How to Print Perfect Miniatures - Resin 3D Printing BEGINNER GUIDE - Step by Step

[@FauxHammer]

Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 Join this channel to get access to perks: kzbin.info/door/_9Jsf3SP8aMJgn0xv5jHjAjoin Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer

[@chris_the_glove]

Don't suppose you have the RERF version you knocked up for the monk review?

[@nathanelacey]

@fauxhammer at 12:13 what do you call that bucket with a plastic insert to do a quick wash on small parts? I have been looking for something like that and I cannot find it!

[@nallosword]

hi @fauxhammer could you do a lychee profile for the wargamer resin i would like to try it but afraid of the no profile . so no starting point part of this experiment ty in forward

[@remotepinecone]

thingaverse is broken af I'm new does this happen often ? so I just wait an d don't do shit until the fucking 3d model site EVERYone uses isn't dead?

[@donniem7979]

There isn't a single thing you missed here besides checking if your lights are working and illuminating entirely. I actually got a test print to work on my Anycubic Mono 4K from direct center, but my top right set of lights were out. Didn't know until I started a larger plate. Other than that the rest of this stuff is super clean and well detailed. Thanks for your contributions to this hobby.

[@FauxHammer]

Fair point yea, i;ve said it in other videos when i review the printers so i forgot here.

[@fermio100]

6:58 you're absolutely right. I never took it seriously and my prints were rubbish. My printer is also in the garage and I live in a cold region. I invested time, effort and money to build a heated box for my printer. My prints are excellent now. Temperature is crucial for resin 3D prints

[@TheNetterRiese]

this has to be the best beginners guide for commercial resin printers yet. I pretty much have gathered all the info from dozens of videos. This one would have been such a time save. Good job

[@FauxHammer]

thanks so much, I paraphrased this comment in an updated thumbnail.

[@ArnoldJudasRimmer..]

I have been shying away from buying a 3D printer the last couple years as It just baffled me tbh. But I love the idea of having the freedom to print multiple miniatures and busts whenever I need them for my dioramas. This video has helped me gain a little perspective on the subject without a ton of unnecessary jargon. Nice one sir 👏

[@dyansis]

You just described to me clearly how those exposure tests are supposed to be checked. No one has ever managed to explain it to me clearly before. Thanks, im saving this video

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks. I refer to this often… glad you found it….

[@theenigmaticgamer]

I’m just waiting for my first 3D printer to be delivered. It’s an Anycubic Photon Mono 5S Pro and I have to say that I’m a little nervous. Although I don’t consider myself to be old, I turned seventy in February and up until now have always bought and painted historical minis for wargaming. Starting 3D printing is quite a step for me. Your video is extremely helpful and I have subscribed. I’m impressed by the straightforward way that you explain things and will be going through your back catalogue of videos as I’m sure there will be loads more helpful stuff. Thanks again.

[@JordiPNG]

It sound like you're very experienced with minis! I hope the 3d printing works out well for you and you can take your hobby to new heights!

[@joshmaynard1752]

This is the first comment I’ve made on hundreds of videos I’ve watched on printing, this it literally the most helpful video I’ve ever watched and thank you for including recommendations for getting files

[@FauxHammer]

It's comments like this that make everything with it. Thanks so much for your words

[@TheEagle73794]

Finally got a resin printer thanks you for the easy guide to getting started.

[@turbosnowy]

Just to let you know, my GKTwo finally arrived and after being mad nervous about even pouring grey toxic gunge iinto a tray and hoping it wont a) destroy the machine or b) my room, I'd like to say thanks for this noobs guide - it has helped me, and I have now printed 3 test plates at 1.45s, 1s and 0.75 exposure time (Anycubic grey bog standard water washable) - have to say they all come out pretty much the same - 15 posts and 12 holes - I was trying for 15/15 and then after all that unpaused to the point you said don't try for that, 12 or 13 is good enough make something cool lol. One tip I would give to anyone getting a GKtwo is if you finally find the instructions to do a firmware update (hint stick the files 1 by 1 on a USB stick using FAT32 or FAT - update literally 1 file only at a time on the usb stick) then you may find it reboots and comes back in Chinese only - after initial panic as I didn't know if it was trying to tell me to enter the printer name or press here to self destruct I took the plunge, entered a name 'GKtwo' at the prompt and then you're back to normal icons where you can go to settings and select english (or whatever you prefer) for the language - or ofc stick with Chinese if you wish. Got cones of awesomeness going now at 0.75s exposure to see how they come out, but assuming not a disaster I will finally try printing something cool. Thanks for the guidance and videos Mr.F Hammer - much appreciated, and although only at the very beginning of my adventure in printing it does seem like the GKtwo is a very nice machine (albeit no experience with anything else so nothing to compare it to haha)

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks so much mate, comments like this really cheer me up

[@Blade-go9ol]

Do you print in your bedroom?

[@turbosnowy]

@@Blade-go9ol I don't have a garage so the printer is in a spare bedroom.

[@DobsonsLab]

Got back into 3D printing minis after a fairly unsuccessful previous attempt, just wanted to thank you for putting together this video, I've been dialing in my exposure settings tonight and feeling considerably more confident than ever with the process!

[@timthurman1062]

I really appreciate this video. I've been stressing so hard. I got a Mars 4 Max and a whole week of unsuccessful prints. I have had 3 and they were test prints

[@FauxHammer]

Hope it helped. i wish more people knew about this so they could start here, Resin printing is easy.

[@mistertee1979]

This is without a doubt the most useful ‘getting started’ video out there, thanks for sharing

[@cristophermiranda6036]

I'm really excited because I just bought my first 3D printer and your video helped me to understand a lot of things. Once I'll have the printer on my hands I'll test everything you recommend. Thanks a lot

[@rafaelozzetti3713]

Watched this video after buying my first resin printer (an Elegoo Mars 4 DLP), and got it printing with 100% success rate from day one. As FauxHammer says, it is a guide for getting things started quickly and without much hassle. Several useful tips and important details that are not on the manuals. From now on, I can learn at my own pace, knowing that Ihave the basics covered. Thanks for sharing your experience!

[@jackfrostpaintball]

this is helping me so much specifically the portion around 12:47. i literally thought it just didnt print or something. thanks for helping a newby!

[@utahgeoff]

Thanks for this. I recently bought a Mars 3 pro. This gives me some confidence and cuts through a lot of the noise out there on how to start printing.

[@FauxHammer]

yep, i did this on my mars 3 pro and it worked.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

This is a great guide! I was having issues calibrating my phrozen mini 8k S and the whole "you're over-curing it and it's sticking to the FEP" thing was a real gamechanger. This was very clear and easy to follow.

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks so mcuh

[@magicbean820]

Damn I have watched so so so many 3d printing tutorials and this is the absolute first that actually explains printing itself, thank you, this is exactly what I needed, was looking for, it's brilliant

[@HeroOfTheWeb]

How I wish all this information had been available when I started out on the first elegoo mars 1. I learned through lots of frustration. I'm going to send this to all my friends who are getting into the hobby.

[@tgr9876]

Just got my first resin printer (also first 3d printer) Tried printing anycubic test sample and 3 of the 8 samples stuck to the fep. Followed your advice, now printing great. Thank you very much 😊

[@FauxHammer]

YES! this is the exact comment I was looking forward to!! I love to see I've helped someone!

[@happyboar1019]

Everyone who want to start with 3D printer should see this vidéo. Thanks for sharing 👍

[@warspawnedpainting4380]

I just started with a Halot One and am already getting pretty good results. The type of resin makes a huge difference for me (water wash yay, plant based nay) and the supports are a learning curve for sure but I'm learning and trying my luck with more complex miniatures.

[@FauxHammer]

yeah, supports really is another deal altogether!

[@OceanBlue_69]

Excellent tutorial. Covered all the stages of the printer/resin setup process with clear and concise explanations. I now feel I have an understanding of what each setting does and the reason it might need altering, giving me the confidence to experiment with them on my own. Thanks very much.

[@FauxHammer]

thanks, check out my settinsg vdieo from this week for more of an in depth guide on the printing process

[@danielwaters6235]

love to get a list of good miniature companies that you would recommend supporting for print at home noobs. either drive or online on your site. thanks for these vids it is nice to have a non commercial view on what can be a tricky landscape to get honest information. cheers

[@FauxHammer]

Loot Studios One Page Rules Titan Forge Mezgike Some of my faves there are more

[@danielwaters6235]

@@FauxHammer thank you

[@Fabodroidgaming]

Newb with Saturn 3 Ultra here. My workflow till this point which works fine with unsupported minis: 1. Load the model into Lychee and rotate it like everyone sais you should 2. Generate !light! autosupports but high density 3. Check for/delete all islands in Lychee (i dont even bother to add or delete any support manually) 4. Export the whole thing as an stl 5. Import it into Chitubox 6. Slice it! 7. Check for/delete all islands in Chitubox again 8. Send it to the printer Did this from my very first print (which wasnt an exposure test) and this works fine for a week now, without any failure. (approx. 15 prints, full plate)

[@manuelfreez3790]

Very nice turorial! best was you need to do an exposure test! ive litteraly printed a whole multi part figure out of the box with more or less no problems! i love this hobby!

[@marcinko113]

Why does this man only have 16k subscribers?!?!

[@jessedawg4693]

Its the algorithm man just have to support and share to help

[@sebastianwei7721]

17 and counting

[@FauxHammer]

19 now, almost 20. Wow I didn’t realise how much it had rocketed up in just a month!!!

[@baird1fa]

Up to 22 now.

[@cgooch_]

His content is premium. It’ll rise and rise steadily.

[@TheRealOzWookiee]

Been lurking a while mate and watching your videos and figure it's time you get a sub. You're content is just that good.

[@FauxHammer]

thanks so much, I have more to come too. not sure why I'm trying to sell you on it anymore! i got the sub lol

[@SatansLtlBaby]

i use a fermentation heating belt wrapped around the vat. its not perfect but it does keep the resin warm enough for my purposes. eventually i'm going to add a thermostat and temp probe to it to have it cycle as needed.

[@FauxHammer]

i did try that but got the wrong size band and it wouldn;t stay attached.

[@StrangeKvol]

Best get-started video I've seen! My first resin printer arrives in a couple of days, and this vid will be in the background when I set up my Anycubic x 6ks!

[@FauxHammer]

thanks kindly. Also worth noting you can set up an RERF test on this one, not sure which video I covered that in, may be my review of the 6kS , or the Mono 2

[@photoboyjet]

I also print in an unheated garage. I keep my printer (Saturn 2) and the resin I intend to use in a grow tent with a ceramic heater and thermostat controller. I've been printing all winter with no issues.

[@FauxHammer]

nice

[@figuresix]

Here is another idea about ideal temps in your garage.. Get a plug in heater.. I have one in mine, and keep it about 65 degrees. I get electricity is pricey in UK, but there are low cost power cost heaters out there. I personally dont have any difference between my electric bill once I start turning it on, and I keep it on 24/7.

[@manosjj8404]

Excellent video!! I have a question: how often or when must do again bed leveleling except the first set up?

[@FauxHammer]

It depends on the printer. You’ll be able to tell when things stop printing in one side of the plate

[@regg151]

once again a wealth of information presented in such a way that is easily digestable even by someone who is brand new to this.

[@FauxHammer]

I am an idiot so i have to present in a simple way

[@kdonv]

Great video. Using your "post/holes" instructions to try and dial in my new printer/resin settings. It's proving to be a lot more work that my old printer but I'm determined to figure it out. It would be awesome if you could in your reviews share your settings for your printer/resin combo as a starting point. Compared to my old Mars 2 Pro and Chitubox 1.8, the new tools have me thoroughly flummoxed. So many more settings nowadays - and I can't figure out what half of them impact... LOL! I bought a Mars 4 Ultra and the Warhammer resin and getting the two to work together efficiently is proving to be a bit harder than I was expecting.

[@fattony6203]

To level I use an old Fep sheet. Gives more accurate spacing from the screen/build plate.

[@FauxHammer]

Smart, I just leave the vat on

[@mcgill504]

great video, it got me through day one with my printer. thanks for putting in the effort

[@FantomuRyu]

From one beginner to any potential newcomers… he isn’t exaggerating about the USB drive that comes bundled with the printer. My first three test prints failed, and I thought the problem was due to user error-then I found out the problem was the USB itself, it already gave me problems right out the gate. My first print via Wifi was an immediate success, so don’t feel discouraged if this happens to you!

[@jaylonreidhead157]

This video is top notch. I have been watching 3D printing videos for 3 hours now and this one of, if not the, absolute best. Thank you!!

[@stelonous]

the post/hole count system was the most beneficial to me.

[@FauxHammer]

Yep, understanding how to read that test is key. so many people say look at the middle and guestimate if it's under/overexposed due to the merge of the logo. umm, actually. that's not measurable. holes and posts are a comparable metric everyone can use.

[@Shakes_The_Clone]

Oh god, Thank You! I’ve been scouring YT for ages trying to find a “keep it simple, stupid” video Just Like This. Everything I come across is either too convoluted or too vague. This is exactly the amount of information and detail I want. You. Da. Man. 👊🏽

[@FauxHammer]

I literally wrote KISS after every section of my script, it took me 5 times longer to cut it down than to write it

[@Emtbtoday]

I've noticed this with the cooler nights comong in, when doing a first print i get like a harsh shift line in the print but it's nothing to Do with the saturn 2 having wobble or that it's the cold thick resin at first then you get this diagonal line as model It angled, the cold resin upto about half an inch high on the first prints then it's fine, as the resin is now at a warmer temperature and thinner! It's juat started happening this past few days with having left the windows open and the cooler airflow my room is upstairs whare i have it as normally always cooking in that room. So what i have been doing is running a couple of validation matrix through it, not for really doing exposure test as thats great jsut now but to heat the vat up before going ahead and printing the part of one my model's im actually going to be having on display! If you Haven't got a vat warmer this is a good way to use the UV to Warm up to a nice temp to thin the resin out its working for me this so i would like to pass the tip on to maybe newer printer's as im sure you will know this but having to find it out yourself can be annoying wondering what the hecks happening eh lol! You maybe went through this at one time yourself? That vat warmer though is definitely something i will be getting!

[@iRogueRenegade]

Awesome video! Big thanks lots of little tips and tricks i learned and i've been printing for a couple years now.

[@jadeneonsiren]

Amazing tutorial. This helped make my foray into this hobby far less daunting, thank you!! That being said, "Posts and Holes" sounds like the latest banger from the Bro Bro Gang 🤣

[@therealkeelia2780]

They also make inside the case heaters for a decent price. My basement gets below 20c and my heater keeps my resin at roughly 25c. Trick is fill the vat, then inlet it warm up for about 20 mins before I start it printing

[@ClayMann]

A sneaky tip, you can warm up the resin in a bowl of hot water and with a little temperature probe get it bang on around the 20-25c range. I had so many fails early on in my print life and temperature was what took me from a rarely successful print to a very rare failed print. I wish the manufacturers would put this on the box or even on the printer itself. A little label about average temperature ranges to be aware of.

[@FauxHammer]

yeah I saw a few DIY options, but haven't seen one you can buy. happy to try one tho.

[@knightartorias1825]

Hey, I did slow down the setting transference portion of the video to the slowest setting and I'm completely lost at the end. You seem to be transferring the Lift and Retraction speeds, but it's not in any way that I understand. For example, the "Burn in layers" (bottom) lift distance is 65 & 65 and you set it as 65 & 150. Why? Thanks! 11:05

[@Perram]

Great video! And happy to see a lot of our minis printed in it.

[@FauxHammer]

thanks for supplying them!

[@rddsat]

I bought the new Sonic 8ks and am soaking up all the info I can before it arrives. Ive watched this post twice. Looking forward to getting my first print done and with the info you provided here I am very hopeful my first print will turn out well. thanks!

[@FauxHammer]

If you follow this, your firstvleingbwill be the best file, assuming you have the 8k resin and you're not in a low temp environment. Should be fine

[@tcunero]

Best guide channel ive seen yet

[@TehGreatFred]

Only correction here is what you said about going above 40s for base exposure. For older models of printers which did not use a monochrome LCD, then the base exposure is usually much much more than 40s. not common to new printers at all, but the older ones like Mars 1 will have longer base exposures

[@FauxHammer]

Fair point, I'm too modern

[@JerryBWagoner]

About the 3rd time I've ran across this video. Still helpful. Still pulling nuggets of info from it.

[@Lurker1222]

Fantastic video Mr. Ross. I'm really looking forward to the support video coming up soon.

[@CarlosNegrini-v1t]

im on the verge of buying my first 3d printer. but i also see that there is a wash and cure kit but it is pretty pricy imo, do i need this?

[@FauxHammer]

you will need to wash and post cure your prints. cheapest way is a pickle-jar for wash and sunlight to cure. but yeah, a dedicated wash and cure station really helps

[@mikebowers7161]

Absolutely spot on thank you!! Halot Mage 8k is now working as it should

[@Chimer24-qs5wo]

I hadn't watched this video before Ross but it's saved to my playlist now. Great stuff, thank you )O(

[@manosjj8404]

I have another question. Wash&Cure process has to be done exactly after tbe end of the printing or we can do it after some hours or a day?

[@FauxHammer]

Yeah you can do it later. I’ve left prints for days before washing. But keep them out of direct sunlight. During that time

[@manosjj8404]

So I can leave them into printer without any problem or you mean to take them out of printer first and then leave them?

[@FauxHammer]

@@manosjj8404either, just keep them away from uv light whilst you’re waiting

[@markoramljak9579]

a detailed video about properly supporting your models will be great... I tend to oversupport my models... I rarely get a print fail, but then again, I always wonder how to minimize supports and still get a successful print... sure, different resins require different supports but still.. anyway, looking forward to that video.. cheers!

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks, my first one will be a quick guide on auto supports, bit highly regimens The Lions Tower in twitch dir detailed guides. Requires lychee pro however

[@rafaelsemedo119]

Awesome video, man! Very educational. Thank you!

[@FauxHammer]

Glad you liked it!

[@DnD_Painted_Miniatures]

So cold is bad, need heater. But what about 100 degree humid Texas summers in an included garage? Uniformation chat support said it should be fine for their GK Two, as long as not in direct sunlight. What should I look for in the way of issues that may be caused by higher Temps or humidity?

[@FauxHammer]

Loon for I early soft resin, you will see signs of stretching and elk nation on the z-axis of your print. Potentially some soft details. But too hot is far less of an issue than too cold

[@DnD_Painted_Miniatures]

@@FauxHammer Thanks, can this be compensated for with settings. Or do I seriously need rethink setting up printers in my garage in my environment?

[@FauxHammer]

@@DnD_Painted_Miniatures im Not sure, I don't think reducing the power of the led array will help, that will just diffuse it more. I honestly do not think it's that much of a worry, but I've never pro he's in such climates. Never seen any evidence online though of. My weather is too hot

[@blaze556922]

Why do you pour over the top of the plate instead of into the vat itself? I've seen both ways but is there a benefit of it not splashing or something?

[@FauxHammer]

Nah, it just looks cool

[@Mandis13]

Getting my 3D printer room set up for my first printer this weekend. My hopes is that your video will save me some hassle when I start down this road. :)

[@FauxHammer]

let me know how it goes pelase

[@juliodolmus5720]

Im still trying to get the same crisp details on my printd like the ones you showed here. Im not very tech savy and so far only 2 prints came out great, but the 28mm models seem to have very little contrast between details. They kinda look shallow compared to yours. I have a anycubic mono x 6k, still trying to figure out how to properly set up my printer so i dont get random quality of prints.

[@pablofiasco2]

love your vids, this one especially is quite helpful, it reminds me i need to photo and pack up all my 40k stuff, to sell off to raise funds for a printer of some sort!

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks so much, I need to do the same

[@Lacainam]

This is super helpful! Thanks for the no bs insight to getting started

[@Osse22]

Excellent, helped a lot getting my first resin printer up and running.

[@josephhalfacre1584]

Great video. Can't wait to put it into practice when get my 1st resin printer set up.

[@FauxHammer]

let me know how it goes.

[@InnuendoOutTheOther]

I know you're on the 3d printing thing, Ross but you're a great painter - id love to see some more tutorials

[@FauxHammer]

As soon as I have time, I'm getting back to it, i promise!

[@LucidFX.]

thank you again, question: why do you pour the resin over the build plate and let it run off into the tank rather than directly into the tank? any reason?

[@BsrlinMAZ]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I am brand new to 3d printing...and your videos have so much useful, helpful information. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, advice and tips so that a person like me who is just starting down this rabbit-hole does not make costly mistakes. 👍 I have a question: in some parts of the video (at 6:40 for example) you show clips where the person in pouring the resin over the top of the build-plate while it is raised some distance above the vat -- does this not lead to the possibility of splatter and little droplets of resin splashing outside of the vat as the resin runs over the edge and drops down 4-6 inches into the vat below? Is there a reason for pouring the resin like that versus pouring it directly into the vat? Sorry for a dumb question, if the answer is obvious to others -- but as I said I am brand new to all of this (still waiting for my printer to arrive). Thank you for your time and assistance. Subscribed/liked.

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks so much In return, this is one of the most common questions I get and the answer is. It just looks more cinematic. Don’t do this

[@GeekCreek73]

i like to see content about mechanical accuracy , thank you for the videos great content

[@leighanddansinclair1696]

I would be interested to know if you've encountered the problem of your prints experiencing surface cracking (often only after many weeks), especially for thicker parts? I've found it an issue on my Saturn 2 using eSun water washable resin. As far as I've been able to find out, water washable resins are more prone to this cracking (unfortunately, logistical constraints mean I am limited to using water-washable resins). Feedback I've had suggests that the following could be contributing: 1) Over-curing (I now limit minis to max 2 minutes in the curing station), 2) keeping uncured prints in the wash or exposed to water for too long (I now try to keep washing step to 2 min and try to dab/blow dry immediately upon removal), and 3) curing prints before the surface has fully dried (I now dry my uncured prints overnight before curing). However, I still can't print big pieces because of the high likelihood of them developing surface cracks after a few weeks/months. Do you have any thoughts?

[@FauxHammer]

Yep, a few times, usually always in water washable resins. Typically its over curing or liquid reain still inside cavities

[@ErikaDiaz-r7u]

Great videos as always. Probably you have spoken on all of these subjects in the past but i was not able to find it. What are your recommendations on settings when in comes to the lift and retract speeds (vroom), the light off rest, the transition layer count, lift distances and so on. Could you share a bit about your preferences there please. I am aware exposure times vary 100% on the resin and specific working conditions. But all those other settings i mentioned seem to be aimed around either optimizing the overall printing time or the lifespan of the screen (such as decent bottom exposure time around 5x your average layer exposure time, light off to let the screen cool, etc) I would really appreciate your suggestions.

[@FauxHammer]

honestly, with those settings, I rarely care unless there's an issue. when I take my initial settings from either lychee or the defaults. they are good enough for me. If you want to dial in a printer to that degree, I suggest heading to your printer's support group. If I can get a printer "working", that's good enough for me.

[@nathanelacey]

@fauxhammer at 12:13 what do you call that bucket with a plastic insert to do a quick wash on small parts? I have been looking for something like that and I cannot find it!

[@FauxHammer]

Pickle jar mate. Get 2

[@nathanelacey]

@@FauxHammer thanks so much!!!

[@BrunoInfante]

Thanks for the video, it came in the right moment for me, right now I am calibrating my GkTwo which I bought with your Code. I will keep following this guide until everything is ready to print armies. Keep up the good work, will be waiting to the videos about supports.

[@FauxHammer]

this should get you set up and working within hours, this is exactly what i did on my GK TWO

[@BrunoInfante]

Not sure if you had opportunity to test messing with Light power. I had the best result with 1.2sec exposure and 90% power on chitubox on Gktwo.

[@schtoff8200]

Thanks for this video bud. My saturn 3 is now dialled in for Sunlu clear green resin.

[@BennyParkyn]

Thank you so much. I watched this ahead of my printer arriving (a couple of times) and it was so bloomin useful. Less than 24 hours and I've printed out some usable stuff that looks great (in my opinion!). The printer (Mars 4(3) Max) was bought off your recommendation (and link) and I'm using your resin... I'm easy to sell to... I hit buyers remorse at almost exactly the point you suggested one might (though because the sandisk USB I bought seems to not work... is there such a thing as a too good USB?)... but pushed through and I'm chuffed! Thanks!

[@FauxHammer]

Just make sure the USB is formatted as FAT32 before you start, you should be good. If not, return it. The USB drive I mean

[@BennyParkyn]

Thanks, I'll try sort it though Windows 11 won't let me format it as Fat32 (it says it already is though). Sortable with extra software. It was intermittant file errors and to fix it I changed both the slicer and the drive (in my desperation to get something printed!)... so not sure which did the trick but I'll experiment at some point. The drive is 128gb maybe somethign to do with it... anyway, didn't mean to turn this into troublshooting but appreciate the advice! Thanks again. @@FauxHammer

[@FauxHammer]

It may be the size of the drive, I’ve never used 128GB I believe FAT 32 has a limit. So I imagine it’s windows trying to be helpful and now allowing fat32 on such a large device. The third party software is forcing it but because it’s going beyond those array size limits, the printer can’t read it. I think the larger drive I’ve ever used is 8gb

[@BennyParkyn]

@@FauxHammer I believe the limit might be 32!

[@BennyParkyn]

Just incase it's useful info for someone in the future... the Mars 4 Max (and at a guess the other Mars 3/4s? ) apparently only supports 4/8gb USB 2.0 drives. Which doesn't make tons of sense but after trying another 32gb USB 3.0 stick and failing I actually read the internet...

[@edwincaicedo5478]

sus videos son de referencia ,muchas gracias

[@_Kerberos_]

Something I see you do often, but you didn't mention in the video; why do you pour the resin onto the back of the build plate to fill the vat?

[@FauxHammer]

Just looks nicer on video, that is all. I get so many comments about it. It's become my salt bae move now

[@_Kerberos_]

@@FauxHammer Hahaha, awesome.

[@idahojake2296]

Awesome overview video for starting.

[@paddya3304]

I’m on the fence about whether I should get a 3d printer. First up, I have to admit that I’m not the most technically minded guy and I’ve heard that 3d printing is very involved due to the numerous issues this still developing technology has (just what I’ve heard and I appreciate there are helpful folk like yourself who make videos to make life easier). Second thing is, I don’t (can’t, to be honest) spend a hell of a lot on miniatures. I generally tend to buy off of eBay, with very much mixed results. The temptation to get a 3d printer to print a much wider range of miniatures (I’m only really interested in painting ‘em, don’t play the games anymore) is great but I wanted to know if, in your opinion, it would be worth me getting one (and if so, which? Something fairly cheap but as reliable (and idiot proof) would be ideal). Sorry, but of an essay there but I’d appreciate any advice you could give.

[@FauxHammer]

Get the GKTWO,(see my video) it's still messy, resin printing is messy. but it's designed out so many of the 3d printing issues that it will be easyier than any other for youu. but it;s expensive. if you spend money on minis like i do. tho. just don;t buy any this week lol

[@paddya3304]

Cheers for the reply, really appreciate the advice.I reckon I’ll give it a go. The price of miniatures is getting pretty insane (plus 3d printing looks really fun.. when everything works).

[@jod3000]

Really curious why you pour your resin in over the raised plate? I usually pour in from the lip of the vat and give it a gentle stir before starting

[@FauxHammer]

It's a secret 😜

[@dudleyjohn06]

Great video. Very informative and thorough.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

I'm on step 3, dialing in my exposure times. Using Siraya Tech Fast on my Saturn 3 Ultra, I started with the Siraya Tech profile which was 30s base and 2.2s layer times, but the first print came out so stuck to the BUILD PLATE that any attempt to scrape it off just shattered it. I then lowered the times to 28s and 2s and the second print I was able to get off in one piece but noticed it had only a couple holes. So I'm still tweaking this but just wanted to post this here in case anyone else has a similar issue. I'm NOT expert but just from my own hands-on here it looks like if the print is really stuck to the build plate it might need lower exposure times.

[@Andersonzabuza]

I was redirected here by Fauxhammer, and I appreciate the redirection haha. Looking forward to seeing the tips in the video!

[@FauxHammer]

Glad you watched it, hope it was helpful, or at least informative

[@Andersonzabuza]

@@FauxHammer It was, I definitely got some useful tips for when I get a new printer in that I'll need to apply. Can't wait for the support video still, but this was informative and helpful too.

[@3dpathfinder]

So I got the Halot Mage and did a small first print of a magic kitten for my son and it worked great. Tried a second print off the USB stick that came with the printer called a mage berserker and it seemed to be printing fine but for some reason the body didn't print and was stuck to the vat. Tried a second model on the stick and it didn't stick to the plate and it failed. I've leveled it twice now so I don't know. I guess I need to try that calibration square to see , but I'm lost.

[@FauxHammer]

Yep, you are in the right track. Try calibration squares to see if the bed is curing evenly. If not sticking them change base layer exposure value in 5s increments up and down. Around 30 secs should be a good starting point Also check lift speed. Start at 60mm/m or 1mm/s If base layers are curing even. Move on to the next part of the video to get your layer exposure right. Then maybe Nige it Uk a couple tenths of a second just for support security. Some can be finicky If you can’t print the suggested minis after that. Increase more

[@3dpathfinder]

@@FauxHammer also I wish I could try your resin. I see not yet in the states, what budget friendly resin would you recommend, besides yours. Something that works well but won't kill you if prints fail.

[@FauxHammer]

@@3dpathfinder I honestly have f tested enough. I liked DLP craftsman before we made ours.

[@3dpathfinder]

@@FauxHammer and that would be fine on the halot?

[@FauxHammer]

@@3dpathfinder all resins work on all printers

[@stephenrussell9233]

Loved this vid! you convinced me to buy the GKTwo and I cannot wait to start! Cheers Ross!

[@stephenrussell9233]

Bought GKtwo last month when your vid came out!

[@daynafost]

I got four good prints and that was with red clear resin. As soon as I changed to gray opaque I haven't got it to print a single print.

[@FauxHammer]

Follow this and it should work.

[@turbosnowy]

Some nooby questions here - how do you know how much resin to pour in when you are going to make something. If you have resin left over in the tray after making something what do you do with it? It's expensive stuff so I'm hoping you don't just have to throw it away - can you pour it back into a bottle to use again later? If you use resin that needs IPA to wash, if you have a wash machine that say holds lots of IPA, can you reuse the IPA in the machine time and time again or do you need to empty it out after use (again can you pour back into a bottle for use another time, or is it now spoiled and you might have just used 7 litres of IPA (looking at you Uniformation wash machine) to wash one 25mm orc you just made?

[@FauxHammer]

Yes to both. You can pour resin back in the bottle and most printers come with some filters just for that purpose too. But I just leave it in the vat til the next print. Ipa can be used loads of time but if let it sit with a high resin content in, will go thick and cloud. Takes a a while though. But I don't use ipa, I use odourless metheylated spirits

[@turbosnowy]

@@FauxHammer Brill thanks sounds like a cheeky tip you just gave me as GW like to say. How long will resin stay fine sitting in a tray? If for example I wont be doing another print for over a week would you want to funnel it back into a bottle for safe keeping or does it stay fine for ever if not subjected to UV?

[@FauxHammer]

@@turbosnowy I've had it in there months. It will need a stir before you use it again, but so long a its not in dircct sunlight. It'll be just one it is in the bottle

[@turbosnowy]

@@FauxHammer Excellent that's good news - thanks Ross

[@joancanario6377]

Hello, I'm new to this, important question, why not assemble the miniature in the 3D program and then print the complete figure? Or is there something I don't know about printing them in parts? I'm obviously talking about small miniatures like space marines. Greetings from the Dominican Republic

[@TheRblackburn1985]

Why do you pour the resin on top of the build plate?

[@Dheart197]

@fauxHammer Are there any clearer shots of transferring settings from Lychee to Chitubox?

[@jameskillbot2867]

Wouldn’t going DLP allow much more wiggle room in exposure settings. Like as much as half a second either way without making any difference? Basically allowing most people to use general settings?

[@FauxHammer]

yes, DLP is far easier

[@turbosnowy]

Another question - I see you pour your resin from the top of the plate and let it drip down as opposed to just pouring into the tray directly - is this to prevent bubbles or something? Otherwise it seems to be a messy way to do it :)

[@FauxHammer]

It's just more cinematic, that is all

[@VeneerSlinger]

New to resin printing, just got a mars 4 ultra and a bottle of wargamer. Im sure there is included info with the resin, however, im unsure on calibrating wargamer. I know the exposure cal prints are common practice, but how do i dry wargamer resin after water wash to check for calibration? Is there a certain drying practice or time applicable?

[@FauxHammer]

you don;t need to cure your resin, any resin to check for it's calibration. just rinse it off clean and have a look at the exposure results.

[@chuckrodriguezfishing2799]

Thanks brother, once again awesome assist for the newbies…. This newbie thanks you….

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks so much man!

[@davidc3150]

Your wisdom is always appreciated. I'm a noob and went for the bait that elegoo standard 8k resin would be the way to go. Besides because in my country even the worst resin is around 40usd while resins like elegoo abs like and elegoo 8k standard are between 50 and 60 usd.....as I was saying I took the marketing bait and bought several 8k resins. I am looking to print miniatures and trying to reduce the brittleness I just bought a few siraya tenacious clear resin to mix them...any suggestions you know or have heard about on ratios between the 8k elegoo standard resin and the tenacious? Thanks a lot for the patience to read this

[@FauxHammer]

5% -20% you can mix as high as you want but you get a tradeoff of detail sharpness at the cost of flexibility. It's about picking what you like most

[@SupaaMann]

Step 2 gave me "draw the rest of the owl" vibes 😂 Great guide, definitely going to refer back when/if I get a resin printer to go along with my vorons

[@FauxHammer]

lol, don't worry, it may fail. it's meant to just give you something to do

[@IvanPyvovarov666]

hi again, i need help, I bought a Saturn 3, set it up by your video, elegoo ABS like 3.0 resin, layers -0,05 mm, base layers with an exposure time of 25s print perfectly, and then it starts to stick to the film and tear off, exposure time 1.7s - 1.8s

[@phr00tpie]

Thanx for the vid and the information but...why the fork do you always pour resin over your build plate? You've hinted in other videos that theres a reason but the fork is it?

[@FauxHammer]

because it generates comments, that is all. i started because it's just more interesting to watch in a video than the usual way, but comments made such a big deal about it's become my salt-bae move.