Stator replacement on Yamaha snowmobile 4 stroke Genesis VK professional.

[@BetterAircraftFabric]

Great Video !!! Very Much appreciated. I have 3 of these machines at a remote homestead in Alaska and one of them seems to have exactly this problem. - One of them runs and works great as long as the battery is charged and it used to charge it at 14.3 Volt at idle, but that is no longer happening... Best Regards, Lars

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

It's not that bad a job. Good luck

[@threewheelerdonuts8284]

Dude, thank you so much for making this video!! I have a Yamaha RS. Vector that's not charging and I'm glad you made this because now I can see what I need to check and what I need to do to fix it!

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

Glad it helped. It's not too bad a job when you know what has to be done.

[@666dynomax]

Thanks so much for your help again. I couldn't find a used one and oem new was 564 cad. I went with rm stator for 269 and oem gasket for 15. $330 taxes in shipped should be here Friday. I'm going to hope to not take radiator off but if I have to its probably not the end of the world. I can pull the battery box and ecu brackets off easily to give more room left of the oil tank. Here's my test results. Actually the stator part number cross reference to your sled. Static test 1-2 0.6 1-3 0.6 2-3 0.6 Pins to ground.6 ohm Startup Batt 13.1v DC new one week ago and just of charge Stator readings : 2-3 1.5v ac 1-3 36.5 1-2 36.7 At 2600rpm 2-3 1.4 v ac 1-3 44.1 v ac 1-2 45.2 v ac 13.1 before start 12.14 running and dropping Warm idle 2-3 1.4 v ac 1-3 27 1-2 27 Batt 11.9 dropping

[@666dynomax]

The little sensor tested good also the two wire. Trested at 188ohm. Spec was 185+ - 20%. Might keep this oem sensor and stator

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

No problem. Hope it goes smoothly

[@666dynomax]

​@@ontariooutdoorsman got her done. Unfortunately the water pump bolts through the cover. I ended up using the right stuff gasket maker on the cover. The water pump has it's own two bolts and three others it shares with the cover. The bad thing about that is when they pump comes off although it has it's own bolts it still has since flex. It's an oring that sits in a flange. So ran great charged great no leaks on first run. Next day she leaked her rad fluid. The crusty inside of the pump and little bits of sediment around the gasket probably were allowed to loosen up enough to make the gasket not seal well. Long stylery short stator cover stayed in place by it but stripped down again and sealed pump with gasket maker and reassembled. 200 miles later all good. Thanks again

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

@@666dynomax interesting. My engine doesnt have anything bolting on to the cover. No water pump. Mine is a 973cc genesis. Glad it all worked out. !

[@666dynomax]

watching your video yet again, did you use any lock tite inside the cover bolting the stator in? also, how do you actually line up that gasket when reinstalling cover?

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

I did put some blue loctite on the bolts holding the stator. I cleaned the gasket surfaces then used a bit of sealant/gasket maker to hold the gasket to the engine. Still had to slide it around a bit and got one bolt on each side to hold gasket

[@666dynomax]

Old two stroke guys say you have to be careful to mark the stator and put it back in the same as it affects timing, did you have to do anything like that, and where did you purchase your new stator from? I'm kind of in a time crunch for march break, I may take a chance and order a stator without even measuring voltage at battery running/idle/high idle, or from the 3 phases on the plug... I can't immagine there is much more it could be. my phazer has 6200km on it.

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

So the old type stators sometimes were 2 piece. One for ignition and one for lighting etc. Those sometimes allowed adjustment. These newer round full stators cannot be adjusted. Bolt in with no adjustment. CPS also has no adjustment. Old ones you had to use a feller guage and set

[@pompier372]

Hi Jim, how did you manage to pull the cover, i have the same sled and cannot figure a way to pull on cover and clear the aluminium chassis, it the cover is bigger that open area and the direction rod (even with loosing it) cannot give way enough to slide the cover....what's the trick ?

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

So not sure what rod you are talking about. I found I had to remove the right side first and wiggle to get it out. Had to drain coolant and disconnect that hose

[@oldjarhead386]

I also had this problem. The pulling of the magnet while trying to put the cover back on with no clearance made getting a good seal on the gasket almost impossible. And it didn't want to come out. The sled I was working on already had notches cut for the cover. But it still wouldn't come out easily. In order to insure I had a good seal around the gasket it loosened up the engine mount and used a small pry bar to move the engine slightly to buy clearance. The engine easily falls back in place with not much effort.

[@greatmoose17]

Excellent video Jim. Thank you for the detail on the VK Pro. What year is your sled and how many miles? I’m hoping I won’t have to do this ever to mine, but if I do this is the perfect teaching tool!

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated. Please like the video too..it really helps making it findable for others. Glad you find them useful

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

My sled is a 2010 vk pro with about 7000 miles on it npw

[@666dynomax]

although i've bought lots of OEM parts, the chinese one on ebay for $54 with gasket is temping. I see what looks like a rectifier or something that comes with it (small metal two bolts holding it on, two wires white/black coming out of it) is that part of the stator you bought?

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

Yes the one I bought was from royal distributing in canada. Made by wolftech. The stator is fine...but the small part with 2 screws (crank position sensor) did not work for me and was not compatible. May have been a bad sensor or there is a difference. I had to tear sled apart a second time and put back in the original CPS. I soldered and spliced with heat shrink. The wolftech stator assembly...for my install on my vk pro...CPS did not work.

[@666dynomax]

@@ontariooutdoorsman ahh. Ok good to know. I'll price the OEM but I suspect it will be 500 Canadian vs 150-200 aftermarket. On the phazer there is a radiator to deal with I'll likely have to remove but your video looks very close. The cover looks similar and the stator bolts to the cover like your vk. Looks like a hard fit out through that hole!! Are those a 700cc?

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

@@666dynomax my vk is a 1000 cc. Again..the stator itself was fine. Just the CPS wouldnt work. Machine would not start. Its alot of work to do twice so just keep that in mind Stator and cps was only 129 at royal. But...I had to do it twice and swap the cps 2nd time. Maybe I just got a bad one

[@666dynomax]

@@ontariooutdoorsman Im not hearing great reviews of the RMStator ones either. In the dirt bike world RMStator are accepted equivalent or better than OEM... so i found that odd, they are $269 Canadian. All reviews of the cheap ebay ones are they lasted only a short time or were defective from the beginning. I Think you are correct, better to buy proper parts. I'll look at that CPS as well. Thanks again, all helpful information.

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

@@666dynomax ya it's a tough call. I'm curious if the oem stator comes with the CPS or its separate.. the reason they come as a pair is because the grommet all the wires go thru is molded with the wires inside it. I had to carefully slit the grommet in 2 places to swap the CPS from one to the other..and then I used sealant to seal up. Good luck hope it works out. It's easy to .ensure the ac output on the white plug in from your regulator. With engine running measure from ground to each terminal. I had 2 of 3 outputs extremely low. Again.. good luck

[@666dynomax]

well looks like i'll be doing this on my 07 phazer. didn't have a meter at the camp, so i'm going to go back up and check the 3 white wires like you said. theres a static test (using ohms) and the live test with engine running like you have said, so that uses AC Voltage... good to know. I was lucky to have two other sleds with similar voltage regulators so i swapped one in with no change.... What i'm getting is no charging, after running 30-40 minutes the battery just keeps dying... brand new battery full charge lasts 30-45 minutes. I hope mine is as easy on the 500 phazer as it is on your VK. I do have a rad to remove as well, but the oil tank looks identical to yours. Was the stator hard to pull off? I hear it is hard to remove due to the magnets was this true for you?

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

So the stator being attacched to the inside of the cover does have a significant magnetic pull holding the cover in place. When you start pulling the cover you will feel like a spring pulling it back in. That's the magnet. It comes off fine but you have to finesse the cover out of the opening on the side. But it does fit.

[@Aninga32]

Do i have to drain the oil to change the stator? 2009 fx nytro

[@ontariooutdoorsman]

If it's a genesis 4 stroke it will be like shown in my video. The stator is submerged in oil if as shown

[@Aninga32]

@@ontariooutdoorsman I've just tipped it on the side and changed the stator. Still no power.