Spindle Removal

Removing the spindle from the headstock of a Southbend Model B

[@atothek1804]

Thank you This video is good to take this into account, even if a disassemble target lathe does not have a South bend 9". Because based tips how take it out say (example belt) process cannot escalate in to the level of disaster.

[@robwhelan8064]

Thanks for posting this very useful video. I have a Hercus 9A lathe, basically a South Bend Clone manufactured in Australia. The main belt broke, which was an unusual green coloured belt with a dinky little connector that fitted into holes in the belt. I could not find a replacement easily and your video inspired me to attempt the removal of the spindle. I found a 925mm belt at an auto parts store that fitted perfectly Thanks for the inspiration, the job went just as you described so well. Tthanks for the idea of using a threaded rod - the only thing that I did wrong was to use some softwood that crushed under the load until I found some much bigger washers. Next time the wooden blocks will be hardwood. On my lathe the little key for the bull gear had two small chamfers on the leading edge that made mating the key and keyway much easier Subscribed, looking forward to your other projects

[@speedbuggy16v]

Thanks for the vid, I was in the middle of getting ready to test run a new to me 9A and found enough little things that I said to heck with it and have started tearing it down and repairing and replacing worn or broken parts. This helped a lot!

[@yanwo2359]

Thanks very much for the detailed information on removing a spindle. I'm about do that on my lathe. Your instructions are much better than those in the rebuild book I have.

[@vintageeveryday2020]

Thanks a lot for this great video. I'm about to disassemble my first SB-9 headstock. You've given me some confidence. Thanks again.

[@jimm2442]

Thank you very much! The information you provide is very much appreciated. I've gone off the deep end and seem to have a lathe hoarding problem. Started out with a Craftsman 618, then A Logan 10x24, followed by another Logan 10x24 without the quick change gear box, and now a recently acquired South Bend Model 9A that I am fully restoring.

[@potechopz]

Hey Halligan, I have watched your videos and love them. They help a lot. I am restoring an old 9C. Keep up the good work!

[@Gloveman009]

It's good to see you back. Thanks for a very informative video.

[@george330ful]

Thank you Sir this is the most informative video I have seen about my lathe and something I have been wanting to know ,again Thank you!

[@Dan.Whiteford]

Good to see and hear from you again, I hope the house move is going as well as you hoped (-nothing is ever as simple or perfect with these matters in my experience!). Excellent video but I think you will find if you look at the video again that the rod was turning in the nut on the LH end when you were trying to tighten at the RH end. I suggest locking nut and spanner on the LH end to hold the rod still while the nut was being tightened. However we clearly understand the principle of the puller and as you said it has to be better than beating on the end of the shaft and damaging it. Well done.

[@Halligan142]

Thanks! Oh there was nothing simple about this house. Funny how you don't see these things until AFTER you buy it. All the upstairs painting is done, new floors and my furniture should be coming soon so we are well on our way. I put a nick in the threads od the rod at that end. I figured my nut would bite into the wood and not turn past the damaged threads, but it didn't.

[@tdg911]

Very clear instructions, great video. Thanks for posting.

[@kenzpenz]

Hello again. I am still in the process of trying to determine the source of the rattle coming from what I thought was the pulley system, because upon taking it apart I found the holes where the bull gear pin engaged was slightly elongated. I bought another pulley on E Bay and that one fits much better, plus it no longer binds up when adjusting the bearing. I did try to duplicate the noise by moving the bull gear and pulley and the old one made a serious clicking noise. Well after going through all that, the noise continues. What I did notice in this video of you taking your head stock apart, is that it took considerable effort on your part to get the thing to break free. I also watched the other video of you putting it back together. The bull gear seems to be very tight taking it apart and putting it back together. On my lathe all it takes is a couple of wacks with a rubber mallet and it frees right up. Putting it back together requires very little effort and I am using the same setup as you used. Here I go again grasping at straws trying to find a solution to the noise. I plan to buy another bull gear a give that a try, what are your thoughts on that. Don't you wish you were selling me parts for this lathe. E bay and I are on first name basis. Thanks again.....Ken

[@Halligan142]

It is a decent press fit, but unless that bull gear is really floating you should be ok. When I first did my original refurb I had a clunk going on in the rear bearing every once in a while especially on heavy load. I was able to eliminate it by adjusting the take-up nut and installing a thrust washer under there instead of the fiber washer. The take-up nut had to be decently snug to eliminate the noise.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Thank you for the information on removing the spindle! I too want to put a continuous belt on my SB and was/am having trouble getting the spindle out. When it warms up, I'll give it a shot.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Unfortunately, my 9" South Bend still sits in storage....

[@hersch_tool]

I just picked up 2 SB9s in a mixed pile of rusty parts. I know there’s one good whole lathe in there and I’m binging your videos in prep for the project of combining them into frankenlathe. These vids are fantastic! Thank you! Side note, it should be possible to modify the lead screw of a 9c to interface with gearbox from a 9a right?

[@Halligan142]

If you just want it to be connected to the gearbox then yes. It would need the collar moved and would need to be machined to the correct length, threaded on the end, and a keyway cut to mount the gear. Not exactly simple, but doable. If you want to use it with a model A apron to have power crossfeed and traverse by a starwheel instead of the half nut, thenn in theory yes it could be modified, but it would require a keyway machined along its entire length which is impractical.

[@mikeadrover5173]

Outstanding disassembly! I have just bought. A ‘South Bend lathe’ I am chomping at the bit! To get this lathe up-and running. Any information you can give me regarding restoration would be greatly appreciated. As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~

[@marcoantoniomejiamedina8539]

So much for not wanting to take a hammer to it 😆 bro it a piece of well made machinery, it’s not a baby. No one said to bludgeon it to pieces with a hammer I’m sure of that. It’s ok it took me some time to learn some stuff and I’m still learning and won’t stop learning either.🎉

[@crookedriver2079]

Very informative! I get a lot out your videos! Thanks. I have a 1956 SB Model 9A. Where does one obtain the big size micrometer dial on the compound rest?

[@Halligan142]

These were bought from a man that deals in SB parts. Don't know if there are any left but his e-mail is [e-mail]

[@engelbob8402]

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I recently bought a 10K South Bend (1978 mfg.) and will be going completely through it once the weather warms up. I have the manual from Ilion and assume the 9A and 10K are very similar to refurbish. Can you think of anything I should be aware of with the 10K that might get me in trouble?

[@Halligan142]

+engelbob Nothing really out of the ordinary. The 10k is basically a 9 inch with a 1 inch riser. Just be careful on your accessories if you buy them. There is a height difference between a steady and follower from a 9inch as compared to the 10k. The steady from a 9 will still fit the lathe and you can use it, but you will reduce the capacity of it and the jaws will not be in the center of the rest when you center the part.

[@pinkeye00]

I'd probably put a big fat washer on the end of the spindle to keep the wood from biting in. Might save you the whacks.

[@rsmandujano]

excellent video, I have a question, what is the purpose of the whole piece that you play at minute 26:56, I mean the piece with the gears?

[@Halligan142]

Back gears. Adds a gear reduction to the spindle to slow it down.

[@HSHess]

Wonder if McMaster Carr would have those ball thrust bearings? The offer several dimensions.

[@lastmanstandingwtsht]

Hi great video,what do you think about using MOLYKOTE G-n metal assembly paste to grease the cone pulley and back gear its a molybdenum disulfide extreme pressure grease. In torque and wear tests on acme threaded actuators it exceeded all other lubricants. Thanks for any input.

[@jamcat62]

Almost makes you want to buy some ratcheting combination wrenches, don't it? :D Great vid! I just missed out on buying an old Atlas/Craftsman lathe on craigslist. Which is a good thing, as I don't have a place to put it. :( Not that I need a larger lathe yet. And I wouldn't trust my brother with it! :)) Thanks for sharing!

[@gohuskies583]

Halligan, or anyone: Do you know where to buy the replacement felts that are shown in this video at 20:50? Thanks

[@Halligan142]

gohuskies583 search eBay for Southbend felt or Southbend rebuild kit. They'll come up.

[@richardlee2919]

Why would you put so much stress on a casting? I just warmed up my Bull Gear with a propane torch to the point where you couldnt keep your hand on it and it tapped apart real easy with a dead blow hammer.

[@crookedriver2079]

I don't think it's that much "stress " on the casting...all he did was make a simple puller...works like any other puller...all the force IS AXIAL so really there's hardly any force acting perpendicular to the spindle bore axis. Not any different then when the bull gear was originally pressed on at the factory...the same so-called "stress" was used at the factory.... Secondly look @ 29:00 , he talks about the bull gear pressed on the spindle only at ONE location. so you are not putting any "stress" on the casting. The spindle "floats" in the casting. ( BTW ....start thinking !!)

[@JShel14]

Is that thrust bearing still super hard to find?

[@Halligan142]

Justin If you're talking about the original ball thrust bearing , it is a proprietary bearing. While not extremely super hard to find, your only source would most likely be eBay and it can get a bit pricey.

[@tdg911]

Dang... I left a comment here 10 years ago lol.

[@simoncrabb]

Tamiya Bismarck!

[@Halligan142]

Damn good eyes! Got that from that one section of instructions eh? Take it you've built one. Mine's still in the box :-)

[@OzyOzySM]

HI Halligan, thank you for your last input about my headstock, it's helped my to start looking for getting replacement for my headstock better than spending all $$ and time to fix it! BUT I just found one of these www.cedar--rapids.com/Industrial-Equipment-/Wellington-Heights-/Communication-and-Networking-/South-bend-lathe-headstock-casting-serrated-bearings.PHP it dose have lines in the bearing just like what you explained in this video. but my original headstock is just like yours, so is that found (with splits) will be good replacement to my bad once? thank you sir