Caterpillar D2

[@Bellboy40]

The starting engine really starts easily and runs smooth right away. Impressive.

[@jbj27406]

Yeah, you're right, that starting engine was running before the starting rope cleared the pulley.

[@KennyKizzleRustyNutzRanch]

It'll likely work itself out. That thing is about as new mechanically as you can get. And you attention to detail in setting things up has warranted a reward! Staying tuned to see how she runs out.

[@rickyjessome4359]

Great video squatch253! It was really neat to watch the injectors pop off in slow motion. With any luck it just need a bit more run time to seat everything in a little bit more. Thanks for the video. Cheers

[@markthompson8656]

I expected the injector cone to be much wider. In A & P school we had a clear acrylic box we put injectors in to watch and adjust the cone so they all would make the same pattern. the cone was about 45 degrees.

[@aserta]

When you showed the weep level, for sure i thought it would be the smoking gun, but... after all the tests, inconclusive. I pulled all four jets in photoshop and they look absolutely identical (angles of camera not taken into account). Smart move swapping them. Maybe it's just an issue that's time sensitive, hopefully a few more hours on the pull will clean things out. Top notch detective work btw, a lot of people just go full Monty on an issue like this and totally miss these kinds of vital clues. One time a work friend threw in the towel and asked me to fix his car (which was in pieces, basically the whole top was off) and it turned out to be a simple blasted little wire that had its jacket worn and was grounding through chassis causing sputtering and dirty fuel. It's the small stuff that gets you, can't ever forget about the little steps. If it's an intermittent issue... it's even worse. WatchWesWork showed a few videos on diagnosing stuff like this and man... i am happy at hobby, family and friends level, i would not like to work in this kind of line, because i'd go white in the hair in the first week. :)) You guys, who have the ability to withstand this kind of stuff are freaking heroes in my book, the world would grind to a halt.

[@flydieselair]

Try pulling the exhaust manifold to isolate which cylinder is huffing the fuel/oil. I, back in the 70's was an engine rebuilder at Cummins Ontario in Toronto Canada. To pull the manifold and check the ports was 1 way of tracing fuel/oil problems. This was done running and shutdown to further isolate the problem. Sorry if I seem to be coming across as a big mouth. I love your show and I'm just trying to help.

[@amossnowdaharleyman9179]

Furnace noise: down here in NE Texas we're in the season of confusion. Heater at night and A/C during the day. Another month and we'll be in straight heat season. Hopefully.....

[@timothyball3144]

Great visual on those injectors, so thank you for that. BTW my fuel shop is 3 1/2 hours away so I just ship them.

[@Drottninggatan2017]

So these are NOS. Did they have cosmoline on them? The risk is that someone bought a new set of injectors but returned one because it was popping. So they gave him another one and put this one back in the original box and put it back on the shelf.

[@leeriver857]

Yes, you are correct about your lube oil comment. I have had the 'popping' sound many times on engines that manage to get a little taste of lube oil. and as you know it only takes a minute amount of lube oil (less than injection amount) to make the timing a little late or early and thus creating the odd 'pop'. On the cat, I would work it hard at full power for a full day and it should disappear. Les. 70 yr old ex Cummins, Caterpillar, and Detriot mechanic right here in New Zealand :) BTW I enjoy your beautiful scenery and would love to see more of your family farm.

[@bonielsen4512]

Had the same pop sound on my new renovated 23c diesel .it turned out to be the fuelinjectorpump but it sounded like a broken valvespring.

[@kenbellamy6085]

Sounds like a head and butt scratcher. Great video, love that old Cat equipment.

[@tonypaul2987]

Weak valve springs maybe. Or needs be run more to break in engine to seat piston rings. Man that engine runs like new to me sir. Great job. Love your videos. Can't wait till you start fixing the rock crusher.

[@rickbray7100]

Friend made a injector tester out of a grease gun and pressure gauge worked well for 3B Toyota diesel injectors.

[@mymessylab]

Great video! Nice idea to check injectors that way. I suggest a compression test to evaluate either valves or rings for leakage.

[@jondavidmcnabb]

That injection testing was probably one of the coolest self tests on KZbin. Also the sound of the cat pony motor makes me want to build a pony motor, motorcycle!

[@ronchappel4812]

Would a horizontally opposed BMW twin be similar in sound? With the mufflers removed of course😁

[@rodneymiddleton9624]

I'm sure you will find it!!! Thanks!

[@gordoncorey8023]

Like how you break it in by pulling the old RD6 around the field

[@survivingmaineona20acrefar77]

Excellent video my d8800 tars from number 3 but I haven't had a chance to check it out, a lot of insight for me when I do. I will be going through your area this week but I won't stop in unless you would like me to. Let me know if you except visitors.

[@loisgunstone8444]

Hey Toby. It seems odd to me that a nos injector would have paint on it since they are only painted on a complete engine. Maybe it was pulled and put into stock by mistake. I see no reason to pull an injector from a completed and painted engine unless there was a fault. Ian 🇦🇺

[@kennethpiller632]

Maybe has been mentioned already, if the exhaust manifold is removed and with engine running, see if can notice from which exhaust port the white exhaust comes from when the engine misfires. If the same cylinder every time or if randem.

[@YeahJustMe]

It would be interesting to perform a cylinder leakdown test to see how the rings are sealing at this stage of break-in. I don't know that it's worth buying a tester if you don't already have one (plus figuring out the fittings to adapt it to the 3400), plus you're going to complete the break-in anyway...but it would be instructive to see an A-B leakdown result, especially if the pop goes away after the final stage of break-in..

[@allanrichards3752]

I looked at the injectors on slow motion a few times and they all looked very even and with everything else checking out ok I guess it is best to just run the crawler and see if it settles in. As for using a DTI to find TDC it is not always the most accurate way because there is a dead bit when the rod goes TDC. This on an engine carrying a bit of wear or some design clearance can be a few degrees. The most accurate way I have seen it done is with some degree tape on the crank where the timing mark is. If it is a petrol engine, then use an old plug and take out the ceramic bit and tack weld a short length of rod in the plug. Turn the engine to come up to TDC and feel the piston touch the rod on the plug. Make a mark on the timing tape then turn the engine back the other way until the piston touches the rod again and mark the timing tape. Halfway between the marks is then TDC.

[@bishopcorva]

For just a moment injector 1 looked like its spray was a solid stream then switched to a more misty spray during the last half of the pulse, whereas the others looked fully like an even misty pulse. Might just be a very slight leaky bypass inside the injector that as the pressure ramps to peak overcomes the leak and forces the correct spray pattern. One way to test it would be to swap injectors from those to ones from the parts tractor to see if it fixes it the issue. Since you said they are NOS it might have been a minor flaw when made that wasn't enough to reject through QC if it was even 100% test at the time. Still though, quite an interesting look at the working bits.

[@moplum]

My MM G706 engine wet stacked right after rebuild. It quit shortly after hooking it to a pulling sled. Pulled on highest weight setting. It has not wet stacked since. So I agree go work your D2 till it’s tongue hanged out.

[@geneshepherdsr]

I mentioned this before timing on the inj pumps is critical. My d4 and a d 2 of friend of mine missed like yours. Check with depth mike to set timing a few tho. Makes a big diff. I set a couple tho more than spect because of wear. Thanks Gene. Good luck

[@clydeschwartz2167]

excellent video I think you may be over thinking the slobber mess I feel you need more break in run time with the small bore engine it may take 100 hours to break it in some engines are really fussy the valve settings and the injector spray looks about as good as you going to get just run it.

[@mikehughes3533]

Great diagnostic work.

[@johndowe7003]

It starts slobbering when the rings get stuck, lotta puttering around on a diesel with out load will do that also. On older machines ya gotta run em full blast so that the engine gets hot enough to burn all that crap out and keep the rings from getting stuck . Drag something heavy around for a few hours and the slobbering will go away.

[@johnsawyer2516]

Just run it hard and steady one of two things will happen, it settles down or it goes bang let’s hope it’s the first after all your careful work. Excellent videos. Take care stay safe.

[@jmailbell]

Well the starting engine sounds fantastic! LoL Great video as always.

[@TestECull]

18:45 Honest truth I would just not worry about that wet stacking. The thing runs better than modern machines do. It's got a couple quirks but it's also got a few decades under it. I'd say, long as it runs like a swiss watch, let it buck.

[@texasjetman]

Very informative. Thank you for great content with explicit details

[@oldcatmech]

With the swap from one to four is the old way of confirming the nozzle is the problem! If it stays in one then could be rings or injection pump! Also check to see if fuel line to number one line opening is not pinched down, had one that had a restricted orifice, fuel flow proved it on a test bench!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

New to the channel, so maybe this has been covered. The Hercules engines in a couple of my tractors use a nut and ferrule at the injector that tend to crush the injector line a little each time it is tightened down. This eventually causes enough of a restriction that it can delay the timing of injection. I took my drill index and found a bit that just fit in the line hole and slid it in. Sure enough it stopped where the ferrule crushes. I drilled it out, flushed the line and put it back together.

[@tedhewitson823]

A friend years ago I helped keep his 2 and 1938 d4 has a similar early version engine. He ran it for years were it would fire on 4 perfectly for half hr then 3 cyl 1 started popping and raw smoking. Then would run perfectly on 4 then doit again. We never took it apart. He bought a 55 d4 315 engine ran perfectly and his 47 d2 always ran perfectly. I often wondered if injector or valve not seating

[@shaneharrison4775]

You'll get it ironed out one thing we now know for sure the spray pattern of those injectors looks the same upside down as the did when you and senior first crack tested them. Perhaps it's something mechanical that needs to ware in to a final seat. Grand dads F30 had 2 pops that shot smoke rings from the exhaust tube. And that was after we did a head job on it because of a cracked head that grampa brased up and it always seeped off the sides.

[@StubProductions]

That’s a cool test! Never seen injectors tested like that. Really nice demo.

[@ramosel]

You and Paul Short have the same video camera detecting heater thermostat...

[@76RSLT]

Atleast you are working on a list of what it isn't. My ocd really wants it to be that black pump on #4 . Lol!!

[@pipikr]

Greetings from Austria, I think the pops was caused by oil, by pasing the Pistonrings. Maybe the surface of the cylinderwall was to smooth, so the pistonrings needs a longer run, to seal as best as they can.

[@andrewread8370]

Had a chevy 250 6 cyl had the same ran grate on idle when you gave it gas it pop .Every one said carb, timing or vale it ending up being one of the lobe on the came was worn down

[@alexthomas3075]

I noticed that the spray on no.1 injector was not as consistent as the other 3 were from my point of view

[@waynep343]

Loosen the exhaust valve lash to 0.014" see if the pop goes away.

[@denistaramasso9251]

Like you said the engine ran perfect when on the engine stand . Injectors looked good. In my opinion à bit of dirt or contamination could have gone in the barrel pump in one of the barrels.

[@AB-nu5we]

Very cool troubleshooting scenario. Thanks for sharing your insight on how to start to proceed.

[@rickharper6320]

Hard to actually tell on my phone. But it looks like number one wasn’t putting out very much fuel at first. It didn’t look as though it sprayed as much as the others until about the fourth or fifth time the others had “fired”. May just be lighting or camera angle, but you had a much better view than any of us. May have just been a bit of air in the lines. But that is all I could imagine could cause an intermittent pop. I don’t think the issue is very serious as it runs & pulls too well. I know Cummins much better than vintage Cats. So I am watching your progress. Thanks for sharing, I have learned quite a bit.

[@transmitterguy478]

I have a 67 JOHN DEERE 350 LOADER 3 CYL and it does the same thing on idle, it will pop every so often, we changed the injectors but the same thing. We have not rebuilt the engine it seems to have good power.

[@greglittle554]

Cat recommends BonAmi powder to seat rings that don’t seat properly the first time.

[@paulsilva3346]

3:00 am I the only one to catch the irony after an eloquent dissertation on wet stacking.? You go and stand by the garage door where the wet stacking has splattered on the garage door. I got that!

[@ap1687]

Thanks! Good to see you back in the shop! Any updates with the gauge face? What's the plan for the coming shop season?

[@danielbutler578]

Hallelujah!!!!!!! I am eagerly awaiting the completion of X231. That's what got me watching your channel in the first place.

[@danieledwards1081]

@@danielbutler578 yep, same here

[@junior1138]

I know it has no time on it yet, but that oil is pristine.

[@donbullock8790]

With the intensity f the way you put this together I'm surprised you are having a problem. The way it starts, runs and looks you should be proud. I agree with you that it needs to run some more. The proof of that is coming out the exhaust. I'm sure you'll find the cause and can hardly wait for it.

[@cyrilhudak4568]

Have you considered Area Diesel Service in Illinois?

[@kimalter6620]

Watching this vidio i was thinking how cool it would be if you had a pipe or flue from your ceiling running threw your roof . then you could run a flex pipe from your exhaust and keep all the fumes out of your shop .you could run the attic pipe out the gable end as well instead of threw the roof . Great job on your 5j1113 .

[@LLAHTI1]

When I used run Cat 3406’s in my trucks in the old days, with a new truck used to try take one of the first loads out west. Even in the summer, get to the mountains, stop put the winter front on. Run it up hill till the temp. warning light would come, pull over let it slowly cool down really good while idling, do it again three times. The old school trucker that taught me this said you will have an engine that will never burn oil, he was right. I don’t think you were getting it hot enough on plow day,? Fall temps, fan running, pull the RD6 around with some card board on the front and really get that temp up? Worth a try?? Good luck!

[@LLAHTI1]

One other thing, have you used an infrared temp. to see exactly what temperature you’re running when you’re trying to pull hard, when I see that wet stacking and I know you have a newly rebuilt motor but on a truck diesel engine used to see it all the time in the old days when you were idling at night trying to sleep and couldn’t keep the engine hot enough they all used to do it because you couldn’t keep the temp up so Like I said just wondering if yours is running hot enough to start with? Is the coolant really what the gauge is saying?

[@40yeartrucker25]

I did the same with a new 1985 KW 3406 cat would not stop using oil when I got a load from Minnesota to Montana and a 40 mph Northwest wind ,temps 10 to 20° F I closed up weather front a worked that Cat a full power with a close eye on temp gage. That seated rings a no more using oil.

[@8068]

Hmmm... try completing the breaking process as you mentioned. This may be an engine that just needs to be worked a bit more after break-in to get everything to seat properly.

[@CS_Heavy_D]

You could put cardboard over the injectors say maybe 12-18", let them spray 2-3times each then you'll be able to see the size over each spray left on cardboard.

[@heimcomputer9772]

Great video... I like your analytical approach. In slow motion it looked to me like the spray from the first nozzle looked a little different. But maybe I am wrong.... Kind regards from a viewer from Germany.

[@budl4656]

Thanks I know you will figure it out or it will

[@lekinwyo822]

You always have great videos. I have an AC M crawler. Wondering where to get parts for it. Any recommendations for where to get parts? Thanks.

[@colin8532]

As Rick Bork would say, Giv-er the onion!

[@IndergaardAcres]

I agree! Give it all the onions! It will quit slobbering at some point once the internals all wear together nicely.

[@ThomasLips]

flog it👍👍👍

[@Skremn01]

When viewing the fuel spray pattern, it looked like the 1st injector would be intermittently weaker in its fuel delivery. May just be me.. but I think that injector is def your issue.. you should pull an injector you know is good from another machine and run it.. if it solves it.. bango..

[@greenmirror5555]

I am here late and have not heard the "pop". I see the weeping black stuff...have you thought about a exhaust manifold leak allowing air back in the exhaust manifold and ports that might help to ignite the tiny bit of unburnt fuel/oil? Also makes me wonder if it is more fuel than oil are you running rich? You might pull the exhaust off to check exhaust valves for wet oil and the pistons for wetness. Looks like the injectors are very happy. gl gl

[@deweydodo6691]

I would still have them tested at a diesel repair shop . Was more of a squirt than a spray

[@LaLaLand.Germany]

Pulling the RD6 around sounds good to me, work the thing! Have You been in fifth gear? Work it, Baby! Let´s put together a nice towing-convoy!

[@TestECull]

9:48 Neat to see the firing order on this beast is the same 1-3-4-2 that most inline fours right down to tiny little motorbike engines use. Spray patterns look good to me, but I'm no diesel mechanic.

[@alasdairhamilton1574]

Squatch you can alway drag Rick by his feet, that should “drive the snot out” of 5J1113😊👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@JA-ux7dd]

I harken back to my airplane ownership days, they changed the fuel and low octane fuel was outlawed, were forced to run 100 low lead…this lead to sticky valve guides which lead to popping and rough running. could a sticking valve guide be the problem?

[@svendholme3627]

Toby, a suggestion, why don't you drag your stone boat around for a load to pull? Not enough drag, add more rocks. Always love watching you work on 1113 and the look on your face on the inaugural ride? Priceless.

[@rogercarrico4975]

Very good idea. I rebuilt several things that were impossible for me to run under a load after rebuild. I naturally used break in oil. The recommend time frame.Things like picker engine. A sprayer engine. They would, all cranked good,run good, not slobber. However, seems like they always would use a tad more oil than I thought they should. Quart every 40-50 hours. Something like that. I've done tractors that I would take them out with a plow of some sort. Just lug the fool out of them. After draining the break in oil. They would do much better on oil consumption. I definitely believe in the ring seating under a load process.

[@anibalbabilonia1867]

I definitely enjoyed watching and learning a little bit! Hopefully all it needs is more breaking in time! Maybe it’ll fixes itself on the long run! Good luck Squatch!👌😎👍by the way everything seem to be working as it should though!

[@ImpHalla66]

I volunteer to drive the RD6 Also, while I'm there - I need to clean the inside of the garage door. My OCD is driving me nuts with those black spots. 🤣

[@mortson978]

Last week my car (16 years old, 220k miles) had its 1st check engine light. I was bummed, but I figured maybe the charcoal canister needed replaced. Then a couple days ago, it stopped coming on. Whatever the problem was, it seemed to resolve itself. Hoping for the same result for you and 1113.

[@andrewwright1200]

Did you try the injectors spray test with the throttle just set to idle? I.e when you are having the issue.

[@emilhamilton5200]

Hi there. My ten cents... When you did the spray pattern test I think you did it with WOT. I would try it again at approx idle. At idle the fuel delivery from the pump might not be sufficient to overcome the spring force inside injector 1 compared to the amount of leakage. Maybe at idle fuel delivery your spray pattern will vary. Anyway. Excellent and interesting videos. I am myself an offroad machinery mechanic in 🇩🇰 and find your vids well documented. Thanks

[@russellsmith3825]

Even at low idle,the governor will go for more throttle until it gets to the preset RPM

[@tomjoseph5375]

What's going on in MN. Former neighbor saying hi from Florida....

[@benmeyer3962]

Work it hard. See what happens

[@evankibbe590]

I was thinking it just needed to be worked hard!!!! And brought up to operating temperature for hour's at a time !!!! Under a load of course!!!

[@doubledranch]

Check intake/exhaust casting matchup on the head casting ports. Some are just horrible from the factory.

[@ormmeford2204]

You have pretty much done everything that you could think of. I say just go with the pop, unless it becomes a real problem for some reason. There are enough engines with their own quirks that I will say you really shouldn't worry after doing all this. Be satisfied and more forward.

[@triptisrinivasjanardan3929]

Orm Meford I agree. Squatch, mechanically speaking, is the pop that too only at a certain RPM that much of an issue? Let's keep in mind that this 85 year old tractor sat for God knows how many decades and has only just come back to life thanks to your meticulous work of 3 years. It just needs a little more time to adjust centuries, continue with the break in and I cannot imagine the machine being in better hands.

[@dangerrangerlstc]

I know we've had some cases where we've had to remove the exhaust manifold to see which cylinder is causing a smoking issue. Maybe take the manifold off and run it to see which one produces the pop? Could it be something with the decompression system causing issues too?

[@dougkubash8673]

Thanks for bringing us along for the diagnosis process. It will be interesting to see the results of the #1 - #4 injector swap.

[@DismayingObservation]

Messy but effective. It’ll be interesting to see what the culprit turns out to be.

[@billrey8221]

I Love your analysis, thought process and explanation, in addition to all of the work you do. I don't know a damn thing about tractors nor diesels. I have found that there are a lot of old equipment (farm, construction, hit and miss, military, and railroad) videos on youtube. America was built with all of this equipment (carbon base) and many people (politicians) don't understand that history. I more thing, I have watched the building of the Panama canal with steam shovels, my god! ergonomics for the operator?...and then the boiler attendant too? Thanks for posting!!

[@lwilton]

Three people a lot of the time: operator, stoker, and engine wiper. The later was in charge of keeping fittings lubricated and the grease wiped off of stuff.

[@seniorelectrician6831]

Great Video, I totally agree with the changing of #1 injector with another, while you work it more as you said if the problem stays in #1 cylinder or does it move. You will need to work it as hard if not harder and longer than the last time, so you can get the slobber cleaned out. I am not a wizard in injection system but I do have a decent understanding, with that being said is there a check valve or poppet style valve in those injectors to keep them from dripping or pushing the fuel back towards the pump?

[@aserta]

Easiest cheapo, simple diagnostic method. Suspect an injector? Swap it. Weird that it weeps, but is otherwise ok. For sure i though it would be the injector, but it seems it's not, to be seen. Might just be a seatment issue that may heal with time.

[@nikoshi1988]

You could try a DIY flow test of the injectors with 4 measuring glasses or cups. See if they all flow around the same ammount of fuel.

[@dustinmcintosh6799]

theres a diesel shop near me that i watch videos for all the time… anyway they use their machines to calibrate and check common rail injection systems based on the measured amount of fuel from each injector in the test. i wonder if you could crank the engine over and measure the precise amount of fuel being delivered from each injector? thats my shot in the dark anyway.

[@JamesColeman1]

Gives a different meaning to “make it rain”.

[@MrCarl312]

I assume you know about Area Diesel Service for injectors and injector pumps.

[@MrCarl312]

@@squatch253 Watch Wes Work had a fork lift that he used Area Diesel Service. I will put the link, (don't know if KZbin will delete it) kzbin.info/www/bejne/eXTNpo2Kf6l_nbc

[@pdmustgtd1013]

Let one idle overnight get the same thing wet stacking. Dad did this to his old D7 after it hadn't ran for few years. Pont motor had issue and lowboy trailer dad was going to barrow got flat tire. Had to wait until morning for them to fix tire so Dad just let it run. Top of hood was all covered what a mess

[@mnshp7548]

in not sure if you did this so sorry if you allready have. Change injector 1 to 2 and vice versa then you'll know if its the injectors or actual mechanical problems with cyl 1 as you will have black stuff on the exhaust. Hopefully itll clear up when you get it proper hot

[@douglasmiller7618]

A heat gun will tell you a lot .You can check exhaust temps and find the weak one. 20 bucks on amazon .

[@markphillips6154]

What became of and or what did you surmise from the number one injector having the fuel in the top where the other three were dry? Where was that coming from

[@KubotaManDan]

I copied this post from EngelsCoachShop; Do you know about this? "the Caterpillar name started out as a model of tracked vehicle sold by Holt / Best, and the logo on these early units was the name arranged to look like a caterpillar!"

[@EricaMTB]

Have you removed the exhaust manifold to see if the wet stacking is really from cylinder 1?

[@BigMeepsadventures]

Off topic, what is that big valve in the background from??

[@darploin5071]

I could see the fuel in the number one injector it was pretty full anymore and it looks like it might be spilling out onto the side of the block and dripping on the floor so if injector one is suspect or do you have a replacement and if that stops the popping then we're in good luck we can think about putting the yellow dog House on the tractor so you can private well protected from the elements

[@larrydavidson3402]

Sorry you didn't find anything, I have full confidence that you will get it figured out.

[@jeffsnider3588]

In the shop that starting engine sounds good, hot rod motor.....😀

[@russellsmith3825]

Does it have A PTO you can hook up and run a generator, pump etc to put it under load or run a Dyno?

[@enginelover1]

It could still be stuck. Next time you check it like that try and run the engine as slow as possible. That way can tell if there is something on an injector.