Stainless Steel Brake/Fuel Line How To Flare and Bend

[@johnbehneman1546]

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! A MUST WATCH FOR BEGINNERS!!! I LOVE BENT STAINLESS STEEL. SO ELEGANT AND CLASSY. I NEED TO BUY THOSE TOOLS. SO I MAY BEND SOME STAILESS STEEL BRAKES LINES ON MY EDSEL. GREAT VIDEO AND THANKS FOR SHARING. PLEASE CONTINUE TO SPEAK YOUR TRUTH.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it was helpful!

[@cameronsiedlecki1727]

I’m a newbie and am replacing the brake lines on my 64 Falcon HT with stainless. I appreciate the instruction and encouragement.

[@metalshaperJeep]

appreciate you watching

[@williambolden8634]

Excellent, I will be subscribing to your channel 4sure. I love to learn from craftsmen who are willing to share what they have been blessed to hone in on the talents they have . Thank you. A retired novice who loves turning wrenches

[@metalshaperJeep]

Thanks for watching

[@philandrews1924]

Well I'm a newbie and have been pulling out my hair trying to double flare a stainless brake line in a small space on my truck. The original line rusted out at the fittings and I couldn't get them out. So I bypassed the original junction and made my own. I was down to my last 3" of stainless line before it disappeared into the box frame when I found your video. Couldn't figure out why the seal wouldn't hold. It was the bevel you made with the file on the exterior. That worked. My only suggestion and you did mention it several times, is to really put a lot of pressure on the first flare. It didn't work until I bent the "T" handle. Glad to hear I'm not the only one who learned the hard way to put the gosh darn fitting on FIRST. Thank you for your video. NEVER assume that we know what you're talking about, it's the details that make your video great!

[@eric63377]

Hydraulic flaring tool from mastercool.

[@cbowjr1]

Metalshaper. Thank you for the video. Although I have done many steel brake lines before, I was struggling to get a proper double flare on a stainless tube. After watching your video and following your tips and advise, I got the perfect double flare. The only thing I did different was use my belt sander to bevel the tube end ( which works really great ) Thank you.

[@private9743]

Thank you. This "basic" tutorial is 100% on point/what I needed. Thank you again.

[@winnmahuron6314]

Thank you for making this video. You explained everything clearly and I appreciate the time you took to make it.

[@jonbon1904]

Thanks for another informative video which I'll refer to in the future when I need to do my own lines. Just a word of caution on 304SS - it will rust if you live near the coast or in a salty air environment. I first found this out when I sailed catamarans years ago and made many of my own fittings. I normally used 316SS, but one time used 304 which I had available. Within a few weeks of sailing, the fitting, including the 304SS nuts and bolts I used, began to show signs of rust. I did some research and found that 316SS has molybdenum added to it for resistance to chlorides. 304 doesn't have molybdenum added. Also, I live about 400 metres from the ocean and "stainless steel" barbecues and furniture start to rust eventually, as they are normally made from 304SS or lower grade stainless. Hope this helps anyone who lives near the ocean :) Again. thanks for the video.

[@metalshaperJeep]

I also use 316 for marine environments, but for most automotive applications 304 is fine. I use 304 for headers, brake and fuel lines, etc.... and never had a rusting issue.

[@stevehurt1227]

Excellent and very useable information; including warnings for possible direction on doing the job; certainly helps prevent mistakes; you provided information on the lines make up of some copper, nickel, and related metals; believe Porsche used this material in some of their brake lines; now know why use stainless steel unions; lots of good information and very helpful. Will have to watch several times for getting all the information correctly. I think this is one of your best videos and provides very useful information; does show the extent of your diverse knowledge and skills.

[@dalejohnson9342]

You are the first person that has mentioned the bevel on the cut edge that I have seen. We always did thins in the Navy when I was in. I did notice that the newer persons would not do that and they usually ended with a split in the inner part of the flare. Good work explaining the double flare and I hope that the new people and also the older people pay attention to that little jewel of information that you put in there. It also makes it easier for the tool to roll the tube so that the flare comes out correctly. Also there is a difference in the angle of the flare depending on whether you are doing brakes or A N fittings.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Thanks for the comment Dale. When most people see me do things correctly and have never seen it before they always send comments that I am doing it wrong. You are the first person to recognize the bevel as correct. I have been doing stuff correctly for many, many years, and getting grief for it the whole time. Sure is refreshing to meet someone who agrees with me on the proper procedures. Thanks again, Brian

[@duaneadams3786]

You sir are one hundred percent correct I've done tubing work for years ive done a lot of cars in stainless lines including a lot of local race cars the biggest thing for guys to remember is deburr and tapper and go at it slow

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad to finally have another person who understands how to bend and flare stainless steel tubing. Great to hear from you.

[@heyyoubuddy6749]

Hi Brian thank you for this video. I will need to replace my brake lines on my cj5. Now I'll will use stainless. Merry Christmas to you and yours

[@Kc7kid8]

Thanks for the video I am not a newbie to auto work just 1st time doing my own brake lines so this is alot of help

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it helped you out, thanks for watching. Brian

[@sydrider6023]

Super informative, very good video!👍

[@metalshaperJeep]

Thank you! 👍

[@a4000t]

I just had fun with some lines from the right stuff, their steel brake lines ended up having almost every flare leak,inspecting them crooked flares on almost all lines,they should be ashamed for what they charge for this stuff. You are right,it's completely pointless to make stainless lines with steel nuts,i don't know why they do this! Learned my lesson,i will make my own from here on out.

[@dznm10]

As usual nice and professional presentation, Brian!..thumbs up...

[@metalshaperJeep]

thanks for the comment, great to have you on the channel.

[@arthurfricchione8119]

New subscriber. Excellent video. Will be going through your play list I’m sure there are some very good ones. Hope there are some on laying out and bending. The actual lines. Thanks for your time and knowledge. Artie 👍👍👍

[@dougromonovich8807]

Thank you so much! Stainless premade lines are wrong on my 00 excursion made rm work ty!

[@wyattoneable]

Good information for my memory banks. I've always been shy of using SS because it's such a hard material. Now that I see it being manipulated I think I'll try it next time I need a line.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad you got some good information from my video. Don't be worried about using stainless steel lines. Get some good flaring tools, take your time, and you will come out with a brake or fuel line that will last a lifetime. Brian

[@453421abcdefg12345]

An excellent tutorial ! I have to say the only additional thing I do is to use a little brake grease on the tube end before I flare, I find this prevents the galling you sometimes get without it's use,( I know the flaring point is supposed to stay still with the pipe, but it rarely does), the really important part of this job,(especially on stainless), is the preparation of the tube end, the slightest burr or out of square results in a very asymmetrical flare, I think that most failures on this job are down to incorrect preparation of the tube end, and a good measure of inpatients on the part of the operator, over in Europe we call the bog standard copper alloy pipe Bundy tube, it works well, but the stainless is the way to go for a restoration job, I see you made a special mention of making sure the insulating tubes and flange nut were on the tube before forming up your last flare ! How many of us have left those off? Cheers Chris B.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Always nice to hear your views on my videos. The lube is a good idea, I sometimes use it on larger tubes. I always try to promote taking your time when flaring, prepping everything correctly, and not trying to rush a restoration job. It sure does help to get the nut on before the last flare as well. We have all been there !!!

[@travispoppler8023]

Great video. Wish I could have seen this before I first did this years ago. My biggest issue was leaving too much line out (measured incorrect) and it messed up the flare due to too much material I think. Really enjoy your videos.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Keep watching for more tips on auto restoration, sheet metal fabrication, and many other projects. Glad you are enjoying the channel. Brian

[@eric63377]

How many times have we all flared it perfect and then look on the table and the tubing nut isn't on the line 😂😡🤬. Lol

[@flagstaff866]

Nice information, where do you get your stainless fittings and for how much? Will you a video on bubble flares?

[@joecrachemontange4613]

i still use my fathers flaring tool from the late 40's , still works great.

[@metalshaperJeep]

just goes to show you how good tools were made in the past. I have a lot of old tools and machinery in use every day.

[@joecrachemontange4613]

i hear you , my best vacuum is a 1952 pullman and i changed the power cord last year and thats all i did to it , just keeps on running.

[@shadowdog500]

I bought that same exact set on a mac truck and the two halves are off just enough to make every flair lopsided. My friend got his on a snap on truck back in the 70s and I can make perfect flairs on it every time. Both sets are identical right down to the box and the instruction sheet, so they don’t make them like they used to. I finally broke down a few years ago and bought the Eastwood pro flair kit which makes it so easy that you can’t mess up a flair. I have a extremely short video of it in action that I can link here if you want to see it in action. Chris

[@453421abcdefg12345]

You will find time after time that the old tooling, if looked after, will outperform the new stuff every time, profit is what everyone is after, in the past quality was the aim, now the more chrome and glitz is what sells things, Snap Off tools were once first class, now most of them are China with a SO label, they can afford a lifetime warranty because they charge you 5 time the true cost, they are of course a fashion item for young mechanics.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Like i always say the quality of the flare is directly proportional to the quality of the tool. Glad you found one you like.

[@cecil6711]

Great video on a terrific topic. Thank you. :-)

[@metalshaperJeep]

glad you enjoyed it, I am trying to bring out videos that cover the basics to the more advanced.

[@rakkassan2187]

Great tutorial..much thanks.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it was helpful!

[@briansmythe3219]

Thank you verry informative

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it was helpful!

[@NOBOX7]

Bro thanks for posting , ill make it a point to buy the tools from your links

[@MegaEagle2006]

GOOD JOB YOU MAKE IT LOOK EASY THANKS

[@edstransitscott9186]

Brian, I bought a Koeing wench from a guy yesterday for a $100.00. He was going to junk it, it has carrier bearings, and all u-joints, and Shafts, even the cradle with the rollers. A 100 model,

[@metalshaperJeep]

Sounds like the deal of a lifetime, glad you were able to save it from the scrapyard. I have one on my wrecker cj6 and showed it in use when setting some steel for the sawmill. You sure will be happy with that winch. Brian

[@fishhuntadventure]

Oh, winch. Not wench. For a second I was aghast at buying a wench for $100

[@lesliemclean4381]

So if the stainless steel line keeps pushing down on the first and second flaring process no matter how tight you lock line in Vice ,that's because of cheap equipment would you say?

[@metalshaperJeep]

Yes, you need a quality flaring set to work with stainless steel lines.

[@hoss1947]

On some brake systems there are one, or two complete coils on the tube that screws into the master cylinder. Can you show how to make those complete coils in the brake tube.

[@CarolinaShagger]

Brian, thanks for these videos! I've decided to make my own stainless-steel lines. I'm thinking of using stainless steel braided PTFE with stainless fittings for the flexible lines. My concern is with the fittings that are installed using a compression type seal. I can't see putting all the stainless in and then putting regular steel fittings in for the flexible line. So, I'm wondering what you do with the flexible sections when you install stainless-steel lines.

[@metalshaperJeep]

I usually use rubber hoses for my flexible lines and they have a cad plated steel fitting on each end. Keep them rust free by spraying with Fluid Film every year along with the whole underside. Or you can get stainless steel flexible braided hoses with stainless ends on them. Be careful when buying them as a lot of them are not DOT approved and you can not use them on the road. Brian

[@CarolinaShagger]

Brian, Thanks for the information. I did notice when I was investigating the flexible line that, for example, the ones I looked at Summit Racing, noted that they were off-road use only. I think I'll use the rubber with cad plated steel. Thanks for the videos, and keep them coming! I'm learning a lot!

[@matthewevans8469]

I definitely fit into the category of shying away from stainless because I've heard it's a bear. Any tips on which flaring to kit to purchase? For first couple attempts are the rentals from autozone/orreilly's acceptable?

[@metalshaperJeep]

Ridgid professional flaring tool kit works good and my favorite is the Snap on unit that I am using in the video. File the end of the tubing a bit and clamp it securely and you shouldn't have any trouble. I have made thousands of flares on stainless steel lines without any trouble, and have never had a leak on any flares. Take you time, get a good flaring kit, and you should be fine. Brian

[@smh339]

Hello, I'm looking to do 1/2" supply return stainless fuel line, E85 700hp but can't find stainless 1/2" inverted tube flare nuts. Any ideals? Looked at all the supply houses.

[@metalshaperJeep]

The larger diameter flare nuts are often hard to find. You can use zinc plated steel nuts or just have a cnc lathe shop turn you some stainless steel flare nuts in the size you need.

[@H20chromer]

wont the stainless steel fitting react over time being screwed into the aluminum wheel cylinder?

[@metalshaperJeep]

H20chromer use anti seize and you won’t have any trouble

[@tempermental-hx8cn]

Great instructional videos brother thank you be safe

[@metalshaperJeep]

as always great to have you watching.

[@Jmunoz1675]

Great video, thank you so much

[@thatswhy11]

I need a fuel line flare kit for my 1986 Camaro Z28. Can you direct me in the right? I have a carburetor, this will go from the carburetor to the fuel pump.Thank you.

[@eric63377]

He's using the blue point kit from snap on.

[@joshuaward692]

22:35 "..as you can see here's our flare. Nice and square, nice and round." haha what? Just kidding, awesome video.

[@oddball0022]

He probably meant squared up as in properly centered and then round as in circular, not an oval shape.

[@ЖеняБойко-у4т]

What is the maximum wall thickness of inox tube, that can be flared?

[@michaelvalone907]

Will this work on fuel lines as well?

[@metalshaperJeep]

yes it will work exactly the same weather the line is for brake fluid or fuel. Thanks for watching.

[@seelan191919]

Real helping to my jaguar s type !!

[@hoveasy]

Very helpful, thank you

[@metalshaperJeep]

glad the video helped you, thanks for watching.

[@jshafer51]

Ever had any problems with the stainless tube nut galling on the backside of the stainless flare?

[@metalshaperJeep]

Never had one seize up on me. If you are concerned about it a little bit of anti seize will cure any potential problems.

[@geoben427]

Hi Brian, you mention the single reservoir master cylinder. Have you ever installed a dual reservoir master cylinder? If so, do you have a recommendation? I'm planning on upgrading to the 11" drums, and would like to upgrade the master cylinder as well.

[@metalshaperJeep]

I have put dual reservoir master cylinders in plenty of times. You can use the later CJ5 master cylinder, but you will need to make or buy the correct bracket to mount it and the lines will be different as well. I may make a video of it if I decide to put one on the CJ5 snowblower jeep. Brian

[@garydeandeery]

Is copper the best for making new brake lines ??

[@metalshaperJeep]

Do not use copper for brake lines, it can not hold up to the pressures involved in a brake system.

[@garydeandeery]

metalshaper what would you used steel lines

[@metalshaperJeep]

@@garydeandeery There are many options for brake lines these days. I like stainless steel. If you want something easy to work with you can use the nickel, Iron, Copper blend line, it flares and bends super easy. There are also coated steel lines available at auto parts stores as well.

[@garydeandeery]

metalshaper thanks buddy great help

[@kracksmith4ejm1]

do you have a link to the stainless steel flare kit?

[@haledmondson2756]

How much do the stainless fittings cost at the supply store?...Hal

[@metalshaperJeep]

Depends on size of fitting and how many you buy.

[@donjaun2543]

I was told you don't need a double flare on stainless, for one thing stainless won't bend that easy and its plenty strong enough with a single flare. Only need a double on steel or copper/nickel.

[@metalshaperJeep]

The world is full of incorrect information. Every flare on any material needs to be a double flare for automotive use. If you choose to use a single flare do so at your own risk.

[@nategcole]

Great video! I have not yet had to run new fuel or brake lines for my 3B, but I'm definitely bookmarking this video. For my information, why would you ever choose single flare over a double?

[@metalshaperJeep]

Single flares are not safe on brake and fuel lines. You must always use a double flare. Some guys just clamp the tube and then bevel it with the flaring yoke to make a single flare. Not safe or the proper way to do it. ALWAYS use a double flare.

[@enterBJ40]

What is a 3B?

[@nategcole]

@@enterBJ40 it's an early model Willys. CJ2A , CJ3A, CJ3B etc

[@enterBJ40]

Ok.got it. Inside brand nomenclature jargon

[@victoroneill7924]

I apologize. I should have watched the whole video before I made this comment. The professional race car builders say you don't need to double flare stainless steel brake lines. I just tried to do a double flare on a piece of 1/4" 409 stainless steel brake line off of my 1980 Chevy K20 just for practice with a flaring tool just like yours and it failed on the first step. The tubing wouldn't bend inward so you could complete the 45 degree double flare. I spent the last hour looking online for a double flaring tool for stainless lines but they all say their tools aren't for stainless steel, but only soft steel or nickel/copper. I'm just trying to replace about 16" of brake line where it attaches to the rear rubber line going to the differential. The pro mechanic who replaced the rubber line years ago used a pair of vice grips to replace the old rubber line and rounded all the corners off the rubber line nut. I had to cut it off with a cutoff tool. See my comment below.

[@victoroneill7924]

Never mind I watched whole vide and I'll try again. I only have to make one flare on my truck. I have a 1/4" to 3/16" adapter and some stainless steel fittings. I'm using 3/16" nickel/copper line (easy to double crimp) for the other lines I need to make. I'm converting the rear brakes from drum to disc.

[@jessiej3991]

no matter how much I tighten the clamp the stainless line slides back still can't figure out how to flare stainless lines

[@Jimo225]

I read somewhere that it is dangerous to do a double flare on stainless brake lines because the amount of manipulation to the metal can cause it to split later. I hear to properly flare stainless your supposed to do some other type of flare with some insert. Has anyone else heard this?

[@stephenfuquay885]

yes i've been told the same, How come you did not do 3/16 brake line that is the most common line. i l like the idea of using 37 degree flare with a S.S. sleeve, but to each there own. Good post

[@klipseracer]

Very informative, appreciate the video covering some fundamentals. It seems like everything I've seen for stainless tube and AN fittings mentions a single flare and a sleeve. How would you treat that situation in a high pressure fuel environment (4000+ PSI)

[@metalshaperJeep]

What type of project are you working on with 4000 psi ? Do your homework before purchasing and installing the lines or let me know what you are working on so I can point you in the right direction.

[@klipseracer]

metalshaper this is for direct injection high pressure fuel lines, gasoline/ethanol. It's an automotive application.

[@eric63377]

Direct injection lines are double flare. And I haven't measured wall thickness but I believe the standard 1/4 - 3/8 stainless looks to be same as direct injection lines.

[@Kactapuss]

Thanks for sharing, learned a great deal.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it was helpful!

[@richardmiller3781]

I noticed you showed flaring steel lines and only the after for stainless steel. You can't double flare stainless with a soft steel flaring kit.

[@metalshaperJeep]

The lines in the video were stainless steel that I flared. It was explained clearly that the line was stainless steel so I have no idea why you think it was plain steel. A perfect flare was shown so not sure why you say it can't be done.

[@richardmiller3781]

metalshaper I am not saying the tube is not stainless, I am saying you did not flare it on camera. All we got to see was the after and not the actual flaring. That's all.

[@cbowjr1]

Mr. Miller, I just put a perfect double flare on stainless tube with my Napa bought flare kit, following the videos instructions, so it does work Sir.

[@godfrey_of_america]

Where the heck do you get affordable fittings??

[@superdutymustang87]

Summit racing I think its a pack of 16

[@Gabriel_Hudelson]

Very helpful. Thank you!

[@jeremynance2]

I heard your not supposed to double flare stainless hmm 🤔 good to know

[@metalshaperJeep]

Any type of automotive application needs a double flare no matter what you use. Steel, or stainless steel.

[@jeremynance2]

@@metalshaperJeep alright thank you sir 🤘😁👍

[@JVR_Funwithdesign]

@@metalshaperJeep A metric DIN bubble flare is a single flare and a JIC/AN 37 degree flare is a single flare, both perfectly acceptable for autos and can be used for brake, fuel, Power Steering and AC lines.

[@junioredma9348]

Bonjour svp kotemap Jenn li

[@donjaun2543]

If your gonna show us how to flare Stainless steel, don't you think you should be using stainless steel when demonstrating.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Watch the entire video and pay attention. There is a clear and precise demonstration of stainless steel line in the video.