IDEAL Sure Test Circuit Analyser Demonstration and Review

[@mostlikelywedoitservices6926]

Excellent demonstration Sparky. You sold me I am buying it. I been dragging my feet due to the cost. But you showed me for the cost and the value. It is a tool I need. Thank you.

[@joedillon159]

Sparkman is the best! Always teaching us new and better ways to be safe! I’ve learned so much from him. Love Sparkman!

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much Joe!

[@Esspppiia]

I just bought this over the weekend and finally had the chance to test it out today. I really don't like the stiffness of the extension cord nor the direction of the adapter plug, with the ground prong in the upright position.

[@Marcel_Germann]

The frequency also got a tolerance. Here in Europe it is 50 Hz, the deviation is mostly below +/- 0.2 Hz. You can actually see how good the grid stability is by watching the frequency. If the demand in the grid is too high in comparison to the power supplied by the power plants, the frequency will drop. In airplanes the frequency of the on-board power supply is higher, mostly round about 400 Hz, so they can use smaller transformers. But the disadvantage is: You can't transmit the electricity over long distances with such a high frequency. Here in Germany the trains are supplied with 15,000 VAC with 16.7 Hz (one third of the 50 Hz) from overhead line wires. If the frequency is wrong you sometimes will get such effects like a clock going wrong. For example clock radios or the clock which is integrated into an oven and uses mains frequency to indicate the time (synchronous clock).The deviation on a synchronous clock in Europe was only +/- 10 seconds, and that over years. But in 2018 that changed, we got the biggest synchronous power grid of the world. And in 2018 the clocks had a deviation of -359 seconds! And the cause was: There was a dispute between Serbia and the Kosovo about controlling power range, the Kosovo didn't produce enough electricity, so the frequency dropped in Europe. The thing is, here in Germany the only visible result was such clocks ran slow and indicated the wrong time. Only the radio controlled clocks and the mobile phones still had the correct time. And the battery operated ones of course. The voltage drop is also an indicator if the wiring is dimensioned too small for an appliance with a high demand. If the wires are one size larger than necessary, the voltage drop will be much lower. The drop is caused by the wires in the wall. They are heating up on a high load and changing their resistance and that causes the drop. So you're paying for electrical energy that is not used for your appliance, you heat up the house and the environment arround it. You can calculate the voltage drop if you know the size of the wires, the current and the voltage. I got a slide rule were you can adjust the wire size, the current, cable length and get the prospected voltage drop as a result. And important is also the conductor material, on copper it's different than it is on aluminium. The GFCI tripping time is in my opinion very high when I compare this to the GFCI devices we have over here, it's still within the limits which are permitted, but on the high side. The range is up to 200ms, but in most cases you'll only get between 20 and 30ms tripping time. The GFCI we use here are mostly fitted into the panel to protect a whole circuit, integrated into the outlet is very expensive here. An outlet with an integrated GFCI device is round about 150 Euros (166 USD), but the ones you install into the panel are round about 25 to 30 Euros (28 to 33 USD), that are only the costs for the material!

[@Wowzersdude-k5c]

Here we have different classes of GFCI's. Class A, B, C, D, E. Class A is the standard residential receptacle type as seen in this video and they must trip at 5mA. Class B is the same but with a higher trip threshold (20mA). Class C is where you get into industrial use (300 V and higher). Class D is for 600V or higher. Class E devices have not been invented yet. All of them (except for class A) have a trip threshold of 20mA. (Class A trips at 5mA). The reason the various trip thresholds exist is because 5mA is too low for industrial applications (it would trip all the time). And the reason the 5mA devices have a longer trip time is because they trip at such a low threshold (5mA). They are therefore allowed a slightly longer time to trip. I suspect 200ms as demonstrated in this video is probably about average. GFCI's with a trip threshold of 20mA are supposed to trip at around 25ms I believe. (UL will test all of this before the product is certified for sale. UL writes the standards, in fact). Also, we have tracked statistics here in America since the introduction of GFCI's in 1971. Electrocutions have decreased by 80% overall and electrocutions from consumer products have decreased 95%. Part of this is probably because products themselves are better engineered now, and part of it is because of GFCI's being more widespread.

[@Marcel_Germann]

@@Wowzersdude-k5c Interesting, we got different types too. But the classification is different. Type AC: Can only detect AC fault currents, Banned here in Germany for new installation in 1987. In several European countries still permitted. The UK banned them for new installation this year. A DC fault current of 6mA or more will blind the RCD, saturating it's measuring transformer so it won't trip. Even if the AC fault current is well above the rated tripping current. Type A: Can detect AC faults and in addition to that unsmoothed DC directly from a rectifier. Is necessary since we have more and more devices with a switch-mode power supply like phone chargers and such stuff. Standard type for domestic dwellings here in Germany since the type AC ban in 1987. Type F: Like type A + AC with a frequency up to 1kHz. Type B: Like F + smoothed DC, usually for EV chargers if they don't have a DC protection integrated. Type B+: Like B and can detect AC fault currents up to a frequency of 20kHz.

[@StormyITO]

Just as a reminder a minimum voltage drop is not code-mandated, NFPA-70 suggests it as a good idea and not a requirement.

[@McmM-ck1op]

Just want to say thanks Bill that is a very good meter I just purchased one and it does everything as you described keep the good work up..👍

[@samgalindo8662]

Thanks Bill for all the educational videos you put out for your followers! If possible could you show a video on using the 61-176 Isolated ground adapter and the 61-175 ground continuity adapter please? I purchased the 61-165 Ideal Circuit Analyzer and am learning how to use it. Regards Sam

[@brodymoore2008]

confused why .16 ohms is high. based on 50' run, the calculation that's what it should be. my question is why is the neutral impedance so low if its 50' run.

[@alexrodriguez3106]

Thanks a lot for your video, this gives me an idea what I am going to get, how to use it, etc. I did not see an explanation how to test the AFCI part, is this meter capable to do that? 1 UPDATE: I got the meter, I had trouble testing the G impedance using the Squared D GFCI/AGCI breaker, well I came back to watch your video, and you explained that the GFCI must be bypassed to test the G impedance. Still, when I use ASCC2 it triggers the Square D breaker. I love it, this is what I called "KZbin University." 2 UPDATE: I just did a test on 250F 14 AWG roll of romex wire, here are the results: H = 0.71Ω, N = 0.66Ω, G = 0.66Ω, the H is higher, I attribute this to the breaker. Nothing was in between this roll of wire. One end had the outlet to connect the meter, the other end the breaker. When I checked one wire with the Keysight DMM U1273AX I get exactly 0.66Ω. All three wires report the same Ohms = 0.66. This cannot get any better.

[@stanmcnabb802]

Thank you for the demonstration! Are there any videos that show how to use the Ideal alligator clip accessory for the sure test circuit analyzer?

[@thecapitalalliance]

Very helpful, thank you. I just got one prior to seeing the video, and found the information most helpful.

[@SparkyChannel]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks!

[@haiselie8853]

Amazing video :) that seems helpful, can you do a video about what to do to be an electrician? I know you have to go to a trade school or union but I don't know , I would love a video with some tips for young people like me who wanna start this trade.

[@SparkyChannel]

One way is to just go to your local electrical union hall.

[@DoctorSparta]

My suggestion is to find a school in your area who has an apprenticeship program. When you are just starting out in the profession, there is an education requirement that goes along side your apprenticeship. In the USA, its 600 classroom hours, often split up over 4 separate years. If you are serious about it, enroll your self as a first year apprentice, and ask your classmates/instructors if they know anyone hiring. Already starting your education will give you a good foot in the door, and shows some initiative. My company just hired a guy for that exact reason. Hes an early 20s fellow who has been working in the fishing industry while taking electrical classes in the evenings. He asked around, and once his name got to us, it was a quick decision to give him a shot. My schooling was under $1000 a year, so even if it doesn’t work out, its not too heavy of an investment.

[@mostlikelywedoitservices6926]

So is the meter creating a load on the circuit to be able to give you those numbers?

[@whitetiger8652]

Definitely a great tool to have, Thanks Sparky

[@SparkyChannel]

It sure is, thanks!

[@antonioterrell354]

Same here, ... Wonderful instrument, thanks for the review Sparky ... And wish I could afford one which I see is currently marked down over a $100 right now on sale from Amazon for about $261. But with my reduced finances under the pandemic, still can't do it. 😞 Particularly impressed with this analyzer's ability to detect "false" or bootleg grounds this way and certainly could have used something like this when the electricians rewired my home back in '05 and did this sometimes to fool the standard 3-light testers used by me and the inspectors. Especially considering the total cost of the re-wire job (upgrading from archaic "knob & tube" wiring) was $6500 at the time 😠 ...

[@educationpower1823]

Where do you come up with the .003 Table 8 or 9 in chapter 9 nec gives different values??

[@ccadama]

@Sparky Channel. Thanks for another great review. Question. Have you experienced any problem with the Ideal Sure Test Circuit Analyzer tripping AFCIs when plugged into a circuit protected with one? Hope you and your family stay safe and well.

[@SparkyChannel]

Only when testing grounds for Z. You have to bypass the GFCI/AFCI to do that test. Thanks so much, you too!

[@ED-se2tz]

Hello Sparky, with the GFCI test mode, your video showed it tripped at 118 ms. What would be the maximum allowable trip time for a GFCI before it needed to be replaced?

[@emmanuelny33]

Awesome video as always keep it up Bill love your videos.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much!

[@mountshasta2002]

How does it calculate the voltage drop? Do you have to apply a load for it to read or does it do it without?

[@annruelhomeinspections516]

I have have a 61-165 I bought on ebay a few years ago where can I buy another one? the 165 has the AFCI button too

[@charletonzimmerman4205]

Great, when they coming out with a AFCI, Recpt. TESTER???

[@rockcrusher7000]

i enjoy the info you provide , regarding testers , have you tried the Klein rt310 , reason i asked is . i installed several Leviton afci outlets and the inspector failed my electrical because the meter wouldn't trip afci , manufacture said only the integral test button is required , your thoughts thnx

[@IrrationalBstrd]

There is nothing in the instructions of those breakers that says to use any type of meter to test them, and that it should be done with the integral test button. If it trips and then resets via the integral test button, then they should be considered good according to it's UL listing and instructions.

[@chriscarter3431]

What is high when checking the impedance on the neutral? You showed .06

[@sedona1234566]

Perhaps the hot resistance difference is created at the breaker.

[@Cymaphore]

Thanks for the demonstration - very interesting! Overall I think it seems less suited than a normal-sized multi functional installation tester, since it can't really be used in panels and on bare terminals due to a lack of probes as it seems, and the limited fuse ratings that can be entered. It also lacks insulation testing, as far as I can tell. Also the numbers it outputs in your demo look more or less like rough estimations to me. So I think it's not really a challenger for the Fluke 1662 (or another of the 16xx-Models depending on your needs and what kinds of RCDs you need to test on a regular basis). Beha-Amprobe ProInstall 100 and Megger MFT1800 are fine testers as well. And they can all test Zs without tripping the RCD (Idn 0.03A at least for most of them). I could imagine that the lack of accuracy on this ideal circuit analyzer might make it difficult to clearly identify certain faults like loose terminals, damaged wires or hidden surprises and such. Also they should really consider adding insulation resistance testing I guess, would make sense since it's also needed for final testing after installation. But I have to admit, it's compact, that is quite charming compared to the bricks one has to carry arround otherwise for that purpose!

[@Sparky-ww5re]

This is a very useful tool for any electrician or home inspector despite the 300 dollar give or take price tag, but especially for flipper homes. Bootleg grounds are especially common in flippers and many inspectors will not catch that, because they rely on your typical three light tester, although there are some signs to look for here that might indicate a Bootleg ground (jumper between neutral and ground) : 1) The home was built before the mid 1960s. 2) the presence of three prong receptacles that test as correct wiring, in random places, some are three slot, others are two slot. 3) the presence of old style, fabric braided wiring. 4) the presence of a fuse panel, typically 60 amps.

[@paultanner2007]

Thanks sparky! Great info

[@Ariccio123]

I'm actually curious how this thing does a 15 amp load test without getting glowing red hot

[@cavscout888]

Probably just puts some load, like 1a, and then does the math for you. Mainly a math problem once you get some level of resistance. I THINK.

[@bobbymorino5329]

Gotta get me one. I have a hot and ground reverse I can't find.

[@SparkyChannel]

Sounds good!

[@arthurhowland6821]

Thanks for posting....Art

[@SparkyChannel]

No problem, it's a great and very useful tester. Thanks!

[@johnwithee1091]

can you do 240 volt as well?

[@2kkanish]

I spoke to the engineer at Ideal and Klein Tools. There is no such tool. I assume you work in the pool/hot tub industry.

[@dwaynes5983]

If your checking lines in the home I think that would fall under 220. Two 110 lines coming into home and your checking anyway. For a item that is 220 multi meter should work well. Each leg to ground.

[@jlor7675]

What am I missing? I read .16 Ohm not 1.6 OHMs.

[@drewbush6535]

ordered mine today does alot.. very useful. shared n....ect

[@traviselectricalservices4532]

I see a lot of voltage drop when the oulets are old with loose or bad connections

[@echeverriaemilio]

Thank you!!

[@luislazogue8089]

Hi Bill can you explain me what true RMS means?

[@philklassner2815]

The square root of the Mean of the instantaneous values squared.

[@truthseeker1328]

7.4 mA? A class A GFCI is designed to trip at 5 mA with an acceptable deviation of +/- 1 mA (i.e. 4 to 6 mA) according to UL943. So a GFCI that trips open at anything greater than 6 mA should be considered faulty and replaced. The GFCI is nothing more than an electro-mechanical device with a toroidal coil AKA "current transformer" and a shunt trip circuit which can degrade due to age, exposure to heat, humidity and other factors. Other than than this, a good video demonstrating the Ideal 61-164. Still debating if I should pick up the Ideal 61-164 or the Amprobe INSP-3.

[@drewbush6535]

.16 ohms impedance on hot wire, could it be reading through something thats pugged in?

[@alexrodriguez3106]

How about the breaker?

[@scottparrish2422]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge

[@SparkyChannel]

My pleasure!

[@ghostpepper2484]

Great video, thank you

[@steven7650]

Impedance is the sum of resistance plus reactance

[@ROBERTELECTRIC1]

Thank you . very good video. very helpfull.

[@jaison7828]

Question… when I plug the suretest it turns on then off right away.. what could this mean?

[@SparkyChannel]

Battery dead?

[@nathaniel5208]

Can you do a video on this panel mapper MMJ-MIT747

[@nupurtripathi1537]

Chúc gia đình luôn hạnh phúc.... Được nhiều view hơn nhé !!!! 殺

[@mr.g937]

Why doesn't it check hot-ground voltage? Isn't that useful?

[@mohammaddirani4515]

Thank you

[@SparkyChannel]

You're welcome!

[@johngallati8164]

GREAT TOOL GREAT VIDEO

[@SparkyChannel]

Glad you liked it!

[@johngallati8164]

@@SparkyChannel Great explanation

[@victormartiny7599]

Aweso0me Thanx!

[@SparkyChannel]

You're welcome!

[@bkburg4611]

Hi thanks for this review. Can this analyze the wiring of a de-energized circuit?

[@ThankMani]

I believe the analyzer needs a powered circuit to turn on. It has no power source (battery) of its own

[@SuperVstech]

Mind has afci test function as well...

[@SparkyChannel]

Excellent!

[@La2venida]

How will this be used to find in a circuit in where there are some of outlets that are not working and others are .

[@farmerdave7965]

Electricians always get mad at me when I tell them the average voltage is zero.

[@SparkyChannel]

LOL! Well that's what it should be!

[@MrTooTechnical]

i want one.

[@SparkyChannel]

I hear that! Thanks Dave!

[@spyderx92]

They need one with afci

[@SparkyChannel]

Yes, that would be good.

[@NOLAWAGAINSTIT]

they had one, then they discontinued, don't know why.

[@NOLAWAGAINSTIT]

www.tequipment.net/Ideal61-165.asp

[@SuperVstech]

@@NOLAWAGAINSTIT mine is the 165, and I bet the afci was discontinued because of all the updates to the afci standard.

[@theoisaac3564]

Hi tech

[@SparkyChannel]

Yes it is!