Sport Climbing: Respect the Rock

[@krzysztofczechowicz3000]

At 11:03 top roping anchor is set up so that the gates of the quickdraws are facing the same way. This is a mistake that should be avoided. Putting the quickdraws so that the gates face opposite sides is much better as the chances of accidental unclipping are close to 0. The best practice would be to have at least one screwgate in the anchor

[@GUIHTD]

How I read the thumbnail: Sport Respect. Climbing the rock.

[@danhopkinson2811]

one thing i'd say is she says alot to the belayer "take me in there i'm safely in' 'ok alex i'm in hard you can give me some slack' 'ok i'm back on the rope take me in tight' i learnt to climb in Australia where most of the cracks are a decent walk from roads and noise, but we always kept communication short and simple. Safe! untying! on belay! slack! Take! off belay! ect. try to keep it short and sweet and if you can use words that don't sound similar. on/off belay is a hard one though. especially when climbing multi pitches or routes with an overhang before the top anchor communication can be hard, and thats exacerbated in the UK where we have crags near the ocean or roads with alot of background noise

[@aaronmurray3293]

Probably a bit to much emphasis on process without going through the fundamentals of cleaning a route. Should emphasize the need to always be into two points, as one may fail. The risk is often climbers lead something then their second top ropes or seconds the route. If they follow method 1 to clean they would be hanging off of 1 bolt.

[@purplemonkeyelephant]

With method 1 there are actually two points of connection as the person is still on belay the whole time, but they would take a fall if the left hand bolt failed with all the rope slack in the system when threading. The way to prevent this is to clove hitch the rope to the quickdraw and THEN thread a bight through the rings.

[@professorsogol5824]

What is the difference between a "double figure of 8" (3:57) and a "figure of 8" (4:27)?

[@TedWilliams1]

They are the same knot, but one is tied as a single figure of 8 first, threaded through the harness and then doubled, and the other is tied as a double all in one go

[@richardeden1453]

8:47 being lowered off fixed glue-in bolts is a no, no! You should rap as this saves on wearing out the bolts (sustainability).

[@teamBMCTV]

We agree that learning how to abseil off resin bolts where there's no chain is a skill all climbers should learn. However, this video is aimed at British climbers heading into quarries for the first time. At these crags, lower-offs will usually be in place. We wouldn't recommend abseiling off routes on your first trips outside, but we do recommend not top-roping directly through bolts as this causes more wear.

[@richardeden1453]

teamBMC I learnt to rap on the rock, and I’m still alive. I think it’s doesn’t matter. The outdoors isn’t a gym but you don’t need a gym for the outdoors. To me this is the danger of sport crags coming from a read background where you learn on the job.

[@purplemonkeyelephant]

Beginners don't need to know how to abseil, they can lower off the quickdraws and let the second thread and rap. Surprised at the soft stance here.

[@you552]

Agreed there were two perfectly good rappel rings there. You could lower off those since they are easier to replace than glue in bolts.