Splicing Wire 101 - Wire Terminal Basics | Ep: 10/14

[@11Bretired]

Excellent video. Thank you!

[@pwrrushadventures]

great vid. one thing you forgot to mention is that on lever nuts by wago there is a test port on the top you can verify power without having to remove the wire. This is very beneficial especially if you're testing 120v

[@recoblade1465]

This is what KZbin is for because I didn’t even realize that that’s so cool

[@spaddriver1957]

Thanks, Nate, for these instructional videos!. Though I've been an R.V. technician for years, I have learned or been reminded of many techniques that improve my skills. I've been saving your videos to use as reminders of proper electrical system building skill sets. Now that I am building my own trailer electrical setup. I've been referring back to your videos to make sure I do the work properly the first time. Don't want problems down the road when it will be much more difficult to fix them!. Thanks for the effort you put into these lessons. 👍

[@ricklarson114]

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question!!

[@BenEaddy]

Great, succinct video, Nate

[@dagwood1327]

I concur. And I think that is important. Great content.

[@rod8073]

Another great video! Thanks Nate! 👍

[@timf6916]

Good information

[@Augiebracerofam]

Great information. I recall another type of splice method. "Posi tap connectors" Similar to the crimp butt connector, however no tool is needed to close the connector. Thank you for sharing and have a great day

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I think that's less of a 'splice' method and more of a vampire connection where you're trying to get a voltage signal to power a relay. I've never used them; but if I was trying to get a 12V signal from, say, a headlight wire to power a relay; I'd definitely give those a shot.

[@frankshort1448]

I remember when you first showed them lever nuts.I bought some for a build i love them

[@christianrauh5292]

What do you recommend for splicing/extending 8 AWG cable for 24V DC load?

[@colindavis_1974]

Worth noting that, per ABYC, DC splices (wires carrying Direct Current) can be ‘anywhere’, while AC splices must be done inside some sort of junction box that requires a tool to access. This is a safety requirement.

[@pwrrushadventures]

its a requirement in the NEC as well for 120v splices. They must always be accessible.

[@wjhann4836]

I'm always complete with you. Let me add some remarks: - Wago: They lately added some small boxes where you insert one or more of these and the box is sealed up. - butt splice. Since the times of amazon and chinese stores offer more cheaper offers a buyer should always make sure he will buy a heat shrinking version - perhaps in addition one with glue on the inside. - solder seals (right?) - here also you should look for a good brand - if there is no or few flux in it you may fail. In addition to Nate's remarks I am always afraid if the wires are not perfect new and clean. I only want to accept a solder connection if I can inspect my work - not possible inside those.

[@joesmythe8232]

Thoughts on "overlap connectors" - Electronics International OLC 1 or OLC 2 for small wire? Starting to see more often in aviation electronics. Can be shrink tubing covered if needed.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I've never used them; but they look to be twice as expensive as Wagos with no added benefits.

[@joesmythe8232]

@ I think smaller size - comparible to a butt connector, and ability to shrink tube them could be useful. But cost can be a factor on some builds. Really like your video content. 👍

[@EXPLORISTlife]

At that point I'd just say to use the crimp butt-splice connector like shown in the video as it'll be even smaller (not much bigger than the wire) AND 4-5x less expensive at about $20 for a jar of 100.

[@DaleBenner-d9j]

How about your opinion on western union splice and solder or heat shrink? I will say it works much better on solid wire than stranded.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

It's tough to beat what's shown in the video.

[@Gary-um8bp]

As always an amazingly clear, concise and informative video. Can you advise how to junction (1 wire to 2 or more wires) or splice (1 wire to 1 wire) outdoors (i.e. on roof to wire two lights to one switch)?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Given it's a DC circuit and doesn't have to be in a junction box; I'm just going to use butt splice crimp connectors for that.

[@ricklarson114]

What about splicing two wires of different size? I've had to splice very small (16awg) wire to a 12-14 awg.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

For wires smaller than 10awg; Lever nuts, for sure.

[@SilverFlint247]

What about the nut connector that you crimp. The RV industry is using it all over the place. How would you rate them?

[@donreid358]

Those are fast and cheap but not very good. It is very easy to have one wire not go quite all the way in to where the crimp happens and then pull out later. You can't inspect for that although you can do a pull test on every connection you make.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Good insight!

[@therook17]

What if you’re just tapping into an existing electrical system (ie: into the vehicle’s side lights)?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The best option, if available, is a fuse tap at the headlight fuse. There are vampire splices for signal wires like that, but those tend to corrode. I’ve used them, and they are fast and semi reliable, but I don’t love them.

[@fu4616]

"I'm not judging you...." at least not out loud. 🤠

[@jake-mv5oi]

How about scotch locks? -5?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Is this a reference to our instagram story rant about two years back? 🤣😂

[@jake-mv5oi]

@EXPLORISTlife Haha, no. I'll have to check that out :P

[@GK49245]

Good video. We mostly use crimp wire connectors with a nylon cap, like those by Ideal or Gardner Bender. You did not cover those. We can connect wires of different gauges. Requires a specific crimper, and these are UL-listed.

[@shubhamkumarsingh1874]

Hii