Stand alone ls swap harness fuse block logic.

[@lilpoindexter]

THANK YOU SIR, YOU ARE THE MAN! Im swapping an '04 6.0L into my '63 C10...I dont want the big ugly ECM inside the cab, I want to keep the factory wiring, but i dont want to use the big ugly yukon fuse block. Im going to use the mechanical fan that comes with the 6.0L at first, so i dont need extra relays for the fans. This explains things perfectly. Now maybe I will be able to sleep.

[@pmotorsports8276]

Good job. I did the same. The only difference is that I ran 2 separate 12VDC leads. 1 supplying my ignition keyed power relay. And constant 12VDC constant

[@tonguedarts]

Excellent explanation. This is exactly what I needed to see. Thanks for creating this video.

[@y5mgisi]

The best videos I found just recently are from the channel "UCanDoIt2" on his project rowdy series. Seriously the best.

[@xxreddmanxx22]

Thank-you for a good explanation and showing it

[@FilterYT]

Nice job, nice and clean.

[@davidcuevas788]

Sick setup 👍🏼

[@josenarvaez5338]

Awesome video sir!! Basically I have my harness ready. But I’m stuck on where to hook/splice the grey wire for the fuel pump. Do I hooked/spliced to the grey wire on the fuel pump conector/harness? Tia

[@y5mgisi]

Yes. The grey wire from the fuel pump relay goes straight to the fuel pump or spliced into the connector at the fuel pump.

[@sdalin27]

Is one of the pink wires getting 12 v from the orange to the PCM, and then fed back to the small pink? I have a crank no start and what I did was tie all pinks together. They get 12v on ignition and start. Wondering if one of those pinks is trying to feed power and then I’m connecting power to power.

[@y5mgisi]

@@sdalin27 no you have it right. All pinks should be 12v in start and run, the oranges should be 12v constant.

[@jeremydawkins8399]

Can you just use the fusebox that comes with the stock harness? Seems like a much easier option.

[@JoseContreras-mv5yz]

You can,but this way elimimates all the wires you will not be using thus having a cleaner look.

[@lilpoindexter]

Im not sure if you ever did your swap, but that is one big ugly box, and you only need a 1/3 of it for the engine stuff

[@BesseCustomFabrication]

Helps a lot. Thanks!

[@CatsRuleXOXO]

what gauge is the large red wire? thank you for your help

[@y5mgisi]

It is 12awg.

[@josenarvaez5338]

One question sir. How do I connect the tach wire from the OBS to the ls?

[@y5mgisi]

Depending on the year, you should just be able to hook the original tach wire to the tach wire from ecm.

[@josenarvaez5338]

The truck is a 2000 (obs crew cab, the last obs they made) the harness is from a 2003. I have the tcc wire from the obs and I have another tcc wire coming from the pcm. But I see a lot of people saying that the tcc should be connected to the brake switch been “on” when the brake pedal is not press and been off when the pedal is depressed.

[@y5mgisi]

@@josenarvaez5338 that I'm not too sure about. I'd look on lt1swap.com and see what it says on there.

[@drejackson1000]

Can you test the harness without the engine in the car I just wanted to check my fuel pump but ita not coming on relay clicks on on the harness .... or does the computer have to read other components?

[@y5mgisi]

Just to test it like you're talking about, you do not need any sensors connected. Just power and ground. Also, incase you weren't aware, the fuel pump only kicks on for about 2 seconds unless the computer detects the engine is running. So like, if you apply power and ground to a harness on your work bench, not in the car, the fuel pump relay will come on, and click back off within a couple seconds. Take away the power and then re apply the power and it will come on for another two seconds etc.

[@drejackson1000]

@@y5mgisi thanks I found out my harness wasn't powered up now I'm not to track down the fuel pump wire a d see what she do

[@Romi.Frentescu]

Also is the fuel pump relay control wire is that number 9 on the red connector?

[@y5mgisi]

Yes it is.

[@javierargumedo3]

i save oil level sensor in my ls harness but i dont know what is the wire from PCM that triggers the wire in the cluster to turn the warning low oil level on, when oil pan is low. do you know what wire is this? i will appreciate your help thanks.

[@y5mgisi]

I think it has to go to the body control mudule. But that I don't have good answer for unfortunately.

[@pitlver]

I wired the same way but my ignition hots are staying hot when the key is off but only when I have the pcm plugged in if I unplug the pcm everything works as it should any idea what I’m missing 🤯 I traced the pinks and oranges back to the right spots on the pcm I can’t figure it out

[@y5mgisi]

Not sure. I'd disconnect one wire at a time at the ecm of the pinks and oranges and see which one makes it quit happening and go from there. The pinks should only be hot when the ignition relay is triggered by the key.

[@pitlver]

@@y5mgisi thanks I’ll give it a try

[@ErnestT20963]

Ignition input wire…do you hook that into the big red wire that plugged into the top of the coil? 95 k1500. Then where does my tach wire hook into?

[@y5mgisi]

Yes. Tach wire would go from the ecu to whatever the trucks original tach signal wire would have been.

[@kevinhumphrey932]

Have you got enough pink wires to run the coils and injectors

[@y5mgisi]

Good question. I should make another video on that soon. But yes. I tie in some of the injectors together and splice them, into one wire. Some more injectors and splice them into another wire, etc, etc. So instead of like, 11 separate pink wires coming in to the fuse block, there is only a few.

[@jsc7002jeep]

@@y5mgisi have you had a chance to make a video about all the pink wires? I'm working on my swap now and have been pushing it off a little trying to figure out all the pink wires.

[@y5mgisi]

@@jsc7002jeep hi! I haven't really. What exactly are you having trouble with? I might could make another video on it.

[@jsc7002jeep]

@@y5mgisi Just where I need to wire them to, plus what all they are. I just did a continuity test on them and labeled the wires to the plug but I wasn't sure which ones I need to keep and which ones can go. I'm running a SM465 transmission so I don't need any wires for it.

[@y5mgisi]

@@jsc7002jeep check out lt1swap.com in the wiring harness section. He has pretty much all the info there.

[@TheRealMisterChopShop]

Nice work

[@xips420]

Is this still the go-to fuse box for doing this? It looks like it's not available on Amazon what are you using now?

[@y5mgisi]

I'm currently using the Lsxpdx.com fuse blocks for most harness work.

[@kennethcovington1260]

So I am doing my 240sx s14 what would you recommend

[@y5mgisi]

@@kennethcovington1260 if you're wanting to rework your stock harness, go to lt1swap.com and follow his process. And then just going to have to Google wiring diagrams for the 240 and figure out what wires to keep and delete.

[@mr.ls-s860]

Which fuse box are you using and do the connectors come with it?

[@y5mgisi]

Hi thanks for watching and thanks for the question! It's a generic 10 way fuse block from Amazon. Hopefully this link works. 10 Way Blade Fuse Box Holder 5-Pin Relay Socket Base Block with Fuse Terminals and Fuses for Automotive Car Boat Marine Vehicle www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1JX16Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sg0qCbHWGDBG9

[@mr.ls-s860]

Thanks for the quick response and yes the link works. Good luck on ur build. 👌👍👍

[@y5mgisi]

@@mr.ls-s860 thanks!

[@adrianrdgz6922]

Donde consigues ese bloque de fusibles

[@javierargumedo3]

did you save pin B-33 (tcc brake switch) if you does what is the purpose of this switch. just am doing same harness as you and i would like to know if i have to save it.

[@y5mgisi]

I didn't save it since I used a th400.

[@pmotorsports8276]

Not necessary with TH400 but. It also lowers engine rpm by 200 when parked/stopped so no harsh take off or creeping at light with tight converter

[@copuyo1]

Hi do you mind sharing what PIN number wire you used for the neutral park safety switch? Thanks.

[@gerardolopez5875]

Did u figured out?

[@copuyo1]

@@gerardolopez5875 nope im still stuck on that part of the swap!

[@gerardolopez5875]

@@copuyo1 @ switch its on? Or removed?

[@copuyo1]

@@gerardolopez5875 switch it’s on but connectors from wire harness were missing,that’s what I’m trying to figure out

[@gerardolopez5875]

@@copuyo1 @ good luck ,,, thats another story!!! Missing wires, etc

[@shootout2842]

What is done for the starter no relay needed?

[@y5mgisi]

Some vehicles need a starter relay, some don't. I'm this case I'm swapping a chevy square body. It uses a heavy gauge wire from the ignition switch to the starter so no relay needed.

[@Romi.Frentescu]

Where did you get that metal clip that jumps all pink wires?

[@y5mgisi]

It came with the fuse block.

[@codyboyd011]

nice video; do you have any experience with a gen4 computer? i have been to LT1swap and got through the pin-out process but i am having a really hard time knowing what gets plugged into the computer from the fuse block. Thanks

[@y5mgisi]

Hey there! No I'm sorry I still haven't done a gen4 swap.

[@codyboyd011]

@@y5mgisi thanks for the reply

[@jackperry9369]

Thanks sir

[@MsJhook]

Nice

[@hshshsysysy1266]

2015 5.0 or...

[@leonardomucherino8787]

Help to me

[@hshshsysysy1266]

5.0 or...

[@y5mgisi]

This is for 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 engines.

[@hshshsysysy1266]

5.0 or...