Spark plug Hole Repair 3

Brilliant video, if you put a washer on the spark plug so it is wider than the insert and then screw the insert in with lock tight the washer will stop it going any further.Wait for the lock tight to dry remove the plug, flare the top using the tapper tool and then reinsert the spark plug, That way you will not need a boroscope . But thank you very much excellent tutorial,

Because the washer would be wider than the threaded coil and stop the plug going further in.

[@russellpolarisfiddler1511]

After the thread lock dries, and you take out the spark plug, if the washer is in there, how will the tapper took work, will it work to tap it??

[@robeftyearian8760]

Thats a great idea us poor people has tobuse whst we have

[@richardmuhl3027]

And if the steel washer falls off the spark plug while removing plug retrieving it can be done with a telescopic magnet.

[@robsetzer7162]

Great vid, after trying a few times to get the insert to start with the rubber hose I placed a 3 inch piece of hose on a Philips screw driver to keep the hose straight and it worked perfectly

[@baxrok2.]

This was a masterfully made, thoroughly detailed, and incredibly useful video series. Most people have no idea how difficult and time consuming it is to make a video series like this. Thank you for taking the time and effort to make it and most of all for sharing your expertise with the rest of us.

[@realfixesrealfast]

+Baxrok2 Thanks for your comments. And for recognizing the effort and time in making these videos. It's comments like yours that keep me doing them

[@1speedybill]

I bad a spark plug blow out on me yesterday, I watched all 3 of you videos as well as several others, I purchased the kit you were using & easily repaired my truck, Thankx for the excellent video that gave me the confidence to do this repair.

[@timmiller1226]

Very informative. Ive been fairly uneasy about performing this repair foe a couple of days now. After watching these 3 videos, i feel more confident. Thank you sir.

[@boosted2.4_sky]

My sav-a-thread kit specifically says to use high temp RTV. ...it didn't say anything about using Loctite...btw... this is the best, most comprehensive video on this subject that I have seen.... nice work! thank you..

[@brian_youtube]

I did not comment on parts 1 and 2, just this one. As you mentioned in your video, the use of the grease is not teaching some people. But you were correct in that it was nice to see how the other end responds with and without the grease. Having done this procedure without removing the head, you really hit all the points very well. I would add two things to the process. First is to blast compressed air into the cylinder to blow out any shavings that may have fallen in. Second is to then spray parts cleaner into the hole liberally, then again use compressed air again to blow it out. I also use red loctite on the bottom of the external insert threads and red gasket maker RTV on the upper external insert threads... and let cure for 24 hours before final insertion of the plug. That is just what I do, and the reason why is that it has never failed so no sense to change if it works.

[@realfixesrealfast]

great observation. thanks for your comments

[@keithbassett4988]

Ty for such a detailed and informative video. You took a project that at first seemed overwhelming and beyond my scope and made it possible for me to fix my own spark plug blow out. I wish more people that posts 'how to' videos would take their time and explain things the way you do. Thank you for your wisdom and delivery. Your video was very helpful. 👍👍

[@realfixesrealfast]

You are welcome, glad it helped. Thanks for commenting

[@JTKrysto]

I have to attempt this tomorrow in order to save my truck you gave me the confidence to stand up to the task! 😅

[@briankelley7918]

i taped my spark plug hole with grease worked great i made sure piston was not in the way but i bottom out on some thing and strip my new threads know i need new head . keep on looking down the hole over and over make sure you don't do the same thing. found out there are bigger inserts out there bigger then 1.25 so you can tap it again. good video.

[@hydrofuelincanada]

Another tip. after I blow out the remaining debris, I start the engine to blow out any remaining pieces. Excellent video by the way.

[@serno-renovaties]

Good one

[@manonmars2009]

Well done and thorough video. As you were working, I was asking myself questions about what happens here, what do you do next, and you answered them all. Outstanding.

[@AaronsAutomotive]

another great tip instead of using bearing grease you can use dielectric grease and no need to clean the grease out of the spark plug hole for the coil later and any little bit that does get into the coil will help with the electrical connection when its all re installed later.

[@realfixesrealfast]

+Aarons Automotive That's a great suggestion, thanks for adding it.

[@jordanmpaul]

The bearing grease wouldn't hurt the boot either, however I wouldn't want any grease on the threads of the insert. It would compromise the lock tite that I would be using

[@humbleservices6418]

Thank you for the very informative videos. I've always used the grease trick and it works great to keep shavings out of the engine, if you are patient. The hose tip is a new one for me, and fantastic. Grade A+ work on these videos!

[@0401xavier]

Thank you sir for teaching this old dog new tricks... an excellent teaching method you have....KUDOS!

[@mohamedhesham1907]

Frome my country EGYPT , I like to thank you sir very very much ,Good explanation.👍

[@N9IWJ]

Just a note for a cheap scope camera like your snap-on For Android phones you can get one on eBay for around 20 to $25 The scope camera plugs into the phone then you have a app on your phone you can view what's going on and it also has lights in it I use it all the time for looking in barrels in guns

[@fortuner123]

Well why didn't you feature that in your video!

[@N9IWJ]

@@fortuner123 I made a comment I'm not original poster

[@spelunkerd]

That's a nice demo! I"m surprised they didn't design the custom insert to have a top lip that prevents installing the insert too far. The best design would make it impossible for the tech to make a critical mistake.

[@KUNZR11]

They do.

[@edzo29]

Some designs do indeed have a lip on the top.

[@jordanmpaul]

The Cal-Van kit is superior to these tiny cheap insert kits.

[@dutchleussink156]

👍

[@dutchleussink156]

Thank You Sir!

[@nino18654]

Great video . Good detail by detail . I have watched all 3 videos to the end . Thank you very much for for this video .

[@realfixesrealfast]

I'm Glad you liked it. Thanks for commenting

[@oljames1687]

Excellent video Sir ! You have explained this procedure in great detail, better than most of the presenters here on KZbin. Thanks !!...

[@mccatdaddy]

great video! I'm doing this job on an 01 5.4 this weekend, and your idea of threading the insert in with the hose solves the 1 thing I was very worried about, which was doing too deep. thank you.

[@JavierSN95]

Update?

[@PaulAliceJ]

Great video. Thank you, sir,​ for taking your time (lots of it) to make the detailed video.

[@gertis7420]

This guy is a genius. Great video once again.

[@tomb375]

Great Video! Thank you for all you great tips and tricks over the years!

[@siskiyouwoodsman4279]

Outstanding video, and if adhered to should help many backyard mechanics from exacerbating an already serious problem. Kudos for taking the time to illustrate the procedure so well. I'm a retired Cat mechanic and have used the grease procedure many times for both drilling and taping operations. I find myself volunteering to help a young friend who has cross threaded one of his plugs, so I thought I'd check the tube to see if there were any new tricks out there and I see that old school is still the best solution. The way you shot your video made it very clear that one needs to do this in increments to prevent overloading the flutes with cuttings. I have to say that this is the best hands on repair video that I have seen on KZbin. Kudos!!👍

[@realfixesrealfast]

Thank you for your comments and observations. I appreciate you time to send a comment

[@wysetech2000]

Very well done series, Duane and nice to see your videos again.

[@vanwall56]

Partner, thanks for your EXCELLENT video, very much appreciated. I plan on watch ALL of your video's.

[@bryanconley6562]

Great video. It worked very well. I didn't have a bore scope but I found a way to set the insert even with the spark plug ledge without it. Simply screw the insert just below the spark plug ledge. Using a flash light, Insert a small flat blade screw driver and rest it on the spark plug ledge with part of the blade sitting over the insert hole. Then turn the tube counter clockwise until the insert stops on the screw driver and pull the tubing. It was set perfectly even with the ledge. I needed a long thin flat blade because my holes were recessed 6" or so.

[@caudlem]

Great workaround for not being able to use a bore scope - Thanks for the tip!

[@jj0rtega]

I rented a bore scope from Auto Zone for free, just had to pay a deposit in which I get back when I return it. Now I'll got to get to work on it.

[@turtlezed]

I've watched a few of these vids now on spark plug hole rethread/repair and you have clearly fine tuned that process to work for you. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge and tips ;¬)

[@-MrRichBiker1967]

Definitely deserves a subscribe!!! your videos are sooooo knowledgeable!! very enjoying, watching you progress through your how to videos, love them! I am inserting a sert with a sert that backed out, the previous taped ( HD sparkplug hole) they do not sell a "big sert', for my M12 x 1.25. So this is my only method, to go back in, with GREEN loctite...and pray!! lol. ty again!!

[@Thunderroad8517]

Great job Dwayne. Really appreciate the time and effort to explain about the depth. Your video is very thorough. Thanks for your extra time to keep us from making a costly mistake and keeping us informed. Glad to see you back.

[@roro560v8]

thanks for your time , we need more videos like that your channel one of best on youtube.

[@realfixesrealfast]

+MoH ALO Thanks, I appreciate your comments

[@richmac918]

Excellent video. Using the grease to catch the shavings is a great idea. As you mentioned, it's virtually impossible to prevent every little piece from falling into the cylinder but I'd guess you eliminated 99% of them and hopefully what does fall in will exit through the exhaust port (hopefully). I was thinking you could use the spark plug to seat the insert but as you pointed out there is a danger to doing this.

[@DTRAX33]

out standing teacher, love your vids

[@iceman3451]

Watched all 3, excellent job!

[@N9IWJ]

Again thank you very much fantastic 3 videos to really show how to do a helicoil

[@MarioDallaRiva]

You're a Master, Duane/Dwayne (apologies for the spelling)! Good to see you back 👍🏻

[@pablomarquez4431]

You're a genius duane! I'll do this if I ever run into this problem.

[@abdelwahebessaihi7083]

Thank you for an excellent video, very well done. Clear step by step explanations make it easy even for the beginner to understand and venture into the big scary world of serious engine repair. Keep up the good work!

[@Usmanthemecano]

Everything was diy friendly until the borescope

[@andrewyek]

u can easily buy those cheap china made usb endoscope from ebay.. but the focus is terrible as compare to this one.. i have one.. focus of close object such on the face distant is terrible, otherwise is ok.. what do you expect from a china made thing right ? lol. at least for now.

[@KUNZR11]

Or count revolutions as you install the insert.

[@bobhumplick4213]

you can build up duct tape on the spark plug or put a washer on it right up against the replacement coil and it will not let you go too deep. plus you can get cheap bore scopes

[@rudyfelixxxcruzzz3575]

Sakeenah Auto Solutions I swear 😂 when he busted it out I was like fuck!!!!! 😂

[@midnightrunner684]

@@rudyfelixxxcruzzz3575 Yeeee lordy

[@miketruckermike292]

Thank you and i have subscribed! This was very helpful for us DY guys especially for us who have never repaired a spark plug hole before. I feel now I can attempt this on my 65 HP Johnson outboard boat motor. Thanks again , great information!

[@jackmusic500]

What an excellent video. This old timer knows his stuff! Thank you sir. cheers

[@192ali1]

Excellent demonstration. Very nice of you for sharing your knowledge with us, much obliged.

[@tonycotta6602]

You sir are the best .But now there is a safer way to do this job it is called the CalVan 38900 kit it is so much safer to use it has a line up tool and a air tool to make sure that you are bottom dead center to make sure your valves are closed so when you blow out the chips it do'es not put it into your valves and it lines up your reamer and your tap it has the inserts that stop at the top of your head opening just remember to use heavy duty lock tite to keep in there for 24 hrs. then your all set.

[@ike6867]

It's probly been 30 years since I had to retread a spark plug excellent reminder

[@wildventures8409]

Ingeniously done Sir! Learned a lot from you.

[@daleslover2771]

Excellent breakdown step by step I'm working on two heads I have 1960 292 Ford cast-iron heads, somebody removed the spark plugs out about 50 years ago. Expose to the elements.A couple Spark plugs holes threads have been eroded. I wonder if the procedures are the same?

[@markjones9935]

Great job. That took a great deal of time to make a proper how to video. Perfect

[@MrHunter6]

Great video, thank you for posting and taking the time to put together such an informative video. Now I'm off to repair a head on a Toyota forklift using this method. thanks again

[@paulettepier5526]

You may have already been called..'.Doctor' (Surgeon) realfixes because watching your videos and all the things you use sure reminds me of a Surgeon !!!! But, seeing all this and watching it again, getting all the items I don't already have...I believe even I, a 68 years,,lady can do it !! My 1994 Ford F 150 (which just had a rebuilt transmission installed..around $3000)...I thought I'd have a neighbor do a tune up on it....what happened???!!! the first spark plug broke off !!! I then had a dear friend that is a mechanic, offered to finish the job..but he too could not get it out so easily. He "had to drill it out"?? and had to put a smaller plug in it..and it still has the bad miss it had when I drove it to his shop, just a few miles away.....so, when I get it back to my place and weather permits..I think I will try to (re-do) the drilling & such. (It was running fine....until ....(the tune up option)...any ideas you can suggest will be greatly appreciated !! Thanks so very much for your videos and your time, clearly showing and "teaching" all who are in need of this information !!!

[@realfixesrealfast]

I appreciate your comments. I wish I could help over the internet but this job must be done in-person. It is a challenge, but what in life isn't? Good luck

[@shaggyda2758]

Very nice video! Thank-You for taking the time to show us how-to-do-it right! I would be worried that 20,000. klicks later changing -those plugs without locktite the insert moving.

[@GunnyNinja]

Put the socket on a known good plug that is tight and put a mark on extension where it lines up with the valve cover. Screw the insert down to that mark.

[@guidoramirez3676]

Otra manera de hacerlo es tomar la medida desde el reborde la culata donde asienta la bujia con su arandela hasta la altura del borde exterior del tubo o tapa de valvulas (en el orificio que se reparará) , luego enrosque el inserto con su pegamento y tome medidas regulares hasta su borde superior (donde será que asentará la nueva bujia) hasta quizas un 1mm antes de coincidir, luego el martillado final dará la altura exacta final, espere secado y listo.

[@mikeperry7074]

Good video.your the man.saved slot of greef and headache.

[@lauriestuart3962]

I don't have an endoscope either and I'm thinking if Loctite/adhesive is on the insert the camera lens might get some on it blocking visibility and or the threads might push the adhesive up so you can see top of insert where the "kerfing" is. I'm not sure if the guy responds to his comments if so I'd love to hear if this has ever been an issue or problem for him getting his "eye" dirty or loosing the top in sealant. I need to do this on my Honda this weekend as 2 out of 4 of my spark plugs holes need helicoil fast. I have a bunch of different sizes of dowel rods that I can trim to any length and are straight. I'm going to use the washer idea for a "mechanical stop" at the top of the insert and wrap the end that goes into insert with duct tape to grip the insert. That way I can pull out like he suggested but am scratching my head at how to attach the washer so it doesn't move and loose its place. A small nail above the washer in 2or 3 places right above washer might be good. Suggestions???

[@samd410]

You are the best on KZbin......thanks

[@bigdredre3725]

ASE certified and learning everyday thanks for the knowledge and the tips

[@jamesellis5549]

excellent video and also a great reason to buy a chevy.ram or toyota

[@pauldean41]

Nice job on all three videos. Thank you

[@jj0rtega]

I wasn't able to see with the bore scope while the rubber hose inside but I was able to see it once I removed it and able to put the hose back in to adjust the insert. I was working with the #3 spark plug and not easy to access and see anything. I rented a bore scope from Auto Zone for no charge ( just had to put a deposit down). I also used the bore scope when installing the plug to ensure the insert wasn't moving.

[@davesministry7789]

Excellent, very patient, the constant installing and removing of the grease is very good to se, to insure it must be done. Good job. Could you use an old spark plug gasket to stop the insert from going in to far? Or a wider diameter washer, might be better. Just hard to find.

[@midnightrunner684]

That looks like a lot of work ..Good Video

[@vincescalise4821]

the rubber hose trick is just what i needed fantastic

[@hungdeep08]

I had some difficulty threading in the insert into the cylinder since the rubber hose was not straight enough. So the trick I used was a rubber hose 1/4 in ID and 1/2 in OD and put a 1/4 in diameter stick (Marshmallow Roasting Bamboo Stick from Target/Walmart works perfect) through the center of the hose to make the hose straight. Threading the insert was so much easier. I also marked the hose and counted how many turns the spark plug took to thread the entire insert, then counted the same number of turns into the cylinder to get very close to being flush. Also let Locktite 272 (Heat Resistant) cure overnight before inserting new plug with Anti-Seize.

[@vincescalise4821]

simple but sounds effective

[@yanetnunez8074]

Thank you so much for this video series. Great idea to video both sides for comparison, like a cut-out.

[@MikeFra87]

Thanks for the video, I am doing this today I have every tool shown in your video, Whish me luck !!

[@BrandiDanielle84]

Mikefra87... How did it turn out for you?

[@JavierSN95]

Update

[@harozippo29]

@@JavierSN95 buy a calvan kit way better then these kits

[@martystevens3969]

Those insert kits can have the inserts to come out if you don't tighten the plug enough. The swaging tool sometimes doesn't allow for enough swing in the hammer. That can cause loose inserts. Use a Big-sert! It locks in. Put Loctite high strength on the insert. Tighten the plug lightly and then wait for the sealer to dry. Then remove. Most people don't have a borescope. Those kits can work IF it's done right and if you have enough swing on the hammer.

[@JVanHarlinger]

You are a DIY master!!! Thank you so much for your time!!

[@castledomeknives9395]

Great video... when i do it on vehicle...i use the grease...then vacuum,with a small vaccum tube attached w duct tape..then blow..repeat

[@originalswolfsburg9889]

Patch Ster or use a magnet

[@fieldsofomagh]

Great detail and good lighting and camera.

[@realfixesrealfast]

+Tom OConnor Thanks Tom, not everyone notices those things. I believe the detail is what makes the videos most helpful. This was a very difficult video to make because I did it all myself, sitting things up, arranging the lighting, sound, changing the camera angles, etc. It actually took me 10 hours of video shooting time and then about the same in editing time. Thanks for noticing.

[@IvanHernandez-tn1rw]

+realfixesrealfast dang 20 hours total? i applaud you sir ..i apreciate it all your efforts and time..i hope one day i can be as good as you

[@gereral1_jackofalltrades]

If you torque your spark plugs this should not happen? Also is it a good idea to put anti-seize on the threads of the spark plugs to make them easier to remove 48000 klm later?

[@KUNZR11]

It is a shitty Ford design. They should have just made the threads longer.

[@markchidester6239]

@Fly-Away in my 35 years of wrenching on my vehicles, I have done just what you said not to do and have never had a problem with any of them. Best part is that parts come apart.

[@H20H20]

Great video breakdowns no doubt. I had a quick question. Can that threaded piece sit permanently without lock tite? The reason I ask is because I tried test fitting it in to see if I threaded down enough and well I can’t get it out now. I tried multiple times getting it out with the spark plug but it won’t budge. I guess that’s a good thing only part is I didn’t provide lock tite. Should I just leave it in and just use the provided tool to hammer it down, so the teeth lock it in.

[@TheMontanasv6]

super video! If the insert been in wrong position (upside down) and what tool could be used to get the insert out if not remove the cylinder head?

[@johnmcclelland6872]

I have found that when installing the insert with the rubber hose you can insert a 1/4" drive extension into the hose. It will keep the hose straight and also give you a better grip for threading the insert.

[@realfixesrealfast]

Great suggestion John, thanks for adding it in.

[@RaoulThomas007]

Great video series! Always the best!!

[@mikepark19561956]

Great video but I have the flat seat type plug without the knurled end.I believe these are torqued in and I don't know if there is a different tool involved.The flat seat insert that came in the kit only fits flush on the plug if I take the washer off. I also don't know if this type uses RTV or Loctite.have not been able to find much info on this.I have a 22RE motor BTW

[@brettb.7425]

Thanks for the idea to make a pedal pusher. Great idea!

[@DaveSender66]

It's good to see you making these videos again thank you. Very nice of you for sharing your knowledge with us, much obliged. Happy new year Duane !

[@GOrdonGREENleaf]

what a great teacher you are...thanks for this video. if you are still monitoring this, what particular loctite do you recommend. red, green, blue?

[@realfixesrealfast]

Red is NOT right for this job, Blue is the choice

[@paulnovak1459]

Could you put a small washer on the plug threads before the insert to keep it from going into the head to far? Then use a magnet to retrive washer after removing plug? some plugs have washer on them. Great video. I haven't checked yet, but good chance I will have to do this on a 97 F150 I bought cheap. I thought I had and exhaust leak but sounds just like your intro. I'm going to check as soon as it warms up outside. Thanks.

[@michiganborn8303]

Too bad they don't have a bore scope that has reverse angel view so if someone had to do a job like this with the head on,they could use the reverse view to make sure the insert didn't go in too deep. excellent video and how you were able to explain the process step by step.

[@colinlynn4524]

great video. I have a suggestion that may enhance things a bit more. At the end when you put the tiny air hose down into the chamber, why not also put a very thin rod down the hole liberally coated with grease. That way any residual filings will get stuck to the greased rod without the need to depend on them being thrown back up the hole. Then remove the air hose first before removing the thin greasy rod so you don't knock any filings off when withdrawing the greasy tiny rod.

[@realfixesrealfast]

Great suggestion. Hope everyone takes note.

[@ozzstars_cars]

nice job. It would be nice if they made the inserts bottom out in the cylinder head so they could be set to the correct depth without guessing.

[@coollasice4175]

+Ozzstar It would be even nicer if FORD didn't make such a bs design.

[@ozzstars_cars]

+Cooll Asice Agree that the flawed design was corrected after the fact. Now that the problem is no longer in the design there are lots of other probs on newer models. LOL it will never end with the manufactures relying on profit from the service side of things, they make to much money fixing there own junk!

[@dcomputers]

+Cooll Asice Fix Or Repair Damage

[@coollasice4175]

F.O.R.D......it took me a second. lol

[@Mahigeer1]

Thank you for the explanations.

[@KStewart-th4sk]

Using grease is nothing new for anyone working in the trade but it is a good demo for anyone attempting something like this for the first time. How is Loctite affected by the heat once the engine is running as far as sealing the threads or helping to keep the insert locked in place? I don't see those knurls or bumps doing much of a job for locking the insert in place when the threads are straight cut and that tool is tapered to expand the insert. Someone else on here said that kit was junk and their's loosened and failed! I am assuming it was installed correctly though.

[@YAHAWAHWATCH]

Grate video .. Very helpful thanks

[@philippeloiseau166]

What you demonstrate applies only to spark plugs with a tapered seat. The ones with a gasket seat remain wider than the insert, allowing for the common method. Would you agree? Thanks for the great video. I did subscribe.

[@realfixesrealfast]

yes you are correct and they are the most common

[@donwilson9086]

After blowing the shavings out of the cylinder do you use your bore scope to see if they are all out ? You may have I fast forward it from time to time.

[@rbarr1200]

Excellent series ! Any idea if the loctight will last the remaining life of the engine?

[@JuanPedroPaloma]

Thank you for the great video. I have a 2 cylinders 2 strokes marine engine. There was a helicoil (wire type) in one of the cylinder that was leaking so I wanted to replace it with a save-a-thread sleeve type helicoil. The threads were already made from the previous helicoil wire but I used the tap anyway to clean the threads. After inserting the new save-a-thread sleeve, the spark plug is still leaking. I think the hole is not perfectly perpendicular with the face of the spark plug. Any opinion/solution?

[@johnkenny6698]

thanks very helpful and detailed I've been waiting for more videos from you keep them coming great job

[@garlandhorelica9363]

How do you remove the spark plug insert if you put it in too far?

[@Carl-eu6ns]

Great Video! The only thing I don't quite understand is taping with a hammer. I would think it would damage the threads. Is that flaring the top of the insert, or driving it in? Thanks

[@DBLDREW]

is the thread pitch the same as the time-sert or the calvan inserts? If so rather then spending $200-250 on a calvan tool kit. buy this cheaper tool but use the inserts that have a lip so they dont thread in to far.

[@johns.1041]

Feb 15 2019 Great Videos! I just finished Replacing one based on these videos. The shop told me the engine need to be pulled-not! My suggestion - have 2 plug sockets and 6 inch extensions (esp if plug is in the back like mine was). remove the rubber gasket from one of the sockets keep it in the other. Electrical tape each plug socket to the and extension really well but not on the round diameter of the socket. Use the non-gasket one final tightening and torquing - otherwise the gasket may stick to the plug and .......take out start over..... I would like to use a crush washer on the plug to prevent the plug from going too far in. Any suggestions as to getting one size number anything? Thanks again! John

[@danthompson4879]

Loctite 263 says, parts fixture 10 minutes, fully cured 24 hours. Would you wait 24 hours to run the engine? Love your videos and your attention to detail. Thanks from a new subscriber.

[@realfixesrealfast]

yes because the heat of combustion needs to be considered.

[@danthompson4879]

@@realfixesrealfast just a note to ppl, make sure you get a tap that accepts a 3/8" extension. Mine only accepts a 19mm socket and the spark plug hole only accepts a 17mm socket. I cut off the 1/4" end of a 3/8" to 1/4" socket adapter, and welded the 3/8" end on to the tap. About to find out if it works. I should have better listened to the brand you used in your video.

[@brucel.6078]

Fantastic instruction!!! Thank you!

[@tech270154]

thanks,great vid. can you torque this spark plug same as the other plugs ?

[@theoldwizard998]

No DIYer, and even a lot a small garages, won't have a bore-scope. any other suggestions on know how far to insert the insert, like counting the number of threads on the outside of the insert ?

[@hungban44]

Buy the scope you can connect it to a cellphone. Costs like $20.00 on Amazon.

[@jj0rtega]

I rented a bore scope from Auto Zone

[@alexnoviy5396]

How about engines with four valves per cylinder. Is this tap will not damage the valve seats when cut a bigger hole for an insert?

[@eddiejames2905]

Why doesn't the insert have a flange to prevent it from going further inside the head than it should? Also, should you clean the newly cut threads before installing the insert with lock tight to ensure it cures / bonds properly?

[@garyvancollins6762]

Well done. Good job.