Start CNC Crafting With These Top 3 Projects For Shapeoko 5 Pro! | Brett's Laser Garage

Step into CNC routing with these top 3 beginner projects for the Shapeoko 5 Pro! Perfect for newcomers looking to get hands-on experience. Start your next project with the best tools in hand! Shop now and Get 10% off Monport lasers & accessories using CODE Brett10 at bit.ly/3VUoFXt.
Watch as we explore each project in detail, providing you with free files to try at home. Remember to like, subscribe, and check out the links below for more support. Happy crafting!
FreeFiles at Cutrocket.com
Tool/Accessory Tray: cutrocket.com/...
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This video is about Start CNC Crafting With These Top 3 Projects For Shapeoko 5 Pro. But It also covers the following topics:
DIY CNC Router Ideas
Starting With CNC Routing
Top 3 CNC Project Files Free
Video Title: Start CNC Crafting With These Top 3 Projects For Shapeoko 5 Pro! | Brett's Laser Garage
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[@dunlapg75]

Nice video for beginners. I like the explanations and demonstrations of some of the the elementary basics. So many other channels take for granted that CNC owners automatically know these really basic things… we (beginners) might actually be struggling a bit to learn these things that so many others take for granted. So 👍🏻👍🏻 for covering some of the basics. I learned some useful stuff!

[@LaserGarage]

You’re welcome and thanks for watching.

[@joegarza9623]

I got my Shapeoko XXL a few months ago and I love it . ive learned a lot on my own and using youtube. But now i happen to run into your video and really enjoyed it. So now i have subscribed to your channel. thank you for your wisdom. Wishing you the best in your business and everything you do

[@LaserGarage]

That’s awesome Joe. Thanks a lot for the support. I’ll keep trying!

[@joegarza9623]

I was trying to see how to put the tabs on the outside but it looks like they were already on the flag

[@LaserGarage]

The tabs are already included in the design file. But if you ever need to add them there is a tab button on the design tab of carbide create. Click that and you can add them anywhere you want and also adjust the size.

[@vtellez01]

This is a great start to using my new machine. 1. You are using a current version on Carbide Create. 2. You give really solid tips throughout your video. And 3. You offer the plans for free, which will allow me to get through the initial learning curve. I look forward to seeing additional videos from you.

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I really appreciate it. Good luck in your CNC journey.

[@mikesattler1537]

I like the way you are going through the soft ware for the machine and explaining as you go. Nice job

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you very much!

[@marktroendle]

Thank you so much for the CNC videos. Your explanations are always so easy to follow. Unlike mini out there.

[@LaserGarage]

You are welcome! I'm glad the videos have been helpful

[@fransiscoalvarezinski6293]

What a fantastic job you did here Brett. Thank you so much.

[@LaserGarage]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you

[@johnshipps441]

These are some great projects for us newbies to start out with. The only piece missing was how you finished, or treated, them after sanding. It looked like Danish oil on one, and a spray of some sort on the flag. Mind sharing what you used?

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you very much, I’m glad the video helped. I used spray shellac to finish the flag and Howard’s Feed-N-Wax wood condition for the valet tray.

[@thebobloblawshow8832]

Just got one. This has been very helpful.

[@LaserGarage]

Excellent! Thank you very much, have fun!

[@michaelmapu572]

What spray paint did you use on your stock? Also amazing video. Very detailed and to the point. Thank you

[@LaserGarage]

Than you very much. I think it was behr flat black if I remember correctly.

[@blueboy4511]

Thanks Brett for all the information on your video. That is very king and generous of you to provide the files for making these projects. I do not have a CNC router YET, but I am seriously considering purchasing one. It looks like the Shapeoko 5 is a good place to start. What would be your recommendations? Thanks.

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you very much. Choosing a CNC depends a lot on your budget and what you want to make. Short answer is you can’t go wrong with any of the Shapeokos. Remember to check you local FB marketplace or Craigslist for used deals. My first cnc was a Shapeoko pro xxl I bought used on Craigslist.

[@williamtruax3212]

Great beginner video. Your a pleasure to listen too you appear very confident which is assuring to a newbie. One question about the valet tray, could the tool paths for the V bit been done at once. It appeared to be an extra tool change. Mind this is coming from someone who is procrastinating about buy the machine, so I may not know what I’m talking about. Thanks again.

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you very much! Yes, I definitely the chamfer profile could have been added after the v carved initials but before the perimeter cutout. That would have saved a tool change. Good point, you know your stuff.

[@oldbroncoguy]

Really good content - Quick question (rookie here) - on your tool tray, for example, How do you create the vectors that are custom sized / shaped for your particular tool?

[@LaserGarage]

Thanks a lot. I just measured the particular tools with calipers and created shapes for them in carbide create.

[@Scott60077]

Love the software review. My first machine is on the way now and I am very excited to learn this new world. I don't see a SAVE button on this video though? Thanks!

[@LaserGarage]

Thanks a bunch Scott, that’s exciting! I’m working on a couple other carbide create videos for the future. Just thinking about the areas I believe will be most useful for a new user. If you have any ideas or areas you’re having trouble with let me know please.

[@JeffreyRitchie-os9ni]

Just got my Shapeoko 4 XXL and haven't cut anything yet this video was a great help. Have a couple questions one How far do I put the bit in the router and also what speed do I put the router on that came with my machine? If you can help that would be great.

[@LaserGarage]

Awesome thanks a lot. Just like a regular router you want the bits to be installed as far as they can without bottoming out. If you’re running a makita or C3d router I usually had it on dial setting 3 which is about 17000 rpm. Depends on other factors like what end mill/v-bit, plunge speed, depth of cut…stuff like that. But generally for what I did in the beginning I had it set in 3.

[@JeffreyRitchie-os9ni]

@@LaserGarage Thank You, and do I go to your website to download the files in the video?

[@LaserGarage]

The files are located on cutrocket.com. Link is in the video description. Good luck and have fun!

[@DanSzostek]

Awesome video, thanks! I am awaiting the arrival of my Pro XXL. One mystery to me so far has been the actual user interface to the machine. I see you have a tablet there and a wireless keypad of sorts. Is that something that comes with the machine? Something you added yourself? Something I will NEED to buy to operate the machine? Any light you can shed on that would be awesome...Thanks, Dan

[@LaserGarage]

Thanks a lot! The cnc connects with a computer or laptop typically. The tablet I’m using is just a pc tablet, it does not come with the machine but I find it easiest to use to run carbide motion. Check out my Shapeoko 5 pro review video, I show this in more detail.

[@akashsinha4155]

What starter bits you recommend for someone who is starting?

[@LaserGarage]

I only recommend getting 3 to start off. 1/4” upcut endmill, 1/8” upcut endmill, and 90 degree v-bit. Those will get you through a ton of starter projects and add to the list as you need tools on a project by project basis. Don’t waste your money on the starter sets sold by a lot of manufacturers. You’ll end up not using half of them. Ask me how I know…😂

[@vtellez01]

When you set the depth of the Vcarve you set it for the bottom of the material. Aren’t you afraid that the cut will go through the bottom of the board.

[@LaserGarage]

I can see why you’d think that, I was in the same boat. Basically the max depth is irrelevant when carving in CC. The actual depth of the cut will be derived from the angle of your vbit and the spacing between the lines in the vectors you are selecting.

[@protect.your.digits.creations]

Brett your videos are better than Carbide 3 D

[@LaserGarage]

I don't know about that but thank you!

[@justinrichardson5492]

Thanks for the video. Just ordered my S4 XXL. Will these files work with that model also?

[@LaserGarage]

You’re welcome. Thank you for watching. Yep, the files will work great with your S4 XXL. Congrats on the new machine, have fun!

[@slyman6776]

Hey Brett ok I got the drawer tray done and it's GREAT! Now I'm working on the flag. One problem I'm having it the lettering isn't deep enough. The letters are barley readable. How can I fix this? Thanks in advance David

[@slyman6776]

Hey man I figured it out. Thanks again for the files and the help of getting started. David

[@LaserGarage]

Awesome great work. Always make sure your z height is set correctly, I’ve messed that up a million times.

[@slyman6776]

Hey Brett I got the Shapeoko 5pro like you suggested and how do you I got this cut file and I'm wondering how do you make it cut the wood out I got the 4 x 4 so I got a whole sheet of 4x4 mdf and I was wanting to cut the wood for the 19.5 x 26 how to setup in carbide create?Thanks in advance David

[@LaserGarage]

Hi there. I would first start off with the training videos offered by Carbide3d on there website. Tons of good beginner stuff on there. Have fun with your new machine.

[@johnterdik4707]

Great video! I noticed you got the 2x4 rather than the 4x4, any regrets? I'm considering the 4x4.

[@LaserGarage]

Thanks a lot! I love the 2x4 and have never regretted it. If I had the room I’d go with the 4x4 but I’m limited on space.

[@jetsDad77]

Hey man, I enjoy your videos. I ordered a shapeoke 4 standard, I'm still waiting to receive it. It's definitely a small machine but the first thing I want to make is a memorial flag for my mom. She passed away a week ago. I do believe my work space is only 16×16 so I was wondering if you have any tips or ideas for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It would mean alot. Thank you.

[@LaserGarage]

So sorry for your loss. You could always scale down the flag file I posted to fit on your machine. Customize it to make it your own. Also research “cnc tiling” on KZbin. Tiling is the process of modifying your work holding basically so you can fit larger projects on a smaller cnc.

[@jetsDad77]

@@LaserGarage thank you, I appreciate it.

[@jetsDad77]

@@LaserGarage where do I find that file?

[@spencershropshire6895]

This was the first project that I did with my shapeko. My struggle is with the text, it doesn't seem to go deep enough. Any thoughts as to why it barely going into the material? I am using the 60 degree jenny groovee bit.

[@LaserGarage]

Awesome! Couple things come to mind. Make sure your material thickness is set accurately in the job setup and double check your zero is set accurately. Also, job is setup for a 90 degree v bit, did you change that info over to a 60 degree in carbide create?

[@spencershropshire6895]

@@LaserGarage I did change that to a 60 degree and the thickness was entered. I did find another issue with the collet, I am planning on trying another run. On another note, do you have a Rii and tablet hooked up to your machine? Wondering what/how you have that set up?

[@LaserGarage]

@spencershropshire6895 cool, good luck. Yeah I have the Rii wireless keyboard and a cheap windows tablet connected to my Shapeoko. I really like the setup. I talk about it in more detail in my review video.

[@BShedd]

Where do you get your material?

[@LaserGarage]

Mostly from a couple local lumber yards that I have around. Austin Hardwoods in Santa Ana and Reel Lumber Service in Anaheim.

[@tomvolungus1511]

Can these be done on a Shapiro 3xxl?

[@LaserGarage]

Yup sure can!

[@joelrob8606]

Merci.

[@LaserGarage]

You’re welcome!

[@AcrylicMemories]

thank you for this video You just helped me decide on the shapeoko 5 pro over the onefinity Subbed, Regards, Rick

[@LaserGarage]

Awesome thanks Rick! Welcome!

[@dalebacino]

Great video but I'm having trouble with the link to your files.

[@LaserGarage]

Thanks a lot. It looks like Cut Rocket is just down at the moment. They should be back up soon.

[@davidk.3133]

I like this video alot. I'm using VCarve but I downloaded Carbide Create to try the projects. Thanks!

[@LaserGarage]

Awesome thanks a lot. Give it a shot, CC is really easy to use and best of all it's free.

[@rehabmax]

That is very helpful. I have been thinking of the Shapeoko for a few years. Understanding tool paths, order of steps, depth of drilling, tabs. Gives me me more confidence that I might not ruin the machine.

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you very much. Just dive in and don’t be afraid to make mistakes.

[@ErichWalters-x3x]

Good video I’m looking into CNC machine. Lots to learn.

[@LaserGarage]

Definitely! Thanks for watching

[@marknichols7861]

Awesome video… Is “Indivisible” missing a letter?

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you and yes, I forgot an i. I’ll fix the file. Good catch.

[@fcschoenthal]

Nice beginner projects and great instructions. - Chris

[@LaserGarage]

Thanks a lot!

[@BeardnScars]

You’re doing Gods work here bro.

[@LaserGarage]

😂 I don’t know about that but thank you

[@chuckmaloney429]

I am a newbie and I like your videos, I was confused with the V-Bit and the bottom of the stock (.67) when I initially watched, then I went through and read the comments and it makes sense but in theory if you did use the CC “bottom of the stock” preset wouldn’t a V-Bit try to go to the bottom of said stock?? Thanks!

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you very much! V bits are definitely a little confusing but what it really comes down to in CC is what particular tool path you’re using. If you press bottom of stock with a contour tool lath then yes, a v bit will go all the way down to the bottom. If you have v carve tool lath selected it will not as I demonstrated with my star example. There’s lots of discussion around this on the C3D forum with people that are a lot smarter than me and can explain it a lot better than me. I encourage you to check that out if you’re interested. Thanks again for watching.

[@starhawke380]

Im hoping to try to replicate one of these, unfortunately I cant install Carbide Create, and I only have a generic 3018 cnc. Good info though. Im still not 100% sure how Vcarve works...

[@LaserGarage]

You can still design your projects in carbide create even if you down own a Shapeoko. I think you’ll need to pro version though to export the gcode to your post processing program

[@ironsandhammers359]

Yea def nemuber 3, one kid made 500k in 2 years in large part by making custom valet trays and stands on his CNC. Great advice and excellent video

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you very much. Lots of opportunity out there that’s for sure

[@tommelinn4268]

Great video! Im watching all I can before my machine arrives. Thank you!

[@LaserGarage]

Thank you very much. Congrats on the new machine!

[@jmarquette62]

Excellent job. Just what I needed to see. Any tips on a bench for the machine?

[@LaserGarage]

Thanks a lot! Check out my review video and I go over my bench setup. I still love it.

[@DormantIdeasNIQ]

on the last job, how is the BJ not going thru the stock since you told it to go to stock bottom?

[@LaserGarage]

I can see why you’d think that, I was in the same boat. Basically the max depth is irrelevant when carving in CC. The actual depth of the cut will be derived from the angle of your vbit and the spacing between the lines in the vectors you are selecting. There's some videos that explain if you you're interested in searching on YT. Thanks for watching and the comment.

[@DormantIdeasNIQ]

​@@LaserGarage thank you... [ combining all my posts and all your answers, in one answer here ] ...that shows me why I am struggling with the CC and CM products, much of the behavior is blackboxed in their code, trying to help the math-void crowds while confusing the reality of calculations in the mind of those who see geometry correctly. I can add this, I have quickly learned that the router Z-placement in the collar is crucial, and that most of the time CNCers are just getting lucky and do not know why!? Also the reference for the bit-reach(max depth, 0 depth/height), I always set as bottom of the stock, too easy to make a mistake and end up in a nasty bit crash... but not named that in their settings dialog!!! all a confusion of nomenclature that must be translated in the mind to correct the coarse thinking. ...and CM is a mediocre misleading software that is blackboxed to ignore the retract parameter when it is part of the equation. For instance, their rapid motion to take the bit a certain distance over x,0,y0 is a guaranteed crash into the stock and destruction of the landscape that is quickly converted into fire wood, if not a ruined or broken bit. I know nothing about CNC, yet I see all this faulty sht. The world is flat out ignorant. I am quickly cramming Alibre Exert, MeshCAM, and CNCjs to forget the Carbide3D crappy software... I just do not want to continue to be surprised the hard way, by their idiotic invisible internal math and having to make mental notes to compensate in all my calculations to get around the non-sense.

[@DormantIdeasNIQ]

@@LaserGarage hmmm I'd better clarify this here where it is said... to be accurate, when you say 'when carving' you mean ONLY the toolpath type VCarve... because the other types DO respect the max-depth, and must or it would be a complete nightmare! ...and a separate point, the stock should never be referred as the 'material', though generically not incorrect, it requires translation, therefore confusing to the noob! ...stock=size, thickness, shape, the piece OF what 'material' one might be using.

[@DormantIdeasNIQ]

I wanna know how on the FLAG project, the bit cut all the way thru a 3/4in stock piece, using .67 max-depth??? ...and why written instructions are a mile better than videos loaded with inconsistent nomenclature that creates confusion, like the stock is also called material, yet they are given different thicknesses in the video(3/4, .67)! The software itself has a load-material button that is used to get the gantry out of the way to load the stock piece(material)! As you can see .67 is the max-depth to carve into a 3/4 stock piece NOT the material's thickness![take note: the title of the section in job setup IS: Stock thickness!] and why it must be typed manually in the max-depth parameter!!! [cannot use the stock bottom trigger, below the parameter box] ...and this is not the only video with these sorts of issues... one can waste massive time watching videos looking for an answer never addressed. Surely, one always learns from a video, but one must waste massive time to watch tons of them to gather a personal list of answers sought, as if you had 2 years to book educate yourself, so you can go to work now for a simple job! People, if you were to make a plan on paper/computer... and follow that accurately when you do your spill, you could first layout up-front in the video what will be covered... so, your list should be a parameter by parameter full explanation that translates into a set of job steps... Yes, it is better to have something rather than nothing, but this off the cuff crap is mediocre, time wasting. ooops! not in video, I am wasting my time here! I have work to do, and without the answer, I am at a stand still.

[@LaserGarage]

I answered your Vcarve question in your other comment. Basically CC does not take the depth of cut into consideration when using the Vcarve tool path. The DOC is determined by the angle of the bit. For example, a 60 degree v bit will carve deeper than a 90 degree v bit given the same vector lines. Like stars for example. Not sure if other programs are like this but this is how it works in CC. Not sure what your confusion is regarding the stock thickness. My personal material thickness was .67 inches as measured with calipers. In my CC free file, I list the flag material thickness at .75 because that is commonly the thickness of "3/4" MDF you buy at the store. I think I mention in the video the importance of accurately measuring your own personal material and modifying the cut setting/parameters accordingly.

[@DormantIdeasNIQ]

@@LaserGarage see my answer in the other posts