6 things that made me hate 3d printing less

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

I can't believe its almost over, these two weeks have flown by! There's only 36h left to order the H&S Squidmar Airbrush! Thanks all you beautiful people who decided to get one already! I cant believe how many of you have been excited about it - THANKS! harder-squidmar.de/eng

[@reefarolla32]

Waiting patiently for mine to arrive, I cannot wait! Its a beautiful design and a great upgrade from my Badger 360. Although I had just decided against spending on a H&S then you changed my mind! It's all your fault Squidmar 😂

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

@@reefarolla32 haha sorry not sorry, you're gonna love it :)

[@GrafitTomi]

I wonder if we will get any notification about that it has been shipped. I have zero information since I ordered on the very first day. Squidmar, do you have any info about that part?

[@gershcz]

Is this a good airbrush for a beginner?

[@Phirumnon]

​@@GrafitTomi Check the website you ordered it from. There's an update on shipping under service/help tab. Long story short if you ordered on day one, your's will ship anywhere between yesterday and december 31.

[@Snacklord_Dennis]

I have a 2D printer and I always skip a generation when upgrading, so I’ll be patient and wait for the 4D printer

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

Loool

[@the_guitarcade]

I hate you. I'm in physical pain from laughing so hard at that.

[@soup-flavored-soup6613]

Do you still have your 0D printer?

[@michaelwilliamson7]

Underrated

[@Scarabswarm]

The good news, is that a 4D printer will let you make things retroactively.

[@kietzi]

what a click bait :( I wanted to know, why I should save the printed supports...

[@hatmantheQthemanz0r]

This was explained in the vat clean chapter. See 2:13

[@mirrikybird]

@@hatmantheQthemanz0r Thanks for the timecode, thats actually genius

[@GoobertownHobbies]

solid list! #1 was actually news to me, now I gotta see if any of my printers have a vat cleaning button!

[@MrBizteck]

Lol I havent cleaned my vat in 4 months just keep adding new stuff. Give it a stir and away you go. Even left it as an experiment for 3 weeks. Made ZERO difference to the print quality.

[@juhkystar]

@@MrBizteck Same. My resin vat just gets a good stir, then topped off with some new resin and another good stirring, it's set. I only clean the vat when I have to, and even then, you can just run the LCD test to solidify the entire bottom and just peel that off along with all the little failures sticking to the FEP. It's pretty fast and easy to recover from failures this way!

[@GoobertownHobbies]

@@MrBizteck I only clean when there's stuff stuck to the FEP :-)

[@karmaq8462]

It's in the menus , I have one on my epax 6 .

[@thrrax]

@@GoobertownHobbies Same here. I haven't really cleaned the tray in a year, just remove whatever gets stuck. Resin printing is somewhat situational and somewhat luck based. I never had the nasty problems that some people complain about.

[@QuirkyEclipse]

Definitely recommend against using the included plastic spatulas. Use a rubber spatula and you won't scratch the fep. Also, use microfiber cloths to clean it!

[@axysanvilfist6269]

I’m actually allergic to the fumes/gasses given off as resin is hardened in the printer. Took the better part of a year & many doctors visited to figure it out… so I have a printer but it’s at a friend’s & he prints whatever files I sent him. I’ve been a patreon of Titan Forge minis for over a year & have always been pleased with their designs & presupports.

[@phillipmaciejewski9872]

That’s rough! I accidentally was too lax with my exposure early on and sensitized myself (had the full shebang, dried skin, blisters, etc) so now I break out if there’s even a bit of residue on my skin for a bit

[@BaseSteve]

Damn. hope y’all are doing OK.

[@tommymartin364]

What were your symptoms? I'm wondering if I'm in the same boat

[@limpx336]

Resin printers don't give off fumes when they cure... its just the smell of resin.

[@clemenshimmer9245]

Did you by any chance not wear a respirator/not install proper ventilation for your printer? People seem to mostly understand you need gloves, but they just straight up fail to understand that breathing the fumes contained in uncured resin can make you develop systemic health problems and - like in your case - make them develop allergies, in turn making them unable to operate a resin printer ever again.

[@Nephanor]

I'm with ya on the Phrozen, they are awesome, I got a Sonic Mini 4k, and you also should mention they are NOT a Chinese company, they are Taiwanese. Small difference, but it's important. And the cleaning/curing station is awesome too. I have one of those too.

[@danzo5521]

There won't be a difference in a couple months lmao

[@Nephanor]

@@danzo5521 You are probably right, but I am still hopeful it won't happen.

[@danzo5521]

@@Nephanor same here

[@bearonatricycle1082]

They’re a Taiwanese company, not a West Taiwanese company? I’m sold on them for sure now.

[@giantmanice]

@@bearonatricycle1082 "west Taiwanese" 😭🤣

[@space197]

@Squidmar Miniatures avoid using tissue paper when cleaning the fep and resin basen try using microfibre cloth instead to avoid scratches

[@camojoe83]

Why? Not like tearing things up cost him anything. They'll just send another.

[@aidanfordsword6954]

@@camojoe83 if the FEP gets scratched it's pretty annoying, plus it will mess with later prints. Replacing fep sheets is also a hassle.

[@UncleJessy]

Happy to hear you’re running with a wash and cure station. Makes that resin cleanup a lot better.

[@norcalonline1]

Yeah, what was the brand/model again, please?

[@rcrawford42]

Stupid question, as someone considering a cleaning station: are there any that include a cycle that agitated the wash fluid with the UV lights on? I'd like that to help clean alcohol a bit to extend its life.

[@xXHappiXx1]

@@rcrawford42 I know that the anycubic wash and cure station can't do that. You probably wouldn't want it in the cleaning container anyway because over time there is a lot of resin that builds up and would probably clog the the whole thing up. I always transfer the alcohol in a large glas jar and put that in the wash and cure machine without the turntable and clean the alcohol that way.

[@cannapoluo2685]

For anyone who didn't know, when running the clean sequence, when setting the seconds, press the actual number and it brings you to another screen where you can put in how long to expose without having to press the up or down button multiple times.

[@fotosrotas]

you should do a complete cure of the residues before throwing them into the garbage can. you know that the resin can be toxic both for human beings and for plants and animals.

[@camojoe83]

He doesn't care, and none of these dudes ever mention stuff like that. Fuck, I've seen some minitard just dump his wash water down the drain in a vid about water washables. Ah well, it will be their families, water systems, and pets getting poisoned and growing cancer, not mine.

[@RichardGardnerUK]

I have a Phrozen Mini 4K, I had issues with failed prints. Since I started warming my resin before printing I have had zero failed prints. Just leave the resin bottle in a bowl of warm water while you get everything setup and its warm enough in 5 minutes. Its also worth mentioning I made one print with my Phrozen Mini 4K and hated the smell, long story short I cut a hole in the side of my printer cover, got some duct pipes and fans and piped it out of my window. I can now print and work in my office, not a single smell. Its amazing!

[@dovahkinnbarragan1309]

You saved me i dont have a sense of smell but my fam does so i keep getting hate and anger thrown at me, ya saved me

[@Bannerninja]

wauw that’s a lot of crying - you are usually so positive but it seems printing gives you a lot stress

[@AymarMtl]

I have been printing with an ABS PLA printer for 3 years (scenery mainly), and I started printing with a resin printer a couple of months ago. I started with an elegoo mars 2K pro and a Mercury plus curing machine. I have been printing with water washable resin, and apart from calibration, the only issue I had was changing my VAT plastic (I followed a tutorial by Elegoo). That's it... I have 0 fail, and I printed 5L worth of resin, I am absolutely in love with my printer, and if they were more affordable I would buy a gigantic one to print my terrain with it. My good old Enders 3 is a great printer, but I am always fixing, changing, tuning mechanical things (bed, extruder, tube, everything), a resin printer is litteraly no work at all. Put the resin in, get a supported model, press print... Done.

[@yagsipcc287]

In my experience with 3d printing most issues are caused by users. It is by far cheaper I've saved a ton of money myself already. Ive had mine a couple of months and had zero issues outside of the first couple of days sorting settings out.

[@TeamCulexAK]

I'm using Elegoos water washable resin and I find that fantastic.

[@MrBizteck]

Yep thats my go to also

[@jacobb5484]

@@MrBizteck I think they’ve recently improved the formula.

[@PeaceLoveAndGuns]

#1 SHUT. UP! No way, that's way way waaaaay easier! I love you, Squidmar. Holy shit. Amazing!

[@zacxander]

I switched to water washable resin. So no more IPA less fumes quicker easier clean up. I have been getting great results with elegoo’s water washable resin.

[@KingBlueSlimss]

Same here. The resin I use is virtually odour free as well

[@huntliba]

Danny is awesome dude!!

[@NikkiAnnMarie]

With lift speeds you can actually go the other way, with very fast settings (180mm/min+) that reduce both the force and time, though slow speeds are more reliable. There's a grey zone of 'medium' speeds between 60-180mm/min that have the largest peel forces. It's a bit like ripping off a bandage - you either want to go really fast or really slow.

[@davidmccurdy8911]

Thats what I found with the Saturn, initially default settings caused constant fails to the point where I almost gave up, went slower (and also anyone with a Saturn, increase your lift distance, those big FEPs flex a lot!) Finally decided to go fast instead and it was just as good. Its only the middle speeds that cause issues.

[@Caveman89]

@@davidmccurdy8911 same here. Ever since going to 185mm (or 180, not sure) I have significantly less fails and whats even cooler, the prints are stupid fast. Printed out a couple modular 28mm Minis (legs and upper body seperated) in under an hour.

[@Chef_PC]

You really have to have your printer calibrated perfectly for vroom settings to not get fails. Not that you shouldn’t have that done anyway, but a lot of people don’t and that’s why they have problems with fast lift speeds.

[@davidmccurdy8911]

@@Chef_PC I think I have been super lucky then, I set them to the Sirya tech settings (even though I use Elegoo resin) ramped up the speed and off I went. I have had more problems over the last few days but I am putting that down to changing the mainboard so I had the top off so need to get my levelling just right again

[@Chef_PC]

@@davidmccurdy8911 I used vroom for a few months before my screen burned out (not likely related), and have just now gotten back to it. Fresh resin and having the printer dialed in really helps out everything though. I use Siraya Navy now almost exclusively because it’s moderately priced and I’ve had fewer fails than any of the other brands, especially Elegoo.

[@ninozenner4161]

HI on the miniature you where saying that we can recycle th supports but i didn't found this chapter on your video so how can we recycle the supports ? ( sorry for my english , I am french)

[@micaiah7776]

I bought a halot mage and have printed some Warhammer models and the printer works great but my cureing station is a cardboard box with tinfoil on the inside and a hole on the top for a uv bulb

[@Infernoblade1010]

I love the Anycubic Mono X! Also, the wash and cure is amazing! It was a huge upgrade from the goofy plastic containers I was using lol. If you get/have a Mono X, I recommend you spend a whopping 15 for a BIQU flexible build plate. Phenomenal!!

[@MikeNerdbox]

Thx for your Videos. Waiting for some Manta News :-) -

[@olivervollmer5950]

I had the same issues until I switched to water washable resins. It is so much better imo. Only the cleaning needs a bit more work, as it is only a mechanical cleaning, not an additional chemical process as you have with IPA. But getting rid of the IPA sets off the higher cost for the water washable resin and did much to keep me safe from any health related issues.

[@clemenshimmer9245]

Please do not underestimate the dangers of the resin you are operating with. While IPA is a toxic chemical, resin contains way more toxic chemicals. If you don't treat the resin like it is way more dangerous than the IPA you are endangering yourself, you need to protect your respiratory system and skin from absorbing the resin's VOCs at all times uncured resin is not contained fully airtight or ventilated, or you will develop system health problems in time.

[@DrDoktor60]

The resin fumes are poisonous so the smell help you identify if you have proper ventilation

[@ftkinney]

I 100% agree with everything in this video. I started with an FDM and now I have been using a Phozen Mighty 4K and it would not be fun without the accessories like the Anycubic wash & cure, I’d also recommend the magnetic and steel plate from Wham Bam.

[@gazimoff]

Would love to get into resin printing, but I'm paranoid about the fumes and my 2.5 yr old toddler getting messy with it. As a dad yourself, how do you protect your hobby space from tiny hands?

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

I have it in the studio, in a seperate room! But talking to danny from 3d printed tabletop and goobertown, apparently its not as toxic as one could think as long as the room is properly ventilated.

[@randomnickify]

..and ten years later your kid gets asthma, all resin fumes are toxic and printers work for hours spewing them around, resin printer is something that you keep in separate workshop, not your hobby space.

[@NikkiAnnMarie]

@@randomnickify That's where the 'well ventilated' part comes in, so you don't have fumes lingering. There are a lot of solutions, but the easiest is probably a fan attached to the printer and some ducting out of the window

[@camojoe83]

... ever heard of a door, dude?

[@Cergorach]

@@randomnickify Apparently many people have very different interpretations of 'well ventilated'. If I would get into resin printing I would use sealed box, carbon filters in the printer, and an installation that removes the fumes that get through the carbon filter. Call me paranoid, I'm pretty sure resin is out to get me! ;-)

[@aaronbrown4275]

Some good tips! Am I the only one that isn't afraid or stressed about resin? I mean, I'm not drinking it or rubbing it all over my body, just following the recommended safety guidelines. In modern day we probably interact with way worse chemicals frequently than resin. That or I'm dumb af and don't know enough to be worried...?

[@NikkiAnnMarie]

Recommended safety guidelines are basically 'don't get it on your skin/ingest it' and 'don't breathe too many fumes', so if you're avoiding both of those you really don't have much to worry about.

[@MrStatistx]

If you follow the basic guide it's alright. The issue starts when there are failures. I am dreading the day I find a ripped FEP and the resin getting everywhere including into the printer. Also gloves, mask and goggles should be standard. I got 1 splash of resin on my forearm, where the gloves did not reach and had a red and itchy resin burn for 4 weeks.

[@Cynidecia]

the only thing holding back printing is ease of use/cost.

[@17blaziken]

wait, isn't the smelly part a safetymeasure? I thought that resin was a toxic material to hinale too, making it smelly allows you to know that the area is saturated in resin and you have to move away

[@yagsipcc287]

Partly yes. Some a more smelly than others, it also seems to be a person to person issue as well. But once lids are on you can't smell anything.

[@MultiAndrew6]

Even if you can't smell the resin it's still quite dangerous to be breathing it in large quantities. You need special organic filters in masks to filter it out. An evacuation system for the air in the room is also highly recommend. Shits dangerous, but if your smart and carefully it's a very rewarding hobby! Printed out a T'aunar and had tonnes of fun!

[@Gabriel-um9hm]

The smell is only a result of the volatiles which happen to be toxic/irritants.

[@walkerharmer-perrin4889]

Enough of this! Give us the Manta!!

[@booradley1138]

Also a tip that improved my prints greatly: use PTFE lubricant on the FEP before pouring the resin in. This totally eliminated the problem of prints sticking to the FEP and extends the life of the FEP. Also, I use a water washable resin, and I use a flexible magnetic build plate. When cleaning the minis, I rinse them in a bucket, then I remove the supports, THEN I put them in the wash station. Gets the prints much cleaner, and keeps the wash liquid cleaner.

[@stab2486]

Any good alternatives? Haven't heard good things about teflon

[@manuelklein7627]

I have had so bad results with water washable resin. A lot of times it started cracking months after the print...

[@lunasllenas1997]

@@manuelklein7627 this is the issue with water washable, its the trade off sadly.

[@bramdx]

That trick with the leftover supports to aid in vat cleaning is going to save me so much hassle. No more digging around with a spatula and damaging the FEP. Thanks!

[@bathtubanarchy]

You can also carefully use your gloved knuckle on the underside of the FEP to rub and push the print, just enough to lift off a corner and hold it off the FEP while you get the scraper under the edge to lift. Takes a minute to get used to but good when you don't want to waste resin exposing the whole vat.

[@ttcurtright]

Disney is going to release the hounds

[@SeEdLeSsLEE]

mighty 4k* and Mega 8k * @3:08 FTFY ;)

[@annasstorybox7906]

I would recommend one of the cheaper curing stations meant for nail studios. Just check that it has a function that allows to have the light on all the time. On most of these curing boxes you have changeable UV light bulbs so you can replace burned out bulbs easily. Also most of them have a reflective surface all over their inside so no fiddling willth foil. These boxes are quickly found on the internet. My boyfriend and I have found this thing quite useful and we don't mind having to do a little adjustment in the minis position to get everything cured. It works for what we need and I guess it is a decent alternative between some diy contraption and a real curing station both in price and quality

[@bigboomer1013]

I have a nail curing thingy, but needed a bigger curing station. So I built one by simply buying UV light strips for cheep like 10 dollars. Then I get a box, cover the inside with foil, and then stick the UV light strips inside. It's the ugliest yet the best thing I have ever made

[@mattevers4778]

Did i miss something in this video.....what are we saving the supports for?

[@chrissoohoo5465]

Putting them in the tank so when you use the clean tank function, the old supports become handles for you to pull the newly hardened layer out of the tank

[@remotepinecone]

what yuo said in the first minute is how cheap ink jets paper printers are. only difference is we are not expected to fix it or mess with the print driver. Slicer software IS JUST a print driver. Who wants to mess with print drivers? Who doesn't want awesome prints?

[@jerrahdkaisur5411]

I understand needing to feed the sponsers but this was a few too many times in one video for my taste

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

There's only one sponsor, the other things are recommending things I like, but being honest about if I pay for it or not.

[@user-gk2cg2th9h]

To add to your first tip, if you remove the build plate and set it in the vat while the clean mode is on it will stick to the plate and make removing it much easier

[@Don_Giovanni]

9:09 Because, you know, every hobby enthusiast has 2 printers 🤣

[@niemanduberhaupt895]

Funny, I actually really enjoy all of this maker-process you say you hate ^^. Maybe except for the mess...

[@HomemadeJam3D]

Great video!! I know I'm just a very new baby channel, but I have a video on supporting that would be great for you to watch. It used to take me literally hours to support and I HATED IT!! I would post you a link, but YT won't let me, but the name of the video is called No More Fails and it's about supporting models super fast and SUPER easy! It definitely made my life easier. Keep up the awesome videos!! 😊

[@aaronbono4688]

Okay, your video makes it look like loot studios did not provide pre-supported miniatures at one point. I've been subscribed to them from about the beginning and they have always had some of the best supports during each release. You may not have meant to suggest that but it really looks like a ding against loot studios and I think they are one of the best out there.

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

if you listen to what i say you hear that's not what i say, i've praised loot in plenty videos before

[@kristopherchinander3461]

If your fep keeps building pools of cured resin over the duration of the print try these things one at a time: clean resin by straining it, clean fep with alcohol and lint-free tissue, reduce exposure times, check fep for scratches or ghost mark and replace it as needed,, reduce laser intensity from 100% in 5-10% increments. Hope that helps someone. Add more helpful methods if you’ve got them.

[@AlejandroHernandez-qd5bj]

I love my Sonic Mighty 4k, started with mechanical parts for engineering, but I've gone CRAZY with minis lately too! it doesn't help I can print like 15 at a time

[@mamikonpainting]

Oh nice, I was thinking about getting a 3D printer to create scenic bases for my competition pieces. Nice!

[@kenneth31182]

Lichi is perfect for auto supports, i use it every time and with a 98% success rate. Another tip before curing put ur prints in hot water for 5 mins and the support practically fall off leaving no nubs or indents, then let dry before curing. These tricks have mad reson printing a breeze.

[@DavidRelich]

Great list. I was a little surprised about the complaints though. I've been FDM printing for over 3 years and SLA printing for about two months but no matter what printer or material I've ever used, I always managed to get a print to complete successfully. When it actually failed, it was my fault because I forgot to wipe the bed clean of my finger prints (with FDM printer) or forgot to support an isle on an SLA print, etc.

[@DimensionMachine]

Dude, you need to buy a funnel with built in removable strainers. Best 10 bucks you will spend. Stop firing with that horrible basket inside a funnel setup!

[@BostonZombieExaminer]

I've watched the video twice now and have no idea why I'm supposed to save the supports.

[@bathtubanarchy]

After a failed print, you put the old supports in the vat, gently, make sure the bottom touches the FEP. Use the tank clean/timed exposure function of your printer. It will make a solid sheet of cured resin across the FEP that will capture any failed prints stuck to it and the old supports are embedded in the sheet. Lift the sheet off the FEP by the supports. Much easier than draining the vat and trying to lift off failures individually.

[@BostonZombieExaminer]

@@bathtubanarchy GOT IT, I did not get that the supports are supposed to be a handle. Thank you!

[@williamwilson4049]

Dont clean the fep sheet each time just get the big stuff out

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

I don't ;)

[@raffia16thblaze10]

the lift speeds and first layer cure time was the first thing i ever did to fix my failed prints on elegoo mars 2 mono. a great printer for a great price

[@postreinanimation]

Never had any issues with 3D printing at all. Just make sure your resin has a temperature above 15 degrees celsius and no hardened particles inside and you're good. I actually think 3D printing your minis is less work than cleaning terrible forgeworld casts or building the puzzles that modern GW sprues are. Not to speak about the good old white metal.

[@brokenentertainment327]

I was putting together a box of Wyches and had to retrain myself to assembly line glue because the newer models are all so specific you can't do it. Every single marine has specific parts that go in a specific way and god forbid one arm get on a different model or something. Used to be able to put a tactical squad together in like 30 minutes. As someone who has put together a lot of Forge World and these new kits, 3d printed models are way, way easier, absolutely.

[@ApocGuy]

It's GW policy; out gamee, our rules,our minis !!! Been playing with those for last 20 or so years, but always kept green stuff at hand for mods. 3d printing just made all that obsolete.

[@reefarolla32]

I don't empty the vat when I have a failed print. I use a plastic razor blade and take it off in one clean piece when possible. Once removed I literally stick my fingers in the resin for any strays. I print everyday and this method works everytime. No need to take the vat off and damage the film. Been printing for 4 months with two machines and no issues.

[@MrStatistx]

I hope you mean gloved fingers

[@MrStatistx]

@@Doodlebob563 I'll try to keep it at a 4 weeks long rash from resin burn on my arm

[@KabinMiniatures]

The technology has come so far over just the last few years, I'm curious to try 3D printing myself. Also, love your uninterested face in all the random images 🤣

[@TheZukru]

As soon as I heard "here, in Sweden" I hit subscribe. I need good knowledge on how to solve challenges we get "here, in Sweden".

[@WhamBamSystems]

great video, printing orange resin is very very difficult as orange is a color which filters out UV, maybe try same resin in other colors!

[@DatFunnyPerson]

I have the issue with my Saturn 2 that only big prints tend to fail at some point... its really frustrating.

[@shadenone]

Bonus tip: YES! It took me forever to figure out how impactful lift speed can be when I first started 3D printing! None of the typical stuff you'll find on starting 3D printing talks about it, but it is, IMO, probably 80% of the cause of failed prints. Just because everyone has already covered supports, temp, location, etc. to death. Following that is hollowing, but that's another discussion entirely.

[@mvm3897]

Phrozen printers ha e been awesome for me. I've had 3 brands and the Phrozen brand is the only one that worked the 1st time and have not given me any issues. The Phrozen 4K Aqua Grey is my go to resin now. It just works, doesn't smell and I have had zero fails with it. Great video.

[@lucpar23]

This video is so perfect. I just purchased my first 3D printer and I am a noob. This helped so much!

[@DeAdmiraal1998]

Yeah I'm in the same boat, mine just arrived about an hour ago!

[@jklappenbach]

Do yourself a favor, especially if you own your house: create a negative pressure setup. Enclose the printer in a grow-box made out of nylon material (like a tent). Many grow-boxes come with openings for 4" ventilation hoses. Locate the printer against an exterior wall, and have a handyman come and install a drier vent in that wall, up somewhat so that it's above your setup. Then, get an inline fan for a 4" ventilation hose, and connect the growbox to the fan and from the fan to the vent. PROBLEM SOLVED. Especially if you have animals and/or small children, the fumes from VOCs are really, really bad. Also, when you're dealing with the print, cleaning the vat, etc, get a mask with a filter capable of filtering out the vapors. The more you spare yourself the fumes, the better your experience will be with the hobby.

[@echtvergoldet]

One tip a lot of people miss: CHECK YOUR ROOMS TEMPERATURE. Especially in Europe, it's getting cold these days. Most standard resins do need a working temperature of above 20°C, better 25°C. You can heat the resin up on a radiator beforehand, thus helping the print to stick in the beginning. In the process of printing, the resin will warm up due too the reaction while curing the resin. If raising the temperature is not an option, you will need to raise the exposure setting, to hit it longer with UV light. Optimally, do a "XP2 Validation Matrix" test print right before a larger, critical project.

[@Serpsor]

homebrewers have a similar problem with temperature. You can buy electric heating belts that wrap around the vat for like $10 from homebrew supply stores

[@echtvergoldet]

@@Serpsor good to know, will check it out!

[@Ashden96]

@@Serpsor i was really confused and asking myself "why would dnd homebrew content creation have to do anything with temperature?"

[@3DJapan]

2:22 I hope you're not just throwing that directly in the trash while it's covered in wet resin.

[@jordmc9253]

Putting supports into the vat for the cleaning process is genius, I've almost punched a couple holes in FEP trying to pry that sheet up.

[@gadoyw]

Unfortunately have to disagree with "presupported" miniatures. 99% presuports are bad and made in lyche (which can be easily tracked down by some ridiculous support placements out of the blue). Additionally there are two type of presupports - one of them extremely thick which causes "thick" problems of the tips and cause subsequent quality problems. Another type are very cute little supports which can also leave very harsh support side and fail at all due to the lightness. If one wants to have a perfect model - the only option to support it himself. If the user is ok that model would inevitably have imperfections\small broken off pieces - then sure, presupports are life saver. Have been in resin 3d printing for a year, spent a lot of different resin, started with Kingroon Kp6 4k, tried Elegoo Mars 3 pro, Saturn 2 8k and honestly I'd say the thing I wrote is applicable in every single situation.

[@Nick_Whiskey]

holy fuck is that what the clean vat function is for? the wash/cure station also looks like a real life gameshark code.

[@mikaelmattsson8236]

This video made me look into phrozen as my possibly my first printer. But then realised the video is 2 years old and it seems like the printer market is constantly evolving. Living in sweden the most popular store online doesn't seem to sell them at all. Has any cubic surpassed them? Or should I go for the phrozen 8k S that seems reasonably priced, directly on their site?

[@lartengremory990]

Use Siraya Tech Fast navy grey, you'll never look back from Siraya resins

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

Siraya is a daughter company of peopoly, I have suspicioun to believe they are the same resins. No idea if its true but they behave the same

[@lartengremory990]

They split from Peopoly 4 years ago but Peopoly are resellers of Siraya Techs products

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

@@lartengremory990 that's not what they told me 1,5 year ago in our communication :) maybe it's a more soft split. Totally guessing here

[@lartengremory990]

@@SquidmarMiniatures this is what the siraya tech admins told me

[@alexthehopeless3778]

I've been printing for several weeks and right now I can't print anything properly. Just yesterday I've started printing some space marine parts: left and right arms, legs, head, torso, a bolter, decided to print the rest later, and the only things that printed were the legs and the bolter, and the rest was stuck on the fep film in an approx 0.85 mm layer which took me 15 mins to scrape off with a METAL spatula, which obviously ruins the fep. I'm frustrated as hell and I genuinely don't know what to do at this point. I've cleaned the vat, I've releveled the printer, I've rotated everything by 45 degrees like everyone always does, used supports, even set up my exposure time recently, 2.3 seconds, everything looks fine in chitubox, yet every time I get a mess. I'm using an anycubic mono 4k. I don't know what to do.

[@malterethmeier968]

I personally found that medium lift speeds are problematic and both slower, as well as faster lift speeds seem to work better. My print success rate skyrocketed, when I went from around 75-80mm/s to 180-210mm/s. Obviously I can't speak for everyone though, so take this with a grain of salt.

[@Chig232]

Ok, I really like this video, so much so I subscribed. I mainly watched it to see what you use your left over supports for and that is a GREAT idea. However I continued to watch your vides, even though I got plenty of experience you never know if you are going to learn something new like the supports trick. Anyway I totally disagree with your Lift and Retraction speed. I understand your logic and I get it however I've been running a 240 lift speed and 300 retraction for almost a year now with great results. And again I see your logic for the lift speed but it's doesn't make sense for the retraction since that is the lowering process.

[@cynthiarosse7852]

Hi guys! I am veeery new to 3d printing and I am just planning on buying the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K 3D Printer. So do I need a curing station also? How does that work? Please help, I'm lost :) Thank you :)

[@KyleBreckenridge]

bit surprised no one mentioned vroom settings in comments yet. Basically the idea is if you crank your lift speeds up crazy high you also have less suction issues. Seems like either going really high or really low works equally well. I've been using vroom on my e10 5k's with siraya fast navy grey and have had no problems even with full build plates. I will add that I tend to hollow just about everything to save on resin. Anyway, heres the Uncle jesse vid with a lot more information. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKe6moFpaNl7i5o

[@Ironyone]

Replacing the FEP with the NFEP is much better, the difference is enormous, I stopped having failures even with a lifting speed of 180 mm, try it

[@MrTree421]

Praising Phrozen is all cool. But you shoulr maybe take a look at how Thomas Sanladerer deals with printer manufacturers. I think review samples should never come with any sort of stipulations.

[@Iskelderon]

As a space scale model builder I often use old support structures as "girders" in spaceship wreckage as the background of a diorama. Great for stuff like Gundams.

[@dewey40000]

I had only fails on my first printer the first day but then i changed the offtime setting and did better supports (thinner or thicked depending on the heavyness of the mini) My off time was at 0.5 and i put it at 1sec and suddenly it finnaly worked perfectly ! and since then i didnt get a single fail ! (well it's only been 3 days i have it xD but still i couldnt get a single succesful print the first day and now i'm really just printing non stop and didnt get another fail yet !)

[@rhabeldibabeldi6812]

lol, when I started watching the video I was the 5 person to do so. After I finished and replenished the website, there were 6638 fiews...How fast can a community be?

[@nachot6592]

I actually prefer a Resin that stinks. That way I don't forget I'm using materials that generate lots of volatile vapors so I have an incentive to wear proper safety equipment.

[@Nicol80145]

One thing i never understood before getting a cure station is you have to have your curing setup under the fume hood/tent system you have alongside you printer because the short curing duration and even the wash pumps a crap ton of alcohol into the air. I would not be surprised at all if there were a good amount of resin VOCs in those fumes as well.

[@High_Lord_Of_Terra]

People think its like having a magic box that spits out whatever mini you want. It's not. It's a massive, quite expensive, pain in the ass that has by no means replaced my mini buying.

[@theexchipmunk]

Hating everything but the end result. Maybe you should get somone to print the things you want for you. 3D printing is basically a hobby in itself, and not just another simple tool at this point.

[@GuardianLords]

Is it cold where you print? I only have fails when its too cold. Once I turn the heater I put in the printer I've had no failures with any resin. (10+ different brands)

[@CapitalNick]

I'd rather spend a couple more minutes cleaning the vat than reducing the screen's life. Also, you can't just throw wet resin in the trash. It should be fully cured first.

[@killingkye]

Did I just get click baited? I cannot see the part that explains why we should keep our supports... Unless im blind/deaf?

[@AbstractObserver]

You should know even those that dont smell too bad, they are allergenics, irritants and not safe, and in most cases are carcinogenics. You should never be around it without a proper mask for resin work

[@sbrevoltuion5]

The biggest caveat with phrozen is that there is not a screen protector that comes with it, for the love of god get a screen protector or you’ll end up buying another screen like I did.

[@CornishCarper]

How many sponsors! My business uses £100 resin printers and 100% success rate! Any car will take you from A to B. Just saying

[@georgecook83]

I know this video wasn't about painting really, but watching some of your videos I see that your painting handle has a little arm on it. What is that for?

[@jcklsldr]

Hmm, listening to your last tip, I wonder if there was a way for 3D printers to be programmed to calculate that lifting force based on the speed and the current surface area of the printing layer and auto-adjust the lift speed to keep it around a certain amount of force. (I mean, obviously it's possible, it's just a matter of someone going the extra mile/kilometer :P to do the programming)

[@B4MBI72]

Lychee, auto supports, works 95% of the time, you can tweak the auto support settings. For smaller things I tend to use the light supports on a high or ultra density, or just mediums on bigger things. Auto supports have gotten a LOT better with the more recent releases. Slower lift speeds are the first thing I will try if I get a failed print even if it adds an hour or two to your print.

[@tabletopmika4349]

I have tried several times using old supports to peel off that resin sheet after using the clean vat function. It never worked. They never "merged" with the sheet.

[@joslynjordan3818]

Try Siraya tech fast navy grey resin. Very high detail resin. They have print profiles for all major brand resins on their website.

[@skeome]

Dont clean your FEP with IPA, just use a microfiber. IPA makes the FEP cloudy

[@chadbeattie6844]

bruh u should be doing 0,020 mm layers, resin is god tiers higher than those filament ones. i dont get failed prints at this small height :)

[@tsgmatthew2975]

i started with a phrozen and it shit the bed after 3 months and they never answered any of my emails for support switching to an elegoo saturn after xmas

[@cyberware5323]

8:49 is this covered by the warranty? If this happens often, I would never buy a printer if this is not covered.