Spezzato: Breaking Up Suits for Casual Menswear Looks

[@LatimusChadimus]

This channel has changed my life! Keep up the great work!

[@gentlemansgazette]

How so?

[@LatimusChadimus]

@@gentlemansgazette well I was raised to be a gentleman by my words and behaviors, esp to be a man of my word, yet this channel has helped me understand more of body language and how dressing well can make somebody appear more friendly, so when I had decided to improve my wardrobe, as well as make adjustments to my work uniform, as I grew up working with needle and thread, I'm definitely more approachable and it has increased my business. I also enjoy noticing some of the things taught in your videos about suit lingo and trends from decades and how things should fit

[@OrrosGG]

@@LatimusChadimus you’re not alone, such a shame the majority of society is coming back to barbaric behaviour and approach, however we seem to be a rising minority, maybe more people and the next generations will understand the old ways.

[@themoderndandy713]

Ralph Lauren may be a fashion icon, but in all honesty, he looks like someone at a novelty event in that picture! It's the more elaborate version of the black tie tee shirt, in my opinion. I can imagine seeing that at some sort of hiking gala with bouncy castles worn by the attendants.

[@fjodorklein3021]

I tend to break up a grey check three-piece suit sometimes by combining it with a brown flannel jacket or a navy blazer

[@jenniferschmitzer299]

Know your checks darls

[@OrrosGG]

Here in Italy, this technique is predominant and so pleasing to the eye. 🎩

[@scrambaba]

It is a fad. In 10 years nobody will do it.

[@neinja66469]

​@@scrambababased on what?

[@scrambaba]

@@neinja66469 based on how quickly it became all the rage and how most people fail at making it work, so people will eventually give up on it.

[@Reziac]

That brown 3-piece is gorgeous all by itself. If I'm going to mix, I prefer the look of a contrasting waistcoat vs matching jacket and trousers. (Come to think of it, that might work really well with Preston's blue and charcoal suits.)

[@truthreigns7]

Most wonderfully accomplished and excellent information.

[@LydellAaron]

I admit, being still afraid to break up my suits. That I can't pull it off with all these colors, patterns, textures, and fits. I had a hard enough time finding a pocket square of harmonious but different color to my ties and shirts. Thank you for sharing this technique and confidence.

[@thegrandobserver4004]

I like wearing jeans with my coat and vest. I always wear dark jeans tho just to make it look decent. So somehow I wear spezzato look a lot and thanks to this video now I understand it

[@GenX6887]

I've learned that odd color suit combos allow you to be more flexible with your sock choices, unlike full matching suits. And I've also learned that it's best to pair your dress clothing as odd color combos when buying them off the rack, since you most likely won't find any exact matching pieces.

[@davidvanhouten5576]

Your channel is outstanding. I'm a new viewer who finds your content entertaining and instructive. Also your products are beautiful. Most importantly, I finally learned how to tie a bow tie.

[@ryanwhittaker5597]

Amazing video with really well thought out content. It’s been a long time since I’ve been so impressed - thanks for all the great information

[@the_9ent]

Auch appreciated video. I tend to find dark trousers and light coloured jackets go very well all year round for any season.

[@Jorvaskrr]

I just like Preston's outfit. It's a very beautiful blend of dark blue, charcoal and dark red without looking garish at all.

[@nicolaulopezespinasa5471]

It would be useful if you could make a video about the do's and don'ts of wedding guest attire. Thank you in advance!

[@isaacsingleton9187]

I love spezzato and I love trying to push the boundaries of it, especially in more formal settings. For example right now I'm wearing something you probably wouldn't recommend: I needed a more formal look, but I don't like the plainness of a solid black suit, so I combined the waistcoat and trousers of a black three piece with a vintage charcoal three button jacket, and a regular white button up with a deep red silk floral patterned tie, and brogued black derby shoes. The charcoal on black breaks the rule of contrasting your outfit, but it breaks up the uniformity while still providing a formal, dashing, early 1900s esque look, that makes you stand out when you wear it confidently. I've gotten quite a few compliments already on it. I've also broken up my double breasted burgundy suit, by pairing it with black trousers, or by pairing its trousers with a dark grey pinstripe jacket, both of which have also garnered attention and compliments. While contrasting is a better, safer look, I think if you just wear your outfits confidently, and maintain a matching formality, you can absolutely pull off less contrasting, more formal spezzato outfits.

[@liamh2001]

I really like breaking up my formal wear. I think it's good for making yourself look more relaxed for everyday situations, so people are less likely to react with hostility. Moleskin jeans or chinos are great for my tweed jacket and I sometimes wear denim jeans with a bright waistcoat in summer!

[@Lassehansen3]

I’ll be honest here because you so often hear that only Ralph Lauren “pulls off” the look, it doesn’t look good at all 😅

[@Reziac]

Yeah, looks like he was in such a hurry that he forgot to finish changing.

[@Lassehansen3]

@@Reziac totally 🤷‍♂️ I just don’t get it that people often says that he “pulls it off” when it just simple doesn’t looks good 🤷‍♂️ same thing with Alan Flusser 😅 sometimes he also wears some questionable combinations.

[@ihopetowin]

It's called "getting dressed in the dark".

[@Reziac]

@@ihopetowin LOL, yeah, that.

[@Eurovision324]

Yes agree but please don’t categorise Italians doing this as the norm , It actually looks messy done in a hurry You want see this way of dressing in Northern Italy , love your shows 🇮🇹⚜️

[@gavinp5940]

Pale blue trousers and waistcoat go great with an ivory jacket

[@mchgw]

Absolutely love how you present, Preston.

[@paulmathers6753]

I've matched trousers and waistcoats from one suit with a lighter jacket, works well with a colour wheel so the jacket is a contrast and/or associated colour.Great in summer with lighter colours, if you can match the tones,

[@mechaphoenix6022]

Nice video. I always liked spezzato.

[@jeffhreid]

Excellent video. Very good information on an advanced sartorial technique.

[@zoukatron]

Mixing three different suits has an interesting parallel in formal wear - morning dress (and its semi-formal equivalent). Unless a full morning suit is being worn, we are usually looking at a black morning coat, cashmere striped trousers, and a waistcoat most often in a dove grey or buff. I think this morning dress presents some interesting lessons on how to arrange things like solid colours, patterns etc. in a mixed outfit.

[@OrrosGG]

I totally agree, the suit had a different purpose in its origin, its uniform appearance with same fabric on trousers and jacket made it the ideal working attire, nowadays suits appear more formal because of what I just mentioned, its uniformal appearance, which with nowadays’ conception we see it as more formal than a spezzato, but to be honest there are some spezzatos with a certain level of formality that has origins from Morning Dress / Stroller, for example a Navy Suit Jacket with Gray Flannel trousers is not as formal as a Stroller but to a certain degree has some formality to it compared to the average spezzato combination.

[@EJSNJ]

Grazie mille, carissimo Preston. 🙏🏽

[@charlescorzine7447]

During Florida's short winter, I like matching my light grey or my dark brown tweed jackets with dark indigo tailored jeans. Then I combine it with a french cuff shirt in a complimentary pastel color and an appropriate hat to create my own version of Spezzato which seems to work out well.

[@jamesR1990]

I tend to default towards this. I enjoy the visual contrast and if you understand color theory it can be visually pleasing

[@robertthorn9560]

More to it besides color; fabric and texturing plays a significant role.

[@zoliivincze620]

My flavorite topic on men wear thank you

[@lankysquibs9128]

I've been waiting for this video. I usually dress up according to the video, but I'm running a fever today, so sweatpants will have to do.

[@1str1ker]

Great video. As a man in my 20s, I like dressing up but find a full suit way too formal. A sport coat with chinos is way better.

[@jonthibault5509]

Nice work! I've been doing this for years with a seersucker suit.

[@robertthorn9560]

Seersucker is about the only exception that I can think of that actually can pull this look off without being too obvious; maybe, pincord will be a second choice.

[@jonthibault5509]

@@robertthorn9560 True. Generally, I'm not a fan of the look.

[@roberthoffhines5419]

Whew, I thought it was taking like, a sleeve from one suit and sewing it onto another. ;)

[@stefanox8908]

That's called Frankenstein

[@davidnorth9390]

@@stefanox8908 --or Frankenzzato?

[@Reziac]

@@davidnorth9390 You win today's Internet!

[@ryanhouk3560]

I bought the same two suit twice, just different colors. One charcoal one gray. I figured i can switch those two around for this reason

[@aromafromheaven]

Great work bro

[@ardentdfender4116]

I enjoy as well like practicing the technique.

[@cristian-rocha]

Very valuable advice. Thank you all

[@bobbywingnut6749]

Thanks so much. You really help. Thanks.

[@D2theShizzle]

Preston's suit in this video looks so baller... well, as usual!

[@fitzgeraldstoner2200]

sport coats are perfect for this

[@marekkarlikowski5421]

Good channel

[@nathanstamper7403]

I’m from Bermuda. So our traditional business attire is in fact a pair of shorts, knee socks and a blazer and tie. To me it has always looked sharper than a three piece suit because it was comfortable and to me more natural.

[@Reziac]

Same, I understand, in Australia, due to the heat. Somehow they manage to wear "dress shorts" with a suit jacket, and make it look good, almost in the way that a dress kilt does.

[@undisclosedperson3871]

@@Reziac It’s extremely uncommon in Australia (I’ve never seen it in the corporate world). It’s simply not that hot in most of Australia (where the major cities are, at least not most of the time). Cairns and Darwin would be the only two “major” cities that have climates to justify that, but jackets of any sort are very uncommon at all there as corporate services work is not a major economic driver - most of the work is tourism or heavy industry so very few people needing to wear a suit to work.

[@Reziac]

@@undisclosedperson3871 I wonder if things have changed. I got that from a special on the topic, but it was like 40 years ago.

[@boltthrower3215]

A good chino can do wonder especially with flannel/tweed jackets and vests.

[@papajahmani]

Good stuff!

[@guidovrola5231]

We use Spezzato a lot here in Italy, but almost never with a waistcoat (in fact, it looks weird to my eyes). If we use a waistcoat for a very sophisticated look, it would probably be of a third color

[@Boselaphus]

I love olive waistcoats, I have a double breasted dark green waistcoat and I am enjoying it.

[@ramanshah7627]

I came here after getting exercised about the whole Steve Harvey 75-outfit spezzato schtick, and after watching this...I feel about the same as before. It seems that spezzato can get you some decent mileage, but not much. And if money and closet space were any limitation, it would be much better to save some of your budget for good casualwear (dedicated odd jackets, jeans or chinos good enough to wear with them, patterned garments, seasonal materials, knitwear, especially casualwear jackets) than to overbuy suits and hope to spezzato your way through casual social occasions.

[@letsplayavecalnos751]

bow tie are cool.

[@Carlos-ne3zf]

I received a pin stripped orphan jacket as a gift, been trying to find what can I use it with. Been thinking a pair of kakhis or beige chinos for a semi formal event. Saldy is true that is hard to find a way to make it look balanced

[@Manuel421]

I think it looks fantastic either way but truly curious for a solid Charcoal and a Medium Grey Glen plaid pattern "Suit Separate" jackets do you think they can be dressed well with Chinos and Trousers? I'm sure it's mostly preference but just interested in your perspective on the matter. Obviously I wont break up my shiny Dark suit though as it's too formal.

[@floydblandston108]

With suit separate jackets and pants, think 'preppie'. Brooks Bros used to do some lovely tropical worsteds that paired well with any less structured lower, but don't mess up on the shoes!

[@Manuel421]

@@floydblandston108 Not to brag but I'm a pretty classy guy so no worries about prep style. I do appreciate your input though as that's what I always strive to get through here is valuable feedback. In my opinion I think a suit seperate jacket can still look good without its matching pants as long as the fabric isn't too shiny or too formal where it would then look a bit out of place you know? My pants are neutrals so Greys, Tan, and Blues nothing too colorful like pink or even red at the moment. I definitely plan on purchasing a few more sport coats later on for more versatility. What shoes do you feel are suitable? I have leather penny loafers and leather Cap Toe oxfords which do feature a tiny amount of broguing. For shoes I plan on adding a suede brown derby. I do have some colorful garments though since it does get extremely hot out here.

[@floydblandston108]

@@Manuel421 - my general rule is that formality peaks at the top, and if there's to be a transition headed down, keep it as linear as possible. No one would wear dress oxfords and a mohawk, but even your derby might be finished with some leather sandals if appropriate to the occasion.

[@Manuel421]

@@floydblandston108 I'm not a high school or College student anymore so no worries on the mohawk lol..even then that wasn't even my style but again I appreciate your feedback. Also I keep everything simple so not to complicate the fashion rules. Suede Derbies can be dressed up or down easily wouldn't you agree? I would pair them with Chinos or Trousers. I only keep 1 pair of jeans but I've slowly been phasing them out of my wardrobe in all honesty.

[@giuliogatti1667]

Can I make a breaker with a cotton jacket and wool pants?

[@DaddySantaClaus]

i just got a beautiful harris tweed sports jacket it's easy to match brown

[@t.j.johnsonthewriter]

can i wear a grey suit trouses and jacket, with a brownish/black waistcoat??

[@Artexmadera]

How about Corduroy jackets? Any thoughts on those?

[@Momo_Kawashima]

Gentlemen's Gazette anthem being like: Some people dress 'cause they like to get dressed; But you just dress to get dressed. It's only a hunch, but I bet you a bunch: He wears suspenders, a belt, and a vest. >From the tip of your toes to your head... You look like an unmade bed. You've either got, or you haven't got style; If you got it, you stand out a mile. A flower's not a flower if it's wilted; A hat's not a hat till it's tilted. You've either got, or you haven't got class; How it draws the applause of the masses. When you wear lapels... Like the swell of the swells... You can pass any mirror and smile. You've either got, or you haven't got... ....got, or you haven't got... ....got, or you haven't got style. You've either got, or you haven't got style. ....got, or you haven't got style; If you got it, you stand out a mile. ....got it, you stand out a mile. With mother-of-pearl kind of buttons... You look like the Astors and Huttons. You've either got, or you haven't got class; ....got, or you haven't got class. How it draws the applause of the masses. When you wear lapels... Like the swellest swells... You can pass any mirror and smile. You've either got, or you haven't got charm; ....got, or you haven't got charm. Style and charm seem to go arm in arm; ....seem to go arm in arm. A flower's not a flower if it's wilted; A hat's not a hat till it's tilted. You've either got, or you haven't got style; ....got, or you haven't got style; ....got, or you haven't got style. If you got it, you stand out a mile; ....got it, you stand out a mile; ....got it, you stand out a mile. When you were those duds, Those with black-tie and studs, Watch those dolls lining up single file. You've either got, or you haven't got... ....got, or you haven't got... ....got, or you haven't got... ....got, or you haven't got... ....got, or you haven't got style..

[@ryanwolfe8578]

I was thinking about a brown/yellow hounds tooth waistcoat with a navy suit... Am I crazy?

[@jamesranson8693]

14:35 Gangsta! 👍

[@arthurwellesley1815]

I love the gentlemens gazette and i have a request can we get a video about youre hat collections please

[@DiggitySchwag]

It’s already been made

[@arthurwellesley1815]

@@DiggitySchwag whats it called

[@vaderdust]

I understand that this channel is more about formal and classic menswear, but I work in Silicon Valley and generally am the best dressed person in my office. It’s mostly T Shirts and jeans at my workplace (pre-Covid of course). I typically wear a button down shirt, cotton chinos and brogues to work. I have been experimenting with the untucked look lately. It would be great to hear your thoughts on this trend. Good or bad?

[@benmoore7946]

convenient with the expanding wastelines of the covid age.

[@vaderdust]

Would that were the case, at least with me. 😂 I’ve actually lost weight over the last year. A lot more time for me to run. I also practice 3 different martial arts; Wing Chun, Muay Thai and Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, all of which are massive calorie burners!

[@simonyu8838]

Oh hey, it's a west coast version of me down to the Muay Thai and BJJ. In my experience, the untucked look really depends on the shirt and the pants to a lesser degree. Some button downs are too long to wear untucked, some too short to stay tucked comfortably. My normal rule is that if the shirt is too long to see at least an inch of the fly of the pants, it really should be tucked in. Both shirt length and the rise of the pants will play a role in this.

[@benmoore7946]

​@@simonyu8838 You two should meet!

[@damodarpande2329]

Brown is best for sports jacket

[@burtonurquhart3141]

For a Men's Wear site that stresses' fit. Can someone take Preston to an after-market tailor? As none of his clothes fit his unusual frame

[@freshpressedify]

Raphael's spezzato outfits often look stuffy, I think it's because of the tie and the double breasted jacket combo. 9:16 doesn't work, 15:33 this works

[@Dallen9]

I'll disagree on the pin stripe Spezzato. the Key to Pin stripe Spezzato is either creating a seamless contrast shift like a dark with light pin stripes to light with dark pin stripes or you match the tone(light or dark color) of the pin stripes to the pants color. Pin stripes and Spezzato is tricky and difficult to pull off so for the brave it'll always be a challenge.

[@jmichaelkilpatrick6982]

I combine a dark bluecotton

[@miloszbaldyga7354]

Next video idea: How to look like a classy gentleman while ascending Mount Everest!

[@benmoore7946]

Didn't you already do a video on this topic? Is this a repost? Not complaining, just trying to understand.

[@nizarbenhmida9578]

Does light blue Blazet work better with beige pants or mustard-yellow pants ? Looking for quick advice hope someone will see this comment kinda urgent..

[@marioe6696]

Sven getting a friendly handful at @6:37

[@dandiehm8414]

Another excellent Preston video. I understand the concept, but I have to say that I don't think Preston is pulling it off well. The blue jacket doesn't contrast enough and with the patterned shirt, patterned tie, patterned pocket square and the boutonniere it just looks confused, like he was trying too hard. I realize this is not his natural style.

[@floydblandston108]

My Mother's typical comment on similar choices was 'did you get dressed in the dark?'

[@balabochur]

Id like to see a video on Bermuda shorts..... Am I right? So formal

[@jonthibault5509]

Is that picture of the Italian guy in the beginning Gianni Agnelli?

[@CoolChevere]

If you’re referring to the gentleman at 1:09? That’s Lino Leluzzi.

[@jonthibault5509]

@@CoolChevere Thanks.

[@shivampatel1683]

He never blinked in this whole video....

[@vividius7951]

so basically you've become a little more prosperous shall we say and can only wear the jacket and waistcoat with chinos (happens to the best of us)

[@darkfoxbill9657]

Any advice for somone who can't wear anything even remotely close to the neck (a tie) due to certain military related mental issues?

[@britannia2129]

A pocket square can be a good tie replacement - something interesting and more formal that shows skill and attention

[@alans.4167]

I agree, pocket square. If you want something to break up the shirt you could also do a vest or sweater vest.

[@Gilamath.]

Agree with a good pocket square. Depending on your triggers, you might also find use for a good-quality wool turtleneck sweater. Have you looked into bolo ties? They can be worn more loosely than neckties or bow ties. But, of course, you’re the only one who can judge feels safe and comfortable for you

[@Gilamath.]

Agree with a good pocket square. Depending on your triggers, you might also find use for a good-quality wool turtleneck sweater. Have you looked into bolo ties? They can be worn more loosely than neckties or bow ties. But, of course, you’re the only one who can judge feels safe and comfortable for you

[@sisujamsa2099]

3:51 Where did you get this jacket. I'm looking for a similar jacket but can't find one anywhere. Also, Great video!

[@Myepicapple]

RL Purple Label.

[@sisujamsa2099]

@@Myepicapple thank you

[@theviolinist9040]

I keep trying to find coat brands for bigger guys, any ideas anyone?

[@Arisawa_Heavy_Ind]

Looks like I'm the only one who thought that the video was about suits to wear when for you break up a relationship

[@Myepicapple]

Sorry Preston, the outfit of this video is just plain bad.. Odd vests often times work, but odd jackets? No.

[@Mocha_122]

I understand what he was trying to do but that blue and charcoal grey didn't look good. I'm fine with odd jackets since if paried well people can pull it off but the outfit worn here looks a little bland. Its hard to describe but visually seeing it doesn't impress and in fact I find it look a little tacky probably also because of the bow tie and boutonniere.

[@user-iu1ru1qz7u]

Agreed it looks terrible lol.

[@crystalheart9]

I never did care for the suit jacket with jeans look. Especially if the jeans are the worn out looking type.

[@Allofthempowerful]

16:04

[@TdyYrLove]

@11:06 - short pants with no socks is not a good look.

[@gentlemansgazette]

Not one that we'd typically endorse, to be sure--those images were just meant to represent casual, Italian-influenced style. As we often say, "to each their own." Thanks for watching! - Preston

[@danbee415]

My problem with spezato is that the men who have adopted it has not done it for the sake of the nonchalant attitude. They do it for peacocking. I like it as a concept though for convenience sake. So a broken button here and there shouldnt stop you wearing a jacket thats in good condition

[@paulaltman9751]

A suit jacket or pants is made with specific material and it is difficult to make it look intentional when worn with a blazer. It usually looks like a design mistake or that you didn't have the correct pants available. Also, lately it seems to be the style to wear the jacket too tight with much pulling away at the button which is buttoned. Even Tom Ford always does this and others are copying the look. Not a Good look...

[@Dark_Lord_Mr_B]

I usually wear my black suit with my dark blue waistcoat. Works well for me

[@1218Draco]

Seeing a dark blue pants with a grey or brown coat, my inner Italian wants to pair that with a fedora to match the pants so it “sandwiches” the match together

[@LatimusChadimus]

15:58 🤣

[@freshpressedify]

Preston's outfit is over the top, either get rid of the bow tie or the boutonniere

[@zoltankotolacsi6892]

Unbeknonwst to me I actually recently used the spezzato. I attended my significant other's college graduation (in my country the invited parties are not required to wear formal) wearing a white shirt with blue and silver turkish pattern necktie, a light gray (almost silver) suit jacket, dark washed blue jeans and medium (?) brown leather shoes and belt. I felt like a million f*ckin dollars and had the time of my life, so I definiatly recommend you guys to try spezzato out.

[@uber_chbeb]

If you want great sources of inspiration for spezzato looks, go take a look at Luca Rubinacci’s Instagram.

[@johnnyblaze2257]

What this guy is instructing men to do in this video is equivalent to wearing a suit vest with a white t-shirt Ed Norton Style.

[@johnnyblaze2257]

@@TheSultan1470 ummm Yes!

[@hamburgermat]

I can’t wait for my ascension into well dressed territory, I’m all giddy! Edit: typically I just wear button ups with t shirts with khakis or jeans, and rarely shorts for times when I can not at all stand the heat

[@diobrando4063]

WHO IS THIS ok good video

[@jungeunji8289]

Poor Preston

[@lorenzomedina6220]

Mezomix

[@danbee415]

Don't wear tight chinos with a suit jacket. It looks absolutely terrible and I fell into this trap due to my large quads. Get trousers that flatter your legs alongside with your upper body. Invest in quality dress pants, don't go cheap on it. Wish I knew this at the start. The chinos I had fitted me, but when you have a fitted comfortable jacket, with thightish chinos it looks like a school boys outfit.

[@mxderry]

At first, I thought these were suits you wear when you break up with someone...

[@jenniferschmitzer299]

I indulge in my sprezzatore e mei a non importante a tutto And my bad grammar lol

[@jenniferschmitzer299]

Isn’t it whatever you chucked on?

[@gplusgplus2286]

Blue-black denim will work with mostly any suit jacket.

[@Sadsoft]

This dude looks like he actually reads romance novels. Never knew this about suits. Cool

[@liamfoley9614]

It's not that I only wear bespoke clothing it's just that all my suits happen to be bespoke and fully canvased. I also have a selection of odd jackets and trousers ... It sounds as if they're trying too hard.

[@Axer01250]

Just dont mix wool and linen.... its in the Bible! 😂

[@firstlast-mx3kl]

Why am I here I'm a girl.. 😂

[@robertthorn9560]

Knowledge is powerful think; insightfulness or being able to read a person is a necessary skill, especially in today's make believe world of hiding one's true self.

[@floydblandston108]

If women knew how to dress themselves there'd be no such thing as fashion. ; )

[@firstlast-mx3kl]

What y'all talking about? I'm just here because I admire these gentlemen and curious to see what gentlemen do