mm thick. EM gives you a washer to use if your bike did not come with a washer. You do not use both.

[@clivegreenall309]

Thanks Tom Rgds Clive

[@seymourplaisir]

why can't you put back old rotor bolt ..and where can I buy a new one . when I mention rotor bolt they assume brake rotor bolts..I'm that the correct name

[@souperdoo]

Seymour, As far as I'm concerned, you can put the old bolt back in. I have searched the manuals and have never found anything where Kawasaki says that the bolt is one-time use. I could be full of crap, but I've looked pretty thoroughly That said, it is a pretty high-torque application and, if at all possible, it is not a bad idea to replace the bolt with a new one. This is one of those times when it may not be mandatory, but it is good practice. You can get the bolt from a Kawasaki dealer world-wide (don't know where you are) by asking for it by part number. It is part number 92002-1693, BOLT, FLANGED, 12X40. You can also order it from any of the on-line suppliers (I like Partzilla) by using the same part number or by looking it up through their fiche system. You'll find it in the 'Generator" section. Here's a link to the Partzilla fiche: www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/Motorcycle/2009/KL650E9F+KLR650/GENERATOR/parts.html Tom