Sport Climbing 🧗‍♂️ | DAY 7 | Full Replay | European Championships Munich 2022

[@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog]

When she’s done climbing, Molly definitely has a career in broadcasting. It’s a real joy listening to she and Matt commentate on the comp.

[@PamStucky]

I don't love the bouldering format of having multiple people out at once during a final. If they've made it that far I want to be able to focus fully on each of them as they climb each route. I hope whoever makes this decision will reconsider that format!

[@RobertEMD]

agree 100%

[@Josephreed66]

What's 1 more hour on top of 5 days? Give these athletes the spotlight they deserve!

[@joebobst8423]

And messy to follow and keep track of ranks. Administrators always gotta make unnecessary changes to make their jobs feel important.

[@TristanCleveland]

Agreed. And if they're going to do it this way, split the screen down the middle, not into two thirds.

[@danrspen]

Me: “Wow did you see that move!” Wife: “No, what was it?” Me: “Wait which one are you watching” Wife: “Left” Me: “Oh, I was watching right, you missed it”

[@smuir6104]

I think the women right now are way more fun to watch than the men! Janja is amazing!

[@pink_water_melon]

Such a shame for that 1 slip on boulder 4 taking away the perfect 200pts score. Go Janja! You are and will always be the GOAT!!!!!!!

[@clairebivore]

Overall I think that the format and scoring system is good - much better than the last Olympics. The only two changes I would like to see are : 1. During the bouldering, have the athletes come out one at a time like in a regular bouldering final. 2. Give some score (even 0.5 or 0.25 points) to the first section of the lead route. Right now, if someone falls on the first move of the route, or someone falls on the move before the 1 point holds they would get the same score, even though one person did many more moves than the other. This would be especially relevant if it was a harder lead route that saw some low falls.

[@b0604]

Seems like a good format. Maybe some small tweaks could be made (eg. I'm not sure a single lead hold should be worth 50 attempts on a boulder), but really anything is better than a format that includes speed climbing. Also Janja is incredible as always.

[@wookie19822007]

I think it makes sense - progress on a climb is almost always worth more than attempts. It's a way of making the primary scoring system climbing and attempts secondary, but integrating it into a single score instead of having a complicated system of tiebreaks.

[@stephantom8237]

@@wookie19822007 Yeah, and I like that idea but it might be worth pointing out that they did still have a lot of ties. A couple of the athletes basically had identical scores and they had to be broken by going back to their qualifying scores. But maybe that was an issue with the routesetting more than the scoring system. The boulders and routes for the single boulder and lead championship semifinals and finals seemed much harder and had better separation among the climbings. It could be described better as "who fought the hardest won" more than "who messed up the least won", and I personally prefer the former. (I totally get why it if they wanted to make it easier because it was following those events and because by the simple fact of being a combined event, the athletes will be more tired, but I think they missed the mark a little).

[@TristanCleveland]

I'd like to see the first holds worth at least a point, or even .5. If two people fell near the beginning, but one climbed further, it would be bad if it meant nothing and it came down to that.

[@Schrodinger_]

@@wookie19822007 So you think if a climber flashed all boulders, and another climber got all the boulders after 49 attempts, but got one hold higher on the lead wall near the top, that second climber should win?

[@wookie19822007]

@@Schrodinger_ No I was talking about the way the bouldering scoring works here, sorry if that was confusing.

[@donkyuhbuhts540]

This woman has got to be the most dominant person to ever exist in a single sport. Insane! Also hope she isn't hurt!!!

[@Tiarawatches]

Happy with the new format. The podium places are now solely dependent on each individual’s performance and not on their competitors like the rank multiplication system with speed.

[@idle_lunacy]

Janja being a boss Boulder 1 40:27 Boulder 2 1:21:47 Boulder 3 1:38:34 Lead 3:02:34 Interview 3:13:07 Medal ceremony 3:19:55

[@pongwiboonma]

A competition for 2nd place

[@karinalopez3422]

Those mats were brutal

[@calmelbourne]

I'm not sure I like the first 30 moves of lead not being worth anything. I think it would be better if they were worth at least something.

[@laszlopanaflex193]

The race for the Olympics is going to epic. Some much talent, and spots in speed and lead/Boulder won’t be wasted as they were in the 2020 combined format.

[@elbigotesdelatienda]

KazbeLove! 🥰

[@hairtoss7975]

3:08:12 - The Creation of Janja

[@b0604]

Wow the interviewer at the end is awful lol

[@nickr8979]

3:11:34 I thought they'd been given a wheelbarrow each!

[@rlclips9497]

Absolutely creazy how janja got a score of 199.9 out of 200

[@wookie19822007]

A fantastic competition. Interesting to see a few comments about the format and scoring system. I think overall the organisers have done well, but scoring and format is fun to think about. If I was going to change anything about the scoring I would wonder about: (i) Making every hold on a boulder a "bonus", so every move is worth something. This is especially relevant where the routesetters read a route different to the climbers, or don't anticipate a crux, which does happen sometimes. (ii) Making the scoring relative, so that the lead route scoring per hold depends on how many other climbers have touched or used a hold, and similar in bouldering... perhaps getting to and using a hold few or no other climbers get to (even if not a top) should be worth more than a top that many climbers achieve. This would be complicated to implement but I think it's worth thinking about long term, as a way of taking the subjectivity of the routesetters out of the scoring a bit.

[@stephantom8237]

I think I agree with you about the bouldering scoring. It would be good to consider more possibilities than what the IFSC has been doing the last several years. The Rock Master 2022 had an interesting approach sort of like what you're suggesting, with the judges rewarding the boulderers for their relative success/progress on a boulder (I don't love the "elimination style" for each boulder sequentially though--but I think it wouldn't be too hard to translate that into an overall score instead of elimination).

[@allanhee]

Maybe add a bonus if a climber was the only one to top a boulder problem.

[@TristanCleveland]

Really? But 2/4 boulders were far too easy and the lead route wasn't challenging enough at the top. Don't you think the route setting was bad?

[@smuir6104]

Hanah's biceps are so huge! and cut. I really thought she was going to get boulder #3

[@michaelaxtmann]

Brr, multiple climbers on the wall in a final is just not good. Threefold splitscreen, seriously? Filming behind the wall feels very invasive. Especially when the camera man goes near the athletes it seems like it distracts them very much. For example when they stand in a circle discussing stuff, and they have to "open" the circle to let the camera man "join" the group. Points in lead and bouldering arms not be worth the same. The spread between the best climbers in lead is much larger than the spread between the best climbers in bouldering, thus, lead discriminates the final results .

[@Schrodinger_]

Strange that zone attempts don't factor at all if you made it past the zone. If two climbers both take 2 attempts to do a climb, but one got both zones in their first attempt and the other got neither, it wouldn't matter. They both get 24.9

[@Finimabob]

Not really, the second climber still flashed most of the route, they both messed up one move, they both climbed in 2 attempts. Maybe ones stronger on slabby coordination moves at the start and the others better at stronger slopers further up.. either way they both deserve the points

[@mountainhobo]

Is combining boulder and lead because Olympics do not want climbing to take two spots?

[@ejaymydj]

I mean it combined 3 before (speed, lead, boulder)… I think it kinda makes sense to have a combined lead and boulder. I wouldn’t think it has anything to do with time/slots because you’re doing it either way right? It’s not like doing one and not the other makes it a much shorter event?

[@mountainhobo]

@@ejaymydj In World Cup circuit those are individual disciplines, and even though boulder and lead are much closer to each other than to speed, they still involve different skillsets. Still, I am glad they are becoming more popular and we can watch them.

[@tivonsadowsky3025]

They had separate boulder and lead competitions earlier in the week. I think they may use the same format for the Olympics with medals for boulder, lead, speed, and combined (boulder/lead)

[@ejaymydj]

@@mountainhobo I totally misunderstood your question. I thought you meant why is the olympics combining them 😂 from listening to the commentary though it makes it seem like they want to test the scoring system and format. Completely agree I love watching climbing!

[@elnoquad3666]

actually in Paris, climbing will take 4 spots, one for lead, one for bouldering, one for speed and one for the combined (lead+boulder)

[@cheznikos]

This format only works if there's at most one top in the lead. Jessica pilz deserved a chance to finish second and she was denied that. Also just way too easy for Janja all of it. She must be really bored only having to avoid a big mistake, and not being able to show much of her talent.

[@TristanCleveland]

Agreed.

[@allanhee]

What happened to Laura Rogora?

[@anthonydagostino9889]

This format of having multiple climbers takes away from the drama of focusing on each climber for each boulder. Terrible!!

[@monoman4083]

split screen is bad..

[@КОСТЯНТИНМУРАХОВСЬКИЙ]

💪🙏👍🙂❤🇺🇦 Доброго вечора !

[@mountainhobo]

A bit of a bad luck for Hannah Meul in the end. If not for that fall should could have taken silver. Still, fantastic performance from all.

[@biamoreira4019]

Maybe she would have benefited from a harder boulder round, she didn’t get a big separation from other climbers that aren’t as good of a boulder as she is

[@Mitzbergatc]

how is that bad luck?

[@uyenle9809]

Well, as I see, she was too tired so she just skipped to clip the quickdraw and tried to go as fas as possible and she fell. That was not a bad luck, she tried her best

[@ashpowell9451]

The clapping....

[@eyeswideshot7347]

REplay=PLAY "ra"

[@mmakid]

for multiple tops in lead, they need to rank the athlete by finish time : giving advantage to athlete who rest less , more fluent and finish faster.

[@muuschty1337]

no, being good at resting is a skill

[@biamoreira4019]

But resting is a big part of climbing! Finding the good rests and timing the route so you can be as fresh as possible

[@mmakid]

@@biamoreira4019 if resting were encouraged,the time limit would be cancelled long ago. Climbing faster and safely is a better skill than finding a spot to rest

[@mmakid]

@@muuschty1337 however climbing faster and efficiently is a better skill to evaluate than resting in international competition

[@mmakid]

Being good at resting is a good compensation or exchange for lacking stamina and strength, which is more important for what this competition is about

[@steventimoney7751]

the clapping is rather annoying when you watch online. right?

[@withakiwiontop]

no.

[@TristanCleveland]

This was the worst climbing comp I've ever watched. The lack of hard routes was an insult to these athletes. They need to hire more female route setters. Also, the crane operator needs to stop drinking. We're here to watch people climb, not a flying camera. Could hardly pay attention to the action.

[@Mitzbergatc]

Matt must be the least informed commentator ever. Man if you read the Rules Manual, the -0.1 is per attempt but for each section. So if you flash zone 2, but fall 9 times trying to get the top and never get it, you still get the 6 points because the zone was flashed. If you were to top after 9 falls, then you'd get 24.1. The minus 0.1 is only to tries to the tier (3/6/top)

[@robertd5558]

Him and Charlie were the only consistent commentators for climbing events. Besides the random pros they have guest commentate you really can’t get better. If he got anything wrong I think he deserves some slack, they just implemented this scoring format… But what exactly did he get wrong compared to what you said? And does flashing anything but the whole Boulder even matter anymore? From my understanding no matter where they fall they get -0.1. So if they fumble the start before the first zone and then top the next go they get 24.9, but if they fall right before the top and then top the next time they also get 24.9. I could be wrong though?

[@melk1352]

@@robertd5558 That's assuming that they top the boulder. If they don't top the boulder but flash to second zone they'd get 6 points, if they took two attempts to get to second zone they'd be awarded 5.9 I guess. Which in the context of the whole competition matters. Edit: I much preferred Charlie as a commentator over Matt. It just feels like Charlie always came more prepared and was more accurate most of the time. Matt makes a lot of mistakes that add up over time including athletes names, scoring, accomplishments of athletes, little facts here and there (like when he said Janja forgot her chalk bag, she didn't, it fell at the beginning of her climb). However, I do have to say that he seems receptive to criticism and seems to genuinely make an effort to be better. Kudos to him for that.

[@Mitzbergatc]

@@robertd5558 He got wrong that he was expecting an athlete to get 5.9 (instead of 6) for falling while reaching the top. But that would never happen because the Z2 was flashed, so the score would always be 6. The athlete finally got the top in next try and therefore got 24.9, but Matt kept thinking the score was only updated at the end, without understanding that the -0.1 was applied on reaching the top (last tier), and had nothing to do with the Z2. He's being paid to commentate and inform. It cannot be that he's guessing the rules on screen time. It is just not acceptable professionally, in my opinion. Charlie did have the rules handbook by his side, which he read and confirmed/quoted live so there were no doubts. Very different levels of professionalism.

[@Kim-ne8rq]

Mixed feelings. I miss the athletes from russia, Elena, Victoria, Vadim, Alexey, they are not responsible for the war. It is a global enonomic blocs war and the only interest is money, markets, resources (also the cornfields in Ukraine). I fear for the people in Ukraine, in Russia, everywhere. People everywhere should join for peace, camaradery and against nations and money. Ps. And I don't want that money will destroy the camaradery in sport climbing, it has already begun