Sovol Klipper / SV07 Plus Easy Setup Guide 3D Printer calibration: bed leveling z-offset z-tilt wifi

[@blam3329]

The machine default web interface (port 80) is "mkspi"/"mainsail" instead of fluidd on mine - fluidd is served on port 81 for anybody having the same experience as me. This was a helpful video - thank you for making it. I got my 07+ printing from USB and Cura 5.4.0. via WiFi/Moonraker. My initial impression of this printer is positive so far. It's still weird watching it print that damn fast, and the integrated webUIs are SO much faster to load than Octoprint on a pi 3B.

[@pah1of284]

I didn't know this - is it important? I'm so new I have no clue.

[@tezzin6714]

beer in hand, and following your instruction while i set up my new SV07 plus. Love your videos!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

To your health! Congrats to the new printer! One of my favorites :)

[@EdwinMendoza-e9b]

Thank you so much! I struggled for one week try to get my Sovol SV07 plus to print something decent and now I am on the right path!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Congrats to your SV07+. I love this printer! I am so glad thse videos were a help to you

[@kevinhartog5079]

thanks for helping! setting up my first printer was a breeze with your video

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Glad I could help!

[@danielfrohnhoefer2545]

Thank you so much for your video. Finally my SV07+ prints correctly. Great video and great explanation 👍🏻👍🏻

[@firenbubble]

En trois mois tu as triplé tes abonnés, bien jouer ! Merci pour la vidéo, tu m'aide a me décider, j'hésite entre la SV06 plus et la CV07 plus pour ma première imprimante, et il y a pas grand monde qui en parle aussi bien que toi. Salut biloute.

[@pah1of284]

Great video, just got done putting mine together, and watching this for leveling before I try (my first 3d printer) I actually used a "paint" sharpee to mark my wheels, but however you choose do it - marking the spring wheels is something you should definitely do!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Yes, the paint sharpie was my first thought too, but I didn't have any at home :) Congrats to your first printer! Welcome aboard!

[@sethgrusin698]

totally awesome gergo as a new person with little tech experience this is so helpful

[@aris_legacy5471]

Great video, I'm going to be looking forward to all your other videos. The bed leveling helps so much, my prints are really improved!

[@seaofcuriosity]

What are the physical dimensions of the SV07plus with and without bed slinged fully ?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Depth: 47cm, the bed slings 22cm in the back (including bed heating cable) and 9cm in the front. Width: 33cm gantry extends 11cm on both sides

[@seaofcuriosity]

@@gerGoPrint3D okay so i would require a table of (47+22+9)cm x ( 33 + 11 +11 )cm. And i will be able to keep the table flushed by the wall. Am i right ?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@seaofcuriosity Yes, actually you don't need the 9cm in the front, since the bed can move past the front edge of the table. Also, I am not sure, if you have space on the sides, a 33mm wide table should be enough to put the printer on.

[@seaofcuriosity]

Yeah but i am planning to turn the table into an enclosure later down the line. For ABS. Thanks a lot for replying every time i ask something.

[@jonjeys7824]

I was wondering what settings for the SV07 you use in the Utilimaker Cura to set up the printer? I see that one would need to select custom as it is not listed.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Please watch my video on how to add sv07/plus to cura → kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnylg4J5prOmfpI But I actually recommend using Orca slicer and I also made a comprehensive video on how to use it with the SV07 / Plus → kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGKQh4hmZpJse9U I switched to Orca in the beginning of the year, and never looked back :)

[@cs-xd9gy]

My probe doesn't show the sample section. All I see is probe and x and y under it.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

You can add new parameters, just follow the exact notation. If not specified the system will use its default settings.

[@cs-xd9gy]

@gerGoPrint3D Thank you, I read all of the comments and saw that answer after I sent the message. I tried the z tilt and it did the routine and then errored out. I'll have to figure that out. Thank you

[@3DPrintMasters]

Nice video man. I will use it on my SV-07 Plus. Keep it up!

[@timothyjin8103]

At 31:00 you mention the screw moving being a sign of the bed mesh, mine is making a small clicking noise which I suspect to be coming from the screws. However, it happens even when not printing the first layer. Do you know of anything like this?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Try cleaning the lead-screws and re-greasing them. You could have something stuck on it. Uneven motion on z can lead to z-banding and other artifacts.

[@KaneMilne]

Thank you for this video. I don't have an SV07 yet, but I am very tempted to get one.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Highly recommended :) The only thing to consider is whether to get the SV06+ and its Klipper upgrade ($329+$99) or the SV07+ ($379) or the SV07 ($289) if the smaller build volume is enough. You can find the direct links to these in the description! These are amazing printers for the price, what a time to be alive!

[@olevermontplowboys5574]

Hi Friend! I currently have this Sv07 - and really love it - however, I'm really stuck trying to set up octoprint on mine - the connection over my serial port keeps timing out and it never connects. I've tried so many ways to fix this but still can't get it - All I want to do is create a timelapse video on this machine - but I use Orca Slicer which doesn't seem to support it and I"m really struggling trying to get Octoprint to work over the serial port on this machine. If you have any suggestions - I'm all ears! Thanks So Much! :C -Cholly

[@gerGoPrint3D]

You are a mind reader!! I've been preparing a video on cams and timelaps for SV07/T300/Klipper in the last 2 days. I have about 2-3 more days of work before I can post it, but it's easier than you'd think. No need for Octoprint. Make sure to get an EMMC reader before though because I recommend making backups before setting up everything. See my video on EMMC backups.

[@olevermontplowboys5574]

Thanks So much! I just bought your screen cooler files! I'll be printing it this afternoon! Many Thanks! @@gerGoPrint3D

[@kencarter62]

great video

[@regis_assao]

Hi Gergo, thanks for sharing all your knowledge, it's been very helpful for me, first 3D printer, totally new in the hobby. One thing that I was in doubt is how do you know on the fly if the z-level is too low or too high. Maybe this could be another video for the future: fine tunning the print whilst printing the first layer. Thanks!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you for the tip. I might do it, though this is a universal 3D printing topic, which has been covered in many videos. I will have to see what specific or new I can add to make it worthwhile.

[@gordoncollyer8252]

Thanks for the step - by - step instructions. My first bed mesh produced a total variance of around .267 with a bed temp of 60. And had a good print of a simple part. The next day the bed mesh calibration produced a radically different mesh with a total variance of around 0.7, which seems to big. Same temp and 7x7 mesh. Did I miss something?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I recommend redoing the automatic gangry leveling before every print. For an automated method check out my video on Christian Vick's Klipper additions and orca slicer → kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGKQh4hmZpJse9U

[@gordoncollyer8252]

@@gerGoPrint3DExcellent advice! I did this and the resulting bed mesh was in family to prior result. Today for an experiment I did a bed mesh and it was out of family but better than the result that caused my original concern. After a gantry level today the bed mesh was again nearly identical to the original calibrations. Thanks !

[@davidconner-shover51]

Thank you for the info. One if my biggest issues I've had is to have the Z raise a bit, say 25 to 50mm at the end of a print, or a print cancel if possible. not familiar with Gcode yet, but the only options I see in Klipper are to home the print head first before it will allow me to move Z at all. this is invariably problematic when there is a print on the bed, or the build plate is not on the printer at the moment. this is a bit problematic when trying to retrieve a small part that got stuck to the print head, or trying to get enough clearance to even clear the build plate after a print on some prints

[@burgaoguilherme]

I having a issue that i don't know how to fix when Z tiling it: "probe triggered prior to movement". I don't know what that means, the error message is too vague and i can't find a solution anywhere. Do you know what could be the issue?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Try raising the print head by manually turning the lead screw couplers (behind the z columns). Also make sure there is no metal near the leveling probe (I once had a led light cable run too close and it randomly interfered with the probe). If these don't help, it could be faulty hw, you'll need to contact Sovol.

[@jaydhindsa5]

Thanks for the nice videos, specially helpful for new comers like me. one question I have is in regards to the mini calibration STL when I try printing it on my SV07 plus , printer throws error of out of range and I noticed it is trying to print out of the bed. any idea what this could be ? I rechecked everything and confirm all setting are same as yours.. Thanks Jay

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Make sure you have no skirt or brim enabled. The 1st layer test print when scaled to the full size of the bed doesn't leave space for these.

[@parmjitdhindsa5960]

Thanks for the tip, that indeed was the issue.

[@martinskapacs6703]

Great video 👍

[@GregMartz-p6s]

Was doing pretty well up until the print of the first layer calibration. Set it to 300x300 as you show, sent it to the printer. It started the first layer, then got to the end and threw an error: !! Move out of range: 302.475 19.789 0.262 [51.382] and it died. Curious as to how yours printed at 300x300 and mine won't.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Make sure not to set a "brim" or "skirt" under "bed adhesion", because it adds to the print size, which you don't have room for if you max out the size of the test model. For this test just leave it on "None".

[@GregMartz-p6s]

That was it! Didn't even think of the brim.

[@Scott4271]

Thanks for the video, your demo of bed leveling really helped (I've rediently moved up from an SV01 to an SV07 Plus). I got my SV07 plus for fast, utilitarian prints (parts boxes, etc.) and am trying to get it to work with a 0.8mm nozzle, tallest layer height I can do (so far 0.4) and fastest print speed (currently 250mms). I'm having some success; but also producing a lot of stagette. There's not much on the net about fast print speeds with big nozzles and was hoping you might consider doing a video?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I already did a video on larger 0.6mm nozzle settings for SV06 Plus in Cura. It's a good idea to eventually make an update with the SV07 Plus on Klipper using Orca Slicer and maybe even a bigger 0.8 or 1.0mm nozzle. I put it on my list :) But be warned, I will probably ask for your experience before I get to it 😉

[@Scott4271]

@@gerGoPrint3D Excellent! Happy to contribute. So far I’ve gone from plates of spaghetti to slightly defective boxes

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@Scott4271 The SV07/Plus has good cooling, but even that might not be enough for 0.8mm at Klipper speeds. You will need 100% fans and maybe need to slow down a bit. And of course set the new nozzle size in the slicer, increase line width and layer height. You might need to play with flow rates and temps as well. The hardened steel nozzles need 5-10°C higher temps and the bigger ones even more. I wouldn't be surprised if we needed 220°C or hotter nozzle for 0.8mm. Do a temp tower.

[@Scott4271]

@@gerGoPrint3D Good suggestions, thanks. I’ve been having some luck with 240 C and 250mms. 95% flow rates. Cooling seems ok

[@mematitr]

I have a question about the z offset. Do you have to set the z offset with a cold nozzle and cold heated bed or with a hot nozzle and heated bed?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I do all calibration at medium operational temperatures. 70°C bed, 215°C nozzle.

[@mematitr]

Thanks

[@AngelRodriguez-qg5qq]

Thanks gerGO!!!!!!!!

[@DavidLeeMenefee]

When you bed level there is a function that says "Disable xy". I cannot find anywhere on the internet how to use this function. Can you tell me when and how I should use this particular feature. No where in the tiny little manual does it say what exactly this function is used for. I would really appreciate your expertise in this matter, I also have a sovol sv07-plus(+) just like you, thanks Dave.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I think "Disable XY" disengages the horizontal motors so you can manually move the tool head horizontally. It keeps the height of the nozzle over the print bed (z) locked. Normally you don't need to press that button as the system will take care of moving the print head around for probing the corners.

[@DavidLeeMenefee]

@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you, I will give this more thought.

[@cyrdel7086]

Un grand merci pour cette vidéo très intéressante et précise sur tout ces réglages du Z, je vais essayer vôtre méthode 👍🤞 et pensez vous faire une config avec prusaslicer aussi svp? 👋🥂

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Merci! J'apprécie vraiment votre commentaire! Je n'ai essayé PrusiaSlicer qu'une seule fois, puisque tout ce dont j'ai besoin se trouve dans Cura, mais je promets que j'y réfléchirai davantage et que je publierai une vidéo lorsque j'aurai un peu d'expérience. (La prochaine vidéo portera sur les calibrations plus avancées: PID, input shaper, moteurs pas à pas)

[@cyrdel7086]

@@gerGoPrint3D j'ai hâte de la voir car je rencontre quelques soucis sur ma SVO7+ du coup je suis ravi d'avoir croisé votre chemin 😉👍

[@regis_assao]

​@@gerGoPrint3Dthat would be a good one. As a newbie, I want to test both before making a choice between Cura and Prusalicer, and a video from you would be very helpful for me to understand the pros and cons of both options

[@Xabiman]

Hi! How did you noticed that you must to go 0.1 lower at fine adjustment when printing the benchy? I'm newbie and I don't know if I need to make a fine adjustment... Thank you for your very helpful videos.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Search for posts such as "3D Printing 101: How to Succeed with a Perfect First Layer for Every 3D Print" they show photos of how it should look like. Then you can adjust z-height and flow rate until it looks like that!

[@blessblend8300]

Is it possible to turn off or deactivate the probe? And the printer works normally in a fully manual way to perform the z-offset? tks

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I am not aware of any way to disable it, as it is needed for homing the print head in Klipper. However there are several mods available now to change it to a more accurate inductive probe, BLTouch or clicky probes.

[@kentgonzalez8612]

Hi GerGo, Thank you for all your videos, I just received my Sv07 Plus but I'm encountering some issues when printing after leveling. The mesh seems to be correct, the G code seems to be pulling the default mesh as well, z motors seem to be adjusting when printing, the issue is that one of the corners is printing super close the the bed, and on the other super high, like if I didn't level the bed. Wondering if you have encountered anything similar?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Check if your gantry is square to the bed and it, your bed, extruder or nozzle/heatblock are not wobbly. I can't think of any other reason why a mesh would not follow the shape of the bed. The only time this happened to me when the mesh wasn't loaded, but you've ruled that out.

[@kentgonzalez8612]

@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you very much for the prompt response. I've checked the physical integrity of the printer and everything seems to be good. I've meshed the bed with a 12, 12 and 5 samples and it appears to be that the bed is really warped at the back and klipper is unable to compensate for such a big value, I'm adding foil tape to see if that makes a difference. For future reference, do you know what part od the code increases the Z tolerance for the mesh?

[@kentgonzalez8612]

​@@gerGoPrint3D For the record in case someone else comes across this. The issue was overcompensation from Klipper. I fixed this by setting bicubic_tension: 0.1 and disabling all fade settings. I tested this by setting bicubic_tension: 2 and when you send a 0 command to Z it will apply double the value from the mesh.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@kentgonzalez8612 Wow. Nice troubleshooting! I wonder why other SV07 Pluses are not affected. Could it be specific to the way your bed is warped?

[@kentgonzalez8612]

@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you! It could definitely be the way my bed was warped. This is because if it needed to compensate for -0.5 mm then klipper was doing -1 mm making it dragging the nozzle across the bed. On the other hand, this could also explain bad adhesion on first layer for some users, mesh says compensate for 1 mm and klipper is doing 2 mm instead. This is of course an exaggerated example, but it is just to show why it could be a factor on bed adhesion. Again, thank you so much for all the valuable information you share in your videos, simply amazing!

[@jclongy7886]

Just picked up an sv07. Followed the setup in this video twice, but can’t get the boat to stick to the mat. Closest it’s gotten is 50 layers out of 246. Found in the guide where the bed temp is only 50, so upped that to 70, then again to 75. Don’t know what I’m doing wrong, but it’s driving me crazy.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I am sorry for your troubles. Clean your PEI sheet with isopropyl alcohol so it doesn't have any oils from your hand / factory. SV07 comes with PEI that has very good bed adhesion, but most bed adhesion issues stam from incorrectly set z-offset. Please research the topic, and see if it is not too close and not too far from the bed. We almost always need to fine-adjust the z-offset during the first prints after the paper method. Bed temperature has less to do with it, anything between 60-70°C should work OK, especially in the center of the bed. Are you using the white PLA that came with the printer? It should work OK. If not, do try that. Maybe your filament needs special settings. Try different filaments. PLA on the SV07 PEI should and will have perfect sticking given it is oil free and first layer height is set correctly.

[@jclongy7886]

@@gerGoPrint3D I tried to skip the cleaning process. Wasted more time avoiding it than giving it a quick wipe down. It stuck beautifully. Thank you. Now to move on to the fine-tuning steps.

[@SvenZ.IT-CG]

First of all, thank you for your great videos! Now i have a question about leveling the bed, on my SV 07 Plus the bed is not level (even if I tighten all 4 screws), in your video it is perfectly level, should I now tighten/loosing the screws before I continue turn it so that it is level? Or just follow your instructions? Thank you

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Well, my procedure works, so I can recommend it. The only change maybe to start by tightening all 4 leveling wheels all the way, then loosening them 3 full turns. Then maybe do an auto z-tilt, so the gantry is level with the bed, then level the corners using the assisted bed-leving command. Then follow with another z-tilt and finally the bed mesh. You will want to z-tilt before every print too. It's so quick that makes sure your mesh will be perfectly usable. The thing is, we want both the bed and the gantry to be level with the frame of the printer. But using the inductive probe we can only level them to each other, which is better than nothing of course...

[@SvenZ.IT-CG]

@@gerGoPrint3D another problem, ny toolhead isnt centered when i do a Home All, also Home Z ends not centered, it's more left, do you know how to fix that?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@SvenZ.IT-CG The probe should be be in the center after homing. If it's not, you can check the sensorless homing sensitivity for the x axis. driver_sgthrs: value in the [tmc2209 stepper_x]. Take not of what it is, and try increasing lowering slightly.

[@SvenZ.IT-CG]

@@gerGoPrint3D thx, it was fixed after reset to factory and done everything again..... :)

[@markthompsonst45]

Gergo, do you know if it's possible to add an ERCF to the SV07 Plus?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

ERCF v2 is not limited to CoreXY printers; it can also work with bed slingers, it only requires Klipper, which the SV07/Plus has. So I see no reason why it wouldn't work, but I don't have any personal experience.

[@AlbertTheFinal]

Hello again Gergo, I am getting the error move out of range, where would I find the "Make sure not to set a "brim" or "skirt" under "bed adhesion"" that you need to fix said problem?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Build Plate Adhesion group in Cura, "type: none"

[@Rahul166]

When trying to print the prusa mini first layer test i get the error "Move out of range: 302.446 19.694 0.058 [175.850]" Edit: I had Brim turned on

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Disable skirt. Please read comments below, you are the 5th to ask the same question 😊No worries though!

[@DavidLeeMenefee]

Hi gerGO sorry to bother you again but so far sovol has not yet responded to my question. I just started printing large files and discovered that my xy-axis values are offset by (x,y) ( +10mm, -4mm). This is at the origin point that should read I believe (0,0). So can you tell me how to set my origin point at (0,0) so I can get a complete 300mm by 300mm by 300mm print. Thanks Dave.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

It's was a multi-day holiday in China since the 1st of May. I hope they respond soon. Is your bed free to move? Not bumping into anything? You could also check your sensorless homing sensitivity setting (research driver_sgthrs parameter for your X/Y TMC motors in printer.cfg).

[@DavidLeeMenefee]

​@@gerGoPrint3D Is your bed free to move? Yes. OK I will look into that. There are xy-axis settings within klipper but they don't seem to retain their values. I am trying to resolve this issue on the printer itself but all the videos I see online seem to want me to adjust the fluid or mainsale xy-axis settings. Right now I am a little confused about all this. But thanks for your concern, Thanks Dave.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@DavidLeeMenefee The only place I'd look is the printer.cfg. I have no explicit experience with this, but it very much feels like this should be a setting there. But not the position directly, since that is probably set correctly just as anybody else's , but the way it finds that (during homing). That's why I suggested to start researching on this track. But I highly recommend posting a question (or a short video of the issue) in the sv07/+ facebook group, there are many knowledgeable people there, with much more experience than I

[@DavidLeeMenefee]

@@gerGoPrint3D Yes I am doing that today, perhaps there is no solution to this problem at the printer itself but I guess I will waite for some response from SOVOL. I want to resolve this issue from the printers point of view but maybe that is not possible. I does seem to me however that there should be a way to fix this issue at the printer, I guess I'll find out shortly. Thanks, Dave.

[@Evil_Clown_3DIY]

Hi, i love your videos, cause they are very helpful for me. I have 3 Sovol SV06+ now. one Qestion : where did you get your nice Sovol Shirts you wear in your videos ?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I won them in the Sovol giveaways: the black in the Easter Giveaway, the white in the Back-to-school giveaway in the fall :)

[@lediberica]

Hello, i just got holes in first and last layer with Cura... Can you help me?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

New firmware needs more overlap. Try setting skin overlap from 10% to 50% (Cura → Top/Bottom skin overlap)

[@Goober9099]

It says option 'samples_tolerence_retries' is not valid in section 'probe' 4:41 Edit: im dumb and put tolerence and not tolerance

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I always mess that word up too. In fact I didn't spot the mistake in your original post and was equally puzzled 😛

[@Rawbrassenjoyer]

Changed my probe count to 7, 7 but still only getting 5 x 5 mesh. Any tips?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Have you rebooted the printer?

[@Rawbrassenjoyer]

Yes after saving config file

[@gerGoPrint3D]

​@@Rawbrassenjoyer And when you go back to the printer.cfg, are your edits there? "probe_count:7,7" You'll have to redo the mesh of course too.

[@alexklaus2778]

I did reboot and my changes (7,7) where still there, yet i only get 5x5 measurements out.@@gerGoPrint3D

[@tomkierz]

Do you have any idea why the nozzle hits my prints? Usually hitting the infill or supports. -Tried the flex and fixed bed -First layer calibration prints look good -Z-tilt passing after 4/20 tries so Z motors are correctly plugged to the board -Loosened the wheels on Z axis cause they were too tight. -Tried different bed temps/nozzle temps -Print is not coming off the bed. It sticks well, no warping etc. -Flow turned down from 95% to 90% in cura with no luck Next thing i want to try is loosening the motors on Z axis to check if the shaft is lining up with the motor correctly. Any other ideas?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I think it has more to do with the filament you are using. Does it happen with other brands / types of filaments too? If it tends to curl the nozzle will hit it while printing consequent layers. It can be due to insufficient cooling (make sure the aux fan is enabled and your part is in the center 15x15cm area of the print bed) You can also try to print a temperature tower to see what temperature it curls the least. Cura settings which might help: turn off combing mode if it is enabled, and if that doesn't help enable z-hops (they tend to slow down the print though)

[@tomkierz]

@@gerGoPrint3D I've tried printing using my filament that i used with Ender-3 (some domestic stuff, printed without issues on Ender) and also with a filament that i got with a Sovol printer. Same thing. Even the benchy boat got hit(70% in print) just after the setup. I tried combing mode off and on with different settings. Z-hop would probably help but it's just covering the issue, not fixing it. It actually doesn't look curled, it doesn't look like it's coming of the plate. It's really weird. I measured the distances fromt the Z axis to the bed on both sides and every 20mm move of Z Axis translates to ~20.1mm move in real life. I also printed the calibration cube and it looks super good except that the printer was also hitting the infill grid but not enought to take the print off the plate. I measured the cube and it was 19.8x19.8x20.2 and it's 20.2 on the Z. Maybe that's why the nozzle hits the print after a while? When i print for example a calibration tower E-steps are correct, i tried 20-50mm extrusions and they are spot on. I printed a small plant vase, no supports, just the walls. It looks 100% good. No shifts, no hitting the walls between the layers, super crispy, super consistent layers.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@tomkierz Why not adjust the Z-steps (aka rotation distance) then? It's under the [stepper_z] section in your printer.cfg. It's 8 by default, so you could just set it to 8.08?

[@Craysav]

I wasn't able to get the fluid view that you have. So I was not able to get the configuration view to change the printer.cfg file. Any ideas how I can get there?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

A) You can find it under "Machine" in the new MainSail web interface. B) You can still switch back to Fluidd, if you add ":81" to the end of the web address.

[@Craysav]

Ty!@@gerGoPrint3D

[@Craysav]

Also I am getting an error that says samples_result: median is not a valid entry. basically telling me to fix my code. is there a way to bypass that? also my PIN value is different than yours. should I change the Pin value to match yours?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@Craysav Which printer do you have? I think the pin values are supposed to be different for different models. I am not sure about the message "samples_result: median is not a valid entry". At which step do you get this message?

[@Craysav]

@@gerGoPrint3D When I switch the mesh_min and mesh_max values to the ones you show which are 285, and 282 I get the error "Move out of range: -10.000 35.000 5.000 [0.000]. Any idea why that is happening?

[@denishillman5942]

I have a Sovol 07+ that has been going great after I discovered glue sticks, but suddenly nothing sticks. I’m planning to try a G10 plate. The PEI plate is needed to stop the Z down before crashing into the the plate. If I add the G10 1.5 mm how can I prevent the head crashing into the G10? Thanks. I’ve been levelling before every attempt. Next day - I see that using a G10 will not work. I’ve levelled the bed with a spirit level. Did the corner levelling which put the bed way out of whack. What hell is going on here? Update Restored factory settings Manually levelled bed with spirit level. Z tilt Z calibrate Bed level using screws adjust only Bed Mesh Is now printing good again.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Interesting. I never had bed adhesion issues, never used glue stick with my SV07+: 1. make sure your z-offset is correct, not too high, not too low 2. clean oils from the build plate usign isopropyl alcohol 3. experiment with bed / nozzle temperatures (65/210) works best for me for PLA 4. print the perimeters of the first layer slower. You can make the first layer infills a bit faster 5. avoid pointy corners on the first layer. Use brims or mouse ears if the model has them. I design my models with round corners for this reason. These work well for me

[@denishillman5942]

@@gerGoPrint3D Thanks for the response. I'm reading Christian Vick's info today. Hopefully that will help :) I went through all your info except the clipper stuff - thanks :)

[@esquivel4x4]

Hi Gergo, good night, if you had to decide between Sovol SV06 with Kipper and Sovol SV07 to print PetG mainly, which do you prefer and why?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Have you looked into the T300? It also comes with Klipper, and for PETG you will profit from the 4x faster bed heat up and faster nozzle heat up even more than for PLA printing. I think it is best of both worlds: offers almost the same rich feature set of the SV07+ with an even better motion system than the SV06+ is. Look into my new videos about the T300. Otherwise I always recommend the SV07+ over SV06+ because SV07+ is much more feature complete out of the box. And though for PETG you really don't need the extra speed of Klipper, but for convenience I recommend upgrading SV06+ to Klipper too. If for nothing else to get rid of the finicky microSD card... With much effort you can turn the SV06+ into something almost as good as the SV07+ but I think the SV07+ is far better value. I've just realized you asked about the regular size SV06 and SV07. The SV07 is OK, but the SV06 is inferior in a lot of ways, I totally not recommend that device (lacking highflow nozzle recommended for PETG, lead-screw issues, non-insulated heated bed again issue for higher bed-temp requirements for PETG). T300 > SV07+ = SV07 > Klipper-SV06+ > Klipper-SV06 > SV06+ > SV06

[@esquivel4x4]

Thanks a Lot

[@TDarvin]

I'm a noob and got this printer for Christmas how often do you have to reset the z offset or bed level calibrations? I wasn't sure if I had to do this before every print or not

[@gerGoPrint3D]

You can print a set of z-markers (I've just put the link in the description of this video), which shows you if the motors are out of sync every time after you Home the print head. Please watch my video on the idea, I made it for the SV06+, but created z-markers for the SV07 as well. Alternatively you can just do auto z-tilt before every print. Some say they come out of sync as soon as we unlock the motors. Of course it makes the preprint process a little longer.

[@TDarvin]

@@gerGoPrint3D thanks!

[@achristianconvertedtochris5862]

I like the fish on your computer.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

ichthus = Jesus Christ Son of God Savior

[@balazsnagy2916]

Szia! Megvettem azt a Z-marker-t a 07 plus-omra. De szorul a Z tengely tőle. :/ Pedig a kalibrációs kocka tökéletes méretű.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Melyik szeletelőt haszálod? Lehet, hogy egy kicsit túl-extrudálsz. Eddig más nem szólt, hogy ne lett volna jó. Orca-ban próbáld meg a Quality > XY-compenzációkat levenni 0-ról -0.2 vagy hasonlóra. Cura-ban ezt "Horizontal expansion"-nek hívják, ott is negatív ha nagyobb lyukat akarunk. Remélem sikerül, ha nem, csak szólj! Viszont akkor a pointer-eket ugyanennyivel plusz-ban nyomtasd

[@balazsnagy2916]

@@gerGoPrint3D Cura-t használok és mindíg a legújabbat. A középső furat szűk.

[@balazsnagy2916]

@@gerGoPrint3D A hiba megvan ugyan úgy, de csak a bal oldalinál. Csináltam videót is róla. Eltudom küldeni valahogy?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@balazsnagy2916 Persze, érdekel! Töltsd fel youtube-ra unlisted-ként, és küldd el a linket email címem megtalálod a channel leírásban.

[@Fraser_Noble]

I recently got an S7 that I can get to hook up to my WAN but the config files do not show the same as yours, I have a update file from support that I can't get to work . I think my lack of tech skills is the issue . I have been trying to update everything, have multiple additions and things off Github but if I cannot get into the pi /ssh I am out of luck. Frustrating.Bought your stl file but need to update everything 1st. Can slice and get decent prints with glue stick. The updating and sorting out Fluidd/Klipper/ G-code is the problem. I need to use the accelerometer to do the Y axis and then advanced tuning but cannot figure it out . S7 / S7 Plus are very little differences , bigger board in the printer and larger space.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I've been using the machine with much success without any software additions from github. I would wait with those. All the changes I show you is only in the printer.cfg file, which is easily editable. If the user interface is different on yours, try adding :81 to the IP address you enter in the webbroweser. They changed the default user interface in the new firmware to mainsail (I might cover the update process and the alternative interface in a future video) but you can still access fludd on port 81.

[@5doolar]

how o u have leds without the mount?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I will make a video on the alternative led mount soon! Basically you have to order 50x8mm 24V COB LED strip (~$0.25) and JST 1.25 plug (~$0.40), or do a bit of soldering like I did. Redo input shaper calibration. These are in my pipeline, I will show these in a future video soon!

[@DJMishaGrin]

Do these settings work for sovol7 also not just for 7+

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Yes, everyting applies to both SV07 and SV07+ alike. Besides the print volume, these two printers are identical.

[@DJMishaGrin]

What was the original bed measurements?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Which measurements do you mean? The z-offset is very specific to your extruder, depends on the nozzle, the specific height of the probe etc. There is really no point sharing those. Have I done any other measurement in this video?

[@DJMishaGrin]

@@gerGoPrint3D bed size, I changed on my 7+ and off now, I can't remember the original one

[@willienelsoncash]

i am getting an error on my Sovol SV07 Plus display pad with files sliced using Cura 5.5. I have recently updated using the printer config upload from your bubble page. I am using the Sovol supplied USB drive and I am able to click print. I see the thumbnail and all looks ok, but after 15 seconds the screen locks and has an error message and tells me after i resolve to click restart firmware. Any ideas?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

What does the error message say? I had an error like that the other day, turned out we shouldn't use percent sign (%) in file names.

[@willienelsoncash]

@@gerGoPrint3D i will check that bc i use the scale % in all of my sliced files. Hasnt been a problem in the past, but that was on my SV01 that used Marlin. If i get the error again i will take a picture.

[@willienelsoncash]

@@gerGoPrint3D also, have you noticed that slicing in Cura 5.5 for the SV07 Plus is slower than on other Sovol machines? I sliced with no supports and it took 26mins to slice a 97MB STL

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@willienelsoncash That is crazy slow. Do you mean minutes, not seconds? My prints take a few seconds to slice. Even the most complex ones would stay way under a minute... Given I have a core-i7 12700K with 128GB RAM and strong enough graphics card, but still...

[@willienelsoncash]

@@gerGoPrint3D the % in the file name was the issue, but i am STILL having crazy long slicing times on larger prints

[@khalidabdulkhaliq]

I have an issue where my sovol sv07 during z-tilt the probe is crashing into the bed. Can anyone help?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Test if your probe works at all. Remove the extruder housing and watch the light on the top of the probe. It should come on when you move a piece of metal (e.g. a screwdriver) near the tip of it, and the light should go out when you move it away. If the light doesn't react, check connections, contact Sovol for a replacement)

[@tomkierz]

Hi, i'm on software 1.0.8-07P from the factory and i can't find those lines that change probe tolerance. I have probe_count set to 5, 5 from the factory. Should i just add those lines that you copied or is there any other way to change it?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Yes, if they are not there Klipper will use default settings. Just add those lines you see in the video

[@jamiehooper7929]

​@@gerGoPrint3Dsame here.. I've added the extra lines. Above and below the added lines on your screen is this vgergo ( and Vgergo ) thing. Is is necessary to add that?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@jamiehooper7929 Not strictly necessary, but I recommend adding your own name, so you can see later what changes you added (some even like to add dates and a little comment where they learned about the added lines).

[@DJMishaGrin]

Sorry for asking again, but what is the default bed size? I changed it on my sovol 7+ and it's not printing at correct spot now. I changed yo tje size toy said in the video, but would like to go back to original.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

All your earlier printer.cfg files are saved in the printer with datestamps. Just go back to an earlier one (by renaming the new one with today's date and making a copy of the old one with the name printer.cfg). This is how you "factory reset", just go back to the earliest that you remember worked well for you. You can also just use file compare to see what changed and restore sections selectively.

[@DJMishaGrin]

@gerGoPrint3D funny story, I ordered 7+ but I just realized I have sovol 7. That's why I had problems. Quick question, can I use settings you talking about for 7+ on my sovol 7? Thx

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@DJMishaGrin Those settings are the same for both variant, except for the first-layer test print, which should be set to 220x220 mm in size (and set bed adhesion to "none")

[@seppforcher4714]

Sadly i get a "move out of Range 302:475 19.789 ..." error message when trying to print the 1st layer test. If i find a solution i will comment it

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Make sure to disable skirt (it would go beyond the limits) and if that still doesn't help, just reduce the size of the part by a few more millimeters (e.g. 295 x 295 x 0.2mm is just as good a test as a 300 x 300 one...)

[@seppforcher4714]

You are a 3d printing wizard. Idk how you figured it out from the information provided but it is printing now. It makes sense that it can't put a skirt outiside the max volume now but i would have never figured it out on my own. Ty very much

[@gerGoPrint3D]

​@@seppforcher4714 Yes, it's a cryptic message at first glance, but it basically says that the slicer instructed the printer to go beyond its limits. I've experienced this before. I hope your first layer test turned out well.

[@seppforcher4714]

@@gerGoPrint3D It turned out to be ok in the end. ty very much.

[@JB-yh5uv]

How do i get it to show fluidd instead of mkspi

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Try adding :81 to the ip address

[@JB-yh5uv]

Ok thanks for getting back to me

[@arturlittmann]

Hallo GerGo. It's me again. I got my Printer today and tried your insturctions in the video. I get the following error-message while z-tilt. Can you please help me?? 😳😳

[@gerGoPrint3D]

what is the error message? if it is about difference increasing, you might need to switch the two z motor pins in your printer.cfg. I've seen somebody else with this issue (z motors cross-plugged on the board, but it is easier to change the software than taking off the bottom)

[@arturlittmann]

probed points range is increasing.

[@arturlittmann]

Im sorry. I copied the Error Code but forgot to Post it

[@arturlittmann]

Maybe i should manually rotate the z axis to the top, then Level and then do the z-tilt?! Somehow i have the Feeling this could Work Out. 😮😅

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@arturlittmannYes, that's the error indicating the motors are cross plugged on the board inside the printer. It is easier to switch the pins in printer.cfg. I am a bit too sleepy now (it's 4AM) but tomorrow I will try to figure this out for you.

[@robertkeyes258]

can't enter samples:result in newest firmware

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Can you please clarify which part of the video are you refering to?

[@robertkeyes258]

@@gerGoPrint3D kzbin.info/www/bejne/pH_Mm62pjL91fZY

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@robertkeyes258 Thanks for the clarification. It's entered as samples_result: median (with an underscore character between samples and result, not a colon as you mention. The colon is after the word result. This is an important setting, because we don't want the average making a bad measurement skew the result, but do a bunch of measurements e.g. 5, and pick the middle, most likely correct value)

[@robertkeyes258]

@@gerGoPrint3D OK I think that's what I did but I'll try it again. Have you used the newest versions and had it all work in accordance with what you posted in the video? Which I appreciate, BTW. This printer is a lot different than the Stratasys I used to own.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@robertkeyes258 Computers are dumb, they can't get over even the tiniest typo we make ;)

[@5doolar]

this works for sv07?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

100% of this works on regular SV07. Only make sure to set the first layer test size to 220 x 220 at 27:08 Everything else is the same!

[@MsCalibro12]

CHE SLICER USI

[@DJMishaGrin]

I do not have samples _results

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Just add these 4 "samples" lines in the [probe] section: [probe] pin:PD13 x_offset:27 y_offset:-20 samples: 3 samples_result: median samples_tolerance: 0.01 samples_tolerance_retries: 5

[@DJMishaGrin]

@gerGoPrint3D thank you for your reply, I don't see those lines.

[@DJMishaGrin]

@@gerGoPrint3D I see [probe] Pin: X_ Y_ And that's it

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@DJMishaGrin You have to add them :)

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@DJMishaGrin Yes, the stock printer.cfg only has those under the [probe] section, so you can add the samples_ lines yourself, this will improve the probe accuracy. When the lines are not there the printer uses some default settings, if you add the lines you are overwriting the defaults. If you don't like the new behavior, you can delete the samples_ lines anytime and go back to the default behavior. But this is a recommended change, I haven't seen any disadvantage of it.

[@pah1of284]

So followed all the instructions, but just got a gooby mess of plastic :(

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Keep at it! Videos like mine can only go so far, I wish I could flatten the learning curve completely. Trial and error is the way to go. If you do manage eventulally, please leave a comment for others in your shoes, what did the trick for you...

[@pah1of284]

So, I THINK I figured it out - for some reason my bed heater shuts off when my extruder heats up - the bed temp status goes to 0 and keeps dropping while printing. I checked the wiring - it looks ok - sort of lost what to check next. Thanks for the help - hope your channel grows exponentially!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@pah1of284 Maybe your slicer is configured worng? Check your filament setting what bed temp is set for it?

[@pah1of284]

All I've tried to print is the bracket for the cable that came on the USB drive, it either slides the pieces everywhere or so much "stringy" stuff it ends up in a pile. Had a friend with a SV06 come over and he gave up. When I set the bed temp to 70C or even 60C it gets there but once I set the extruder to 200C the bed heater turns off and won't come back on. So far, no reply from Sovol support

[@pah1of284]

Oh, I'm using Sovol filament I ordered with the printer - not the white reel that came with as same friend said it was awful - considering buying a different filament

[@mr2_2zz]

just need a good mic, I can't follow half of what was saId!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

thank you for the feedback I made this video a year ago since then I upgraded my setup, check out my newer videos, they should be much easier to understand. However I added manually transcribed subtitles to this video too, so that should help you understand. Others did not have such trouble, so maybe you could also look into improving your play back system. But you are right, sound in this first multi camera video is worse than my other videos.

[@whatsgrowingon]

What kind of laptop is that?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Lenovo Yoga from 2017