Stay at Home Special: A Look at PL-259 and SO-239 Connectors (

[@teashea1]

very articulate and efficient presentation. I like how you say things once and do not keep repeating yourself.

[@cuban9splat]

I am old school about coax connectors and have wanted to see the crimp type up close for a while now. Thank you! Also, a little trivia, the 'SO" part of SO-239 is often called the "SOcket" and the PL part of PL-259 is called the "PLug". Just something my old elmer from 1959 told me LOL. Easy way to remember it anyway. Good job, Dave. Thanks for sharing this with us. 73 de K7RMJ Frank . .

[@rickvia8435]

In 1973 I was 13 YO. Old-school CB was the thing. I was the youngest op in the area and had a 4-ch. Lafeyette tube radio and learned quick how to solder these boogers onto RG-8/ RG-58 with a 140W Weller gun. I was pretty popular getting these onto operators' coax in the local area. They're as good these days on all the amateur bands that I work (from 180M to 70cm). Good instructional here, Dave.

[@racing8872]

Great Video takes me back to my High School days in Electronics Shop class

[@graywolf1911]

Thank you Dave, very nice overview. It might be nice to demonstrate using smaller coax INSIDE the shack . LMR400 is sort of like the tail lifting the dog. What do people use that is more flexible within the shack to interconnect between the antenna switch and the transceivers and other auxiliary equipment. Also, the use of the Antenna switches within the shack to either connect multiple radios or, multiple antennas coming into the shack, what if you have BOTH conditions, multiple coax cables from antennas, and multiple radios ? How to best use the antenna switches for multiple setups.

[@margaqrt]

The much venerated, time tested "UHF connector." Aptly named because when they were invented, near WWII, frequencies above 30mHz were considered ultra high. Insertion loss is of course higher with increasing frequency. But agreed, for HF and VHF these have proven to be fantastic connectors.

[@gary6212]

Cleared up my confusion about the UHF name.

[@ny1t]

Times Microwave water proof (at 12:40)... As someone that lives on a boat, I recognize the design of the connector is to prevent water getting into the coax. It is easier to replace the connector if it gets submerged in salt water, but you wouldn't want to replace 70 feet of coax in a mast if you can prevent it. Water intrusion in the first couple feet may mean it can't be shortened enough. Notice waterproof heat-shrink wire-ends do not have the wire exposed this allows the connector to be replaced when corrosion from exposed to salt water without the need to replace the whole wire. Notice the normal crimp wire ends have wire exposed where the waterproof wire-ends do not. After you have had a flood and you can bend 2/0 wire and hear the strands crackle you realize the importance of protecting against this intrusion. You want to replace the connector before damage is done to the wire. This doesn't mean the heat-shrink is enough to be waterproof. Some heat-shrink has adhesive to add to the sealing just as the waterproof heat-shrink wire-ends do.

[@Dngfjnvmdfhg]

Thank you Dave, this was the exact video I needed. I am in the process of acquiring materials for my first HF antenna, a 40m dipole. Thank you for clearing up some of my confusion. KE0VPG

[@ryanv7075]

Jack Dougherty same

[@kevinshannon9917]

same

[@jeoinaforest]

Same here! Very helpful video, thank you!

[@itperdition]

I would call these HF connectors. I would always use N connectors on VHF/UHF mated to some thick low loss cable.

[@watthairston1483]

These were also used on remote pick-up equipment that operated in the high-band VHF and also 450 mhz. A common practice was to replace them with type "N"; however, it was discovered that they worked just fine if the high quality Amphenol silver-plated ones were used. The cheap chrome plated ones found at various parts bulk dealers were awful and served as very good impedance bump and loss "lumps". The larger issue was using the RG-8 foam over a few feet. The cheap buck-two-nightyeight ones aren't even very good at HF for that matter. Chinese curse might be good term these days. LOL! Many thanks for another great video, you're an asset to the hobby and doing a great job. 73' de K4WRF

[@billseward2274]

Good stuff, Dave. I usually buy may cables pre-terminated, but at some point I’ll have to start making my own for custom lengths, and this helps the thought process.

[@jamesluck2969]

Hay intresting thing SO239 connectors are often used on geiger counters from 1920s to 1950s with external detectors as the detector wire connector. Pain to find one rated for high enough voltage now, if one needs to replace the connector on old gear, but at the time it worked great until the manufacturers found new connector types.

[@bobwendoloski6970]

Learning how to solder on a PL-259 is a great skill to have when you are a Ham! Ranks right up there with being able to change your own oil and changing a flat tire on the car. I must admit I do purchase coax with PL-259 plugs already installed but I tend to cut them down to the size I need and install my own PL-259. I think the mistake people make with them (other than over thinking) is using a 35 watt iron to solder. Enjoy the videos always interesting and informative. 73's de WA3TVH

[@Billiemarie1000]

Not the greatest for VHF and UHF but they are easy to install. A PL259 works far better than an improperly attached, and much more complicated N Connector. Thanks David for your wonderful videos. I shared your links in the IC-7300 Facebook group.

[@kevinb3048]

How about showing how you waterproof the connection to a dipole and what you do for strain relief? Thanks Dave!

[@donaldsmith3048]

I have found it makes it easier to solder the shield if the hole has the plating is remover. The solder seems to work better to the brass.

[@davecasler]

Another way that can help is to add some flux. You can pick up rosin flux at Home Depot. Make sure you do not by the acid flux, but the so-called electrical flux. A single little jar of flux should last you a lifetime as it takes very little for each job.

[@emmanuelmagang6918]

Thank you

[@DonzLockz]

Great explanation David, very helpful info. Much appreciated.👍🤓

[@larryjanson4011]

why aren't these pl-259 made water tight? love your videos, i am trying to learn. you are helping a lot there.

[@karlmadsen3179]

What about the use of a little silicone dielectric grease inside the SO-239 to avoid the losses and improve conductivity/connectivity? Does it just not work for this application? It can be used for other electrical connections in high voltage applications (like 124 VAC).

[@hammathguy3995]

Hi Dave. Probably just a misstatement, but you do not screw the shield into the threads at the rear of the PL-259. You do screw in the jacket. A nice tight connection there becomes the strain relief for the connector. Other than that, a very informative vid.

[@stevec5000]

A problem I've been running into lately is that some SO-239 connectors from China come with metric threads! They look the same so it's impossible to tell the difference by looking but when you try to screw on a cable it will just go on about 1 1/2 turns then jam. The problem is easy to fix by running a die of the proper size over the threads though.

[@stephenholtapp5946]

Wish there is a link to the connectors

[@mnoxman]

At frequencies below 250Mhz UHF connectors are fine if you use a quality connector (from Amp). I remember installing mini-uhf connectors on the AMPS mobile phones. Those were pretty good and not so painful to field install. FWIW: I remember the 'clamp' version of BNC connectors were a pain but I see now that Belden makes as 50ohm compression connector version (not unlike the F compression fittings). I am sure that N connectors only came in the clamp style. Both BNC and N clamp connectors were a joy (note sarcasm) to field install. For ease of installations I would use the Belden BNC compression connector because the tools can be had at a big box home store inexpensively and it is very easy to install. No soldering and good to +2Ghz. But that is me. YMMV.

[@johngratton7704]

Hello Dave, The reason some people poo-poo these connectors is because they ARE POO-POO! Even though they are not constant impedance connectors they are OK for HF but I won't use them above about 50 MHZ. No sense in flaming me, it won't change my mind. I have even changed out SO-239's and replaced them with N connectors on some of my radios and equipment. Personally I think that all hams should know how to assemble the PL-259 but I am also one of the guys that had to sweat bullets to learn and pass the 20 WPM code test to get my extra ham license. So this tells you that I am an old geezer and set in my ways. That being said, I have been using crimp connectors for a few years now and I really like that new Times connector that you showed. I only wish that the shell backed off so that you could seat it first. Personally, I like the crimp-on connectors that have a solder type center pin. Thanks again for your videos and everyone please be safe, John WR0J

[@3v068]

I have this on an old realistic cb phone 40. Can I solder a typical coax cable end to an PL-259 and then connect an antenna to the other end for my CB radio? Or should I just order a specific coax cable for it?

[@fredrichhayek5994]

Very helpful basic info for most hams but especially new hams. As you have the time video "shorts" on more basic topics will be a great service. In this vein - a couple of questions or ideas for follow-on videos. How does one select a specific brand PL-259 (are their any real differences)? The product claims and prices vary widely - for example, the Times Microwave is very $, especially with the crimp kit. I've been told that one may need to match the PL-259 to the coax brand, not just the size designation. True? Maybe a more comprehensive presentation of the different converters e.g. SMA to Pl-259 for example (I use to connect my HT to a J-Pole). Easy solutions to common issues especially for new hams who may not yet be aware of such options. KG6RSZ

[@francismcclaughry3794]

I have a tool box of the 259 connecter. they have a little circle in the middle and can't be connected. I just wonder why it was never used.?

[@glaura1581]

Thanks for a wonderful detailed video, certainly it is helpful for me. In addition, As UHF, although the connection speed is faster than mini UHF, sales is not as follows. and i think elecbee connectors from CHIna can be believable. you can also choose IC products in there.

[@johnforte3466]

Dave, you don't need to toot your own horn. You're excellent.

[@cossiedriverrs]

PL259/SO239 non constant impedance, fine for the actual antenna connection, and the back of the radio, even on 70cms (as what is inside the radio has been designed to produce a match for the co-ax, and compensates for non-co-axial connections and non-constant impedance plugs). N types otherwise for me, and used outside, they are waterproof, so better for any band. NEVER use a PL259/SO239 to join two lengths of co-ax above 30Mhz. The other issue is the impedance mismatch as a result of cheap manufacturers substituting other insulating materials for PTFE, and this can happen on any kind of plug. Different materials need different plug dimensions, as you highlighted, but you can bet that is not taken into account in a Chinese factory... PL259s are bad news to solder anyhow. Best connector I ever fitted onto co-ax was an N type, onto LDF 5-50. All you need is a hacksaw... 73 de G4EGH

[@joecraft4409]

When making my own cables and crimp fittings, I use heat shrink when done to help hold the cable to the connector like the comercial coax supplier do. Good video Mr. Casler. Thank you sir. 👍

[@rossw9764]

See any problems using BNC connectors for portable operation?

[@davecasler]

No, go ahead. Many QPR items come with BNC connectors. I personally don't like them, so I have a bunch of BNC male to S0-239 female adapters.

[@humaxf1]

Not a bad idea to go over the basics again, especially for newer operators. It always cracks me up when 'extra' class operators (who should know better) refer to SO239 as PL259 in videos - c'mon guys, get it right!

[@vu2kocomprakash328]

Informative

[@jdecar1]

What's the db loss at UHF (≈440mhz)? You started to say, corrected yourself but didn't give the real number. I'm curious because I'm in the process of building the 2m/70cm part of my base. Thanks for all your videos!

[@arbitraryuser]

Great video Dave. I've often thought that the best way to explain how much "better' an n-connector would be over the pl/so connector is to work out how many more watts you'd get out of them. Ie if you swapped out the UHF connectors on your 100 watt Icom, how many watts do you gain at the feed point? I'm going to guess the answer is less than 1 extra watt, but perhaps you're able to do the maths.

[@JosephVE3GKT]

Just the video I needed! Thanks Dave! 73 de VE3GKT

[@TonyYarusso]

So what I don’t get is if these aren’t all that well suited to VHF and UHF, why is it that 2m/70cm dual-band radios come with them instead of something more appropriate?

[@davecasler]

Habit. Pure habit. So- called UHF connectors were designed back when "UHF" was anything higher than HF. Yes, N- connectors are more suited, and in Europe HF and UHF/VHF radios are sold with N connectors. However, the additional loss of the UHF connector is negligible.

[@forgetyourlife]

where do you buy the Times connectors without using their horribly confusing website?

[@davecasler]

You might try DXEngineering.com. Times Microwave is a manufacturer, so they rely on distributors for most sales.

[@ronwatkins5775]

Do you have any suggestions for how to pass a cable through the wall? Im thinking of some kind of SO-239 wall plate for going between outside and inside? Any sources for where to get something like this?

[@Clintwoodz]

I've seen people use Junction boxes

[@jaysonscaccia3188]

There is an antenna made with the so 239 with 4 lengths of wire soldiered to the 4 holes on the housing. Now I have been out of radio for some time, I'm just getting back into it, but for the life of me I cannot remember the name of that simple build. Does anyone know what that is. KD2MNE

[@andykeddie7602]

Quater wave groundplane antenna Jayson, usually for 2m or 70cm. 73, M0KED, Lincoln, U.K.

[@jaysonscaccia3188]

@@andykeddie7602 that's it thanks man. Been awhile lol 73's

[@bobwendoloski6970]

@@jaysonscaccia3188 I just made one of those for 2 meters so I could get back on the air locally. Forgot how darn simple an antenna could be. I used scrap bailing wire from work, 5 wire nuts for the ends and a recycled SO-239 and scrap 1" PVC pipe. Even the coax was scrap. Total cost was zero, the darn thing works great.

[@JimN5QL]

I don't trust and I can't afford crimping tools to do the crimped connections. I have been soldering connections since the 1970s so I guess I will keep doing it the same way! I would rather cut bulk coax to the length I need.

[@johnforte3466]

Most antennas sold today are multi band so the bulk coax lenght will not be critical. I wish they would sell cable with just one connector. Always end up cutting one off to feed the coax three the wall. Waste.

[@yaroslavmuradian5959]

👍

[@francismcclaughry3794]

I scrap the bottem of the barrel for these. Since or local shop closed. You can order them off amazon but they are expensive. and with this virus. there are going to put the show on hold.

[@buddyadelsberger5083]

that watt meter is a poor product. Works fine with 2m but lousy on hf

[@buddyadelsberger5083]

I plan learning how to do my own connectors

[@eddy2561]

HEy Dave, your dcasler.com/about/ doesn't work........k6sdw