What is the best insulation for a container home?

[@jtr82369]

The framing you mentioned is something I see a lot of people do incorrectly, they put the studs right against the wall instead of spacing it just a little away from the corrugation channels. And since the framing is not supporting any load, you could put 2x4s sideways so you have 3.5" wide studs that are 22" on center at the valleys of the corrugations.

[@SprayJones]

Correct

[@DylanBegazo]

Interesting. Thanks for teaching me something new.

[@jtr82369]

@@DylanBegazo I am just finishing up my framing this weekend & I used 2x2s on the top & bottom running along the channel that holds the corrugation. I used 2x3s as studs & they are facing normal in every second valley, but they overhand the 2x2s toward the valley. At the peaks, it measures 2.25” so I’ll be able to have 2” min of spray foam throughout. Also, this gives the outlets space being in the valleys (otherwise the outlet would not allow enough insulation behind it)

[@DylanBegazo]

This video is a gold mine for the Schoolie Movement (school bus mobile home tiny home movement) too. I’m trying to DIY build a school bus mobile home. Thanks for this Mr. Jones 💪🏽☺️

[@SprayJones]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mikefrayman5224]

Very true sir everything you speak is 100% right. Anyone looking to question what are you saying you will find out it’s only truth. Thank you very much for your information.

[@SprayJones]

Wow! Thank you for that.

[@garlandlew6408]

The best insulation video around for container homes. thanks for the great detailed information.

[@SprayJones]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lloydchristmas23]

What’s the R Value of the typical 3 inches of foam you spray

[@dwayneloftice2326]

Outstanding points. And as always, very concise and thorough!

[@SprayJones]

Thank you kindly!

[@Zewestcoaster]

Back to my crawl space problem... (possible video topic) What is the consequence of small/large pockets of spray foam that doesn't adhere. A concrete wall/slab with a pocket that hasn't adhered. a wood wall that has a small section that hasn't adhered but surround has been sealed. As in, the perimeter of a job is air tight but a bubble or pocket taps "hollow" If no air can get in/through, no problem right? or what problems can arise? You covered the topic when used with containers and presumably air could get behind the foam, but what about concrete where concrete naturally breathes? How "dry" does concrete need to be to spray? 100% no moisture or is there a permissible amount? concrete will always have some moisture, how much is too much?

[@SprayJones]

If foam does not adhere and it is dead headed there can form moisture behind that cavity. But it is sealed and cannot get worse or go anywhere. In fact you may never know it was there. We want adhesion. We need adhesion, you should have adhesion - but no one checks every square foot that would be impossible and actually ruin the completed job. On concrete it is not a big deal. On wood you can have a soft spot over time. We spray new concrete days after it has been poured. As long as the surface is dry and the foam adheres as we spray we are good. We run adhesion pull checks. But my guys are pros, they know in 5 seconds if there is an issue. There is delayed release but that is rare and you can hear it. Always the same issue, water deeper in that fails the foam from adhering within 20 mins usually.

[@Zewestcoaster]

@@SprayJones Thanks for the reply. The quote to spray foam the crawl space with 2" came in at 1/5 the cost of encapsulation with a plastic liner (but that also included a dehumidifier and a sump pump) At this point, spray foam looks to be a much more affordable option than the traditional method of crawl space encapsulation with the added benefit of R12 insulation (that the plastic liner doesn't provide) If the foam makes it past the 20 minute mark with out separating from the surface it's good for life? Now, If the warmer weather would hurry up and get here so I can dry things out as best I can.....

[@k2concepts]

Have you ever sandwiched the walls with a couple inches on each side? and if you have what was the final r value?

[@atomman40]

Enjoy the educational value of this video....looking to build a container home in VA. Sorting out codes and regulations now.

[@SprayJones]

Glad it was helpful!

[@kingsolomon8946]

I wish you guys lived closer to Nevada I really need your services

[@JohnSmith-ud9ex]

Perfect mate ! Exactly what my previous comment was asking for ! = ) Thank you for taking the time, this is going to be a valuable tool for many in the years to come. One question, when framing do you think wood or metal supports from the steel shell to the framing would be better in regard to condensation, heat transfer and the spray foam insulation ? Metal being of smaller mass but higher conductivity and wood having better thermal properties but of greater mass. "All Thread" rods welded to the shell would be my weapon of choice and they would consume less space that the spray foam can insulate... Thanks again for your professional insights = )

[@SprayJones]

You can spray around the supports and the should be fine. We do this will plumbing going through the roof. We spray 100% around it and come down far enough to stop condensation.

[@olgringo-421]

After doing a bit of research and watching your video today along with watching some other videos, I going to go out on a limb and guess there are thousands (if not hundreds of thousands) of shipping container conversions out there that have condensation and/or mold problems.

[@SprayJones]

Yes.

[@TomofAllTrades]

That video is right up my alley. Thanks for sharing. I left that gap/offset you referred to for the studs. Thanks for sharing. 👍🏼

[@SprayJones]

Cool!

[@unisonproductions123]

Great video. What about warm climates? Would a roof garden and vertical gardens on the outside walls, with thick layers of soil help with heat insulation in the southern hemisphere? If so, will it also be good for cold insulation? Thanks!

[@johnpauling3806]

Great video, what about a climate that is between 70 and 100 deg F all year with high humidity? Also will I need to insulate or clad the outside? Most modern houses in Australia are clad with corrigated iron and the insulation is often fibreglass? Appreciate your feedback.

[@josephmartin5230]

Enjoyed your video. Could you do a video on the growing trend of barndominiums and spray foam options? I personally just built a post frame Barndo, the amish framing crew wrapped the girts and trusses (entire building) with R5 radiant solex vapor barrier, with normal painted metal exterior everywhere. I have since had a spray foam contractor spray the entire inside (mostly the white back side of solex) with 5" of open cell. Non shaved because the wall cavity is 7". When I cut a bathroom vent hole, I thought I felt moisture on the inside of the solex between it and the foam. Concerns me a bit.... Thoughts?

[@SprayJones]

Mid west is really a closed cell world. Go watch my videos on vapor barriers. Air seal air seal air seal. You have to stop the air and moisture driving through the product. Open call is NOT an air barrier, nor a vapor barrier on its own. You have one skin on the foam. Better start investigating more as to what is happening. Yes there is a Pole Shed building video coming.

[@SprayJones]

Since it is wide open, I would spray on a vapor barrier primer to get 1 per over the foam. Caulk ALL the seams and can foam every crack that goes somewhere.

[@josephmartin5230]

@@SprayJones thanks. they are spraying open cell like crazy here (most traditional new builds) and I chose it because I wanted the sound deadening in a metal skin house. I'm in Kansas more specifically. May spray foam contractor highly recommended. It performed amazing in the recent 16 below. Cold for us. No cracks anywhere, it's sealed very nicely. Beginning stages of sheetrock. The layer sandwich is metal exterior, r5 solex radiant barrier, 5" foam, drywall. Thx for your reply.... Not much I can do I suppose at this point outside of control indoor humidity. Drywall going on as we speak.

[@SprayJones]

Ok, well be blessed. Humidity control is very important. new homes take up to 2 years to dry out. Open cell is a fine product, just have to use it correctly. We always default to closed.

[@josephmartin5230]

@@SprayJones thank you. I watched some of your videos about vapor barriers, and the merits. Near as I could tell, you were always referring to an interior vapor barrier, prior to wall covering. I'm specifically interested in your thoughts on when the foam is sprayed to the exterior vapor barrier, like mine. Maybe you will hit on this in an upcoming video. At any rate, thanks for being interactive. You name is coming up on the Barndo fb groups here and there, so it should get your channel some good exposure.

[@hey_youtubeim_back2159]

Great video with excellent information. I'm looking to have my 20 ft one trip container insulated. Reason is it's solely for condensation elimination. Insulation properties are of no concern where I live. Anyhow there are one or two local insulation companies that spray foam. What should I ask for when contacting them? Is all of the purple insulation the same? Or is there a particular type and brand that I should mention?

[@jonathanescalada1584]

Hi. How much would it cost to closed cell spray foam 6 20ft shipping containers?

[@kevindstewart8028]

Need help guys, how does this sound for container home/cottage: 1" sprayfoam, wood studs with added rockwoll insulation. Sprayfoam to be added after cutout and framing with gap between the container and framing.

[@Yvonne-2024-f3s]

I loved this video. I live in Florida and have a container scheduled for spray. What would you reccomend for a container in Florida? Open or Closed cell? I tried to listen to what you used in the video but not here any referece to open/closed cell.

[@SprayJones]

Closed cell.

[@almonjacob3496]

To save cost, is 1 inch of foam then Bat insulation between the studs a good plan?

[@SprayJones]

No. Go with all SPF. Save enough until you have enough. The SPF in a container is the MOST important part. Don't mix fibrous with SPF.

[@roseyjjr]

Thanks for your videos. I'm looking forward to your pole barn video. We are framing a weekend getaway in half of ours. Can you spray closed cell directly on foil-faced bubble wrap on ceiling? The builder added this before the metal roof. The trusses are 3 foot on center.

[@SprayJones]

Very Ify.

[@roseyjjr]

@@SprayJones yeah after watching your video I might have to tear it out so he can spray to the metal. I just hate to waste.

[@SprayJones]

@@roseyjjr Better than having issues. Save as much as you can, may find some use for it...

[@Dennismenace-h3i]

Love spraying containers does great job to eliminate condensation and as a sprayer very satisfying 👌👍

[@SprayJones]

I totally agree!

[@joshlawson1012]

Perfect! Now my question is in a galvanized grain bin. Do I clean and prime first?

[@SprayJones]

Yes you do. Watch my conditions video and the "what can spray foam stick to".

[@TomofAllTrades]

I’ll have to do that too.

[@kashiefhenry830]

Hi Mike. Thanks for the new idea of spraying before framing. But If I add the frame after the insulation, can I bump up the insulation another layer or should I add finish ?

[@Reality_TV]

This is 100% spot on! SUBSCRIBED! Thank you for sharing!

[@SprayJones]

Thanks and welcome

[@mooseknuckle07]

Would you recommend putting sprayfoam on the outside of a container home instead of the inside?

[@SprayJones]

No, not without a metal outer skin.

[@FLFO74]

@Spray Jones I think if you do a one container construction, it makes sense to do an interior spray configuration. If you are doing a multi container construction I would think that enveloping it all with external insulation would be preferable. Still think foam would be best because of adherence. What would fit that situation best. Open or closed cell? Obviously you would need to make sure to avoid thermal bridging between the container body and whatever that is chosen for external surfaces. Any experience with this situation? Thanks for great and educational content.

[@SprayJones]

External is always closed cell. Watch "water proof spray foam". It would look like crap unless you re-clad it...

[@monique376]

Can you do a video about insulation in a grain bin

[@SprayJones]

No. All the Physics are the same. Just prime the galvanized.

[@monique376]

@@SprayJones what would I prime it with?

[@ajsequoia6040]

Mike - fabulous video, learned a lot, Thank-you! Any problems-issues applying spray-foam directly onto interior steel i.e. without any framing or studs? Container use will be for storage purposes only. Thanks!

[@SprayJones]

We will stick without framing.

[@ajsequoia6040]

@@SprayJones Perfect. Thanks again Mike!

[@summitdave8782]

So I’m in the process of buying and 40ft container. And the guy has about 1” sprayed. And it’s here in west TN. Would I still need 2 vents for air flow or no?? Thanks

[@SprayJones]

For what? Foam is direct to the metal.

[@summitdave8782]

@@SprayJones yes foam is Direct on the metal. Just wondering if I still needed vents. To live in. I don’t want any possibility of condensation or mold.

[@tochriss]

The studs have to be fixed to the metal, isn’t cold bridging an issue at those points?

[@SprayJones]

Not when you plan out how to do it and embed the connection point.

[@tochriss]

@@SprayJones How about this? Wedging the framing in place and then using canned foam in a few spots behind the stud and under the base plate. Once it has gone off, remove the wedges. With the stud work held in place by the spots a professional sprayer could come in and do his thing.

[@indikev2020]

My wife has allergies, i was thinking of spraying closed cell form to the outside of the shipping container and covering it within either vinyl siding or using 28 gauge metal (roofing) sheets. Inside walls of the container, using 1 / 2 plywood. What do you recommend?

[@SprayJones]

That is fine.

[@MichaelGonzalez915]

Thinking about spray foam insulating a vintage mobile home. Do you recommend replacing the metal sheathing with plywood sheathing ?

[@SprayJones]

I don't know.

[@MontanaFuller]

Does the company travel to Alaska

[@SprayJones]

No

[@jonnymiskatonic]

Has anyone come up with say something like a foam block with a threaded insert in it or even a rigid core that could receive a screw. Just thinking something that could be adhered in place at set intervals in the corrugations then sprayed around to lock them in fully. Those could serve as "hard" points to directly screw whatever surface you're using for a wall to.

[@SprayJones]

Not that I am aware of.

[@charliegay8888]

How well does the spray insulation adhere to surface rust? Assuming most people are using USED containers, most are going to have some level of oxidation. Should a container owner spend significant efforts to remove to bare steel and re-prime prior to mobilizing spray insulation contractor?

[@SprayJones]

No, minor rust is not much of an issue. MINOR.

[@jonathanescalada1584]

How many inches thick of closed cell spray foam do you need on the container wall and ceiling to prevent condensation?

[@SprayJones]

2 inches

[@sinaisalmeron1373]

Thanks for all this awesome info! I was wondering if you could help me out with a question. I'm thinking about buying a short container for a tiny home idea kind of thing in the northern region of Baja California, about 50 minutes from the border. I found a guy who is offering me a container with insulation. Now, the insulation he's offering is the one with fiberglass. I'd like to go with the foam one, but that's noticeably more expensive. I honestly don't know much about this, but I've been researching and found that this type of insulation might create condensation. I also read that putting some vents for air circulation would be a good idea if using the fiberglass method. I was wondering what you think about this. The area where I plan to put the container home is pretty arid, temperatures in the 90's in summer, and they do get a couple of days of frost in the winter, no snow. Would you recommend going this way and using the vents, or should I stay away from that? Anyway, sorry about the long email. Hopefully you have time to give me some advice. Many thanks in advance. Blessings!

[@SprayJones]

Pony up the cash and get it spray foam insulated with 2 inches at least. No issues and you will not regret it if installed correctly. Batts will make it a sweat box.

[@rhoanbrown5126]

Cant you not spray foam the outside of the container

[@SprayJones]

Of course. Then you need to cover it with something that looks good.

[@onsanitizationandmaintenan2476]

Thank you very much for this information really appreciate it

[@SprayJones]

Glad it was helpful!

[@onsanitizationandmaintenan2476]

@@SprayJones certainly was thanks again will share.

[@jonathanwhalen1041]

Thank you.

[@esequielcarrera8347]

Hello Mike, I just had a shipping container insulated with closed cell spray foam. Installer did about 2/3 of the container and ran out of spray, he swapped drums and sprayed the other 3rd. The 1st section that was sprayed started popping very loud and the foam did not adhere at all, it’s literally jus hanging. 2nd section of container did adhere. Container was not framed, outside temperature was just over 40F, the section that did adhere did get sun exposure and might’ve been warmer. It was sprayed early in the morning. What could’ve caused the bonding issue? Would I be able to frame the container and do a second pass or remove all the insulation that and spray again? Really appreciate your response or from anyone else who can help. I can provide pictures.

[@SprayJones]

It was damp and he did not notice. Remove the non-bonded foam and re-spray it.

[@esequielcarrera8347]

@@SprayJones Thank you. I appreciate your response

[@deerhunter7482]

Can you imagine burying one of these as a storm , bomb shelter ! Once again great advice !

[@davidhofer8800]

What size chamber are using here?

[@SprayJones]

01

[@davidhofer8800]

So it's not the Fusion gun your using?

[@wmak8322]

what kind of foam is being used here?

[@SprayJones]

Walltite by BASF

[@jaysousa8319]

Will applying spray foam on the exterior of the roof and interior of walls provide an adequate vapor barrier? Or do I need to insulate the interior ceiling?

[@SprayJones]

It will work the same. Mind the overlap where they meet, be generous. Roof SPF needs a top coat and annual maintenance inspection for damage.

[@cambar5903]

excellent vid

[@simonemorin3018]

Nice

[@ZackWolfMusic]

Your spray foam looks thinner than what i use to seeing here in United States!

[@SprayJones]

Really?? Hmmm

[@miktub1555]

Let me guess. Spray foam?

[@josephmartin5230]

Also, I'm in the Midwest

[@kencourtright490]

This video was very helpful!! Thanks an keep them coming !

[@SprayJones]

Thank you! Will do!

[@levmanou9874]

Wow!!!

[@biguprochester]

A diy solution would be glue the sheets drill holes and spray foam into the recesses with a window gun

[@SprayJones]

Lol, no..... no.......no!

[@NoPhonkNoLife]

it's obvious.. spray foam.. 'cause the container is part of the design of the building, spray foam will be applied on the inside.. because you wanna have more space, you use materials with the best r-value per inch.. and its closed cell spray foam..

[@SprayJones]

Tune in!

[@SawmillerSmith]

I've never understood why anyone would want to use an ocean container to build a house with. I don't think you are saving money by using them. I believe resale might be a problem. Getting a mortgage could be another problem. But if just have to have a container home spray foam appease the way to go in my opinion. Water and air is what's need to create rust. Rust usually starts from the inside out.

[@scruffy6151]

👍👍

[@simseven4967]

Before you sprayfoam watch this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZnnLZoCPq5yfjcU

[@SprayJones]

Old news.... I have some videos of tile floors that were installed wrong too....

[@davidbryant3532]

There are other options that are 20% of the cost of foam